Yo Tony what's up man thanks for the vid but I'm not sure this is my problem any how..... Got a 02 Durango 4×4 4.7l don't know if this matters but my exhaust broke off at the muffler the only thing that's happing to SUV so far don't know if this could be my problem so just letting ya know so what's going on is when I start the truck at cold start of warm sometimes it just cracks until I pump or hold the gas pedal 2nd rpms run steady at little under 1k rpm but when I hit the gas it keeps like putting or hesitation unless I get back on the gas from 0 to 40 now once I hit 50 it hesitates bad unless I let off and hammer back on it no check engine light on what ya think buddy only 99000 miles on it please let me know thanks happy holidays..., sorry for the book lol
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO checked for vacuume leaks haven't seen or heard any was thinking baby spark plugs or something like that till watched you vid I will try the TPS thanks man
This video is very informative and helped me tremendously , i just took my IACV out last night and replaced it , i couldn't believe how dirty it was .It runs like a champ now
Hey, that is awesome! I am hoping to be able to put together more content. Also, if you have the 2004 Dodge Durango, please look at my other video regarding the misfire hack I learned. You can have water leaking in under your cowl and running into your spark plug wells. Thanks again for your awesome comment.
Had fast idle and would shift into second just letting off the brake. AICV was bad cleaned the Orpheus with brake cleaner and rag put a new one in 75 bux from advanced. idles perfect runs great! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. At first thought it was the throttle position sensor since I replaced that before and it gives similar symptoms. Funny these two sensors are next to each other but never dawned on me. Couple extra tips: a “very thin” coat of vasoline would work for the O rings if you don’t have the grease. A shot of PB blast or wd 40 on hex screw threads prior to unscrewing helps keep from stripping. I used 12 inch channel locks fully expanded to pop new sensor in place if you lack the strength. - 05 Durango 4.7 L 266k miles
You are right, both sensors give similar symptoms when going bad. Luckily for me, if you want to call it luck, the TPS caused way more erratic issues than the IAC. Which led to faster troubleshooting in my case.
Thanks for the video - since I was in the neighborhood I replaced the throttle position sensor at the same time. Both of these parts are fairly cheap so may as well do them both at the same time . . . at least in my opinion. The IAC wasa indeed stuck and was giving me a hard time releasing. Since I was replacing it anyway and wasn't worried about damage I grabbed it with a big Channel Lock Plier and was able to wiggle it out easily and I actually did no damage at all. I took your advice and coated both o'rings with dielectric grease and it popped right in with zero effort. Thanks for the video! 👍
I too felt like it was the transmission until I changed the valve. Now it runs great, I also changed the spark plugs, Throttle Position Sensor, only to find out one of the cables to the connection to the Air Intake Temperature sensor was broken. Im glad I changed all those things though.
Great! It’s amazing how this can be such an easy fix yet cause so many problems...I also recently discovered water was damaging the tps sensor too...I bet I’ve replaced it 5 times already
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO hey man so I put it in and I think it takes a little while of driving for it to start working. At first it still dropped down in drive but after driving a little bit it's starting to work better!!
Thanks alot for the video I'm gonna be replacing mine on my 2002 dodge ram 1500 4.7 my idle always goes up and down from 800 rpm too about 1500 rpm some times it stalls out I'm just gonna be ordering the IAC today
Thanks for the video I know it's was up 5 years ago but I just got a 2004 dodge Ram 1500 4.7L and my RPM is below 1 so I think that's what's wrong with. I think this video will help me out a lot
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO my 2007 durango for some odd reason when in 2nd gears (30 to 50 mph) it stutters and rumbles but if i take my foot off the gas then place it on again it puts its self into 3rd gear and the stutters gone
M Living Art thank you for commenting. This was my first video and I hope I can continue to find ways to present things in an easy to understand manner. Thanks for being part of the community!
Hi Tony, thanks for the video. / not easy to get the old valve out... but I'm having the same problems and last week I bought the part. I'll do it tomorrow.
Great video. I'm working on the same vehicle. Did my sparkplugs, boots and air control valve. Still have a bit of a shake. Any ideas. Anything helps. Thanks
Just took the IAC out of my 4.7 Durango cleaned it with carburetor cleaner he was pretty nasty put it back in was harder to get back in and take out hopefully this stops the engine revving problem
2006 Durango 4.7, the screw is stripped on the iac valve, is there any way of removing the screw without having to remove the throttle body?? Also what is a good replacement screw???
You could try a reverse drill bit or an extraction tool. Ryobi makes a 5 bit kit that is cheap. You drill a little hole and then use the reverse spiral bit to back the screw out. I believe this can be done without removing the throttle body, but you will need to protect the area and openings from metal shavings. As far as replacements go...you will need to shop around. I hope this helps and please let me know the outcome.
I know this video is older but I do have a question. When I'm sitting at a red light and the light turns green I hit the accelerator and the engine has no power. Durango moves very slow. If I shut off the engine and restart it goes back to normal. It does it all the time regardless if there's water or not on the road. Also when I'm doing over 80 miles an hour my girlfriend starts complaining. Is there any way to keep her quiet?
Just got my 2003 Ram quad 4x4 4.7l 190k. 😁. But having same problem. No engine light but lopes and sum time dies, then starts right back up. So far I’ve found bad rubber vacuum hoses. Now it stumbles on low idle sum times. IAC is next😎
Saludos,Tony, en base a mi pregunta anterior sobre cómo ajustar el cable de cuerpo de aceleración, podrías hacer un vídeo para seguir los pasos. Gracias
Hi, Tony, he visto tus videos.felicidades, tengo una Dodge ram pickup 1500 4.7 2004. Puedes por favor ayudarme, como puedo ajustar el cable del cuerpo de aceleración, el cable está un poco flojo desde el pedal, hasta donde abre la mariposa, gracias por tus videos 👍
I have same symptoms sometimes cutting off when stop and or reverse but also have a general low idle (500 rpm) and subsequently low oil pressure light come on at idle. Possibly IAC?
More than likely, your setup has an “electronic throttle control” which means no idle air control valve. Newer vehicles have gone to drive by wire (no physical rods or cables, but electronics sending voltages to different sensors to control everything). This changes the way we diagnose and repair many problems. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with this setup..
Hi ... I saw your video and did exactly the same thing you did when replacing the IAC valve with a new one. But now in idle it only destabilizes a little when I press the accelerator above 1000 revolutions, which, when leaving in the "park" gear, the revolutions of the unstable idle do not exceed a thousand revolutions, but do not go below of the five hundred. Sometimes the engine dies when I quickly slow down to come to a halt, but it restarts smoothly and the idle stabilizes. Do you think there is a problem with the valve itself, or was it supposed to lubricate the stem as is often done in sedans?
I got this code on my durango. But the rubber boot that goes to the air box has a tear in it. Since it may be getting too much air now, could this be a reason for getting this code?
Replacing the IAC on our 2000 dodge Dakota 4.7...we can't get the connector to go all the way on the new one..its exactly like the old one so not sure why..have any suggestions?
carrie coleman it should be a pretty tight fit. Just make sure there is not anything obstructing either end of the connector. Also if you took off both connectors (one for the IAC and the one for the throttle position sensor) make sure you are putting the right one in the right spot.
Jack russell that is interesting. I’m assuming that the “vacuum cap” is normally closed off? If so it tells me something is preventing the proper amount of air from getting to the engine. And the removal of the cap is the only way it gets there. I would start with the cheaper diagnostics like throughly cleaning the throttle body (making sure no buildup is causing an air stoppage) and checking vacuum lines to make sure they are clear. Let me know if you get it diagnosed.
My 2002 dodge Durango revs up high when I turn it on and then drops to 600rpm, also when I go 65 I can feel little jerks that happen. Would this be the problem?
It’s possible that the IAC is bad. It is also possible that the throttle position sensor is going bad. However, these could be other reasons for the jerking (bad fuel, trash in the injectors)
I have replaced the Throttle position sensor, Map sensor, oxygen sensor. I keep getting a MAP sensor error though. Is it worth trying an IAC? 06 Durango 4.7 V-8
You could try an IAC, but I hate to see you throw money at a problem and it not fix it. Does the MAP sensor problem come back up after changing the sensor and resetting the codes?
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO Yes. it does. The engine starts hard, runs for a few minutes, then cuts off. it has 236K miles on it. It has a rear main seal leak and oil pan gasket leak, I was just trying to get it running until I can replace the vehicle.
@@anthonywilliamson9834 Nope. I had to change out my spark plugs, three years old but they were just standard plugs. I also needed a new catalytic converter. I have a cheap scan tool. I reccomend using a really good one to help diagnose the problem.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO because all the symptoms you mention of the IAC is the exact problems I have, but lately when I start it back up, it'll throw a bit of light colored smoke for like 2 or 3 seconds. Any ideas what else it can be? (Have not switched the IAC yet, planning on doing tonight). Plus thanks for the help!
It is possible that the part is bad. One thing about these vehicles is the ability of rain water from the windshield cowl going bad to really affect them. Check to see if water is getting to the tps and the iac (they sit right there together)... I’ve had to replace the throttle position sensor (tps) multiple times because of water and it can cause similar symptoms
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO it's running great now! It was the faulty IACV when I changed it again this time I drove it plenty and it has been performing well!!! Hope it last 🙏 Thanks
Okay, I replaced IAC valve, TPS, MAP sensor, had transmission flushed and filled. Still getting idle issues and trouble code P0068 , still not shifting properly. Any ideas?
John Bright, yes I believe it is the same process. There may be some differences, but overall this video should get you where you need to be. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
My 2000 4.7 Durango with 11700 miles will stall when I stop at a light/stop sign. only within the first few miles when I drive it every day for the last 2-3 weeks. It starts right back up after the stall then runs perfect the rest of the day no mater how many times I come to a stop, turn it of/on many times throughout the day. Sooooo this video looks like it could be the problem for me? Please help with comments
This is a good possibility as a fix. Also check the mass air flow sensor and watch my other video on the tps sensor. Also check for vacuum leaks. Unfortunately these Durango’s can be tricky with the stall problem.
Great video! Also, what about the intake air temperature sensor? Where is that located on this motor? I plan on replacing the MAP sensor as well and I know where that is.
I just replace the throttle positioning sensor thought that was a problem with my Durango 4.7 accelerating on its own. Have driven it for a week no problem until tonight scared the crap out of my wife thank God I knew to throw it up into neutral and hit the brakes brakes
Yes, the TPS is another common problem. Just a heads up though...I put an aftermarket TPS on mine and I've replaced it 3 times. Thank goodness for warranties. The first time I replaced it I had to limp it home because the failed TPS would not allow enough acceleration to change gears.
Jared August, it takes air, fuel, and spark to make a cylinder fire correctly. I would start by checking my coil pack first. You could swap a known good cylinder with the number 2. If the problem moves you have your culprit. If it doesn’t help, it could be dirty or malfunctioning injector. Again, to troubleshoot you could swap the injectors to see if the problem moves. I don’t want to guess at cost because it could vary widely. Let us know what fixes it. Thanks for the question
Great question, thanks for commenting. I am going to be honest...I am not 100% sure what the problem may be. It could be as simple as a vacuum leak or as crazy as a sensor. Please let me know if and when you find out what the problem was.
Arnold W McDonald thanks for the question. There are really any number of problems and without being able to properly diagnose the problem it is almost impossible to figure out. Remember it takes fuel, air, and a spark to make the engine run. It sounds like one of these is being cut out prematurely. Run a fuel pressure test, make sure your air filter and throttle body are clean, and make sure your spark is strong at each coil pack/spark plug. These are just a few simple things you can do and simple is the best place to start. Good luck with your project.
I’ll be honest, it is not something I have experienced with my Durango. It could be sensors or even a vacuum problem. Sometimes these vehicles can drive us crazy for sure. Please comment back if you solve the problem...I’d really like to hear the solution.
I did not have to twist or turn mine. However, with the rubber o-ring you may find it difficult to remove (difficult meaning you will feel resistance), but it should just pull out of the housing.
🔥🔥If you are having problems with multiple Throttle Position Sensors going out, check out this video🔥🔥
th-cam.com/video/TKzjFv6chfU/w-d-xo.html
Yo Tony what's up man thanks for the vid but I'm not sure this is my problem any how..... Got a 02 Durango 4×4 4.7l don't know if this matters but my exhaust broke off at the muffler the only thing that's happing to SUV so far don't know if this could be my problem so just letting ya know so what's going on is when I start the truck at cold start of warm sometimes it just cracks until I pump or hold the gas pedal 2nd rpms run steady at little under 1k rpm but when I hit the gas it keeps like putting or hesitation unless I get back on the gas from 0 to 40 now once I hit 50 it hesitates bad unless I let off and hammer back on it no check engine light on what ya think buddy only 99000 miles on it please let me know thanks happy holidays..., sorry for the book lol
@@kevincash2238 possibly throttle position sensor or maybe a vacuum leak
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO checked for vacuume leaks haven't seen or heard any was thinking baby spark plugs or something like that till watched you vid I will try the TPS thanks man
This video is very informative and helped me tremendously , i just took my IACV out last night and replaced it , i couldn't believe how dirty it was .It runs like a champ now
Hey, that is awesome! I am hoping to be able to put together more content. Also, if you have the 2004 Dodge Durango, please look at my other video regarding the misfire hack I learned. You can have water leaking in under your cowl and running into your spark plug wells. Thanks again for your awesome comment.
I am extremely grateful for this video. My 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 was idling crazy & I changed that valve & now my truck is running great. Thanks!
That is great to hear. I’m glad it helped for sure. Thanks for watching!
i just wanted to say thank this is. the.best video .because all the rest don't have a clue about the topic that they are talking about.
Thanks, glad it helped.
Had fast idle and would shift into second just letting off the brake. AICV was bad cleaned the Orpheus with brake cleaner and rag put a new one in 75 bux from advanced. idles perfect runs great! Thanks for the video.
That is awesome to hear! Glad it worked for you.
That’s what my ram 1500 is doing rn gonna change it out tomorrow and hopefully it works
Thanks for the video. At first thought it was the throttle position sensor since I replaced that before and it gives similar symptoms. Funny these two sensors are next to each other but never dawned on me. Couple extra tips: a “very thin” coat of vasoline would work for the O rings if you don’t have the grease. A shot of PB blast or wd 40 on hex screw threads prior to unscrewing helps keep from stripping. I used 12 inch channel locks fully expanded to pop new sensor in place if you lack the strength. - 05 Durango 4.7 L 266k miles
You are right, both sensors give similar symptoms when going bad. Luckily for me, if you want to call it luck, the TPS caused way more erratic issues than the IAC. Which led to faster troubleshooting in my case.
Thanks for your tutorial I was able to fix my own car.
May Gad be with you
Foe helping people around tje World.
Thanks for the video - since I was in the neighborhood I replaced the throttle position sensor at the same time. Both of these parts are fairly cheap so may as well do them both at the same time . . . at least in my opinion. The IAC wasa indeed stuck and was giving me a hard time releasing. Since I was replacing it anyway and wasn't worried about damage I grabbed it with a big Channel Lock Plier and was able to wiggle it out easily and I actually did no damage at all. I took your advice and coated both o'rings with dielectric grease and it popped right in with zero effort. Thanks for the video! 👍
I too felt like it was the transmission until I changed the valve. Now it runs great, I also changed the spark plugs, Throttle Position Sensor, only to find out one of the cables to the connection to the Air Intake Temperature sensor was broken. Im glad I changed all those things though.
Great! It’s amazing how this can be such an easy fix yet cause so many problems...I also recently discovered water was damaging the tps sensor too...I bet I’ve replaced it 5 times already
I just cleaned mine today. I had the same symptoms as described. Good video.
Eddington J, thanks. Glad the video helped!
Eddington, you said you cleaned it? That's what I want to do, how did you do it?
I just got it here and I'm going to put it in later!! It sounds just like what's happening to mine. Thank you very much!!!!
Let me know how it works out
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO hey man so I put it in and I think it takes a little while of driving for it to start working. At first it still dropped down in drive but after driving a little bit it's starting to work better!!
💥💥Check out the playlist covering the Dodge 4.7L🔥🔥
th-cam.com/play/PLa2QjWf2uTrfiNnns-2nAn85qYZjwXCKr.html
My 2003 Durango had the same problems (stalling out at low speed, erratic idle, etc) The IAC valve was the culprit.
Glad you got it fixed!
Thanks alot for the video I'm gonna be replacing mine on my 2002 dodge ram 1500 4.7 my idle always goes up and down from 800 rpm too about 1500 rpm some times it stalls out I'm just gonna be ordering the IAC today
Thanks for the video I know it's was up 5 years ago but I just got a 2004 dodge Ram 1500 4.7L and my RPM is below 1 so I think that's what's wrong with. I think this video will help me out a lot
Great video thanks for the help.
Great video best one I found for fixing my dodge truck IACV Thanks!
chris olson Hey thanks! I’m glad the video helped you and thanks for commenting and being apart of the community.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO my 2007 durango for some odd reason when in 2nd gears (30 to 50 mph) it stutters and rumbles but if i take my foot off the gas then place it on again it puts its self into 3rd gear and the stutters gone
Thank you for the video. I wish you would have filmed the problem before and after
Back then I had no idea that this was even such a big issue…or I would have for sure
Appreciate all the time you took to explain and show all the steps, along with some nice tips to make things easier. Thanks for sharing :-)
M Living Art thank you for commenting. This was my first video and I hope I can continue to find ways to present things in an easy to understand manner. Thanks for being part of the community!
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO Sounds good! Keep creating :-)
Hi Tony, thanks for the video. / not easy to get the old valve out... but I'm having the same problems and last week I bought the part. I'll do it tomorrow.
Great video. I'm working on the same vehicle. Did my sparkplugs, boots and air control valve. Still have a bit of a shake. Any ideas. Anything helps. Thanks
Thanks man just did my 2003 Dakota. Old style on the way for my 2001 Durango (both 4.7)
I have a 02 rango with the 4.7. Can this part be cleaned?
Awesome Information. Thank you for sharing this much-needed fix.
Just took the IAC out of my 4.7 Durango cleaned it with carburetor cleaner he was pretty nasty put it back in was harder to get back in and take out hopefully this stops the engine revving problem
Did it work
@@dhurlburt4020 like new
Thanks man i have a 2007 dodge dakota 4.7 and its doing the same exact thing hopefully this works!!
Good luck! Let me know how it works.
2006 Durango 4.7, the screw is stripped on the iac valve, is there any way of removing the screw without having to remove the throttle body?? Also what is a good replacement screw???
You could try a reverse drill bit or an extraction tool. Ryobi makes a 5 bit kit that is cheap. You drill a little hole and then use the reverse spiral bit to back the screw out. I believe this can be done without removing the throttle body, but you will need to protect the area and openings from metal shavings.
As far as replacements go...you will need to shop around. I hope this helps and please let me know the outcome.
Heck yeah, knocked it out in 25 mins! Thanks
Awesome! Glad it worked
I know this video is older but I do have a question. When I'm sitting at a red light and the light turns green I hit the accelerator and the engine has no power. Durango moves very slow. If I shut off the engine and restart it goes back to normal. It does it all the time regardless if there's water or not on the road. Also when I'm doing over 80 miles an hour my girlfriend starts complaining. Is there any way to keep her quiet?
I have the same issue
Great job buddy thanks
Abraham Arreola#1 you are welcome! Hopefully it helped you out, thanks for watching
Just got my 2003 Ram quad 4x4 4.7l 190k. 😁. But having same problem. No engine light but lopes and sum time dies, then starts right back up. So far I’ve found bad rubber vacuum hoses. Now it stumbles on low idle sum times.
IAC is next😎
Saludos,Tony, en base a mi pregunta anterior sobre cómo ajustar el cable de cuerpo de aceleración, podrías hacer un vídeo para seguir los pasos. Gracias
Let me see what I can do about getting a video together...no promises though.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO Gracias, hojala que si!!! Espero ese vídeo.😁🎥🎥🎥
Great video !!!...
Thanks I'll have to try this.
Good luck. Let me know if it works.
Thanks for that.
No problem! Hope it helped you fix your problem.
Hi, Tony, he visto tus videos.felicidades, tengo una Dodge ram pickup 1500 4.7 2004.
Puedes por favor ayudarme, como puedo ajustar el cable del cuerpo de aceleración, el cable está un poco flojo desde el pedal, hasta donde abre la mariposa, gracias por tus videos 👍
I have same symptoms sometimes cutting off when stop and or reverse but also have a general low idle (500 rpm) and subsequently low oil pressure light come on at idle. Possibly IAC?
What about in a 2011 Dakota? The throttle body looks totally different. I can’t find any information on the iac for this year.
More than likely, your setup has an “electronic throttle control” which means no idle air control valve. Newer vehicles have gone to drive by wire (no physical rods or cables, but electronics sending voltages to different sensors to control everything).
This changes the way we diagnose and repair many problems. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with this setup..
Thank bud!!
Any time
Hi ... I saw your video and did exactly the same thing you did when replacing the IAC valve with a new one. But now in idle it only destabilizes a little when I press the accelerator above 1000 revolutions, which, when leaving in the "park" gear, the revolutions of the unstable idle do not exceed a thousand revolutions, but do not go below of the five hundred. Sometimes the engine dies when I quickly slow down to come to a halt, but it restarts smoothly and the idle stabilizes. Do you think there is a problem with the valve itself, or was it supposed to lubricate the stem as is often done in sedans?
Are you getting any trouble codes? Could be a throttle position sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere
I got this code on my durango. But the rubber boot that goes to the air box has a tear in it. Since it may be getting too much air now, could this be a reason for getting this code?
Hell yeah thanks mam, thats the exact problem my durango is been having
So glad it helped!!
What is that sensor just above the one you're changing?
Well done
Thank you
I have a 03 Dodge Durango 47 and it's drinking gas and missing really bad and it dies when you start it up
What about not coming down to a low idle anymore?
I have a 04 dodge dakota slt 4.7l with high idle issue think I'll replace my tps and ac sensor and see how it runs then
Let me know how it works out.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO indeed I surely will let you know sir and thanks for the videos
You are welcome. Thank you for watching.
I was able to slide the little red tab back but it still won’t come out , any tips ?
this solved my problem
Mac, that is what I like to hear!! I’m glad that this video helped. Please feel free to share around!!
What was the problem cause my Durango keeps stalling and I’m lost with what to do
Replacing the IAC on our 2000 dodge Dakota 4.7...we can't get the connector to go all the way on the new one..its exactly like the old one so not sure why..have any suggestions?
carrie coleman it should be a pretty tight fit. Just make sure there is not anything obstructing either end of the connector. Also if you took off both connectors (one for the IAC and the one for the throttle position sensor) make sure you are putting the right one in the right spot.
Thank man
2000 darango 4.7 won't run unless I take 1 vacuum cap off side of throttle. Any suggestions
Jack russell that is interesting. I’m assuming that the “vacuum cap” is normally closed off? If so it tells me something is preventing the proper amount of air from getting to the engine. And the removal of the cap is the only way it gets there. I would start with the cheaper diagnostics like throughly cleaning the throttle body (making sure no buildup is causing an air stoppage) and checking vacuum lines to make sure they are clear. Let me know if you get it diagnosed.
Jack russell what was the problem. ? I have the same. Problem unless i remove rhe vacuum cap.
Would this cause high rpms mins at 1800rpms just started today
I changed my idleair controll system now it's running wide open what do I do to fix
My 2002 dodge Durango revs up high when I turn it on and then drops to 600rpm, also when I go 65 I can feel little jerks that happen. Would this be the problem?
It’s possible that the IAC is bad. It is also possible that the throttle position sensor is going bad. However, these could be other reasons for the jerking (bad fuel, trash in the injectors)
I have replaced the Throttle position sensor, Map sensor, oxygen sensor. I keep getting a MAP sensor error though. Is it worth trying an IAC? 06 Durango 4.7 V-8
You could try an IAC, but I hate to see you throw money at a problem and it not fix it. Does the MAP sensor problem come back up after changing the sensor and resetting the codes?
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO Yes. it does. The engine starts hard, runs for a few minutes, then cuts off. it has 236K miles on it. It has a rear main seal leak and oil pan gasket leak, I was just trying to get it running until I can replace the vehicle.
@@new_frontiersman9064 I understand that...kinda what we are doing too. I wish I had a different idea.
I am having the same problem did it fix yours?
@@anthonywilliamson9834 Nope. I had to change out my spark plugs, three years old but they were just standard plugs. I also needed a new catalytic converter. I have a cheap scan tool. I reccomend using a really good one to help diagnose the problem.
When your IAC was failing an it would make your truck turn off, did smoke come out your exhaust when you started it back up??
I really don’t t recall seeing any smoke.
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO because all the symptoms you mention of the IAC is the exact problems I have, but lately when I start it back up, it'll throw a bit of light colored smoke for like 2 or 3 seconds. Any ideas what else it can be? (Have not switched the IAC yet, planning on doing tonight). Plus thanks for the help!
@@littlescorpion03 I think you may be on the right track…it could also be the throttle position sensor
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO I was thinking maybe the egr valve? Think there's a possibility?
Hey victor did it makes your run real rough an shaky then die on you? Curious cuz I’m have the slight same issue
What about hard to start. It cranks over but won't crank instantly, like it did when new, I hold down the gas, and it will finally crank.
thank you....
Muchas gracias. Buen video, me ayudó bastante.
che De nada! Yo hablo espanol muy poco, para me alegro de que haya ayudado.
Did you had high idle ?
Hey what can I do if I changed this part already and ran good for a few days then came back doing the same thing!? Is it possible the part is faulty?
It is possible that the part is bad. One thing about these vehicles is the ability of rain water from the windshield cowl going bad to really affect them. Check to see if water is getting to the tps and the iac (they sit right there together)... I’ve had to replace the throttle position sensor (tps) multiple times because of water and it can cause similar symptoms
@@TonyCollumtheHOWTOHERO it's running great now!
It was the faulty IACV when I changed it again this time I drove it plenty and it has been performing well!!!
Hope it last 🙏
Thanks
@@KozmikEl7 that it good to hear!
Okay, I replaced IAC valve, TPS, MAP sensor, had transmission flushed and filled. Still getting idle issues and trouble code P0068 , still not shifting properly. Any ideas?
Did you ever figure out what was causing your P0068 code?
Any update onthis
Do any of y’all have an update on this?
What makes these have high rpm almost 2x an go through gas like 4 my miles a gallon??
Having problems getting a new one in
Would it be the same thing for the 4.7 ram 1500 truck?
John Bright, yes I believe it is the same process. There may be some differences, but overall this video should get you where you need to be. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
My 2000 4.7 Durango with 11700 miles will stall when I stop at a light/stop sign. only within the first few miles when I drive it every day for the last 2-3 weeks. It starts right back up after the stall then runs perfect the rest of the day no mater how many times I come to a stop, turn it of/on many times throughout the day. Sooooo this video looks like it could be the problem for me? Please help with comments
This is a good possibility as a fix. Also check the mass air flow sensor and watch my other video on the tps sensor. Also check for vacuum leaks. Unfortunately these Durango’s can be tricky with the stall problem.
Great video! Also, what about the intake air temperature sensor? Where is that located on this motor? I plan on replacing the MAP sensor as well and I know where that is.
Aftermarket intake or factory?
@@darrinsparks688 Factory
Should be under the air filter assembly
@@darrinsparks688 ok thanks!
I just replace the throttle positioning sensor thought that was a problem with my Durango 4.7 accelerating on its own. Have driven it for a week no problem until tonight scared the crap out of my wife thank God I knew to throw it up into neutral and hit the brakes brakes
Yes, the TPS is another common problem. Just a heads up though...I put an aftermarket TPS on mine and I've replaced it 3 times. Thank goodness for warranties. The first time I replaced it I had to limp it home because the failed TPS would not allow enough acceleration to change gears.
I actually believe there was a recall on the problem your discribing...
I have a cylinder 2 miss fire what could be the problem and how much could it cost
Jared August, it takes air, fuel, and spark to make a cylinder fire correctly. I would start by checking my coil pack first. You could swap a known good cylinder with the number 2. If the problem moves you have your culprit. If it doesn’t help, it could be dirty or malfunctioning injector. Again, to troubleshoot you could swap the injectors to see if the problem moves. I don’t want to guess at cost because it could vary widely. Let us know what fixes it. Thanks for the question
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Can you clean it without having to buy a new one?
I’m guessing it can be cleaned, but I have no idea if it fixes the issue
Now after changing the air throttle system it's running wide open why is this and how do I fix it
Check the throttle position sensor
My 2006 dodge dakota idles only when i put it in park it idles for a minute and then it stops what could be the issue no code or check engine light?
Great question, thanks for commenting. I am going to be honest...I am not 100% sure what the problem may be. It could be as simple as a vacuum leak or as crazy as a sensor. Please let me know if and when you find out what the problem was.
My 2K Dodge dakota 4.7/V8 kept giving me a P0505 error.
Hey, thanks for that info! It is good to know this is the code for the idle air control valve. Were you able to get yours fixed?
I changed mine and it’s leaking air around the bolt
I have a dodge dakota 2002 4.7 liter. It will start idle for awhile then die out. What could possibly be my problem?
Arnold W McDonald thanks for the question. There are really any number of problems and without being able to properly diagnose the problem it is almost impossible to figure out. Remember it takes fuel, air, and a spark to make the engine run. It sounds like one of these is being cut out prematurely. Run a fuel pressure test, make sure your air filter and throttle body are clean, and make sure your spark is strong at each coil pack/spark plug. These are just a few simple things you can do and simple is the best place to start. Good luck with your project.
What about a high idle
I’ll be honest, it is not something I have experienced with my Durango. It could be sensors or even a vacuum problem. Sometimes these vehicles can drive us crazy for sure. Please comment back if you solve the problem...I’d really like to hear the solution.
Hello Tony when taking the valve off do you have to turn or twist it a certain way while pulling it? Thanks
I did not have to twist or turn mine. However, with the rubber o-ring you may find it difficult to remove (difficult meaning you will feel resistance), but it should just pull out of the housing.
I did both but rpm still high 2000
Hi i put a New One and still is to hi
My car truck Dodge ramp I don not hot not go fast
Who cares about a Dodge!!! LoL