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3D printed scrapers are not sharp enough and have a short life. The Bambu metal scraper is sharp but requires a great deal of care to avoid damaging the plate. Plastic razor blades are quite sharp, will not damage a plate, last a long time when scraping parts off the plates, are cheap, and have many other uses.
I use a Scraper for Ceran Cooking fields Windows etc. Very Short razorblade, replaceable and very good angle, never destroyed a bed with it, and i use it for over 5000 hours now, other scraper and scraping tools... not so good. 7-9€
I have a recommendation for you throw that scraper in the trash and get a rounded nose paint palette knife, the metal lies flat on the bed (not at an angle) and the spring steel is about as thin as a sheet of paper (gets under prints way better) and yet is almost impossible to bend or break. In fact this is what I have been using for 10 years now and I will never use a 3D printer again without one. Oh, and the brims or little bits of support, just lay the tool flat on the bed a ways away and sort of ram them, even the toughest to pry off then just pop off and go flying, only down side is when you move your printer table your going to find tons of these little bits behind it on the ground. I actually sent one of these to 3D printing nerd when he first started out. Asked him about it a year ago and he said he still uses it all the time (though I have not seen him use it on his videos)
I use Vaseline to remove the white haze caused by CA glue and activator and it works great. It is also cheaper than 3DGloop. I am on a budget, and I always have CA glue and Vaseline on hand, with having 3 kids.
As long as 3d GLOOP does not fix their shelf life, I will never buy this. 6 months after opening is ridiculous, especially with their large bottles and high price
This. I can deal with it being fairly expensive, there just isn't anything else that works as well. The problem is, the shelf life is so insanely short, they say 2-3 months after opening. They need to come up with a container/dispenser that preserves what you don't use after the first application. Like, package it as multiple individually sealed very small bottle/tube/applicators instead of a single large jar. The product is excellent, but whoever controls their packaging is just a flat-out moron.
It's a solvent with an evaporation point well below normal rom temperature. MEK and Dichloromethane are cheaper (still suffer from evaporation) but do the same job.
@@backtoearth1983 Yeah, I think DCM is the primary ingredient in gloop. I can't buy Gloop where I am, Or rather I probably could but shipping would be prohibitive, so I buy DCM off of amazon instead. But yeah, still evaporates over time. Mostly just buy a bottle when I know I'm going to do a big project that will use quite a bit, and needs the extra strength
Shelf life is exactly why I haven't bought it either. For the price, it's extremely short. Would hate to spend that much and then for it to go to waste so quickly.
@@kennyvanlimbergen7409 you can find it for cheaper and it does last quite a bit since u can print on the same athwsive like 2-3 times, I manage to print 5 times on mine
In their defense they last forever and don't need to be reapplied often. I've had mine for almost a year, and I still have over 3/4ths of it left, a little goes a very long way
@@jokingtiger exactly. Its not like 1 magigoo stick equals 1 regular glue stick. In my experience it is more like 1:5 to 1:10, depending on how thick you apply things...
“Unclog your printer’s peepee” 😂 That reminds me of when I first heard about the polypropylene magigoo variant… I ran around my house exclaiming “MAGIGOO PP!” in a funny voice. I’m 41 years old. Lmaoooooo
@@LucidFX. just spray a layer? I thought of trying aleen’s tack and tack over (i use it in mix with water for get the sticky back on my silhouette mats)
@sophiemulders yeah literally a thin layer of hairspray works. I'm always nervous of just a clean bed, especially with ABS. PLA I'm fine but still use hairspray as a habit
I will NEVER gunk up my printer surfaces with such a vile product. Hairspray leaves behind a really nasty later from the overspray, and I'd rather not have that all inside my printer. A textured bed is all you should need.
@@thenextlayerwe all know you have to say these things in videos to appease the Official Unofficial OSHA Enforcers. Whether or not you use PPE is up to you as an individual. 😉
@@SouthernWolff They'd have a point here. The main component of 3D Gloop is DCM. Besides the massive inhalation risks like going blind, liver failure, suffocation (DCM metabolizes to carbon monoxide) or getting cancer, it can also cause chemical burns, as well as be absorbed through the skin (potentially causing all the aforementioned issues), so yes, gloves are recommended. Personally, I don't want anything containing DCM in my house.
@@hellterminator I'm around worse carcinogens and chemicals daily. Like I said, whether or not you use PPE is up to you as an individual, or like you said, don't even buy/use it.
I just printed a washer with a handle with a tab and slot. I use this to hold my water bottle. I used TPU because I could squeeze the loupe past bottle top threads. Previously I had added a PLA hook that holds the handle. This on my Rolling walker.
I watched this video two days ago, and was really interested in what was said about the "Specialized Bed Adhesives from Magigoo". I am at less thanat was said about the "Specialized 3D Print Glues from 3D Gloop". I am at less than 100hrs of printing time on my Bambu Lab P1S and have been using the glue stick which works, but as you noted comes with downsides. From the possible deformations and residue on prints. I ordered the Magigoo - The 3D printing adhesive for ABS, PLA, PETG, HIPS, ASA, TPU. I literally received it 30 mins ago. Put it on the Bambu Labs textured plate, did a simple print for a spool adapter for some filament from Polymaker I am going to test for the first time. Once it finished, it came off with hardly any effort. Compared to using the glue stick which I still had to use a scraper. Thanks for this recommendation. I also now am a Magigoo raving fan. Thanks!
plan to get some magicgoo. I currently use vision miner's nano polymer adhesive and its amazing. The best part about it is that it works for everything and last for tons of prints before you need to wash and reapply.
That gloop stuff uses methylene chloride, which, essentially, melts the plastic and welds them together. I use ut for paint removal. It is nasty stuff and is illegal to sell to consumers in the United States. Im surprised they have gotten away with selling it here
I've been using Magigoo since almost the beginning with an Ender 3 in 2019. I tried Bed Weld at the suggestion of some folks in a group on FB, but my experience was that it didn't release as well. I have some pretty sharp plastic razors that came in a kit with 2 handles and 60 blades. Work well and when they lose their edge, I toss another cheap blade in.
I love the Bambu Labs scraper - I constantly use it to free prints when I'm in too much of a hurry to let the plate cool. That said, the "self-tapping screws" are complete bullshit. When I got my printer a couple of weeks back, I put my entire 200+lbs of body weight on them and couldn't get them to start tapping. I used so much force that I would have put the screwdriver clean through my hand had I slipped - and still no tappage... using the PLA they provided with the printer! I tried this for like 40+ minutes, drawing blood from one of my fingers in the process. I eventually went to my bins and grabbed a couple of my own screws - and had the thing assembled in like 30 seconds.
Excellent video. Magigoo is the real deal. Works wonders. I've used vision miner with good success as well but nothing compares to Magigoo. Honorable mention though-Bambu glue sticks go on thinner than any other glue sticks I have found. It's my backup for when the magigoo is gone.
I recently was looking through the stuff that came with my P1P and found the bed adhesive stuff. It works amazing and I can't believe I didn't notice it when I unblocked the printed almost a year ago!
I too was struggling with bed adhesion issues. My printer is an Ender 3 S1 pro. I have a PEI textured bed, and I thought I'd use glue too, only to find it does nothing. After troubleshooting everything else, and getting mostly good results, I settled on cleaning the bed instead of trying to use glue. I use Fairy dish soap and a melamine sponge. Use good amount of the soap, and scrub thoroughly several times across the bed in all directions, then wash with water, and dry with microfiber towel. If I ever have issues again I might buy that bed glue, but for now I'll try to keep the bed as clean as I can in hopes of prolonging its life.
I found a long time ago when printing ABS on a plain glass build plate to use a white pva glue like Elmers. I basically get a super thin layer by using a plastic putty knife or a credit card to squeegee it on to the glass.
I purchased the the small one and is going back. my first print come out good. the second one my filament would not stick to bed. so I cleaned my bed, washed it, reapply the thing on my bed and same problem. so clean again, apply glue this time and no problem printing.
The scraper that came with my Ender 3 Pro is vastly superior to the one you can print with my X1 Carbon. I’m glad I kept that scraper because I hate the Bambu scrapers.
I picked up an SV07 Plus a little over a month ago cause of your recommendations and its been an absolute beast! Thanks for all the great vids and always giving your honest opinion!
I use a regular paint scraper/spatula that I sharpened the top edge like a chisel and rounded the corners to not scratch the bed. I used a knife sharpening stone to shape the spatula into the perfect bed scraper. I used to use a large flimsy disposable breakoff razor box cutter to remove prints until I started using the paint scraper.
Vision miner for adhesive / release agent, dilute it by 50% with IPA and you will have a near lifetime supply. Works with any filament type, leaves no residue. Cannot print without it.
I couldn't agree more about the bed athesive, when I got my first I immediately threw the glue stuck away because, at least in my experience, it made prints basically impossible to remove from the print bed. Although I do still use it when I print flexible filaments and overall I don't use any athesive because the smooth pei sheet of my Prusa is basically indestructible, lol, 99% of everything I print sticks perfectly. As for the bed scraper, I'd never ever use one because I ruined the bed of my ender 3 with one, that's why now I'm only using plastic ones with replaceable blades, the blades only weigh a couple of grams or so (for the designs I use) so they're perfect as end of spool prints. Sometimes I do have to use a razor blade but I'd rather not do that unless I absolutely have to. Also one last thing, I'd love to know if there's any alternative for the paint repellent paint cus it's pretty expensive for me in my currency, especially for only 3ml 😅. Or at least I'd love to know how long it lasts on the nozzle and how long does it last if unused, to know if it's worth it or not. Thanks
On my MK4 I spray the plate with glass cleaner the good stuff then take Nano Polymer Adhesive put a few drops on the plate and spread it with a makeup sponge for even coat. I have not had issue with PLA and PETG not sticking to it. I have not used gloop as of yet pretty price wise. Creality Clog Poke ( this is long screwdriver type of device ) that looks like the Wham Bam you shown in the video for most users should have tools to remove the nozzle if need. And last FOSHIO Plastic Razor Blade Scraper has plastic blade just like the metal ones but will not damage the build plate
There's a number of printable scrapers that have replaceable blades, i printed one out of PETG and it's been a beast. I prefer the petg blades because they work, but they won't damage my PEI plate. One wrong move with the bambu one and that's one side of the flex plate ruined, and i'm cheap
I swear by Nano Polymer adhesive on my printers now. A very thin layer lasts a long time for PLA prints(3+ weeks with frequent printing), and it works with anything I've thrown at it( PLA, ABS, ASA, PC, TPU, Nylon, and some really weird stuff like Fiberology CPE-HT and Polymaker PPS-CF). I really only clean my build plates once a month now, and that's mostly preventative maintenance. It seems like $20 for a small bottle is super expensive, but one bottle has lasted me 4 months on both a 320x320 and a 230x150 build plate. I wish they adopted an applicator like Magigoo, but that is a really minor complaint compared to the fact that it just works with any plastic you throw at it.
I got a couple sample bottles of Nano Polymer adhesive at the RMRRF and I'm still using the first sample bottle almost 6 months later. Not printing a whole lot, but also the stuff "just works" when I use it. It'll be a while before I run out of the samples I have, but definitely recommend it for anyone else who can get their hands on it. I definitely agree that I wish they had an applicator like the Magigoo stick though...
The Magigoo reminds me of the glue that comes with Flashforge's Adventurer 5M even the cloth tip. I wonder if that is who Flashforge uses. It also has a nice smell, so I don't mind using it when I do print PLA.
Magigoo is a good solution. the liquid stick of Bambu seems the have the similar compound. Works great. If you want to go on the cheap, buy kindergarden glue (water based glue), isopropyl alcohol and some water. Mix it, in the same order as mentioned before in the ratio’s 1/2/2 and you have a magigoo competitor for a lot cheaper.
I use the Bambu scraper; I’ve printed out a couple copies of it. However, I’ve never once got the screws to tap into the plastic successfully. They’ve always been too short, so I end up using glue to secure the blade to the plastic. I’m not sure but it seems like they included different, smaller screws with my kit that don’t work correctly.
do you have a good glue recommendation for resin? I found tried painting on a little of the resin, pressing the parts together and then using a UV flashlight, but since the light cant get between the parts it doesn't work. I use weld-on-16 and its ok, but without an applicator brush it makes a huge mess every time.
I didn't know magigoo had a special tip compared to glue stick. I might try it out then. My problem with 3D Gloop is that once the bottle is open, it just doesn't last. If I buy anything bigger than their nano size (which doesn't appear on the shop anymore) then the bottle goes bad before I use even a quarter of it.
I tried to use the Magigoo PP adhesion stick, but it didn't usually stick. PP tape for epoxy coating turned out to be the best option for PP. Better adhesion and a much lower cost. But you sold me on the repellent. Since I'm going to switch to Revo hotend, this looks very useful.
best thing i ever did was do a bunch of testing with build surfaces, if you light scuff the plate with 100 grit sand paper it stivks so damn good. i love it use a smooth pei sheet in this concenpt. if yiu use g10 garolite your gonna get fiber glass in ya. do a pass horizontal, diagonal, verticle and in circles. wash with dish soap and hot water and your good to go no need to have worries of bed adhesion anymore.
The only issue I have with using the bambulab supplied scraper is that, if you aren't *extremely* careful, you can gouge your build plate (especially those textured ones), otherwise, I agree. I tend to avoid metal on non-metal whenever possible.
Great suggestions! Magigoo seems interesting, normally when my prints stop sticking I replace my PEI build plate since it's a consumable part but for things like ASA and PC it might be worth exploring.
@@thenextlayer to be honest i have not tried that since the days of making a mess with glue sticks, glass beds and not knowing how to level my bed correctly though it's worth a shot too. Since i started using powder coated PEI build plates everything PLA/PET-G just sticks 100% but over time (about a year or so) the PEI gets consumed and eagerly pulling PET-G prints off that are not cool pulls the PEI off faster too
The Vision Minor Nano Polymer stuff works well...sometimes too well for ASA. I probably only have to clean my build plate like once every dozen prints and apply the Nano Polymer sparingly. I found the Bambu metal scraper too aggressive on my build plates so I use the metal scraper that came with my Anycubic M3 Photon which is just like a 4" putty knife.
The only time I need glue stick is when printing Nylon, but I only print one type of filament per print sheet side. PETG never sticks when I printed PLA on the same sheet before. Same with almost any other combination.
I have pretty much stopped using bed adhesives, now I print PETG and some PLA for now, because I'm hoping to send my scraps to a recycler and they don't take materials with adhesives on them.
I feel that glue stick vs Magigoo is a good example of how budget and performance need impacts a decision. Buying a gluestick from the dollar store is a *lot* cheaper than a thing of Magigoo, and it does the job well enough for my needs. But it's good to know the option exists, because there will be people who have either higher performance needs, harder to work with printers than my X1C, or just less time to deal with cleaning the bed every few prints, and thus are more willing to spend money. 3D Gloop is very much the same sort of thing. At the end of the day, 3D Gloop is just a solvent suitable to your plastic type, with some thickening agents and something that makes it set quickly (which could, honestly, just be the solvent being very volatile). You can make something similar on your own by dissolving scraps plastic in the appropriate solvent. No, it won't be quite as easy to use, and yes, you'll spend more time setting it up - but it's an easy way to trade time for money if you need to. Especially since I mostly work with ABS, it's easy enough to buy a can of acetone from the hardware store and mix some scraps in, and it's a *lot* cheaper. (I work part time and have very little spare cash, so for me, anything that saves money at the cost of time is worth considering. Of course for someone like TNL who's probably always short on time, spending money on 3D Gloop is a good choice.) Either way, I very much agree that one should *never* join two parts made from identical plastics with *glue*. (3D Gloop is *not* glue, it's a solvent.) Use solvents to weld the parts together, and save glues and adhesives for woods, metal, and dissimilar materials. I actually own a vial of the anti-plastic paint, and forgot all about it. I bought it to try and deal with my godawful Ender-5's blob-of-death issues. Now that I've got a Revo Panda hotend on my X1C, I really should dig that out and coat all my nozzles with it. Thanks for the tip! On a similar vein, I'll have a look at the nozzle kit. Trying to unclog a Revo hotend is a pain in the butt. The pokey bits might be exactly what I need.
3D Gloop is more accurately a plastic cement in that it slightly dissolves the mating surfaces so when the solvents evaporate the plactic re-hardens into a single piece. Kind of like chemically welding the parts together. If you are using small amounts you should be either outside or in a room with excellent ventilation (and yourself upwind of any exposed glue). If using a lot in one sitting, you should probably have a solvent-rated respirator on in addition to the ventilation.
Looks that the Magigoo applicators have been improved. I love Magigoo, but my old stick of it had a TERRIBLE foam applicator. Glad to see they fixed that.
I made my own nozzle clog tool with a printed handle and some 2mm 308 stainless steel weld rod. Also Vison Minor nano polymer adhesive makes Magicgoo seem like WD-40. PS, glad you ditched the man bun. Keep up the awesome content. 👍
@@thenextlayer For sure the weird paint brush thing.... lack luster on Vision minors part. I also say this only having used the old basic Magicgoo, i actually learned about the others watching this so... thank you!
Glue stick dissolved in 70% IPA can be brushed on with a paintbrush or smeared with a paper towel to leave an invisible layer. Cheap and lasts forever (or until you clean the PEI with soap and water and IPA again)
“CLEAN YOUR BUILDPLATE” is #1 for bed adhesion and should be the recommended method vs glue stick. However, the majority of buildplates will lose cohesion when they cool. This means if you can’t recover from a power outage within 15 minutes or so, resuming will cause the model to detach. Glue stick will keep the model attached to a cold plate. Therefore I will glue stick the plate during storms or planned outages. The price for magigoo and other adhesives prevents me from even trying them. If the glue stick causes unacceptable artifacts then I’ll consider the more expensive options.
I have used both magigoo and a gluestick for 3d printers. I noticed no difference other than the price. I also use a pei sheet. I use petg mostly and only use gluestick for larger parts that tend to warp.
Can you share your settings for the bambu lab x1c with a revo nozzle? I have this nozzle, but prints are not as clean as the standard one and for that reason, isn't istalled on my printer. Thank you
Great Video! Thanks for the information. I do have a question for you: Slice engineering has a Mako Hotend for Bambu Lab for the X1 and P1 do you know anything about it? It's suppose to be a super nozzle that can handle the PLA/PETG-CF filaments.. I had some real problems with the PLA-CF ruining my nozzle.
Yep my next video will have some info about it but basically you can read more or preorder at jle.vi/slice Another manufacturer has a super nozzle coming out soon too…
Personally, I still use a glass print bed and aquanet hairspray for adhesion. I have done thousands of prints with this combination. I have been printing since the Robo3d printer was prototyped. (2012) the R1 had an all glass bed. I have bought many new 3d printers since and always bought a glass bed to fit each one. The glass stays flat, the hairspray is super cheap at the dollar store, smells nice and holds well. I have tried gluestick but I don't like it. The spray is liquid, and flattens out and dries tacky to the touch. It is always crystal clear and never discolors the prints. I know many people hate the hairspray method as well, but for me, its so much easier. A quick spray during the warm up process and done. After about 20 to 30 prints just use a small bit of soap and clean the glass with a razor blade. It peels right off. I think the people that have issues with hairspray are either using the wrong hairspray, or are waiting too long after spraying to print. I almost never lose adhesion unless its a super small and tall print but a brim fixes that most times. 95% of my prints I don't use a brim at all, but smaller ones do need that for any build plate.
That hairspray is getting ALL over your printer, gumming up your lead screws and blocking heat dissipation, as well as being a dust and dirt magnet on moving parts... You are actively wrecking your printers with the overspray.
@edwardpaulsen1074 i spray the glass with a shroud I printed. 99% of it stays on the bed no where else. But I get what your saying. I do clean it off with a little soap and water 2x a week, it comes off super easy when hot water and a few drops of soap are on it. A small razor scraper slides it off the glass easily. It takes less than 10 minutes to clean. But the first 3d printer I used, I didn't have a shroud and he's it had overstay but even still it ran for 6 years straight until I sold it to my brother. It's not that hard to clean up, it only needs a very tiny thin coating. It doesn't have to be poured on. I spray it for maybe a second long. I normally spray the bed while it's heating up. I find if you spray it right after turning the hot bed on, by the time it reaches temperature it's dry and tacky to the touch.
Okay after having a tube of Magigoo sitting on the shelf for months I finally tried it after this video. Pretty good stuff, but what the heck am I going to with the two boxes Elmers Glue sticks?
@@thenextlayer they are fine on textured pei but they scratch high temp smooth plates. i use the nylon razer blades from amazon $5 for 100, wont scratch my smooth PEO, PEA and PEI plates and way stronger than the ones you print..
I put the magigoo into a syringe and then wipe it on the plate with a paper towel. This gets it real thin and for the next prints, I just reuse the paper towel with alchohol and it will just redistribute the glue again that is already on the paper towel and build plate. Use a tinny piece of the paper towel though.
I know glue sticks are a pain in the ass from before but honestly the purple Elmer's is awesome. It goes on easy and washes off just as easy. Literally hot water sprays it off, or isopropyl is King. Give it a try
On the X1C the only failed bed adehesion were due to not having put proper glue on the plate. Keeping the glue stick properly capped results in a very thin layer applied. So for that I think I'll keep using glue sticks ^^;;;
$19 for 1 glue stick of the same size?! That's the price of a new bed plate. I'll take my chances with gluesticks Gonna have to replace pace at some point anyway
Me at 12:19 - What? Mine didn't come with that. Me at 12:48 - Wait, let me go check that box again. Me at 12:49 - Welp, now that the scraper is printing to go with that kit I ignored, let's get back to the video.
Magigoo PC works really well, PP/PA is ok, but I have had more luck with regular PVA glue for PA. Regular I have never had any luck with it seems to go soft at high temperature. For ABS/ASA I rather use dimafix.
Love Magigoo, it's genuinely the biggest financial outlay I have after filament and I am fine with that because ever since I started using it a few years ago my material cost through overnight failures has dropped to (almost) nothing so it has paid for itself. I don't use the PLA one because beds have got so good if you clean them/IPA scrub every print you never have adhesion issues but for PC and PA12 it is invaluable to me. I use it for TPU too as an interface for easy removal. (I was not paid for this comment).
if you keep your bed CLEAN i.e. soap and water clean, a LIGHT spray of hairspray that contains a form of vinyl NOTHING comes loose and wen it cools it just pops off NO strain or stress. all good on ender 3 S1 Plus, JG Maker Artist 2D pro, Bambu X1C, K1 and K1 Max
haha i also ignored the scraper at first when I first got the printer until friend told me about it, it is nice! I dont think I got the magnet with mine though :D
I personally hate the Bambu Labs scraper, cut my print bed on first use. I have a old 4" scraper from my 4Max and it's the best scraper I have ever used.
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3D printed scrapers are not sharp enough and have a short life. The Bambu metal scraper is sharp but requires a great deal of care to avoid damaging the plate. Plastic razor blades are quite sharp, will not damage a plate, last a long time when scraping parts off the plates, are cheap, and have many other uses.
these are a real life saver.
I also use the plastic razor blades as my primary scraper and fall back to the bambu scraper if something is reeeeeeally stuck
Speak for yourself, I've greatly benefited from printing a scraper from filament
For purge lines I only use printed scrapers, and specifically a round one. I love it!
I use a Scraper for Ceran Cooking fields Windows etc. Very Short razorblade, replaceable and very good angle, never destroyed a bed with it, and i use it for over 5000 hours now, other scraper and scraping tools... not so good. 7-9€
I have a recommendation for you throw that scraper in the trash and get a rounded nose paint palette knife, the metal lies flat on the bed (not at an angle) and the spring steel is about as thin as a sheet of paper (gets under prints way better) and yet is almost impossible to bend or break. In fact this is what I have been using for 10 years now and I will never use a 3D printer again without one. Oh, and the brims or little bits of support, just lay the tool flat on the bed a ways away and sort of ram them, even the toughest to pry off then just pop off and go flying, only down side is when you move your printer table your going to find tons of these little bits behind it on the ground. I actually sent one of these to 3D printing nerd when he first started out. Asked him about it a year ago and he said he still uses it all the time (though I have not seen him use it on his videos)
I use Vaseline to remove the white haze caused by CA glue and activator and it works great. It is also cheaper than 3DGloop. I am on a budget, and I always have CA glue and Vaseline on hand, with having 3 kids.
@@jokingtiger thanks for the tip
It's also way less toxic than 3D Gloop.
Gonna have to try the Vaseline next time I get the "whites" from CA.
Switch to epoxy... holds better and no haze
As long as 3d GLOOP does not fix their shelf life, I will never buy this. 6 months after opening is ridiculous, especially with their large bottles and high price
This. I can deal with it being fairly expensive, there just isn't anything else that works as well. The problem is, the shelf life is so insanely short, they say 2-3 months after opening. They need to come up with a container/dispenser that preserves what you don't use after the first application. Like, package it as multiple individually sealed very small bottle/tube/applicators instead of a single large jar.
The product is excellent, but whoever controls their packaging is just a flat-out moron.
It's a solvent with an evaporation point well below normal rom temperature. MEK and Dichloromethane are cheaper (still suffer from evaporation) but do the same job.
@@backtoearth1983 Yeah, I think DCM is the primary ingredient in gloop. I can't buy Gloop where I am, Or rather I probably could but shipping would be prohibitive, so I buy DCM off of amazon instead. But yeah, still evaporates over time. Mostly just buy a bottle when I know I'm going to do a big project that will use quite a bit, and needs the extra strength
@@backtoearth1983 Dichloromethane is the main ingredient of 3D Gloop. Which is why I don't want it. DCM is pretty nasty stuff.
Shelf life is exactly why I haven't bought it either. For the price, it's extremely short. Would hate to spend that much and then for it to go to waste so quickly.
$20 a stick for Magigoo?! OUCH!
@@JGDeRuvo for very small one.
Idd i was searching too but i found it too expensive for what it is
@@kennyvanlimbergen7409 you can find it for cheaper and it does last quite a bit since u can print on the same athwsive like 2-3 times, I manage to print 5 times on mine
In their defense they last forever and don't need to be reapplied often. I've had mine for almost a year, and I still have over 3/4ths of it left, a little goes a very long way
@@jokingtiger exactly. Its not like 1 magigoo stick equals 1 regular glue stick. In my experience it is more like 1:5 to 1:10, depending on how thick you apply things...
Thanks for all nice tips! ❤
WOW, thank you Jason!
“Unclog your printer’s peepee” 😂 That reminds me of when I first heard about the polypropylene magigoo variant… I ran around my house exclaiming “MAGIGOO PP!” in a funny voice. I’m 41 years old. Lmaoooooo
I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that line
Lol, I didn't believe my X1c came with the scraper parts, but I looked again, and you were right!
Bed adhesion....cheap hairspray has never failed me.
EXACTLY!! i print everything with hairspray - as long as it contains a form of vinyl it is good.
@@LucidFX. just spray a layer?
I thought of trying aleen’s tack and tack over (i use it in mix with water for get the sticky back on my silhouette mats)
@sophiemulders yeah literally a thin layer of hairspray works. I'm always nervous of just a clean bed, especially with ABS. PLA I'm fine but still use hairspray as a habit
I will NEVER gunk up my printer surfaces with such a vile product. Hairspray leaves behind a really nasty later from the overspray, and I'd rather not have that all inside my printer. A textured bed is all you should need.
@@-Primer- same. Last time I went to buy a big can of suave max hold, it was 2 bucks. Lasts 6-12 months
"Gloves are required" Also in the video: Using the Glue without Gloves. xD
Yeah... I caught that too. Oops.
@@thenextlayerwe all know you have to say these things in videos to appease the Official Unofficial OSHA Enforcers. Whether or not you use PPE is up to you as an individual. 😉
Really promotes the "safety third" mentality 😂
@@SouthernWolff They'd have a point here. The main component of 3D Gloop is DCM. Besides the massive inhalation risks like going blind, liver failure, suffocation (DCM metabolizes to carbon monoxide) or getting cancer, it can also cause chemical burns, as well as be absorbed through the skin (potentially causing all the aforementioned issues), so yes, gloves are recommended.
Personally, I don't want anything containing DCM in my house.
@@hellterminator I'm around worse carcinogens and chemicals daily. Like I said, whether or not you use PPE is up to you as an individual, or like you said, don't even buy/use it.
I just printed a washer with a handle with a tab and slot. I use this to hold my water bottle. I used TPU because I could squeeze the loupe past bottle top threads. Previously I had added a PLA hook that holds the handle. This on my Rolling walker.
I just went through my leftover bambu labs stuff and found the scraper parts. I never even knew about it! Thanks for sharing!
I watched this video two days ago, and was really interested in what was said about the "Specialized Bed Adhesives from Magigoo". I am at less thanat was said about the "Specialized 3D Print Glues from 3D Gloop". I am at less than 100hrs of printing time on my Bambu Lab P1S and have been using the glue stick which works, but as you noted comes with downsides. From the possible deformations and residue on prints. I ordered the Magigoo - The 3D printing adhesive for ABS, PLA, PETG, HIPS, ASA, TPU. I literally received it 30 mins ago. Put it on the Bambu Labs textured plate, did a simple print for a spool adapter for some filament from Polymaker I am going to test for the first time. Once it finished, it came off with hardly any effort. Compared to using the glue stick which I still had to use a scraper. Thanks for this recommendation. I also now am a Magigoo raving fan. Thanks!
plan to get some magicgoo. I currently use vision miner's nano polymer adhesive and its amazing. The best part about it is that it works for everything and last for tons of prints before you need to wash and reapply.
Yep, same. I wonder how they compare.
it's not cheap
@@JBCool0729 I think it's the same price, if not cheaper, than the Magigoo sticks.
That gloop stuff uses methylene chloride, which, essentially, melts the plastic and welds them together. I use ut for paint removal. It is nasty stuff and is illegal to sell to consumers in the United States. Im surprised they have gotten away with selling it here
I've been using Magigoo since almost the beginning with an Ender 3 in 2019. I tried Bed Weld at the suggestion of some folks in a group on FB, but my experience was that it didn't release as well. I have some pretty sharp plastic razors that came in a kit with 2 handles and 60 blades. Work well and when they lose their edge, I toss another cheap blade in.
I love the Bambu Labs scraper - I constantly use it to free prints when I'm in too much of a hurry to let the plate cool. That said, the "self-tapping screws" are complete bullshit. When I got my printer a couple of weeks back, I put my entire 200+lbs of body weight on them and couldn't get them to start tapping. I used so much force that I would have put the screwdriver clean through my hand had I slipped - and still no tappage... using the PLA they provided with the printer! I tried this for like 40+ minutes, drawing blood from one of my fingers in the process. I eventually went to my bins and grabbed a couple of my own screws - and had the thing assembled in like 30 seconds.
I’ve read in a couple places that grape seed oil works well to coat the nozzle because of its high temp property.
Excellent video. Magigoo is the real deal. Works wonders. I've used vision miner with good success as well but nothing compares to Magigoo. Honorable mention though-Bambu glue sticks go on thinner than any other glue sticks I have found. It's my backup for when the magigoo is gone.
Absolutely love your channel. I have gotten so many great ideas!
Thanks! I’m honored.
I recently was looking through the stuff that came with my P1P and found the bed adhesive stuff. It works amazing and I can't believe I didn't notice it when I unblocked the printed almost a year ago!
I've had no issues with 3DLac for bed adhesion although it is pretty much rebottled hairspray
I too was struggling with bed adhesion issues. My printer is an Ender 3 S1 pro.
I have a PEI textured bed, and I thought I'd use glue too, only to find it does nothing.
After troubleshooting everything else, and getting mostly good results, I settled on cleaning the bed instead of trying to use glue. I use Fairy dish soap and a melamine sponge.
Use good amount of the soap, and scrub thoroughly several times across the bed in all directions, then wash with water, and dry with microfiber towel. If I ever have issues again I might buy that bed glue, but for now I'll try to keep the bed as clean as I can in hopes of prolonging its life.
I found a long time ago when printing ABS on a plain glass build plate to use a white pva glue like Elmers. I basically get a super thin layer by using a plastic putty knife or a credit card to squeegee it on to the glass.
I purchased the the small one and is going back. my first print come out good. the second one my filament would not stick to bed. so I cleaned my bed, washed it, reapply the thing on my bed and same problem. so clean again, apply glue this time and no problem printing.
Started to wonder why I suddenly had a few orders for the Plastic Repellent Paint, loaded up my subscriptions and now I know :D
The scraper that came with my Ender 3 Pro is vastly superior to the one you can print with my X1 Carbon. I’m glad I kept that scraper because I hate the Bambu scrapers.
I picked up an SV07 Plus a little over a month ago cause of your recommendations and its been an absolute beast! Thanks for all the great vids and always giving your honest opinion!
Glad to hear it!!!
I use a regular paint scraper/spatula that I sharpened the top edge like a chisel and rounded the corners to not scratch the bed. I used a knife sharpening stone to shape the spatula into the perfect bed scraper.
I used to use a large flimsy disposable breakoff razor box cutter to remove prints until I started using the paint scraper.
Thanks!
Wow, thanks! Really appreciate this.
Vision miner for adhesive / release agent, dilute it by 50% with IPA and you will have a near lifetime supply. Works with any filament type, leaves no residue. Cannot print without it.
i immediately ordered the magigoo and the nozzle maint kit. thanks for sharing this
Hope you like it!
I couldn't agree more about the bed athesive, when I got my first I immediately threw the glue stuck away because, at least in my experience, it made prints basically impossible to remove from the print bed. Although I do still use it when I print flexible filaments and overall I don't use any athesive because the smooth pei sheet of my Prusa is basically indestructible, lol, 99% of everything I print sticks perfectly.
As for the bed scraper, I'd never ever use one because I ruined the bed of my ender 3 with one, that's why now I'm only using plastic ones with replaceable blades, the blades only weigh a couple of grams or so (for the designs I use) so they're perfect as end of spool prints. Sometimes I do have to use a razor blade but I'd rather not do that unless I absolutely have to.
Also one last thing, I'd love to know if there's any alternative for the paint repellent paint cus it's pretty expensive for me in my currency, especially for only 3ml 😅. Or at least I'd love to know how long it lasts on the nozzle and how long does it last if unused, to know if it's worth it or not. Thanks
Thanks for the comment!
On my MK4 I spray the plate with glass cleaner the good stuff then take Nano Polymer Adhesive put a few drops on the plate and spread it with a makeup sponge for even coat. I have not had issue with PLA and PETG not sticking to it. I have not used gloop as of yet pretty price wise. Creality Clog Poke ( this is long screwdriver type of device ) that looks like the Wham Bam you shown in the video for most users should have tools to remove the nozzle if need. And last FOSHIO Plastic Razor Blade Scraper has plastic blade just like the metal ones but will not damage the build plate
There's a number of printable scrapers that have replaceable blades, i printed one out of PETG and it's been a beast. I prefer the petg blades because they work, but they won't damage my PEI plate. One wrong move with the bambu one and that's one side of the flex plate ruined, and i'm cheap
I swear by Nano Polymer adhesive on my printers now. A very thin layer lasts a long time for PLA prints(3+ weeks with frequent printing), and it works with anything I've thrown at it( PLA, ABS, ASA, PC, TPU, Nylon, and some really weird stuff like Fiberology CPE-HT and Polymaker PPS-CF). I really only clean my build plates once a month now, and that's mostly preventative maintenance. It seems like $20 for a small bottle is super expensive, but one bottle has lasted me 4 months on both a 320x320 and a 230x150 build plate. I wish they adopted an applicator like Magigoo, but that is a really minor complaint compared to the fact that it just works with any plastic you throw at it.
I got a couple sample bottles of Nano Polymer adhesive at the RMRRF and I'm still using the first sample bottle almost 6 months later. Not printing a whole lot, but also the stuff "just works" when I use it. It'll be a while before I run out of the samples I have, but definitely recommend it for anyone else who can get their hands on it. I definitely agree that I wish they had an applicator like the Magigoo stick though...
Thank you so much for sharing the plastic repellant paint. It's amazing for PETG and have legitimately become a staple.
So glad to hear
I wish I knew about those bed adhesives before. Getting them right away!
You won’t regret it brother
The Magigoo reminds me of the glue that comes with Flashforge's Adventurer 5M even the cloth tip. I wonder if that is who Flashforge uses. It also has a nice smell, so I don't mind using it when I do print PLA.
Magigoo is a good solution. the liquid stick of Bambu seems the have the similar compound. Works great.
If you want to go on the cheap, buy kindergarden glue (water based glue), isopropyl alcohol and some water. Mix it, in the same order as mentioned before in the ratio’s 1/2/2 and you have a magigoo competitor for a lot cheaper.
I use the Bambu scraper; I’ve printed out a couple copies of it. However, I’ve never once got the screws to tap into the plastic successfully. They’ve always been too short, so I end up using glue to secure the blade to the plastic. I’m not sure but it seems like they included different, smaller screws with my kit that don’t work correctly.
do you have a good glue recommendation for resin? I found tried painting on a little of the resin, pressing the parts together and then using a UV flashlight, but since the light cant get between the parts it doesn't work. I use weld-on-16 and its ok, but without an applicator brush it makes a huge mess every time.
Great video mate!, very informative and i can just agree with what you've said.
(also reminding me... i needa stock up on these again 😅)
I thought one of the containers in the thumbnail was a beer bottle and I immediately agreed with your list 😅
I didn't know magigoo had a special tip compared to glue stick. I might try it out then. My problem with 3D Gloop is that once the bottle is open, it just doesn't last. If I buy anything bigger than their nano size (which doesn't appear on the shop anymore) then the bottle goes bad before I use even a quarter of it.
I agree with that. They have the new purple bottles that are sealed but it’s still not long for this world after opening
I tried to use the Magigoo PP adhesion stick, but it didn't usually stick. PP tape for epoxy coating turned out to be the best option for PP. Better adhesion and a much lower cost.
But you sold me on the repellent. Since I'm going to switch to Revo hotend, this looks very useful.
best thing i ever did was do a bunch of testing with build surfaces, if you light scuff the plate with 100 grit sand paper it stivks so damn good. i love it use a smooth pei sheet in this concenpt. if yiu use g10 garolite your gonna get fiber glass in ya. do a pass horizontal, diagonal, verticle and in circles. wash with dish soap and hot water and your good to go no need to have worries of bed adhesion anymore.
What is the box being assembled at 10:21?
The only issue I have with using the bambulab supplied scraper is that, if you aren't *extremely* careful, you can gouge your build plate (especially those textured ones), otherwise, I agree. I tend to avoid metal on non-metal whenever possible.
Great suggestions! Magigoo seems interesting, normally when my prints stop sticking I replace my PEI build plate since it's a consumable part but for things like ASA and PC it might be worth exploring.
You REPLACE IT?! You know you can wash it, right...?
@@The_Makers_Prerogative try Magigoo PC, it would be great for both of these materials… and your build plate will last longer 👌🏻
@@thenextlayer to be honest i have not tried that since the days of making a mess with glue sticks, glass beds and not knowing how to level my bed correctly though it's worth a shot too. Since i started using powder coated PEI build plates everything PLA/PET-G just sticks 100% but over time (about a year or so) the PEI gets consumed and eagerly pulling PET-G prints off that are not cool pulls the PEI off faster too
Definitely gonna check out a couple of these
The Vision Minor Nano Polymer stuff works well...sometimes too well for ASA. I probably only have to clean my build plate like once every dozen prints and apply the Nano Polymer sparingly. I found the Bambu metal scraper too aggressive on my build plates so I use the metal scraper that came with my Anycubic M3 Photon which is just like a 4" putty knife.
The only time I need glue stick is when printing Nylon, but I only print one type of filament per print sheet side. PETG never sticks when I printed PLA on the same sheet before. Same with almost any other combination.
Does glue stick give off any toxic fumes when heated up on the print bed?
I have pretty much stopped using bed adhesives, now I print PETG and some PLA for now, because I'm hoping to send my scraps to a recycler and they don't take materials with adhesives on them.
Yeah PETG sticks too well by itself so you’re good.
Every time with a new amazing video!
I feel that glue stick vs Magigoo is a good example of how budget and performance need impacts a decision. Buying a gluestick from the dollar store is a *lot* cheaper than a thing of Magigoo, and it does the job well enough for my needs. But it's good to know the option exists, because there will be people who have either higher performance needs, harder to work with printers than my X1C, or just less time to deal with cleaning the bed every few prints, and thus are more willing to spend money.
3D Gloop is very much the same sort of thing. At the end of the day, 3D Gloop is just a solvent suitable to your plastic type, with some thickening agents and something that makes it set quickly (which could, honestly, just be the solvent being very volatile). You can make something similar on your own by dissolving scraps plastic in the appropriate solvent. No, it won't be quite as easy to use, and yes, you'll spend more time setting it up - but it's an easy way to trade time for money if you need to. Especially since I mostly work with ABS, it's easy enough to buy a can of acetone from the hardware store and mix some scraps in, and it's a *lot* cheaper. (I work part time and have very little spare cash, so for me, anything that saves money at the cost of time is worth considering. Of course for someone like TNL who's probably always short on time, spending money on 3D Gloop is a good choice.)
Either way, I very much agree that one should *never* join two parts made from identical plastics with *glue*. (3D Gloop is *not* glue, it's a solvent.) Use solvents to weld the parts together, and save glues and adhesives for woods, metal, and dissimilar materials.
I actually own a vial of the anti-plastic paint, and forgot all about it. I bought it to try and deal with my godawful Ender-5's blob-of-death issues. Now that I've got a Revo Panda hotend on my X1C, I really should dig that out and coat all my nozzles with it. Thanks for the tip!
On a similar vein, I'll have a look at the nozzle kit. Trying to unclog a Revo hotend is a pain in the butt. The pokey bits might be exactly what I need.
"i have personally stabbed under my fingernails with that strong pointy triangle from hell" - I can definitely relate to this...
3D Gloop is more accurately a plastic cement in that it slightly dissolves the mating surfaces so when the solvents evaporate the plactic re-hardens into a single piece. Kind of like chemically welding the parts together. If you are using small amounts you should be either outside or in a room with excellent ventilation (and yourself upwind of any exposed glue). If using a lot in one sitting, you should probably have a solvent-rated respirator on in addition to the ventilation.
Looks that the Magigoo applicators have been improved. I love Magigoo, but my old stick of it had a TERRIBLE foam applicator. Glad to see they fixed that.
I made my own nozzle clog tool with a printed handle and some 2mm 308 stainless steel weld rod.
Also Vison Minor nano polymer adhesive makes Magicgoo seem like WD-40.
PS, glad you ditched the man bun. Keep up the awesome content. 👍
Whoa, seriously? Vision Miner is THAT good? The thing is, they don't have the applicator, which I don't know if I'd like... but I'll have to try some.
@@thenextlayer For sure the weird paint brush thing.... lack luster on Vision minors part. I also say this only having used the old basic Magicgoo, i actually learned about the others watching this so... thank you!
As someone who just got into the hobby thank you for your videos and resources. This video was great for me!
Glad to hear it!
Glue stick dissolved in 70% IPA can be brushed on with a paintbrush or smeared with a paper towel to leave an invisible layer. Cheap and lasts forever (or until you clean the PEI with soap and water and IPA again)
The plastic repellent paint blew my mind and I just ordered one 🙌
Nice. Enjoy!! Thanks for supporting the channel
I recommend 3dlac its awesome and has a huge shelf life
I've been using the magicgoo on my elegoo for pla for over a year, it works awesome!
“CLEAN YOUR BUILDPLATE” is #1 for bed adhesion and should be the recommended method vs glue stick. However, the majority of buildplates will lose cohesion when they cool. This means if you can’t recover from a power outage within 15 minutes or so, resuming will cause the model to detach. Glue stick will keep the model attached to a cold plate. Therefore I will glue stick the plate during storms or planned outages. The price for magigoo and other adhesives prevents me from even trying them. If the glue stick causes unacceptable artifacts then I’ll consider the more expensive options.
I have used both magigoo and a gluestick for 3d printers. I noticed no difference other than the price. I also use a pei sheet. I use petg mostly and only use gluestick for larger parts that tend to warp.
Thanks. Did not know about Slice PRP. Ordered a bottle.
I have an old cheap airbrush. The old worn needles were handy for unclogging the nozzle.
Can you share your settings for the bambu lab x1c with a revo nozzle?
I have this nozzle, but prints are not as clean as the standard one and for that reason, isn't istalled on my printer.
Thank you
I run standard settings actually. High flow nozzle.
Thanks for making this. I need that nozzle paint bad!
Great Video! Thanks for the information. I do have a question for you: Slice engineering has a Mako Hotend for Bambu Lab for the X1 and P1 do you know anything about it? It's suppose to be a super nozzle that can handle the PLA/PETG-CF filaments.. I had some real problems with the PLA-CF ruining my nozzle.
Yep my next video will have some info about it but basically you can read more or preorder at jle.vi/slice
Another manufacturer has a super nozzle coming out soon too…
Personally, I still use a glass print bed and aquanet hairspray for adhesion. I have done thousands of prints with this combination. I have been printing since the Robo3d printer was prototyped. (2012) the R1 had an all glass bed. I have bought many new 3d printers since and always bought a glass bed to fit each one. The glass stays flat, the hairspray is super cheap at the dollar store, smells nice and holds well. I have tried gluestick but I don't like it. The spray is liquid, and flattens out and dries tacky to the touch. It is always crystal clear and never discolors the prints. I know many people hate the hairspray method as well, but for me, its so much easier. A quick spray during the warm up process and done. After about 20 to 30 prints just use a small bit of soap and clean the glass with a razor blade. It peels right off. I think the people that have issues with hairspray are either using the wrong hairspray, or are waiting too long after spraying to print. I almost never lose adhesion unless its a super small and tall print but a brim fixes that most times. 95% of my prints I don't use a brim at all, but smaller ones do need that for any build plate.
That hairspray is getting ALL over your printer, gumming up your lead screws and blocking heat dissipation, as well as being a dust and dirt magnet on moving parts... You are actively wrecking your printers with the overspray.
@edwardpaulsen1074 i spray the glass with a shroud I printed. 99% of it stays on the bed no where else. But I get what your saying. I do clean it off with a little soap and water 2x a week, it comes off super easy when hot water and a few drops of soap are on it. A small razor scraper slides it off the glass easily. It takes less than 10 minutes to clean. But the first 3d printer I used, I didn't have a shroud and he's it had overstay but even still it ran for 6 years straight until I sold it to my brother. It's not that hard to clean up, it only needs a very tiny thin coating. It doesn't have to be poured on. I spray it for maybe a second long. I normally spray the bed while it's heating up. I find if you spray it right after turning the hot bed on, by the time it reaches temperature it's dry and tacky to the touch.
3DLac lasts forever and I’ve never had a lift or fail due to bed adhesion ever
Glue stick thinned down with water works really well.
I've never needed bed adhesive since I got a cheap piece of G10 to print on. Shout out to Angus at Maker's Muse for that suggestion.
Why do you prefer the revo ecosystem as opposed to something like the bambu modded hotends that accept screw-in nozzles (v6 nozzles, I think)?
More options like diamond nozzles, probing solutions etc
Okay after having a tube of Magigoo sitting on the shelf for months I finally tried it after this video. Pretty good stuff, but what the heck am I going to with the two boxes Elmers Glue sticks?
Use it.
Do I scrape of the slice engendering paint with brass brush?
dont use the bambu scrapper on high temp or smooth PEI plates unless you love scratches
Never had a problem…?
@@thenextlayer they are fine on textured pei but they scratch high temp smooth plates. i use the nylon razer blades from amazon $5 for 100, wont scratch my smooth PEO, PEA and PEI plates and way stronger than the ones you print..
I put the magigoo into a syringe and then wipe it on the plate with a paper towel. This gets it real thin and for the next prints, I just reuse the paper towel with alchohol and it will just redistribute the glue again that is already on the paper towel and build plate. Use a tinny piece of the paper towel though.
I always use 3DLac and it works for all that i printed so far.
I know glue sticks are a pain in the ass from before but honestly the purple Elmer's is awesome. It goes on easy and washes off just as easy. Literally hot water sprays it off, or isopropyl is King. Give it a try
But it goes on wayyyyyy too thick especially on textured build surfaces
On the X1C the only failed bed adehesion were due to not having put proper glue on the plate. Keeping the glue stick properly capped results in a very thin layer applied. So for that I think I'll keep using glue sticks ^^;;;
$19 for 1 glue stick of the same size?!
That's the price of a new bed plate. I'll take my chances with gluesticks
Gonna have to replace pace at some point anyway
Me at 12:19 - What? Mine didn't come with that.
Me at 12:48 - Wait, let me go check that box again.
Me at 12:49 - Welp, now that the scraper is printing to go with that kit I ignored, let's get back to the video.
Magigoo PC works really well, PP/PA is ok, but I have had more luck with regular PVA glue for PA. Regular I have never had any luck with it seems to go soft at high temperature. For ABS/ASA I rather use dimafix.
Love Magigoo, it's genuinely the biggest financial outlay I have after filament and I am fine with that because ever since I started using it a few years ago my material cost through overnight failures has dropped to (almost) nothing so it has paid for itself. I don't use the PLA one because beds have got so good if you clean them/IPA scrub every print you never have adhesion issues but for PC and PA12 it is invaluable to me. I use it for TPU too as an interface for easy removal. (I was not paid for this comment).
Yep. This is exactly my stance. I don’t get bed adhesion failures anymore unless it’s a bed I haven’t applied magigoo to yet.
I've been using Vision Miner with decent results so far; though I don't usually print things that are too challenging, so 🤷🏿♀️
if you keep your bed CLEAN i.e. soap and water clean, a LIGHT spray of hairspray that contains a form of vinyl NOTHING comes loose and wen it cools it just pops off NO strain or stress. all good on ender 3 S1 Plus, JG Maker Artist 2D pro, Bambu X1C, K1 and K1 Max
Isn't using a metal scraper likely to damage the build plate?
Helpful, subscribed.
haha i also ignored the scraper at first when I first got the printer until friend told me about it, it is nice!
I dont think I got the magnet with mine though :D
I personally hate the Bambu Labs scraper, cut my print bed on first use. I have a old 4" scraper from my 4Max and it's the best scraper I have ever used.
I did have the texture come off of a build plate using Magigoo using ABS, butits so good I just replaced the build plate.
Whoa, that's crazy. Did you let it cool first...?
I wish 3D-gloop was available in the EU, it feels impossible to get
It’s not?! Dang. Seems like something CNC Kitchen should stick and sell, assuming it’s legal to import.
Ameliorated, good word
Perfect SAT English score, what what!!!!
It's why my rifle's name is "Amelia". 😄
I gotta get these. They will help a lot.