Ranger 3.0 Camshaft Synchronizer Swap
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- This week I wanted to fix some of the squeaky issues I've been having on the Ranger and the Camshaft Synchronizer was one of the top ways to do that. It was a fairly simple swap so we kept the video short. Also decided to use some degreaser and try to dress up the engine bay. Still have a way to go but overall looking better. Thanks for watching!
Music: Tuesday (Glitch Soft Hip-hop) by Amaksi
Try Napa brand engine cleaner, no work rinse fast don't let it dry. See if you can make us a video on power steering flush? I can hear yours way over here. Good work!
Power steering badly needed to be flushed! You've got a good ear
Bro can you ask your ford mechanic neighbor dose a crown Victoria has this I been trying to figure it out for a long time thanks and God bless
You should be using the alignment tool kit that ford makes for the synchronizer that’s why it wasn’t wanting to slide down easy. It’s within a specific degree range and the engine has to be wound to top dead center. Are you still having issues with it ?
The alignment tool holds the sensor flag thing in the same spot as you stab the synchronizer into place, but you don't need it as long as the flag is in the center of the gap when it's installed, assuming your engine is at TDC. In the video he can't use the alignment tool because he's re-installing the synchronizer in the exact same position as the old one and it's not in the center of the gap, since he didn't put the engine at TDC. That's not an official way to install it because your old synchronizer might have been installed wrong and you'd be installing the new one to the same position. It doesn't really matter which position the synchronizer is facing, as long as the sensor flag is in the center of the gap when the engine is at TDC. Assuming your old one was installed correctly, and you put the new one in the same spot with the synchronizer the same way and the sensor flag in the same spot, it will work.
Not realizing what i was doing during another job, I unbolted the holddown clamp for the synchronizer and spun it around multiple times, every which way (trying to remove it for another reason) and then decided I dont want to remove it.
I repositioned it so it is facing the exact same orientation as before (which is evident due to the lack of grease where the hold down clamp was) - did i mess up any timing by doing that or am I good to start up? I never moved the crankshaft during the process so it is in the same position as before I touched the synchronizer, it is also not in TDC if that makes a difference.
A bit of a technical question and honestly above my paygrade. Theoretically you should have no issue if everything is in the same position, but I can't be absolutely certain on that one. May want to do some additional research before attempting to start. Good Luck!
@@slowmotorco Thanks for the response. I came to the same conclusion - I removed the sensor on top so I can see the position indicator "flag" in the synchronizer and I repeated what I had done previously and rotated the housing of the synchronizer around and observed that the position indicator did not move during the process.
Hey man do I need to replace both the synchronizer and cam sensor or can I just replace the cam sensor
The synchro is wat is making the noise not the sensor so no
Depends on the issue, if it is squeaking the whole synchro needs to be swapped. If you're getting a code for the sensor then theoretically you could just replace that. It isn't a particularly expensive part and relatively easy swap so I personally would just say to swap the whole thing
Does them motors supposed to sound like that like a whining noice ? Bc my 4.0 sounds identical
@@LandonSlade23 to be honest I think that is just the sound of those engines, I've worked on both the 3.0 and 4.0 and they have both sounded like that
Does the sensor basicslly just sit over the bolt?
Does this fix the oil gauge flickering
not to the best of my knowledge
No it doesn't. I found this out too. The oil pressure sensor is right next to it. It has a single wire ( I believe it's red color). The sensor itself is only about an inch in length and has a little screw in knob into the block right next to the cam synchronizer. If there's a bad connection like mine does, the oil pressure guage on the dash will flicker up and down. The red 'CHECK GUAGE' light will also pop up on the dash because of it. It might be a 19mm If I can remember. You can buy a new connector to the sensor and rewire it to fix that problem.
Edit: as long as you continue to check your oil, relax. If you feel like changing the oil pump and screen, The oil pump is mechanically driven and can be found if you pull the oil pan down. I praise ford for this because Dodge trucks oil pump is located behind the harmonic balancer and requires the timing cover to be taken off. Screw that. Cheers
Sounds the same???
The louder whine was the power steering that also needed to be replaced
Why does everyone recommend using a Ford part for replacement when the piece of crap part I'm having to replace was a Ford part? No way I'll use a Ford part.
because the other parts are the exact same design as ford, but made in China, and therefore have less production quality. Specifically the Dorman, Duralast, and other generic auto part store brands have a horrible shaft that comes out of the box with about as much play as a worn out (replacement needed) Ford one. Dumb to throw in a worse version of an already crap part.