Copper plating on 1936 'Burg' padlock - Full restoration! I Dr. Hut of Handcraft
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2023
- #hutofhandcraft #restoration #toolrestoration #padlock
Second Channel: / @drhutslab
Patreon: / drhutofhandcraft
Facebook: / hutofhandcraft
Instagram: / dr.hutofhandcraft
In this video I restored an old padlock made by 'Burg Wächter' many many years ago. I found it about two years ago at the metal waste facility and finally decided to restore it.
Since it was in a very bad condition and very heavily pitted I decided to just clean it and prevent further corrosion. It wouldn't have made sense in my opinion to try sanding away all the pitting, since there wouldn't be much material left. Even though this is usually not my style I am very happy with the outcome and more than happy that it actually works :D
The reason I did not chrome plate like original and did copper plating instead is simply because I don't like chrome plating and copper plating is actually my favorite :)
I used cold bluing on all parts that I didn't want to warp or be damaged under the heat required for hot bluing.
For the keys and the shackle I just used hot bluing because the heat doesn't harm those parts. I personally prefer hot bluing before cold bluing, but hot bluing is not always possible.
If you are willing to support me leave a comment, subscribe and share my work, I really appreciate and it helps me a lot!
I hope you will have some fun watching the video! If you have any further questions on the process, tools, material, nickel plating, copper plating, bluing or else write a comment, I will try my best to answer your questions.
I hope you liked the video! Thank you for watching!
Disclaimer:
The experiments are only for educational purposes and serve as entertainment.
I am experienced in handling the used substances and I advise everyone who is not a trained professional not to imitate the experiments I show you.
For experiments which could cause potential danger I will not tell you which chemicals I am using to prevent imitating. Those who know what is happening, know the chemicals anyway and probably are trained professionals. :)
I am not responsible for personal injury or property damage if any actions shown in the video will be imitated.
I hope you understand.
Until next time :)
Second Channel: / @drhutslab
Facebook: / hutofhandcraft
Patreon: / drhutofhandcraft
Instagram: / dr.hutofhandcraft
Rotten german 1936 'Burg' padlock restoration I Dr. Hut of Handcraft - บันเทิง
![[TH]FFWS SEA Spring 2024 Knockout Stage - Day 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DVnFpe52UV4/mqdefault.jpg)
I love the copper accent you added to this restoration! Well done!
Glad you liked it, thank you!
You display two traits I value highly....patience and ingenuity. Well done!
Much appreciated, thank you!
Very nice mate 😊 i like the copper plating process 👍
Thank you so much buddy, I really appreciate it! Glad you liked it!
I don't know what to say about this Doc. But I enjoyed watching it.
Glad you enjoyed, thank you very much 🙏🏼
what a lovely transformation.
Thank you Nora 🙏🏼
Wenn man liefert, dann liefert man!
Chapeau ❤
Danke 🙏🏼
FANTASTIC !!
Thank you 🙏🏼
All that old grease inside is what kept it in pristine condition all these years.
😄😄
Splendid job you did restoring that old padlock, and it still came with its own key. It looks much better, particularly with that copper plating on that cover for the key hole, and it works like a charm too. Excellent work as usual.
Appreciate you comment George, Thank you!
*Thank you for a very good video. Valuable leason learned!* 👍❤😊
Thank you!
Good job!
Thank you!
You do such beautiful work. And you knowledge and skill are very impressive. Thanks for what you do!
Thank you so much for your kind words, much appreciated 🙏🏼
Frikkin sweet 👍🏻 👍🏻
Thank you!
Wow! i can see why you found it where you did. i appreciate that i can watch the video w/mute. fine presentation, very fine.
i especially like absence of "bondo". gives the piece character. jmo. thx
Thank you very much!
What is bondo? 😄
automotive filler putty...@@DrHutOfHandcraft
@@LBG-cf8gu ahh okay 😄
Nice work 🎉
Thank you!
Amazing bro 😁👏👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks 🙏🏼
Very nicely done.
Thank you!
Loving that 🔨😊
Glad you liked it!
Great making video anyway 👍👍
🙏🏼🙏🏼
Beautiful execution - well done 👍
Thank buddy 🙏🏼
The copper plate against the blued steel look really sharp!
Thank you :)
Man, your jobs is amazing!
Thank you
Very nice restoration
Thank you 🙏🏼
That is a beautiful restoration mister good job well done
Thank you so much !
The copper looks lovely
Thank you!
Great lock, great job, great craftsman👍
Thank you so much! 🙏🏼
I Need one like this, for my lamborghini!
Great work ❤️
I wouldn’t trust it that much 😄😄 thank you!
Wow, wie schön 😃😃😃❤️
Merci 🫶☺️
very good
Thank you! 🙏🏼
Ha ha ha ha, you have brought a dead lock back to life. You are a very expert maker.
Thank you!
It looks great and you did a wonderful job restoring it as well!!!! I like the copper accents you did!!
I enjoyed your video so I gave it a Thumbs Up
Thank you !
Love how you don't use filler!!! I can't stand filler on restorations.
your lathe cutting tools are set a fraction too high, hence chatter.
Thank you, I will check that :)
Beautiful work.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Beautifully done, sir! I read your summery on this little find. Interesting. Hard to believe you got that working again. I definitely like the hot bluing better. Seems to be a deeper or more resilient than the cold bluing. Hot bluing looks better too. But, like you wrote, the smaller parts might not have held up to the hot bluing. I hope everything has smoothed out for you since your last post and hope you did well on your test. Looking forward to seeing what you’ll do next.
Thank you once again!
Yes I totally agree on the bluing, I also prefer hot bluing and it is more resilient than cold bluing.
I didn’t have the exam yet, still have time for studying 🙏🏼😂 Thank you for your support 🙏🏼
respect sehr gute Arbeit
Merci 🙏🏼
Amazing job
Thank you!
Great restoration work. Congratulations.
Thank you!
Bravo! quedo hermoso! gracias por el vídeo.
🙏🏼
The company Burg-Wächter, founded 1920, was named differently and produced locks named Burg from 1920 on. Burg means castle by the way.
I know, exactly 🙂
@@DrHutOfHandcraft yeah just for the others :) always interesting, but I saw in the meanwhile that you also dropped some information in the description
@@f.d.6675 Thank you 🙏🏼👍🏼
That lock looks like it was found on board U-1195, given all of the rust that was in it. You did a beautiful job in bringing it back to life, Herr Doktor.
😅😅 Thank you so much 🙏🏼
I have great respect for your work and how you go about it. I have a collection of your videos and they are great examples of how a true craftsman goes about his work. Please let us see your work more often.
Thank you and thank you for your support! I’ll do my best 🙏🏼
Excelente 👏👏
🙏🏼
Awesome job as always.
Maybe I ask, how do you decide what to cold blue and hot blue?
Thanks mate!
So for hot bluing you need heat of course. The problem is that certain materials like spring steel lose there properties when heated up, you will destroy the spring when heating it up. Also thin sheet metal will probably warp when heated up. Hot bluing like I did in the video is also not the method to go for big parts, since you can’t really heat them up evenly to the needed temperature. When heating big parts some areas might be hotter/cooler than others and you want have a good hot bluing finish.
So cold bluing is ideal for all those parts where you can’t use hot bluing. Also cold bluing works on materials other than steel (like stainless steel, brass, copper, zinc, bronze, aluminium), but of course you need other cold bluing liquids for that, except for zinc. Zinc plated screws for example can also get cold blued.
I will try to make a very detailed video on bluing also with different materials on my second channel soon.
Edit: hot bluing is also cheaper, you only need a torch and vegetable oil, which you can use over and over again. It’s also more economically friendly (if you use the oil over and over again) since there is no synthetic chemicals that need to be made into cold bluing liquid, no shipping to your workshop and no chemical waste afterwards.
@@DrHutOfHandcraft Thanks for the explanation, really appreciate that and makes perfect sense once you say it.
@@SturleyArt you're welcome :)
Sidor are a south American steel producer according to google and apparently no longer exist.
Okay interesting, thank you for the info. But the padlock was made by Burg Wächter, a german company found in 1920 and still existing today. Sidor probably is the name of the model here
Amazing restoration 👌
I just wonder how long it is to put a simple rivet ?
Thank you ! It takes a couple of minutes
Why can't you sandblast chrome plated items? Thank you in advance. I'm learning!
Thank you for your comment!
You theoretically could, but I don’t recommend it. Chrome is noxious and I don’t want to have chrome particles in the air I breathe, even though I have a suction system and wear a mask while sandblasting. Second: chrome is very hard, on the mohs scale it has 8,5. For comparison, diamond has 10. So sandblasting chrome would destroy my blasting compound pretty fast.
In this case there wasn’t any chrome left, but if I would have first used chrome stripper and then sandblasted.
@@DrHutOfHandcraft Oh my goodness THANK YOU ! I am a teacher by trade, but left the classroom after a long illness. I have always been an artist/maker and love to learn the details about this type of stuff. Your answer was so informative and I really appreciate the time you took to explain it clearly for me! YOU SIR, ROCK!
@@thecreativecardinalbyl.bet7012 You’re welcome :)
How do you decide between cold or hot bluing?
So for hot bluing you need heat of course. The problem is that certain materials like spring steel lose there properties when heated up, you will destroy the spring when heating it up. Also thin sheet metal will probably warp when heated up. Hot bluing like I did in the video is also not the method to go for big parts, since you can’t really heat them up evenly to the needed temperature. When heating big parts some areas might be hotter/cooler than others and you wont have a good hot bluing finish.
So cold bluing is ideal for all those parts where you can’t use hot bluing. Also cold bluing works on materials other than steel (like stainless steel, brass, copper, zinc, bronze, aluminium), but of course you need other cold bluing liquids for that, except for zinc. Zinc plated screws for example can also get cold blued with the most common cold bluing liquids.
I will try to make a very detailed video on bluing also with different materials on my second channel soon.
Edit: hot bluing is also cheaper, you only need a torch and vegetable oil, which you can use over and over again. It’s also more economically friendly (if you use the oil over and over again) since there is no synthetic chemicals that need to be made into cold bluing liquid, no shipping to your workshop and no chemical waste afterwards.
Ficou muito bom 👌👌👌.
Thank you!
Copper and black 😍 Now I think that you need to restore a vintage money box to use that lock with.
Interesting: I knew that "Schloss" means "castle (palace)" but I just learned that it means "lock" also. Since "Burg" also means "castle" then it's a Burg Schloss. That's not confusing at all 🤔😄
Good idea, I’ll remember that !
Yeah German can be confusing sometimes 😄
@@DrHutOfHandcraft 🙂 English is probably more confusing. As you likely know, in English a "lock" can be either a security device, or a snippet of someone's hair, or a system to allow boats to travel through a canal. And as a verb, you can "lock something up" and "lock something down" but those mean basically the same thing! 🤪 English is weird 😄
@@TheSockMonkeyGuy 😂😂
Ich habe so ein Schloss noch im Neuzustand. Das habe ich vor vielen Jahren in einer alten Eisenwarenhandlung gefunden, die zum Räumungsverkauf die ganzen Schränke bis in die hintersten Ecken ausgeräumt haben. Sehr interessant, so ein Schloss jetzt von innen zu sehen. Wieder ein schönes Video.👍👍👍👍👍
Sehr schön!
Vielen dank, freut mich dass es dir gefallen hat!
Brilliant job Dr. Hut 👏👏👏 !!! And a beautiful finish. How great to think that ruined old padlock is sorted and good to go for further, maybe lighter, duties in it's second lease of life. Top skills and workmanship dude 👍👍👍. Thank you for sharing 🙏🙏🙏. 😎
Thank you so much man, I really appreciate it! 🙏🏼
Quality restoration👍. Can you not sandblast chrome?🤔🤔
Thank you!
You can but I don’t recommend. Chrome is noxious and I don’t want to have chrome particles in the air, even though I have a suction system and wear a mask while sandblasting. Second chrome is very hard, on the mohs scale it has 8,5. For a comparison, diamond has 10. So sandblasting chrome would destroy my blasting compound pretty fast.
In this case there wasn’t any chrome left, but if I would have first used chrome stripper and then sandblasted.
Thank you for asking, and @drhutofhandcraft thank you for answering. I had the same question.
@@capers72424 you’re welcome :)
@@DrHutOfHandcraftanother question… why not dip in distilled water? I know you contaminate the batch of distilled water if you dip, so is that only a rule if you are dipping more than one item, or is there some other reason?
@DrHutOfHandcraft That's great, thanks for confirming... much appreciated 👍👍
What is the problem with sandblasting chrome?
Chrome is noxious and I don’t want to have chrome particles in the air, even though I have a suction system and wear a mask while sandblasting. Second chrome is very hard, on the mohs scale it has 8,5. For a comparison, diamond has 10. So sandblasting chrome would destroy my blasting compound pretty fast.
What happens if you dip it ínto distilled water?
Good question. The distilled water is waste and useless after dipping. We use distilled water after each step because we want to clean the part without leaving any contamination on the part so we don’t contaminate the following solution. If you dip you contaminate the distilled water, you can’t use it anymore because it has lost its purpose since it's not "distilled" anymore. So let's say you dip in a cup of distilled water to clean and then plate a part. When you want to plate the next part, dipping in the same cup of distilled water would be useless, since it's not distilled anymore and you then obviously would leave contamination on the part, which is what you actually want to avoid doing by using distilled water. So that cup of not anymore distilled water is waste. When dipping you just produce waste and it basically costs you money. In no lab in the world anyone would dip in distilled water, since it’s a waste of resources and just doesn’t make sense, you can just sprinkle distilled water over the parts and that does the job perfectly.
I made a video on my second channel (Dr. Hut’s Lab) where I wrote a little more about this and some other basics of plating in the pinned comment. It’s the brass plating video. Take a look if you like :)
thank you for the in-depth explanation! @@DrHutOfHandcraft
@@naxa_lite You’re welcome :)
12:03 Good job! Still not faster than Goku tho'
😂😂 Thanks mate 🙏🏼
Why would you need to strip chrome first before sand blasting it??
You don't have to but it is highly recommended. Chrome is noxious and I don’t want to have chrome particles in the air I breathe, even though I have a suction system and wear a mask while sandblasting. Second: chrome is very hard, on the mohs scale it has 8,5. For comparison, diamond has 10. So sandblasting chrome would destroy my blasting compound pretty fast.
In this case there wasn’t any chrome left, but if I would have first used chrome stripper and then sandblasted.
Ahh I see , that makes sense thanks for replying 👍. Love your work bud
@@leesmith2162you’re welcome :)
Hello there, what course should someone interested in your type of restoration undertake.
Hm I don’t really know, I didn’t take any courses. I would recommend just starting and learning by doing, that’s what I did at least
@@DrHutOfHandcraft
You have a good head😂😂😂
@@manasseskamau5327 😄
Why is hammering rivets always done with the ball part of a ball peen hammer rather than the flat part?
That is a great question 😄 I never thought about it and just did it like others. But I think because with the ball part you get more of a round ish shape + the force is concentrated on a smaller area like the tip of the ball rather than the shole flat part of the hammer. That makes the hammering of the rivets easier and faster.
Гламурненько.
🙏🏼
Nice work Can you send background piano music track name plz
Thank you!
It’s French Fuse - Rain Fuse.
The name of the music is always in the end of the video description.
The copper accents look great.
Glad you liked it, thank you :)
Click out of 1
2 is binding...
Hm?
Bonjour 👏👏👏👏 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟❤❤❤❤🏅👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
😄🙏🏼🙏🏼
It will be better to basically remanufa term the whole padlock. That whole thing is rotted away.
As you can see at the end of the video it works perfectly fine after the restoration :)
No podria derrotar a Superman asi de facil
🤔
👁️👁️👍
😄🙏🏼
Подскажите а зачем сначала кислота, а потом пескоструй, ведь только от пескоструя эффект был бы точно такой же?
I wrote it in the subtitles and the description: Because the parts were chrome plated and you don’t sandblast chrome.
Grape seed oil not Rape seed…
It was actually rapeseed oil.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapeseed
Am I no.1 😃😂
😄
All restoration videos are fake, I couldn’t find stuff in worse condition if I tried
Lol what exactly do you think is fake? 😄
Go to your local metal recycling facility and take a look, you will find a lot of stuff in even worse condition, I promise 🙂
Nice work Can you send background piano music track name plz
Thank you!
It’s French Fuse - Rain Fuse.
The name of the music is always in the end of the video description.