For an Engineering project at BYU-Idaho, we failed climbing carabiners in 3 ways: along the major axis, the minor axis (cross-loaded), and nose-hooked.
I would like to see a test of a set of carabiners that have been stressed with a hundred minor shock loads to induce stress hardening and then see if they really have lost a significant amount of strength
The hang gliding industry moved away form aluminum climbing carabiners years ago when a few failed under static pilot weighting. Metal fatigue is generally blamed though it would be interesting to try to replicate these cases in a controlled environment.
I saw your link on a rock climbers link list and your video's a little dated but wanted to send kudos and share some questions and comments. I think the UIAA that tests and certifies climbing equipment performs impact load, e.g. shock load, tests and this test appears to apply the force gradually over 2mins. Many aluminum biners are rated for a breaking strength around 22kN. Could you guys comment on the 32kN failure and whether it's attributable to the gradual application of the forces rather than the application of an impact load. Did you guys do any calculations based on different velocities (particularly for the typical free fall with acceleration g) for the vectors? It would be interesting to see dynamics calculations and empirical tests of popular climbing carabiners to see if there are noticeable differences among typical climbing carabiners. I've seen a fair number of physics papers on fall factors but some fatigue and impact load tests and calculations based on typical rock climbers of say 80Kg falling at regular lead intervals of fractions of a meter from say 0-1 second would be interesting. A lead fall of 5 meters isn't uncommon but might be a neat upper bound.
they test the load capacity on each batch of carabiners when they make them. They make them by 100+ in 1 batch, and then they test one of each batch to ensure that they work as advertised. You can see the load bearing capacity on the carabiners but remember to use it the proper way.
VicariousReality7 Well the average man weighs somewhere around 690 Newtons and can produce up to and above 24 kN falling just 1.2 meters or 4 feet. So... a lot. More if they fall further. Check out this video testing slings: dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/
+TheBlackStealth this is true if they were falling with a non dynamic rope, however climbers use dynamic ropes that are designed to stretch and take some of the force out of the fall. What this means is that if you are higher up the fall has less impact as there is more rope stretch.
I would like to see a test of a set of carabiners that have been stressed with a hundred minor shock loads to induce stress hardening and then see if they really have lost a significant amount of strength
The hang gliding industry moved away form aluminum climbing carabiners years ago when a few failed under static pilot weighting. Metal fatigue is generally blamed though it would be interesting to try to replicate these cases in a controlled environment.
I saw your link on a rock climbers link list and your video's a little dated but wanted to send kudos and share some questions and comments.
I think the UIAA that tests and certifies climbing equipment performs impact load, e.g. shock load, tests and this test appears to apply the force gradually over 2mins. Many aluminum biners are rated for a breaking strength around 22kN. Could you guys comment on the 32kN failure and whether it's attributable to the gradual application of the forces rather than the application of an impact load.
Did you guys do any calculations based on different velocities (particularly for the typical free fall with acceleration g) for the vectors? It would be interesting to see dynamics calculations and empirical tests of popular climbing carabiners to see if there are noticeable differences among typical climbing carabiners.
I've seen a fair number of physics papers on fall factors but some fatigue and impact load tests and calculations based on typical rock climbers of say 80Kg falling at regular lead intervals of fractions of a meter from say 0-1 second would be interesting. A lead fall of 5 meters isn't uncommon but might be a neat upper bound.
To any experienced climbers...which carabiners would you suggest? I purchased some made from polymer. All comments welcome.
Are you still alive? Never hear of a polymer carabiner for climbing. You need carabiners rated for at least 20 kN major axis strength.
Richard Hill good lord! Polymer carabiners are not used for climbing.
Steel.
Does it apply to all carabiners like roadeavour?
they test the load capacity on each batch of carabiners when they make them. They make them by 100+ in 1 batch, and then they test one of each batch to ensure that they work as advertised. You can see the load bearing capacity on the carabiners but remember to use it the proper way.
How many newton can a falling man produce
VicariousReality7 Well the average man weighs somewhere around 690 Newtons and can produce up to and above 24 kN falling just 1.2 meters or 4 feet. So... a lot. More if they fall further. Check out this video testing slings: dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/
+TheBlackStealth this is true if they were falling with a non dynamic rope, however climbers use dynamic ropes that are designed to stretch and take some of the force out of the fall. What this means is that if you are higher up the fall has less impact as there is more rope stretch.
+Doug Reid Yeah I know, if a fallling climber had 24Kn transfered to their spine every time they fell, it would be shattered and severed.
Im türkişh
İngiliş talk