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The airbag connect doesn’t have a polarity so you’re all good either way. Just make sure they’re both wired up well!

@@Jameschapo It is a good place to start, just make sure you don’t get any air bubbles back in the system! Good luck!

Ease of install and price were a big factor in this. This is still very much a street build so I don't go into turns with that kind of force. I also was most interested in the final gearing being a 3.63 for the 6 speed I was prepping to swap into the car. Unfortunately I don't have the technical skills needed to change the ring and pinon myself and didn't want to shell out the cost for someone else to do it for me

@@slowmotorco Looking at this video I think you underestimate yourself, you can do it for sure with the help of internet. Clutch pack does cost more and the flaws of the Torsen are less evident at low speeds. Maybe further down the car's progress you will see the need for it. Nice Video.

@@Iseenoobpeoples I certainly hope to get there one day! Thank you for the kind words and for watching our content!

The louder whine was the power steering that also needed to be replaced

One of the weirder places I have ever seen a fill, have to be dead on for fluid capacity!

I had a similar issue and ended up having to rebuild both the carbs as well as the fuel pump. It will start right up now but gas now pours from the charcoal canister so I am still trying to diagnose myself. I hope it goes smoothly for you! Best of luck

5/32th bit for the rivets!

I cannot recall exactly but I want to say a day or 2

SE with that few miles on it is a gem, I hope it treats you well and vice versa!

Power steering badly needed to be flushed! You've got a good ear

Bro can you ask your ford mechanic neighbor dose a crown Victoria has this I been trying to figure it out for a long time thanks and God bless

Dude… did you even watch the video?

@@Mmmgumballs I did. You still should not be beating on parts to release them.

we'll have to give that a shot if we ever need to do it again

It is a journey but one I'm glad to be on, best of luck on your GT!

Only have good things to say about tools from Harbor Freight

No shame in realizing it is more than you want to undertake by yourself! Thanks for watching non the less

A bit of a technical question and honestly above my paygrade. Theoretically you should have no issue if everything is in the same position, but I can't be absolutely certain on that one. May want to do some additional research before attempting to start. Good Luck!

@@slowmotorco Thanks for the response. I came to the same conclusion - I removed the sensor on top so I can see the position indicator "flag" in the synchronizer and I repeated what I had done previously and rotated the housing of the synchronizer around and observed that the position indicator did not move during the process.

not to the best of my knowledge

No it doesn't. I found this out too. The oil pressure sensor is right next to it. It has a single wire ( I believe it's red color). The sensor itself is only about an inch in length and has a little screw in knob into the block right next to the cam synchronizer. If there's a bad connection like mine does, the oil pressure guage on the dash will flicker up and down. The red 'CHECK GUAGE' light will also pop up on the dash because of it. It might be a 19mm If I can remember. You can buy a new connector to the sensor and rewire it to fix that problem. Edit: as long as you continue to check your oil, relax. If you feel like changing the oil pump and screen, The oil pump is mechanically driven and can be found if you pull the oil pan down. I praise ford for this because Dodge trucks oil pump is located behind the harmonic balancer and requires the timing cover to be taken off. Screw that. Cheers

Yes the detent pins is what causes 5th gear lean that was an extra $500 I didn’t feel like spending

what do you need a link for?

@@slowmotorcothe part you’re replacing..

@@famus801 www.ecstuning.com/b-mtc-parts/steering-universal-flex-joint/32311150489~mtc/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7hpGP-nRdjPKE7uG8fmkW1AGqJ8WL3NodlTde3yQRrnkkq0FXcaN3kaAvVdEALw_wcB Here is one link, I believe they are sold out most places. There are some other options if you look around

Here is another option and I believe Sikky makes a part as well. www.garagistic.com/products/e36-poly-solid-steering-flex-coupler-m3-328?variant=39556772921443&currency=USD&gbraid=0AAAAADpfsb6mp9n30Ix6tQ_sH3KILJrBH&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7jTQ8KbcIAqiNYirI3_5eWR_c9ziWhbqklcOWSvvOPGR4h0EWf1Ul0aAql-EALw_wcB

The alignment tool holds the sensor flag thing in the same spot as you stab the synchronizer into place, but you don't need it as long as the flag is in the center of the gap when it's installed, assuming your engine is at TDC. In the video he can't use the alignment tool because he's re-installing the synchronizer in the exact same position as the old one and it's not in the center of the gap, since he didn't put the engine at TDC. That's not an official way to install it because your old synchronizer might have been installed wrong and you'd be installing the new one to the same position. It doesn't really matter which position the synchronizer is facing, as long as the sensor flag is in the center of the gap when the engine is at TDC. Assuming your old one was installed correctly, and you put the new one in the same spot with the synchronizer the same way and the sensor flag in the same spot, it will work.

We had no issues with it for the time that we owned it, but sold it after about 3 months and opted for the E36 platform

The driveshaft was off as we were doing a full clutch swap and the transmission was off the car already

Glad it helped!

I have the m52 it should fit your system as long as you have the stock dual pipe midsection. I believe they specify on their website