Is pre-rinsing stupid? Let's find out!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2022
- Is pre-rinsing stupid? Let's find out! In this episode, we test to see if rinsing your car first with water is better than applying a snow foam directly on dry paint. The results might surprise you!
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🇺🇸 For people in USA:
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less: bit.ly/36oJbe0
MJJC Foam Cannon Pro: amzn.to/3MSWkNj
Kranzle 1122TST pressure washer: bit.ly/3d5kZeK
Mosmatic gun and wand solution: bit.ly/3ovIcPA
🇨🇦 For people in Canada:
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less: bit.ly/36oJbe0
MJJC Foam Cannon Pro: amzn.to/3qduFgk
Kranzle 1122TST pressure washer: bit.ly/3d5kZeK
Mosmatic gun and wand solution: bit.ly/3ovIcPA
🇬🇧 For people in the UK:
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less: bit.ly/36oJbe0
MJJC Foam Cannon Pro: amzn.to/3u3Q5xv
Kranzle 1122TST pressure washer: bit.ly/3d5kZeK
Mosmatic gun and wand solution: bit.ly/3ovIcPA
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#foamcannon #prerinse #snowfoam #detailing #cardetailing #cleaning #pantheorganizer #detailingtutorials #autodetailing - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
⬇️🔶 LINKS TO PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS VIDEO ⬇️⬇️
🇺🇸 For people in USA:
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less: bit.ly/36oJbe0
MJJC Foam Cannon Pro: amzn.to/3MSWkNj
Kranzle 1122TST pressure washer: bit.ly/3d5kZeK
Mosmatic gun and wand solution: bit.ly/3ovIcPA
🇨🇦 For people in Canada:
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less: bit.ly/36oJbe0
MJJC Foam Cannon Pro: amzn.to/3qduFgk
Kranzle 1122TST pressure washer: bit.ly/3d5kZeK
Mosmatic gun and wand solution: bit.ly/3ovIcPA
🇬🇧 For people in the UK:
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less: bit.ly/36oJbe0
MJJC Foam Cannon Pro: amzn.to/3u3Q5xv
Kranzle 1122TST pressure washer: bit.ly/3d5kZeK
Mosmatic gun and wand solution: bit.ly/3ovIcPA
I like to rinse the car first with a regular hose sprayer to get any loose stuff off, then snow foam and rinse off with the pressure washer. Foam again and use mitts, pressure wash off.
Good stuff Pan its interesting this one. Heres the heart of it. When a dirt film layer is dry on the car. Then it has the ability to soak in a liquid. In the same way a dry piece of paper soaks in a liquid. Once the dirt film (or dry piece of paper example) is soaked with water it is saturated. It looses the ability to draw in more liquid at this point. So you then spray the dirt film thats saturated with water with your snow foam pre wash (which is a free rinsing non contact wash product) But the surfactant cannot be drawn into the dirt film because its saturated with water already. The water alone is a poor emulsifier of some types of winter road films we get in the UK. So the water rinse hampers the surfactant from penetrating and emulsifying the film. surfactants work by making materials which are not water soluable able to mix with water. But if they cant get to that material they cannot work. Dilution is also significantly lowered. Ive found on UK winter road film quite dramatic differences in product performance, AKA it works significantly better going on dry. Ive also been saying this for years but again Im not looking for universal agreement. plus wasting time, water and electricity or gas.
Counter arguments are cooling a car with summer dust only with the water can be useful (yes)
Extreme chunks of mud might be good to just blast off first (yes)
not all road films are the same constitution some do break down well with water (mud splatter for example) so you might find its not always a big deal either way
Or you might just feel rinsing with water first is the best way for you.
Viva la difference! ;)
Jon, now we need to know what the more alkaline or heavier detergent/surfactant concentrated pre-washes do the protection layer. Are modern coatings chemical resistant enough resist getting jacked up by these cleaners? I think we'd all be cool with a coating losing a few months of longevity, but what if it cuts the life in half? Also, what happens longer-term to plastics, rubber, and trim?
It’s always nice to exchange thoughts with you Jon! This is certainly a topic that gets people talking. I think people need to do some testing in their conditions, based on environmental conditions, what snow foam they use, which method yields the best results for them, and to use what works best after they do A and B testing.
What works for me, with the insane winters and road salt that we are exposed to in Montreal, might be different for someone living in sunny California for example, or a very humid climate in another country, etc.
I also think it’s important to use common sense while detailing. If your car is caked in a thick layer of mud, I would recommend pre-rinsing first.
But it was certainly nice to watch your videos on it and for me to show these tests in my conditions too. I think we essentially came to the same conclusions especially when it comes to the choice of a snow foam.
Cheers!
Coatings can typically resist to chemicals in pH ranges 2-3 all the way to 11-12 depending on the coating.
We’d have to do long term testing to see, but I wouldn’t recommend a pH 13 snow foam for every single wash (especially for guys like me who clean their cars twice weekly) as that could potentially harm the coating but more importantly it’s not needed that frequently.
For someone who only washes their car one or twice a month, I don’t think such a pre-wash will have a detrimental effect on a good ceramic coating. Many of my viewers, especially in the UK, seem to use Bilt Hamber snow foams all the time on their coated cars and even that doesn’t hurt their coating.
I’m sure there’s more to the chemistry than just pH. As there are stripping shampoos that are more powerful to remove waxes at a lower pH, compared to these BH pH 12-13 snow foams.
the lsp Deg issue is another interesring one Matt but it's different to this topic. surfactants are not very effective at removing modern lsp because they work through emulsifying. where a surfactant sits on the on the pH scale is not that important versus the specific properties of the chemical used. the biggest commen degrader of Lsp from a chem pov will be things like caustic soda and phosphates or use of other hydroxides.. some closer to pH neutral products can be more caustic than higher alkaline depending on what's in them. alkalinity alone is not a reliable marker in a products ability to degrade.
things like coatings can not really be effected by typical surfactants because of what they are chemically. so a coating tends to get mechanically eroded off the panel more.
want safe chemicals that have very strict regulations about what's in them, then buy European. specifically German. Koch are superb on this.
From my 30 yrs of experience, the UV is the biggest destroyer of clear coats. Also, the final chemistry result within any cleaner is key. Most soaps contain sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Why? Because that is how soap is made. Just because they are in the formulations doesnt mean they will kill the clear coat faster. Many surfactants have these as well.
The biggest factor to look for (in my opinion) is does the cleaner etch glass if left to dry. If the answer is yes, then use less often. If the answer is no, then the final chemistry made within the formulation is a safer choice for long term, repeative use. Also, some of the thicker gel soaps have high salt contents. Salt in and of its self can corroad over time. Most soaps dont have high ph. However it is loaded in salt. So...the final chemistry of the final product is really what matters in my experience of 30 yrs.
Hi everyone! I usually reply to all TH-cam comments as you know, but there are so many comments in this video it’s a bit overwhelming so I won’t be able to respond to all of them unfortunately. Thanks for understanding. 👍🏻
Pan has guided me though my journey of proper car care since I bought my i8 1 year ago. It's been immensely helpful thank you!
To me it looked as though the pre rinse door was a little cleaner. Glad to see another video on this. I may give it a try during one of my washes to see it in person. Thank's for sharing 👍
I think it would have been easier to see the results with a darker colored paint. Further, a wipe of 90%+ isopropyl alcohol with a white paper towel after drying might have shown which was more effective. All in all, I think we’ve reached a point of distinction with minute differences. Thanks, Pan.
A white paper towel will scratch your paint!
@@Cartec09 Okay… then a soft, white cotton facecloth. 🙄
Exactly! A contact wash is always needed after a pre-wash. So I will not drag a paper towel or even a microfiber towel on the paint after just the pre-wash as that could scratch the finish! If people want to do that on their own cars, they’re more than welcome to do their own tests. ;)
I’m loving the last 2 steps this and snow foam thanks pan we need more of these tests thanks
Very interesting demo. I usually prerinse before contact washing, however, I will try without and see for myself. Thanks again Pan for your demonstration! 👍
Yes! Thanks! I'm sold. I've been trying this for about a month now and I love skipping the pre rinsing step. I do feel the surface is slightly cleaner and maybe more lubricated. but if it's for nothing else the time and water savings is awesome.
I’m am tremendously glad you made this video, snow foaming or even using an apc pre wash first makes the most sense ever; pre-rinsing rubs the dirt on the paint, while using snow foam first makes best use of snow foam, thanks Pan
Good video, I’m glad you did this test to match with Johns, just gives me even more confidence in the outcome.
One thing which may have slightly given an unfair advantage to the pre rinse stage, was you spent longer and was more direct with the lance(edit lance) position, rinsing the one side. But it didn’t seem to affect the test.
Thanks Pan, I particularly like these types of videos. Thank you for the great content.
Thanks for that Paul! 👍🏻
This is the video with the golden answer. Amazing work. Thanks Pan!
Thanks Joseph!
I rarely pre-rinse now (unless the car is exceptionally dirty). I was intrigued by Jon’s video, as well as a few others, so I tried it myself then decided to change my standard wash process 👍🏻
What is your standard wash process?
@@FullPcGamer same as always just without pre-rinsing most of the time. I have variations depending on time and how dirty the car is but the standard for me is;
>wheels cleaned
>body; pre-wash w/foam over for dwell time
> contact wash
>protection/dressings
>dried
What’s your standard?
I use Griots Surface foam dry per the instructions. I typically pre-rinsed now that its crazy pollen season in Georgia. Once pollen season passes I go back to applying the foam to a dry surface. As always, great video Pan!
I sometimes pre rinse, other times not, and other times pre soak with ONR; the last one was because of a PAN vid. All work well if you are using the right products; right products thatnks to the many PAN vids. Keep up the great work PAN!
Bien explicado , Gracias 👍
Thanks for answering yet another somewhat debated topic bru.
Between yours and John's videos, I'm sold on skipping the pre-rinse for a daily driver that's not too caked up. However, I usually wash my car after work, and it's piping hot from the drive in the central Florida sun. I don't have enough time in my shaded driveway for the car to cool, so I give it a pre-rinse mostly to cool the paint down. Otherwise, the snow foam will start drying before a proper dwell time. That said, if my car was already in the shade (like the garage) and not hot to the touch, I will definitely test skipping the pre-rinse when I'm able. Mobile detailers have it even tougher washing in direct sun without much choice. I wonder what order they prefer. Thanks for the post!
You read my mind, I came across John's video earlier this week and wrote out the question on this topic to send to you. You beat me to it, lol. I saw the logic that foam on dry made sense not only for the dilution aspect but as in that video, the layer of water that will prevent the direct contact of the foam to the panel. In your result, watching on screen, I was putting my attention to the image of the background reflecting in the panel and to me, the dry shows to project a better image but yes ever so slight. Great comparison and yes using common sense. The question i had prepared was in two part. So you wonderfully answered the first, the second is if there is a true difference between a hose foam canon vs a pressure washer foam canon since both are available on the market. Thx Pan.
Since Jon did his video I’ve stopped pre - rinsing. Rarely get heavy mud deposits in Uk. Really happy with the switch.
Good to see your test Pan! Thanks
Thanks Adrian!
I would love a good comparison of bilt hamber autofoam vs carpro reset on a really dirty car. Also how ironx, tarx, or even trix deal with plasti dip (parts) on a car. Great video as always!
CarPro Lift would be a better comparison surely?
I use reset only once to twice per year when my ceramic starts to fade, but I pre foam with car pro lift and and I can see dirt running down the side, that or tough mudder on my truck or SxS.
@@ItsRyan. yeah carpro lift sounds like a fair comparison tbh. What i cant seem to find though is enough info about the decontamination products i mentioned above. I have i fiat abarth which has a lot of contaminated areas, but also has some plasti dip parts and stripes on the side. I cant seem to find answers about those products, and im a bit scared to experiment on the car 🤷
Autofoam will beat reset any day as a pre-foam. But that’s not what reset is designed for. Carpro lift is the product to compare, but having all of these products, BH AF is noticeably stronger. As for the plastidip all these products including ironx should be safe. I’m guessing tarx might impact it. Best way is to dip some pieces to test with to be sure.
Both tests worked really well - but not pre rinsing has saved time and water. Both valuable commodities for the world especially for detailing businesses. Superb video 👌
I was spraying ONR before the initial rinse as lube. Am going to give this a go and see how it works
Great content and professional presentation. Thank you! //// Had thought another (maybe primary) thought about "foam first'' vs 'rinse first' was that "ff' allowed dirt to be more effectively lifted and removed from the paint whereas 'rinse first' was pushing dirt across the paint w/o benefit of foam lubrication ?
Just saw the forensic detailing video about this yesterday and planned on asking what's your opinion about it in your next video.
Instead, your next video is exactly that.
Small world :D
Hi Pan. I’ve found that pre-rinsing my cars (4x white) gave a much better result than foaming first. I also found that this method allows you to do the contact wash without needing to rinse the foam off (rightly or wrongly). It’s more efficient.
Hi pan great video, between yourself and Jon I'm seriously thinking about giving the no rinse a go just to see what happens, keep up the great work
Great video Pan, I pre rinse , then spray snow foam and lastly I do the two buckets method. I alway use pre rinse just to be one the safe side.
Thanks Pan for the comparison video. To me there is no right or wrong way to pre-rinse. The steps that I use which I picked up from yourself are: 1. Apply APC on a dry panel, let it dwell for a few minutes. 2. Apply snow foam and let dwell. 3. Rinse off. Some people will leave the snow foam on and use that as part of the contact wash. As I have to wash my car in the street which has plenty of trees, I don't use that method in case a leaf blows onto the foam and I don't see it before manually washing that part, and end up scratching the paint, even though ceramic coated.
Great video, Pan. I almost never pre-rinse before applying the snow foam. The only time I pre-rinse is when there are bird droppings or something caked on the vehicle.
I’m currently following your wash process from your, “wash your car like a pro video” from 10 months ago, where you pre rinse with McKee’s 37 N-914 or ONR before you snow foam the vehicle 😊
That’s what I do too, like a pre-pre-wash, 1 extra step doesn’t hurt!
Pan, How about switching it up,(from your “wash it like a pro steps”) how about snow foaming on Dry paint let it do it’s job and do it well ( and save on water) then do an ONR/rinseless application wait 1-2 minutes and then go immediately into hand washing. Thoughts on how that would get best results and be most efficient and effective?
I use the waterless rinse product you referenced in your updated car wash video then I apply the snow foam. Seems to prep the surface quite nicely.
Great video Pan!
Thanks!
Fantastic vid as always. I live in Trinidad in the Caribbean and we don’t have issues with high industrial fall out or road salt. My question is that if you have a car that is treated with a hybrid ceramic wax or even a regular wax will the snow foam not remove the hybrid ceramic wax or other types of waxes? Thanks
Thanks a lot Pan
Every time i think about anything about how to clean the car properly
I found the answer in your channel
No matter what I think about
Thanks for the positive feedback Orwa! How did you discover my channel?
Welcome to my channel. You discovered one of the biggest car detailing channels on TH-cam as we surpassed 890,000 subscribers and we have over 115 million views! I have been detailing for 26 years and I love to share my knowledge and passion with my viewers.
You found the right channel to help you learn everything about detailing.
@@PanTheOrganizer hi Pan thanks for your feedback
A few months ago I bought a new car that i really like and started washing at home
I started searching youtube for detailing videos and found your great channel
Since am addicted to it
You’re doing an amazing serious job
Simply the best on the field 👍🙏
A John and Pan collab is what the people want!
Pan great video, I wonder if you used a ph neutral soap if you would of gotten the same results.
No. PH neutral doesn’t have the same cleaning power. We showed that in the previous video on pre-washes.
I agree with common sense. I can see saving 5 minutes as a professional detailer doing multiple vehicles by not pre-rinsing. For me, time is alloted per job and the cost is accounted for. My clients expect a certain result with the least potential of surface marring. It's a reflection of my methods, quality products and equipment. Great topic and points of discussion. Thank you Pan! Awesome as always.
Really good and interesting video.
Another thing to consider: when you pre-rinse the car and apply your chemicals, you are basically diluting them even more.
So, if the car is extremely dirty (like covered in chunks of dirt), hot or cold, I lightly pre-rinse it: Hot car - just to cool it down, cold car - to heat it up, covered in chunks of dirt - just to remove most of the dirt.
If it's just dusty, or a little dirty (like in the video), I start with snow foam straight away.
I would like to see you do a video of gyeon wax q2 test. May use it for my 6 month topper on my adams GCA.
I live in a pretty dusty dry/arid climate in a rural area so both of my vehicles get ‘dirty’ hours after washing. One of vehicles is ceramic coated, 6 month into a ‘5 year’ coating and it’s holding up well. I think I’ll start adopting practice of not doing a pre-rinse and see my results on it. Other vehicle only has a sealant that I applied myself. I like to pre-rinse mainly because my pressure washer is a craftsman 1900 psi @ 1.2 gpm, so pretty low flow rate and for the sealant coated car I worry i won’t get enough grime/debris off with standalone snow foam. Thank you for doing this video!
I see an ever so slightly difference, however the front does project a more clearer image. I have applied snowfoam both ways, but after seeing this I'm going to go back to the dry method 1st. Thanks pan 👍
Great pan. I use McKee's n-914 waterless wash let Soak for about 5 minutes then rest off the use carpro lift then hand wash
Bravo, Pan! 👏🏻
I guess, from a water conservation perspective, no pre-rinse would be a consideration.
Great video. As always.
Yeah that's another plus point. I've been doing this method for years and its the best way, it isn't diluting the SF when it contacts the wet surface. When it hit the dry dirt its still 5% PIR dilution 👍
2/3 of the world is covered in water, and all water naturally recycles.
I would prefer to pre rinse just to get larger material off before snow foam thanks pan
GRAZIE MILLE PAN!!!!! sei davvero bravo
Ciao Pino!
Although it may be a reflection, the lower door molding on the non pre-rinse door still seems dirty, whereas the pre-rinse door seems just as clean on the paint and cleaner on the plastic molding. Plastic being more porous, I think there's an argument for both sides here. I would imagine using a PH neutral foam could impact the results as well. Great experiment Pan! Thanks for the investigative content.
I also noticed that, however, we must consider that the dirt on those plastics comes directly from the front tire. Consequently, the back ones will get less dirt as they are further away from the tire. Also, I don't think those were the main focus of the test, cause Pan seems to focus on the painted surfaces.
Great video Pan and my thought is more precautions you do for take care your car surface is not in vane 👍🏾😎
Once again, a very interesting and great video, Pan. My personal preference is to pre-rinse the vehicle. I don’t have a pressure washer snow cannon. I have a traditional hose soap canister from Adams Polishes. I’ll pre-rinse, shoot the soap on, let it dwell, rinse again. Then I’ll use the two bucket wash method and then rinse with whatever soap is still in the Adams canister. Obviously, I’ll finish up with plain water to rinse the entire vehicle.
Pan what is best topper for a silver car
Adam's advanced graphene is definitely doing its job well. I love Bilt Hamber as I've mentioned before.
A very good tip- reduce your Touchless to 4% PIR then add around 50-75 ml of Bilt Hamber Surfex HD into your MJJC then top it up to 1ltr mark. This turns the cleaning power up to number 11. Also if your car is ceramic coated you'll find its just starts beading and sheeting like you just applied it for some reason (its just a super strong surfactant APC) but for that demonstration on that amount of dirt would be ideal. I've used the exact same equipment as you Pan today. 😊
Great video Pan, it really seams tricky what approach one should consider between a pre rinse or to just foam it up or the Yvan Lacroix rinseless wash approach, this is always confusing to me, because in my mind I'm always wondering what are the chances that the vehicle is getting scratched anyway 😅
interesting video Pan!!
Thanks Mike!
i started using rinseless in a foam cannon to be my prewash at the standard dilution. once i pre rinsed with the 256 to 1 ratio....i then foam cannoned which now doesnt leave water spots since the rinseless pre rinse tends to knock down water spots.
I’m interested in seeing a test of a snow foam applied vs an apc with an ik multi sprayer
Hi there Pan, dont know if it interests you but id love to see a review video on the rogue!
Definitely pre rinse if you plan on using wash mit with the snow foam to get most gunk of the paint. But I've always pre rinsed, just part of pots and pans now.
Great real world test for us to see and evaluate. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Pan 1000nth like for u. Pan how many bottles of Adams advanced graphene coating to coat a full size suv?
Hello Pan! Might be a bit out of contex but i would like to ask for ur opinion on this
So ive been thinking about which paint protection product would be best now for summer time, it does get a bit sunny here so uv protection is needed, and some hydrophobic props for easy cleaning .
Im also begginer so im looking at the easy ones and not coatings
Have been thinking Can Coat Evo but idk whether it has uv protection
Might aswell do a combo Turtle wax Sealant (not ice n shine we dont have that here yet) + gyeon wax
Honestly been asking alot which would be best and not seem to find answers, would apreciate ur opionion on this as a profesional pan whether be it combo or single product
Nice ty for info pan
Thanks Pete!
What a good snow foam... And what a benefit to having a nice garage.... 5 minutes of dwell, nice 👍
This saves me Eight quarters at the self car wash. Thanks Pan. Now i can focus on spending that extra time to foam the car soaking wet
Thanks for watching Alisol! How did you discover my channel by the way?
Welcome to my channel. You discovered one of the biggest car detailing channels on TH-cam as we surpassed 840,000 subscribers and 105 million views! I have been detailing for 25 years and I love to share my knowledge and passion with my viewers.
You found the right channel to help you learn everything about detailing.
The snow foam is amazing!
Should I get the arsenal bucket kit from Chemical guys
Hi Pam. Awesome 👏 video and as always great content. As you had mentioned in your video, if the vehicle is visibly dirty, I like to go ahead with Koch chemie GS mixed (low to medium dilution ratio) and use it as a pre rinse followed by blast of water flow using a pressure washer cleans the car almost 90%. You can then go ahead with GSF + GS (if needed) in foam canon followed by 2/3 bucket system. But again it’s all the first visual appearance of vehicle 🚗 and an initial inspection/assessment of vehicle to determine what would work best based on the amount of dirt/dust/mud/other deposits.
Thanks Urvish!
Can you make a test if snow foam directly vs degreaser/iron-remover then snow foam last to see if its any different???
Great video Pan! As a mobile detailer sometimes I have to watch how much water I’m using, specially if I’m not near water spot to refill deionize water so I tend not to pre rinse plus I don’t thinks it necessary.
Thanks!
yet another great video Pan - thank you and please keep it going - However - just a thought: No matter how far this method improves washing results or not: It does save a lot of water which definitvely is a concern for mobile detailers ... ( many greets from Munich, Bavaria, Germany)
I saw John's video and started applying foam dry, and it seemed to work just as well (if not better) on 5 cars - two black, one maroon, 2 silver/gray. They are all ceramic coated, but some are getting due for a refresh. I think the better way to think about it is to work backwards...Do you do a final detail spray around the car (even better a ceramic booster)?...And/or do you hand wash? Do you snow foam/rinse/snow foam/hand wash? Or snow foam/hand wash? Or just snow foam and no hand wash? I have found that if you're a clean car freak (you know you are), then it's never that dirty, so my method is Dry foam, rinse, INSPECT, either hand wash or not (usually it's every other wash), and then finish with a ceramic detail spray. I can always judge how well I did based on how clean the yellow towels are during the detail spray step. And with this method, I almost never have a dirty towel. On the dirty towel method (working backwards), the two cars that are never garaged need the hand wash step every time I wash them (every 2 weeks). The garaged cars don't need a hand wash at all, so I do the hand wash only every other wash (2 weeks no, 4 weeks yes). I think that you should always finish with a detailing spray, for the cleanest car and the best shine, so if you are doing that, it's easy to tell what "cheats" you can get away with earlier in the process. Glad you did this video, Pan!
great video...I snow foam first, let it sit for 5 min, then rinse. 2nd snow foam I then wipe with micro fiber mitt, then rinse. IMHO
Definitely going to always snow foam from now on!
pretty much the same results but you save water by skipping the pre-rinse. Clear winner here
I use to wash a car like this, preparing it for a compound, polish and coating.
A citrus diluted 1-10, from a pump sprayer, let it do its magic for 5minutes then rinse
A foam wash, and using the foam to further lubricate the surface, i do the 2 bucket wash, leaving the paint super clean after rinsing it. And of course i follow up with the chemical and mechanical decontamination if needed.
This way, the first citrus wash helps to get the majority of the dirt of so the next foam wash with the wash mitt doesn't scratch the surface even more. You should try it ☺️. Thanks Pan and keep up the good work!
Hi Pan, great video!
Have I missed the video about KAMIKAZE MIYABI & ZIPANG or have You not made a video solely with these products yet? Would be very interested in seeing the product being applied and also the long term results!
I haven’t made a dedicated video for those.
I split the difference, prerinse the bottom half and foam from top down doing the wheels while I wait for foam to work.
Hi! Great video! It will save a few minutes in my Sunday car wash routine, can I ask in your opinion if my cars are ceramic coated, which kind of snow foam can i use in order to get a good pre-rinse before hand wash and at the same time preserve the coating?
Watch my video on that topic: th-cam.com/video/8j5dJUM8Fb4/w-d-xo.html
This sounds silly , but I went to carwash school... we learned to put only the presoak on, and always spray it on from the bottom up, the strong Ph can cause "cleaner" streaks running down the car... super vids man!!
Thanks Dougie! How did you discover my channel by the way?
Welcome to my channel. You discovered one of the biggest car detailing channels on TH-cam as we surpassed 760,000 subscribers and are getting close to 100 million views! I have been detailing for 25 years and I love to share my knowledge and passion with my viewers.
You found the right channel to help you learn everything about detailing.
@@PanTheOrganizer I found it using TH-cam search.
Bilt Hamber has some seriously amazing products. I need to get on board with that.
100% best products out there, use it with touch-on sachets of SI02 shampoo for the whole touchless wash system. After 5 goes you'll hardly need to contact wash the paintwork 👍
Hey Pan, great video! Looks like I got little specs of white stuff on the rear truck lid and bumper. It might be dried plaster or paint. Washed twice and they are still there. You think tar remover will work for this? Thx!
Hard to say without being there in person or knowing exactly what the issue is. Troubleshooting detailing related questions through text isn’t onbvious. Try different methods and see.
Hi Pan, I love your videos they are really helpful. Can you feature how do you properly wash and detail the roof. Specially for taller ones like SUVs. Thank you
I made a video here: th-cam.com/video/rc-8j0fKp9Y/w-d-xo.html
@@PanTheOrganizer Thank you :)
Nice job with doing this comparison. Maybe it would have been easier to see a difference on dark/black paint?
Is it true that pre rinsing with a pressure hose scratches the body?
Splitting hairs... i learned that that soap you use works pretty well
Another good test Pan , in my opinion the pre rinse is a bit more cleaner ,when you see the black unther the Doors , but its verry difficult to see on video 😉
Great video as always Pan! Perfectly said when common sense is definitely important. I personally pre rinse every time, better safe than sorry
Thanks JD!
can you do a video covering how to deal with cars that have decals or flat paint such as the ford raptor or most dodge challenger/chargers
Pan, maybe you could follow up on each panel with a rinsless wash solution to see how much dirt you would have on your towel/mitt from each panel for comparison.
Great video. Can you try doing a different video with a standard snow foam for example gsf. That built hanger one has a higher ph and better cleaning ability.
GSF will do basically nothing.
Basically what I figured
love the comparison, using common sense for a pre rinse is definitely needed
Exactly!
Unfortunately I don't have a controlled environment. I live in Hawaii so we have summer and cooler summer. Pre-rinse is a must to cool down the car unless you start VERY early in the morning or are fortunate enough to have a shaded area.
Hi Pan. It looked to me that the snow foam was sliding down both doors at the same speed. As you said there's not a great difference. CHEERS
Great video, as always! One question: If we are in a warm climate and need to do the whole process outside, would it make sense to default to a prewash. My thought is that it would lower the panel temperature and remove some of the dirt in advance, as 5 minutes to dwell is likely not realistic in 90-plus degrees.
I would prefer recommending to wash very early in the morning or as late as possible in the evening. Always avoid working in direct sunlight or in the heat.
Working in direct sunlight makes zero sense to me unless you have no choice (i.e. you are a mobile detailer). You can always wait for a day with an overcast sky, or not do this at noon when the sun is at its brightest or hottest. It doesn't make for a good user experience.
If you really want to wash your car in the sun, I would use a water deionizer setup to at least have zero chances of water spots, use a good pH neutral shampoo, and yes I would pre-rinse the vehicle to lower the surface temp a bit (although it won't have that much of an impact overall).
i respect all opinions , i prefer to pre-rinse always always.
Merci pour le test…je préfère comme toi rincer avant….hier j ai fait comme toi en appliquant le produit rince and wash formule améliorée ds une bouteille de
Spree. J’ai mit 1. C à thé de Produit ds un litre d eau. Est-ce la bonne quantité ou je dois mettre
Plus de produit?
Thank you for doing this. Hopefully people will save water and time by cutting out the pre-rinse stage when it isn't necessary.
Thanks for watching Steven!
Hey Pan great vid. I know that the car u did the test is coated so maybe the difference on an uncoated or unprotected would be more visible as the dirt stick more to an unprotected paint.
Nice content keep it up!
My viewers mainly have a coated car so this test was actually more appropriate for my audience. This is a detailing channel after all. None of my viewers have an unprotected paint.
Pan, as you have mentioned cleaning achieved with & without the pre - rinse are very close..
But my concern is - which would be less damaging to the paint/coating..? pre - rinse & then the snow form method or the snow form directly on dry surface..?
Would the pre - rinse drive the dirt into the paint more when compared to using the snow foam on the dry surface..?
There is no reason to suspect, to suppose, that without rinsing dirt will adhere or cause damage.
Damage is mainly caused by mechanical washing, i.e. with contact with the paint or coating. And not by just a snow foam.
The focus is on efficiency. So whether it is really necessary to rinse the vehicle first.
I just shared a link above.
The dirt only drives into the paint if you pressure wash extremely close to the paint, if you're at a safe distance when pressure washing then theres no need to worry.
Question I have over spray on my truck. After washing my car I used turtle wax graphene flex wax and didn't notice it was all over the side of my truck from the wind, any idea how to ho about removing it
A light polish should do it.