Everybody needs to chill about the chips in the cylinder. 1. The compressed air blows a lot of the chips out 2. If you are really worried, remove the spark plug and crank the engine over. The piston will push the remaining chips out of the spark plug hole. 3. The hardness of the chips is less than that of the cylinder walls, valves, and piston rings, as the cylinder walls are sleeved with a harder material, the rings are made from cast iron, and the valves are made from super hardened steel. The chips won't scratch them up. The valve seat is also a pressed-in harder piece of steel. 4. Engines are tough machines and will not be subdued by a few chips.
I have a question if I buy a Saturn 2006 and the guy said he strip the spark plug would it be okay a good idea to buy it he's selling it for $900 would that be okay is anything wrong with the motor or anything if I drive it from his about 40 miles to my home
A stripped sparkplug hole can be a big deal. It can cause compression loss and cause the engine to misfire. If it is running ok then it might be worth it. What is the KBB value?? Repairing a stripped sparkplug hole as I do in this video is not for the faint of heart, and many shops wont even touch it because doing it wrong means a BIG job in repairing / replacing the cylinder head.
Thanks for putting this video together. I had to replace a spark plug (re-thread it, etc.) in my daughter's Mazda Tribute. Watching this process made it much clearer what to do... glad to say I got it done and the car runs great. Thanks again!
A couple of suggestions: 1) Make sure the piston is not at TDC when you do this otherwise you may run the tap into the piston. 2) Contrary to the directions that come with the product, I would not use RTV sealant. That's really a rubber-based gasket sealant. I would use Loctite Red instead which gives you the added advantage of locking the coil in the head so it won't be removed when you take out the spark plug which is often a problem people report when they use RTV. RTV simply makes no sense to me. 3) Use Anti-Seize on the plug threads. That will also help to make sure the coil isn't removed with the plug but you should always use it anyway when installing spark plugs. In fact, I would never even think of installing spark plugs with coating the threads with Anti-Seize, especially with aluminum heads. Don't remove spark plugs from an aluminum head when the engine is hot. When it's hot, both the head and the spark plug metal is expanded, making the plug very tight. If you remove the plug when the engine is hot, there's a good chance you will rip the threads right out of the head. One more thing: You can't blow the metal shavings out of the cylinder with compressed air as I'm sure you found out. The air nozzle blocks the way and you are really just blowing the shavings to the walls of the cylinder. Instead of oil, coat the tap with grease. Most of the shavings will then stick to the grease. Tap slowly, going back and forth and remove the tap frequently and clean the scraps off it. For any scraps still left in the cylinder, the way to get them out is with vacuum. You can get very thin pencil-like vacuum attachments for a Shop-Vac or similar vacuum machine. In fact, they sell little assortment kits of tiny vacuum attachments on Amazon for getting into tiny places.
+Bob Miller I feel as though I should make a few comments to this post. Many of the things you say do not make much sense to me and I get the sense that you may not have even done this before. For point 1, yes you're right, but honestly, it wouldn't be a big deal. You would feel the tap bottom out and stop, and even if you marked up the piston, this will in no way hurt the engines performance. People get so anal about these things, but honestly it wouldn't matter in the slightest. Engines are tough and will not be subdued by scratched pistons. For your point 2, red loctite is NOT a good idea. Do you know how you remove something that has loctite on it? You heat it up. The heat causes the loctite to soften and let you get the two parts apart. When running the engine, the spark plug gets the very hot. The loctite would certainly fail. That is why you need to use HIGH TEMP RTV. Just because you don't understand it, doesn't mean you're correct and the manufacturer of the product is wrong (Really man? Think about that for a second. You are suggesting that you know better than the manufacturer of the product. What is it like to know everything??). Point 3 is a good point. Antiseize would be a good idea. YES, you can absolutely blow out all the shavings with compressed air. The nozzle does NOT get in the way, (again, have you done this before?) especially on heads with the big spark plug tubes. I really am not a big fan of the grease idea. And if you're going to get a small vacuum, why even do the grease? Why not just vacuum out the chips? Anyway, I wanted to make this comment to deter people from believing your comment as you are speaking so very confidently in your ignorance.
If you cover the tap with axle grease, it will catch all your chips. i had to clean it off twice and reapply the grease but it kept all the shavings from falling in the motor.
A few pieces still fell in but I put grease on the locking side of a zip tie and picked them up like that. Besides, a few small pieces of aluminum won't hurt your engine. They will blow right out.
Remember that thing called a pipe cleaner? Rarely see them anywhere but they are available easily. I bet you could take one(or two) at least 12" long or longer ,coat it with axle grease, and give it a little spiral twist and push it in to grab it all.
@@hyperwebbing those are very hard to find, unless you go to a Cigar store, but I found some at a Dollar store, they are used for kids arts and crafts stuff and hobbies .
@@Texaca so you know that they aren't just rarely available like I remember when I was a kid via you go to a store and you can see pipe cleaners there for sale and you don't see me right but I do run across them certain places but yeah it's not your typical department store or your typical home consumables supplier but you know hey we got the internet now so I got to do is just go on eBay or someplace like that and just order some
For those worried about shavings: 1) put axle grease on the thread tool to catch most of the shavings; 2) get a vacuum cleaner and some sort of adapter (or tape it) so you can stick a hose/tube down into cylinder head and vacuum out as much shavings as possible, then use compressed air to blow out anything left over.
Used one of these kits on my snow blower's engine after fubaring the sparkplug threads. Worked great. Now I always use the rubber tube trick when threading plugs into aluminum heads.
Thanks for the video. I was confident I could execute the job from what auto mechanic friends have told me, but its always better to watch a job be done first. There are always little tricks to making a job like this easier.
+Gregory Raymer Jr I did not grind the tap down, I ended up getting a longer one. I was doing a Triton V8 with Aluminum heads. I used grease instead of oil and that trapped a LOT of the chips. The rest were easily removed with an extension I rigged on a shop vac and a long wire with a small bit of greasy rag pinched in it. My insert worked perfectly, but I had to get a shorter spark plug. Must have inserted it a bit too low.
Couple of things. Use red locktite instead of rtv. A t handle is easier than a ratchet as both hands can be used and minimizes side load. Every half turn back up a quarter turn to break large chips. This is due to the aggressive cutting portion of tool. It would be easier to remove valve cover than to work with it in place.
Just had to do this for my car. Just wanted to say thank you for the video its exactly what we needed! I got my tap tool and the silicone stuff from O'Riellys for all those wondering. -Nick
Some extra tips: RTV silicone will not stick to oil, so be sure to clean the threads with brake parts cleaner or equivalent. Make certain that the piston is down far enough so as not to damage it. Fill the cylinder with shaving cream. The shaving cream will catch and suspend the shavings. Then vacuum the cylinder afterward, with a shop vacuum.
Using anti-seize compound, makes the spark plugs screw in smoothly. If it isn't smooth, you will know immediately that you are beginning to cross thread. Also, always use a torque wrench to spec. when tightening the spark plugs. It sounds like being over cautious until you strip the aluminum head and then you know the effort was worth it. If you do that always, you won't need this video.
Did this a couple of times on my 99 Eclipse, cylinder #2. The sparkplug just blew off while I was downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. My mechanic was busy fixing a few other cars and he just told me what to do since it would be a few days (if not more than a week) before he can fix mine (he's on call, appointment) as he was rebuilding an engine at that time. I also had to grind the butt end to fit my socket. I then used double sided tape on a thin rod to take out all the shavings that fell inside.
Can also add never seize to plug threads before screwing insert in. Helps plug release when you’ve gotten the sleeve to depth. I’ve seen some use red locktite instead of silicone based product for sleeve itself then wait 24 hours.
I used the OEM kit where the insert has a flange instead of teeth. The flange stops the insert at the “right” depth. However, when measuring from the well opening down to the spark plug terminal, it sticks out about 1/32” further than the neighboring plugs that didn’t need re threaded. After the job when I turn on the engine I hear a soft tapping and now the festering thought of the electrodes not deep enough into the cylinder is making me second guess my work.
nice video brother, don't listen to that guy about the grease, he's actually the one who is wrong, you did the repair correct and the air hose does work just make sure that pressure is really good, my only problem with this repair is that they tend to only be good for 2 maybe 3 months before it blows out again, to actually do it right you have to use a time-sert kit that runs about $250-$300, it actually allows you to tap a brand new holeand then put the insert in which is then held in with a pin, lasts forever
Actually , using a thick grease, i.e. wheel bearing grease is the BEST way to 'retain' the shrapnel to the cutting tool. Oil is better than nothing, but it just isn't sticky enough.
Just did this repair myself today. My spark plug blew out of my cylinder head on my way to work. (Luckily it was right down the road) Was able to get towed by a local friend back home (didn’t want to run it on three cylinders) Installation was flawless. Tips for everyone: As addressed you’ll have to grind down the 19mm tap, was able to hammer a 17mm socket on there and get it down in my spark plug tube. I used axle grease to catch metal shavings (worked) and ended up using my shop vac to suck the exhausting shavings out of the cylinder head. Started it up with the plug out aswell and it blew everything out. Used red rtv on the insert and make sure it’s completely flush with the beginning of the hole. The driver tool I gave it about a good three or four taps with a hammer and it was golden. Little tip with the driver (use old shirt cloth and stuff it around the driver and the socket that fits around it) and it worked like a charm. Took it around the block and it ran perfectly. Will report back later on how it holds up but thankful I finally have threads
In your opinion would this fix a melting ignition coil also? 2009 civic melted a coil and the spark plug shot out damaging the threading as well. Replaced both and it happened again. So wondering if it's likely an electrical problem causing the melted coil, or engine heat that passed through the spark plug and damaged threading? Will be buying the kit regardless along with new coil and spark plug, then ignition wires and ECM tested after installation.
@Krischanzzz LOL I just went and got the whole engine replaced in August since it needed a cylinder head. Who knows what other problems were in the 215k mile engine.
@Krischanzzz Yeah, 3k but I bounced back. It was the best decision considering how expensive a newer car is. I use it to make money as well. Deliveries, apps, UPS peak season etc.
tried it everything worked great also had to grind the tap but the rtv was my only problem the plug kept getting stuck on the insert so i couldnt take the plug out with out the insert even after 24 hours i ended up you jb weld still rated to 600F so i hope it should be fine
steel threaded inserts are used in performance applications all the time because they offer better holding power and decrease wear compared to aluminum alone, just be sure the spark plug is held at the exact same place in the engine. manufacters dont do it because its usually too expensive. now he can change sparkplugs in that hole without worry of stripping. the one downside is that inserts can insulate spark plugs causing them to run a little hotter, but this is really only a problem for high performance applications
Wow this is a great video! Question... so there is no need to remove manifold intake, or gasket and valve covers to rethread?? Does the manifold intake have to be removed if this were done on cylinder 4 (the front left) ‘07 Acura MDX? This doesn’t seem as dramatic as some mechanics are acting.
I was nervous about how when I was tapping it, it was moving too much side to side. So I cut a piece of pvc pipe to go around the extension I was using to keep it more centered when turning. Worked great btw I recommend if anyone is nervous about that. I just finished red lock tight’n it now we wait.
In fact, the instructions call for high temp thread sealant so Permatex or JB Weld high temp is fine. RTV silicone is great as a gasget maker and might do the trick but I prefer following the instructions closely.
Quick suggestion its better and easier if u drill out the old damage threads and make it flush before using the tap. You get better results. I just did it on my bike and on my boat. With great success
Hey man, I screwed in the spark plug with the new insert, but if I try to take the plug out the insert comes with it. Should I let the rtv dry for a little then try to get the plug out?
Brennen Catt Hmm... First make sure the threaded sleeve is flush with the cylinder head (meaning, make sure you screwed it in enough) What stops the threads from coming out is that knurled surface going into the head as you screw it in. If you have screwed it in sufficiently (Don't screw it in TOO much though!), I would try to loosen the plug with a hard quick jerking motion to see if you can break the plug free from the threads without moving them.
Brennen Catt I have the same problem, When I take the spark plug out, the new insert comes out with it. I have tried lubricating the spark plug threads but it still does not work. When I do take the spark plug out the insert is difficult to remove from the spark plug.
@@png1972 Sounds like you did not clean the newly cut threads with break cleaner, so the locktite etc did not bond with the head. New sleeve should not move after it cures
compressed air does not take the metal filings out.. Start the engine up without the spark plug and the piston will throw all the metal filings out the hole.. Just don't run it for long.. Just make sure the engine runs for 2 seconds.
I used red grease on the tap to catch most of the shavings. I then put an ounce of oil in the cylinder to gather any stragglers, and used an oil extractor to remove the oil from the cylinder.
My 2001 CR-V Spark plugs were very tight on the way out. Looks like a Honda issue! Came out 1/4 turn at a time with lube. I will try and tap the threads before new plugs go in.
What would you recommend, my front motor mount, the one thats right in front of the front radiator, the bolt holes is stripped... what method or what would you recommend to do to fix that? Their is no space at all to fit any tool in their and I dont want to bring the engine down to fix that.... Just any suggestions or tip would be great.
So for some reason all of the cheap taps have to be ground down. Struggling right now to find one that just has a place for a ratchet fitting so that I don't need a socket!
Why did you cut out at 2:29? You were screwing down, then just pulled it out. So do you go all the way in and then back out? Or do you screw all the way in and just pull out? Kinda critical piece to cut out..
+Aaron B I suggest reading up on how to tap threads. I cut it out because it was simply me running down the tap. When you tap threads in anything, you go all the way down, and then unscrew the tap from the newly cut threads. You wouldn't be able to just pull it straight out as it is threaded into the head. When it comes to TH-cam you only want to keep footage that is absolutely necessary and interesting, otherwise the video runs too long and people lose interest half way through.
Hello I have question I have bad spark plug thread hole diameter is 15.8 mm what insert size you thing I need to make it fit with inside measure 14mm*1.25mm I confused about insert outer diameter
The way the insert works is it will accept a 14 x 1.25 spark plug, and its outer diameter will dig into the head, making the hole in the head bigger to accept the insert as you screw it in. Some other kits, such as helicoil, require you to first drill the hole bigger and THEN put in the insert.
Just bought a 96 civic looks like the previous owner tried to do this but the sleeve came out with the spark plug so the spark plug looks bigger than other spark plugs, do you think if I just bought the kit and put a new sleeve over it that it would work?
Might work, it is hard to say. You would have to hope that the thread size and pitch is the same between what the previous owner did, and what you bought. I would run a tap through it first. (The size would be what ever the bigger sparkplug is)
use a "glob" of vaseline on the tap. that will catch the majority of the chips. you can also use a piece of cotton rope (small diameter), coat it with grease and push it down in the cylinder. after the tapping. you can pull the rope out. it will put even more chips with it. but it is hard to do with recessed plugs like this but it is possible.
I brought a car with this problem its got a wrecked coil pack funny thing is the coil was replaced where the broblem was where do I get these thread repare kits from.
Please help, new to cars, at 1:16 what kind of oil do I need for lubrication, I get it a few people will laugh at me but seriously need help someone please let me know what type/kind of oil and or grease
OK Matt, I finally have the insert installed on my 97 Corolla. But the car has been sitting idle in my driveay for 6 months. Should I try to pre-lubricate the engine before cranking it? If so, what would be the best way to do that?
Chris Brennan Glad to hear it! It should be okay, but if you're really worried, just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it for a little bit. The engine wont start with the fuel pump disabled, but it will still pump oil through the engine.
How much did the kit cost? The previous owner of my ram 50 either over tightened or never changed the plugs. All the plugs broke but i was able to get most of them out except for one. I ended up having to take the whole head off and am now trying to figure out how to get it out and am planning to buy one of these kits
If memory serves, I believe the kit was around 40 bucks. Since you already have the head off the engine, it might be worth taking it to a machine shop and asking them to do it. Just a thought. Good luck!
Hey Matt When you are screwing in the new threads with the teeth, are the teeth part screwed down into the hole an then expanded, or do they just go down flush on top of hole itself? Seems to me if they are on top of the hole what do they bite into when you use the punch to expand them?
Tracy Suttles The threaded insert goes all the way into the hole until the top of the insert (with the knurled surface) is flush with the top of the hole. Meaning, none of the threaded insert is sticking out at all. Then the hammer tool expands the knurled part to bite into the head. Hope that clears things up!
Will this work on my 2001 town car? This will be my second time replacing the ignition coil because of the plug. The plug was stripped and pushed in at the bottom.
how do i know if my threads on the head are cross threaded ? would i hear hissing blowing air coming out from that spark plug when my engine is running? any wear on the threads of the spark plug? my threads look fine on my plugs but i hear some hissing. thanks
I got this problem with 07 chevy impala, mine is cylinder 1 which is near the alternator. all the rest of my cylinders are fine spark plug screw in fine, but cylinder 1 was a struggle it went in a few turns,"(spark plug)", but after that it became hard to screw all the way in. I was thinking either piece of the old plug is stuck in the cylinder or just the cylinder head it self is script or something, all I know is something is wrong?
It sounds like the threads are damaged to the point where they do not work properly anymore. You may be able to get away with just running a tap through them without doing this thread insert business. Buy the appropriate tap and give it a go.
A tap is used to cut threads in a hole. It can also be used to repair damaged threads, (provided the threads haven't been stripped out completely) by re-cutting them. You would most likely need to order the tap online as it isn't a size that is likely to be found at a hardware store. Do some research first on how to use taps though and what they are.
do you have to lubricate the tap with somthing or you can just do it bear? because i don't have no oil or anything.Can you use something else other than oil to lubricate the tap?
So i started this project a couple weeks ago seemed simple enough so didnt watch the video im still seeping out a little air could this be because i didnt tap it in after i tighten it in or is it because im just not going in far enough if you think its because im not going in far enough i tighten as far as i can get it without feeling like im gonna over do it im a pretty big guy so i dont want to over tighten it to the point of stripping that maybe im completely out of the ball park this is a new project to me
ok so i have the thread kit and i have a 98 Honda civic ex coupe.but the part that you attach to socket to rethread the spark plug hole doesn't fit the 5/8 socket.
I was ready to re-thread the spark plug hole, but saw that the socket was too big to fit in. Leaving now to find another socket or I will have to grind the tap.
When plug is stuck back it up half turn and continue (this worked for me 2 days ago on Corolla!). If the plug still getting stuck spray Gumout cab cleaner, kerosene or charcoal lighter fluid into the well. This will clean up the threads from carbon accumulation.
Hi I know this video was a couple years ago but I have a question. How did you remove the spark plug to put the punch tool in without removing the insert?
Its always one important part......when you threaded the insert onto the spark plug, did you also tap it with the spark plug OR did you remove the plug and then tap the piece? Your video editing did not show this detail
Dont over tighten the spark plugs so the threads don't come out when you take out the spark plug again. If it comes out again you'll have to take out the cylinder head sadly
Since the plug has a flange at the top of the threads, how is it possible to overtighten it? I'm wondering why you had to keep backcing out the plug to see if the insert was flush with the top. I would think you would keep turning until the flange prevented it from going down further. I'm asking because the plug holes on my '97 Corolla are 6 inches below the head, so I'm in the same boat you were. :-)
Well there isn't really a "flange." The insert is just a threaded sleeve with a knurled section. The whole sleeve PLUS the knurled section gets threaded into the cylinder head.. If you just keep tightening, the insert could potentially keep pushing its way into the cylinder. Very bad! What you want is to thread it in until the insert is flush with the top of the cylinder head (meaning the knurled part of the sleeve is not visible) then hit it with the ramming tool. Hope that makes sense! This is a very delicate procedure.
MattsMotorz I meant that the plug itself has a flange at the top of the threads. So if I place the plug inside the insert before screwing it into the head, once the top of the insert is flush with the top of the head, I would think the flange on the plug will run into the top of the head and prevent me from tightening any further. I'm hoping that's the case because it's hard for me to tell when looking down a 6" hole. Or is the flange not wide enough to prevent that from happening?
Chris Brennan your right chris in what your saying. the flange on the plug will only seat down till it hits the head not going any furthor than that. good call crhis. buddy wasent getting what you were trying to say.
I was having an issue about the 19mm not fitting in my cylinder too. I was wondering if it was safe to grind down to fit a 17mm and since you did it, it must be. Thanks for the vid!
Just finished my 1zzfe head. I used a belt sander and was able to get a perfect hex. Props to your video. Again, really saved the day. I was stuck without a car for 2 weeks.
Scary business... frankly that kind of thing is one of my worst nightmares. On another note my future brother in law has a 4 cylinder Ranger thats radiator cracked, he kept putting water in it which made the head gasket rust through, water poured into his oil, the piston skirts scored the crap out of the cylinders. I changed the head gasket hoping that'd be enough to keep it going, but after I changed it I did a compression test, the scored cylinders only had 45 PSI. I also noted a light crack in the cylinder head around one of the spark plug holes. I'm used to working on my own cars, so it wasn't as frustrating to test for compression to find she's dead. He's not quite as thrilled though lol. I don't know how long you plan on making TH-cam videos, but I really enjoy them personally. However long you plan on making videos I'll keep watching!
Am sorry my English not that perfect but my mechanic tried but it fall inside maybe he tap it to much and when I bought the car I think they used helicoil on but you think I can try again I meant on the link can I try this one this time
Ohhh I think I understand. First thing would be to get that insert out of there! He must have made the hole too big in the head. I do not know for certain, but I don't think another insert will work, as the hole may be too big. But I am not 100%. It is worth a try though!
MattsMotorz I measure it the hole diameter is 15.8 *1.25 and the link from amazon is he answer by tell me the outer diameter for the insert tap is 15.5 so you think it will be perfect
masses yozd If the outer diameter of the insert is 15.5 and the outer diameter of the hole in the head is 15.8, then that means the hole in the head is larger than the insert, meaning it will fall right through most likely. (its only 4 bucks so its worth a try but it doesn't look good IMO) Might be time for a new head.
My coil spark plug exploded while in my engine and came out with that large insert that's in that package now you notice there's not a larger size.. once you have to replace that insert you can't get a bigger size
Everybody needs to chill about the chips in the cylinder.
1. The compressed air blows a lot of the chips out
2. If you are really worried, remove the spark plug and crank the engine over. The piston will push the remaining chips out of the spark plug hole.
3. The hardness of the chips is less than that of the cylinder walls, valves, and piston rings, as the cylinder walls are sleeved with a harder material, the rings are made from cast iron, and the valves are made from super hardened steel. The chips won't scratch them up. The valve seat is also a pressed-in harder piece of steel.
4. Engines are tough machines and will not be subdued by a few chips.
I have a question if I buy a Saturn 2006 and the guy said he strip the spark plug would it be okay a good idea to buy it he's selling it for $900 would that be okay is anything wrong with the motor or anything if I drive it from his about 40 miles to my home
A stripped sparkplug hole can be a big deal. It can cause compression loss and cause the engine to misfire. If it is running ok then it might be worth it. What is the KBB value?? Repairing a stripped sparkplug hole as I do in this video is not for the faint of heart, and many shops wont even touch it because doing it wrong means a BIG job in repairing / replacing the cylinder head.
MattsMotorz
you don't use oil, but grease. Grease will retain much more metal shavings and minimize damage to the internals of the engine...
Abolitionists
alum chips are not an issue and normally blow out on start up
Thanks for putting this video together. I had to replace a spark plug (re-thread it, etc.) in my daughter's Mazda Tribute. Watching this process made it much clearer what to do... glad to say I got it done and the car runs great. Thanks again!
+CopperPingu Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for making an informative video that’s not 30 minutes long.
A couple of suggestions: 1) Make sure the piston is not at TDC when you do this otherwise you may run the tap into the piston. 2) Contrary to the directions that come with the product, I would not use RTV sealant. That's really a rubber-based gasket sealant. I would use Loctite Red instead which gives you the added advantage of locking the coil in the head so it won't be removed when you take out the spark plug which is often a problem people report when they use RTV. RTV simply makes no sense to me. 3) Use Anti-Seize on the plug threads. That will also help to make sure the coil isn't removed with the plug but you should always use it anyway when installing spark plugs. In fact, I would never even think of installing spark plugs with coating the threads with Anti-Seize, especially with aluminum heads.
Don't remove spark plugs from an aluminum head when the engine is hot. When it's hot, both the head and the spark plug metal is expanded, making the plug very tight. If you remove the plug when the engine is hot, there's a good chance you will rip the threads right out of the head.
One more thing: You can't blow the metal shavings out of the cylinder with compressed air as I'm sure you found out. The air nozzle blocks the way and you are really just blowing the shavings to the walls of the cylinder. Instead of oil, coat the tap with grease. Most of the shavings will then stick to the grease. Tap slowly, going back and forth and remove the tap frequently and clean the scraps off it. For any scraps still left in the cylinder, the way to get them out is with vacuum. You can get very thin pencil-like vacuum attachments for a Shop-Vac or similar vacuum machine. In fact, they sell little assortment kits of tiny vacuum attachments on Amazon for getting into tiny places.
+Bob Miller I feel as though I should make a few comments to this post. Many of the things you say do not make much sense to me and I get the sense that you may not have even done this before. For point 1, yes you're right, but honestly, it wouldn't be a big deal. You would feel the tap bottom out and stop, and even if you marked up the piston, this will in no way hurt the engines performance. People get so anal about these things, but honestly it wouldn't matter in the slightest. Engines are tough and will not be subdued by scratched pistons.
For your point 2, red loctite is NOT a good idea. Do you know how you remove something that has loctite on it? You heat it up. The heat causes the loctite to soften and let you get the two parts apart. When running the engine, the spark plug gets the very hot. The loctite would certainly fail. That is why you need to use HIGH TEMP RTV. Just because you don't understand it, doesn't mean you're correct and the manufacturer of the product is wrong (Really man? Think about that for a second. You are suggesting that you know better than the manufacturer of the product. What is it like to know everything??).
Point 3 is a good point. Antiseize would be a good idea.
YES, you can absolutely blow out all the shavings with compressed air. The nozzle does NOT get in the way, (again, have you done this before?) especially on heads with the big spark plug tubes. I really am not a big fan of the grease idea. And if you're going to get a small vacuum, why even do the grease? Why not just vacuum out the chips?
Anyway, I wanted to make this comment to deter people from believing your comment as you are speaking so very confidently in your ignorance.
If you cover the tap with axle grease, it will catch all your chips. i had to clean it off twice and reapply the grease but it kept all the shavings from falling in the motor.
Not a bad idea!!
A few pieces still fell in but I put grease on the locking side of a zip tie and picked them up like that. Besides, a few small pieces of aluminum won't hurt your engine. They will blow right out.
Remember that thing called a pipe cleaner? Rarely see them anywhere but they are available easily. I bet you could take one(or two) at least 12" long or longer ,coat it with axle grease, and give it a little spiral twist and push it in to grab it all.
@@hyperwebbing those are very hard to find, unless you go to a Cigar store, but I found some at a Dollar store, they are used for kids arts and crafts stuff and hobbies .
@@Texaca so you know that they aren't just rarely available like I remember when I was a kid via you go to a store and you can see pipe cleaners there for sale and you don't see me right but I do run across them certain places but yeah it's not your typical department store or your typical home consumables supplier but you know hey we got the internet now so I got to do is just go on eBay or someplace like that and just order some
For those worried about shavings: 1) put axle grease on the thread tool to catch most of the shavings; 2) get a vacuum cleaner and some sort of adapter (or tape it) so you can stick a hose/tube down into cylinder head and vacuum out as much shavings as possible, then use compressed air to blow out anything left over.
Yes use grease- compared to oil, the thickness of grease will catch more of the shavings.....
Just turn engine on with spark plug out it'll do the dirty work itself
Used one of these kits on my snow blower's engine after fubaring the sparkplug threads. Worked great. Now I always use the rubber tube trick when threading plugs into aluminum heads.
I tend to run the plug backwards until i feel it "seat" in the hole, then proceed to run it in with a t-bar tool.
Thanks for the video. I was confident I could execute the job from what auto mechanic friends have told me, but its always better to watch a job be done first.
There are always little tricks to making a job like this easier.
I agree
+Gregory Raymer Jr I did not grind the tap down, I ended up getting a longer one. I was doing a Triton V8 with Aluminum heads. I used grease instead of oil and that trapped a LOT of the chips. The rest were easily removed with an extension I rigged on a shop vac and a long wire with a small bit of greasy rag pinched in it. My insert worked perfectly, but I had to get a shorter spark plug. Must have inserted it a bit too low.
Okay
Couple of things. Use red locktite instead of rtv. A t handle is easier than a ratchet as both hands can be used and minimizes side load. Every half turn back up a quarter turn to break large chips. This is due to the aggressive cutting portion of tool. It would be easier to remove valve cover than to work with it in place.
Just had to do this for my car. Just wanted to say thank you for the video its exactly what we needed!
I got my tap tool and the silicone stuff from O'Riellys for all those wondering.
-Nick
I feel so screwed 9300 ft up on a mountain going to attempt this tomorrow... it's COLD!! wish me luck home slice. Appreciate the vid.
Hope this worked and your not froze to death on that mountain.
@@Robinhood179 I got it fixed! right before another big snow storm with no time to spare!
@@FreedomGrower haha awesome! I need to do this repair eventually but im fortunate enough to have other vehicles and a warm home lol
Some extra tips: RTV silicone will not stick to oil, so be sure to clean the threads with brake parts cleaner or equivalent. Make certain that the piston is down far enough so as not to damage it. Fill the cylinder with shaving cream. The shaving cream will catch and suspend the shavings. Then vacuum the cylinder afterward, with a shop vacuum.
Thank you for the step by step. RIP magnet.
Thank you for making a video that did make me feel better about my problem and job ahead! Hope is priceless 🙏
Same. I've been dreading and dreaming all night about my auto problems and this video helped give me some hope. I can do this!
Using anti-seize compound, makes the spark plugs screw in smoothly. If it isn't smooth, you will know immediately that you are beginning to cross thread. Also, always use a torque wrench to spec. when tightening the spark plugs. It sounds like being over cautious until you strip the aluminum head and then you know the effort was worth it. If you do that always, you won't need this video.
That's not entirely true. There are other reasons beyond stripping the threads that would warrant needing to re-tap. But for the most part, yeah.
The problem is most that don’t know how to tighten a spark plug without a torque wrench don’t know how to use a torque wrench ether.
Cover the tap in grease to catch the shavings, it worked great for me when I did it.
good idea thanks
Did this a couple of times on my 99 Eclipse, cylinder #2. The sparkplug just blew off while I was downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. My mechanic was busy fixing a few other cars and he just told me what to do since it would be a few days (if not more than a week) before he can fix mine (he's on call, appointment) as he was rebuilding an engine at that time. I also had to grind the butt end to fit my socket. I then used double sided tape on a thin rod to take out all the shavings that fell inside.
Can also add never seize to plug threads before screwing insert in. Helps plug release when you’ve gotten the sleeve to depth. I’ve seen some use red locktite instead of silicone based product for sleeve itself then wait 24 hours.
Thank you for showing the simplicity of this project. Everyone else......yall need to take note's.
I used the OEM kit where the insert has a flange instead of teeth. The flange stops the insert at the “right” depth. However, when measuring from the well opening down to the spark plug terminal, it sticks out about 1/32” further than the neighboring plugs that didn’t need re threaded. After the job when I turn on the engine I hear a soft tapping and now the festering thought of the electrodes not deep enough into the cylinder is making me second guess my work.
What your next option when the spark plug is blown after you have rethreaded it and it restrip what was just fixed
Holy red rtv sealant batman
That's what I'm saying I would have used lock tight myself
nice video brother, don't listen to that guy about the grease, he's actually the one who is wrong, you did the repair correct and the air hose does work just make sure that pressure is really good, my only problem with this repair is that they tend to only be good for 2 maybe 3 months before it blows out again, to actually do it right you have to use a time-sert kit that runs about $250-$300, it actually allows you to tap a brand new holeand then put the insert in which is then held in with a pin, lasts forever
Thanks a lot man! This car is still running after about 7 or so months so maybe I got lucky with this one!
Actually , using a thick grease, i.e. wheel bearing grease is the BEST way to 'retain' the shrapnel to the cutting tool. Oil is better than nothing, but it just isn't sticky enough.
best video that show the actual process.thanks a a lot
Just did this repair myself today.
My spark plug blew out of my cylinder head on my way to work. (Luckily it was right down the road)
Was able to get towed by a local friend back home (didn’t want to run it on three cylinders)
Installation was flawless.
Tips for everyone:
As addressed you’ll have to grind down the 19mm tap, was able to hammer a 17mm socket on there and get it down in my spark plug tube. I used axle grease to catch metal shavings (worked) and ended up using my shop vac to suck the exhausting shavings out of the cylinder head. Started it up with the plug out aswell and it blew everything out.
Used red rtv on the insert and make sure it’s completely flush with the beginning of the hole.
The driver tool I gave it about a good three or four taps with a hammer and it was golden.
Little tip with the driver (use old shirt cloth and stuff it around the driver and the socket that fits around it) and it worked like a charm.
Took it around the block and it ran perfectly. Will report back later on how it holds up but thankful I finally have threads
In your opinion would this fix a melting ignition coil also? 2009 civic melted a coil and the spark plug shot out damaging the threading as well. Replaced both and it happened again. So wondering if it's likely an electrical problem causing the melted coil, or engine heat that passed through the spark plug and damaged threading?
Will be buying the kit regardless along with new coil and spark plug, then ignition wires and ECM tested after installation.
@@tc6367 what happened? Did you find the reason?
@Krischanzzz LOL I just went and got the whole engine replaced in August since it needed a cylinder head. Who knows what other problems were in the 215k mile engine.
@@tc6367 😂 okay, thanks did you spent a lot for it?
@Krischanzzz Yeah, 3k but I bounced back. It was the best decision considering how expensive a newer car is. I use it to make money as well. Deliveries, apps, UPS peak season etc.
tried it everything worked great also had to grind the tap but the rtv was my only problem the plug kept getting stuck on the insert so i couldnt take the plug out with out the insert even after 24 hours i ended up you jb weld still rated to 600F so i hope it should be fine
I think that should be okay. But I don't know for sure. JB weld is a lot stronger stuff than the RTV, especially the industrial strength kind.
So from now on, Can this motor swap sparkplugs w/o continued issues? Or is this just like a bandaid fix to sell to an unsuspecting used car buyer?
steel threaded inserts are used in performance applications all the time because they offer better holding power and decrease wear compared to aluminum alone, just be sure the spark plug is held at the exact same place in the engine. manufacters dont do it because its usually too expensive. now he can change sparkplugs in that hole without worry of stripping. the one downside is that inserts can insulate spark plugs causing them to run a little hotter, but this is really only a problem for high performance applications
This saved my 2007 civic...u r the man!!!!
Sweet!
Wow this is a great video! Question... so there is no need to remove manifold intake, or gasket and valve covers to rethread?? Does the manifold intake have to be removed if this were done on cylinder 4 (the front left) ‘07 Acura MDX? This doesn’t seem as dramatic as some mechanics are acting.
How will the high temp RTV silicon hold up on the newly threaded surfaces with the oil you put on the taping too?😊
Grinding it is my problem... any other way I get it to reach?
You ever find an answer to this? I'm having the same issue
It says 9/16 drill bit
Thanks for the video I did every thing you did and it's working fine now
hector rodriguez how do you know when It’s flushes?
I was nervous about how when I was tapping it, it was moving too much side to side. So I cut a piece of pvc pipe to go around the extension I was using to keep it more centered when turning. Worked great btw I recommend if anyone is nervous about that.
I just finished red lock tight’n it now we wait.
What size tap did u use for the thread filler? My spark plug is m14, the thread filler is m16 I’m pretty sure but wanna double check
If I use a shop vac with a straw like attachment to suck out chips will that work better?
Is there a tap or tool that don't have to be modified (ground on)??
Does that repair kit will fit for a 2008 Honda Civic ex
Can you use JB weld instead of the rtv silicone? I was thinking something more permanent would be better.
That's a good question. I am not sure to be honest. I would think so, yes. Assuming JB weld can withstand those temperatures (which I think it can)
In fact, the instructions call for high temp thread sealant so Permatex or JB Weld high temp is fine. RTV silicone is great as a gasget maker and might do the trick but I prefer following the instructions closely.
Quick suggestion its better and easier if u drill out the old damage threads and make it flush before using the tap. You get better results. I just did it on my bike and on my boat. With great success
Oh and as far as chips. Just leave the plug out and let the cylinder pump it out. Or used compressed air
Hey man, I screwed in the spark plug with the new insert, but if I try to take the plug out the insert comes with it. Should I let the rtv dry for a little then try to get the plug out?
Brennen Catt Hmm... First make sure the threaded sleeve is flush with the cylinder head (meaning, make sure you screwed it in enough) What stops the threads from coming out is that knurled surface going into the head as you screw it in.
If you have screwed it in sufficiently (Don't screw it in TOO much though!), I would try to loosen the plug with a hard quick jerking motion to see if you can break the plug free from the threads without moving them.
Brennen Catt I have the same problem, When I take the spark plug out, the new insert comes out with it. I have tried lubricating the spark plug threads but it still does not work. When I do take the spark plug out the insert is difficult to remove from the spark plug.
As I said in my last response. Make sure it is screwed in enough (insert should be flush with the head)
@@png1972 Sounds like you did not clean the newly cut threads with break cleaner, so the locktite etc did not bond with the head. New sleeve should not move after it cures
compressed air does not take the metal filings out.. Start the engine up without the spark plug and the piston will throw all the metal filings out the hole.. Just don't run it for long.. Just make sure the engine runs for 2 seconds.
how many times do you have to rotate the wrench to rethread the hole?
Jsp youre both smoking crack.
Hi matt. Is there any video on removing broken heater plug 8n diesel engine
I used red grease on the tap to catch most of the shavings. I then put an ounce of oil in the cylinder to gather any stragglers, and used an oil extractor to remove the oil from the cylinder.
Did you tap on that to make sure the insert bit down with spark plug in also or did u remove plug and then hit it?
How did you grind your tap my socket does not fit in the hole and I’m stressing out
My 2001 CR-V Spark plugs were very tight on the way out. Looks like a Honda issue! Came out 1/4 turn at a time with lube. I will try and tap the threads before new plugs go in.
What would you recommend, my front motor mount, the one thats right in front of the front radiator, the bolt holes is stripped... what method or what would you recommend to do to fix that? Their is no space at all to fit any tool in their and I dont want to bring the engine down to fix that.... Just any suggestions or tip would be great.
So for some reason all of the cheap taps have to be ground down. Struggling right now to find one that just has a place for a ratchet fitting so that I don't need a socket!
How did you get the hole bigger? I can't get a drill bit that's long enough to reach
I have a 1997 honda civic ex that ione of the spark plugs broke and he have tried different methods nothing is working. Any advice?
I'm having the same issue. I was told I needed a new head. And I can't afford that. Mines a 1997 also coupe.
How did you make sure the sleeve was at the right depth?
Why did you cut out at 2:29? You were screwing down, then just pulled it out. So do you go all the way in and then back out? Or do you screw all the way in and just pull out? Kinda critical piece to cut out..
+Aaron B I suggest reading up on how to tap threads. I cut it out because it was simply me running down the tap. When you tap threads in anything, you go all the way down, and then unscrew the tap from the newly cut threads. You wouldn't be able to just pull it straight out as it is threaded into the head.
When it comes to TH-cam you only want to keep footage that is absolutely necessary and interesting, otherwise the video runs too long and people lose interest half way through.
Excellent video I wish I would have seen this before I payed an arm for the fix.
2:30 watch as all of the chips make their way down into then first cylinder hole...
Hello I have question I have bad spark plug thread hole diameter is 15.8 mm what insert size you thing I need to make it fit with inside measure 14mm*1.25mm I confused about insert outer diameter
The way the insert works is it will accept a 14 x 1.25 spark plug, and its outer diameter will dig into the head, making the hole in the head bigger to accept the insert as you screw it in. Some other kits, such as helicoil, require you to first drill the hole bigger and THEN put in the insert.
Just bought a 96 civic looks like the previous owner tried to do this but the sleeve came out with the spark plug so the spark plug looks bigger than other spark plugs, do you think if I just bought the kit and put a new sleeve over it that it would work?
Might work, it is hard to say. You would have to hope that the thread size and pitch is the same between what the previous owner did, and what you bought. I would run a tap through it first. (The size would be what ever the bigger sparkplug is)
use a "glob" of vaseline on the tap. that will catch the majority of the chips. you can also use a piece of cotton rope (small diameter), coat it with grease and push it down in the cylinder. after the tapping. you can pull the rope out. it will put even more chips with it. but it is hard to do with recessed plugs like this but it is possible.
I brought a car with this problem its got a wrecked coil pack funny thing is the coil was replaced where the broblem was where do I get these thread repare kits from.
I can't remember where I got it. Maybe Pepboys??
How did you get the tapping tool out after spreading out the black thing for the spark plug
A magnet
Please help, new to cars, at 1:16 what kind of oil do I need for lubrication, I get it a few people will laugh at me but seriously need help someone please let me know what type/kind of oil and or grease
OK Matt, I finally have the insert installed on my 97 Corolla. But the car has been sitting idle in my driveay for 6 months. Should I try to pre-lubricate the engine before cranking it? If so, what would be the best way to do that?
Chris Brennan Glad to hear it! It should be okay, but if you're really worried, just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it for a little bit. The engine wont start with the fuel pump disabled, but it will still pump oil through the engine.
MattsMotorz It worked!!! Matt, this video was a godsend for me. You have saved me $800 in labor costs. Thank you so much!!
Awesome!! Glad to hear everything worked out!
How much did the kit cost? The previous owner of my ram 50 either over tightened or never changed the plugs. All the plugs broke but i was able to get most of them out except for one. I ended up having to take the whole head off and am now trying to figure out how to get it out and am planning to buy one of these kits
If memory serves, I believe the kit was around 40 bucks. Since you already have the head off the engine, it might be worth taking it to a machine shop and asking them to do it. Just a thought. Good luck!
That's my plan, im looking at shops around my area to find out how much its going to cost.
So do you have to use a smaller spark plug than before
for the thread tool, do u thread it all the way through?
Hey Matt
When you are screwing in the new threads with the teeth, are the teeth part screwed down into the hole an then expanded, or do they just go down flush on top of hole itself? Seems to me if they are on top of the hole what do they bite into when you use the punch to expand them?
Tracy Suttles The threaded insert goes all the way into the hole until the top of the insert (with the knurled surface) is flush with the top of the hole. Meaning, none of the threaded insert is sticking out at all. Then the hammer tool expands the knurled part to bite into the head.
Hope that clears things up!
Your magnet is a beast!
Thats what I was thinkin! Like damn that's strong magnet!
My thoughts too. Can I get a link to that magnet...
Looked through all the comments looking for a comment like this and possible an answer of where I can buy one lol.
If its a alloy head,theres no magnetisim,Better off just starting the car up with the fixed plug out.
Will this work on my 2001 town car? This will be my second time replacing the ignition coil because of the plug. The plug was stripped and pushed in at the bottom.
Yep
Good video. I alway degrease and I always make sure all valves are closed on that cyl.
how do i know if my threads on the head are cross threaded ? would i hear hissing blowing air coming out from that spark plug when my engine is running? any wear on the threads of the spark plug? my threads look fine on my plugs but i hear some hissing. thanks
+carlosb1 If your threads are fine, then they werent cross threaded. The hissing could be a large number of things, some of which are normal.
I got this problem with 07 chevy impala, mine is cylinder 1 which is near the alternator. all the rest of my cylinders are fine spark plug screw in fine, but cylinder 1 was a struggle it went in a few turns,"(spark plug)", but after that it became hard to screw all the way in. I was thinking either piece of the old plug is stuck in the cylinder or just the cylinder head it self is script or something, all I know is something is wrong?
It sounds like the threads are damaged to the point where they do not work properly anymore. You may be able to get away with just running a tap through them without doing this thread insert business. Buy the appropriate tap and give it a go.
what's a tap?
A tap is used to cut threads in a hole. It can also be used to repair damaged threads, (provided the threads haven't been stripped out completely) by re-cutting them. You would most likely need to order the tap online as it isn't a size that is likely to be found at a hardware store. Do some research first on how to use taps though and what they are.
okay, thanks appreciate it will try!
do you have to lubricate the tap with somthing or you can just do it bear? because i don't have no oil or anything.Can you use something else other than oil to lubricate the tap?
Can I use the same technique for 2002 Volvo S60 AWD stripped spark plug cylinder head?
Yup, you should be able to.
So i started this project a couple weeks ago seemed simple enough so didnt watch the video im still seeping out a little air could this be because i didnt tap it in after i tighten it in or is it because im just not going in far enough if you think its because im not going in far enough i tighten as far as i can get it without feeling like im gonna over do it im a pretty big guy so i dont want to over tighten it to the point of stripping that maybe im completely out of the ball park this is a new project to me
Great Video! Thanks for explaining in detail what and why each process needs to be done! Subscribed 🙂
ok so i have the thread kit and i have a 98 Honda civic ex coupe.but the part that you attach to socket to rethread the spark plug hole doesn't fit the 5/8 socket.
I also like to know how safe and durable is to do this since I did it to my van on three spark plags
I was ready to re-thread the spark plug hole, but saw that the socket was too big to fit in. Leaving now to find another socket or I will have to grind the tap.
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+Nick Skias You could GP weld a Cycle nut on the bottom of re-thread tool
I had to go on ebay and order mine
Thanks! Very informative. I think I'm going to give it a try.
Hey what size the heli coil? Is 14m X 1.25? Thanks
So wait, did you take out the spark plug after inserting the thread insert? You didn’t show that on the video.
Whats the kit you use for the threads ??
When plug is stuck back it up half turn and continue (this worked for me 2 days ago on Corolla!). If the plug still getting stuck spray Gumout cab cleaner, kerosene or charcoal lighter fluid into the well. This will clean up the threads from carbon accumulation.
How do i know when to stop screwind in the cylinder i have a 2001 crownvic i just bout that same kit trying to do it tomorrow. Please help
When the insert is flush with the head, then you're good to go!
Dorman makes a kit for Lincolns and crown vics. Comes with plug and boot too. Those cars have issues with that.
Dorman makes a kit for Lincolns and crown vics. Comes with plug and boot too. Those cars have issues with that.
Dorman makes a kit for Lincolns and crown vics. Comes with plug and boot too. Those cars have issues with that.
Hi I know this video was a couple years ago but I have a question. How did you remove the spark plug to put the punch tool in without removing the insert?
yes you have to remove the spark plug
Johnny Pham did you ever figure out how to do this without the sleeve staying on the spark plug when attempting to remove the spark plug out?
Its always one important part......when you threaded the insert onto the spark plug, did you also tap it with the spark plug OR did you remove the plug and then tap the piece? Your video editing did not show this detail
Maybe I’m dense but how do you take the spark plug out once you’ve used it to put the new threads on without the threads also coming off?!
Dont over tighten the spark plugs so the threads don't come out when you take out the spark plug again. If it comes out again you'll have to take out the cylinder head sadly
Is this a permanent or solid repair. Will the spark plug come out with
can you explain how safe it is I fix the threads last summer till now I havent had any problem
You should be good. It should be a permanent repair.
how do you know when It’s flushed? In the inside
Where do I buy the tool to grab the punch tool because now my punch tool is inside of the hole I can take it out
It is just a magnet tool. Basically a magnet at the end of a rod. They sell them at any autoparts store.
Do I Hit Spark Plug With Tool??
Since the plug has a flange at the top of the threads, how is it possible to overtighten it? I'm wondering why you had to keep backcing out the plug to see if the insert was flush with the top. I would think you would keep turning until the flange prevented it from going down further. I'm asking because the plug holes on my '97 Corolla are 6 inches below the head, so I'm in the same boat you were. :-)
Well there isn't really a "flange." The insert is just a threaded sleeve with a knurled section. The whole sleeve PLUS the knurled section gets threaded into the cylinder head.. If you just keep tightening, the insert could potentially keep pushing its way into the cylinder. Very bad! What you want is to thread it in until the insert is flush with the top of the cylinder head (meaning the knurled part of the sleeve is not visible) then hit it with the ramming tool. Hope that makes sense! This is a very delicate procedure.
MattsMotorz I meant that the plug itself has a flange at the top of the threads. So if I place the plug inside the insert before screwing it into the head, once the top of the insert is flush with the top of the head, I would think the flange on the plug will run into the top of the head and prevent me from tightening any further. I'm hoping that's the case because it's hard for me to tell when looking down a 6" hole. Or is the flange not wide enough to prevent that from happening?
Chris Brennan your right chris in what your saying. the flange on the plug will only seat down till it hits the head not going any furthor than that. good call crhis. buddy wasent getting what you were trying to say.
Thanks Jamie, appreciate somebody clearing that up for me!
What's the part number of the kit you used?
What does it mean you screw it in until it’s flush?
I was having an issue about the 19mm not fitting in my cylinder too. I was wondering if it was safe to grind down to fit a 17mm and since you did it, it must be. Thanks for the vid!
Yup it's safe! Just make sure you grind each face evenly (and more important straight!) so it still has a definite "hex" shape.
Just finished my 1zzfe head. I used a belt sander and was able to get a perfect hex. Props to your video. Again, really saved the day. I was stuck without a car for 2 weeks.
Cool! Thanks for the update!
Scary business... frankly that kind of thing is one of my worst nightmares.
On another note my future brother in law has a 4 cylinder Ranger thats radiator cracked, he kept putting water in it which made the head gasket rust through, water poured into his oil, the piston skirts scored the crap out of the cylinders. I changed the head gasket hoping that'd be enough to keep it going, but after I changed it I did a compression test, the scored cylinders only had 45 PSI. I also noted a light crack in the cylinder head around one of the spark plug holes. I'm used to working on my own cars, so it wasn't as frustrating to test for compression to find she's dead. He's not quite as thrilled though lol.
I don't know how long you plan on making TH-cam videos, but I really enjoy them personally. However long you plan on making videos I'll keep watching!
Thanks a lot man! I appreciate that! That really sucks about your brother in laws vehicle. I definitely wouldn't be thrilled either lol.
How do you know it’s flushed?
how do you know what milimeter kit to buy ?
What does a motor sound like if the spark is stripped and not screwed in all the away?
pitchwest In my case, it sounded normal.
you'll be able to hear the air escaping out of whichever spark plug it is. Like a loud putting/sputtering noise
Am sorry my English not that perfect but my mechanic tried but it fall inside maybe he tap it to much and when I bought the car I think they used helicoil on but you think I can try again I meant on the link can I try this one this time
Ohhh I think I understand. First thing would be to get that insert out of there! He must have made the hole too big in the head. I do not know for certain, but I don't think another insert will work, as the hole may be too big. But I am not 100%. It is worth a try though!
MattsMotorz I measure it the hole diameter is 15.8 *1.25 and the link from amazon is he answer by tell me the outer diameter for the insert tap is 15.5 so you think it will be perfect
masses yozd If the outer diameter of the insert is 15.5 and the outer diameter of the hole in the head is 15.8, then that means the hole in the head is larger than the insert, meaning it will fall right through most likely. (its only 4 bucks so its worth a try but it doesn't look good IMO) Might be time for a new head.
MattsMotorz thanks bro
When I put the col on the spark plug it still doesn't want to screw down into the cylinder :/
My coil spark plug exploded while in my engine and came out with that large insert that's in that package now you notice there's not a larger size.. once you have to replace that insert you can't get a bigger size