I have the Strike Industries ratchiting castle nut and end plate. It uses a set screw to hole it in place. It's very strong and I haven't had any issues.
Had high hopes for this. Unfortunately the backing plate does not fit over the BCM MK2 buffer tube. If I pushed any harder I would damage the threads. The bcm plate glides right over. Wasted $50
Other than this being just a product demo I am not sure why you would go to this solution. The PWS solutions looked better because you have the pin that you can depress to remove the castle nut, so, no friction and the pin looked sturdier than that little tooth. So, my question is why would you go to the Lantac system vs the PWS?
Okay thanks that clear things up, but I still have one more questions, the value of a system like this is the ability to remove and reattach the castle nut so you can change out extension tubes. Given the materials used do you have a feel for how many time you could remove and reattach the castle nut before that little clip fatigues? If you could do it at least a half dozen times that would probably be more than enough unless you were constantly modifying you rifle.
thought milspec was 36-40? these are 38-40 foot lbs...dont matter though...itll work, never come off, and most likely last longer than the rifle itself..
@@rickypickles2219 It is 35 to 39 ft pounds for the rifle length buffer tube and 38 to 42 foot pounds for the carbine castle nut... I had a brain fart, thanks for the heads up, I'll correct it..
@@hairydogstail no worries at all mang....idk if lantac advertises this product as milspec but the torque specs and materials are milspec standard...actually harder material....Id trust mine with my life for sure
@@rickypickles2219 If they are getting the proper torque then It is probably good to go..Hope it stays good and thanks for the heads up about my torque settings..
@@hairydogstail hey man idk shit about shit. Just remember some stuff because im a picky perfectionist with my building and everything has to be perfect or I flip out and re-buy everything
do you think the lan tec is better than the one you first talked about .? or am i just miss understanding you and this is the first one you were talking about ... thanks
The first one I reviewed is from PWS. I don’t think either is “better” than the other. They perform the same basic function. Kinda just boils down to aesthetic preference.
Hey man can you help me? i ordered a castle nut wrench and it doesn't fit my castle nut? Are there different sizes of castle nuts on rifles? my rifle is a Black creek labs 102 (formerly NEA)
Yea wish I saw this earlier I hate the way staked castle nuts.i seen a friend who used loctite and snapped his buffer tube trying to remove it.it was crazy neither of us saw that one coming. So yes stalking the only way,why this product looks awesome
I don't think that one is operationally superior to the other. They both do the same thing. Aside from that, it kinda boils down to aesthetics and/or price.
I think PWS came first, but PWS is pretty easily removed as well. Then you have ascend armory that no longer exist but they do still have the end plate that is pretty neat.
@@HarleyWood23 meaning that nobody buys them in enough quantity to make them out of stock anywhere; because its an objectively inferior product. if this product as the END ALL BE ALL FINAL SOLUTION of castle nuts/endplates, they'd be sold out everywhere all the time because their objective superiority would compel people to purchase it. The only reason you would think this is a "hidden gem" that nobody is buying is because your ignorant of how useful it actually is; which it isn't useful at all.
They flux in and out of stock all the time. I have six and sometimes I find them right away, sometimes not. You could have made a case that they’re overpriced, overproduced or under-marketed. But if they weren’t selling, they wouldn’t be in production for so many years, now with competitors also making variations. There’s obviously demand in the market.
@@HarleyWood23 I just saw this, I was being a smart-ass. I despise the ratcheting Castle nut. A punch and a hammer is all you need sonny, that there ratcheting Castle nut is gimmicky. No but seriously, I just feel more secure with a properly stick nut that I know will not come loose unless I want it to
I heard the pws system to remove you have to depress the detent pin on the ratcheting system to back out the castle nut . How is this the same removal method?
@@HarleyWood23 If that's correct can you help me understand to what "Mrgunsngear" is refering to then at the 3 min mark of this video? th-cam.com/video/hqn-TpYNZ-U/w-d-xo.html
No, they're not hard to install, but it you remove one, and then reinstall it, and the previous stake marks line up again, you can't use it on that receiver again. You need fresh metal for proper staking. If you take it off, then put it back on the same receiver it will almost always line back up, and you can't use it. That's how this "meme" started. That, and re-staking it every time you reinstall it becomes tiresome.
@@CharlieMikeNS No. Not at all. Rarely do they line up. That's completely wrong. Even so 1. How often are you changing an RE 2. you can buy a shit pot of end plates and castle nuts for super cheap This is a product looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist
@@MrKadidle51 If you put them back on the same receiver, they line up basically every time. I take it off occasionally. Yeah, I could buy a bunch of endplates, or I could buy this one endplate and castle nut for $30, and not worry about keeping a stash or staking at all. Maybe it is, or maybe you're a dinosaur who scoffs at anything that isn't the way your grandpappy did it.
@@MrKadidle51 Ok bro, I've literally done it multiple times, but tell me I'm talking out of my ass. And no, there are plenty of people like me who don't like fucking with staking, so for some people it is a solution. If you don't want to use it, cool, but for me and plenty of other people it makes life a little easier.
This product is simply not needed. First, use a tiny dab of grease on the rear of the tube threads, and spin the regular mil-spec castle nut into place (hand tight). Then, just add 1 drop of Blue Loctite in a square staking hole. Finally, torque the castle nut to 35-40ft-lbs. Been doing this for 30 years. I've never had a castle nut come loose. I've always been able to remove them with a wrench. And, I've never had to replace a castle nut. Staking simply isn't necessary.
Why stake it or get a special one like one little drip of blue Loctite and tighten your castle but to torque specs and your good to go , we use to stake them for a while then one day tried loctite and 10 years later and 50 AR’s or so never a problem idk I think this stuff is not near as important as people make it out to be
The biggest problem with loctite is the aluminum. True blue loctite is used on buttstock end plates and Magpul uses a thread locker on their grip screw in lieu of the lock nut. Many people DO use a thread locker on castle nut as well as cheap companies to have a clean fit/finish. The issue is removing for repair of failed components. The reason Milspec calls for 40lbs and staking is for reliability longevity. Heavy loads of automatic fire and all the other jostling around a rifle goes through in combat. A civilian could easily only tighten less than ftlbs torque or staking and be fine and possibly never shoot the castle nut loose. Chances of castle nut backing off slim but COULD happen. Chances after buffer tube backing out is virtually non existent. So no real physical harm is a threat. However that pesky detent spring could be lost thus ruining your range day until you get parts and then reinstall. The detent and spring only keep takedown from leaving the lower. The detent doesn’t prevent the pin from walking out but in case it does it won’t get lost.
What's wrong with staking? Are people regularly swapping out buffer tubes, or takedown pins that often?
It says to just loosen with wrench like normal, but does that damage the ratchet pin?
Wish I saw this sooner. Oh well, good reason to start another build!
I have the Strike Industries ratchiting castle nut and end plate. It uses a set screw to hole it in place. It's very strong and I haven't had any issues.
Paul Hughes
Nice. I hadn’t seen that one. Thanks for the info.
The one I have doesn't ratchet. It only has a setscrew.
I bought one. Just want to know how to take it off? Once input it on. Will it break off? If I take it off?
I may install this when I replace my bent buffer tube. I too don't like staking because of disassembly.
I don't stake the castle nut, so this looks like a great option. Thank you for sharing.
Had high hopes for this. Unfortunately the backing plate does not fit over the BCM MK2 buffer tube. If I pushed any harder I would damage the threads. The bcm plate glides right over. Wasted $50
It may be backordered on Lantac Site. You can find them in stock at AIM Surplus. Hope this helps👍
Other than this being just a product demo I am not sure why you would go to this solution. The PWS solutions looked better because you have the pin that you can depress to remove the castle nut, so, no friction and the pin looked sturdier than that little tooth. So, my question is why would you go to the Lantac system vs the PWS?
The pin on the PWS doesn’t depress. I have four of them. The choice for me comes down to aesthetics.
@@HarleyWood23 Oh I thought the pin depresses so you can loosen the castle nut to take it off.
@@MarkBadiait doesn’t, you just wrench it off
Okay thanks that clear things up, but I still have one more questions, the value of a system like this is the ability to remove and reattach the castle nut so you can change out extension tubes. Given the materials used do you have a feel for how many time you could remove and reattach the castle nut before that little clip fatigues? If you could do it at least a half dozen times that would probably be more than enough unless you were constantly modifying you rifle.
Like the simplicity off eggate with the qd. Looks good thanks for review of the new goodies
What buffer tube where you using man ? I just got one and it won’t thread properly into any of the buffer tubes I have ?
That’s weird. Mine is just on a standard mil-spec buffer tube. Perhaps call them and see what they advise.
@@HarleyWood23 So it fits on a mil spec buffer tube with no issues.?? Looking to maybe get one if it does.
Yep.
You need to torque the castle nut 38 to 42 ft pounds or you won't have the proper friction between the nut and end plate...
thought milspec was 36-40? these are 38-40 foot lbs...dont matter though...itll work, never come off, and most likely last longer than the rifle itself..
@@rickypickles2219 It is 35 to 39 ft pounds for the rifle length buffer tube and 38 to 42 foot pounds for the carbine castle nut... I had a brain fart, thanks for the heads up, I'll correct it..
@@hairydogstail no worries at all mang....idk if lantac advertises this product as milspec but the torque specs and materials are milspec standard...actually harder material....Id trust mine with my life for sure
@@rickypickles2219 If they are getting the proper torque then It is probably good to go..Hope it stays good and thanks for the heads up about my torque settings..
@@hairydogstail hey man idk shit about shit. Just remember some stuff because im a picky perfectionist with my building and everything has to be perfect or I flip out and re-buy everything
Staking is mil-spec for those that adhere to it. That's it.
Is it made of polymer? It kinda looks and sounds like plastic.
No. It’s made from 4140 steel.
Nice. Has a function and looks sweet too.
Suppressed Nation
Thanks bro
do you think the lan tec is better than the one you first talked about .? or am i just miss understanding you and this is the first one you were talking about ... thanks
The first one I reviewed is from PWS. I don’t think either is “better” than the other. They perform the same basic function. Kinda just boils down to aesthetic preference.
Here’s the first one...
th-cam.com/video/bwxkeslnX9k/w-d-xo.html
Hey man can you help me? i ordered a castle nut wrench and it doesn't fit my castle nut? Are there different sizes of castle nuts on rifles? my rifle is a Black creek labs 102 (formerly NEA)
Could be the wrench is out of spec, my dude
Someone got a wrench from a tac pac and it didn't fit my aero enh buffer kit castlenut. It happens.
Yea wish I saw this earlier I hate the way staked castle nuts.i seen a friend who used loctite and snapped his buffer tube trying to remove it.it was crazy neither of us saw that one coming. So yes stalking the only way,why this product looks awesome
What buis Are on your rifle?
Which is better? This one or the PWS?
I’ve reviewed both. Functionally they’re the same. Aesthetically I prefer the PWS. Totally personal preference though
durability the lantac for sure...lot of ppl have said the pws backs off...this one ive never heard or seen that
So which System is better? PWS or Lantac?
I don't think that one is operationally superior to the other. They both do the same thing. Aside from that, it kinda boils down to aesthetics and/or price.
I think PWS came first, but PWS is pretty easily removed as well. Then you have ascend armory that no longer exist but they do still have the end plate that is pretty neat.
Donde se puede conseguir para AR15 M4 E1
Idiots
And ,,,, this product is resistant ???
How do you take it off ?
I mention it in the video. Comes right back off with your armorer’s wrench.
I’ll never buy this garbage again after the leg snapped off mine hand tightening. I took it off and staked a regular castle nut on it.
really? I torqued mine and took it off a few times..never had a hint of it weakening...
These are in stock everywhere...gee wonder why? 😆
Meaning what?
@@HarleyWood23 meaning that nobody buys them in enough quantity to make them out of stock anywhere; because its an objectively inferior product.
if this product as the END ALL BE ALL FINAL SOLUTION of castle nuts/endplates, they'd be sold out everywhere all the time because their objective superiority would compel people to purchase it. The only reason you would think this is a "hidden gem" that nobody is buying is because your ignorant of how useful it actually is; which it isn't useful at all.
They flux in and out of stock all the time. I have six and sometimes I find them right away, sometimes not. You could have made a case that they’re overpriced, overproduced or under-marketed. But if they weren’t selling, they wouldn’t be in production for so many years, now with competitors also making variations. There’s obviously demand in the market.
@@HarleyWood23 I just saw this, I was being a smart-ass. I despise the ratcheting Castle nut.
A punch and a hammer is all you need sonny, that there ratcheting Castle nut is gimmicky. No but seriously, I just feel more secure with a properly stick nut that I know will not come loose unless I want it to
I like it.
More like youtube Demons! LoL
Same way to take it off?
Sergio Armas
Yes sir. Just loosen with armorer’s wrench
Ok thanks for your fast reply!
I heard the pws system to remove you have to depress the detent pin on the ratcheting system to back out the castle nut . How is this the same removal method?
The detention does not depress.
@@HarleyWood23 If that's correct can you help me understand to what "Mrgunsngear" is refering to then at the 3 min mark of this video? th-cam.com/video/hqn-TpYNZ-U/w-d-xo.html
SLR Handguard?
Chris Hlentzas
Yep. I have a couple of them
@@HarleyWood23 Just got my first and love it. Pricey but great craftsmenship!
Interesting!!
Me likey.
This design looks a little better than Pws. I have a couple of Pws ones
Yeah. I have 4 of theirs too
Worships TH-cam; obey and bow for money and likes, subject.
No thanks. Staked castle nuts are not hard to remove. Not sure how this meme started...
No, they're not hard to install, but it you remove one, and then reinstall it, and the previous stake marks line up again, you can't use it on that receiver again. You need fresh metal for proper staking. If you take it off, then put it back on the same receiver it will almost always line back up, and you can't use it. That's how this "meme" started. That, and re-staking it every time you reinstall it becomes tiresome.
@@CharlieMikeNS No. Not at all. Rarely do they line up. That's completely wrong. Even so
1. How often are you changing an RE
2. you can buy a shit pot of end plates and castle nuts for super cheap
This is a product looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist
@@MrKadidle51 If you put them back on the same receiver, they line up basically every time. I take it off occasionally. Yeah, I could buy a bunch of endplates, or I could buy this one endplate and castle nut for $30, and not worry about keeping a stash or staking at all. Maybe it is, or maybe you're a dinosaur who scoffs at anything that isn't the way your grandpappy did it.
@@CharlieMikeNS no they dont, you're just talking out of your ass lol. And as I said before. Solution looking for a problem that does not exist.
@@MrKadidle51 Ok bro, I've literally done it multiple times, but tell me I'm talking out of my ass. And no, there are plenty of people like me who don't like fucking with staking, so for some people it is a solution. If you don't want to use it, cool, but for me and plenty of other people it makes life a little easier.
This product is simply not needed. First, use a tiny dab of grease on the rear of the tube threads, and spin the regular mil-spec castle nut into place (hand tight). Then, just add 1 drop of Blue Loctite in a square staking hole. Finally, torque the castle nut to 35-40ft-lbs. Been doing this for 30 years.
I've never had a castle nut come loose. I've always been able to remove them with a wrench. And, I've never had to replace a castle nut. Staking simply isn't necessary.
Why stake it or get a special one like one little drip of blue Loctite and tighten your castle but to torque specs and your good to go , we use to stake them for a while then one day tried loctite and 10 years later and 50 AR’s or so never a problem idk I think this stuff is not near as important as people make it out to be
you think this will work with a full USGI stock? this product
This is completely wrong. DO NOT LOCTITE YOUR RECEIVER EXTENSION. STAKE YOUR CASTLE NUTS. Don't listen to this uncle cletus.
@@ericanderson524 why not both???
The biggest problem with loctite is the aluminum. True blue loctite is used on buttstock end plates and Magpul uses a thread locker on their grip screw in lieu of the lock nut. Many people DO use a thread locker on castle nut as well as cheap companies to have a clean fit/finish. The issue is removing for repair of failed components.
The reason Milspec calls for 40lbs and staking is for reliability longevity. Heavy loads of automatic fire and all the other jostling around a rifle goes through in combat. A civilian could easily only tighten less than ftlbs torque or staking and be fine and possibly never shoot the castle nut loose. Chances of castle nut backing off slim but COULD happen. Chances after buffer tube backing out is virtually non existent. So no real physical harm is a threat. However that pesky detent spring could be lost thus ruining your range day until you get parts and then reinstall. The detent and spring only keep takedown from leaving the lower. The detent doesn’t prevent the pin from walking out but in case it does it won’t get lost.