2000 Ranger Camshaft Synchronizer P0340 & P1309 Misfire
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This video it's a brief explanation of the installation of the camshaft synchronizer. It also shows the two codes possible from the before and after effects. If you have any further questions or concerns please feel free to message me. Thank you in advance for your cooperation and time in watching the video. Please keep any rude or non-professional comments to yourself. However, any helpful tips or gladly appreciate it in the comments.
Thanks for the detailed explanation of proper install procedures. The only thing you might have mentioned is the "swirl" angle of the vanes on the bottom that will engage and rotate slightly when inserted. When you stated that the arrow on the sensor should be pointed at the 10mm bolt that it would be doing that at the completion of the insertion meaning you would have to start insertion slightly left of the bolt to end up pointing at the bolt when completed. Older post but awesome help!
Best video I have seen on this! Your close up of how to align tool is great. Got mine before I saw this out of time. I did get it up on TDC but did not get sync aligned correctly. New engine! Caused computer to not be able to figure out where TDC was and would not idle correctly or smooth out. Also an occasional backfire. Also would not accelerate past 50mph. No power. Fixing to install a new motor raft sync with tool, and a new Standard Crank position sensor. Hope this fixes the problem. Thank you for your great video!
Happy to know it was helpful to you! Thank you for your feedback. Good luck with your repair.
Dude! You helps me so much! Thank you. I'm aware that this video is old, just wanted to say I appreciate you. Giving your knowledge for free. Thank you
You're very welcome!
Thank you. I had to do mine on a 98 Mazda b3000 and watched plenty of videos but the ones I watched never said to have that arrow pointed towards the bolt hole. My truck would run good for a little while then start idling rough then run good again. I finally did the top dead center way and found a video that talked about pointing it towards the bolt hole and I’m praying it worked. I drove it 20 miles and so far it ran good.
I'm glad to hear that it worked out for you. I have dealt with installs done based on marking how they came off but it never works out. I thought this information would be good to share. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to message me. Please like and subscribe!
@@JuanTorres-mr18t I watched your video on 3.0. Camshaft synchronizer and. I felt confidsnf in doing this job but now that I'm in it I'm not so sure.on a couple of things. 1 being that I'm doing this on a 4.0 mazda and ghe tool I bought( the only one I could find) says ford 3.0 and 4.0. I unsweatand gheyre ghe same but id think itd specifiy mazda in ghe product description. 2nd concern isngetting tdc. Woulfny unwant to disconnect tge belts bevore turning the engine over to be sure rhe crank is at tdc- otherwuse your just turning everyotbing over anf your not placing ghe crank in the position our aiming for.. Well u can still be tdc but not in sync with the cam. Am I looking at this wromg?
For anyone watching this video with a 3.0 ranger, you need to make sure you're at TDC on cylinder #1 (front spark plug hole on passenger side) on the compression stroke. Just because you're at TDC doesn't mean it's on the compression stroke. To check that you need to put your finger over the spark plug hole and turn the crank clockwise until you feel pressure pushing your finger off the hole. You can also use a compression gauge or a screw-in hose with a balloon over it. Once you know it's the compression stroke then you can turn the crank until it's at TDC. Also all these guys say you need to orient the synchronizer a certain way but from what I've read that doesn't matter at all. What matters is that the sensor flag on the rotator deal is in the right position in that gap on the synchronizer. The Dorman tool centers that flag in the gap, which from what I'm reading is not correct for a 3.0 engine. The blue alignment tool appears to be the correct tool for 3.0 and sets the flag to the left side of the synchro gap. I've done mine three times now and I still have code P0340, originally I was getting code P1309. Each time I used the Dorman tool. I'm going to do it again, but position the sensor flag/post on the left side of the gap and see what that does.
Thanks for the info on lining up the synchronizer. Makes sense the way you explained it
Your welcome! Thank you for the feedback! I'm happy to hear it was clear and helpful. Please subscribe, follow and share. Thank you!
Great video. The best I’ve seen!
Appreciate the video mon, thanks for the upload. Sounds like TDC is the key here for this job.
Best vid on this job so far, thank you!!!
I'm happy to hear that. Thank you and your welcome! Please subscribe and share. Thank you!
GREAT video! GREAT advice on the top dead center, worked like a charm! Keep cranking. Thanks, from one backyard wrencher to another!
Great man just great
Wow really good !!
As far as lining up the tab, why not simply mark the hole (engine block) with a marker where the tab is located before removing the old unit? That will prevent the need to remove the #1 plug, checkingnfor TDC, and no special tool needed.
You really should line up #1 piston to do the job right. Been there done that! I might add, do not remove the installation tool from the synchronizer before the clamps is installed and do not Rotate the crankshaft when installation tool is on synchronizer.
Lining up the marks to TDC is best option. I have seen it done where marking the block does not seem to line up sensor accurately. While marking it seems to be simple, when installing the new synchronizer it can rotate and be slightly off. If it is not lined up correctly, the check engine light will remain illuminated, and engine performance is compromised.
Thanks, Juan.
where does the zero mark sit in relationship to the crankshaft sensor for TDC ii dont see anything to line up with...Thanks
How did you diagnose it?
Very true. I’ve installed a new synchronizer 3 times and evidently failed to correctly find TDC number one. Still not running right.
Shit sucks , I’m in same boat..
@@stallion3356 right? Just another example of manufacturers designing vehicles most folks CANNOT work on. Sometimes I miss points and condenser.
Great info man, thanks
A question 98 Ford ranger 4.0 new cam sensor and synchronizer and steel Throws a P1309 and it is time Right
Hello which brand synchronizer did you go with? I'm having trouble deciding what to use as dormant has some good reviews but also reviews saying it destroyed people's engines due to it failing and causing loss off oil pressure but it's only one my O'Reily shows in stock
Hi, I used an aftermarket Dorman synchronizer had no issues. The Dorman synchronizer beats paying dealer pricing on the part.
@@JuanTorres-mr18t thankyou for the quick response I appreciate it 👍
@@RicoYT23 you're welcome, I'm glad I can help.
I replaced the synchronizer. I put it at tdc. Runs a lot smoother( a little shake when I'm at the stop light. not much) But still marking code p340. Any ideas why it's still marking p340
Any advice to get a stuck one out? I literally took it apart past the lower intake to get right on it and I CANNOT get it to budge. Yes the hold down is off haha.
I have had success using a small flat head or small pry bar once loose or shimmy it side to side until release.
Will a bad camshaft synchronizer cause pre ignition detonation an rough idle that’s intermittent my 3.0 ranger is pinging under load an I’m wondering if this is my problem
Yes it will cause issues with premonition. Have you tried changing the fuel grade as a test for starters? Sometimes a low octane can also cause the pinging.
@@JuanTorres-mr18t yes I tried I even put e15 in it witch is 93 an it still pings under load an when I release the clutch fast when starting off it pings alot
@@JuanTorres-mr18t sometimes when you rev the engine u can hear it making a puffing noise like a misfire but it has power don't feel like it's misfiring no check engine light to
@@kamryn7496 I recommend checking the spark plugs wires and Ignition coil for failure 1st. Also check to make sure that the vehicle timing has not jumped and check fuel pressure. If all checks out and the problem is still there then change the synchronizer A worn out synchronizer will cause my fire also cause issues with Timing.
@@JuanTorres-mr18t I put new plugs wires an new coil when I changed the heads 10k miles ago but I noticed if I unplug the map sensor the pinging go’s away an the engine sounds great but it runs rich when the map sensor is unplugged so I changed the map but that didn’t fix it
To find top dead center before i remove the sychronizer Can i just remove the sensor and turn the crankshaft dampener until the sycnchronizer tab is in the middle? Will that confirm it’s at top dead center?
I will recommend if you want to do it that way you mark the position the synchronizer before it comes off. The reason for this when the synchronizer goes into position the splines at the end will spin and set sensor off center.
@@JuanTorres-mr18t thanks for responding, i have the tool with the arrow to install the sychronizer. I just want to make sure it’s at top dead center before removing the old sychronizer. That’s the reason i was asking if i turn the crankshaft until the tab lines up in the middle of the window and then use the tool on the new sychronizer like you said in the video...start the arrow on the tool at the 10mm bolt so that it ends up between 15 and 22 degrees. Just want to find top dead center without removing the spark plug.
@@starzztop your welcome! If I can help further feel free to message me. The tool will definitely be of good help once the the crank is set.
@@JuanTorres-mr18t just wanted to make sure if I turn the crank until the tab of the old sychronizer is in the middle of the window before i remove it? Is that top dead center or do i need to remove the number 1 spark plug to make sure? Then i will reinstall the new one with the tool. Thanks again.
@@starzztop I always recommend removing the #1 plug to confirm as the crank might show tdc however it might still be 180degree out.
I think you need to make sure your top dead center on the compression stroke if you do this on tdc exhausts stroke you may be 180 off. good video I think. I persnaly was so afraid to do this job on my 96 ford explorer I just took the censor off the new synchronizer and put it on the old synchronizer. to change the synchronizer you have to remove about half the engine on a 96 ford explorer. so you do it wrong the first time spend all day putting it back together and have to start all over again.
Hello i'm make put the engine in TDC without removing spark plug # 1 and remove old cam synchronizer bit intermediate shaft don't come out cannot see The shaft it's there try to put cam syncro with reluctor on middle facing square un front of Bolt Hole 10 mms but cannot sense The teeths of cam gear un motor 3.0 is anything that i make it wrong ir need to remove The intermediate shaft? Besides I bought a New one shaft and wanted yo change ir The cam get stuck I need to turn clockwise when installing ir? right ir wrong?
Very good information. But, it would help to see "the tool" you talk about and describe so much in actual use.
You should plug that gray wire back into where it's breath mines was the same and cause a whistling engine
You should make sure you get TDC, with the screwdriver you could be 180 out!
The screwdriver is meant more for the visual aspect. The best way to confirm TDC is confirming the marks on the Damper/Crank Gear.
You could be on the exhaust stroke. You want to be on the compression stroke tdc.
@@JuanTorres-mr18t Hello i'm make put the engine in TDC marking plate and correcto theet besides crankshaft position sensor without removing spark plug # 1 and remove old cam synchronizer bit intermediate shaft don't come out cannot see The shaft it's there try to put cam syncro with reluctor on middle facing square un front of Bolt Hole 10 mms but cannot sense The teeths of cam gear un motor 3.0 is anything that i make it wrong ir need to remove The intermediate shaft? Besides I bought a New one shaft and wanted yo change ir The cam get stuck I need to turn clockwise when installing ir? right ir wrong?.
So the ARROW has to be facing onto the bolt which then that indicates it is on TOC! Haha I just put the tool onto the synchronizer and just placed it facing the back of the engine lmao I guess I'll try and do as he says
So just use the tool before you pull the old one first.
I wish i was told this last week :(
I think I can simplify this for the old school guys you're basically replacing a distributor same methods
What is the symptom of the car when the synchronizer stop working?
Norbert Rivera it will sound like a minor belt squeak and pop the hood and if it's not your belt squeaking, you know it's your cam syncro
@@jimmymeister8030 ok but the engine keep running without problems?
Norbert Rivera it will keep running but I recommend getting it done ASAP because you'll eventually start to lose power or mis fire or a break up and if you leave it alone say goodbye to your engine
On my 2001 f150 4.2 v6, a dtc (diagnostic trouble code) of p0340 was set ,as the pcm (powertrain control module) was unable to pick up a cmp (cam position sensor) signal. May not be the same on other models, though.