Recovery Gear Part 1: The Basics
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- Gear Shown in the Video:
Factor 55 Hitchlink
www.amazon.com/Factor-55-0002...
Bubba Rope Soft Shackle
www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-Ver...
Grade 8 Hitch Pin
www.amazon.com/Hitch-Pin-8in-...
Warn Premium 3"x30' Recovery Strap
www.amazon.com/Warn-88924-Pre...
Maxsa Innovations Escaper Buddy
www.amazon.com/Innovations-20...
Deka 2 Gauge Jumper Cables
www.farmandfleet.com/products... - บันเทิง
i like your video. even if people have different preferences, it gets us talking in the comments and getting to offer different options. nice and too the point. thanks
You make great videos. Keep 'em coming!
Very thorough video and extremely useful. Thanks for taking to do this!
I learned a lot with your video. I'll hit the road in a long trip pulling a trailer, something I haven't done before, so these tips came on my way at the proper time. I know some of your tip will help me in some circumstances. If I don't need them will be better, but if I do, I know now what to do and how. Thanks you so much
Great video and channel please keep it up with the tips and the full size. It's great to see someone who drives something other then a jeep or Toyota
Waiting for part 2. Great video.
recently bought a 2003 Tacoma for use in the backcountry. Thanks for the info man!
I enjoy your videos quite a bit. First recovery item should always be a shovel though. Can't wait to hear your thoughts on toppers.
Good video and thanks for taking the time to put it together
definitely loving hearing about new products that i was unaware of. recovery is a vital tool for anyone serious about 4wdriving
Agreed! Like I mentioned in the video, it's an essential skill, but one that can get you hurt badly and your rig damaged severely if not executed well. Having the right tools for the job and knowing how to pick out the right gear is pretty important. I'll be doing a separate "winch specific" recovery gear video since that has its own set of specific tools and gear.
Good basic information, thanks.
Good Stuff, Great Help, Good Tips 👍Thanks!
Very informative. -Cheers mate.
Great video with clear explanation. About recovery points though I'm not sure how to locate them
Thanks for the info
Solid
Enjoyed this thanks man... ive not fallen victim to getting stuck yet but Im trying to be proactive
Awesome
Nice video. I, too, found out about the Factor 55 gear and l love their Ultra HOOK that allows you to use a 3/4" screw pin shackle or a soft shackle And, has a hook failure of 31,000'lbs and at the hole for the shackle failure of 48,000 lbs.(IIRC).
When you switch to Bubba ROPE, you'll love it. I carry two 7/8"x30 foot type. Very smooth as it stretches and when it pulls a vehicle out. No violent jerk like a chain, tow strap, or even the older recovery, all of which can damage either vehicle, even tow holds. Just a fabulous invention. I think they only warranty it of purchased thru a registered dealer. Nice they Moshe soft shackles and Bubba Rope for ATV sized needs, too.
Look forward to your future videos.
Thanks! I've looked at the 7\8" bubba rope...they look awesome, but they're not cheap. But then again, for something that's going to store the amount of potential energy that a kinetic rope does, you WANT to be able to trust it. Some things you need to spend good money on!
Glad I found your channel, as I'm gonna be building my f150 (you can see in my channel) into a overland expedition vehicle.
Hey! Thanks for the subscribe! Always happy to have another F-150 guy around!
Are you still glad you discovered this guy? He hasn't posted anything in more than a year.
Gonna check it out
Great video. Thank you! What are your thoughts regarding the lenght of the recovery strap 20ft vs 30ft ?
I carry 2x 20ft 1x 30ft and needed all once stuck in meadow, nearest winch point 165 ft away 95ft winch cable.
Good info. I would like to talk to you more about doing some trips around our area.
I have a 2021 Ford Ranger Lariat 4x4 with factory tow hooks on the front. I have a heavy duty tow strap with looped ends. What are the connection methods of connecting the tow strap to the tow hooks?
where in the world are the recover points on an '09 Supercrew f150 4x4? I'd assume the hitch and front tow loops
OK I have a D- Ring on the back the truck I'm getting a recovery strap can i get a hook for the other side in case the other suv or truck doesn't have a pull point ?
Good info... what is that tray system in the bed of your truck? That cools pretty cool.
It's a Decked Drawer System. Pretty easily commercially available direct from Decked.
False: bow shackles are stronger than soft shackles and will generally be the last thing to break. As bow shackles are rigging equipment, you need to take the number given for strength and multiply by 5 if you want to compare strength to a soft shackle
^this
...provided they are manufactured AND certified by a reputable company like Crosby. NOT CHINA!!!
I know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Hector Marshall Instablaster :)
@Brock Lukas thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
what hitch pin do you use for the factory 55 hitch receiver shackle mount? hitch pin never mentioned - Thanks
Question:
There are dual front closed loop tow hooks on my Expedition.
How does one properly configure the attachment of tow strap?
Using both or just one?
Thanks!
Dave
safest way is two straps, one to each recovery point out to a shackle rated for the straps ie. 19k lbs straps to a 40k shackle. but also make sure the shackle mount can handle the 40k. I do it to my jeep front hooks rated at 5k each.
A lot of math goes into this there is no set answer, each of those hooks will be rated for x lbs, the straps will be rated for x lbs, using both straps on both hooks doubles the straps wll and divides the load onto two hooks as oppose to one, using 2 hooks with the strap doubled up will be the strongest but not necessary in all situations it all depends on the wll of the straps and the hooks, and the resistance to overcome to get unstuck, so much math and physics goes into a safe predictable recovery I cannot explain it all in a comment.
Great video! Just a question… Could you use a Bubba rope shackle in a factor 55 Hitch link? To eliminate a 3/4” D shackle?
if the edges are soft, no cuts in hitch mount part, if there are I carry a small file to file off to smooth for mine.
Don't be afraid of metal shackles stay withing their working load limit and you will never ever have one break unless you fail to spot damage to the shackle, these shackles have a wll and that shackle will also have a design factor of I believe 6:1 meaning it takes 6 times the wll to achieve the ul or ultimate load/breaking strength of that shackle.
Recipe for failure using a yank strap inserted in an open receiver hitch with ONLY the hitch pin securing it! That pin can shear off during a violent yank, not designed for that amount of stress. If you can afford $1500-1800 sliding truck drawers you can afford a proper hitch receiver shackle mount.
I may be wrong but i think that fire extinguisher has been recalled.
One more expert that doesn’t know the difference between working load limit and breaking strength
Really good down to earth video. But I would like mention. While a soft shackle is okay, there’s a reason in real heavy lifting they use rated steel shackles. With a rope shackles having a breaking strength around 20-30k lbs. Depending on brand. A USA rated Crosby with break in the neighborhood of 75k lbs. plus all rated shackles have a minimum of 6X working load break strength. Just my two cents. Overall though, great video, hard to find reasonable information out there.
2 shackle hitch receivers, 2 soft shackles, 20' recovery strap is my car to car recovery setup. I'm assuming the other vehicle does not have a shackle hitch.
Generally good information. However, you indicated your Gator-Jaw was stronger than your bow-shackle. That is incorrect. You indicated that the Gator-Jaw is has a rated breaking strength of 32,000lbs. However, you compare that to the WORKING LOAD LIMIT (WLL) of the bow-shackle and ignore its breaking strength. Your average 3/4" shackle has, as you noted, a 4.75 ton WLL. What you seem to miss is that is has a 5:1 or 6:1 safety factor. So, at the minimum that shackle has a breaking strength of 5x9500 lbs (5x4.75 ton) or 47,500 lbs. If it is a high-quality Crosby shackle, it has a 6:1 safety factor and is rated at 57,000lbs minimum breaking strength. In both cases, that is substantially more than that soft shackle. Not saying the soft shackles don't have other benefits...but that one is NOT stronger.
Also, Crosby makes, it's the 3/4" IIRC, a high strength version that is around 7 tons WLL. I'm sure it's on their website if anyone cares to look.
when he was talking about bow shackles and he said "these sometimes break" i was wondering if they were trying to recovery a combine with an army tank or something? hahahaha
what happened with part 2???
Hello there !! how can we distinguish between a tow strap and a recovery or a snatch strap , they both look basically the same.
IMO, the difference is marketing. What I look for is no metal hooks attached to it.
You're only other option is treat it like a lifting sling, which means, if there is no readable tag, throw it away.
There's way more to it than marketing; different construction gives each type of strap different properties for their specific uses. If you haven't yet learned the actual differences and why they're used they way they are, you need to do some more studying for your own safety before you start trying recoveries. The way you'll be able to tell the difference at first is that the product will be clearly marked with a description and specifications when you go to purchase or order your own. If you find some random strap or shackle laying around that you think you want to throw in your vehicle to save a few bucks- don't. You don't know what it's already been through, so you don't know what kind of load it can handle. You can also go down to a store that carries such items and look at them on the shelf to familiarize yourself. Most farm supply stores, truck stops, Harbor Freight and even Home Depot carry both tow and snatch straps for under $50.
@@PNWJEEPER01 The material makes a bigger difference that the construction.
You can get a Crosby rated shackle if you like, but any screw type shackle is fine as long as it is big enough. Most shackles are stronger than anything on a vehicle.
Any quality shackle is designed to deform when overloaded, so, if it's bent, toss it.
Also, don't go to big box stores, look at online stores that cater to off-road use or find a local store, if you can, that specifically sells stuff for trucks or off-road. They will have a selection of straps geared for that specific use.
I've never seen a strap at any box box store, auto parts store, or farm store that I'd buy for off-road recovery unless for some unimaginable reason I would have no other options.
@@l337pwnage The main point here was about straps and how to tell or learn what type you're looking at. The store is a great place to do that at no cost. The second point was about doing your own research, instead of working off of incomplete or incorrect knowledge gleaned from TH-cam videos, which it appears is your situation, l337.
We've been using straps purchased at the local farm store to pull out our farm tractors and combines for decades; those machines weigh far more than any Jeep or pickup ever has or will and get way more stuck. You don't need to go to an off-road retailer to get a good strap as long as you make sure you get a correctly rated strap for the weight and type of pull, though that is becoming a common mis-perception that I'm sure the industry greatly appreciates. Most importantly, do some actual research and learn the specifics of equipment for yourself, rather than listening to the armchair warriors here and what they think they know. TH-cam is great for entertainment purposes, but there's really nothing here to help you tell between good and bad information, so do your own research.
@@PNWJEEPER01 For tractors, we just used chains. You're gonna spend big money on synthetics strong enough to move a tractor. That's not even in the ball park of light vehicle straps. You aren't getting a run, you are just using shear torque, weight, and traction at that point.
I've never seen anything but the most basic ropes and straps at a farm store.
They do have some cool stuff, tho. I got some 1.5" or 2", I don't recall, but it's huge, natural fiber rope that I permanently spliced around the front of my jeep's bumper for looks, lol. Natural fiber is too weak for recovery use, but looks cool on the bumper. :)
And the only things I've ever seen packaged with the words "tow" or "recovery" on them were the cheap junk that's only 20' long. And the label is usually on the box, and not the strap.
how about use a crosby shackle...... they will never break, especially for towing.
why should I not just place the tow strap or recovery strap loop over the 2" ball on my hitch?
A ball on your hitch is designed to carry a load that is being pulled slowly and the forces from a load coming up to typical driving speeds and braking. Recover ropes and straps typically are being “yanked” which increases the forces on the ball as much as 15 times more that of typical towing. The ball on your hitch is not designed to handle these types of instantaneous forces resulting in the possibility that the ball is sheered off becoming a projectile. Possibly destroying what ever it hits either a vehicle, person or something of value. Obviously, recovery is extremely dangerous and doing it improperly just increases the danger. Please remember, I am no expert just and wheeling enthusiast. Be safe out there my friends.
@@Bullfighter6262 I agree ... thanks for the info and advice ! The only recover I've done has been pulling vehicles out of snowbank or slippery ice where they have no traction. I am going to get some good gear, and retire the ball hitch for towing only. Thanks Again. Rhino, MT USA
9:00 I like that you use the words DRIVE UP ON. I understand we are to DRIVE up on these FIRST to cross that muddy bog vs drive out of a hole... If you can't get these under your tires you can't Drive up on them so Drive onto them FIRST, before you get stuck.
You say don't use a shackle because it can kill you. Then in the video you use a shackle to hook the red trailer receiver to the rope.
fire extinguisher is useless in the back of the truck if the engine is on fire
you beat me to that comment. Needs to be mounted within arms reach of driver's position.....mounted along front face of seat mounts is good, so it's right near your heels. Also, one of these is a much safer and better idea: extinguishstick.com/
@@billroach2393i have mine mounted in the passenger side left side of the footwell area, my truck is stick shift so it is mounted on the side of the transmission hump. that way i can reach it easily and so can the passenger incase im knocked out for some reason, they can easily see it. i mounted mine there because anyone can see it there so if i had to yell at someone to grab it from my truck they would see it right away. on mine i also only used 1 screw to mount the brack. so instead of messing with detaching the bracket you just rip it out and your good to go
Oh shaaad upp
@@geraldwilliams8320 well thats because thats a fire truck, if you have a cab fire or engine bay fire do you really wanna have to go dig for it in the back of the vehicle? or would you rather have it mounted on the trans tunnel. mine is mounted in the passenger foot well on the side of the trans tunnel hump. easy access and i have just 1 little screw holding it with the bracket so if it was needed you just grab it and yank on it to get it out no need to undo from the bracket
Good info but I can’t get over the huge fart around 3 minutes
Not gonna lie, I thought it was too at first lol but he's just clearing his throat