I do thermo forming with vacuum molds and PETG holds up very well to the high temperatures I subject them to. the plastic I use is heated to 190 degrees C and then vacuum formed. brand is sunlu
Heck yea dude. Let me know how it goes and don’t forget an interface layer especially on a glass bed. I didn’t have issues on a textured PEI plate but some people have issues with it sticking on there badly as well
I have an Ender 3, and printed only PLA and PETG so far, but multiple brands. - I usually print PETG at 210 - 235 depending on the model, and brand of material. If it requires high detail, eg. piece of art, lower nozzle temperature is better, although you can't go very low, it's better to print a test piece. If it needs to be strongly bonded and dimensionally accurate eg. a part for a mechanical device, high nozzle temp is better, but overhang gets difficult. - I usually use 0.8mm nozzle with 0.2mm - 0.65mm layer height, depending on the vertical detail I want, (smaller nozzle requires smaller temperature). - Build surface is spring steel PEI - Bed temperature 75-78°C (any higher and PETG may not come off without destroying the build surface.) - I usually use 2-3mm brim for adhesion. (No glue, hair sprey or anything for adhesion... when it cools to 45-35°C it usually comes off of the bed unless it's something very thin.) - Fan speed 20% max (0% at first layer, and 100% for bridging) - I found that low speed works best, 20 - 35 mm/s (which is 1/2 - 1/3 of my usual PLA speed, and first layer at half speed. I also reduce print speed for smaller nozzle. The smallest I used is 0.2mm at half speed.) That being said I started printing about 2 years ago, and I don't print every day, so take it with a grain of salt.
I have used PETG more or less from the start of my 3D printing Journey. I use it for a lot of outdoor usage and had stuff outside for nearly 3 years now and still doing the job here in England. I print 225 nozzle and 70 Bed on a glass bed on an ender 3 v2
First time viewer. Subscribed! Nice 'chill' presentation vibe. Love that you are pragmatic and happy to reevaluate what you try. Very interesting result differences with the clear & black!
I used to print almost exclusively PETG-CF. I leave the bed at 85c for the first layer, and drop to 80c after. My nozzle temps have been 270 for the first layer, and 265 for the rest. I almost never have the layer cooling fan on (but I am printing very large objects mostly) and I get some amazing layer adhesion. For overhangs, my fans will ramp up to 50-60% but only for a brief moment. I have switched to mostly printing ASA-CF and PA-CF for customer parts.
@@KeoPrints ASA and asa-CF I print very hot. 110 on the bed, 270 nozzle. I also leave the bed on and slowly over an hour or so drop the bed temp. This mimics the chamber heaters of a stratasys and helps prevent warping. Works quite well.
That's a fair point. I have had black PLA prints warp inside of hours on hot days before. I have even seen the lighter colors give up when subject to those conditions but of course, when I stage the experiment with this model, no change. Oh well. I may try again with other materials as we move forward with new filaments.
Should be noted that clear PETG is more than likely raw PETG. It probably doesn't have any additives, and color itself is an additive that affects the material properties. Makes sense to me that it would print differently. I had a lot of problems with PETG when I was new to 3D printing and had an Ender 3. Don't know why. Now I have a Prusa Mk4, and I just use the defaults and it works great, which I expect because that's the material they use for their printed parts. The default temperature is 240 for first layer, 245 for other layers (250 if it's Prusament). Maybe it will bond better at even higher temps, but it's very printable at 245-250.
Don’t ever print PETG on a glass bed w/o a good interface layer. PETG bonds to glass and can’t be separated, which will gouge the glass. PETG sticks to itself extremely well, while PLA does not bond quite as well. With a fast printer, you can print PLA as high as 225-230, which does increase the adhesion. Silks though, nothing can really help them, as the chemical properties significantly reduce the layer adhesion. EDIT: There is no real reason to print PLA or PETG below 300mm/s on your printer. You may need to tune the settings, but on your printer, 300mm/s should be the norm. TPU will need to print slower, and some Nylons may need to as well. ABS & ASA are designed for speed and high temps.
Elegoo ASA - .6 Noz = 270 layer 1, 265 rest. Bed 95. Chamber 55. Layer height is .3. Let print fully cool before removing. I find some subtle warping if removed too quickly. I used to print in PETG, but I have switched to ASA. Almost everything I print is functional and in my yard (Texas heat is brutal even on PETG).
Good to note about PETG and the Texas heat! I do like ASA as an option for general functional parts. Good heat/chemical resistance. Not as finicky as ABS. Not overly expensive but more than the standard PLA/PETG/ABS. Totally worth it in my opinion. Thanks for sharing your setup and specs
Reasoning as to why the clear made it out better: It's pure PETG resin, no colorants added = no variables introduced. The black might also need drying because PETG is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture when sitting out, worsening print quality and layer adhesion. Also, the comment being read out loud in the video will probably only be viable now, when you don't get thousands of them per video xD
I think you’re correct about the clear. Some other people have mentioned that may be the case anyway so I’m guessing so. As for the black that we used, it was a fresh spool but that clear did need some drying. Check out our video from two weeks ago where we first cover PETG. That clear stuff was water-logged! For now, if I can keep up with the comments, I’m going to read them all! We will see what it’s like as time goes on but you are correct. It’s much more manageable at this level
Yes! My buddy Caleb Castenada makes some good tunes. Check his stuff out, he is often releasing a song or two at a time. open.spotify.com/artist/1ohbsKk4eapYFCdHS23taF youtube.com/@calebcastaneda1196?si=hxdFiuI9qMG73D7O
I subscribed to your channel today, I liked your content. I print mostly 3DO ASA, Extrudr ASA, 3DJakes own one,printed some Polymaker, temprange depends mostly on speed and layerbonding, I print slower and pretty hot since I make a lot of printerparts, 250-270celcius, mostly either on my Bambulab X1C or my Trodoon 2.0 , speed varies so much depending on parts but rarely print under 100 and rarely over 300 I use mainly these filament brands cause I get good repeatable results all the time
Print some different PETG filaments on glass without a separator (gluestick) and let's see whether you then still like glass beds ... (Hint: it will stick very good to the bed ... actually becoming part of the bed, chemically fusing with the glass)
You clearly haven’t seen our video where exactly that happens lol Trying To Print With PETG Was A Huge Mistake | Rookie Oversight th-cam.com/video/xqmZQgt0T4g/w-d-xo.html
2:32 I just want to point out that with temperature you also need to consider the surrounding temperature and the color of the material. The surrounding air is the temperature of the heat sink so while a lot of people think hotter means it’s molten longer it actually isn’t quite true unless you’re printing ultra fast which you shouldn’t on an overhang anyway. As the difference in temperature between two objects increases then so does the rate of heat transfer. If the rate of heat transfer is greater when printed hotter then it may actually take about the same amount of time to cool to below the point at which it is no longer molten. It’s like putting hot water on a stove top so it boils faster. It just doesn’t happen because you slowed the rate of heat transfer through the pan into the water enough that it may actually take the same amount of time. The difference with printing hotter though is that the material is less viscous but more adhesive. This means you get a better and cleaner line that can bond with the minimal portion of the previous layer that it’s touching better than a lower temperature. Of course this is only true within a pretty slim range of temperatures before it degrades the quality and eventually just burns the filament. I typically print overhangs hotter and slower than the rest of my prints and they work out great for PETG. I even printed a desk broom that was literally just a handle with overhangs where I cut off the bottom attachment.
Interesting notes here. I had never considered the relation between temperature disparity and heat transfer like that. Totally makes sense though. Thanks for contributing!
There are different brands of PETG. Some of them prints easily at 220°C, some of them requires at least 250°C. About ABS and ASA*: Heated chamber is a must. I mean chamber and at least 50°C in it (the heat is provided by bed). Also even slightest draft of colder wind is absolute killer of successful print (that's why the chamber is a must). When you have it, the printing is not much harder than PLA. If not, it's real pita. Also the smell (VOC), that's why exists filtering solutions like Nevermore. *) The real ASA, not the ASA275. ASA275 is some sort of "better PLA".
You are correct on the chamber. I’ve done some small parts with minimal overhangs without a chamber but that’s about all you can reasonably get away with in terms of ABS/ASA. I’ll probably do some more messing around when it comes time to get that video together in another week or two
@@KeoPrints Oddly, I designed and built my own bed slinger a few years back with no enclosure and I live in the UK. It could print ABS but I could NEVER get it to print using PLA. That is so weird and it should be the other way around. I now own a Flashforge 5M and it is amazing at printing PLA. I haven't tried ABS or PETG yet but will at some point. New sub by the way. May I suggest you recommend some 3D print that you have created and where to get them. Thanks.
I have a clear PETG that behaves magically and can be run in a very wide range of temperatures. Most others are a lot fussier. Remember how originally you could get PETG only in clear and in very translucent colours? Maybe there's a reason. Perhaps opaque pigments do something to it. With exception of black perhaps. Black can be quite opaque with very little pigment, and it wouldn't contain any high-index minerals to try to increase opacity. But it can also contain a lot of pigment, so you'll never know until you try. My favourite styrene is HIPS. But i hear they differ a lot.
@@KeoPrints HIPS has matte surface, goes exactly where you put it, doesn't ooze, well behaved. Can be printed fast if you go hot. Good layer adhesion. Less shrinkage than ABS and ASA, less stink then ABS. Extremely cheap. Not one for extreme tensile strength outcomes, but it doesn't feel weak either. Normally used as soluble support material for ABS but it would be very shortsighted to limit it like that.
Ive run a TON of temp towers on 4 different brands of machines. And i used 4 different brands of black and 4 of white PETG. I rotated each roll onto each different printer....Heres my results: Black petg no matter the brand worked at 255/80 on Bambu P1P , 250/70 on Flashforge 5m, 250/75 on Anycubic Kobra 2 plus, 245/70 on Ender 3 v3 se. The white PETG worked at the EXACT same temps as the black.......The machine is the variable and not the filament
PLA dosnt even standt against a German Summer..... I use PETG only outside, its UV resitence and in white can easy take a summerday here. Parts of my PV Flatroof mount is printet in PETG.
I don't use PETG for structural stuff anymore. I use PLA+, i don't live in a desert, so the temp don't matter much and PLA is way less flexible, and that a good thing. I built a star tracker with PLA and it's doing great so far, even with the heat of the stepper.
What brand of PLA plus? I know some brands just use that as more of a marketing ploy and less of a material specificity. Super cool that it works that well for you; might have to check it out
@@KeoPrints I use Sunlu, it's not expensive and I find it easilly on Amazon France. Don't really know what additive they add, but I find it a little more robust and a smidge more heat resistant. It's not petg resistant but help.
Just another video to click to pass the time. Stayed for your journey of discovery in the world of PETG. PETG is a decent around material base. You'll love PCTG, and even better yet PET and PET-CF. Be careful with ABS/ASA same goes with PC they can be rather pungent in odour and induce headaches, like printer configurations. Everyone experiences things differently.
Happy to have you around. Thanks for the input on the other filaments. We do have a PCTG spool that we are going to look into. The PET-CF has my interest as well but I haven’t gotten ahold of any yet. Looking forward to covering a bunch of different things
What's the story for the printer being named Kory? ...though until recently, I mostly printed PETG in my Ender 3. I do want to get back into successfully printing Nylon but haven't been able to replicate my early success.
Ahh I'm glad you asked. Kory is usually in these videos with me but we weren't able to film this video together since I decided to write it last minute in response to comments. So he was there in spirit. As for the nylon, I am planning to check into PA-6 and PA-12 a little bit to see what they're all about as we have never messed with them. Really looking forward to that! What nylon are you using? What printer?
@@KeoPrints I'm trying Gismodorks in both natural and black nylon though my most successful run was Tripple Fish 200 pound fishing line. All of this is on an Ender 3. As far as PETG, I'll use anything and everything from Amazon Basics to Overture, usually anywhere between 220c to 250c on 60-85C bed at 75mm/s or so on both glass and PEI. Sometimes getting PETG off glass requires explosives, though, so be careful. Also, I don't hear many people talking about travel speed and retraction speed, which does make a difference. That might be something worth covering.
Good notes. The fishing line is interesting to me. I’ve heard of people using weed whacker line as well so pretty cool options. As for the PETG, I certainly know what it’s like to ruin a glass bed. I’ll keep the retraction setting portion in my notes for future coverage
Dude this is all really well made. It’s a war crime that you don’t have more subs. I’m on board tho haha. I’m looking into using PETG soon on my A1 mini.
I appreciate it my friend and am glad you’re here with us! New video dropping here shortly as well so stay tuned. Let me know how the PETG goes for you and what brand you’re using. I tried some green Overture in this upcoming video and it didn’t print super well on standard settings on my A1M
@@KeoPrints I will! My first printer was an anycubic kobra 2 neo. Only got it on Father’s Day this year. I like printing so much I just pulled the trigger on the mini already 😅 I’ve learned so much and I kinda know what I’m doing already haha. I want to start making functional stuff like carrying cases for warhammer and shelves
Polyethylene and polypropylene both feel 'softer' once colour pellets (1 - 2%) are added. It looks as if PETG has a similar characteristic(?) with the natural vs. black overhangs.
Could be. The clear and black feel the same off of the spool but they are generally noticeably more flexible than PLA for instance. Certainly not TPU status but still.
@@nomojo1110 Transparent materials have higher thermal conductivity than opaque materials, due to radiant heat transfer phenomena. Black filament cools down a bit slower than clear.
@@AwestrikeFearofGods Apologies for not replying sooner. I appreciate your explanation as I was 20 at the time of those observations and soon after that job I began a wood machinist apprenticeship which finished nearly 30 years ago. Cheers! Some memories we retain are quite odd 🤔
@@KeoPrintsFor ASA 265 - 275 nozzle and 100-105 bed brand depending. For petg I mostly use SUNLU It's affordable with good enough consistency and material quality @235-240 nozzle and 70 bed. I've bought some PURSAMENT petg spools recently but didn't try it yet. Currently I use Ender 3 V3 KE with some mods into a DIY IKEA lack enclosure. I use pla only for kids toys because I consider it more safe as a material.
I print mostly ASA. Here's my ASA info. Polymaker and Flashforge have been the best. Elegoo is ok (especially for the price), but has more odor and bed adhesion/warping is worse. I print at 270 with bed at 90 and chamber at 55. The Elegoo I have bed at 100 so it sticks better and warps less. Speed is governed by flow rate at 15mm3/s. You should also reduce fan settings to no more than 25% except overhangs no more than 50%. Printer is Qidi Q1 Pro running Orca slicer. For PETG I print at 245 and bed at 80. The faster printers do need higher temps. I also print higher temps for better layer adhesion.
nice work of PETG.. I am always on PLA and TPU, if it working on higher temperture I would pull out with the PETG not my favourite but it is useful. Thank, I have learn something from you.
Funny thing is, my Ender 7 with glass bed prints PETG like there is no tomorrow, just finished a 30 hours print. What i have problems with is PLA :P it does not stick good enough, and if i use glue stick. i get "your" problem and i need to use a drill hammer to get it off :P PETG is easy i use 97% iso, cant do that with PLA... b.t.w. i payed 14$ for a spool of PETG :P Getting a pei bed is kinda hard, its 280x280 and like ALL Creality's my alu headed bed looks like it has been in a car accident in the ocean, so sticking a magnet plate on it is a no go (yet) Did see an Qdi 3 pro plus (something) uses a PEI bed and i think thats 280x280. Maybe i try one of them Amazon "china" plates for 25$ just for giggles. And yes i use 240c and i use speeds up to 250ms average around 150ms Btw i have this printer for about 3 weeks, and yeah it runs klipper now BTT Manta E3EZ with CM4 and 5160 RGB drivers, BTT Pad 7 and LDO steppers :P The upgrade was more then the 250$ i payed on amazon for the printer, but hey i can move that stuff to my Voron :P (yeah i think i got that 3d printer virus...)
Speed and temp both correlate with flow. Hotter temp, less viscosity and a higher flow. Higher flow means higher speed BUT you have to be able to cool down if your going too hot. It is mostly dependant on your printers capabilities, most printers limits are the ability to cool. Others are limited by hotend flow.
Pretty new to 3D printing, and I have been liking the Overture PETG. Just picked up some Atomic Filaments PETG so excited to give that a try. I've been finding some similar stuff with print temps, definitely having to up the print temps quite a lot. Also, Overture's rock white seems to have a lot of problems with overhangs. Having lots of issues with little globs of plastic along while lines, or gaps in the print. I'm guessing I may just need to dry the filament, but who knows!
@@KeoPrints Bambu was out of black so I ended up picking ups some Siraya Tech from Amazon. It prints extremely well using Orca Slicer's ABS default profile. One note, both of my printers are enclosed (X1C and K1 Max). I think you'll some trouble with warping using ASA and ABSs unless you have an enclosure.
Similar to AZ guy, I live in a hot place and to be honest once I was dialed in for PETG I never went back to PLA. I find it a good middle ground for functional parts and detail/ease of printing.
We have a few videos on TPU. Check them out TPU is Actually STRONG!? | Unexpectedly Durable Blender Experiment th-cam.com/video/aV913Zs8JZ0/w-d-xo.html
@@KeoPrints I'm using the stock textured pei plate, the only warping issues I have are when I print a large part out near the edge. Even then, it hasn't been enough to kill any of the prints. I allow it to cool on its own below 50c before I think about pulling it out, just so cooling is fairly controlled. I use the generic ABS settings for the most part, I am pretty sure the stock setting on temperature is 260, I went 270 as stated above, and I don't know the fan stock settings but I turned maximum at 20 percent as stated above.
@@KeoPrints i also use a maximum hold hair spray on the plate, but I'm not positive it's needed, I just know it doesn't hurt and I got the habit from my Ender 3 glass plate days.
My fellow former Ender brother. Those were certainly different times. Thanks for the info my friend. I will keep it all in mind as we prepare for that video
Shit u can print petg at 200 lol, i learned that the hard way, for some reason my AD5M was printing the first layer at 200 and the bed at 60 N I don't know why I actually think it still does it lol...... And no it's not sliced for PLA because after the first layer it goes to the temperature I set it's weird I also have the klipper mod installed on it
@@KeoPrints PETG does not bond properly at 200. If it's printing and shiny at 200, then it is not true PETG. Some companies market other materials as PETG when it isn't true PETG.
So the short answer is yes but if the PETG that you are using requires anything hotter than 245-250, it will likely start to melt your bowden tube. That tube extends into the hot part of the hotend and is subject to all 250 degrees. As I understand it, PTFE, that tube, begins to melt around that temp. Also I think it's toxic once it does melt. Worth looking into to be sure but if you are printing colder, shouldn't be an issue. I printed a bit of PETG on my ender3 v2's with no issues. Here is a video where Kory and I upgraded the hotend on his Ender to better cope with higher temps. th-cam.com/video/mQZlnxxWEGc/w-d-xo.html
@@KeoPrints It doesn't exactly melt, but it is even worse. It starts releasing volatile poison, starts going brown and starts becoming permanently sticky. PTFE cannot actually be molten down, they apparently mould it under low temperatures with an extreme amount of pressure instead, by sintering from flake or granules.
@@KeoPrints PTFE doesn't in fact melt because its breakdown temperature is well below its melting point, although it's nominally a thermoplastic because it's linear and not crosslinked. What happens at breakdown is that it releases very poisonous gas and permanently turns brown and sticky. The way they manufacture anything from PTFE is by cold sintering powder under extreme pressure.
@@SianaGearz While it does not melt until 320 C or above, it is quite soft and susceptible to creep (i.e. gradual deformation) at 260 C. It also decomposes slowly at this temperature, producing gases which is especially toxic to pet birds.
I printed so many different filaments, including PC and Nylon. I went back to PETG because it does 95% of everything without all the crazy effort.
I do thermo forming with vacuum molds and PETG holds up very well to the high temperatures I subject them to. the plastic I use is heated to 190 degrees C and then vacuum formed. brand is sunlu
That’s crazy that simple PETG can handle that kind of work as well
I am gonna try PETG now... Your videos are good stuff!
Heck yea dude. Let me know how it goes and don’t forget an interface layer especially on a glass bed. I didn’t have issues on a textured PEI plate but some people have issues with it sticking on there badly as well
I ❤ the little dog figure. 😊
I have an Ender 3, and printed only PLA and PETG so far, but multiple brands.
- I usually print PETG at 210 - 235 depending on the model, and brand of material. If it requires high detail, eg. piece of art, lower nozzle temperature is better, although you can't go very low, it's better to print a test piece. If it needs to be strongly bonded and dimensionally accurate eg. a part for a mechanical device, high nozzle temp is better, but overhang gets difficult.
- I usually use 0.8mm nozzle with 0.2mm - 0.65mm layer height, depending on the vertical detail I want, (smaller nozzle requires smaller temperature).
- Build surface is spring steel PEI
- Bed temperature 75-78°C (any higher and PETG may not come off without destroying the build surface.)
- I usually use 2-3mm brim for adhesion. (No glue, hair sprey or anything for adhesion... when it cools to 45-35°C it usually comes off of the bed unless it's something very thin.)
- Fan speed 20% max (0% at first layer, and 100% for bridging)
- I found that low speed works best, 20 - 35 mm/s (which is 1/2 - 1/3 of my usual PLA speed, and first layer at half speed. I also reduce print speed for smaller nozzle. The smallest I used is 0.2mm at half speed.)
That being said I started printing about 2 years ago, and I don't print every day, so take it with a grain of salt.
Good info, thanks for sharing. It’s cool to compare individual setups and results
I have used PETG more or less from the start of my 3D printing Journey. I use it for a lot of outdoor usage and had stuff outside for nearly 3 years now and still doing the job here in England. I print 225 nozzle and 70 Bed on a glass bed on an ender 3 v2
Good stuff. Do you use glue stick or anything on that glass bed for an interface layer?
@@KeoPrints I mainly use a cheap hairspray but always clean with Isopropyl before then spray on hairspray
Ahh gotcha. Gotta save those beds. I finally learned that
@@ChrisValin-w6o Funny enough I have just upped my temps to 238/75 and found it prints better but have no fan.
First time viewer. Subscribed!
Nice 'chill' presentation vibe. Love that you are pragmatic and happy to reevaluate what you try. Very interesting result differences with the clear & black!
Happy you stopped by! Looking forward to building a channel here with you.
I used to print almost exclusively PETG-CF. I leave the bed at 85c for the first layer, and drop to 80c after. My nozzle temps have been 270 for the first layer, and 265 for the rest. I almost never have the layer cooling fan on (but I am printing very large objects mostly) and I get some amazing layer adhesion. For overhangs, my fans will ramp up to 50-60% but only for a brief moment. I have switched to mostly printing ASA-CF and PA-CF for customer parts.
That’s good to know. We have some ASA-CF and Nylon coming up as well. What settings are you using for those?
@@KeoPrints ASA and asa-CF I print very hot. 110 on the bed, 270 nozzle. I also leave the bed on and slowly over an hour or so drop the bed temp. This mimics the chamber heaters of a stratasys and helps prevent warping. Works quite well.
A worst case scenario is black PLA, in a car with black interior and untinted windows. White or silver PLA would fare best in direct sunlight.
That's a fair point. I have had black PLA prints warp inside of hours on hot days before. I have even seen the lighter colors give up when subject to those conditions but of course, when I stage the experiment with this model, no change. Oh well. I may try again with other materials as we move forward with new filaments.
Should be noted that clear PETG is more than likely raw PETG. It probably doesn't have any additives, and color itself is an additive that affects the material properties. Makes sense to me that it would print differently.
I had a lot of problems with PETG when I was new to 3D printing and had an Ender 3. Don't know why. Now I have a Prusa Mk4, and I just use the defaults and it works great, which I expect because that's the material they use for their printed parts. The default temperature is 240 for first layer, 245 for other layers (250 if it's Prusament). Maybe it will bond better at even higher temps, but it's very printable at 245-250.
Thanks for sharing your temps on that machine. Its been interesting hearing from everyone as far as default printing temps for PETG on their machines!
I'm a total newb getting ready to take off the PLA training wheels and head into PETG and ABS. Thank you so much for this, appreciate you guys!
That’s awesome. You’re going to have no issues with the PETG. That ABS might trip you up but let me know how it goes
@@KeoPrints I cheated....I got a closed box with a heater (Q1 Pro) so maybe I won't get totally slaughtered. (Maybe....lol)
Don’t ever print PETG on a glass bed w/o a good interface layer. PETG bonds to glass and can’t be separated, which will gouge the glass. PETG sticks to itself extremely well, while PLA does not bond quite as well. With a fast printer, you can print PLA as high as 225-230, which does increase the adhesion. Silks though, nothing can really help them, as the chemical properties significantly reduce the layer adhesion.
EDIT: There is no real reason to print PLA or PETG below 300mm/s on your printer. You may need to tune the settings, but on your printer, 300mm/s should be the norm. TPU will need to print slower, and some Nylons may need to as well. ABS & ASA are designed for speed and high temps.
Elegoo ASA - .6 Noz = 270 layer 1, 265 rest. Bed 95. Chamber 55. Layer height is .3. Let print fully cool before removing. I find some subtle warping if removed too quickly. I used to print in PETG, but I have switched to ASA. Almost everything I print is functional and in my yard (Texas heat is brutal even on PETG).
Good to note about PETG and the Texas heat! I do like ASA as an option for general functional parts. Good heat/chemical resistance. Not as finicky as ABS. Not overly expensive but more than the standard PLA/PETG/ABS. Totally worth it in my opinion.
Thanks for sharing your setup and specs
Reasoning as to why the clear made it out better:
It's pure PETG resin, no colorants added = no variables introduced.
The black might also need drying because PETG is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture when sitting out, worsening print quality and layer adhesion.
Also, the comment being read out loud in the video will probably only be viable now, when you don't get thousands of them per video xD
I think you’re correct about the clear. Some other people have mentioned that may be the case anyway so I’m guessing so. As for the black that we used, it was a fresh spool but that clear did need some drying. Check out our video from two weeks ago where we first cover PETG. That clear stuff was water-logged!
For now, if I can keep up with the comments, I’m going to read them all! We will see what it’s like as time goes on but you are correct. It’s much more manageable at this level
Great, engaging content! Can you tell me more about your background music. I like it.
Yes! My buddy Caleb Castenada makes some good tunes. Check his stuff out, he is often releasing a song or two at a time.
open.spotify.com/artist/1ohbsKk4eapYFCdHS23taF
youtube.com/@calebcastaneda1196?si=hxdFiuI9qMG73D7O
x- )
Thanks for reading my comment
only printed PLA so I have no experience to share
my next venture us TPU on the drive drive ender 3 I modded
Give that PETG a shot! It’s good stuff and prints pretty easy
Suggestion: Is it worth doing the temp tower & overhang model prints for new filament types?
Will hopefully identify an specific issues quickly.
I may add this to the lineup with every material now that you mention it. It certainly does provide a lot of good information quickly. Good note!
I subscribed to your channel today, I liked your content. I print mostly 3DO ASA, Extrudr ASA, 3DJakes own one,printed some Polymaker, temprange depends mostly on speed and layerbonding, I print slower and pretty hot since I make a lot of printerparts, 250-270celcius, mostly either on my Bambulab X1C or my Trodoon 2.0 , speed varies so much depending on parts but rarely print under 100 and rarely over 300
I use mainly these filament brands cause I get good repeatable results all the time
Thanks for hanging out, glad you’re liking it! I appreciate the input on the ASA. It’s good to have more experienced users input before we dive in!
Print some different PETG filaments on glass without a separator (gluestick) and let's see whether you then still like glass beds ... (Hint: it will stick very good to the bed ... actually becoming part of the bed, chemically fusing with the glass)
You clearly haven’t seen our video where exactly that happens lol
Trying To Print With PETG Was A Huge Mistake | Rookie Oversight
th-cam.com/video/xqmZQgt0T4g/w-d-xo.html
Is you are doing ASA and ABS, I’d like to see a bit about bed adhesion and vapor smoothing.
Good call. We will see what happens when we break that stuff out. I’m sure the bed adhesion will be a thing since that’s a point of difficulty usually
2:32 I just want to point out that with temperature you also need to consider the surrounding temperature and the color of the material. The surrounding air is the temperature of the heat sink so while a lot of people think hotter means it’s molten longer it actually isn’t quite true unless you’re printing ultra fast which you shouldn’t on an overhang anyway. As the difference in temperature between two objects increases then so does the rate of heat transfer. If the rate of heat transfer is greater when printed hotter then it may actually take about the same amount of time to cool to below the point at which it is no longer molten. It’s like putting hot water on a stove top so it boils faster. It just doesn’t happen because you slowed the rate of heat transfer through the pan into the water enough that it may actually take the same amount of time. The difference with printing hotter though is that the material is less viscous but more adhesive. This means you get a better and cleaner line that can bond with the minimal portion of the previous layer that it’s touching better than a lower temperature. Of course this is only true within a pretty slim range of temperatures before it degrades the quality and eventually just burns the filament. I typically print overhangs hotter and slower than the rest of my prints and they work out great for PETG. I even printed a desk broom that was literally just a handle with overhangs where I cut off the bottom attachment.
Interesting notes here. I had never considered the relation between temperature disparity and heat transfer like that. Totally makes sense though. Thanks for contributing!
There are different brands of PETG. Some of them prints easily at 220°C, some of them requires at least 250°C.
About ABS and ASA*: Heated chamber is a must. I mean chamber and at least 50°C in it (the heat is provided by bed). Also even slightest draft of colder wind is absolute killer of successful print (that's why the chamber is a must). When you have it, the printing is not much harder than PLA. If not, it's real pita. Also the smell (VOC), that's why exists filtering solutions like Nevermore.
*) The real ASA, not the ASA275. ASA275 is some sort of "better PLA".
You are correct on the chamber. I’ve done some small parts with minimal overhangs without a chamber but that’s about all you can reasonably get away with in terms of ABS/ASA. I’ll probably do some more messing around when it comes time to get that video together in another week or two
@@KeoPrints Oddly, I designed and built my own bed slinger a few years back with no enclosure and I live in the UK. It could print ABS but I could NEVER get it to print using PLA. That is so weird and it should be the other way around. I now own a Flashforge 5M and it is amazing at printing PLA. I haven't tried ABS or PETG yet but will at some point. New sub by the way. May I suggest you recommend some 3D print that you have created and where to get them. Thanks.
I have a clear PETG that behaves magically and can be run in a very wide range of temperatures. Most others are a lot fussier.
Remember how originally you could get PETG only in clear and in very translucent colours? Maybe there's a reason. Perhaps opaque pigments do something to it.
With exception of black perhaps. Black can be quite opaque with very little pigment, and it wouldn't contain any high-index minerals to try to increase opacity. But it can also contain a lot of pigment, so you'll never know until you try.
My favourite styrene is HIPS. But i hear they differ a lot.
Good notes here. I am not terribly familiar with HIPS so ill have to put that on the list to explore!
@@KeoPrints HIPS has matte surface, goes exactly where you put it, doesn't ooze, well behaved. Can be printed fast if you go hot. Good layer adhesion. Less shrinkage than ABS and ASA, less stink then ABS. Extremely cheap. Not one for extreme tensile strength outcomes, but it doesn't feel weak either.
Normally used as soluble support material for ABS but it would be very shortsighted to limit it like that.
Ive run a TON of temp towers on 4 different brands of machines. And i used 4 different brands of black and 4 of white PETG. I rotated each roll onto each different printer....Heres my results: Black petg no matter the brand worked at 255/80 on Bambu P1P , 250/70 on Flashforge 5m, 250/75 on Anycubic Kobra 2 plus, 245/70 on Ender 3 v3 se. The white PETG worked at the EXACT same temps as the black.......The machine is the variable and not the filament
Yup. It’s crazy how much can change just from machine to machine like that
PLA dosnt even standt against a German Summer.....
I use PETG only outside, its UV resitence and in white can easy take a summerday here. Parts of my PV Flatroof mount is printet in PETG.
Old PLA just can’t keep it together in that heat
I don't use PETG for structural stuff anymore.
I use PLA+, i don't live in a desert, so the temp don't matter much and PLA is way less flexible, and that a good thing.
I built a star tracker with PLA and it's doing great so far, even with the heat of the stepper.
What brand of PLA plus? I know some brands just use that as more of a marketing ploy and less of a material specificity. Super cool that it works that well for you; might have to check it out
@@KeoPrints I use Sunlu, it's not expensive and I find it easilly on Amazon France.
Don't really know what additive they add, but I find it a little more robust and a smidge more heat resistant.
It's not petg resistant but help.
Good to know. There are so many PLA+ options but they all vary so much in their actual offerings
Just another video to click to pass the time. Stayed for your journey of discovery in the world of PETG. PETG is a decent around material base. You'll love PCTG, and even better yet PET and PET-CF. Be careful with ABS/ASA same goes with PC they can be rather pungent in odour and induce headaches, like printer configurations. Everyone experiences things differently.
Happy to have you around. Thanks for the input on the other filaments. We do have a PCTG spool that we are going to look into. The PET-CF has my interest as well but I haven’t gotten ahold of any yet. Looking forward to covering a bunch of different things
best place for 3d printing vids
It's 2024. For the love of common sence, convert your printer to direct drive! %)))
What's the story for the printer being named Kory? ...though until recently, I mostly printed PETG in my Ender 3. I do want to get back into successfully printing Nylon but haven't been able to replicate my early success.
Ahh I'm glad you asked. Kory is usually in these videos with me but we weren't able to film this video together since I decided to write it last minute in response to comments. So he was there in spirit.
As for the nylon, I am planning to check into PA-6 and PA-12 a little bit to see what they're all about as we have never messed with them. Really looking forward to that!
What nylon are you using? What printer?
@@KeoPrints I'm trying Gismodorks in both natural and black nylon though my most successful run was Tripple Fish 200 pound fishing line. All of this is on an Ender 3. As far as PETG, I'll use anything and everything from Amazon Basics to Overture, usually anywhere between 220c to 250c on 60-85C bed at 75mm/s or so on both glass and PEI. Sometimes getting PETG off glass requires explosives, though, so be careful.
Also, I don't hear many people talking about travel speed and retraction speed, which does make a difference. That might be something worth covering.
Good notes. The fishing line is interesting to me. I’ve heard of people using weed whacker line as well so pretty cool options.
As for the PETG, I certainly know what it’s like to ruin a glass bed. I’ll keep the retraction setting portion in my notes for future coverage
Dude this is all really well made. It’s a war crime that you don’t have more subs. I’m on board tho haha.
I’m looking into using PETG soon on my A1 mini.
I appreciate it my friend and am glad you’re here with us! New video dropping here shortly as well so stay tuned.
Let me know how the PETG goes for you and what brand you’re using. I tried some green Overture in this upcoming video and it didn’t print super well on standard settings on my A1M
@@KeoPrints I will! My first printer was an anycubic kobra 2 neo. Only got it on Father’s Day this year. I like printing so much I just pulled the trigger on the mini already 😅
I’ve learned so much and I kinda know what I’m doing already haha. I want to start making functional stuff like carrying cases for warhammer and shelves
Polyethylene and polypropylene both feel 'softer' once colour pellets (1 - 2%) are added. It looks as if PETG has a similar characteristic(?) with the natural vs. black overhangs.
Could be. The clear and black feel the same off of the spool but they are generally noticeably more flexible than PLA for instance. Certainly not TPU status but still.
@@nomojo1110 Transparent materials have higher thermal conductivity than opaque materials, due to radiant heat transfer phenomena. Black filament cools down a bit slower than clear.
That would make sense then when looking at the overhangs
@@AwestrikeFearofGods Apologies for not replying sooner. I appreciate your explanation as I was 20 at the time of those observations and soon after that job I began a wood machinist apprenticeship which finished nearly 30 years ago. Cheers!
Some memories we retain are quite odd 🤔
I mostly print petg and ASA never had any serious issues so far
What kind of temps are you running for those? What machines as well? It’s been super interesting hearing from everyone
@@KeoPrintsFor ASA 265 - 275 nozzle and 100-105 bed brand depending.
For petg I mostly use SUNLU It's affordable with good enough consistency and material quality @235-240 nozzle and 70 bed.
I've bought some PURSAMENT petg spools recently but didn't try it yet.
Currently I use Ender 3 V3 KE with some mods into a DIY IKEA lack enclosure.
I use pla only for kids toys because I consider it more safe as a material.
I print mostly ASA. Here's my ASA info. Polymaker and Flashforge have been the best. Elegoo is ok (especially for the price), but has more odor and bed adhesion/warping is worse. I print at 270 with bed at 90 and chamber at 55. The Elegoo I have bed at 100 so it sticks better and warps less. Speed is governed by flow rate at 15mm3/s. You should also reduce fan settings to no more than 25% except overhangs no more than 50%. Printer is Qidi Q1 Pro running Orca slicer.
For PETG I print at 245 and bed at 80. The faster printers do need higher temps. I also print higher temps for better layer adhesion.
You absolute legend! I asked and you answered. Thanks for the input; we are looking forward to playing around with the ASA/ABS family soon
nice work of PETG.. I am always on PLA and TPU, if it working on higher temperture I would pull out with the PETG not my favourite but it is useful. Thank, I have learn something from you.
Happy to hear it!
Funny thing is, my Ender 7 with glass bed prints PETG like there is no tomorrow, just finished a 30 hours print.
What i have problems with is PLA :P it does not stick good enough, and if i use glue stick. i get "your" problem and i need to use a drill hammer to get it off :P
PETG is easy i use 97% iso, cant do that with PLA... b.t.w. i payed 14$ for a spool of PETG :P
Getting a pei bed is kinda hard, its 280x280 and like ALL Creality's my alu headed bed looks like it has been in a car accident in the ocean, so sticking a magnet plate on it is a no go (yet)
Did see an Qdi 3 pro plus (something) uses a PEI bed and i think thats 280x280.
Maybe i try one of them Amazon "china" plates for 25$ just for giggles.
And yes i use 240c and i use speeds up to 250ms average around 150ms
Btw i have this printer for about 3 weeks, and yeah it runs klipper now BTT Manta E3EZ with CM4 and 5160 RGB drivers, BTT Pad 7 and LDO steppers :P
The upgrade was more then the 250$ i payed on amazon for the printer, but hey i can move that stuff to my Voron :P (yeah i think i got that 3d printer virus...)
Yes the printer addiction is absolutely a thing isn't it?
Speed and temp both correlate with flow. Hotter temp, less viscosity and a higher flow. Higher flow means higher speed BUT you have to be able to cool down if your going too hot. It is mostly dependant on your printers capabilities, most printers limits are the ability to cool. Others are limited by hotend flow.
You’ve got that right. As evident by the stock cooling fans on the Bambu tool heads versus stock cooling on ender tool heads from a few years ago!
Pretty new to 3D printing, and I have been liking the Overture PETG. Just picked up some Atomic Filaments PETG so excited to give that a try.
I've been finding some similar stuff with print temps, definitely having to up the print temps quite a lot.
Also, Overture's rock white seems to have a lot of problems with overhangs. Having lots of issues with little globs of plastic along while lines, or gaps in the print. I'm guessing I may just need to dry the filament, but who knows!
Well welcome to the hobby. There’s always something to tinker with and improve isn’t there?
@@KeoPrints Absolutely!
My new favorite filament is glass filled ABS.
What brand are you using? I saw Bambu pushing that and am very tempted to grab some
@@KeoPrints Bambu was out of black so I ended up picking ups some Siraya Tech from Amazon. It prints extremely well using Orca Slicer's ABS default profile.
One note, both of my printers are enclosed (X1C and K1 Max). I think you'll some trouble with warping using ASA and ABSs unless you have an enclosure.
Similar to AZ guy, I live in a hot place and to be honest once I was dialed in for PETG I never went back to PLA. I find it a good middle ground for functional parts and detail/ease of printing.
Fair point. There really isn’t a reason not to be using it now. Good stuff
TPU AND TPE PLZ
We have a few videos on TPU. Check them out
TPU is Actually STRONG!? | Unexpectedly Durable Blender Experiment
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I print black Zyltech ABS at 270/100, mostly on a Bambu P1P in a cardboard enclosure, with a max fan speed of 20 percent. Layer adhesion is great.
Good to know. I’ll be using my P1S for the ABS stuff. What build plate are you running? Any warping issues?
@@KeoPrints I'm using the stock textured pei plate, the only warping issues I have are when I print a large part out near the edge. Even then, it hasn't been enough to kill any of the prints. I allow it to cool on its own below 50c before I think about pulling it out, just so cooling is fairly controlled. I use the generic ABS settings for the most part, I am pretty sure the stock setting on temperature is 260, I went 270 as stated above, and I don't know the fan stock settings but I turned maximum at 20 percent as stated above.
@@KeoPrints i also use a maximum hold hair spray on the plate, but I'm not positive it's needed, I just know it doesn't hurt and I got the habit from my Ender 3 glass plate days.
My fellow former Ender brother. Those were certainly different times. Thanks for the info my friend. I will keep it all in mind as we prepare for that video
Shit u can print petg at 200 lol, i learned that the hard way, for some reason my AD5M was printing the first layer at 200 and the bed at 60 N I don't know why I actually think it still does it lol...... And no it's not sliced for PLA because after the first layer it goes to the temperature I set it's weird I also have the klipper mod installed on it
Dang 200 is crazy low for a first layer. No bed adhesion issues either?
@@KeoPrints PETG does not bond properly at 200. If it's printing and shiny at 200, then it is not true PETG. Some companies market other materials as PETG when it isn't true PETG.
@@KeoPrints no it's stuck to the bed but I never let the first layer complete I always noticed it and changed it before it started the second layer
can i print PETG on a base ender 3?
So the short answer is yes but if the PETG that you are using requires anything hotter than 245-250, it will likely start to melt your bowden tube. That tube extends into the hot part of the hotend and is subject to all 250 degrees. As I understand it, PTFE, that tube, begins to melt around that temp. Also I think it's toxic once it does melt. Worth looking into to be sure but if you are printing colder, shouldn't be an issue. I printed a bit of PETG on my ender3 v2's with no issues.
Here is a video where Kory and I upgraded the hotend on his Ender to better cope with higher temps.
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@@KeoPrints It doesn't exactly melt, but it is even worse. It starts releasing volatile poison, starts going brown and starts becoming permanently sticky. PTFE cannot actually be molten down, they apparently mould it under low temperatures with an extreme amount of pressure instead, by sintering from flake or granules.
@@KeoPrints PTFE doesn't in fact melt because its breakdown temperature is well below its melting point, although it's nominally a thermoplastic because it's linear and not crosslinked.
What happens at breakdown is that it releases very poisonous gas and permanently turns brown and sticky.
The way they manufacture anything from PTFE is by cold sintering powder under extreme pressure.
That's pretty wild that it's so widely used in applications where it can be subject to that kind of heat. Good info!
@@SianaGearz While it does not melt until 320 C or above, it is quite soft and susceptible to creep (i.e. gradual deformation) at 260 C. It also decomposes slowly at this temperature, producing gases which is especially toxic to pet birds.
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