@@FKCamVlogs I managed to get my pump together like you demonstrated; however, getting the lower unit back in place was another story. Other video show the same motor with a hose connected to a fitting at the shift box. Mine did not have the hose and neither did yours, but the connector is there. I have no idea where to connect it to the motor even if I put one on. Any ideas? Secondly, getting the shift rods to match up is next to impossible. You seem to bypass that step. The inner mate moves around and you can't see in there if they are matching up. How did you get that done?
@@martiwf0 It's a plastic tubing. I left mine attached to the upper housing. Check yours it must be attached to upper housing. If the unit doesnt go in easily, match the spines by slightly spinning the prop, that should it.
You're missing a rubber for the top that sits on the water pump, And a bolt that goes in the back. It's best to always change the bottom seal to keep water out of the lower. just my two cents.
JP, thank you so much. I will follow your advice, there was no rubber seal in the kit I purchased; however with alpha 1 Gen2 kit,I do remember a rubber seal that gets pushed down from shaft on to the pump cover. I will look in the manual. Thanks again !!
JP, I checked for this lower unit, there is no rubber for top, some other outboards do use rubber seal. Here is a link from Crowly's Marine: www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/11209_210.cfm?mdl=3IMITJ
@@FKCamVlogs after my installation it pumped water for about an hour and then stopped. after inspecting the gasket was blown off/ripped outside the housing, do you know what would cause this?
I never took it to OC. Also if your boat is same as mine, be sure to check underdeck foam, it gets soaked with water, penetrating somehow, and makes the boat heavy, meaning more weight. I drilled two 4" holes on each side like 12 to 15" away from transom, removed some of foam and now I am able to pump the water out.. It accumulates when it rains. To test see if your boat sits heavy on one side.
Hello. Thanks for all your great videos. I have a 2004 Proline 22ft Walk Around. I love the boat but I feel like it might be getting waterlogged. When i check the bilge it would be almost dry but as i accelerate and the bow is high in the air, water then goes toward the back to the bilge pump. This leads me to believe that there is a belly in the boat that holds water while boat is just sitting. I am also concerned about the foam core getting waterlogged. Can you please give me some more of your thoughts on this matter? What issues have you run into and how did you correct them?
@@jeremyrocks9025 First if I was you I will snake the drain that runs from cuddy to bilge, sometimes little clog holds the water and when the bow inclines it pushes the water (just my thought, happened to me) The foam under the main floor stays dry in my boat but then under that floor there is another compartment that has foam and that is the bottom of boat. I drilled 4 inch holes on each side by transom and removed some of the foam. Now when water accumulates there I hand bilge it out. This water gets there when it rains, its not the salt water. I am looking into getting a floor diagram from proline but I be honest their customer service sucks. I am thinking getting a snake camera and running it though. As of now hand bilging when needed is the answer.
I looked at by boat to see where rain water might be getting under the deck. Here are some ideas. Bow anchor compartment should be sealed watertight. There is a drain but it is not located in the low point causing water to collect. If it leaks it will find its way under your deck. Check the deck access covers. I have 2 round 8 inch round access covers and the gaskets were gone. Water went down under the deck every time it rained or or when I rinsed the boat. Try butyl tape for a seal. It has a watertight seal but can be removed for access. Also my rod holders in my gunnel didn't have caps allowing rain water. The hatch doors under the rear seats leak when it rains too. Question, Did you drill the 4" holes under the rear seats? My batteries are there. I was thinking of drilling a hole on each side from the bilge area, horizontally but close the hull so any trapped water drain out. I would install 1/2 plug theaded plug just like the one at stern of boat. I can even put ball vaves on each side
Hi, I removed my lower unit following your video, mine is the 200HP, when I removed it 4 washers fell out and im not sure where they go, sorry 5 fell out, one is the size of a 50 cent piece and the other 4 are smaller, would you happen to know where they go or how I can find out? Thanks so much!!
I saw this video which he used rtv, not quite sure if you're suppose to use it. I have a black max xr4 150hp which i planning on work on it this spring and it'll be my first time too. Kinda worry if I should use rtv or not
@@712LifePersonal I am not sure about the video you saw, but in my video description I have a Crowley's Marine diagram that shows the sequence of installation for gaskets and other parts. All gaskets come premade in kit. Hope this helps, if I miss anything please inform.
Are you referring to blue color gasket looking part?? If yes, then its the plastic base plate for the impeller. If you search my channel, I have another video on how to replace that.
Hey have you ever done the poppet valve on your mercury I have the same motor live in Maryland just bought a boat Ends up being the same exact boat that you have going through changing thermostats and everything I want to change the poppet valve but can’t find it and having a hard time figuring it out
Hey wanted to tell you I found it it is behind the wiring harness on the bottom very easy job you just need to separate the cowling 4 Bolts Haven’t ordered test today yet but it only talk about an hour and a half the bolts to the cowling where the longest to get out
Just doing it as preventative maintenance “ I found it under wire harness on rt side remove 3 or 4 bolts wiring harness rolls out of the way and 4 Bolts on the poppet valve all in all should’ve taken about 40 minutes took an hour and a half
It 1:14 you said you put it in the gear . What gear do you put it in ? There is a revere and a forward gear . Why is it that every video I have watched including this one the camera is cut off and restarts after its almost all the way in ? At 10:16 you stop the video not showing it going in and you start the video again at 10:17 and magically its almost all the way in . What went on during the time you cut the video ? Everyone say that putting it back in is the hardest part but no one shows it being done . Would you please make a video of exactly what you had to do to get it back in place and don't stop the video ?
Steve if foward movement in your boat is right rotation then put in forward. Having it in gear helps to align the spines when you insert the lower unit into the upper housing. If drive dont go in, you can move the prop a little to rotate the shaft. Let me know if this makes sense. If not use my email from the about section of my channel and connect. I will be more than happy to explain more.
@@FKCamVlogs Is there anything else that has to line up as its being put back together ? If you made a mark on the bottom of the shaft once its out and you line the shaft back up to the line you made wouldn't it fit right back in ? Why did you stop the video and cut the part out of you putting it back in ? What was going on that you had to stop the filming or edit it out ? It happens on every video on youtube no one so far has left the camera going and showing it fit right back in . They all do the same thing you did . Why is that . That makes me worry about if I can do it or not . Will you make a video that shows the shaft going in with out editing the video ? I would like to just see one person do this . Watch this video at 16:21 He talks about having to manipulate the shift rod . You didn't say anything about this in your video . Why did you leave that part out ? If you notice even in this video the camera cuts the part where it goes in place and it comes back on once its in place . What do you do to manipulate the shift rod . th-cam.com/video/OuilMAOMpgQ/w-d-xo.html
What sort of grease did you use? White lithium, or does it matter? Also, it seems mine had some sort of silicone sealant around the housing where the lower unit meets the upper unit. You didn't show adding any sealant...is this not necessary?
I know this is an old video, but the lower housing looks melted and appears it was in need of replacement, may contribute to the weak stream you have. YMMV
From the looks of your lower unit this motor has sat quite a while in salt water... I purchased a new motor which was basically a 150 geared to 135 (I won’t get into why)... take out your thermostats if you have not already and soak them in CLR I’m sure they are nasty.
You should really put the lower unit in a barrel of water to see if your pump is actually working. You are putting water pressure to the system with a garden hose, which doesn’t prove your pump is working. You should change this. Thank you...Dennis
Thank you Dennis ! You are right barrel is great option but pump does pick water from muffs not as much as in barrel, water comes from all outlets, including the "pee" when thermostats opens up, plus I did a in water test.
If you hook up a garden hose with muffs and get water to come out of the pee hole without starting the engine you've got one HELL of a water system at your house.
Sorry man it wasnt up to your expectations. This was my first outboard swap. I usually worked on I/O, and the shaft seal is a must on I/O, it must be seated properly using a special tool. Another thing you didnt mention is the silicone beads on exhaust plate. I welcome all comments, I dont take none personally, criticism helps to improve. Thank you for your time to view and comment.
Love the accent. I have to do this tomorrow on a 1985 V-6. Mine doesn't look like it has been in the Florida Keys for the past 10 years. Great video.
Thank you !!
@@FKCamVlogs I managed to get my pump together like you demonstrated; however, getting the lower unit back in place was another story. Other video show the same motor with a hose connected to a fitting at the shift box. Mine did not have the hose and neither did yours, but the connector is there. I have no idea where to connect it to the motor even if I put one on. Any ideas? Secondly, getting the shift rods to match up is next to impossible. You seem to bypass that step. The inner mate moves around and you can't see in there if they are matching up. How did you get that done?
@@martiwf0 It's a plastic tubing. I left mine attached to the upper housing. Check yours it must be attached to upper housing. If the unit doesnt go in easily, match the spines by slightly spinning the prop, that should it.
@@FKCamVlogs Yes, you are correct about the hose. To get the lower lever to turn, I guess I need to make sure the prop is in gear.
@@martiwf0 Try spinng the prop and it should turn the shaft.
Good video, good instructions, thank you!!!😊
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad it helped
You're missing a rubber for the top that sits on the water pump, And a bolt that goes in the back. It's best to always change the bottom seal to keep water out of the lower. just my two cents.
JP, thank you so much. I will follow your advice, there was no rubber seal in the kit I purchased; however with alpha 1 Gen2 kit,I do remember a rubber seal that gets pushed down from shaft on to the pump cover. I will look in the manual. Thanks again !!
JP, I checked for this lower unit, there is no rubber for top, some other outboards do use rubber seal. Here is a link from Crowly's Marine:
www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/11209_210.cfm?mdl=3IMITJ
@@FKCamVlogs after my installation it pumped water for about an hour and then stopped. after inspecting the gasket was blown off/ripped outside the housing, do you know what would cause this?
@@wazup3333 I never had that issue, did you installed the impeller right and had the correct sequence of gaskets? what is the make of your unit?
@@FKCamVlogs yes and even if it was put on the wrong way its suppose to snap back the right way, its a 2000 mercury 125 2 stroke
Good vid, great tips about aligning the gaskets with dowels
It a half inch socket, a five eights wrench, and an 11 millimeter
Thanks my friend!
I never took it to OC. Also if your boat is same as mine, be sure to check underdeck foam, it gets soaked with water, penetrating somehow, and makes the boat heavy, meaning more weight. I drilled two 4" holes on each side like 12 to 15" away from transom, removed some of foam and now I am able to pump the water out.. It accumulates when it rains. To test see if your boat sits heavy on one side.
Hello. Thanks for all your great videos. I have a 2004 Proline 22ft Walk Around. I love the boat but I feel like it might be getting waterlogged. When i check the bilge it would be almost dry but as i accelerate and the bow is high in the air, water then goes toward the back to the bilge pump. This leads me to believe that there is a belly in the boat that holds water while boat is just sitting. I am also concerned about the foam core getting waterlogged. Can you please give me some more of your thoughts on this matter? What issues have you run into and how did you correct them?
@@jeremyrocks9025 First if I was you I will snake the drain that runs from cuddy to bilge, sometimes little clog holds the water and when the bow inclines it pushes the water (just my thought, happened to me)
The foam under the main floor stays dry in my boat but then under that floor there is another compartment that has foam and that is the bottom of boat. I drilled 4 inch holes on each side by transom and removed some of the foam. Now when water accumulates there I hand bilge it out. This water gets there when it rains, its not the salt water. I am looking into getting a floor diagram from proline but I be honest their customer service sucks. I am thinking getting a snake camera and running it though. As of now hand bilging when needed is the answer.
I looked at by boat to see where rain water might be getting under the deck. Here are some ideas. Bow anchor compartment should be sealed watertight. There is a drain but it is not located in the low point causing water to collect. If it leaks it will find its way under your deck. Check the deck access covers. I have 2 round 8 inch round access covers and the gaskets were gone. Water went down under the deck every time it rained or or when I rinsed the boat. Try butyl tape for a seal. It has a watertight seal but can be removed for access. Also my rod holders in my gunnel didn't have caps allowing rain water. The hatch doors under the rear seats leak when it rains too. Question, Did you drill the 4" holes under the rear seats? My batteries are there. I was thinking of drilling a hole on each side from the bilge area, horizontally but close the hull so any trapped water drain out. I would install 1/2 plug theaded plug just like the one at stern of boat. I can even put ball vaves on each side
Hi, I removed my lower unit following your video, mine is the 200HP, when I removed it 4 washers fell out and im not sure where they go, sorry 5 fell out, one is the size of a 50 cent piece and the other 4 are smaller, would you happen to know where they go or how I can find out? Thanks so much!!
I'm going to follow your follow your lead. I thought it was going to be a lot heavier. I'm not sure I will wear sandals.
Haha dont wear sandals
Thank you FK, nice video.
Thank you for your visit !
I saw this video which he used rtv, not quite sure if you're suppose to use it. I have a black max xr4 150hp which i planning on work on it this spring and it'll be my first time too. Kinda worry if I should use rtv or not
What is rtv?
@@FKCamVlogs the ultra black silicone Gasket maker
@@712LifePersonal I am not sure about the video you saw, but in my video description I have a Crowley's Marine diagram that shows the sequence of installation for gaskets and other parts. All gaskets come premade in kit. Hope this helps, if I miss anything please inform.
Good job Thanks!
You bet!
Thk you sir.
Welcome Captain!!
Part of a gasket still on at 7:05????
Are you referring to blue color gasket looking part?? If yes, then its the plastic base plate for the impeller. If you search my channel, I have another video on how to replace that.
Good info, thanks
You bet !! Thanks for feed back
Hey have you ever done the poppet valve on your mercury I have the same motor live in Maryland just bought a boat Ends up being the same exact boat that you have going through changing thermostats and everything I want to change the poppet valve but can’t find it and having a hard time figuring it out
This motor is bullet, good luck.I havent done poppet valve. I was hoping to be more helpful
Hey wanted to tell you I found it it is behind the wiring harness on the bottom very easy job you just need to separate the cowling 4 Bolts Haven’t ordered test today yet but it only talk about an hour and a half the bolts to the cowling where the longest to get out
Thanks for sharing ! why it needs to be replaced?
Just doing it as preventative maintenance “ I found it under wire harness on rt side remove 3 or 4 bolts wiring harness rolls out of the way and 4 Bolts on the poppet valve all in all should’ve taken about 40 minutes took an hour and a half
Hey just curious have you ever had your boat out of the inlet in Ocean city and how did it do
Changes my mercury xr6 150 water pump impeller but now no water out of tell tale hole
Make sure the impeller wings are bend in same direction as the old one.
It 1:14 you said you put it in the gear . What gear do you put it in ? There is a revere and a forward gear . Why is it that every video I have watched including this one the camera is cut off and restarts after its almost all the way in ? At 10:16 you stop the video not showing it going in and you start the video again at 10:17 and magically its almost all the way in . What went on during the time you cut the video ? Everyone say that putting it back in is the hardest part but no one shows it being done . Would you please make a video of exactly what you had to do to get it back in place and don't stop the video ?
Steve if foward movement in your boat is right rotation then put in forward. Having it in gear helps to align the spines when you insert the lower unit into the upper housing. If drive dont go in, you can move the prop a little to rotate the shaft. Let me know if this makes sense. If not use my email from the about section of my channel and connect. I will be more than happy to explain more.
@@FKCamVlogs Is there anything else that has to line up as its being put back together ? If you made a mark on the bottom of the shaft once its out and you line the shaft back up to the line you made wouldn't it fit right back in ? Why did you stop the video and cut the part out of you putting it back in ? What was going on that you had to stop the filming or edit it out ? It happens on every video on youtube no one so far has left the camera going and showing it fit right back in . They all do the same thing you did . Why is that . That makes me worry about if I can do it or not . Will you make a video that shows the shaft going in with out editing the video ? I would like to just see one person do this . Watch this video at 16:21 He talks about having to manipulate the shift rod . You didn't say anything about this in your video . Why did you leave that part out ? If you notice even in this video the camera cuts the part where it goes in place and it comes back on once its in place . What do you do to manipulate the shift rod . th-cam.com/video/OuilMAOMpgQ/w-d-xo.html
What sort of grease did you use? White lithium, or does it matter?
Also, it seems mine had some sort of silicone sealant around the housing where the lower unit meets the upper unit. You didn't show adding any sealant...is this not necessary?
I use marine grade grease, no silicone is needed. Your motor is Mercury as well?
No, don't put silicone sealant on that. It's not necessary.
Instablaster.
What year is this engine? Is it carbureted?
2002 Salt water two stroke carbureted
I know this is an old video, but the lower housing looks melted and appears it was in need of replacement, may contribute to the weak stream you have. YMMV
Thank you! It looks melted but it was hamnered bad by someone, to clarify I replaced it in another video!
What part number or spec is this
Matthew the part link is in description. Alpha 1 Gen 2
Show 2stroke 4 horse water pump installed
Follow the concept, if not find manual on line. I don't have a Merc 4 stroke to show and tell
From the looks of your lower unit this motor has sat quite a while in salt water... I purchased a new motor which was basically a 150 geared to 135 (I won’t get into why)... take out your thermostats if you have not already and soak them in CLR I’m sure they are nasty.
O.G.R /\H you are absolutely right, the thermostats were nasty, I cleaned them up. This year after season ends I will be replace them with new ones.
Your water pump base(blue piece) looks melted around the driveshaft. It's replaceable
Yes I replaced it !
My shaftt won't go back in, I rotated by turning the prop, is it possible to turn it too much??
Turn it very slowly the teeth will align
it would be nice if you could actually give the right wrench sizes 1/2 inch is not 1 and a half
Capt. you are right. I will add that in the description. Thanks for pointing it out. !!
That base looks melted around the shaft area and should have been replaced with the installation of the upper kit.
You are right, it does looks melted, in another video I did replaced it. Thanks for feedback !
You should really put the lower unit in a barrel of water to see if your pump is actually working. You are putting water pressure to the system with a garden hose, which doesn’t prove your pump is working. You should change this. Thank you...Dennis
Thank you Dennis ! You are right barrel is great option but pump does pick water from muffs not as much as in barrel, water comes from all outlets, including the "pee" when thermostats opens up, plus I did a in water test.
If you hook up a garden hose with muffs and get water to come out of the pee hole without starting the engine you've got one HELL of a water system at your house.
How long did it take to start peeing?
It should start once thermostat opens up, mine was rated at 175
I have 2stroke 4 horsepower
The bolts are half inch you keep saying one and a half that would be way bigger! Otherwise thanks for the video
John thanks for bringing that up. I am getting better with edits now
My drive shaft won’t go back in
rotate the prop as you push the unit into place.
Horrible video. Left out seal on driveshaft above housing.
Left out screw that keeps gasket from blowing out the back of pump. Fail.
Sorry man it wasnt up to your expectations. This was my first outboard swap. I usually worked on I/O, and the shaft seal is a must on I/O, it must be seated properly using a special tool. Another thing you didnt mention is the silicone beads on exhaust plate. I welcome all comments, I dont take none personally, criticism helps to improve. Thank you for your time to view and comment.
huge thumbs down
Will try to improve. Thx !!
I am giving a HUGE Thumbs Up so it cancels you out!!!!!