I know this is an old video but had to reply to all the know-it-alls here. This guy is absolutely right. I have every repair publication put out by Ford on this truck and this part is not mentioned anywhere, but it's on the truck. Think about it, both codes appear at the same time? I don't think both IMRC'S are gonna fail at the same time. But this valve is common to both sides. No part store in the country is gonna have this part. Dealer or I got mine off eBay. Some of you "experts" need to research before you before you spit out crap you know nothing about.
Very nice video I have same problem with my 98 f150 and I have on mind to pay 100’s of dollars to remove all intake but now I can change that valve myself So awesome thanks!!
This was my issue and you helped me fix it, I did check for the clips with a mirror and they were both intacked I replaced the piece (part #VS132) you mention and it corrected my CEL. Thanks!
Man you saved my day. I had the same codes P1537 & P1538 (about IMRC valves). In this video, you changed the EGR vaccum solenoid (1997 F150 4.2 V6) and I did it. Now my truck is back to normal. T. Y.
i have the same thing but wat dus this do to the truck mine rund good just my gauges mess up that it and im geting the same codes but wat dus it do for the truck could that be y my gauges are messing up and not reading right
excellent, i thought i had to remove plenum and take 5hr + i thought i had to put other parts. this video really helped and saved time. thank you so much!!
Everybody I hope this video been a wonderful help to y’all I am not a mechanic but I try to do what I can and I wish you the best and sorry if the part is not the correct one for y’all but that’s what they told me what it was called when I was looking for that part
I replaced that part and was still getting the code. It can be different things. I was getting just one code tho for the driver side I think it was p1537. The rod kept falling out. The busing was bad. Replaced plastic bushing that holds the rod in place and got no coded for a year. 1 year later with no codes my light came back on and now I am getting both codes p1538 and p1537. I haven't troubleshooted yet but I will update.
Hey George my has been Disconnected for a long time is that why my truck has no power and hesitates to take off it runs but not as strong I feel it weak and hanks for your help 🙏🏽👍🏽
That is the EGR solenoid valve, i dont know where you got the idea that that was the intake manifold control runner valve solenoid? you must have issues with the EGR.
I'm still getting the same codes. I've changed both imrc, the egr vacuum solenoid, the air plenum. My bushings are intact and the bars are connected. I'm stumped. Maybe a vacuum line?
Get a coat hanger and cut one end off and run thru the hard plastic vacuum lines coming off the EGR ( main vacuum ) and check for stopped up vacuum lines
Any update? I've got the same problem I've replace everything you have as well also Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, Replaced fuel rail, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, maf, idle control mod. Idles fine but has sluggish acceleration.
Pull plenum and install new gasket and check all vacuum lines in back For holes and dry rot and your problem will be gone check vacuum lines above back spare tire I did and no codes
@@tasmaniandevil7610 I've replace the plenum gasket along with valve cover gaskets when I replace the fuel rail and injectors. Replaced all hoses and clamps as well. Still have the same issue. I also replaced the little 3 hose silver thing (can't remember the name) along with the gromet thats in the passenger side valve cover.
@@tasmaniandevil7610 everything is replaced with new parts. I'm just not sure why it still runs like it does. I've literally spent HOURS watching videos asking multiple mechanics about the issue. Some say its a ford. Lmfao some say its this or that so I replace the part.
Start at the EGR . With a vacuum tester see if the EGR is holding a vacuum then go to vacuum lines and make sure there are no burnt holes and get a coat hanger and run thru vacuum lines Check all going back to running control valves Good luck
You can try to use seafoam Into the intake hose You have to give it some gas when when you’re pouring the liquid into the intake manifold holes if that did not work you have to change the Cadillac converter
Robert Gammett it actually is the imrc module my trucks the same way , theres 2 different types ,mine is like his my truck only has two small egr looking valves that open the imrc no electrical connection in back of the intake only on the part he changed in the video thats y it has 2 vacuum hose outlets one for each butterfly and there other modules that has the actual electrical connection in the back of the intake its a box that has two rods open the butterflys my truck dont have that it has that small one like in the video
@@georgedominguez4918, I can find online a similar-looking part with the number F65Z-9H465-CA. The fourth character is a "Z," not an "E." Do you know if that part will work as well as a replacement?
I had only one error code, P1538, and this repair did not fix my problem for my 1998 F150. I had a plastic clip on the back side of my intake break off. It is on the back of the motor and I had to take it into the mechanic to get it fixed. He used a remote camera to see it then was able to reach around the top of the motor and replace the clip. It only cost me $50. The part on the video is a little had to find. Below are some part number and prices. Ford Dealer F65Z*9H4658CA $68 NAPA CRB 23076 Canister Purge Solenoid $46 (online) Oreilly EGR3073 $51
Ey bro , tenfo una 98 y me marca los mismos codigos y mi duda es realme te se corrige la falla cambiando esa pieza ya que aqui em mexico la consigo solo en la agencia y es muy cara por eso mi duda . Te agradeceria tu respuesta. Hey bro, I had a 98 and it marks me the same codes and my doubt is that the mistake is corrected by changing that piece because here in Mexico I only get it in the agency and it is very expensive for that, my doubt. I would appreciate your response
Mira amigo tengo El mismo problem la valvula no es esa ese es El canister purse o selenoid vent contol valve la valvula verdadera esta atras del maniflod son 2 sopla por cara una separado por una manguera de suero y veras que no trabaja El vacio de una de Las 2
That happened to my Ford as well but check your fuses or you might have to go up to the junkyard and buy a new one because they give out are you at the change is the meter on it
is going to sound ugly when you change it and turn the car back on is going to sound like metal to metal is grinding but then after awhile it going to sound normal
That isn't the runner control valve but it does control the vacuum to the intake runner control valves. If it goes bad both banks could show stuck open .Let's not be so quick to judge sometimes the one doing the judging doesn't have a clue . The part number he shows is indeed the number for that part his mistake is in calling it the runner control valve.
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I know this is an old video but had to reply to all the know-it-alls here. This guy is absolutely right. I have every repair publication put out by Ford on this truck and this part is not mentioned anywhere, but it's on the truck. Think about it, both codes appear at the same time? I don't think both IMRC'S are gonna fail at the same time. But this valve is common to both sides. No part store in the country is gonna have this part. Dealer or I got mine off eBay. Some of you "experts" need to research before you before you spit out crap you know nothing about.
Very nice video I have same problem with my 98 f150 and I have on mind to pay 100’s of dollars to remove all intake but now I can change that valve myself
So awesome thanks!!
Your very welcome I’m happy to help
I have the same 1998 with tge same problem. Did it fix your codes?
This was my issue and you helped me fix it, I did check for the clips with a mirror and they were both intacked I replaced the piece (part #VS132) you mention and it corrected my CEL. Thanks!
Man you saved my day. I had the same codes P1537 & P1538 (about IMRC valves). In this video, you changed the EGR vaccum solenoid (1997 F150 4.2 V6) and I did it. Now my truck is back to normal. T. Y.
Mega Cyber
Your welcome I’m very happy that this video helped you out
i have the same thing but wat dus this do to the truck mine rund good just my gauges mess up that it and im geting the same codes but wat dus it do for the truck could that be y my gauges are messing up and not reading right
I only have P1538 code, only one valve, will this fix the problem?
Thanks
@@maurocavazos5463 check to see if the bushing is there and the rod is connected. They come loose and will trigger the code
That part is a vacuum solenoid not associated with code 1537 and 1538
Part number F65E95465/CA is a vacuum solenoid
That controls the intake manifold runner controls. They're directly connected to them
Thanks for this. Excellent tutorial
excellent, i thought i had to remove plenum and take 5hr + i thought i had to put other parts. this video really helped and saved time. thank you so much!!
These trucks have 4 catalytic converters. The engine is designed to choke on its own exhaust and back pressure.
Everybody I hope this video been a wonderful help to y’all I am not a mechanic but I try to do what I can and I wish you the best and sorry if the part is not the correct one for y’all but that’s what they told me what it was called when I was looking for that part
I replaced that part and was still getting the code. It can be different things. I was getting just one code tho for the driver side I think it was p1537. The rod kept falling out. The busing was bad. Replaced plastic bushing that holds the rod in place and got no coded for a year.
1 year later with no codes my light came back on and now I am getting both codes p1538 and p1537. I haven't troubleshooted yet but I will update.
Gracias hermano por tu valiosisima ayuda buen video 🙂
Hey George my has been Disconnected for a long time is that why my truck has no power and hesitates to take off it runs but not as strong I feel it weak and hanks for your help 🙏🏽👍🏽
That’s a purge solenoid it is not the runner because the runner is an electric control actuator and it is not control by vacuum
That is the EGR solenoid valve, i dont know where you got the idea that that was the intake manifold control runner valve solenoid? you must have issues with the EGR.
awesome thank you excellent explanation
Thanks very much brother. I got the P1537 code and your vid is a huge help. God bless.
PS: That engine looks great! Nice and clean!
Your welcome God bless an thank you
This work for you?
@@jorgeaguirre7118 sorry for the late response yes it works for me I thought I did it
@@jorgeaguirre7118 I want to the junkyard and got the part
the valve is normally open when the start the truck or when the rmp is over 2000
Thanks
I'm still getting the same codes. I've changed both imrc, the egr vacuum solenoid, the air plenum. My bushings are intact and the bars are connected. I'm stumped. Maybe a vacuum line?
Get a coat hanger and cut one end off and run thru the hard plastic vacuum lines coming off the EGR ( main vacuum ) and check for stopped up vacuum lines
Any update? I've got the same problem I've replace everything you have as well also Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, Replaced fuel rail, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, maf, idle control mod. Idles fine but has sluggish acceleration.
Pull plenum and install new gasket and check all vacuum lines in back
For holes and dry rot and your problem will be gone check vacuum lines above back spare tire I did and no codes
@@tasmaniandevil7610 I've replace the plenum gasket along with valve cover gaskets when I replace the fuel rail and injectors. Replaced all hoses and clamps as well. Still have the same issue. I also replaced the little 3 hose silver thing (can't remember the name) along with the gromet thats in the passenger side valve cover.
@@tasmaniandevil7610 everything is replaced with new parts. I'm just not sure why it still runs like it does. I've literally spent HOURS watching videos asking multiple mechanics about the issue. Some say its a ford. Lmfao some say its this or that so I replace the part.
That part isnt the IMRC its the solenoid vacuum valve.
SOLENOID VACUUM VALVE 1997-2004 FORD E150 E250 F150 #F65Z-9H465-CA
That's the EGR control valve.
Great video man!!
Thank you
Is the same procedure for bank 1 ?
What were the symptons? Was it hard to start? My 1997 F-150 4.2l takes 2 cranks to start and idles hard. I will appreciate any reponses. Thank you.
Start at the EGR . With a vacuum tester see if the EGR is holding a vacuum then go to vacuum lines and make sure there are no burnt holes and get a coat hanger and run thru vacuum lines
Check all going back to running control valves
Good luck
Now I have p0420 do you have any tricks to fix that. I ohms tested my O2 sensor and they are all good?
You can try to use seafoam Into the intake hose You have to give it some gas when when you’re pouring the liquid into the intake manifold holes if that did not work you have to change the Cadillac converter
i have a no start all of the sudden and code p1538,will the van not start with this code?its a 1997 e150 4.2
What were the symptoms?
Do you know a lot about these trucks & the 4.2 V6 engines?
I know little bit about them sorry for the late response let me look into the code
That's the wrong part. This is not a intake manifold runner control valve. Thats a EGR Vacuum Regulator.
I just fixed one. It's the right part.
Carlos Garcia it may be the right part but wrong name
Robert Gammett it actually is the imrc module my trucks the same way , theres 2 different types ,mine is like his my truck only has two small egr looking valves that open the imrc no electrical connection in back of the intake only on the part he changed in the video thats y it has 2 vacuum hose outlets one for each butterfly and there other modules that has the actual electrical connection in the back of the intake its a box that has two rods open the butterflys my truck dont have that it has that small one like in the video
Mine has the code P1518
IMRC malfunction
(Stuck open)
How did you fix it. My e150 ford van has same p1518 code issue. Intake running control valve stuck open bank 1.
What part is that
Thank you for this video but I cant seem to find the item with the part # and the Item description IMCR for a 98 F150 V6 4.2 looks nothing like this.
hey did you use the # for the part I have y'all
Thought I was the only 1
@@georgedominguez4918, I can find online a similar-looking part with the number F65Z-9H465-CA. The fourth character is a "Z," not an "E." Do you know if that part will work as well as a replacement?
It's actually a vacuum valve/solenoid. Part #9L14-9H465-BA
Not the right part i did it didn't work
I had only one error code, P1538, and this repair did not fix my problem for my 1998 F150. I had a plastic clip on the back side of my intake break off. It is on the back of the motor and I had to take it into the mechanic to get it fixed. He used a remote camera to see it then was able to reach around the top of the motor and replace the clip. It only cost me $50.
The part on the video is a little had to find. Below are some part number and prices.
Ford Dealer F65Z*9H4658CA $68
NAPA CRB 23076 Canister Purge Solenoid $46 (online)
Oreilly EGR3073 $51
Also the check engine light will go off for a few miles when you disconnect the battery.
Hello need help with something on my truck
Hey what’s going on with it
what if only bank 2 is stuck open and bank 1 is acting normal, please can someone help my error code is p1538
Bryan Ramos needs the bushings replaces on the back of the intake. The bank 2 bushing broke and the rod fell out.
I have the same code and the bushings and rod are installed correctly. The imrc is new and I still get the code
My f 150 .4.2l,v6. The motor pings ?? Why is this ??
mike bangert mine does too. Does yours burn oil?
Check egr ports
Junk!
I went to the auto store and the part doesn’t exist nor have it on stock
You would Have to go to the dealership or junkyard to get a part
I ordered mine online.
I'm looking for a runner control valve for a 97 f150 4.6 anyone know that item number
I believe he shows and says it in the video.
You can also call a dealership.
Ey bro , tenfo una 98 y me marca los mismos codigos y mi duda es realme te se corrige la falla cambiando esa pieza ya que aqui em mexico la consigo solo en la agencia y es muy cara por eso mi duda .
Te agradeceria tu respuesta.
Hey bro, I had a 98 and it marks me the same codes and my doubt is that the mistake is corrected by changing that piece because here in Mexico I only get it in the agency and it is very expensive for that, my doubt. I would appreciate your response
Mira amigo tengo El mismo problem la valvula no es esa ese es El canister purse o selenoid vent contol valve la valvula verdadera esta atras del maniflod son 2 sopla por cara una separado por una manguera de suero y veras que no trabaja El vacio de una de Las 2
@@leonelperez3020 déjame checarlo y te aviso ,tu lo has resuelto?
I’m Getting Both Codes Saying
Bank 1 Is Stuck Open &
Bank 2 Is Stuck Closed
Will Be My Next Fix
I hope that works for you
Did it work for you
my f150 4.2 has p1538 bank 2 is stuck open < my car shaking and stumble pleeeeease help
Please show me where is the IMRC on a 1998 Ford F 150, 4.2 liter motor
This is not the imrc.
After I replaced mine the speedometer gauge stopped working completely,any recommendations? It's been giving me hell...
That happened to my Ford as well but check your fuses or you might have to go up to the junkyard and buy a new one because they give out are you at the change is the meter on it
Sorry about they problem check if you touched any other wires
is going to sound ugly when you change it and turn the car back on is going to sound like metal to metal is grinding but then after awhile it going to sound normal
George Dominguez cual era la faya amigo tengi un mazda5 2007 y suena normal pero aselerando suna que pega metal con metal ayuda pirfas
Holy fucking shit hold that camera steady
Wrong part
THIS GUY HAS NO CLUE THATS NOT THE RIGHT PART
That isn't the runner control valve but it does control the vacuum to the intake runner control valves. If it goes bad both banks could show stuck open .Let's not be so quick to judge sometimes the one doing the judging doesn't have a clue . The part number he shows is indeed the number for that part his mistake is in calling it the runner control valve.
I solved my codes by replacing vacuum lines and finding a hard plastic vacuum line leading to egr burnt in half . so happy now
Z
Thanks