BIG 3D Printed RC Speed Boat
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2018
- Here's the video I talked about in the video: • Delivering Candy to Ki...
Creality CR-10 3d printer: goo.gl/bJFYTB
RC boat: goo.gl/yybVW9
RC car: goo.gl/VRsk6W
Drone: goo.gl/wxGx5K
In today's video I 3d printed a radio controlled boat using the Creality CR-10s 3d printer. The boat was printed in 5 body sections and an additional 3 hatch sections. I glued the part together using epoxy that seemed to work fairly well, though you really need to install some reinforcement brackets in order to have a solid construction.
The boat is powered by a massive brushless motor (2650kv), that I salvaged from one of my RC cars. With a 120A electric speed controller and a 4S 6Ah battery (16V), it would have all the power in the world!
RC boat STL file: www.thingiverse.com/thing:262...
Almost immediately after testing the boat for the first time I noticed several major flaws. The 5 body sections is only held together by glue, you would greatly benefit with some cross-going spars that would reinforce the structure. As I explained in the video, even though it was no immediate leakage, the water creeps through the PLA. It has mostly likely something to do with the settings used to print all the sections.
There were also a situation with the propeller surfacing too much and not pushing the boat forward. It was unclear if the boat was too heavy or too light and the glue was less than optimal in water.
To be continued...
Music:
Beautiful Cinematic Music - Beyond
Blue Wednesday - Need You Around
Liam.M - I Dont Need It
MGR 7TH - In A Lifetime - บันเทิง
Dear your drone footage alone was worth the video Thanks!!
I did come here to see that... put it at the end!
Neat, 10:01
Same!
I would love to see a fpv submarine
kanter bow that is agree at idea I've been interested in subs my whole life
I’d like to make a rc submarine that looks like a sub from subway 🤣
genius!
Then first invent a radio system that is capable of transmitting video through the bunch of water, I would like to see this 🙂 Don't forget to patent it! 😎
true!
I absolutely love how this is a video about a failed project. You see all this very awesome projects all the time and it can be very discouraging for some people because their projects don't turn out so well. But the reality is: Projects fail and they fail very often. Success is just a series of failures and it is very important to realise that if you are starting to get into projects like these. Don't give up too soon, eventually you'll make it work.
instaBlaster
Thanks for the video, Simon! Sad to see the boat have issues, but it's a learning experience.
The layering in 3D printing will inherently offer little gaps for air / water to sneak through, unless you have a hull that's more sealant than plastic. Maybe try vacuum forming the water-bearing hull and have the upper hull / decoration, fins, rudder, mounts etc. still be 3D printed, as they worked fine.
As for the propeller, I guess you could dog-leg mount it underneath the hull as opposed to behind it. There would be more drag and the gearing would be difficult to produce, but it wouldn't leave the water at least.
I love your growth mindset and willingness to keep trying!
Nice idea! Can't wait to see V2!
Love it that you also share projects that don't succeed 100% because you learn still a lot from them !
Truly awesome job Simon, so as long as you look at it as not failure but what can be done better as you stated, then it was a success. Maybe you could do a video on which you enjoy doing the most, the projects and the challenges behind them, the filming of the stages and the out come, the fans who enjoy watching your videos or a combination of it all. haha your aerial footage is great with your location shots, you make me want to make a trip to Sweden.
I'd change the design to incorporate the following changes. Through each beam put three holes. Center bottom and below each gunwale. Size the holes for carbon fibre rods. Epoxy the rods in as you build the hull. When complete sand the whole thing and seal it with a compatible clear coat. Boats are water cooled for a reason, get on that. Design the lid to completely seal the hull. Install floatation foam wherever you can. Add trim tabs. Consider swapping the rudder for a metal one. Good luck, neat project, can't wait to see your next iteration.
Sarkazmo Loafy I agree with all your recommendations along with lowering the prop a wee bit to keep from cavitating once the boat gets on plane
Sarkazmo Loafy yup yea ok uhuh for sure no kidding eh
I'm making a small boat and it should be done within a couple days.
And thanks for the the info that water goes through the PLA I will definitely add that stuff you put on yours.
Ur actually my favorite TH-camr, u have awesome videos. The amount of just pure knowledge u have has helped me with some of my rc stuff in the past. Ur also a part of the reason I got into 3d printing. Keep up the super good content!
Your RC videos are much better than anything else on the channel! Please do more of them
you can also use the 3d printed hull as a mold for fiberglass by covering with a thin layer of wax an you can fiberglass right over the plastic an create an thin strong hull.
true
Wouldn't the shape be a bit wonky? Would it be better to print a negative of the hull and insert the fibreglass inside then pop it out to capture all of the detail? I Have printed this boat but haven't glued it together yet. I am not a fan of how they ar strong.e just butt joints with no locking mechanism to align it or keep it
Amazing concept, it will 100% work, back to the drawing board at the moment but there is definitely something here I feel it
Nice
I make 3d printed RC boats, on my 7th version now so its lovely to see other people making 3d printed boats as well.
Be careful that any retraction you have set in your extrusion is not leave tiny holes in your perimeter! It may also help to increase the infill/perimeter overlap to help minimize tiny holes in the corners of your infill/perimeter junctions. You might also try sealing the hull with a clear epoxy called Smooth on. It would definitely help with any drag caused by your layer lines by smoothing everything out. Hope this helps!
You did a lot of hardwork man...seriously kudos to this project...very Interesting video. Keep it Up!
Very nice build.... Minor suggestions for version 2.... Using a two-part epoxy and possibly a clamp when attaching each section together, two bearings on your driveshaft.... And setting the prop lower underwater to keep it from cavitating and sucking air...
Wow such a great location for RC activities
Even though the project failed, it was still a great effort great job! Keep the content coming!
Made a boat last summer but printed it in 1 piece PETG. I used carbon fiber inlays for rigidity, drilled out foam ear plugs with silicone grease for holes in the transom and a water cooled engine. Had to add in a few spots for lead weights to balance things out though. First one sank after the motor softened the plastic hull too much. I digress. Great video Simon! Makes me want to dust off the old model. Too bad it's 45F here.
Without failures, we learn nothing. Great video! Can’t wait to see part 2
Awesome project/video. Great editing work!
Failures gives us important feedback, keep posting your V1 projects! Nice vid
Man, this is great! Even failures give you an opportunity to learn. Amazing work! :)
I really enjoy your videos! You are a great presenter with interesting content. I think you have a bright future ahead of you! Keep up the good work Simon!
Simon no need to apologize that was a awsome vid, love the trial n error and failure is a good thing because you can in your next build
It’s great to make your own rc stuff. Sometimes you have to leave it to the pros. I think this is a killer idea. Keep up the good work.
Your printing skills are OK, but your drone mate is absolutely amazing, and the footage is out of this world.
Just a thought, to add some structural rigidity in the axial direction of the boat, you can add some dowel holes to the model for some metal dowel rods (or all thread) and place them from the front all the way through the boat. It might help.
That drone footage was AMAZING. I could probably watch that all day.
What I appreciate the most about your channel is the display of failure and the comical way you mention it. You show what it's like to go through testing, failure, fix, change, and retry. Thanks.
Sweet project dude. Best of luck on the next build.
Thanks for showing that even a master can have less than perfect results.
Great work! Congrats!
One point to consider on your next try for better propulsion: surface propellers. They are designed to be only half submerged. Look for speed boats.
For the boat rigidity and survivability, you might want to consider the outer surface of the hull to be some sort of honeycomb, it should give it a good amount of extra strength and a lot of air pockets too so it's gonna be almost impossible to sink.
Cheers!
I love your workshop!
Hi Simon, I believe the main issue with the propeller surfacing is its size and pitch. When the boat starts getting in plane, the small and shallow prop can't "grab" the water enough. I would try switching to a 35 or 38mm 2 blade prop with an appropriate pitch and slowly raise the throttle until the boat gets in plane. Once it gets into plane and picks up enough speed you can adjust the throttle accordingly. Hope this helps in any way.
On a side note: Your country is staggeringly beautiful. The drone footage could be used to advertise travel to your country.
great vid. looking fwd to v2
Nice vid man! Cool that you showed that it was a failure
I think this is a great project ,it was very entertaining.putting the mistakes was a good idea to help anyone who might try this.
Awesome project and what an absolutely beautiful location! Perhaps you could glue and bolt together the sections of the boat? The glue to fill the gaps and the bolts to actually hold it together?
I usually spray my prints with Painter's touch clear gloss to seal any leaks in the layers when I need a watertight part. incidentally, it also protects it from UV and slows down sun rot. Not sure if its available in Sweden or not but here in Arizona the sun is a huge problem with temps as high as 125 degrees in direct sun.
As an ex boat racer I have to say water is just a fact of life with boats! One day your 100% watertight and the next you're not. Great work!
I've watched many of your printer reviews - great to see you making a full on project like this - especially a boat as there are MANY issues to contend with. I'd like to cover a few things --- the sound you heard from the prop is referred to as cavitation and is due to what you already found but may not realize - your drive is either too high on the transom or needs more angle - I'd suggest looking at the angle on some of your other watercraft for a better idea of what angle you should have - the solution is probably a bit of both drive depth AND angle - but not too much angle or your craft will "porpoise" under acceleration. Then on the subject of the transom - you don't have enough freeboard for the waters you're in so maybe consider a taller hull - not too much but maybe an inch or so more. Irrespective of waterproof receivers you should still do the baggie/rubberband wrap just to be safe. The type of hull you're using is not conducive to the water in which you are running - so maybe a bit of a deeper V hull will help with stabilization - and that brings me to the stabilizers - they will do the job on a CLEAN water surface but when you have grasses on the water surface these stabilizers will always pick up debris which changes the whole game as far as speed/stability/steering. I always had this problem as my lake is surrounded with pine trees - naturally the pine needles were a nemesis. Many boat kits are made with separate hull/decking as opposed to multiple hull pieces afixed to make one long hull - so consider making a one piece hull if you have a printer that can make a 32" hull or two 16" pieces and have just one joint - then glue stringers on the inside of the hull for support. I could go on forever here but I'll add just one other idea - many of the boats I ran used a water pickup tube that ran a cooling tube around the motor for obvious reasons - you may be able to incorporate a mechanical bilge pump ran off the drive that could ALSO pick up not just cooling water from out of the boat but also act like a constant bilge to drain whatever water seeps in through your cockpit cover - oh, taping down that cover helps with keeping water out as well. Looking forward to your next build!!!!
Three or four printed tabs at the production splices where stainless steel bolts can be used to hold it together will allow the use of a gasket instead of epoxy and will help to reduce weight. Thanks for the video enjoyed seeing the process and the opportunity to learn from your engineering process. Drone footage was BEAUTIFUL!!!!
Probably print this thing in PETG. You could always paint yours a bright color to help, but it will still melt if you leave it in a hot car for an hour in the summer.
As far as the split, probably need at least some kind of peg and dowel type setup between the sections to add more strength between different sections.
Your airial shots are wonderful as always. In awe of those. Thanks for posting the video! Definitely don't always need to be successes.
Hi! Great project! I would use 8mm Linear rods through the parts of the boats to add rigidity, or even threaded rods.
Coat it with clear nail varnish to overcome the water seepage. Also in your design between the sections make it so there are pin and holes for the glue to lock into, sanding to take that sheen away before glue up can help alot with adhesion too. Promising design though. Well done
Awesome project bro
Nice project.
You had a great base for a fiberglass mold with this 3d printed boat. However great video! :D
It is a nice video. I am following your videos and your projects, I think the best choice for this project is the PETG, it is easier to print than abs or asa and it doesn't need enclosure, it has a very good adhesion between the layers and it make waterproof that material. I print some vase with 3 wall and it can be hold water without leaking.
Welcome from Hungary!
I agree - I baffled as to why we see PLA on so many youtube projects that are intended to be rugged and survive outdoors.
You can cover the boat with spar varnish / boat varnish, a few times and no water will get through the PLA. For the boat construction, try to design some "click on bolts" or just use some screws between the parts. This is absolutely important, as the boat will get a lot of heavy vibrations and pushes, for example wave jumps :-) and i would rather stick to a water cooled ESC, because of the PLA. Keep it up!
angle of the propeller was the issue for acceleration. If you put it into the water at a higher angle, it should help the force on the front of the boat as well as keep the prop further in the water. Was awesome though. I have been thinking about modeling up a boat to try something similar myself!
Ur an inspiration, my regards from Argentina!
Amazing creation Bro keep it up
Really nice project and fun to watch 😁 i hope you are more lucky with version 2.0
Interesting, good work man
cool project !
Nice video! Good to see a failed project to show that things don't always go as planned and it's also a good learning experience.
Awesome idea. I've been toying with the idea of doing a 3D printed speedboat myself so it's good to see what you've done even if it did go a bit wrong. I have a recommendation if you want to redo this boat project. Get some EMA Plastic Weld (I don't know what it might be called in Sweden) to use as adhesive between the hull sections then brush some, sparingly, over the surface to seal the layers together. You'd have to go with the 'grain' of the print and it might take a few passes but it should make the PLA water tight. It'd work better on ABS if you can switch over to that material. Regardless of what you do, thanks for trying this idea and uploading your vid.
Man!! Sweden is beautiful!!
Awesome boat
I want to do this, looks like a great challenge!
as always, awesome video! keep them coming!
cool boats, to bad the first one did not work out, but that second one is really cool! great job keep up the great work!
You could probably solve both structural rigidity and make the PLA watertight by laminating the hull with fiberglass. Great videos!! keep it up! 👍
My teacher shows your videos in my maker class at school after some TOUGH searching I fond your channel and I just subbed 😊
Thanks for sharing :-)
Nice first try..
You should try fiberglass resin brushed over the outside of the boat. It will give you a very smooth waterproof surface that should also add strength to the boat.
Cool project! I think ways you can improve this is to mount your receiver antenna vertically on top of the boat because RF doesn't travel very well underwater (pretty much doesn't travel), and adding a bit more weight on the bottom. Petersripol has many great videos on making boats, and one trick he uses is to melt the plastic using ethanol or alcohol then to stick them together. I think this can solve many of the issues.
I learn more from you than I learn all the years in school! lol Great Job!!
cool vid man keep up the good work love your stuff
Love a bit of cavitation in the morning.
You should try covering the next print in fiberglass. It would fix the leaking and rigidity issue
Keep up the amazing videos dude!
even your fail videos are awesome, thank you
dude i can totally relate to this trial and error process, keep it up, love those errors too!, these are the biggest part of every damn project i guess, it is really interesting to see what are the troubles you're facing. greetings from Chile!
so cool project
I was thinking of doing something like this....this was a eye opener...but hell...like Samuel Beckett said: "Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better." Kudos for this video mate!
Love all your videos!!!
Hi! Very nice project
I would rather use screws and silicon sealant between the different frame to assemble the boat section together.
This should insure strength and waterproofness of the boat (at the junction at least)
Looking forward to v2
this is awsome,i really appreciate the insight into your life because i dont have the funds or the means to do it and you just show me thanks man.
dichloromethane, (a common plastic solvent used in model making) will bond PLA together well, this is what I use for my 3d printed jet boat project
Make sure the air intake has a momentum filter to only allow air and not water into the inside. You should have overlapping sections to ensure they stay solidly together. You could probably vacuum form a plastic outer shell to make sure things are water tight. If you raise or enlarge the propeller, you may be able to reduce the lifting of the boat when the engine revs. You could probably also use fins or hydrofoils. Real boats have trouble with too much power making the boat climb out of the water too. I am no expert at this, but I hope the ideas come in handy.
You should try to insert medal Poles throughout the boat to help keep the boat intact. Also when you are gluing pieces together you might wanna try sending each part.
@RCLifeOn I found this video very helpful. As makers we all go through problems. When I struggle trying to make something and I see a fellow maker having difficulty it helps me to remember that I'm not alone. It just comes with the territory, but if we keep pushing forward we can make it! I haven't seen any youtubers try to print a boat so it was interesting to watch you do something different. I agree with @Belen Hedderich, the drone footage was awesome!
It’s still a good lesson everyone will learn that even the pros can have a failed project,from time to time,not everything can always go as it should,Lesson learned!
Really like the way that you persevere and think your RC projects are fascinating. Very surprised you do not work for NASA with the skillset you have very clearly. Liked and subscribed.
Hey just want to say your videos are amazing and very informative you've truly inspired me to go into 3D printing and try my own successful and not so successful project
Thank you and keep doing what your doing 👏
Simon, you are nothing if not entertaining! Always love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Random thought, have you ever thought of doing a collaboration with Tom Stanton? I can see you guys having a lot of fun while creating a really great project.
Great job you'll get it, like you said its a project
I enjoy watching your videos and cool projects. I am pretty new to 3D printing so I am still going through the progression to starting making my own gadgets. Hopefully one day you will attempt this one again and apply what you learned in this one. Maybe a thicker print or some flex seal with some internally printed bracing. Maybe a longer drive shaft? Anyway keep up the good work and thanks for making me think!
What I found most interesting was that the PLA did not bond seamlessly as demonstrated by the fact that you encountered water seepage, which also means that any container created by printing is not air tight.
You should spray the outer hull with a clear polyurethane. also, in addition to glue, bolt the parts together. helluva a job as always!
You are my hero!!!
cavitation! both with the prop and with the PLA lol. good video though! keep it up
Awesome video, it’s even more inspiring than a success video as these struggles are a part of any 3d printing hobbies
Isn’t it?!
And even use locking mechanism for next print
That was a great video your TH-cam skills are fantastic I subscribe to your channel and look forward to catching up on your previous projects