Breaking a dropped carabiner

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 38

  • @sacasanova
    @sacasanova 7 ปีที่แล้ว +20

    Pretty cool to see used gear being tested. Thanks for what you do for the climbing community.

  • @carlosmartinezreborned6403
    @carlosmartinezreborned6403 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great test Richard with very interesting results. I would like to see more videos like these!

  • @americopedroni6837
    @americopedroni6837 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You always have a deep review of your preferred methods, absolutely no fanfare or art. Which sometimes can be distracting And preventing the entirety of a concept. As always great video.

  • @JefAlanLong
    @JefAlanLong 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Nice work! I found that reassuring, that the break was so far removed from the point where it was previously impacted, and not far from what the biner is rated at anyway, I had been led to believe that an impact on a hard surface can seriously weaken aluminium biners. Thanks for this

    • @gschgvt2956
      @gschgvt2956 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      JefAlan Long The point of breakage seems diametrically opposed to the point of impact. Just hazarding a guess, but, it seems possible that is the location where the shockwaves traveling in opposite directions around the biner met, possibly amplifying each other and causing more stress at that point. While I'm impressed at the relatively little loss of strength, I would have been even more impressed if it broke somewhere else.

    • @JefAlanLong
      @JefAlanLong 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Yeah I'm pretty sure the rivet/articulating part where the gate swings failed first. After that you're only good for 7kn so it's hardly surprising that the opposite side failed so quickly. Anyways I'm not saying I'd keep climbing on one I'd dropped out of a tree but it's just reassuring in terms of occasionally throwing one (I prefer steel ones on my lanyards for throwing) and littleimpacts against the tree trunk etc

    • @samuelluria4744
      @samuelluria4744 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      You gotta be flexible.... an "impact against a tree" is one thing...but a 50' drop onto concrete, for an aluminum 'biner, for example.... I will keep a mental note of such things, and usually not completely retire it, but rather, refrain from using it on it's own without backup - depends on the duty. Like you, the throwing ends of my lanyards are mostly steel; one old one is an exception, cause I'm attached to it ( pun intended🤓)

  • @fustratedfisher
    @fustratedfisher 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I wouldn't think that a drop would make a beener any weaker well a drop like he said anyway. And man you look at the mbs on items all the time and don't give them a second thought but man if a body was subjected to that much force so the equipment failed I don't think a body would take it. You would be one hurting person if you survived. Tbats a lot of force to break hardware and the ropes. I will never doubt my equipment again. As always I will inspect every piece before any climb but new confidence. In the gear. Thanks for taking the time to do all the tests.

  • @TreeCamper
    @TreeCamper 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    And I was worried about a 4 foot drop on to concrete.

  • @NHlocal
    @NHlocal 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Good stuff Richard!
    Thanks for posting that up!
    Be safe!
    Randy

  • @stihlsavvy
    @stihlsavvy 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    We should drop one from 80' and see if it makes a difference. Maybe 80' ten times. It would be interesting but start to get expensive..

  • @CanyoneeringUSA
    @CanyoneeringUSA 7 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    You mean, we should not be concerned about the hairline fractures that do not exist???

  • @treehuger1978
    @treehuger1978 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    i found one 12 months after i left it behind. it was fully exposed to the seasons. I still use it as a preventer on devices. Wonder if it should be tested.

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I suspect that unless it shows significance signs of rust, probably not with aluminum, there is no strength loss but does the gate function well? That would be the question in my mind, internal springs etc.

    • @treehuger1978
      @treehuger1978 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@RichardMumford1 slightly faded and yes aluminium. Gate functions perfectly. Had a burn proof prusik rope attached to it which faded but use it as a foot prusik now.

  • @TreeCamper
    @TreeCamper 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So the gate, not the spine, was the weak part.

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thus the reasoning for tying an anchor knot with the working side against or in line with the spine right

  • @justinduce2255
    @justinduce2255 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I snatch my friction savers (FS) from the tree. Sometimes they hit concrete, metal fence post etc. I am afraid to abuse a FS constructed with DMM rings so I have my FS made with steel. Am I using steel rings for no reason? I would love to see you strength test a DMM ring that has been abused. At what level of abuse does the ring get compromised?

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I think it is generally good practice to keep the life support tools from impacts with techniques for retrieval. That being said, I think the rings can take quite a bit of abuse but that brings us back to why should they.

  • @ecodeacon1
    @ecodeacon1 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well done !

  • @adventureswithfrodo2721
    @adventureswithfrodo2721 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Okay gate failed then one e d od oval deformed. Then as force was exerted back was stressed and broke. Now repeat at least 3 more times to even be able to start a conclusion.

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      At least 3 more times. No conclusions here, I wouldn't call it testing, just breaking for free and observing a discussion starter.

  • @brainscrub7976
    @brainscrub7976 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very cool! What kind of device do you use for measuring the force required to break the carabiner?

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Official equipment from Wirerope and Scottload for break testing. The bench/frame was made locally.

  • @Dolmar-Rick
    @Dolmar-Rick 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Richard. Interesting vid, do you have a conclusion then... I'm guessing this would of been safe to climb on maybe? . I would of thought the gate is a weak link which will always break first? Cheers Rick 👌

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      RIck Evans I have no conclusion, nor would I make one. If I drop a carabiner 40 feet on concrete I'll put it on my break test machine and see what it does but I'm not going to use it with my life.

    • @Dolmar-Rick
      @Dolmar-Rick 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Richard Mumford. Sorry yeah I wasn't meaning it should be still kept in service, just wondered what you thought... thats cool. Great work.🤗

    • @samuelluria4744
      @samuelluria4744 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hey Richard! Wow! I just used "50' onto concrete" as an example in a previous comment, not having seen what you wrote here....funny. Yeah, aluminum is not exactly the best material for absorbing concussive force.... 😬😓..... I definitely am constantly cognizant of its brittleness....

  • @axelpalee
    @axelpalee 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Problems. The forces when the carabiner moves along the 12mm pin and hits the corner might themselves cause the breaking a few kN before the actual limit. Thanks for the video but please, make your rig stabile for the tests to be credible.

  • @dan-dan-da-treeman
    @dan-dan-da-treeman 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    That was awesome!

  • @arborsamurai
    @arborsamurai 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank You.

  • @samuelluria4744
    @samuelluria4744 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I HATE the DMM 'biners!!! Especially the oval ones! I have a bunch that I use for utilitarian purposes....Like keychains, or holding open the door on an excavator, or for hauling blowers up onto roofs....😏.......the dimensions are funny, the grip is not knurled deeply enough, and the spring action is to radical. Rock Exotica and Petzl for THIS sailor!!! ISC is too vulnerable to the elements.

    • @TreeCamper
      @TreeCamper 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      You can send all your extra biners to me 😀

  • @max-zl1vm
    @max-zl1vm 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    that's VERY concerning that it was rated for 27 Kn but broke at 23 Kn

    • @RichardMumford1
      @RichardMumford1  6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      max 25kN

    • @bellini98-1
      @bellini98-1 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      No. Nono. No and no again. It was rated 25. It broke at 23.92 so 4% less than declared. It's not concerning at all. Hope you are joking

    • @antisocialclimber
      @antisocialclimber 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Feel like my spine would break at 16kn so I'm not toooo worried.