I guess you could have swapped that cracked injector to the other bank to see if the fuel trim problem went with it, but that's a lot more labor and since it is visibly damaged, it's a good bet to change it. Even if it isn't causing the problem, it should still be replaced.
Not too nock eric the car guy but why is it that my man here, who goes in to the problems with equipment for explaining and showing the process of how to figure out what's going on. Is just 100+ thousand subscribers,when he makes things more interesting and more wanting to learn and watch what's the out come. Please folks show some love and support him,cause honestly watching him makes you learn more and gives you more motivation to try to fix your own car a hundred percent. Subscribe and like his videos cause at the end I would feel more confident to have him fix my car,after seeing how he deals with problems that cars come in with to fix
I assume you let all your friends know about this GREAT channel. Pass the word, encourage others to do the same. I came across it completely by accident. I think this one is the BEST. Knowledgeable, thorough, and TRUSTWORTHY.
Pretty definitive diag there, Eric! I am curious if the paddle probe would have shown a rich burn on cyl 7 and lean on the other three? Then with the truck running would be interesting to try an "injector balance test" meaning unplug one injector at a time and look at fuel trim changes. Oh and those OTC pulser adapter leads are a pain in the ass lol! Maybe rig up some leads together from the AES Wave kit. So far I have not found a scenario where they didn't work. Looking forward to Part 2!
Yep, It's like heater problems, it can't be the actuator that's right under the HVAC, it's got to be the one that requires you to strip the interior out to get to it.. I miss the old control cables....
Thanks for this video. Great diagnostic work. I always thought OTC tools looked like homemade tools, but there's really no excuse for the tester leads to not fit correctly. Good thing that injector is cracked on the visible side.
I used to love to wrench on engines when all you needed was a dwell meter and a timing light... The last vehicle I could use the timing light on was my 86 Mustang GT.. But, since "you can do it, I no longer have to!" ha, ha... :) I'll gladly pay for this kind of stuff now..
In my experience the injectors should flow all the same. I worked on a car last summer with misfires injectors were +or- 1 psi of each other. Put new injectors in and solved the problem. I did the same damn thing with my first injector tester after that I put a 2amp fuse on the wires for the injector side. Great video
as jump as the F/P gauge looked in first test, probably could've unhooked one at a time while running and look for the dancing gauge to stop. scope injection pulses to confirm they're fairly equal/not wiring issue
Could you have done this - get the engine to closed loop, disconnect the bad injector's wiring harness, see if the bank goes lean. If the bank goes from rich to lean, then you can be pretty sure the problem is isolated to that injector?
Yep the computer makes adjustments to correct the fuel trims from the bad injector & causes lean misfires on the good cylinders. Nice attack strategybut are you hiding more in Part II HAHA
Happy New Year Eric. Just wondering if the next time you visit the salvage yard you could snag a few different manufacturers Injector plugs and make your own adapters? Just thinking out loud.....
On the units I've made I do that to get the connectors, then trim off the locks and outer housing so that you only have the inner 2 pin plug. That inner plug will fit multiple injector versions once the outer keying is gone.
I'll bet that oil is ruined- if that injector is bleeding out when engine shuts off, too. You used that same injector control to diagnose that '89 C5 a while back. Good stuff. Get well, Gavin!
I think she's misfiring might be losing some compression out the holes in the fender LOL all the gadgets and the clipboard it's time for Rocket surgery good job buddy
Just for kicks I would like to have seen what a "normal" pressure drop is from a cylinder on the other bank. Presumably the same as the three on the bad side but.... Just another point of reference.
I was always told to do a fuel pressure test before a fuel injection test. I have found bad fuel pressure regulator can be a cause of skipping and bucking also. But i guess every case is different.
I would do the exact same test that you have performed in the video I would also scope those injectors on bank one all of them at the same time and watch them while they’re running and see if that cracked injector has a higher amp draw as it warming up
Good job as usual eric o.. Was trying to film changing a turbo n injectors on a ford mondeo today with my phone...this filming isnt as easy as you make it seem.
even harder is filming and keeping your head enough to talk properly about what your doing, not everyone can do it, including me. I'd be a bumbling idiot and have a hard enough time keeping focus just talking to someone else :))
Lol there the longest lasting running trucks on the road hardly ever any engine problems. Just everything else electrical. Nothing like there failing competitors should I dare say it. Ford, found on road dead. Fix or repair daily. F'ed-up over rebuilt dodge. GM stands for Guaranteed misery. And that is exactly what you will get. GMC stands for Gods mechanical curse. Gota mechanic coming. Thought I would throw that in there.
This is happening with my 2004 Dakota. Mine is a 6 cylinder. I don't understand most of what you're saying? It's starting to act up more frequently. It seemed to subside when I only kept it under a quarter tank, but that may have been a two-week coincidence because it's back at it. When I accelerate it acts like I'm running out of gas,usually after it's been running for a few minutes, and smells rich. It's a struggle to get up to 30 mph some days. I imagine people driving around me think I'm driving a stick but don't know how lol. You're explaining exactly what mine does with the codes and flashing light exedra. Can someone explain what's happening in lamens terms? The short story was an injector?
It shows how codes don't tell the whole truth, but the effect on other components. I hope a new injector is the fix. Have a happier and healthy 2018 :-D
Twitchy gauge tells the tale, I believe - one must be dumping more than the rest, and I think you've confirmed that with the test. WOAH, automotive poetry! That was terrible. My apologies ... :D I know there's always a twist in the automotive world, so I wouldn't be shocked if I was completely wrong on this. Love how stuff is built today. I had the same injectors in my '86 Grand Marquis for 29 years, 222K miles - all still good (replaced them because I broke the plastic pintle cover off of one). Guy who bought them on eBay tested them (guess he had a machine that could measure flow) - said only one of the 8 was 3% out of spec! Not bad. Curiously enough, our '93 Volvo 940 looks to have identical injectors to the Merc.. I'll leave well enough alone on that one. Patiently waiting for Part II .... ;)
Hi Eric, Happy New Year! Great video as always. Do you still have the adapters from your old injector tester? Perhaps you can make the old adapters work with your new tester?
I have the matco unit. Comes with 4mm banana style connections to the box. Combine that with the AES wave terminal kit and there’s nothing you can adapt to. Never had a problem with wires coming off.
Happy New Year. Question; since some of the computers decisions are made on comparisons of input data, would it be good to test the "good" bank injectors as a baseline for the "bad" or is the O2 and fuel trim data enough to work with? I understand you don't want to do unnecessary tests but I've been tripped up a few times, I'm an old diesel mechanic but I'm trying to catch up with technology. Hope thus question isn't a waste of time. Good video.
This video is very intriguing 🤔 definitely looks like that number 7 when it's failing its just dumping all the fuel it can and which makes sense would be causing the miss fire on the other 3 good cylinders Eric O @SouthMaimAutoRepairLLC
love the video's as always. incredible content you put out. Your video's have inspired me to film and upload vid's of me building a twin turbo 2004 mustang 4.6 4v combo. Just getting started but should be fun. Keep up the good work
Hey Eric, I'm not familiar with the scan tool you are using, but, I know most tools will toggle the fuel pump relay, as well as the ASD relay, which would save you the whole key toggling thing.. Just a thought..
I realize you probably don't do injector drop testes every day. But why not make up a few injector plugs that you can just push on the different injectors so you don't have to hold leads when testing. It would take some time to get the injector plugs and wire them to fit the pulse tester. But once you made the more frequently used types, you would save time and make such tests easier and quicker. Just a thought.
David Sawyer agreed. Eric send to give too much of a damn about the net noise. An unfortunate side effect of those that care is that they care too much about certain things. Eric's on point, and his openness about his methodology has helped me with my cars and more.
David Sawyer dude there were some REALLY weird ppl asking some really weird questions and saying some really weird things on new years Eve...I dunno if it was alcohol or what... but Its kinda concerning IMO
gremlin on.old ob1 dodge is the engine harness due to it location in engine bay subject to heat amd vibration..babied mine up to 528, 000 miles finally found another decent harness .narrowed it down finally after moving old one a bit and starting right up..noticed on.my other dodge newer basicslly engineeres did same thing..also dumb idea putting charcoal canister under truck hoses mush up 204 code
I had the injector wiring harness melt on my 3.8 T&C minivan and the injectors grounded and that left them open. Lots of gas vapor out the exhaust. I put silver insulating tape around the new harness when I replaced it. I bet the rear of the engine is the hottest place in the bay.
Would a valley pan gasket leak cause a random misfire? Plugs wires, cap, etc all changed , after a mile or so, truck runs fine, but a little sluggish, does not stall at stops, 2002 Dodge Dakota 3.9 l magnum
Eric O, would you not only want to double check the same cylinders, but also check the cylinders in the other bank to have a reference to go by , and compare them all ? Just wondering what a known good should be.
Hmm I have been dealing with p0300, p0301, p0303 and p0305 for over 3 months now. I'll have to check out that upstream O2 sensor sometime soon. Just afraid of destroying the threads..
Send me that blown up injector tester you mention in the video. Fixing oddball, proprietary, hard-to-find electronicable stuff is what I do. I've got things to fix stuff.
Very interesting find there sir. Cant recall on what, but i feel like i have seen injectors cracked like that before. I wonder why they do that, some kind of heat/ stress crack or something? It never looks like they got hit or anything. And i have never been diagnosing and come across that...only on a tear down or something and just happen to observe it. Let us know what happens.....
You may be thinking of the Jeep 4.0's, they were famous for this and even had a TSB and updated heat shield that went under them on the intake to help with the hot soak issue and stuff if I recall....
Good little vid with injector relative test . The otc tester was weak sauce, even dorman would of likely done better harness tails ! Shame you junked old one as could of grafted cable over .
It should be easy enough to make an injector tester with a project box and a few electronic parts. That would be a fun project, I wonder if any has done it....
spelunkerd Allsun makes a a nice OTC alternative which even has a continuous operation mode for cleaning etc. I liked mine enough to do a bit of a review on it. About $25 bucks or so ready to go!
Probably already said: But why's it always...ALWAYS the rear injector, plug, harness, etc... That's usually a PITA to work with!! Edit: Had a similar issue with my families Durango. Cracked injector. Shorted out the tiny firing coil inside the injector and that took out the PCM. Replaced PCM with a reman from a company in FL. (programmed with updates, etc...no need to flash at the stealership!) And a used injector for a couple of bucks from a local yard. It's been 100% fine now for 3+ years. Water dripped from the cowl area and ran onto the hot injector- cracked the plastic and then it just ate itself.
The difference in pressure decay doesn't seem to be that drastically different, certainly not a smoking gun or "there's your problem lady. I'd be curious what the other bank tested at.
title Quote " Dodge Dakota: intermittent skipping, bucking, poor running" I had the same thing happen to me and it turned out to be the two wire pigtail connecting to the coilpack on my number 1 cylinder. I changed the PCM and had dodge dealer charge me 300 buck to change the #1 pigtail on the both of those injectors. bought a new coil pack, finely figured it out to be the #1 coilpack two wire pig tail.
Had a 99 power wagon per paint bank 1 had one set of 4 injectors and bank 2 had a different set of injectors took 3 days to notice it the two different types of injectors that fired at different portions of fuel to the engine the higher on the right the lessor on the left after 2 weeks we finally worked it out with a matched set of 8
dont know if you know ebay has adapters to adapt that plug on your tester to any other injector. like i have a 1994 ram 1500 i installed a 2002 5.9 magnum motor as you know the plug on the injectors changed from 1994 to 2002 i ordered a whole set of adapters EV1 to EV6 may have that backwards but have been on the truck for 5 years still runs great. so you can order one at a time or a set. that is what i did for my injector tool that i have makes it so easy
After watching this video I wanted to see if you might be able to assist me with my own truck. I have a 98 Dakota with the 3.9 liter V6 and I'm having a lot of the same problems as the truck and video the only difference is I'm getting codes P 0300, 0301, 0351, and a 0132. I do already know that those three codes are misfires and the last code is my O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 running rich. I can only assume that the sensor is the problem that I have having because I cannot get it out which tells me it is probably been in there for 22 years. If you have any other advice it would be greatly appreciated.
99% of tech would say "I can't duplicate the issue" and give it back to the customer. Not Eric O. ! I would never have thought to use and injector pulser to test injector VOLUME, but by starting with a 𝐟𝐢𝐱𝐞𝐝 𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐯𝐨𝐥𝐮𝐦𝐞 (𝑤ℎ𝑎𝑡 𝑖𝑠 𝑖𝑛 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑠) and NO pump, that is exactly what you are doing by looking at pressure drop !!
I think if you could have swapped the #7 injector with say #3 injector to see if the psi was to drop in #3 and stay in range in #7. Like you could do in bad coil over plug diag.
Hi folks, both alive and dead like me. A bad coil code with 3 and or 7 cly is a misdiagnosis, the cause is likely to be the emmisions system. The can or fuel vapor canister can have split or collapsed vac hoses. Try to block them and it can create a bucking problem when floor and a shitty iratic idle. Shops and scanners used may not have the software to do a vacuum pressure test. So make sure the gastank vapor system supply lines are good and routed to the correct ports.
P0300 Random/Multiple cylinder misfire detected.possible causes Faulty or worn spark plugs , wires or coils Distributor failure Faulty fuel injector Vacuum leak Low fuel pressure Camshaft sensor defective Crankshaft sensor defective Engine timing off Leaking head gasket Low engine compression Poor quality fuel P0303 should not be ignored, and can be a threat to the drivability the Dodge Dakota. The nice thing about P0303 is that it's a cylinder specific trouble code, which makes diagnosing the problems simpler than P0300, which means that the cylinders are randomly misfiring. P0303 is a cylinder specific misfire code, which means that Cylinder 3 is misfiring and causing the code. An important thing to understand when finding the location of cylinder 3 is that it’s going to be the 3’rd cylinder in the firing order of the vehicle, and not the 3’rd cylinder that you might see when looking at the engine. Fixing P0303 should be considered a high priority. Unlike a lot of the OBDII codes, this code has to do directly with engine combustion. Driving with a misfire can damage the vehicle’s catalytic converter. The engine is also not firing all of the fuel, so raw fuel is also passing through cylinder 3 into the exhaust. Mileage may suffer as well when your Dakota has P0303.The P0303 trouble code will trigger the Dakota’s service engine soon light. The vehicle itself may begin to run rough. It depends on how serious the misfire is, and how many cylinders the engine has. The vehicle may produce excess vibration, especially at lower RPM. Fuel mileage will suffer (often not drastically). You may smell raw gas coming from the tailpipe. The vehicle may backfire. There are quite a few things that can cause the P0303 trouble code to trigger the Dodge Dakota . Here are the most common problems that will throw the code. They are presented somewhat in order from most to least likely to be causing the code: Bad Spark Plugs- Spark plugs are one of the most common causes of P0303. Take a look at the electrodes and see if they are in good shape. Most vehicles now come with iridium plugs that need changed very infrequently. That being said, the plugs are a great place to start. Here’s a great video on how to see if a spark plug is bad. Spark Plug Wires- On most modern engines, the plug wires are not nearly as long as they once were, but they can still go bad. Here’s how to tell if your plug wires are bad (video). Coil Packs- Coil packs rarely go bad, but when they do, they can certainly cause P0303 in your Dodge Dakota. Replacing a set can be very expensive. Here’s how to test them. Bad Fuel Injector- If you have a fuel injector that has gone bad, it won’t be able to properly atomize the fuel and you’ll get the P0303. Here’s a good video on how to diagnose an injector, it can be a little tricky. This is definitely not the place to start. Vacuum leak- If your Dakota has a vacuum leak, it can be very difficult for it to get the right air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to misfire and it’ll throw the P0303 if the leak is around that specific cylinder on the intake manifold. It’s easy (and kind of fun) to chase one down. Popular Mechanics: How to find a vacuum leak. Cam or Crank Sensors- This one is very unlikely, but it does happen. If the ECU is not getting the right signal from these sensors, the vehicles timing is not going to sync up and it’ll misfire. Low Compression- If you have a leaking head gasket, bent valve, cracked head, etc.. that would cause compression to not be as high as it should, you’re going to get P0303. You should also feel the vehicle is down on power as well. P0303 is cause for concern and left unfixed can leave you stranded or make the vehicle virtually undrivable.
What about a misfire only in the summer time after getting the truck warm? Like about 20 mins of driving? Only happens in the summer, not in the winter...
hi, wonder if you can help..i have a 2003 dodge dakota with 4.7.it will start fine and will sit and idol but the all of a sudden it will start to gasp hard for air a couple of times and stalls out.
All right folks why is Eric only at 109k subscribers.. let's spread the word and get him at 1 Million.. these are the best videos on youtube..
I guess you could have swapped that cracked injector to the other bank to see if the fuel trim problem went with it, but that's a lot more labor and since it is visibly damaged, it's a good bet to change it. Even if it isn't causing the problem, it should still be replaced.
Best auto channel on TH-cam. I look forward to every video.
Your not boring me, this is interesting. I'm not a mechanic and don't know much more than the basics thank you for teaching me more!
Not too nock eric the car guy but why is it that my man here, who goes in to the problems with equipment for explaining and showing the process of how to figure out what's going on. Is just 100+ thousand subscribers,when he makes things more interesting and more wanting to learn and watch what's the out come. Please folks show some love and support him,cause honestly watching him makes you learn more and gives you more motivation to try to fix your own car a hundred percent. Subscribe and like his videos cause at the end I would feel more confident to have him fix my car,after seeing how he deals with problems that cars come in with to fix
I assume you let all your friends know about this GREAT channel. Pass the word, encourage others to do the same.
I came across it completely by accident. I think this one is the BEST. Knowledgeable, thorough, and TRUSTWORTHY.
Pretty definitive diag there, Eric! I am curious if the paddle probe would have shown a rich burn on cyl 7 and lean on the other three? Then with the truck running would be interesting to try an "injector balance test" meaning unplug one injector at a time and look at fuel trim changes.
Oh and those OTC pulser adapter leads are a pain in the ass lol! Maybe rig up some leads together from the AES Wave kit. So far I have not found a scenario where they didn't work. Looking forward to Part 2!
I guess I'm kind of randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to stream newly released tv shows online ?
I haven't seen one of those injector testers, I will be buying one of those. Thanks Eric
What? No more Dorman ads! :)
This should be a good two-parter.
Morning Dr. O'
It's always gotta be the back one. Never the front one that's easy to get to.
Yep, It's like heater problems, it can't be the actuator that's right under the HVAC, it's got to be the one that requires you to strip the interior out to get to it.. I miss the old control cables....
Like the heater core i replaced in my 99 dakota
Good morning Eric. It will be interesting to see if the injector leads this diagnostic process in the correct direction.
My 2005 Dakota has 191K miles and runs great! No engine problems, only had to replace the EGR at 50K.
Your theory makes sense. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this video. Great diagnostic work. I always thought OTC tools looked like homemade tools, but there's really no excuse for the tester leads to not fit correctly. Good thing that injector is cracked on the visible side.
I used to love to wrench on engines when all you needed was a dwell meter and a timing light... The last vehicle I could use the timing light on was my 86 Mustang GT.. But, since "you can do it, I no longer have to!" ha, ha... :) I'll gladly pay for this kind of stuff now..
Might be worth a trip to the junkyard for some various injector plugs/pigtails..... Homebuilt adapters.
My thought also
In my experience the injectors should flow all the same. I worked on a car last summer with misfires injectors were +or- 1 psi of each other. Put new injectors in and solved the problem.
I did the same damn thing with my first injector tester after that I put a 2amp fuse on the wires for the injector side. Great video
as jump as the F/P gauge looked in first test, probably could've unhooked one at a time while running and look for the dancing gauge to stop. scope injection pulses to confirm they're fairly equal/not wiring issue
Could you have done this - get the engine to closed loop, disconnect the bad injector's wiring harness, see if the bank goes lean. If the bank goes from rich to lean, then you can be pretty sure the problem is isolated to that injector?
Good question and I do not know is the answer... I will try that some time and let you know the results ...
that should make a change and the f/p gauge would likely quit doing the funky chicken dance also :)
Yep the computer makes adjustments to correct the fuel trims from the bad injector & causes lean misfires on the good cylinders. Nice attack strategybut are you hiding more in Part II HAHA
Thanks for this video. I'm having a similar issue and I'm buying that otc box today to try mine out
Happy New Year Eric. Just wondering if the next time you visit the salvage yard you could snag a few different manufacturers Injector plugs and make your own adapters? Just thinking out loud.....
Kenneth, OUTSTANDING idea. I did this same thing on my 4.7L engine with the same OTC tool. What a pain.
same thought
kenneth brown very smart idea.
On the units I've made I do that to get the connectors, then trim off the locks and outer housing so that you only have the inner 2 pin plug. That inner plug will fit multiple injector versions once the outer keying is gone.
It appears John baugh had the idea first. Sorry John, I had not noticed it until after posting.
I'll bet that oil is ruined- if that injector is bleeding out when engine shuts off, too. You used that same injector control to diagnose that '89 C5 a while back. Good stuff. Get well, Gavin!
It's always the hard to reach one... plot twist !! Turns out it was bad shop air all along !! 😂👍
I think she's misfiring might be losing some compression out the holes in the fender LOL all the gadgets and the clipboard it's time for Rocket surgery good job buddy
At least I'm not the only one up this early.
Just for kicks I would like to have seen what a "normal" pressure drop is from a cylinder on the other bank. Presumably the same as the three on the bad side but.... Just another point of reference.
I was always told to do a fuel pressure test before a fuel injection test. I have found bad fuel pressure regulator can be a cause of skipping and bucking also. But i guess every case is different.
When you yelled at the camera to focus I was waiting for the "you fack" after it. I guess I been watching AVE too much 😁
many thanks, Eric, All the best for the new year to you and your family including the dogs, god bless.
Another Great Video! I've seen Part 2. I agree, should change the 4 injectors.
My 4.7 started doing the same thing, replaced all the fuel injectors and it was fine, they were rusted out from the inside
I would do the exact same test that you have performed in the video I would also scope those injectors on bank one all of them at the same time and watch them while they’re running and see if that cracked injector has a higher amp draw as it warming up
Good job as usual eric o..
Was trying to film changing a turbo n injectors on a ford mondeo today with my phone...this filming isnt as easy as you make it seem.
even harder is filming and keeping your head enough to talk properly about what your doing, not everyone can do it, including me.
I'd be a bumbling idiot and have a hard enough time keeping focus just talking to someone else :))
title Quote: ""Dodge Dakota: Intermittent Skipping, Bucking, Poor Running""
sounds like a normal proper running Dodge to me ;))
Lol there the longest lasting running trucks on the road hardly ever any engine problems. Just everything else electrical. Nothing like there failing competitors should I dare say it. Ford, found on road dead. Fix or repair daily. F'ed-up over rebuilt dodge.
GM stands for Guaranteed misery. And that is exactly what you will get. GMC stands for Gods mechanical curse. Gota mechanic coming. Thought I would throw that in there.
STFU
This is happening with my 2004 Dakota. Mine is a 6 cylinder. I don't understand most of what you're saying? It's starting to act up more frequently. It seemed to subside when I only kept it under a quarter tank, but that may have been a two-week coincidence because it's back at it. When I accelerate it acts like I'm running out of gas,usually after it's been running for a few minutes, and smells rich. It's a struggle to get up to 30 mph some days. I imagine people driving around me think I'm driving a stick but don't know how lol. You're explaining exactly what mine does with the codes and flashing light exedra. Can someone explain what's happening in lamens terms? The short story was an injector?
It shows how codes don't tell the whole truth, but the effect on other components.
I hope a new injector is the fix.
Have a happier and healthy 2018 :-D
Twitchy gauge tells the tale, I believe - one must be dumping more than the rest, and I think you've confirmed that with the test. WOAH, automotive poetry! That was terrible. My apologies ... :D I know there's always a twist in the automotive world, so I wouldn't be shocked if I was completely wrong on this.
Love how stuff is built today. I had the same injectors in my '86 Grand Marquis for 29 years, 222K miles - all still good (replaced them because I broke the plastic pintle cover off of one). Guy who bought them on eBay tested them (guess he had a machine that could measure flow) - said only one of the 8 was 3% out of spec! Not bad. Curiously enough, our '93 Volvo 940 looks to have identical injectors to the Merc.. I'll leave well enough alone on that one.
Patiently waiting for Part II .... ;)
So much great information and learning on these videos
Hi Eric, Happy New Year! Great video as always. Do you still have the adapters from your old injector tester? Perhaps you can make the old adapters work with your new tester?
Crank sensor gave me exact same symptoms. Happened randomly trims were the same. Put an oem sensor in and it fixed it. Don't the 5 sensors before
I have the matco unit. Comes with 4mm banana style connections to the box. Combine that with the AES wave terminal kit and there’s nothing you can adapt to. Never had a problem with wires coming off.
Dam auto correct. That should say nothing you can’t connect to.
Great video. So fun to watch. What's your brother's channel?
#7 is also closest to the exhaust collector where most O2 sensors live.
You two make me blush!😉Youre a very lucky man sir! Count your blessings!
Just purchasing this exact year and model..thanks for posting
Ahhh. Nothing like an SMA video to start the day...
Off to the airplane factory now!
Happy New Year. Question; since some of the computers decisions are made on comparisons of input data, would it be good to test the "good" bank injectors as a baseline for the "bad" or is the O2 and fuel trim data enough to work with? I understand you don't want to do unnecessary tests but I've been tripped up a few times, I'm an old diesel mechanic but I'm trying to catch up with technology. Hope thus question isn't a waste of time. Good video.
But be careful the rubber seal may tear. So if you do take this route proceed with coucion unless you have more injector seals lying around.
This video is very intriguing 🤔 definitely looks like that number 7 when it's failing its just dumping all the fuel it can and which makes sense would be causing the miss fire on the other 3 good cylinders Eric O @SouthMaimAutoRepairLLC
love the video's as always. incredible content you put out. Your video's have inspired me to film and upload vid's of me building a twin turbo 2004 mustang 4.6 4v combo. Just getting started but should be fun. Keep up the good work
Hey Eric, I'm not familiar with the scan tool you are using, but, I know most tools will toggle the fuel pump relay, as well as the ASD relay, which would save you the whole key toggling thing.. Just a thought..
I realize you probably don't do injector drop testes every day. But why not make up a few injector plugs that you can just push on the different injectors so you don't have to hold leads when testing. It would take some time to get the injector plugs and wire them to fit the pulse tester. But once you made the more frequently used types, you would save time and make such tests easier and quicker. Just a thought.
Hey Eric. Why do keep taking down your live feeds? They're entertaining. Who cares about the haters.
Yes, please keep them online. I always like to watch them while doing other stuff.
David Sawyer agreed. Eric send to give too much of a damn about the net noise. An unfortunate side effect of those that care is that they care too much about certain things. Eric's on point, and his openness about his methodology has helped me with my cars and more.
Agreed 100%
David Sawyer dude there were some REALLY weird ppl asking some really weird questions and saying some really weird things on new years Eve...I dunno if it was alcohol or what... but Its kinda concerning IMO
A live feed without the chat is like a blind person going to a strip club. It just ain't the same experience when you can't see what's going on.
gremlin on.old ob1 dodge is the engine harness due to it location in engine bay subject to heat amd vibration..babied mine up to 528, 000 miles finally found another decent harness .narrowed it down finally after moving old one a bit and starting right up..noticed on.my other dodge newer basicslly engineeres did same thing..also dumb idea putting charcoal canister under truck hoses mush up 204 code
I had the injector wiring harness melt on my 3.8 T&C minivan and the injectors grounded and that left them open. Lots of gas vapor out the exhaust. I put silver insulating tape around the new harness when I replaced it. I bet the rear of the engine is the hottest place in the bay.
I'm thinking electrical issue of some sort and cooked injector coil. wonder if he checked the fuse to see if someone bozo'd it
Would a valley pan gasket leak cause a random misfire? Plugs wires, cap, etc all changed , after a mile or so, truck runs fine, but a little sluggish, does not stall at stops, 2002 Dodge Dakota 3.9 l magnum
Eric O, would you not only want to double check the same cylinders, but also check the cylinders in the other bank to have a reference to go by , and compare them all ? Just wondering what a known good should be.
Happy new year Eric, belated merry Christmas.
Just don't slam the doors he won't have any scrap weight left
Damn that's some serious body rust. Same as here in maine
Autel 908 is good with this test on Chrysler, You can pulse individual injectors for a specified duration of time.
Holy crap that thing is a pile of rust!!! Not enough fluid film will cure that one.
Boring ..... YES .....bring on Mrs O .....that will make things more exciting
Hmm I have been dealing with p0300, p0301, p0303 and p0305 for over 3 months now. I'll have to check out that upstream O2 sensor sometime soon. Just afraid of destroying the threads..
Did you do it? Did it fix it? Mine has a misfire, but only in the summer. Lol. And after the truck is hot....
Send me that blown up injector tester you mention in the video.
Fixing oddball, proprietary, hard-to-find electronicable stuff is what I do. I've got things to fix stuff.
At this point, why invest into a vehicle with a hole big enough to stick the radiator through in the fender?
Because its required to pass inspection?
I'm pretty sure that hole is an indication you have other issues that are, VERY SOON, going to fail both inspection and keeping you safe.
e Kopke
LOL
Sounds like a good approach. What is the sub frame in the background leaning against the wall?
Very interesting find there sir. Cant recall on what, but i feel like i have seen injectors cracked like that before. I wonder why they do that, some kind of heat/ stress crack or something? It never looks like they got hit or anything. And i have never been diagnosing and come across that...only on a tear down or something and just happen to observe it. Let us know what happens.....
You may be thinking of the Jeep 4.0's, they were famous for this and even had a TSB and updated heat shield that went under them on the intake to help with the hot soak issue and stuff if I recall....
@@SouthMainAuto hey man im having a misfire issue with a dakota, but it only happens in the summer when the truck is hot. Any advice?
ITS A DODGE ! LIKE MY 97 TRUCK
ALL RUSTY AND JUNKY 166K STILL GOES AND READY FOR WINTER
Good little vid with injector relative test .
The otc tester was weak sauce, even dorman would of likely done better harness tails !
Shame you junked old one as could of grafted cable over .
Go to the junkyard and get some fuel injection contentions then put leads on the end.
"Contentions"? Haha alrighty
It should be easy enough to make an injector tester with a project box and a few electronic parts. That would be a fun project, I wonder if any has done it....
Oops, found it myself with a three second google search. Hack a week shows everything, maybe I'll give it a try.
I also have a book on making some too that has parts list and good illustrations in it.
Mandy Concepcion (Author)
spelunkerd Allsun makes a a nice OTC alternative which even has a continuous operation mode for cleaning etc. I liked mine enough to do a bit of a review on it. About $25 bucks or so ready to go!
+Baxrok2 that's a good review, and close to what I'd pay for small parts to make my own. As you say, it's not a tool that will be used every day.
Damn the money light... Check out that massive body rust!
Probably already said: But why's it always...ALWAYS the rear injector, plug, harness, etc... That's usually a PITA to work with!!
Edit: Had a similar issue with my families Durango. Cracked injector. Shorted out the tiny firing coil inside the injector and that took out the PCM. Replaced PCM with a reman from a company in FL. (programmed with updates, etc...no need to flash at the stealership!) And a used injector for a couple of bucks from a local yard. It's been 100% fine now for 3+ years. Water dripped from the cowl area and ran onto the hot injector- cracked the plastic and then it just ate itself.
HAPPY NEW YEAR GREAT JOB
Having a similar problem with a 3.9 dodge. Chrysler got real crappy since computers. Wish i could afford one of your computer diagnostic gizmos....
There's a part 2 .... I'm intrigued:)
Hey Eric!!! What were you about to say at 13:47 of the video just your tool nearly fell? It was regarding the scan tool.
Amazing what you can find with a visual inspection, nice find.
Happy new year from ROMANIA
The difference in pressure decay doesn't seem to be that drastically different, certainly not a smoking gun or "there's your problem lady. I'd be curious what the other bank tested at.
remember as it runs the pressure is dropping and likely the problem lessens as it drops :)
I’d have been tempted to measure one of the injector on the good bank as a parity check as well.
title Quote " Dodge Dakota: intermittent skipping, bucking, poor running" I had the same thing happen to me and it turned out to be the two wire pigtail connecting to the coilpack on my number 1 cylinder. I changed the PCM and had dodge dealer charge me 300 buck to change the #1 pigtail on the both of those injectors. bought a new coil pack, finely figured it out to be the #1 coilpack two wire pig tail.
Had a 99 power wagon per paint bank 1 had one set of 4 injectors and bank 2 had a different set of injectors took 3 days to notice it the two different types of injectors that fired at different portions of fuel to the engine the higher on the right the lessor on the left after 2 weeks we finally worked it out with a matched set of 8
Great Mr owe this is fantastic
OMG..Lolll.. I'm still laughing at that last video you posted..Lollll.. I gotta change my shorts.. Lolll
dont know if you know ebay has adapters to adapt that plug on your tester to any other injector. like i have a 1994 ram 1500 i installed a 2002 5.9 magnum motor as you know the plug on the injectors changed from 1994 to 2002 i ordered a whole set of adapters
EV1 to EV6 may have that backwards but have been on the truck for 5 years still runs great. so you can order one at a time or a set. that is what i did for my injector tool that i have makes it so easy
After watching this video I wanted to see if you might be able to assist me with my own truck. I have a 98 Dakota with the 3.9 liter V6 and I'm having a lot of the same problems as the truck and video the only difference is I'm getting codes P 0300, 0301, 0351, and a 0132. I do already know that those three codes are misfires and the last code is my O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 running rich. I can only assume that the sensor is the problem that I have having because I cannot get it out which tells me it is probably been in there for 22 years. If you have any other advice it would be greatly appreciated.
99% of tech would say "I can't duplicate the issue" and give it back to the customer. Not Eric O. !
I would never have thought to use and injector pulser to test injector VOLUME, but by starting with a 𝐟𝐢𝐱𝐞𝐝 𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐯𝐨𝐥𝐮𝐦𝐞 (𝑤ℎ𝑎𝑡 𝑖𝑠 𝑖𝑛 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑒𝑠) and NO pump, that is exactly what you are doing by looking at pressure drop !!
I think if you could have swapped the #7 injector with say #3 injector to see if the psi was to drop in #3 and stay in range in #7. Like you could do in bad coil over plug diag.
I like the rust colored paint on the wheel well arches...
Hi folks, both alive and dead like me. A bad coil code with 3 and or 7 cly is a misdiagnosis, the cause is likely to be the emmisions system. The can or fuel vapor canister can have split or collapsed vac hoses. Try to block them and it can create a bucking problem when floor and a shitty iratic idle. Shops and scanners used may not have the software to do a vacuum pressure test. So make sure the gastank vapor system supply lines are good and routed to the correct ports.
Your a lucky man Eric O.
Don't see many of these on the road anymore here in the U.P.
That's true, funny how certain models you see a ton of then they just sorta vanish.
I can only imagine rust and crust is the main cause.
P0300 Random/Multiple cylinder misfire detected.possible causes
Faulty or worn spark plugs , wires or coils
Distributor failure
Faulty fuel injector
Vacuum leak
Low fuel pressure
Camshaft sensor defective
Crankshaft sensor defective
Engine timing off
Leaking head gasket
Low engine compression
Poor quality fuel
P0303 should not be ignored, and can be a threat to the drivability the Dodge Dakota. The nice thing about P0303 is that it's a cylinder specific trouble code, which makes diagnosing the problems simpler than P0300, which means that the cylinders are randomly misfiring. P0303 is a cylinder specific misfire code, which means that Cylinder 3 is misfiring and causing the code. An important thing to understand when finding the location of cylinder 3 is that it’s going to be the 3’rd cylinder in the firing order of the vehicle, and not the 3’rd cylinder that you might see when looking at the engine.
Fixing P0303 should be considered a high priority. Unlike a lot of the OBDII codes, this code has to do directly with engine combustion. Driving with a misfire can damage the vehicle’s catalytic converter. The engine is also not firing all of the fuel, so raw fuel is also passing through cylinder 3 into the exhaust. Mileage may suffer as well when your Dakota has P0303.The P0303 trouble code will trigger the Dakota’s service engine soon light. The vehicle itself may begin to run rough. It depends on how serious the misfire is, and how many cylinders the engine has. The vehicle may produce excess vibration, especially at lower RPM. Fuel mileage will suffer (often not drastically). You may smell raw gas coming from the tailpipe. The vehicle may backfire. There are quite a few things that can cause the P0303 trouble code to trigger the Dodge Dakota . Here are the most common problems that will throw the code. They are presented somewhat in order from most to least likely to be causing the code:
Bad Spark Plugs- Spark plugs are one of the most common causes of P0303. Take a look at the electrodes and see if they are in good shape. Most vehicles now come with iridium plugs that need changed very infrequently. That being said, the plugs are a great place to start. Here’s a great video on how to see if a spark plug is bad.
Spark Plug Wires- On most modern engines, the plug wires are not nearly as long as they once were, but they can still go bad. Here’s how to tell if your plug wires are bad (video).
Coil Packs- Coil packs rarely go bad, but when they do, they can certainly cause P0303 in your Dodge Dakota. Replacing a set can be very expensive. Here’s how to test them.
Bad Fuel Injector- If you have a fuel injector that has gone bad, it won’t be able to properly atomize the fuel and you’ll get the P0303. Here’s a good video on how to diagnose an injector, it can be a little tricky. This is definitely not the place to start.
Vacuum leak- If your Dakota has a vacuum leak, it can be very difficult for it to get the right air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to misfire and it’ll throw the P0303 if the leak is around that specific cylinder on the intake manifold. It’s easy (and kind of fun) to chase one down. Popular Mechanics: How to find a vacuum leak.
Cam or Crank Sensors- This one is very unlikely, but it does happen. If the ECU is not getting the right signal from these sensors, the vehicles timing is not going to sync up and it’ll misfire.
Low Compression- If you have a leaking head gasket, bent valve, cracked head, etc.. that would cause compression to not be as high as it should, you’re going to get P0303. You should also feel the vehicle is down on power as well. P0303 is cause for concern and left unfixed can leave you stranded or make the vehicle virtually undrivable.
What about a misfire only in the summer time after getting the truck warm? Like about 20 mins of driving? Only happens in the summer, not in the winter...
As the rust falls off it shakes..lol rust cracked the injector I've seen it on the old 80's town cars and stuck injectors
The part that needs replacing is always the part hardest to get to... always.
Eric, thanks for sharing!
How many times can one run injector test before hydrolocking the engine?
hi, wonder if you can help..i have a 2003 dodge dakota with 4.7.it will start fine and will sit and idol but the all of a sudden it will start to gasp hard for air a couple of times and stalls out.
Cool, we haven't done this test in long time! Thanks!
Next time you visit the auto breakers you’ll be collecting some adapters.