I'm surprised I got recommended this so early! The tip about not optimizing small models is good. It's just not worth it to work for minutes in the slicer to shave off minutes of automatic print time.
If you only plan to print it once. If you are going to maybe have to print it again… as people say “do it right the first time and save yourself in the long run.”
Great methods to speed models along. I have been using three of these, glad I watched your video. I will go back and run new bins using all suggestions you mention. I have about 600 bins to print and at least 40 more grids to get done. I do use a 6 nozzle may try out the 8mm. The lighting infill should be good on gridfinity, not sure on higher quality models if I am big fan for its use. I did not jump on the gridfinity fan wagon until about ten weeks ago, now that I have used it in shop finding it is the best organizing system available for mutiple uses.
Thx. I learned a tip or 2 I didn't know. I'd like to pass one on that I have seen elsewhere...darker filament makes it easier to see details in videos.
hmmmm thanks for the tip! haha yeah it's difficult. I think with black filament you see no shadows so it eats a lot of detail. But yeah the while definitely gets washed out pretty easily... maybe I'll just go for a color in the future 😊 !
Another Priceless video. Less time, less filament.. Ha..Ha.. I figure I am going to be printing a couple hundred hours worth of boxes for organizing.. So, quality first to see what the printer setup can do, and migrating each set of prints with additional settings to see how fast I want to print for the quality of print I need/want to get the job done.. I like it.. Taking notes and documenting what works as you go.. Great Starter material... BTW.. A tip on another video.. Combining STL files to setup batch print jobs.. I think I am going to want to import several boxes into a single print and let it go vs single prints.. I have seen a video or two on stacking gridfinity bases to print a bunch of them at one time.. Have you tried or perfected that? A newbie video would be cool on that, since I think a lot of people start there.. Thanks again on another awesome video.. I can see me with 4 to 6 printers before this is over, sitting on top, or, dehumidifier boxes sitting over the printers and feeding the filament to the printers out of the dehumidifier boxes.. Figure I will have the cabinet base big enough to house whatever extra filament I buy for the printer startup. PLA, PETG, TPU for some Flex parts, not sure what else. Going to get some matching colors like black/white black/gray, white/gray, Black/Red, Blue/Red, etc, so, don't need a lot of colors to start. Going to buy Bambu filament with the printer and some of the cheapest I can find on Amazon of the same color and do some test prints and see how cheaper filament works compared to the Company filaments.. Any advice on Startup's is always welcome..
Sometime modifying the model can really help. For example at the bottom I just remove thickness until there is only a solid panel and no infill at the base ex 3 bottom layer + 3 top layer of 0.2mm then I would set the bottom thickness to 1.2mm. I can easily do this after in the slicer by moving down the model until I don't see any infill. If somebody would still prefer infill for increased stifness then this is not to do because a small panel with the same mass of a bigger panel with a low infill is often more flexible but not weaker tough, in fact it often is better at resisting impact due to the flexibility
The tips shown here were good, the beginning of the video was a little too long, it looks more like a commercial at the very beginning. Keep doing vids like these, if you can add expert tips in the future that would be great too!
@@Arne.BornheimI'm very much in favor of keeping intros as short as possible. Generally speaking on TH-cam, it's wild how many channels give an intro and proceed to repeat the exact things they just said before getting to the actual information. I've been skipping straight to minute 1:00 or 2:00 on a lot of videos.
The title says it already. Too much of "trying to sell the video" at the start. Would much have preferred you just getting to the point. If you need to get over 10min then I'd recommend just researching and adding another "how to" point, which actually adds value. 3:41 Use the right click option "height range modifier" instead (for this specific use case). Now you won't need to fiddle around with sizing and positioning a body. 4:13 Good point making people aware of! Almost nobody talks about that in their "How to faster prints" videos. Overall nice video for beginners 👍
Thanks for your detailed feedback! Will definitely keep the intro shorter in the future :) thanks about mentioning height modifiers! Definitely also a great tool.
My Ender 3 V2 Mod prints at 650mm/s. 😅 There is no more room for more, as it is really just a couple figures lower than grinding, overheating steppers and frame stability issues 😂. So here is my advise: IF you want the maximum- Test your hardware first with some codes and macros, before changing amything in the printer config data. THEN tune it up in the slicer. Otherwise it will always cap the maximum. Cheers
Not good. In general you wanna stay above 60% the nozzle diameter for layer height. It’ll work if you go super slow at .2 …. In Pla. But if you do any other material … it’s gonna be a mess. You should really stay about .38
Well I think different settings are right for every print! There's no one way to do it that works all the time. It's more about having a toolkit you can use 😊
@@Arne.BornheimHow about if you want to make quality content that makes you money, YOU figure out new tips that would actually be helpful. There’s nothing in this video that hasn’t been said in 100 videos over the last 5 years.
0:10 Don’t bother watching if you have been printing longer than 2 months. There’s nothing new in this video that hasn’t been said by every other TH-camr for the last 5 years.
Hi! Ich hatte schon mal ein paar Videos von dir gesehen aber meistens nur die ersten 5 max 10 minuten. Das meiste Content war nix neues für mich (ich verfolge vieles auf Englisch), dein "click bait" video hat mir gezeigt dass du andere Sachen machen kannst als nur Reviews, was ich gar nicht gedacht hätte, z.b. Sachen mit sensors und actuators, was mich sehr interessiert. I will keep an eye on your Channel. Viel Erfolg aber auch viel Spaß ;)
I find you video style a bit to dramatic, i think cutting a third as much to slightly less extreme angels, would convey the professional tone better. The quick cuts distract from the video
I like the quick cuts and different angles. I’m a professional cameraman and Steadicam Operator and I think that this use of various angles in your video was creative
Why do I keep thinking there will be a "magic hidden bullet" on these videos then absolutely nothing new is said and it's just buttons. I'm in search for 3d slicing algorithms, not buttons that everyone sees.
I think it's about building the right toolkit that you can use depending on the situation. What do you mean by algorithms? Something that does all the work for you or the right set of things to do to get it right all the time ?
@@Arne.Bornheim More technical stuff like speed optimized toolpaths, better bridging algortims, XYZ printing (not only XY printing), water tight walls, new developments on adaptive infills, organic supports that release more easily from the part without then need for multimaterial, etc.
I'm surprised I got recommended this so early! The tip about not optimizing small models is good. It's just not worth it to work for minutes in the slicer to shave off minutes of automatic print time.
Yeah I think it's all a balancing act where it makes sense and where it doesn't 😊
If you only plan to print it once.
If you are going to maybe have to print it again… as people say “do it right the first time and save yourself in the long run.”
Great methods to speed models along. I have been using three of these, glad I watched your video. I will go back and run new bins using all suggestions you mention. I have about 600 bins to print and at least 40 more grids to get done. I do use a 6 nozzle may try out the 8mm. The lighting infill should be good on gridfinity, not sure on higher quality models if I am big fan for its use.
I did not jump on the gridfinity fan wagon until about ten weeks ago, now that I have used it in shop finding it is the best organizing system available for mutiple uses.
Thx. I learned a tip or 2 I didn't know. I'd like to pass one on that I have seen elsewhere...darker filament makes it easier to see details in videos.
hmmmm thanks for the tip! haha yeah it's difficult. I think with black filament you see no shadows so it eats a lot of detail. But yeah the while definitely gets washed out pretty easily... maybe I'll just go for a color in the future 😊 !
Another Priceless video. Less time, less filament.. Ha..Ha.. I figure I am going to be printing a couple hundred hours worth of boxes for organizing.. So, quality first to see what the printer setup can do, and migrating each set of prints with additional settings to see how fast I want to print for the quality of print I need/want to get the job done.. I like it.. Taking notes and documenting what works as you go.. Great Starter material...
BTW.. A tip on another video.. Combining STL files to setup batch print jobs.. I think I am going to want to import several boxes into a single print and let it go vs single prints.. I have seen a video or two on stacking gridfinity bases to print a bunch of them at one time.. Have you tried or perfected that? A newbie video would be cool on that, since I think a lot of people start there.. Thanks again on another awesome video.. I can see me with 4 to 6 printers before this is over, sitting on top, or, dehumidifier boxes sitting over the printers and feeding the filament to the printers out of the dehumidifier boxes.. Figure I will have the cabinet base big enough to house whatever extra filament I buy for the printer startup. PLA, PETG, TPU for some Flex parts, not sure what else. Going to get some matching colors like black/white black/gray, white/gray, Black/Red, Blue/Red, etc, so, don't need a lot of colors to start. Going to buy Bambu filament with the printer and some of the cheapest I can find on Amazon of the same color and do some test prints and see how cheaper filament works compared to the Company filaments.. Any advice on Startup's is always welcome..
Does this settings work for all the models or just for specific ones?
Watch at 1.25 speed to print even faster
😉
Sometime modifying the model can really help. For example at the bottom I just remove thickness until there is only a solid panel and no infill at the base ex 3 bottom layer + 3 top layer of 0.2mm then I would set the bottom thickness to 1.2mm. I can easily do this after in the slicer by moving down the model until I don't see any infill.
If somebody would still prefer infill for increased stifness then this is not to do because a small panel with the same mass of a bigger panel with a low infill is often more flexible but not weaker tough, in fact it often is better at resisting impact due to the flexibility
The tips shown here were good, the beginning of the video was a little too long, it looks more like a commercial at the very beginning. Keep doing vids like these, if you can add expert tips in the future that would be great too!
Thanks so much for the feedback :) happy you liked the video!
But noted: shorter info and some more in depth tips 😊
@@Arne.BornheimI'm very much in favor of keeping intros as short as possible.
Generally speaking on TH-cam, it's wild how many channels give an intro and proceed to repeat the exact things they just said before getting to the actual information. I've been skipping straight to minute 1:00 or 2:00 on a lot of videos.
Great video!
Thanks ! Definitely got some inspiration from your video!
The title says it already. Too much of "trying to sell the video" at the start. Would much have preferred you just getting to the point.
If you need to get over 10min then I'd recommend just researching and adding another "how to" point, which actually adds value.
3:41 Use the right click option "height range modifier" instead (for this specific use case). Now you won't need to fiddle around with sizing and positioning a body.
4:13 Good point making people aware of! Almost nobody talks about that in their "How to faster prints" videos.
Overall nice video for beginners 👍
Thanks for your detailed feedback! Will definitely keep the intro shorter in the future :)
thanks about mentioning height modifiers! Definitely also a great tool.
My Ender 3 V2 Mod prints at 650mm/s. 😅 There is no more room for more, as it is really just a couple figures lower than grinding, overheating steppers and frame stability issues 😂.
So here is my advise: IF you want the maximum- Test your hardware first with some codes and macros, before changing amything in the printer config data. THEN tune it up in the slicer. Otherwise it will always cap the maximum. Cheers
My print went from 1 hour 28 min to 28 min. TYSM
Thanks. I learnt something
Happy to hear :) !
I have the 0.8mm nozzle and did not installed it yet, how is quality when you print 0.2mm height?
Not good. In general you wanna stay above 60% the nozzle diameter for layer height.
It’ll work if you go super slow at .2 …. In Pla.
But if you do any other material … it’s gonna be a mess. You should really stay about .38
How long have you been printing?
Explained simply.
«Лучше один день потерять, чтобы потом за пять минут долететь»
So what your saying is, it all depends on what you're printing and isn't a catch all solution
Well I think different settings are right for every print! There's no one way to do it that works all the time. It's more about having a toolkit you can use 😊
Start at 01:18.
I will be appreciate if you will not only save my print time, but also watching time.
Thanks for the feedback ! 😊 Will do in the future
im sad i didnt learn anything ):
hey, it's his first printer.. he thinks he's reinventing the wheel.
@@habiks Yeah. lol
Sorry there wasn't anything new in it for you. But are there any settings / tips you'd like to add that could further improve it ?
@@Arne.BornheimHow about if you want to make quality content that makes you money, YOU figure out new tips that would actually be helpful.
There’s nothing in this video that hasn’t been said in 100 videos over the last 5 years.
Why so much hostility? 😳
0:10 Don’t bother watching if you have been printing longer than 2 months. There’s nothing new in this video that hasn’t been said by every other TH-camr for the last 5 years.
Lmao ty
Thanks!
Hi! Ich hatte schon mal ein paar Videos von dir gesehen aber meistens nur die ersten 5 max 10 minuten. Das meiste Content war nix neues für mich (ich verfolge vieles auf Englisch), dein "click bait" video hat mir gezeigt dass du andere Sachen machen kannst als nur Reviews, was ich gar nicht gedacht hätte, z.b. Sachen mit sensors und actuators, was mich sehr interessiert. I will keep an eye on your Channel. Viel Erfolg aber auch viel Spaß ;)
😂
I find you video style a bit to dramatic, i think cutting a third as much to slightly less extreme angels, would convey the professional tone better. The quick cuts distract from the video
Thanks for the feedback!
I like the quick cuts and different angles. I’m a professional cameraman and Steadicam Operator and I think that this use of various angles in your video was creative
Bla. Bla. Bla. Bullshit Bla bla bla
Why?
Why do I keep thinking there will be a "magic hidden bullet" on these videos then absolutely nothing new is said and it's just buttons.
I'm in search for 3d slicing algorithms, not buttons that everyone sees.
I think it's about building the right toolkit that you can use depending on the situation.
What do you mean by algorithms? Something that does all the work for you or the right set of things to do to get it right all the time ?
@@Arne.Bornheim More technical stuff like speed optimized toolpaths, better bridging algortims, XYZ printing (not only XY printing), water tight walls, new developments on adaptive infills, organic supports that release more easily from the part without then need for multimaterial, etc.
Awesome. What if I’m not using Bambu Labs proprietary slicer? Thanks for nothing.
Most of these settings apply to most slicers. Also you could use orca slicer which is free, works with tons of printers and is based on Bambu Studio