It's an amazing video. Thanks for doing it. I had one issue while replicating what you did. In order to remove the 17mm nut, i had to hold the adjuster with the 5mm Allen key, so that the bolt doesn't move the adjuster bolt. It would be great if you can edit the video and repost it. It might help people. Thanks again.
Great video! I did the adjustments while on the side stand. I notice the scale on the adjusters is not the same on both sides, the line marks on the adjusters are lined up uneven, should I be concerned?
All of your videos are very informative but just want to point out in this one how important it is to HOLD THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW IN PLACE WHILE LOOSENING THE LOCKNUT, otherwise the former will probably turn with the latter, and any chance of precision gone with it. Also I hear the bike should be on its kickstand? that sure makes it more difficult to find the chain's tightest spot.... the not sure anyone's mentioned it in all the comments so far
Thank you for the video. You mentioned quarter turns on the adjuster but my fear is when i do this, it won't be exact on both sides unless there is some way to measure the exact turn of the adjuster nut. Do you have any advise on how one can measure exactly the amount of adjustment?
hi John, i have the bike on a paddock stand, so the bike is relatively level, i then use gravity since it is a constant to let my ratchet handle settle at the bottom, after which i turn it from the 6 o clock position to the 9 o clock position. I do not have a more accurate measuring method unfortunately. Keep in mind that the engineers that designed the system have accounted for everyday users not to have precise measuring instruments while making these adjustments. The best way to insure that the rear wheel is aligned is to use a chain alignment tool like the one you see me using in this video. th-cam.com/video/kTuBu645448/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I just did a full chain clean l, then chain wax and adjusted it. Edit also if you lose count on how many times you turned the adjustment there are markers on yhe arms .
Hey there. I was watching your other video on rear tire change. In that video you say the axel nut is 43 ft lbs and this one your saying 74 ft lbs. can you clarify which is the correct torque. Thanks for the videos
Hi Kenneth! The rear is 74 foot lbs and the front is 43 ft lbs, are you sure you were watching the rear wheel removal video and not the front? If you could link that video I'd appreciate it so that I can fix it if there's an error. Thank you for bringing it to my attention brother. 🤙
stupid question...isn t it better to test it when you are sitting on the bike because once you sit it will stretch the chain more giving less play right?
That's a great question actually! You have to take into account that when the suspension is compressed, the chain is under additional strain, so if we set it when the suspension is compressed, it will lead to the chain being too loose when the suspension has rebounded, which may lead to the chain coming off the sprocket. It is best to follow the manufacturer's manual as it may vary between different bikes. Thank you for asking a question that many of us have! 🙏
Thank you Marianne! I have been using the one you see in the video since 2009! Still works! www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-5-80-ft-lb-click-torque-wrench-63880.html
Is it not necessary to pull the chain either up or down, to set zero at that point, then pull it in the opposite direction to measure complete chain slack? You seem to be measuring only one direction of play.
Hi Mark, you'll most likely find 10 different answers to this question.... This is the way i've always done mine, but it's up to you how you would like to do it on your bike. There is a tool out there that takes the guess work out, i haven't personally used it though.
To be fair, the owners manual is poor - at least the one that came with my girlfriend’s Rebel 11 is. It doesn’t make it clear - in fact it doesn’t even cover chain adjustment, just checking the tension
It's hard to tell brother, if it was me, i would loosen the rear axle nut as well as the lock nuts, and ensure that the cap is fully seated. Sometimes pulling rearward on the rear wheel will help, keep in min that the chain's weight and tension is pulling the left side forward. I also recommend getting a chain alignment tool if you haven't got one, just added peace of mind.
I did my first adjustment today and i cant get the right side of the axel the stay centered in the adjustment plate and it goes crooked when i torque the axle 😢
I'm glad you found it helpful! 🙏 I use a harbor freight swingarm stand, I'll link a detailed video. Keep in mind that you will need to modify it to make it work with the stock exhaust.
@@ontherebel11 You're a hero! Hahaha I have that exact stand but didn't realize I'd need to mod it like you did at the beginning. So glad I found your videos. I'll be back often!
Hello there, Thanks for the video, For now the Harbor Freight stand should do the job, not willing to spend over $300 for others and only for one. What do you have at the front wheel. I want to start preparing the motorcycle for winter storage.
Hi Daniel, that is a smart decision! I haven't gotten a front stand yet, I'm still thinking about it, but if I find a harbor freight one I might get it.
Do you rotate the wheel to find the tightest point, and then make your adjustment from there? That’s how I have to do the primary chain on my Sportster, so I was assuming it would be the same practice for all bikes. I could be wrong though.
Not on the rebel, you check how much slack without needing to turn the wheel. I've only made adjustments on Japanese bikes so far, so I have no experience with Harleys, just learnt something new, thanks for sharing brother! 👍
@@ontherebel11 awesome, that simplifies the job so much. I’m really not sure why you have to rotate the wheel on a Harley and adjust from the tightest spot. I’m guessing because only the primary is chain, but the rear drive is belt…who knows, but I’ll be honest…I don’t. I just go off what I’ve read and watched others do. It’s not hard, but it’s a hassle. You have to remove spark plugs, put the bike in 5th gear, and then rotate the wheel checking the chain 3 or 4 times. The simplicity of the Rebel is another reason why I love mine. Thanks for your response and all of your hands on videos!
This is my understanding of any chain adjustment, as the wear will vary over any given length of chain, so it must be adjusted at its tightest spot, otherwise you risk a catastrophic snap. Great video though, keep them coming.
Does the bike need to be jacked up or on a stand? Can I adjust the chain while the bike is just on the kick stand? What if someone else holds the bike straight upright without applying downward pressure? Thank you.
@@ontherebel11 Oh okay thanks. I don’t have a stand yet. My only issue is I don’t know if the Burly Brand stiletto shocks will work with the T-Rex center stand. I would probably have to attach the stand first, then shocks, then chain adjustment but will the shocks raise the bike too much to where the center stand will no longer hold the bike up?
@@andrewnelson1369 that's a good question, I know it raises the seat height by a couple of inches but not sure if it increases the ground clearance to affect the center stand, it might though.... I wish I had a definitive answer brother... I haven't seen anyone with the stilletos and center stand. 👍
Hi Justin, technically you could do it, but here's a stand to help you out that will work with the T model, you'll need it to oil your chain. th-cam.com/video/TZFzdgvMMWE/w-d-xo.html
@@ontherebel11 Okay thank you. I’ve always used a chain tension tool to check the slack. Once I establish a good zero, I’ve always just pushed down until I couldn’t anymore and looked at what the tool was showing.
Hi there. I am enjoying all your videos. What I would like to ask is "what brand rear paddock stand do you use under the bike as I have heard finding one wide enough is difficult.
Thank you Andrew! I'm using the harbor freight swingarm stand, it works great for a fraction of the cost! you will have to add 2x4 blocks like in the video if you use it with the stock exhaust. here is the link in case you are interested in getting one www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-swingarm-rear-stand-65620.html
I think I did this right. Chain measured within spec. But right afterwards my ABS light came on, stayed on and then started blinking/flashing :( Anyone have any troubleshooting advice? The whole point of trying to DIY it was not to pay a shop to adjust the chain and now I might still have to go into one.
@@ontherebel11 Just one day's worth. The ABS light comes on as solid. Then at about 30mph starts to flash. The manual says that this could be caused by turning the rear wheel while elevated (I did that as I cleaned and lubed the chain) but that the simple solution is turn the ignition to off and then on again and then the light should go off with some driving. Still hasn't happened yet so fingers crossed. If anyone has tips I'm all ears.
@@MarcGarcia-y4m start the bike ride over 30 mph, and then turn it off with the key, let it rest for a couple of minutes and then repeat for 3 times. The system usually resets after 3 cycles. good luck.
I just brought my 2023 Rebel 1100 home. I don't care to spend $50. Plus $45. shipping and handling for a service manual. I'd like to know the recommended torque setting for oil drain plugs when I do my own oil changes. Thanks in advance for any fellow rebel 1100 owner who can answer my question. Pray for an early spring!
Hi Craig! Congratulations brother! There is a maintenance Playlist that I'll link, you'll find all the torque specs and step by step video for each procedure based on the service manual. 🤙
@@ontherebel11 I can't thank you enough! One additional question. I've owned a bigger bike that required premium fuel. Do you recommend using premium or would 87 octane containing 10% ethanol work well in my bike? Safe riding!
Anytime brother! 🤙 The rebel will run on any of them, there is no tangible evidence that one is better than the other for the rebel. I just completed 1,600 miles over 5 days and used that opportunity to test the 3 fuel grades. No difference. Personally, I prefer using premium.....
hi buddy, 1st of all say hello to candy 👠 now that you have the bike for many more miles, how often you check the slack? 3K still? dont party to hard, its friday thx buddy
Hi Julio! Always great seeing your comments brother! Since I'm over 22k miles, I check the slack regularly, at least every 500 miles - not measuring it, just by lifting it up with my fingers, I'm accustomed to how much slack by feel and eye balling it. Thank you for asking such a great question Julio! 🤙
Hi Steve, I'm using the harbor freight stand, it is much cheaper than others available, however as you can see in the video I had to add 2x4 pieces for it to work with the stock exhaust, if you have a shorty exhaust, you won't need to modify it. It's a little awkward to use with the stock exhaust..... Not recommended, but if you want to save a few bucks, this is a decent option. Just my honest feedback.
@@ontherebel11 Thanks. I bought a paddock stand from Harbor Freight yesterday. I reversed the supports and duck taped 3/4 inch hose to the supports to protect the bikes finish. Haven’t tested the rig yet.
@@cruisinwithpapasteve4907 outstanding Steve! Fyi, I'm a smaller guy, to aid in lifting the bike with the modified stand, I found it easier to first roll the rear wheel over a piece of 2x4. If you have someone to help you, you might not need to do that.
@@ontherebel11 Good idea. I’ve been using a Harbor Freight motorcycle stand/wheel chock then lifting the rear wheel with a floor jack. That works very well. I plan to try the paddock stand with the wheel chock holding the bike upright.
Thank you, I am looking at buying the 1100cc very seriously. . Good to have an idea what to expect for road side repairs. There is a company that makes a nice center stand.
Ideally and a best practice is to check the tension prior to every ride with your regular pre ride inspection. Most importantly tire pressures, front and rear brake operation, throttle fluidity, handlebars (mounting bolts may loosen over time due to vibrations), lights including low beam, high beam, indicator lights and brake lights, oil level and chain tension. However a good chain needs little adjustment under normal riding conditions and proper installation. the more powerful the engine is and the more aggressive you are with the throttle, the more the average chain will stretch and thus require more frequent adjustments.
I use the torque values listed in the service manual, here is a link in case you are interested in getting one, i highly recommend that you do. www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=AHC&Model=CM1A&Year=2021&Category=1&class_2=AHC&mk=Honda%20Powersports&yr=2021&md=CMX1100A&dt=Shop%2FService%20Information&module&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=61MLA00&itemtype=N&fbclid=IwAR3EIyeofDq1l81nGHDriMc6clc6QugHcQJjF5MOlEs0vMbDI0ZK9ZkvMF4
quick question: In the manual it states how the chain slack must be measured. With the bike on its sidestand, with a rider on it or up in the air (=with no load, not even the bike). That makes a huge difference because if the chain is too tight, it can and will damage the gearbox out-going shaft and bearing.
@@ontherebel11 Au + le pignon de sortie de boite est éloigné de l'axe d'articulation du bras oscillant , au + la flèche est importante ..... You understand ? ✌
Well, I had a bit of trouble. First time I've adjusted the chain. Problem was torquing. I have a click style torque wrench. There is no hole in it to insert the Allen hex key into the adjusting nut when your torquing the lock nut, so as I tightened, the adjuster went with it and tightened the chain extremely tight! I backed it off as soon as I noticed it but I'm hoping I didn't do any dmg to the chain. I ended up just tightening the lock nut to a tight feel by hand with the 17mm box wrench while keeping the adjuster but stationary with the 5mm hex. Ditto re the axel nut. Super tight and no click, so tightened it by feel too - no torque wrench. I just ordered a mechanical beam torque wrench that I can trust. Sheesh!
@@T4JQ3L Hi Jeff, the first time is always a little nerve racking, no worries, you will not damage the chain by over tightening, it is designed to sustain a huge amount of torque while under load, 87 HP on close to 800 lbs of bike, riders and gear, with lots in reserve! A 5 mm screw will break way before the chain has a scratch on it. in order to use a torque wrench with the lock nut you will need a crow's foot like this www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-professional-crowfoot-wrench-set-10-piece-56382.html?campaignid=12169518939&adsetid=114845728257&product=56382&store=413&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjbagBhD3ARIsANRrqEvBEp7dIBmmwuQtLVQKQp9nsXjtaHCBFHcWNA9r0OHwcxOwSEgC6OIaAoX2EALw_wcB But before using it, please do a little research on how to use one as the torque values differ at different angles. Once you have an understanding how the adjustment mechanism works, it will be a bit comforting, in the video where i take off the rear wheel, i take it apart and demonstrate its action, in case you are curious. Might i also recommend that you watch the chain alignment video as well, it is imperative to make sure the chain is aligned after each adjustment. Well done on getting it done brother!
Posting here as I had a hard time finding it. The axle nut size is 27.
Thank you, this will help others!🙏
just rewatched the video… thanks for providing a great service better than a manual
Thank you for always encouraging and supporting me T, much appreciated brother! 🙏
It's an amazing video. Thanks for doing it.
I had one issue while replicating what you did. In order to remove the 17mm nut, i had to hold the adjuster with the 5mm Allen key, so that the bolt doesn't move the adjuster bolt.
It would be great if you can edit the video and repost it. It might help people.
Thanks again.
Thank you and a great recommendation! Unfortunately, I would have to delete the video and make a new one, I might do that in the future 👍
Thanks for a great vid. Excellent narration, easy step-by-step instruction. Truly, thanks.
Thank you for your kind words Dave! I'm so happy that you found it helpful brother! 🙏
I’m so excited about this coming month. Should be getting my Rebel 1100! Note: getting the Manuel version. I was explain it’s smooth as silk…. Lol.
Fantastic news brother! I'm so excited for you, I'm sure you will absolutely love it! 👌
Jane is supposed to be adjusted on the side stand
thank you love this video you did amazing job on explain what you should be looking for and got right to the point masterfully executed
Hi Mark! Oh man, Thank you for your kind words sir! 🙏
Great video! I did the adjustments while on the side stand. I notice the scale on the adjusters is not the same on both sides, the line marks on the adjusters are lined up uneven, should I be concerned?
Thanks you Tim! Yeah, i don't go by the scales, i always align the rear wheel with the chain alignment tool, more peace of mind tbh.
Your video helped me a lot. thank you
I'm very happy to hear that you found the video helpful Keemjeon, thank you for your kind comment! ❤️
All of your videos are very informative but just want to point out in this one how important it is to HOLD THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW IN PLACE WHILE LOOSENING THE LOCKNUT, otherwise the former will probably turn with the latter, and any chance of precision gone with it. Also I hear the bike should be on its kickstand? that sure makes it more difficult to find the chain's tightest spot.... the not sure anyone's mentioned it in all the comments so far
Hi Greg, thank you for your kind comments! Yes you are correct, the right way is to hold the adjustment screw!!!
Thank you for the video. You mentioned quarter turns on the adjuster but my fear is when i do this, it won't be exact on both sides unless there is some way to measure the exact turn of the adjuster nut. Do you have any advise on how one can measure exactly the amount of adjustment?
hi John, i have the bike on a paddock stand, so the bike is relatively level, i then use gravity since it is a constant to let my ratchet handle settle at the bottom, after which i turn it from the 6 o clock position to the 9 o clock position. I do not have a more accurate measuring method unfortunately. Keep in mind that the engineers that designed the system have accounted for everyday users not to have precise measuring instruments while making these adjustments. The best way to insure that the rear wheel is aligned is to use a chain alignment tool like the one you see me using in this video. th-cam.com/video/kTuBu645448/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I just did a full chain clean l, then chain wax and adjusted it. Edit also if you lose count on how many times you turned the adjustment there are markers on yhe arms .
Hi Richard, that's great man, i'm glad you found it helpful, thank you for your feedback brother!
Right side was extremely easy the left stripped right on out when I went to readjust it. I popped like something broke when I first did it
Oh no Joseph! i'm sorry to hear that brother! I have heard of a similar situation happening to other owners as well....
These videos are very helpful. Thank you very much.
Thank you Eric! I'm glad to hear that brother!
do you just leave the lube on the chain or wipe off the excess ?
I wipe it off from the sides for a cleaner look
Hey there. I was watching your other video on rear tire change. In that video you say the axel nut is 43 ft lbs and this one your saying 74 ft lbs. can you clarify which is the correct torque. Thanks for the videos
Hi Kenneth! The rear is 74 foot lbs and the front is 43 ft lbs, are you sure you were watching the rear wheel removal video and not the front? If you could link that video I'd appreciate it so that I can fix it if there's an error. Thank you for bringing it to my attention brother. 🤙
Hi, do you have a link for the rear stand? I recently ordered one off Amazon, but it's too small. Thanks in advance
Hi David, here are the stands that I'm using th-cam.com/video/A7PEMncG-nk/w-d-xo.html
stupid question...isn t it better to test it when you are sitting on the bike because once you sit it will stretch the chain more giving less play right?
That's a great question actually! You have to take into account that when the suspension is compressed, the chain is under additional strain, so if we set it when the suspension is compressed, it will lead to the chain being too loose when the suspension has rebounded, which may lead to the chain coming off the sprocket. It is best to follow the manufacturer's manual as it may vary between different bikes. Thank you for asking a question that many of us have! 🙏
The manual says the rear wheel should be suspended in the air or bike standing on it?
I suggest that you follow what your manual says, this video is just a reference brother.
excellent video content. keep doing these vids. they really help, and are much appreciated.
Thank you for your kind words of encouragement, it makes it all worth it 🙏
Love your videos! What torque wrench/es do you use?
Thank you Marianne! I have been using the one you see in the video since 2009!
Still works! www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-5-80-ft-lb-click-torque-wrench-63880.html
Thank you so much!
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thank you for your feedback Brian! 🙏
Is it not necessary to pull the chain either up or down, to set zero at that point, then pull it in the opposite direction to measure complete chain slack? You seem to be measuring only one direction of play.
Hi Mark, you'll most likely find 10 different answers to this question.... This is the way i've always done mine, but it's up to you how you would like to do it on your bike. There is a tool out there that takes the guess work out, i haven't personally used it though.
When you're adjusting the tension on the right hand side (off camera) are you turning the Alan key down to the ground or up towards the seat?
Hi Robideals! Yes, both are turned to the right (clockwise) to take away chain slack.
Excellent video as always!
Thank you J! I appreciate it brother! Gotta get her ready, it's almost Friday! 😁
Why are you setting the tension with it up on a paddock stand? As soon as you put it down that tension will increae significantly
Got it, thank you for your feedback.
To be fair, the owners manual is poor - at least the one that came with my girlfriend’s Rebel 11 is. It doesn’t make it clear - in fact it doesn’t even cover chain adjustment, just checking the tension
My right swingarm cap doesn't sit flush anymore after trying to adjust my chain. So you think it's a rear wheel alignment issue? Thanks !
It's hard to tell brother, if it was me, i would loosen the rear axle nut as well as the lock nuts, and ensure that the cap is fully seated. Sometimes pulling rearward on the rear wheel will help, keep in min that the chain's weight and tension is pulling the left side forward. I also recommend getting a chain alignment tool if you haven't got one, just added peace of mind.
@@ontherebel11 thanks as always for the quick reply!👍🏼
I did my first adjustment today and i cant get the right side of the axel the stay centered in the adjustment plate and it goes crooked when i torque the axle 😢
Hi William, I'm sorry to hear that man.... It's hard for me to diagnose what caused it, do you have a chain alignment tool to double check?
Thanks so much for this. What rear stand are you using here?
I'm glad you found it helpful! 🙏
I use a harbor freight swingarm stand, I'll link a detailed video. Keep in mind that you will need to modify it to make it work with the stock exhaust.
th-cam.com/video/A7PEMncG-nk/w-d-xo.html
@@ontherebel11 You're a hero! Hahaha I have that exact stand but didn't realize I'd need to mod it like you did at the beginning. So glad I found your videos. I'll be back often!
Hello there,
Thanks for the video, For now the Harbor Freight stand should do the job, not willing to spend over $300 for others and only for one. What do you have at the front wheel. I want to start preparing the motorcycle for winter storage.
Hi Daniel, that is a smart decision! I haven't gotten a front stand yet, I'm still thinking about it, but if I find a harbor freight one I might get it.
Do you rotate the wheel to find the tightest point, and then make your adjustment from there? That’s how I have to do the primary chain on my Sportster, so I was assuming it would be the same practice for all bikes. I could be wrong though.
Not on the rebel, you check how much slack without needing to turn the wheel. I've only made adjustments on Japanese bikes so far, so I have no experience with Harleys, just learnt something new, thanks for sharing brother! 👍
@@ontherebel11 awesome, that simplifies the job so much. I’m really not sure why you have to rotate the wheel on a Harley and adjust from the tightest spot. I’m guessing because only the primary is chain, but the rear drive is belt…who knows, but I’ll be honest…I don’t. I just go off what I’ve read and watched others do. It’s not hard, but it’s a hassle. You have to remove spark plugs, put the bike in 5th gear, and then rotate the wheel checking the chain 3 or 4 times.
The simplicity of the Rebel is another reason why I love mine.
Thanks for your response and all of your hands on videos!
This is my understanding of any chain adjustment, as the wear will vary over any given length of chain, so it must be adjusted at its tightest spot, otherwise you risk a catastrophic snap. Great video though, keep them coming.
Can this be done with a quick jack like the one used to clean/grease the chain?
Hi Mark, absolutely! I've had to do that for a friend while we were touring! Works like a charm 🤙
@@ontherebel11thank you! I ordered one the other day then watched the video and saw it on a different type and panicked.
Does the bike need to be jacked up or on a stand? Can I adjust the chain while the bike is just on the kick stand? What if someone else holds the bike straight upright without applying downward pressure? Thank you.
Hi Andrew, yes, i've heard of some that do it with the bike on the sidestand but have no personal experience with doing that.
@@ontherebel11 Oh okay thanks. I don’t have a stand yet. My only issue is I don’t know if the Burly Brand stiletto shocks will work with the T-Rex center stand. I would probably have to attach the stand first, then shocks, then chain adjustment but will the shocks raise the bike too much to where the center stand will no longer hold the bike up?
@@andrewnelson1369 that's a good question, I know it raises the seat height by a couple of inches but not sure if it increases the ground clearance to affect the center stand, it might though.... I wish I had a definitive answer brother... I haven't seen anyone with the stilletos and center stand. 👍
@@ontherebel11 Okay thank you so much for the replies
Does the wheel have to be off the ground for chain adjustment. I haven’t found a stand yet that works with the touring model with bags
Hi Justin, technically you could do it, but here's a stand to help you out that will work with the T model, you'll need it to oil your chain. th-cam.com/video/TZFzdgvMMWE/w-d-xo.html
The manual explains how to check the tension while The bike is on the ground, so I will be setting my tension with the bike on the ground.
Does it matter if you check the tension by pushing up or down on the chain?
Yes sir it would, keep in mind that you need to take the small gravity effect pulling down.
@@ontherebel11 Okay thank you. I’ve always used a chain tension tool to check the slack. Once I establish a good zero, I’ve always just pushed down until I couldn’t anymore and looked at what the tool was showing.
Hi there. I am enjoying all your videos. What I would like to ask is "what brand rear paddock stand do you use under the bike as I have heard finding one wide enough is difficult.
Thank you Andrew! I'm using the harbor freight swingarm stand, it works great for a fraction of the cost! you will have to add 2x4 blocks like in the video if you use it with the stock exhaust. here is the link in case you are interested in getting one www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-swingarm-rear-stand-65620.html
I think I did this right. Chain measured within spec. But right afterwards my ABS light came on, stayed on and then started blinking/flashing :( Anyone have any troubleshooting advice? The whole point of trying to DIY it was not to pay a shop to adjust the chain and now I might still have to go into one.
I'm sorry to hear about your issue, how many times have you ridden your bike since the adjustment?
@@ontherebel11 Just one day's worth. The ABS light comes on as solid. Then at about 30mph starts to flash. The manual says that this could be caused by turning the rear wheel while elevated (I did that as I cleaned and lubed the chain) but that the simple solution is turn the ignition to off and then on again and then the light should go off with some driving. Still hasn't happened yet so fingers crossed. If anyone has tips I'm all ears.
@@MarcGarcia-y4m start the bike ride over 30 mph, and then turn it off with the key, let it rest for a couple of minutes and then repeat for 3 times.
The system usually resets after 3 cycles. good luck.
@@ontherebel11 Thank you sir!
Do you have the torque values in NM?
74 foot pounds= 100.33053 nm
15 foot pounds= 20.33727 nm
Thanks
I just brought my 2023 Rebel 1100 home. I don't care to spend $50. Plus $45. shipping and handling for a service manual. I'd like to know the recommended torque setting for oil drain plugs when I do my own oil changes. Thanks in advance for any fellow rebel 1100 owner who can answer my question. Pray for an early spring!
Hi Craig! Congratulations brother! There is a maintenance Playlist that I'll link, you'll find all the torque specs and step by step video for each procedure based on the service manual. 🤙
Rebel 1100 Maintenance Videos: How To.: th-cam.com/play/PLBCveCYUrwZ3j824OHFgfhgDv2At1xSDd.html
@@ontherebel11 I can't thank you enough! One additional question. I've owned a bigger bike that required premium fuel. Do you recommend using premium or would 87 octane containing 10% ethanol work well in my bike? Safe riding!
Anytime brother! 🤙
The rebel will run on any of them, there is no tangible evidence that one is better than the other for the rebel. I just completed 1,600 miles over 5 days and used that opportunity to test the 3 fuel grades. No difference. Personally, I prefer using premium.....
@@ontherebel11 Thanks again, my friend. I can't wait to ride my new bike. Happy to be a Honda motorcycle owner again.
Good video. Where did you buy the rear stand? Link please.
Hi Sergio! I'm sorry about the late response brother! This is the harbor freight stand www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-swingarm-rear-stand-65620.html
@@ontherebel11 Thanks. Keep up the good work!
hi buddy, 1st of all say hello to candy 👠 now that you have the bike for many more miles, how often you check the slack? 3K still? dont party to hard, its friday thx buddy
Hi Julio! Always great seeing your comments brother! Since I'm over 22k miles, I check the slack regularly, at least every 500 miles - not measuring it, just by lifting it up with my fingers, I'm accustomed to how much slack by feel and eye balling it. Thank you for asking such a great question Julio! 🤙
@@ontherebel11 ohhh gotcha bud, thx for the info see ya around
some good tutorials but can you give the metric also when you do them thanks
Thank you Exeterinterception, good to hear from you brother! I will definitely keep that in mind in the next videos thank you for the suggestion!!!
I've been looking for a paddock stand wide enough to fit the Rebel 1100. What are you using and where did you get it?
Hi Steve, I'm using the harbor freight stand, it is much cheaper than others available, however as you can see in the video I had to add 2x4 pieces for it to work with the stock exhaust, if you have a shorty exhaust, you won't need to modify it. It's a little awkward to use with the stock exhaust..... Not recommended, but if you want to save a few bucks, this is a decent option. Just my honest feedback.
@@ontherebel11 Thanks. I bought a paddock stand from Harbor Freight yesterday. I reversed the supports and duck taped 3/4 inch hose to the supports to protect the bikes finish. Haven’t tested the rig yet.
@@cruisinwithpapasteve4907 outstanding Steve! Fyi, I'm a smaller guy, to aid in lifting the bike with the modified stand, I found it easier to first roll the rear wheel over a piece of 2x4. If you have someone to help you, you might not need to do that.
@@ontherebel11 Good idea. I’ve been using a Harbor Freight motorcycle stand/wheel chock then lifting the rear wheel with a floor jack. That works very well. I plan to try the paddock stand with the wheel chock holding the bike upright.
@@cruisinwithpapasteve4907 that's a great idea! I should have thought about that 🤣🤣🤣 thanks for the tip!
What size socket for the rear axel nut?
Hi Jeff, the rear axle nut is 27 mm, and the torque value is 74 foot pounds! 🤙
Thank you, I am looking at buying the 1100cc very seriously. .
Good to have an idea what to expect for road side repairs.
There is a company that makes a nice center stand.
That's a great approach! I'm like you and very much hands on! Yes, I've seen the center stand, they redesigned it recently to make it easier to use.
beautifully explained as usual… next video: rear wheel alignment? ;)
Thank you Brother! That's a good suggestion!!!
Per your request TK th-cam.com/video/kTuBu645448/w-d-xo.html
How often do you check it?
Ideally and a best practice is to check the tension prior to every ride with your regular pre ride inspection. Most importantly tire pressures, front and rear brake operation, throttle fluidity, handlebars (mounting bolts may loosen over time due to vibrations), lights including low beam, high beam, indicator lights and brake lights, oil level and chain tension. However a good chain needs little adjustment under normal riding conditions and proper installation. the more powerful the engine is and the more aggressive you are with the throttle, the more the average chain will stretch and thus require more frequent adjustments.
@@ontherebel11 Thanks
Where do you get those torque Numbers from?
I use the torque values listed in the service manual, here is a link in case you are interested in getting one, i highly recommend that you do.
www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=AHC&Model=CM1A&Year=2021&Category=1&class_2=AHC&mk=Honda%20Powersports&yr=2021&md=CMX1100A&dt=Shop%2FService%20Information&module&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=61MLA00&itemtype=N&fbclid=IwAR3EIyeofDq1l81nGHDriMc6clc6QugHcQJjF5MOlEs0vMbDI0ZK9ZkvMF4
quick question: In the manual it states how the chain slack must be measured. With the bike on its sidestand, with a rider on it or up in the air (=with no load, not even the bike). That makes a huge difference because if the chain is too tight, it can and will damage the gearbox out-going shaft and bearing.
Yes you are correct, the manual states that it should be measured on the side stand, thank you for pointing that out. 👍
Can you list the tools you used in the description please?
Thank you T, the description was updated 👍
I didn’t realize that the rear wheel had to be Suspended to Measure the slack in the chain
Hi George, you can also measure the slack on the Kickstand, but since i was going to adjust it, I put the bike on the stand.
C'est le poids du pilote qui détermine la tension d'une chaine ... la flèche donnée par le constructeur n 'est souvent pas valable ....✌
Merci Titi! 👌
@@ontherebel11 Au + le pignon de sortie de boite est éloigné de l'axe d'articulation du bras oscillant , au + la flèche est importante ..... You understand ? ✌
🤣😂🤣😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂non si tira così la catena della moto.
Thank you for the feedback 👌
Does it matter if the bike is in neutral or 1st when measuring the slack?
Hi Jeff, it's best to have the bike in neutral to eliminate the possibility of any load on the chain that will affect the slack. 👍
Well, I had a bit of trouble. First time I've adjusted the chain. Problem was torquing. I have a click style torque wrench. There is no hole in it to insert the Allen hex key into the adjusting nut when your torquing the lock nut, so as I tightened, the adjuster went with it and tightened the chain extremely tight! I backed it off as soon as I noticed it but I'm hoping I didn't do any dmg to the chain. I ended up just tightening the lock nut to a tight feel by hand with the 17mm box wrench while keeping the adjuster but stationary with the 5mm hex. Ditto re the axel nut. Super tight and no click, so tightened it by feel too - no torque wrench. I just ordered a mechanical beam torque wrench that I can trust. Sheesh!
@@T4JQ3L Hi Jeff, the first time is always a little nerve racking, no worries, you will not damage the chain by over tightening, it is designed to sustain a huge amount of torque while under load, 87 HP on close to 800 lbs of bike, riders and gear, with lots in reserve! A 5 mm screw will break way before the chain has a scratch on it. in order to use a torque wrench with the lock nut you will need a crow's foot like this www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-professional-crowfoot-wrench-set-10-piece-56382.html?campaignid=12169518939&adsetid=114845728257&product=56382&store=413&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjbagBhD3ARIsANRrqEvBEp7dIBmmwuQtLVQKQp9nsXjtaHCBFHcWNA9r0OHwcxOwSEgC6OIaAoX2EALw_wcB
But before using it, please do a little research on how to use one as the torque values differ at different angles. Once you have an understanding how the adjustment mechanism works, it will be a bit comforting, in the video where i take off the rear wheel, i take it apart and demonstrate its action, in case you are curious.
Might i also recommend that you watch the chain alignment video as well, it is imperative to make sure the chain is aligned after each adjustment. Well done on getting it done brother!