*****I MADE A MISTAKE :( Class C weighting should be used for checking your speaker LEVELS. Class C is better suited for low to medium frequencies since it is flatter on the frequency response curve. Class A, on the other hand, is better suited for high frequencies and less accurate at lower frequencies. Sorry for the confusion. I hope this makes it out to all of you :)
Because you are the man, and I trust that you know what you’re doing, I bought the same meter on Amazon; thanks for that link by the way! But I’m still confused on if I should use A or C weighted on my 7.2.4 layout.
I agree about the importance of calibration. I know a few people with good systems and when I tell them it's important to calibrate levels and distances they shrug it off like it doesn't make any difference. The answer might be "why? I hear sound in all speakers anyway" and I try to explain why but they don't seem to buy in the benefits which is, imo, a big waste of money. You might not hear when it's wrong but when you compare to when it's right you hear the big difference. If you don't bother with these kind of things I think it's better to just buy a soundbar or just crank the volume up on the tv's speakers tbh.
Chales homies. I hella dig this video. I will adjust my speakers manually since I lost my mic that came with my Denon. Kudos for putting this well video.
When you mentioned using the iPhone measurement tool I was gonna mention that it’s usual off by 1/4”-1”, but you did notice that. I do love that it gives that AR look to all your measurements though. One thing I don’t like about auto calibrating on my Denon AVR-x6300h is that my 2 subs weren’t as punchy as I wanted so I did bump up those speaker levels
It may sound stupid to you, but I have to ask :) How much do you set the volume Knob on the AVR's remote while doing this manual measurement with SPL? I've read a few sources, they said 0, but when I bring it to zero from the remote, no sound comes out even if we increase it anyway, so I wanted to ask you the truth.
Found this good when using SMS-1 & Rotel Quote: Originally Posted by craig john Hi Mark, If I may, I would like to elaborate here a little bit... (OK, well, maybe more than a "little bit!" ) First, the SMS-1 is a great device for helping to optimize subwoofer placement in the room prior to any EQ or calibration. To use it for this, just turn off the speakers and play only the sub. Disable all EQ in the SMS-1 and set everything else to baseline. Then place the mic at the primary LP and move the subwoofer around room while watching the FR on the OSD. Place the sub in the spot that measures the flattest without any EQ. This will make it much easier to EQ the system later, as you will need less cuts or boost to get a perfectly flat response. Second, when setting levels, there are 4 different level settings that need to be accounted for: 1. Master Volume Control 2. Subwoofer and Speaker Trims 3. SMS-1 Level 4. Subwoofer Level These will all interact and they all need to be taken into account prior to doing any calibrations or EQ. To set the levels, and then EQ the system with the SMS-1, I suggest the following progression: 1. Start by setting all trims in the receiver to 0. (We'll come back later and re-set these for calibration purposes, but for now, set them to 0.) 2. Set ALL speakers to Small AND all crossover frequencies to 80 Hz. Reasons: The SMS-1 expects the use of Bass Management, which is what you engage when you set the speakers to Small. Therefore, to get proper results from the SMS-1, you need to set the speakers to "Small" and engage BM. The SMS-1 can *only* EQ the subwoofer channel. It can NOT EQ the speakers. This is very important to realize. Any filters set above the crossover point will have little effect on the subwoofer output and minimal effect on the overall response. Limiting the range of the subwoofer channel by using a low crossover point, limits the range available for the SMS-1 to EQ. IOW, if you set a 60 Hz crossover, the SMS-1's EQ will only be effective to 60 Hz. Therefore, set the crossover as high as possible without localization of the subwoofer, which is almost always 80 Hz. Page 42 of your manual, (see below), describes the Bass Management scenarios for your receiver. You can either use a "global" crossover for all "Small" speakers and the sub, or your receiver allows for different crossover frequency settings for the subwoofer and the speakers. The subwoofer crossover is really just an LPF, whereas the global crossover is an LPF and an HPF at the same frequency. IMO, you should use the same frequency for the HPF on the speakers and the LPF on the sub. Therefore, I recommend you use the global crossover setting of 80 Hz, for all speakers and the subwoofer. Also, set the "Stereo" mode to "Speakers = Small". This will engage Bass Management for 2-channel sources and make your subwoofer active for 2-channel content. This is *very* important for optimal EQ with the SMS-1, as described below. The Phase Control on the SMS-1 is centered at 80 Hz. While it is better to use the receiver's distance setting to effect the response around the crossover point, if you do want to use the SMS-1's Phase Control, it will only be effective with an 80 Hz crossover. 3. Next, on the SMS-1, select Preset: Setup and set all EQ bands to 0. (A default reset is the easiest way to do this. See Page 41 of the SMS-1 User Manual, linked below.) 4. Set the SMS-1 Level to +15. Reason: This is the setting for "Unity Gain" in the SMS-1. The SMS-1 is not an amplifier. You don't want to use the SMS-1 to add gain to the signal. You want it to add or reduce the gain of various frequencies *relative* to the average level, but you don't want it to increase the overall average level. "Unity Gain" means that there is no gain across the device, and the output signal is the same level as the input signal.) 5. Set the Subwoofer Gain Level at it's lowest setting. (We'll turn it up later.) 6. Turn on the left front speaker test tone. Adjust the receiver's MVC so the left front speaker reads 75 dB* at the primary LP. This MVC setting will be the "Reference Level" setting from this point forward.** Remember it. 7. Without changing the MVC setting, shut off the left front speaker and turn on the subwoofer test tone. Turn up the gain on the subwoofer until the SPL meter at the primary LP reads 75 dB. The SMS-1 should also read an "average" level of about 75 dB. (Once you've set this, you should never need to adjust the subwoofer's gain setting again, unless you move the sub.) 8. Now, go back and calibrate all of the speakers to 75 dB at the primary LP. Use the receiver's trim controls as described on Page 43 & 44 of the manual. Once you've done this, your system is fully calibrated for levels, and all of the settings are optimized in each device. 9. Proceed with manual EQ with the SMS-1. Put the receiver into "Stereo" mode. EQ the sub in isolation, (with the speakers off or disconnected), getting it as flat as possible up to the rolloff point of the speaker/subwoofer crossover you set in the receiver. (Remember that in Step 2 above, we set the "Stereo" output to engage Bass Management. Even though the speakers are off here, the bass from the L/R channels will still be re-directed to the sub.) (Remember also that any slider bands set above the crossover point will be wasted, so move them all over into the range below the crossover point.) 10. Once the subwoofer is EQ'd, turn the subwoofer test tone back on and reset the level to 75 dB. However, this time use the SMS-1's level control to adjust the volume to 75 dB. This will reset the SMS-1 for exact Unity Gain. 11. Finally, turn the speakers back on and evaluate the response around crossover point. Adjust the subwoofer distance setting in the receiver to optimize the response around the crossover point. 12. Re-check the full system calibration to ensure all speakers and the sub are at 75 dB. Once you've done the entire process above, you'll have a fully calibrated system with optimized frequency response of the subwoofer. I suggest you try to live with that system for a few days or weeks. Some people are so used to a bloated or "hot" subwoofer level that they feel the bass is "missing" with a true "calibrated" and Eq'd level. Nonetheless, once they re-acclimate themselves to "flat" bass response, they begin to hear detail and articulation in the bass that was previously overwhelmed by bass bloat and boom. Having said that, some people just don't "like" a flat FR of the subwoofer, and they prefer a rising LF response. There is nothing wrong with that, and everyone is allowed their own preference. If you're one of those people, you have a few options. The first option is to just raise the MVC. This will raise the overall system output, but you should also get closer to the bass response you are looking for. (This also assumes that the rest of your system is up to the task. If it's not, don't try to get bass response at the expense of your speakers! ) If that is still not enough, and you want to raise the subwoofer's output above the rest of the system, I suggest you initiate the Submersive's DSP Program 2. This adds a rise in the response below about 40 Hz, with 3 dB added at about 20 Hz. This should add the feel and kick you are looking for. You can view the effect of Program 2 by watching the response on the SMS-1. It should look like a rising response above about 40 Hz. If that's *still* not enough, the third option is to raise the SMS-1's level. This will take you above "Unity Gain" on the SMS-1, but *judicious* use of the control should not be problematic. 3 to 6 dB of level increase should be taken in stride by the Submersive. If the above suggestions don't get you were you want to be, then the only hope for you is another Submersive or 2 or 3. Craig Footnotes from #6 above: *The Rotel uses -30 dBFS for it's test tones, so the test tones should read 75 dB on the SPL meter, ("Slow" setting and C-weighting.) **The Rotel appears to be a "relative" MVC, (it goes from 0, (Off), to positive numbers), as opposed to an "absolute" MVC, which sets Reference Level at 0, and negative level settings indicate the dB below Reference Level.
I have the same exact SPL meter I use C weighted and slow there is nothing on and no one's home when I do my test it's real erratic won't stay still enough to get a decent reading also I see no difference in slow or fast what settings do you have on the SLP meter besides c weighted and slow
C-weighted slow will be akin to an average level. This is what you should be using for calibration for level adjustment. As long as your speakers aren't jumping erratically more than one whole db at a time, you're fine. Minor discrepancies are fine and you're likely seeing room issues such as modal issues or reflection issues that confuse the meter for a hot second, making your reading inaccurate. More time may be required for an accurate read on speakers since you're essentially taking an average response of level. Subwoofers will jump around due to how standing waves interact at the location of meter but again, just get it as close as possible.
Home Theater Dude is kick'n it with tutorials. Another great one, easy to follow. More great information. I used you last video, to go from Atmos height, to Atmos overheads on my 5.2.2 system. Stayed with the same speakers, just moved them while following your video. Overheads in my room totally added a new dimension in sound. Thanks for the videos!
Looking closer at your center, I can't tell if its angled. I have the same L/C/R with a PB 3000. I'm using the same stand and have my center on top with metal cones (flat side down x 4), that have rubber tips as supports to get the center a little higher and off the glass and inline with the tweeters of the mains. They came off an old pair of speaker stands I no longer use. Looks kinda cool. Also, I flipped the screens over on my mains and attached them upside down. Old screens from previous speakers have gotten tattered in the past from being stored in a closet somewhere:) Thanks again for all you do. Made a shopping list for some more tweaking of my gear/room based on this video and the the one you did for SoundAssured. .
Whilst filmed a while ago, still a great resource. Quick question with respect to setting subwoofer levels. Once set, do you ever find yourself needing to adjust the volume of your Svs via the Svs onboard amp?
Guys, I just setup my new Marantz AV7705 today (Just purchased and a 2nd SVS PB3000 subwoofer) using a Radio Shack SPL (Analog) if you can still find one. It should be setup at C weighted using slow response per Audioholics youtube video. I ran Audyssey auto calibration and when it was finished, I replaced the MIC on my tripod with my Radio Shack SPL Meter and set the Marantz master volume to 0db. I then adjusted all of the speaker trim levels to 75db. I then worked with SVS support to dial in the subwoofers. Now it sounds great. My next step is use REW to finish my subwoofer calibrations. I've never used REW before so it should be interesting. Good Luck Guys PM
I used Audessy, it had my distances way off... Once I fixed that, it sounded better... But I still prefer this method, for setting distances... I've yet to get a meter, but I will soon.
The whole issue I see doing it manually and using advanced auto calibration Dirac Live, Audessey, MCACC Pro etc the other aspects of tuning like Phase corrections and alignment, standing wave corrections and a lot more that gets adjusted and also is dynamic in nature to adjust for source. Manual to me is only to fine tune the distances, the cross over settings etc, so will use it as additional verification step than main way of setting it up
Didn’t see whether this was mentioned but Audyssey at least is temporarily disengaged when you run the test tones directly on the receiver. You need to instead use a disk with test tones like DVE or Spears and Munsil. It makes no sense to use the AVR when your calibration is disabled. Best to use the disk on your BD/UHD player with the calibration enabled.
I just used an SPL app on my phone that has a c weighted option it worked really good checked how sensitive it actually was and bringing it forward and back was reading more or less consistently
Hello, thank you for the great setup video. Question; I just setup in my bedroom (11x11) a Bose Acoustimass 5.1 system with an Onkyo TX-NR727 receiver. I ran Audyssey but I am still hearing more in the 2 back surround speakers. I have all speakers set to 60hz per Audyssey. Do I turn the db to a negative number? Example, if I have my center at -3.0db, front L&R at -7db, sub at -3db and the 2 rear speakers at -5db, is this a good setup? Or, should I turn the rear speaker db to 0db? Sorry for the long question, I am new to the home theater sound quality. Thank you!
Love the setup and the idea of using the iOS tape measure. However I was confused what was being measured with the microphone and how you need to then make adjustments. Is it you just want all the speakers to be the same decibels so if it one speaker is lower you add decibels to it.? Thanks.
You are measuring decibels, his are at 75dbs, obviously the higher the decibels, the louder. I set my receiver at 0.0 volume and cycle my speakers to hit 80 decibels.
JimmyDee go to levels on your avr /processor. If there is a low med high feature on the levels set it to med. if the low med high is absent then go into levels. Go to your receiver and turn the volume up to 0.0db. If you don’t have this scale then usually 75 -80 is what’s used on your volume. Then in the speaker levels you adjust them up or down to all reach the exact same dB on your dB meter. Usually the standard is 75db on the readout of the dB meter.
I used C weighted slow to calibrate. I wonder would it be worth the trouble to go back and do it in A weighted? Some good info here, thanks for doing the video. Awesome setup you have.
Audyssey got the distances withing a 1cm when i measured, even the atmos bouncer speakers where spot on. (well if you measured the distance from the speaker to the ceiling first) The Levels when tested were not as i wanted them. Why use the sketchy title ? Audyssey does EQ too.I don't understand the title.
i specifically stated in the video that when I do audyssey that it gives the wrong levels, distances, sizes and crossovers. The reason for this video was to explain that even old ways of speaker calibration are still valuable. Im not crapping on anything. Im just giving people more info
Better to physically measure the distance of each speaker(s) in relation to main seating area. This will ensure equal distance. Then run audyssey for the calculations and use spl meter to ensure you have equal sound presence on speaker(s) at 75db. That's what THTD is saying, but it's personal preference use whatever tickles you pickle. That's how I do it.
Great video! Why is the subwoofer distance always so off and farther than it actually is? Should I adjust it to actual distance I get from a tape measure? Thanks!
Andrew Mitchell so the tape measure works well for that? Because my sub is next to one of my mains and it measure the sub as being so far more than what it actually is
try moving the distance on the AVR setting and see if it sounds better or worse. Sometimes subs take longer or shorter to get to the MLP. ALso this is an easy way to modulate the sub frequency response curve in your room
What I’ve learned from using a SPL meter when setting your sub distance with the meter, I went from actual distance and added a foot and looked at the meter, sometimes the meter would drop a few dB. And sometimes it would jump a few dB. , I continue adding a foot to the distance and check the meter to see what gave me the most dB. That’s the footage you want to stick with when setting subwoofer distance with the SPL meter
You mentioned your opinions on Audyssey calibration but didn’t mention the XT32 version that lets you set curves and filters. In my opinion Dirac Live, MiniDSP, REW are all superior than most AVR calibration systems but require a lot more time and are not simple. Audyssey XT32 is quite a bit more sophisticated than the takedown version or other AVR calibration systems (YPAO, MCACC) and got me great results in my difficult room, and let me do adjustments to my curves after the initial measurement with relative ease and all on my phone. I believe the convenience to performance ratio is quite high on Audyssey XT32 on top of being attached to some great hardware in the flagship to midrange Marantz/Denon lineup.
I get what you are saying, but i just did the cal on the marantz and it was way off. Only one speaker level out of 16 was proper, the sizes were all different, the crossovers were wrong and the speaker sizes were wrong. Im sure on yours everything was perfect but my experience with them is that they arent always the most accurate. Im sure the paid app for your smart device helps out a ton, i just have not used it to optimize the PEQ.
Hi Chris I have a question to ask you I have a 7.1 home theater receiver and I'm having trouble getting my back surround speakers to work when I am watching a movie the speaker intocater on the receiver lights up as 6.1 and not 7.1 model number is pioneer vsx-1016txv and I have my side surround speakers and my back surround hookup up only to the back of the receiver and my center channel and left and right speakers are connected to a kenwood power amplifier and the front stage is connected to the pre output on the receiver with RCA cords and I went through the owners manual for the receiver and I can't seem to figure it out but I didn't have a chance to go through all the different surround settings like Dolby Surround Sound or DTS ETC and I am coming to ask you for your help as I am a big fan of your videos and I like the sound of your home theater system and hope you may please help to try to figure this problem I am having with my home theater system and I thank you in advance chris my name is Chris as well. 😊
Don't for get Rew has its gone generator you can run pink noise and set the -db off set to your needs to test. Then determine if low, medium, or high works best for your needs. Or with audyssey what volume you need to set the AVR at to be equal too. Example my x4200 was off like 4 db, but I also found out that the test tone also wasn't the same signal level. So determine what your base level is at of your avr or processor's pink/white noise.
Tim, the point of this video was to show people how to calibrate without a calibrated mic or software. but you are right. there are many ways to approach it
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude plus Rew software is free, no extra cost they can still use there SPL meter..... So still applies. So now you can make a more advanced video to explain 😉
I get different measurements from Audyssey on my Denon x7200wa, tape measure, and the app on my iPhone 11 Pro Max LOL. On the app, you feel a bump when you hit the anchor point, lol. Here are a couple of issues, Audyssey is setting timing with the measurements, especially the subs. I actually hold my mic while sitting on my LazyBoy. I use all 8 points of measurement, but they are all within the parameters of my chair. I’ve done the tripod thing, moving it around within 2 feet, frankly I’m getting better soundstage results with my method. Here is a question, with Denon & Marantz, they use one foot as 1.0-1.9, 2.0-2.9, 3.0-3.9, and so on. We all know that a foot is 12 inches and not 10. You may want to suggest people wear headphones while doing the test tone for setting up volume levels. 0.0 is extremely loud! My AT-M50x work great to protect my ears. I have done the measurements with my phone and gotten different distance results each time.
The auto calibration will set the speakers at its own crossover depending on what it hears from the speakers. THX is 80hz, but not all speakers are able to roll off below that frequency. If you have THX approved speakers then you set it for sure to 80hz.
Hello have important question. Im found out that the normal room meseuring is absolute crap because of the Lack of prcessorpower of the denon avr. Just the multieq app can handle those mesure data. When i add the dynamiceq Future in the app and send this Settings top the avr the Sound ist absolutely nice!. The Problem is that denon do not enough to Tell that this is important for this lovely Sound. Why is that.? They put a product in the Market that could be a ferarri but its only a Ford...... with the regular mesurement. Do You have similar experiance with that?
I just got the same SPL Meter but it has up and down arrows on it, do I need to change that? Default is 30 but if I click on the bottom arrow it changes it to under 80/70/60. Would that be the range?
I use to do all this manual BS, I found Audyssey measurements to be perfectly fine. Also it'll compensate for any DSP's or other sources of delay you might have in a sub for example.
"When ever it comes out I'm sure it's going to be far superior to the other things that are technically on the market right now" What makes you so sure?
Everyone that used dirac that i have talked to rant about its flexibilty and sound quality. I should have chose my words different. I dont like to go off hearsay. So i should have left that statement out until I tested it myself
Great vid -- I have a meter coming today and am excited to do this calibration. I've done the Audyssey calibration and it set my speakers all in the range of -6.0 or lower. I find myself having to crank the master volume on the amplifier much higher now to get the punch and presence I want. I understand the meter is used to make sure all my speaker volumes are equal (same db level using the meter). Here is my question: what would happen if I boosted all the speaker levels up to say -2.0 or even 0? Will it allow my speakers and amp to work harder and produce more sound, or will it also screw up my Audyssey-imposed room corrections?
I still dont get it, ive tried putting my vol to 0, but no sound, it doesn’t explained how to do the volume, i been reading alot of questions on how to, but no answer.
Isn't the point of measuring not the distance but how long it takes for the sound to reach that specific spot? That's why you run auto calibration then you can change levels accordingly
Thanks for the video. I have a marantz av receiver. A few years old but does everything I need. It has Audysey (complete with cardboard mike stand... What is that all about??). If I notice the auto room correction gets the speaker distance/crossover slightly wrong: can I tweak the measurements myself (using tape measure and dB meter) and still get the Audyssey working correctly? Or is Audyssey locked to the measurements it took?
ideally, the time it takes the AVR to send a signal to your speakers and then interpreted by the mic dictates distance. This can vary from line of sight distance. There are different people that swear by either method. just pick one and move on. You can change the auto calibration that audyssey does after its completed
Good . I m using Yamaha HTR 3072. Pl suggest what Master Volume to be set on AVR while using SPL Meter for setting DB Level. My MV start from 1 to 100 or if I select DB than it show in DB. If I set MV on 0 than SPL meter is not giving any effect in case of MV 1 to 100. If I set it on 60 to 65 than SPL meter start giving effect. If I changed MV in DB and set it to 0 than I have to set DB level in minus or more than -10 but there is -10 is max level. For achieving 75 DB level on speaker 60 to 65 MV is giving result. So pl suggest n reply what to do? I m not happy with YAPO result. My Flat area is 120 sq feet. All bookshelf speakers and Sub woofer r from Yamaha. 5.1 system. YAPO is OK for distance only
Thank you for this video, unfortunately the measure tool on the iPhone is not accurate. It’s always of by a couple of centimeters (Europe). And for audio, that’s a substantial difference. Room calibration software are always on point when it comes to distance measurements. Also two subwoofers on the front looks good, but is the worst placement for a good response. You are hearing a fraction of what these beasts can do. Why limit yourself?
So when you sit down you never move your head more than a couple of centimeters? Every time you sit there? I guess the person next to you is really screwed huh?
sermerlin1 the bass is not evenly divided in his room. If he has dips in his response on the left sub, chances are that the right one has the same response. When the right sub would be positioned diagonally in the back, his response could be much better.
@@WIZARTthe Well... I don't think that's how air moves. If it was only one sub at the front left and it had frequency dip in certain spot... The second sub that is on the front right will fill in those dips. You can try it yourself. Move to the left of the room and to the right of the room (if your sub is in front left or right) and you will notice dips and peaks are certain to one side of the room and when you add another sub to to the front it will fill in those peaks as it is opposite to the first sub meaning all the dips and frequencies that the first one has will be filled in by the second. You will get best frequency response of dual sub by placing them in the middle of the room at each side but placing them on the front or diagonally it really depends. In both cases it will work and you will not have any lack of frequency response.
sermerlin1 could be true for some situations, but most of us have living rooms or odd shaped rooms and this front setup is not always the best response. Audioholics have covered this topic several times and they explained this is detail.
Is it normal to have speaker level differences of 1db or more between left and right. I ask because Audyssey keeps picking up one speaker as always being quieter. I notice you have set your speakers different levels. Should it be identical if room is symetrical and cables etc are same?
I tried running Audyssey on my Nad M15HD Processor and it couldn’t tell if my speakers were properly in phase or not ... that was as far as I got I binned it off after that
Hi great video , can you make a video on how to manual calibrate when you have amplifier separate's per channel , like me a have dolby atmos set up so I have 8 separate amplifier's plus bi-amp the tweeter's I would gladly appreciate it thanks.
All amps are 1st control by onkyo PR‑SC5530 than all out puts go to mini dsp for crossover and eq and then output goes to all 7 amplifiers which are balanced inputs.
SO you want me to raise the center speaker to mimic the same height as my towers? So i would be looking at a speaker in the middle of my projector screen?
Never that. I've faced the same issues when I had my projector hooked up. I'm using a Vizio 75" P Series until I can afford to upgrade my projector. TV is mounted just high enough for my center to be about an inch or two from being inline with the mains. No question, you know what you're doing. A slip of the eye on my part. I kinda put the video image out of mind at the time because there was no image, duh? Remembering when I had a screen (10 years ago, sigh), I had the same restrictions because of its size (120 inches). Keep doing what you do and I'll keep watching and learning:)
So weather the volume is 1-100 or -100-0 is irrelevant. Volume scale is just that. A volume scale. So what does the " Reference volume scale" actually do for you that 1-100 can't?. I'd really like to know what you get out of it differently that the volume scale 1-100 can't do.
Did I miss the part where he comments on how accurate "Audyssey" is? This is just a setup video. I was looking for a detailed review of the Audyssey results....waste of time.
I'm new to this and had a question about A Weighted vs C Weighted. I've seen many say use C Weighted for home theater including the Subwoofer. Is there a major difference? Is one better than the other? Also I have a Yamaha and I used Ypao to configure my room and speaker distances for me and it automatically adjusted the volume for each speaker. Should I then afterwards use an SPL meter to readjust the volume to 75db after the Yamaha does its own automatic settings? I manually went back in and changed all my speakers to SMALL and I set the crossover to 80hz already.
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude ok thanks. Also can I let my receiver automatically determine the speaker distances automatically using its built in room correction and then go back afterwards and manually change the decibel levels of each individual speaker after with the SPL meter ?
Hello, I have a Marantz sr8012 and my front left and right tower speakers are 9.11 feet away from my listening position. The speaker distance in the Marantz menu only goes up to 9.9 feet and then changes to 10 feet, so no 9.10 or 9.11 feet. If my distance is 9.11 feet should I set my distance to 10 feet or 9.9 feet? Hope you understand my ramble! Thank You!
That Home Theater Dude Thank you! I’m having some other big issues with Audyssey now! It is setting my front left and right crossovers to 200hz, my center to 150hz and my side and back surrounds to 100hz. I’ve heard that it’s ok to go up with crossovers, but not down, because of loss! I planed on seeing 40-60Hz like I have in the past with the same setup, same room and bumping up to 80hz. The only things I have changed is moved my front left and right towers forward and out about 2 inches and my center back about 3 inches so I can have a good surround circle with all of my speakers.
i just did audyssey on the marantz compared to the emotiva today and yet again everything was off. only a single speaker level was proper. most of the distances were off not all of them though. The speaker sizes were wrong on the front stage and all the crossovers were wrong based off of audessey on the marantz av8805
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude mine does good on distance and levels except always soft on the sub. I also boost the heights just for a more lively affect. One of my sad faces about the 8805 is that it seems to have the same level of room correction as the mid level systems. At this price point I think people deserve more.
Hey , Chris. Have you had any out of phase issues before with the Ultra Towers? I’m having this issue and I have my wiring correct and ran it twice with the same issue. Does it matter if I use the top terminals on the towers?
Sorry to be a nuisance but every app I’ve found just measures the levels of the speakers and not the actual distance from the listening area to your speaker position. What was your app called?
Sorry bro scrap that last question. I’ve watched this video a few times now and every time I watched I didn’t realise the app was the measure tool in built in the iPhone. What an idiot I am. 🤣
i never got the XPA amp so I really cant say. I did hook up the flagship processor from marantz today.... there is a difference between the marantz and the emotiva processor for sure.
thx standard is 105db so 85b with 20db headroom is what you are talking about. Thats fine. not going to hurt anything. Most people stay with 75-85 on the calibration. Either is fine just as long as you level match each speaker to the same db
I bought the sound level meter per the video and it seems like even at +12 (speaker channel setting) on my front, centers, and sub it doesnt get to 75db's. I am about 11 ft away from the fronts, center, and sub. Fronts and center are set to small.
How do you level the gain on dual subs? Do I set the av level to 0 and then use the SPL to measure one sub at a time. And set them to 75 db, and then turn both on and use again the SPL to get them at 75? Do i make since lol
Hi, great video, just want to know the brand and model of the SPL meter you used. I am setting up a new system and love to get a SPL for calibration. Please advise, thanks!
i have a pioneer sclx87 and a 7.0 set up i have 6 matching tower speakers and the matching center speaker ..i have set correct distance and set at 75db ...however i have uneaven sound still ..suround left ,suround back left are queter still...roughly same front left and right....the right side suround is realy bassy and back right is less bassy... pritty wierd to say my room is almost a perfect square ..any help would be greatly apreciated
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude speaker distance is spot on ...little bit off when done with microphone but very close.....i have compensated by setting individual eq trims a little higher on the left ....not sure if this is cheating and somthing is a miss..or general acoustics to room. .ie wardrobes and cabinets ...my deep bass is on the right (solid wall) to the right is the bedroom door...wich maybe my problem.....there is no phase output ...uk version i think is automatic....i do however have phase controll on/off or full band setting ...currently seems to like 100hz better ...too boomy at 80hz...least next door texes me when i start shaking there house 😂😂
forgot to mention i have set spl levels at 72db and rears are 75db....weirdly for music this seems a perfect balance (rears seem to be levil to fronts.for some reoson they need to be bit higher..(music only)....movies i quickly drop them to 72 ...why the backs not as loud i dont know but think there made this way my onkyo tx608was the same
Speed of Sound. The speed of sound at 72ºF at sea level is 1.1308 feet/ms. That means for every foot sound has to travel in space, it takes 1.1308 ms to traverse it. Right away you can see the
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*****I MADE A MISTAKE :( Class C weighting should be used for checking your speaker LEVELS. Class C is better suited for low to medium frequencies since it is flatter on the frequency response curve. Class A, on the other hand, is better suited for high frequencies and less accurate at lower frequencies. Sorry for the confusion. I hope this makes it out to all of you :)
Do you have a link to the spl mic
That Home Theater Dude Do a Demo Scene on Avengers Endgame when they Start to Fight Thanos
Because you are the man, and I trust that you know what you’re doing, I bought the same meter on Amazon; thanks for that link by the way!
But I’m still confused on if I should use A or C weighted on my 7.2.4 layout.
Wil Thomas I made a mistake. Use class C weighted on the dB meter. Works great for cal ;)
So just to be clear. Use c for all speakers including subwoofers. Also what was the make and model of spl meter
If this is your first time with Dirac live Chris, what makes you so sure it’s going to be...”superior” to audyssey and the others out there?
I agree about the importance of calibration. I know a few people with good systems and when I tell them it's important to calibrate levels and distances they shrug it off like it doesn't make any difference. The answer might be "why? I hear sound in all speakers anyway" and I try to explain why but they don't seem to buy in the benefits which is, imo, a big waste of money. You might not hear when it's wrong but when you compare to when it's right you hear the big difference.
If you don't bother with these kind of things I think it's better to just buy a soundbar or just crank the volume up on the tv's speakers tbh.
Never set the volume to 0db when setting up before. Sounds soooo much better. Many thanks for this, think I'll setup manually from now on
Chales homies. I hella dig this video. I will adjust my speakers manually since I lost my mic that came with my Denon. Kudos for putting this well video.
When you mentioned using the iPhone measurement tool I was gonna mention that it’s usual off by 1/4”-1”, but you did notice that. I do love that it gives that AR look to all your measurements though. One thing I don’t like about auto calibrating on my Denon AVR-x6300h is that my 2 subs weren’t as punchy as I wanted so I did bump up those speaker levels
It may sound stupid to you, but I have to ask :) How much do you set the volume Knob on the AVR's remote while doing this manual measurement with SPL? I've read a few sources, they said 0, but when I bring it to zero from the remote, no sound comes out even if we increase it anyway, so I wanted to ask you the truth.
You should mention , the master volume on the preamp or receiver should be at 0. that helps a lot.
That depends on what you want your outcome to be. If you want your 0 to be a true reference level, then you would have to calibrate at 105db.
You can still calibrate from 0 to 75db. But that's the fun of the hobby, getting your system to sound good to you.
@@Rafy2613 Exactly.
Thanks guys didn't know master volume had to be at 0 when testing levels
@@Rafy2613 When I run Odyssey does the master volume also have to be at 0
Found this good when using SMS-1 & Rotel
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john
Hi Mark,
If I may, I would like to elaborate here a little bit... (OK, well, maybe more than a "little bit!" )
First, the SMS-1 is a great device for helping to optimize subwoofer placement in the room prior to any EQ or calibration. To use it for this, just turn off the speakers and play only the sub. Disable all EQ in the SMS-1 and set everything else to baseline. Then place the mic at the primary LP and move the subwoofer around room while watching the FR on the OSD. Place the sub in the spot that measures the flattest without any EQ. This will make it much easier to EQ the system later, as you will need less cuts or boost to get a perfectly flat response.
Second, when setting levels, there are 4 different level settings that need to be accounted for:
1. Master Volume Control
2. Subwoofer and Speaker Trims
3. SMS-1 Level
4. Subwoofer Level
These will all interact and they all need to be taken into account prior to doing any calibrations or EQ. To set the levels, and then EQ the system with the SMS-1, I suggest the following progression:
1. Start by setting all trims in the receiver to 0. (We'll come back later and re-set these for calibration purposes, but for now, set them to 0.)
2. Set ALL speakers to Small AND all crossover frequencies to 80 Hz.
Reasons:
The SMS-1 expects the use of Bass Management, which is what you engage when you set the speakers to Small. Therefore, to get proper results from the SMS-1, you need to set the speakers to "Small" and engage BM.
The SMS-1 can *only* EQ the subwoofer channel. It can NOT EQ the speakers. This is very important to realize. Any filters set above the crossover point will have little effect on the subwoofer output and minimal effect on the overall response. Limiting the range of the subwoofer channel by using a low crossover point, limits the range available for the SMS-1 to EQ. IOW, if you set a 60 Hz crossover, the SMS-1's EQ will only be effective to 60 Hz. Therefore, set the crossover as high as possible without localization of the subwoofer, which is almost always 80 Hz.
Page 42 of your manual, (see below), describes the Bass Management scenarios for your receiver. You can either use a "global" crossover for all "Small" speakers and the sub, or your receiver allows for different crossover frequency settings for the subwoofer and the speakers. The subwoofer crossover is really just an LPF, whereas the global crossover is an LPF and an HPF at the same frequency. IMO, you should use the same frequency for the HPF on the speakers and the LPF on the sub. Therefore, I recommend you use the global crossover setting of 80 Hz, for all speakers and the subwoofer. Also, set the "Stereo" mode to "Speakers = Small". This will engage Bass Management for 2-channel sources and make your subwoofer active for 2-channel content. This is *very* important for optimal EQ with the SMS-1, as described below.
The Phase Control on the SMS-1 is centered at 80 Hz. While it is better to use the receiver's distance setting to effect the response around the crossover point, if you do want to use the SMS-1's Phase Control, it will only be effective with an 80 Hz crossover.
3. Next, on the SMS-1, select Preset: Setup and set all EQ bands to 0. (A default reset is the easiest way to do this. See Page 41 of the SMS-1 User Manual, linked below.)
4. Set the SMS-1 Level to +15.
Reason:
This is the setting for "Unity Gain" in the SMS-1. The SMS-1 is not an amplifier. You don't want to use the SMS-1 to add gain to the signal. You want it to add or reduce the gain of various frequencies *relative* to the average level, but you don't want it to increase the overall average level. "Unity Gain" means that there is no gain across the device, and the output signal is the same level as the input signal.)
5. Set the Subwoofer Gain Level at it's lowest setting. (We'll turn it up later.)
6. Turn on the left front speaker test tone. Adjust the receiver's MVC so the left front speaker reads 75 dB* at the primary LP. This MVC setting will be the "Reference Level" setting from this point forward.** Remember it.
7. Without changing the MVC setting, shut off the left front speaker and turn on the subwoofer test tone. Turn up the gain on the subwoofer until the SPL meter at the primary LP reads 75 dB. The SMS-1 should also read an "average" level of about 75 dB. (Once you've set this, you should never need to adjust the subwoofer's gain setting again, unless you move the sub.)
8. Now, go back and calibrate all of the speakers to 75 dB at the primary LP. Use the receiver's trim controls as described on Page 43 & 44 of the manual. Once you've done this, your system is fully calibrated for levels, and all of the settings are optimized in each device.
9. Proceed with manual EQ with the SMS-1. Put the receiver into "Stereo" mode. EQ the sub in isolation, (with the speakers off or disconnected), getting it as flat as possible up to the rolloff point of the speaker/subwoofer crossover you set in the receiver.
(Remember that in Step 2 above, we set the "Stereo" output to engage Bass Management. Even though the speakers are off here, the bass from the L/R channels will still be re-directed to the sub.)
(Remember also that any slider bands set above the crossover point will be wasted, so move them all over into the range below the crossover point.)
10. Once the subwoofer is EQ'd, turn the subwoofer test tone back on and reset the level to 75 dB. However, this time use the SMS-1's level control to adjust the volume to 75 dB. This will reset the SMS-1 for exact Unity Gain.
11. Finally, turn the speakers back on and evaluate the response around crossover point. Adjust the subwoofer distance setting in the receiver to optimize the response around the crossover point.
12. Re-check the full system calibration to ensure all speakers and the sub are at 75 dB.
Once you've done the entire process above, you'll have a fully calibrated system with optimized frequency response of the subwoofer. I suggest you try to live with that system for a few days or weeks. Some people are so used to a bloated or "hot" subwoofer level that they feel the bass is "missing" with a true "calibrated" and Eq'd level. Nonetheless, once they re-acclimate themselves to "flat" bass response, they begin to hear detail and articulation in the bass that was previously overwhelmed by bass bloat and boom.
Having said that, some people just don't "like" a flat FR of the subwoofer, and they prefer a rising LF response. There is nothing wrong with that, and everyone is allowed their own preference. If you're one of those people, you have a few options. The first option is to just raise the MVC. This will raise the overall system output, but you should also get closer to the bass response you are looking for. (This also assumes that the rest of your system is up to the task. If it's not, don't try to get bass response at the expense of your speakers! )
If that is still not enough, and you want to raise the subwoofer's output above the rest of the system, I suggest you initiate the Submersive's DSP Program 2. This adds a rise in the response below about 40 Hz, with 3 dB added at about 20 Hz. This should add the feel and kick you are looking for. You can view the effect of Program 2 by watching the response on the SMS-1. It should look like a rising response above about 40 Hz.
If that's *still* not enough, the third option is to raise the SMS-1's level. This will take you above "Unity Gain" on the SMS-1, but *judicious* use of the control should not be problematic. 3 to 6 dB of level increase should be taken in stride by the Submersive.
If the above suggestions don't get you were you want to be, then the only hope for you is another Submersive or 2 or 3.
Craig
Footnotes from #6 above:
*The Rotel uses -30 dBFS for it's test tones, so the test tones should read 75 dB on the SPL meter, ("Slow" setting and C-weighting.)
**The Rotel appears to be a "relative" MVC, (it goes from 0, (Off), to positive numbers), as opposed to an "absolute" MVC, which sets Reference Level at 0, and negative level settings indicate the dB below Reference Level.
I juse the C - weighting dB meter measuring to measure so wide a response as possible when calibrating speaker level.
I use REW with Umik-1 calibrated mic with it's SPL feature
Seems like a better way to go because you will need it to do EQing.
@@taylorsrus9543 correct, software is free so rather put the money to the Umik-1 instead of just a SPL meter.
I have the same exact SPL meter I use C weighted and slow there is nothing on and no one's home when I do my test it's real erratic won't stay still enough to get a decent reading also I see no difference in slow or fast what settings do you have on the SLP meter besides c weighted and slow
C-weighted slow will be akin to an average level. This is what you should be using for calibration for level adjustment. As long as your speakers aren't jumping erratically more than one whole db at a time, you're fine. Minor discrepancies are fine and you're likely seeing room issues such as modal issues or reflection issues that confuse the meter for a hot second, making your reading inaccurate. More time may be required for an accurate read on speakers since you're essentially taking an average response of level. Subwoofers will jump around due to how standing waves interact at the location of meter but again, just get it as close as possible.
@@andrewpolitano should I have the meter set to 75db or lower?
I use "c" weight and slow to get an accurate reading. If you use high instead it's very erratic. Great video!
yeah. I mispoke. You SHOULD use DBc to measure. I made the correction on the video description and pinned comment
Home Theater Dude is kick'n it with tutorials. Another great one, easy to follow. More great information. I used you last video, to go from Atmos height, to Atmos overheads on my 5.2.2 system. Stayed with the same speakers, just moved them while following your video. Overheads in my room totally added a new dimension in sound. Thanks for the videos!
Awesome! I am still trying to bust out those home theater basics series, but i am swamped right now
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude Doing a awesome job brother!
Looking closer at your center, I can't tell if its angled. I have the same L/C/R with a PB 3000. I'm using the same stand and have my center on top with metal cones (flat side down x 4), that have rubber tips as supports to get the center a little higher and off the glass and inline with the tweeters of the mains. They came off an old pair of speaker stands I no longer use. Looks kinda cool. Also, I flipped the screens over on my mains and attached them upside down. Old screens from previous speakers have gotten tattered in the past from being stored in a closet somewhere:) Thanks again for all you do. Made a shopping list for some more tweaking of my gear/room based on this video and the the one you did for SoundAssured.
.
awesome! The center is angled up on studio foam
Whilst filmed a while ago, still a great resource. Quick question with respect to setting subwoofer levels. Once set, do you ever find yourself needing to adjust the volume of your Svs via the Svs onboard amp?
Guys, I just setup my new Marantz AV7705 today (Just purchased and a 2nd SVS PB3000 subwoofer) using a Radio Shack SPL (Analog) if you can still find one. It should be setup at C weighted using slow response per Audioholics youtube video. I ran Audyssey auto calibration and when it was finished, I replaced the MIC on my tripod with my Radio Shack SPL Meter and set the Marantz master volume to 0db. I then adjusted all of the speaker trim levels to 75db. I then worked with SVS support to dial in the subwoofers. Now it sounds great.
My next step is use REW to finish my subwoofer calibrations. I've never used REW before so it should be interesting.
Good Luck Guys
PM
yep thats exactly how to do it. i made a mistake by saying A weighted
What level did you have your master volume at? When I turn mine down to 0.0 dB I can’t hear any pink noise from my Marantz.
I absolutely love the B&W 600 S3 series. I still have the 604's from New in the same condition.
yeah they are very pleasing to the ear
i love them too
I used Audessy, it had my distances way off... Once I fixed that, it sounded better... But I still prefer this method, for setting distances... I've yet to get a meter, but I will soon.
I use a tape measure to measure my speaker distances and its pretty accurate. But once again great video HTD as always.
The whole issue I see doing it manually and using advanced auto calibration Dirac Live, Audessey, MCACC Pro etc the other aspects of tuning like Phase corrections and alignment, standing wave corrections and a lot more that gets adjusted and also is dynamic in nature to adjust for source. Manual to me is only to fine tune the distances, the cross over settings etc, so will use it as additional verification step than main way of setting it up
Didn’t see whether this was mentioned but Audyssey at least is temporarily disengaged when you run the test tones directly on the receiver. You need to instead use a disk with test tones like DVE or Spears and Munsil. It makes no sense to use the AVR when your calibration is disabled. Best to use the disk on your BD/UHD player with the calibration enabled.
I just used an SPL app on my phone that has a c weighted option it worked really good checked how sensitive it actually was and bringing it forward and back was reading more or less consistently
yeah SPL/ C weighted is good. I misspoke when i talked about the A weighted. I got my facts wrong
What's the name of the app? Does it work with android? Thanks
Don't use ab app. Purchase a SPL meter. A Radio Shack one if you can find one.
Hello, thank you for the great setup video. Question; I just setup in my bedroom (11x11) a Bose Acoustimass 5.1 system with an Onkyo TX-NR727 receiver. I ran Audyssey but I am still hearing more in the 2 back surround speakers. I have all speakers set to 60hz per Audyssey. Do I turn the db to a negative number? Example, if I have my center at -3.0db, front L&R at -7db, sub at -3db and the 2 rear speakers at -5db, is this a good setup? Or, should I turn the rear speaker db to 0db? Sorry for the long question, I am new to the home theater sound quality. Thank you!
there is no answer i can give you. whatever your readings come up with in your space are up to you
Love the setup and the idea of using the iOS tape measure. However I was confused what was being measured with the microphone and how you need to then make adjustments. Is it you just want all the speakers to be the same decibels so if it one speaker is lower you add decibels to it.? Thanks.
You are measuring decibels, his are at 75dbs, obviously the higher the decibels, the louder. I set my receiver at 0.0 volume and cycle my speakers to hit 80 decibels.
Ramon Barajas right on Ramon that’s how you do it.
JimmyDee go to levels on your avr /processor. If there is a low med high feature on the levels set it to med. if the low med high is absent then go into levels. Go to your receiver and turn the volume up to 0.0db. If you don’t have this scale then usually 75 -80 is what’s used on your volume. Then in the speaker levels you adjust them up or down to all reach the exact same dB on your dB meter. Usually the standard is 75db on the readout of the dB meter.
Ok thanks for clarifying, I will give it a go.
I have and use a laser tape measure 😉
I used C weighted slow to calibrate. I wonder would it be worth the trouble to go back and do it in A weighted? Some good info here, thanks for doing the video. Awesome setup you have.
I use c as well, a is too fast on my meter, so I cant hit steady number
Audyssey got the distances withing a 1cm when i measured, even the atmos bouncer speakers where spot on. (well if you measured the distance from the speaker to the ceiling first)
The Levels when tested were not as i wanted them.
Why use the sketchy title ? Audyssey does EQ too.I don't understand the title.
i specifically stated in the video that when I do audyssey that it gives the wrong levels, distances, sizes and crossovers. The reason for this video was to explain that even old ways of speaker calibration are still valuable. Im not crapping on anything. Im just giving people more info
My audyssey was off by about a foot on each speaker, and 3 feet on the sub for distance. This is xt32 on a Denon x3300
Better to physically measure the distance of each speaker(s) in relation to main seating area. This will ensure equal distance. Then run audyssey for the calculations and use spl meter to ensure you have equal sound presence on speaker(s) at 75db. That's what THTD is saying, but it's personal preference use whatever tickles you pickle. That's how I do it.
@@pooter4e552 yes I know. I do the same, I just don't understand the title. What is exposed ? , like saying it's crap and lying, don't use it.
check the title
Great video! Why is the subwoofer distance always so off and farther than it actually is? Should I adjust it to actual distance I get from a tape measure? Thanks!
It's not measuring the distance, it's the time it take for the sound to reach MLP
Andrew Mitchell so the tape measure works well for that? Because my sub is next to one of my mains and it measure the sub as being so far more than what it actually is
try moving the distance on the AVR setting and see if it sounds better or worse. Sometimes subs take longer or shorter to get to the MLP. ALso this is an easy way to modulate the sub frequency response curve in your room
What I’ve learned from using a SPL meter when setting your sub distance with the meter, I went from actual distance and added a foot and looked at the meter, sometimes the meter would drop a few dB. And sometimes it would jump a few dB. , I continue adding a foot to the distance and check the meter to see what gave me the most dB. That’s the footage you want to stick with when setting subwoofer distance with the SPL meter
@@Bryan-hd7nm No it doesn't, the delay is caused by the subwoofer dsp. The dsp can add around 100ms, which is why an avr has further away
You mentioned your opinions on Audyssey calibration but didn’t mention the XT32 version that lets you set curves and filters.
In my opinion Dirac Live, MiniDSP, REW are all superior than most AVR calibration systems but require a lot more time and are not simple.
Audyssey XT32 is quite a bit more sophisticated than the takedown version or other AVR calibration systems (YPAO, MCACC) and got me great results in my difficult room, and let me do adjustments to my curves after the initial measurement with relative ease and all on my phone.
I believe the convenience to performance ratio is quite high on Audyssey XT32 on top of being attached to some great hardware in the flagship to midrange Marantz/Denon lineup.
I get what you are saying, but i just did the cal on the marantz and it was way off. Only one speaker level out of 16 was proper, the sizes were all different, the crossovers were wrong and the speaker sizes were wrong. Im sure on yours everything was perfect but my experience with them is that they arent always the most accurate. Im sure the paid app for your smart device helps out a ton, i just have not used it to optimize the PEQ.
Hom much volume do u use when u make the calibration?
Hi Chris I have a question to ask you I have a 7.1 home theater receiver and I'm having trouble getting my back surround speakers to work when I am watching a movie the speaker intocater on the receiver lights up as 6.1 and not 7.1 model number is pioneer vsx-1016txv and I have my side surround speakers and my back surround hookup up only to the back of the receiver and my center channel and left and right speakers are connected to a kenwood power amplifier and the front stage is connected to the pre output on the receiver with RCA cords and I went through the owners manual for the receiver and I can't seem to figure it out but I didn't have a chance to go through all the different surround settings like Dolby Surround Sound or DTS ETC and I am coming to ask you for your help as I am a big fan of your videos and I like the sound of your home theater system and hope you may please help to try to figure this problem I am having with my home theater system and I thank you in advance chris my name is Chris as well. 😊
Don't for get Rew has its gone generator you can run pink noise and set the -db off set to your needs to test. Then determine if low, medium, or high works best for your needs.
Or with audyssey what volume you need to set the AVR at to be equal too.
Example my x4200 was off like 4 db, but I also found out that the test tone also wasn't the same signal level. So determine what your base level is at of your avr or processor's pink/white noise.
Tim, the point of this video was to show people how to calibrate without a calibrated mic or software. but you are right. there are many ways to approach it
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude just meant for you to determine what best for your Emotiva till the Dirac is available to test.
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude plus Rew software is free, no extra cost they can still use there SPL meter..... So still applies. So now you can make a more advanced video to explain 😉
Thank you for sharing this info. Extremely helpful!!
I get different measurements from Audyssey on my Denon x7200wa, tape measure, and the app on my iPhone 11 Pro Max LOL. On the app, you feel a bump when you hit the anchor point, lol.
Here are a couple of issues, Audyssey is setting timing with the measurements, especially the subs. I actually hold my mic while sitting on my LazyBoy. I use all 8 points of measurement, but they are all within the parameters of my chair. I’ve done the tripod thing, moving it around within 2 feet, frankly I’m getting better soundstage results with my method.
Here is a question, with Denon & Marantz, they use one foot as 1.0-1.9, 2.0-2.9, 3.0-3.9, and so on. We all know that a foot is 12 inches and not 10.
You may want to suggest people wear headphones while doing the test tone for setting up volume levels. 0.0 is extremely loud! My AT-M50x work great to protect my ears.
I have done the measurements with my phone and gotten different distance results each time.
why do you use 75db as a reference point?
Is it possiable you can do a Dirac live set up the ones on line makes thing more confusing Thxs
what's your crossover frequency settings?
The auto calibration will set the speakers at its own crossover depending on what it hears from the speakers. THX is 80hz, but not all speakers are able to roll off below that frequency. If you have THX approved speakers then you set it for sure to 80hz.
Ugh I want those svs speakers but the center speaker doesn’t fit in my tv stand where I have my current center speaker :( lol
Speaker is so massive
Hello have important question. Im found out that the normal room meseuring is absolute crap because of the Lack of prcessorpower of the denon avr. Just the multieq app can handle those mesure data. When i add the dynamiceq Future in the app and send this Settings top the avr the Sound ist absolutely nice!. The Problem is that denon do not enough to Tell that this is important for this lovely Sound. Why is that.? They put a product in the Market that could be a ferarri but its only a Ford...... with the regular mesurement. Do You have similar experiance with that?
WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE YOUR PROJECTOR SCREEN , PLEASE
SonicChill1 on youtube. look in my video description and the contact info is all in there
DONT SEE IT LISTED
Thank you Chris for these excellent videos. Would you mind doing videos on SVS app and setup on minidsp mic.
done it. no one watched it
I just got the same SPL Meter but it has up and down arrows on it, do I need to change that? Default is 30 but if I click on the bottom arrow it changes it to under 80/70/60. Would that be the range?
Well done demo/video and info thank you.......... UK
How much did you pay for your DB meter? Which one did you get?
I have a Samsung s21 ultra not a iPhone will this work on my phone ?
Awesome setup, maybe upgrade center to SVS Ultra too keep up with monster subs!
it is the ultra center...
Dear what master volume set on AVR. If set on 0 so no volume. I m using yamaha HTR 3072 AVR. If i set MV up to 75 DB then only SPl meter work
I use to do all this manual BS, I found Audyssey measurements to be perfectly fine. Also it'll compensate for any DSP's or other sources of delay you might have in a sub for example.
"When ever it comes out I'm sure it's going to be far superior to the other things that are technically on the market right now" What makes you so sure?
Everyone that used dirac that i have talked to rant about its flexibilty and sound quality. I should have chose my words different. I dont like to go off hearsay. So i should have left that statement out until I tested it myself
Dirac is so buggy atm. that I would not use high praise of that.
Can you use REW calibrate the speaker levels properly?
Great vid -- I have a meter coming today and am excited to do this calibration. I've done the Audyssey calibration and it set my speakers all in the range of -6.0 or lower. I find myself having to crank the master volume on the amplifier much higher now to get the punch and presence I want. I understand the meter is used to make sure all my speaker volumes are equal (same db level using the meter). Here is my question: what would happen if I boosted all the speaker levels up to say -2.0 or even 0? Will it allow my speakers and amp to work harder and produce more sound, or will it also screw up my Audyssey-imposed room corrections?
Do you set the trim? I boosted that up from zero and now I dont need to turn up my receiver as high. 35 is perfect for movies now.
Should your receiver be set to maximum volume when doing the reading ?
I still dont get it, ive tried putting my vol to 0, but no sound, it doesn’t explained how to do the volume, i been reading alot of questions on how to, but no answer.
Isn't the point of measuring not the distance but how long it takes for the sound to reach that specific spot? That's why you run auto calibration then you can change levels accordingly
it is. this was meant to give a roundabout setup for beginners
Thanks for the video. I have a marantz av receiver. A few years old but does everything I need. It has Audysey (complete with cardboard mike stand... What is that all about??). If I notice the auto room correction gets the speaker distance/crossover slightly wrong: can I tweak the measurements myself (using tape measure and dB meter) and still get the Audyssey working correctly? Or is Audyssey locked to the measurements it took?
ideally, the time it takes the AVR to send a signal to your speakers and then interpreted by the mic dictates distance. This can vary from line of sight distance. There are different people that swear by either method. just pick one and move on. You can change the auto calibration that audyssey does after its completed
When you're fixing your db levels what volume do you have it set to? My volume is really low when I turn test tones to level match.
Good . I m using Yamaha HTR 3072. Pl suggest what Master Volume to be set on AVR while using SPL Meter for setting DB Level. My MV start from 1 to 100 or if I select DB than it show in DB. If I set MV on 0 than SPL meter is not giving any effect in case of MV 1 to 100. If I set it on 60 to 65 than SPL meter start giving effect. If I changed MV in DB and set it to 0 than I have to set DB level in minus or more than -10 but there is -10 is max level. For achieving 75 DB level on speaker 60 to 65 MV is giving result. So pl suggest n reply what to do? I m not happy with YAPO result. My Flat area is 120 sq feet. All bookshelf speakers and Sub woofer r from Yamaha. 5.1 system. YAPO is OK for distance only
Dirac Live been out like 15yrs, surprised you haven't tried it or gotten a demo yet ?
Great video, what’s the target for C weighted for subs? Still 75db?
75, but you can run them higher if it sounds better to you
Thank you for this video, unfortunately the measure tool on the iPhone is not accurate. It’s always of by a couple of centimeters (Europe). And for audio, that’s a substantial difference. Room calibration software are always on point when it comes to distance measurements.
Also two subwoofers on the front looks good, but is the worst placement for a good response. You are hearing a fraction of what these beasts can do. Why limit yourself?
Why is it worst placement for a good response?
So when you sit down you never move your head more than a couple of centimeters? Every time you sit there? I guess the person next to you is really screwed huh?
sermerlin1 the bass is not evenly divided in his room. If he has dips in his response on the left sub, chances are that the right one has the same response. When the right sub would be positioned diagonally in the back, his response could be much better.
@@WIZARTthe Well... I don't think that's how air moves. If it was only one sub at the front left and it had frequency dip in certain spot... The second sub that is on the front right will fill in those dips.
You can try it yourself. Move to the left of the room and to the right of the room (if your sub is in front left or right) and you will notice dips and peaks are certain to one side of the room and when you add another sub to to the front it will fill in those peaks as it is opposite to the first sub meaning all the dips and frequencies that the first one has will be filled in by the second.
You will get best frequency response of dual sub by placing them in the middle of the room at each side but placing them on the front or diagonally it really depends. In both cases it will work and you will not have any lack of frequency response.
sermerlin1 could be true for some situations, but most of us have living rooms or odd shaped rooms and this front setup is not always the best response. Audioholics have covered this topic several times and they explained this is detail.
I'm new here, is the goal when calibrating to get all the speakers to the same level? I have a Samsung Atmos soundbar
i dont think this applies to your situation
what decibel level are you adjusting speaker level to? 75?
75
Is it normal to have speaker level differences of 1db or more between left and right. I ask because Audyssey keeps picking up one speaker as always being quieter. I notice you have set your speakers different levels. Should it be identical if room is symetrical and cables etc are same?
I tried running Audyssey on my Nad M15HD Processor and it couldn’t tell if my speakers were properly in phase or not ... that was as far as I got I binned it off after that
Hi great video , can you make a video on how to manual calibrate when you have amplifier separate's per channel , like me a have dolby atmos set up so I have 8 separate amplifier's plus bi-amp the tweeter's I would gladly appreciate it thanks.
how does the signal go into the amplifier? is it a single RCA split into 2 then into two different amplifier banks?
All amps are 1st control by onkyo PR‑SC5530 than all out puts go to mini dsp for crossover and eq and then output goes to all 7 amplifiers which are balanced inputs.
Hi what do you set your svs sub in the eq paramtric in the app which has 3 settings ?
Hello again. I love your set and hope to hit that mark someday. Why do you have your center speaker sitting lower than the tweeters on your mains?
SO you want me to raise the center speaker to mimic the same height as my towers? So i would be looking at a speaker in the middle of my projector screen?
Never that. I've faced the same issues when I had my projector hooked up. I'm using a Vizio 75" P Series until I can afford to upgrade my projector. TV is mounted just high enough for my center to be about an inch or two from being inline with the mains. No question, you know what you're doing. A slip of the eye on my part. I kinda put the video image out of mind at the time because there was no image, duh? Remembering when I had a screen (10 years ago, sigh), I had the same restrictions because of its size (120 inches). Keep doing what you do and I'll keep watching and learning:)
OOPS! I forgot to say, I pull that off by putting my center on the top shelf and my Denon on the second.
So weather the volume is 1-100 or -100-0 is irrelevant. Volume scale is just that. A volume scale. So what does the " Reference volume scale" actually do for you that 1-100 can't?. I'd really like to know what you get out of it differently that the volume scale 1-100 can't do.
what volume does the receiver need to be on when testing speakers and how many db does the meter need to read?
Set receiver volume to 0. Set each speaker dB to 75db.
How do you change the range to 70 on this spl meter?
Odb on Denon and Msrantz means 75db? Not 80db? Why the scale is from -80 to +18? 0 should be 80db then!
how much do you set the volume gain before setting it to 75? like the master volume in general
0
Did I miss the part where he comments on how accurate "Audyssey" is? This is just a setup video. I was looking for a detailed review of the Audyssey results....waste of time.
I prefer manual calibration with db checker each speaker
What speed should I be testing at? My meter has fast or slow
i prefer slow
Get a laser measurement. It'll be your best friend :)
thats an option too
Before I run YPAO should I set my receiver main volume to 0.0?
yep
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude Thanks
I'm new to this and had a question about A Weighted vs C Weighted. I've seen many say use C Weighted for home theater including the Subwoofer. Is there a major difference?
Is one better than the other?
Also I have a Yamaha and I used Ypao to configure my room and speaker distances for me and it automatically adjusted the volume for each speaker. Should I then afterwards use an SPL meter to readjust the volume to 75db after the Yamaha does its own automatic settings?
I manually went back in and changed all my speakers to SMALL and I set the crossover to 80hz already.
i made a mistake. C weighted is best for speakers and subs. I stated it wrong in the video...
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude ok thanks. Also can I let my receiver automatically determine the speaker distances automatically using its built in room correction and then go back afterwards and manually change the decibel levels of each individual speaker after with the SPL meter ?
yes you can. thats the best way to do it too. sometimes the computer gets it wrong
Hello,
I have a Marantz sr8012 and my front left and right tower speakers are 9.11 feet away from my listening position. The speaker distance in the Marantz menu only goes up to 9.9 feet and then changes to 10 feet, so no 9.10 or 9.11 feet. If my distance is 9.11 feet should I set my distance to 10 feet or 9.9 feet?
Hope you understand my ramble!
Thank You!
it really depends on the latency of the speaker, sometimes line of sight does not equal the distance on the AVR. id try 9.9 for now
That Home Theater Dude Thank you! I’m having some other big issues with Audyssey now! It is setting my front left and right crossovers to 200hz, my center to 150hz and my side and back surrounds to 100hz. I’ve heard that it’s ok to go up with crossovers, but not down, because of loss! I planed on seeing 40-60Hz like I have in the past with the same setup, same room and bumping up to 80hz. The only things I have changed is moved my front left and right towers forward and out about 2 inches and my center back about 3 inches so I can have a good surround circle with all of my speakers.
hello I have a question what is the ideal reference volume of the receiver to reach 80db
0
I wonder if people that have a lot of problems with auto distances have odd reflection or dead spots in their rooms.
i just did audyssey on the marantz compared to the emotiva today and yet again everything was off. only a single speaker level was proper. most of the distances were off not all of them though. The speaker sizes were wrong on the front stage and all the crossovers were wrong based off of audessey on the marantz av8805
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude mine does good on distance and levels except always soft on the sub. I also boost the heights just for a more lively affect. One of my sad faces about the 8805 is that it seems to have the same level of room correction as the mid level systems. At this price point I think people deserve more.
yeah. I was expecting the Platinum audyssey suite to be much better, but seemed just like the lower denon or marantz
Which brand is your equipment rack?
personally I have the omnimount 18u av rack. I cant find links for it on amazon. this one is pretty close amzn.to/2Z9ryFB
My God! you got some Serious subs bro!
Unnecessary subs
Hey , Chris. Have you had any out of phase issues before with the Ultra Towers? I’m having this issue and I have my wiring correct and ran it twice with the same issue. Does it matter if I use the top terminals on the towers?
issues? no. It says check phase on the towers sometimes. I just leave it be.
That Home Theater Dude Thanks, some say it’s the side firing woofers that cause this. I just ignored it and continued
@@arckanum332 me too. i ndont get ear fatigue and the speaker distances are around the same aon aoto cal so empirically there is no phase issue
@@arckanum332 yikes *** same on auto cal ^^^
What was the electronic instrument used to measure the distance of speakers?
a decibel meter
Sweet as thanks for that man. 👍🏻
Sorry to be a nuisance but every app I’ve found just measures the levels of the speakers and not the actual distance from the listening area to your speaker position. What was your app called?
Sorry bro scrap that last question. I’ve watched this video a few times now and every time I watched I didn’t realise the app was the measure tool in built in the iPhone. What an idiot I am. 🤣
Did you find any differences in sound on the Emotiva vs the Parasound?
i never got the XPA amp so I really cant say. I did hook up the flagship processor from marantz today.... there is a difference between the marantz and the emotiva processor for sure.
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude Which do you prefer and how much of a difference is there.
i'll make a vid about it soon.
Isn’t the standard for big theaters to calibrate at 85db? I got mine at 85 😬should I go down to 75db?
thx standard is 105db so 85b with 20db headroom is what you are talking about. Thats fine. not going to hurt anything. Most people stay with 75-85 on the calibration. Either is fine just as long as you level match each speaker to the same db
Yeah I just calibrated all of them at 85db I used to have all of them at 80db and the height speaker at 85db to but hardly any difference
cool
How much volume do u use when u make the calibration?
Set receiver volume to 0
Why is the screen and projection so low it casts on the AvR and equipments ?
because its huge?
I bought the sound level meter per the video and it seems like even at +12 (speaker channel setting) on my front, centers, and sub it doesnt get to 75db's. I am about 11 ft away from the fronts, center, and sub. Fronts and center are set to small.
did you turn up the volume on the AVR to 75 before messing with the levels?
Raise the volume on your receiver to 0db on its display. Then calibrate all your speakers to 75db using the SPL.
Nice step by step explanation Thxs U the Man Lol
How do you level the gain on dual subs? Do I set the av level to 0 and then use the SPL to measure one sub at a time. And set them to 75 db, and then turn both on and use again the SPL to get them at 75? Do i make since lol
its the same as one sub, just do the levels independent and keep the gains on the sub the same
I LIKE IT!! Another Great Review!!!
how do I contact you?
the home theater dude at gmail.com
Hi, great video, just want to know the brand and model of the SPL meter you used. I am setting up a new system and love to get a SPL for calibration. Please advise, thanks!
Nice informative video 😃
Perfect bro👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️
i have a pioneer sclx87 and a 7.0 set up i have 6 matching tower speakers and the matching center speaker ..i have set correct distance and set at 75db ...however i have uneaven sound still ..suround left ,suround back left are queter still...roughly same front left and right....the right side suround is realy bassy and back right is less bassy... pritty wierd to say my room is almost a perfect square ..any help would be greatly apreciated
check phase and speaker distance.
@@ThatHomeTheaterDude speaker distance is spot on ...little bit off when done with microphone but very close.....i have compensated by setting individual eq trims a little higher on the left ....not sure if this is cheating and somthing is a miss..or general acoustics to room. .ie wardrobes and cabinets ...my deep bass is on the right (solid wall) to the right is the bedroom door...wich maybe my problem.....there is no phase output ...uk version i think is automatic....i do however have phase controll on/off or full band setting ...currently seems to like 100hz better ...too boomy at 80hz...least next door texes me when i start shaking there house 😂😂
forgot to mention i have set spl levels at 72db and rears are 75db....weirdly for music this seems a perfect balance (rears seem to be levil to fronts.for some reoson they need to be bit higher..(music only)....movies i quickly drop them to 72 ...why the backs not as loud i dont know but think there made this way my onkyo tx608was the same
What about the delay of each speaker ×1.1308?
What's that?
Speed of Sound. The speed of sound at 72ºF at sea level is 1.1308 feet/ms. That means for every foot sound has to travel in space, it takes 1.1308 ms to traverse it. Right away you can see the
My test tone makes noise ?