ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2022
- Endless Heat for Your Home Without Electricity. We watched a TH-cam video and got inspired to build our own convection heater that can heat up our 220 square foot cabin while only burning oil candles. The original video ( • Candle Convection Heat... ) is heating up a very small space with only four candles that eventually burn down too low and have to be adjusted or replaced. We are using oil with ten candle wicks which will remain burning at the same height even if the oil container runs low. We used JB weld to join all of the pieces together. This is what your heater should look like. We had someone make us a piece of high heat resistant oven glass which we installed over a high heat resistant gasket. We installed a second gasket on the inside to seal the door. We are using a concrete board as a fire resistant material which we painted black and installed onto the wall. We 3d printed this support for a standard computer fan which will be used as blower for our heater. We used a metal container as an oil storage container. We installed a small window so that we can monitor the level of the oil. We are using ten braided oil lamp wicks. We will install our heater in our 220 sq. foot cabin which is approximately the same size as two standard bedrooms at 10 ft. X 11 ft. A cold from came through and the temperature dropped. We are using steel gutters for our heater. First, we are tracing out four different holes that need to be cut out. We are removing the rubber seal which will be replaced with a heat resistant gasket. We built an oil lamp convection heater that can heat up a two bedroom cabin for less than $5 a week. The heater can reach up to a temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit. The heater can work on different kinds of oils which can be purchased very inexpensively at a wholesale price of $2.50 a gallon. Winter is approaching and running a space heater is an expensive option so we want to replace it with our convection heater. We are using a 50 caliber metal ammo box for this project. The computer fan runs at only twelve volts DC and 1.6 amps. It can also run on a twelve volt DC battery. The fan is very efficient in circulating the air through the heater to quickly heat up the space. It also keeps the heater cooler while operating. The heater also works as a lamp, giving off light in the night. The cool feature this heater has is that it gives the appearance of a natural gas fire place. The thickness and length of the wick and the level of oil in the storage container can affect the intensity of each flame. If the wick is too long, it will produce a lot of smoke and soot and a lot of unburned fuel. That being said, things need to be properly adjusted. Also, different oils will produce different results. If you’ve made it to this point, please subscribe to the channel. I would really appreciate it as it helps support me make new videos just like this one. All the parts for this project were about $100 combined. Most of these parts were purchased from a regular hardware store. The ammo box was purchased on Amazon. We are very impressed with the final outcome of the heater. It performs a lot better than what we imagined. We ran the heater every day, for seven days, twelve hours a day. Each time, the oil level on the storage container drops about 1/2-3/4”. The storage container can hold half a gallon of oil, and it takes approximately a week to go through a whole gallon of oil. The heater is giving off a tremendous amount of heat.
Website: mindoftesla.com - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
While I commend you on this video and idea there's a few things with this build I have to comment on. Let me point out that I’ve been a certified Chimneysweep for a very long time. This method of heating is not a new one and historically dates back a very long way. Styles change but the design is mostly the same. First you must space fireboard and concrete board 1” from the wall for safety reasons, this allows air to flow behind the board and prevent the board from retaining heat at the firebox mounting point and causing a smoldering fire behind it. This is caused by the concrete board coastally transferring the heat to the wood causing it to get hotter over time to the point of combustion. Next issue is that gutters are not made of steel and are aluminum. This means the melting point for the metals is around 1221 degrees F or 660 degrees C. while the output you showed is around 450 degrees F the spots directly over the flames will be much hotter near or at the melting point. You would be better off using copper gutter as copper’s melting point is 1984 degrees F or 1085 degrees C. Also, copper gutter comes in round segments meaning you will get a much better draft. It would be wiser to braze the copper to the steel with bronze rod. I’m unsure if copper gutter could be roll flanged and brazed like steam boilers but this would be a much better option to seal it than JB weld which will break down over time. Your other option would be to use a multitude of 1’pipe flanged into the box in an arrangement that would pick up much more heat. You can find this information by looking up how to make barrel stoves and stream boilers. Then braze the copper gutter around the outside of the box to allow attachment of the input and output piping. Lastly, I would recommend building a means to adjust the wick higher and lower to better control the heat. There are a number of easy ways to do this with some old small gears steel rod and flat wick. I would also as other sugested look into the chimney effect as well as this will cause better movement of air. All in all This is a great build with some minor tweeking you can make it even better.
Doesn't copper give off noxious fumes when heated to too high a temperature??
Could this system be installed in a wood burning stove. Seems like that would solve all the material deficiency issues?
A very informative post
Awesome advice
I commented something very similar to this and I seem to be making many people that keep claiming that I am wrong very angry lol
If I'm not mistaken, most residential gutter drains are made out of aluminum. Not steel. So they can actually melt and burn if the temperature gets hot enough. Not as easy as an aluminum can placed in a fire but it can still oxidize, become brittle, and even melt if the temperature gets high enough where you have it sitting in the flame. Also, instead of an electric fan, a wood stove fan can be modified to move the air and it will not require electricity. Also, the thin sheetrock you painted black will heat up, because it is sheetrock, and because it is black. This heat can transfer through to the wood behind it and can actually cause smoldering and even spontaneous combustion. It should be a reflective surface like sheet metal so it reflects most of the radiant heat. And JB weld should only be used if it is the extreme heat variety but I still wouldn't recommend that. The normal JB weld is only good at 600 degree Farenheit max. But at lower heat such as 200 to 300, it will eventually weaken and crumble. The ultimate goal is having a safe heater that will not cause a fire. And since you are using a fuel source such as cooking oil, etc, that creates a bigger fire hazard without the proper precautions because oil itself burns at about 2700 to 2800 degrees Fahrenheit at the hottest point of the flame. And you have the gutter drain sitting right in the hottest part of the flame judging by what I see at the 15 second mark in the video.
@Cloud Newman still, this is obviously not ridiculously safe. It would be way safer, cheaper, and more efficient to just learn how to run some wire and put an outlet and a space heater there
@@joshdiehl8737 The idea is to be off grid and NOT use electricity.
You can buy steel downspouts still. They are galvanized though which is not good to run hot as they off gas. Putting spacers behind the cement board and covering front with aluminum foil would be cheap and better to reflect heat. High temp furnace cement would be better than JB Weld. and safer.
@@hotpuppy1 then why does he have an electric fan
@@bmxscape actually he never said it was for off-grid. The main reason for the build was its low cost heating which he said was only $5 usd per week. None the less this would certainly be good for off grid as the fan uses very little power and could be supplied by a solar system or as he mentioned a single 12v battery or as others mentioned have the exit pipe rise upward so the heat rises out the top and no fan needed. I think a fan of some kind is still best though for moving more air and circulating it better in the room.
Lots of great comments and suggestions. Mine is to not cut rectangular holes and throw away all that useful metal, but cut Xs and bend the points out to make a solid flange with much more sealing surface area. There are wide/flat jawed pliers and vise grips for sheet metal work that would do a neat job of it. The ducts could also be screwed or riveted to these flanges for a mechanically solid assembly that doesn't rely on or stress the sealant. A solid mount on both sides of the heat exchanger will cause stress as it heats and expands at a different rate and extreme than the sides its attached to.
Great comment bro. It will make the construction closer to rock solid. And ofc better sealing surface. Going to do this in my cabin, and your advice will be followed. Thanks for input
This is one of the coolest videos I've seen for heating
One pointer : the concrete backer board needs to be mounted with a 1 1/2" to 2" space between it and the wall . Otherwise the backer board will heat soak and eventually conduct enough heat to damage the wall.
I made the same mistake with a small wood stove many years ago.
Great design and fabrication 👍👍👍👍😊
Good point. I think he got this message... In decibels:-)
They have building codes for a reason 😂. And one of my chimneys just failed several of them.
Whatd you use for spacers? I had used 3/3" cement board strips behind the cement board to protect the ceiling above the wood stove and the wall to the left of it. These were 2 to 4.5 ft from the stove and the boards still absorb nice amount of heat.
this distance between wall and safety board also lets the air flow and heat up additionally, even if not so much, but still
Simple and creative. Compliments to you guys for thinking outside the box and realizing all these projects, bravo!
Hey guys that is an awesome idea. As someone else mentioned the materials are a bit different then you thought and to make it safer you just have to take down the concrete board and put in some minimum 1" metal spacers that can also be used to hang back up the board ,once its installed to the wall. I would have to say i would have searched for a different box as i love my ammo boxes, well for ammo! lolBut in a SHTF or grid down situation i could build one of these with materials in my garage. As long as you dont let it get too hot ,its just fine! Although if you get the chance i would go with metal stove piping. It comes in all different sizes. That way if your sleeping it cant get too hot. Or someone should always be awake, to keep an eye on it. Safety 1st guys!?! But that is some Mcgyver stuff there! awesome video!!!
No bs (direct+informative) and just straight up ingenuity! Love it. First video I watched of you and that beats almost 95% of the other channels... and I do watch a lot of engineering, philosophy, epistemology, maths and whatnot...
A few minor suggestions to further refine/improve this design:
If you make the indoor pipe a bit longer and have it bend upwards as it leaves the can, similar to the exhaust pipes in the back, the rising hot air in the pipe will draw more air in from the bottom of the pipe, and the fan won't be necessary. Research something called the "Chimney Effect", it's how my blacksmith forge pulls smoke away from the coke so I don't smoke up the whole shop. No fans required.
Also, rather than using aluminum gutters for the indoor pipe, try finding some old copper tubing. It'll handle the heat better long-term, and you can bend it into a spiral inside the can, to gather the heat from the flames more efficiently.
And, actually you could install this whole rig outside the cabin, with just that copper tubing passing into the cabin to spew hot air. This would lose some heating from the can and rain gutters, but would largely eliminate the concerns over Carbon Monoxide leaking into the house and minimize the risk of a fire as well.
Nice. New to the channel. Keeping ideas at play for alternative heating. Taking notes for sure. 😎👍
Not to mention the maintenance of soot removal
The fan is just for blowing warm air into the room through the pipe that goes into the burn chamber but is separated from the burning process.
Carbon monoxide should all be vented out due to the chimney effect and all the burning process is vented straight outside.
This will require some type of fan to get the most benefit , with very little risk u less it broke loose from the wall spilling the fuel oil in the wooden cabin … it would be of utmost importance to have this very securely mounted.
The computer fan will blow CO and other combustion gases straight into the room as it is blowing straight through the combustion chamber. It doesn’t take much to overcome natural draft venting. The combustion chamber fresh air and flue need to be isolated from the air flowing into the room.
Modern furnaces use a fan to push combustion gases out the flue because it doesn’t take much to overcome the natural draft. Something as simple as opening the door or cracking a window can do it. Even a less than optimally sealed building can do it through infiltration.
@@MrSadisticMedic the fan and the air it pushed are separated from the burning chamber unless there is a hole
In the pipe the fan blows through inside the burn chamber it is no different than the the air in the entire room … the chances of this thing back drafting through the intake hole is almost impossible hot air rises it would take a fan or sustained air pressure on the exhaust side to push the carbon monoxide and smoke back through the air intake side. And anyone who has ever used a wood stove or even a fireplace knows it isn’t a issue ..
the only thing I would of done differently is I would of used a lot heavier gauge metal for the hot air line inside the burn chamber that gutter material is very thin and after being heated up for a while could actually burn a hole in it and then you could get some carbon monoxide and smoke in the house ..
I think you people aren’t noticing that it’s a seperate enclosed loop the hot air supply with the fan to the burn chamber and exhaust.
Not trying to denigrate what you did here. I always admire people for being innovative and putting effort into deriving solutions. It’s a very interesting idea that I haven’t seen before and apparently you’ve been able to make it work. Thanks for uploading
Brilliant. The only thing left is to come up wit the design which will fit into a standard chimney and you are golden.
It looks like you solved the problem of the oil burning off-gassing issue nice idea!
WOW, I have a small work shop so I have no room for a wood stove or drip oil heater. THIS is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
I love this idea! I have some comments and see they offer suggestions on how to better get efficiency. Your design is great, I like to think people can take this and run with it. Again great idea and thank you for sharing it.
I love the video. I'm also pleased to see all the positive feedback and suggestions. I haven't seen anyone in the comment section shitting all over the ideas and project this young man is involved in. Cudos all around.
Great job. Very creative and functional. As I always say function first.
Nicely done. Lots of opportunities for optimisation and variation. Main great thing if this is that you’re venting the fumes 😊❤
Very nice build. I agree with using the carbon felt as the wick. Genius.
After reading the comment from tech people giving improvement advice which is invaluable. I want to compliment on all aspects of video making. I hope you continue to take on new things as you have a great voice for narrative work. Editing the video keeping it the steps short and to the point to keep folks interest. Being good at this is where you guys stong points. Take on more projects and you will have a awesome channel. Good luck
Daniel a most excellent proof of concept. I built mine out of steel box tubing, that's what I had on hand. We ran it in our icefishing shack and it did very well. I used 6 flat wicks and the gears like a lamp. I'm using used oil so it is free from the machines from our farm. My fan is 12v so a motor cycle battery and small solor panel was plenty this season but next winter I plan to scavenge DC curent from the heat of the burner so no panel on the roof. Thankyou bud.
Is it legal to burn used oil with a horrible burner?
If you now install a Peltier element, you have also produced the electricity for the fan. I've seen this oven quite a few times lately and you could perfect this concept and then distribute free blueprints to everyone. Thanks for your great contribution keep it up
To daniels dad: thank you for teaching your son, and hopefully all your children, to think for themselves and not to listen to naysayers. Naysayers only want you to give up or fail and true failure is quitting!! Any other failure usually means that you have not thought things through enough (Tesla) or tried enough options (edison). Thank you for teaching truths!! Both of you!!
Thank you for the very positive comment! We will keep up the good work.
@@tomstdenis If this were truly what happens, then humanity would not exist, because regulations have only been around for a minute while we have been working with flames and oil for millennia.
Yeah I agree, your Dad writes gr8 comments.
@ M'agape Thank you for this great comment. 👍 Words to live by.
I really enjoyed watching your video and I'm sharing it on my post and with friends thank you so much and I hope you're keeping warm
Brilliant work! Sending love and warm greetings from Missouri.
NICE to see people enjoy being more efficient.. I have to say that I watched it twice and liked the idea of the oil canister being close to a heat source.. in extreme cold even kerosene becomes thicker ,less viscosity. And, the wicks burn down faster than the rate of oils being pulled up into the wicks to burn. if I hadn't choked on all the smoke I wouldn't be here to tell about it.. but it does/can happen. Will definitely build and get a monitor/alarm.. great reading all the pro tips and stuff. Kuddos to industrious a kiddos. Bravo!
Definitely get carbon mono oxide monitor if you use it, I think it was very thoughtless of him to not warn people for it.
I truly love this stove the way you made it and also the work you did on there and I would love to have seen that video longer and also updates of the stove and maybe more improvements of it also if there's any that you made I hope you do come up with more videos
Great build..... yes these type heaters have been around a long time.....
You need to not use drain pipe....use steel. Also put another barrier between the back of the heater and the wall. Your exhaust pipe should be setup like a propane hot water tank exhaust or even a wood stove exhaust.
The small fan pushing the heat through is a very efficient add on to this system. Very good project!! 👍
Could the drain pipe be used in place of ductwork?
Read it again steel was used READ before you comment keeps you looking less you know what.
Thank you for the video. It's the answer to my greenhouse winter time questions. This is perfect.
This is so well done, great video, I can see myself building this.
This looks pretty nice for a first version!
I would make one modification. Add a sterling engine fan. You see them on stop of stoves for off-grid cabins, they run completely off of heat and require no electricity. So you just need to add one to the inside vent and it will start working as soon as your furnace starts.
A way to refuel it, and start it without taking it apart would be a goal for the next version.
Not really a first version it's a modified (downgraded) version of what someone made for their snowmobile camper. All power to him for tinkering around with it trying to making it heat a space it wasn't made to heat but it will most likely cause a fire without warning.
@@OverlordDenooh The snowmobile guy used candles in his.
The candles didn't work so Good.
The candles were too far away from the through heat vents to begin with and they melted down even further throughout the night, ending up with a temperature of 50 deg Fahrenheit = 10 deg celcius, and that's in something not much bigger than a dog house; he was in a colder climate though.
Although his heater was built First and the idea probably borrowed by these guys, I'd say this heater performs better, BUT! if he borrowed their idea and made a wicked oil system to fit inside his ( a doubled row of wicks as he has two through heat vents ) His could probably out perform this heater/stove.
I don't think this one is a downgrade at all and in some ways an improvement.
@@OverlordDenooh Downgrade? You some kind of a heater engineer?
Brilliant ! A very young talented engineer !,
Thanks for sharing !
Very intelligent design! Looks to be very effective.
Excellent project with fine details ❤. (1) Adding upward angle to the heat exchanger pipe inside the unit -[ ↗]- , will increase the efficiency to move the hot air on it's own without need for 12v fan. Oil Filled Radiator heaters works on same concept to move the hot air by use of hot fins without using any fan. Please check it out. (2) There is an opportunity to increase the efficiency by thin wrapping or insulating cold air intake pipe so it does not play any role to interfere with room air temperature. and same way adding some thorn spike to the exhaust pipe, to extract the out-going heat as it's showing 273F (134C). (3) In current design to refill the oil, it requires to open 8 screws and pull the assembly out, to make it very simple and easy, a small metal pipe can be added with air-tight cap (to avoid CO2 leak), so anyone can add the oil without going thru hassle of opening screws or take-out assembly. (4) To build an oil container, I see you have cut the metal tin and added small glass piece to check the oil level, I believe, this can be easily replaced with a candle jar (glass jar) as a container, it will save time and effort to cut metal tin and add glass window to it.. Thank You for keeping it simple. 👍 I encourage you and looking forward to see next version 2.
I think you can just unlatch the ammo can lid tho....
@@ilike1sand0s68
Yes. Just unlatch the ammo can. That's why they used the smoker gasket on the inside of the lid. I believe.
hello there... I am in the process of making one myself, not for fun but for real need (and I am late cause winter is knocking on my doors)... I found your comments really outstanding... would you help me on the sketching of it?
@@renator8540 if you must a 12v diesel parking heater work great. But I’m goi g to try this idea too. It seems cheaper as to where I use 4 gallon of diesel in 60hrs
I love how all of the comments are positive feedback and tips for this young man. 💜
Literally thinking this as I scrolled lol
Very well done Daniel, I love your inventive spirit keep up the great work!
Looks like a lot of great suggestions in comments. I look forward to your next version of this heater or next invention!
agreed
Very slick, it goes to show when you think outside of the box you can do magical things.
Very well done for anyone at any age. You are a very impressive young man. Keep it up. Clear and to the point. That is what I like. I'll subscribe.
This is really great and although from what I remember being your age, i wasnt a fan when someone told me how young i was when I did anything, i will say you are far ahead your peers. Great job! Have you heard of "sand batterys" , more specifically, sand heat sumps/batteries, that use large metal barrels of sand to store excess heat from a heat source. That heat source could be your heating setup! It will be more efficient and the heat would dissipate more uniformly.
It was an awesome build and it works. Great job.
Great concept. Besides the potential issue with JB weld, consider adding a sheet of metal to the surface of your heat resistant backing board to also help passively radiate the heat and keep the burner cooler if the fan dies. Some passive safety is worth the extra metal.
The temperatures you showed look okay for the jb weld, maybe, but still I'd look at that as more a really great proof of concept. Great job!
This is a great idea. Radiant heat has to be reflected in order to make a difference.
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Holy Cow! That is a BRILLIANT bit of kit. So simple, and the temperature measurements show it's very efficient with the oil burn. As luck would have it, my shed needs exactly one of these so I'll make one.
Wonderful to stumble across you chanel and I wish you all the best for future projects.
Cheers
Pete' New Zealand.
Pro-tip: JB Weld as a long-term solution, especially with high temps, flame and closed spaces is *not* recommended. If you're going to try this, ask your local store for high-heat sealant and for the love of God, find some heavier-duty stock than just standard storm drain pieces.
*MEA TTER: PLEASE MAKE A SHORT VIDEO OF YOUR BUILD WITH YOUR OWN MODS, THANK YOU.*
FANTASTIC job, man! Thank you.
This is brilliant! I love the idea!
You can solve the top being hot by moving the intake and outtake flush with the upper portion, or making both holes larger to the same effect. This increases movement of air over the surface area making the heater more efficient at keeping itself cool and the room warmer.
wow
By the way, your finish product has a beautiful art form and presentation. That's very hard to achieve but you made it look easy. Well done!
this is one of the _Coolest_ home / cabin heaters I've ever seen
Nice project
Very nice. Gives me a project for this fall.
I've seen a lot of hokey home made inventions but this 1 actually impressed me! I truly see the value in it, especially as a potential small greenhouse heater. I also can imagine it being coupled with a thermal mass or heat sink fins to extract even more heat, therefore, reducing your oil consumption.😀
You deserve a medal 🥇 for saving EU from freezing cold. Temps this is a great design.
Uuh….I don’t know where you live, but I live in Sweden and we’re perfectly fine
I'll just get up early and fire it up before I go out in the workshop. Thanks for this video!!
Great job!! Keep it up.
Good job young man. I like this simple design for a good heater.
Really great job, I won't be sad and sorry and tell you what you could or could not do better. They are some bitter people around that pass their criticism as good advice. You have done a fantastic job. Keep up the good work you are very innovative.
This is great. Also I would recommend on the top of the exhaust pipe to pint it up and add a cap to keep rain out. This will also keep any exhaust from backdraft.
Love it! Try graphite instead for a 'forever' which!🕯️🎂 Also the trick to the smoke as pointed out by Robert Murray was addressed in the new rocket stove where they insulated the chimney to keep the output heat around 800-900 degrees which burns up all the carbon before it gets out
Great project! I’m glad I discovered your channel. Keep up the great work guys!
If you want to improve the life, use some heavier gauge round duct and oval it. Round duct for exhaust is sold in two gauges. Go with the heavier. And it's already shaped for a computer fan at 4-6". Speaking of computer parts. Use a heatsink on a piece of plate steel to amp that efficiency up.
good job young man
very cool, and a great way to burn off old
cooking oil for heat. Great work. thanks.
I really like the build. Great project. I understand the safety concerns as mentioned below as you do so I won't bore you with it. I think the design and the thought you put into it is remarkable. Very well done guy's.
This is amazing. Thanks for sharing!
Wow thanks bro. That’s very helpful for off grid
Nice work! Thanks Give thanks
Well done and congrats to you, brilliant post.
The concept is very good a bit stronger pipes maybe needed but a good idea..has good potential. On a larger scale it could be very economical for larger building but I understand your concept for its present use. Well done ! Young man.
Nothing stops you from having more than one of them. There could be one in the kitchen/livingroom and one in the bedroom area.
ill heating my basemant with this heater
My hats off to you young man, great video
WELL DONE M8. Thank you.
If you add a rise to the pipe that lets the hot air into the room, the chimney effect on that pipe would let you run it without the fan.
If you attach a flat plate to the top of the box, you can have a surface that can hold a small kettle to let you make some tea etc.
I would want to be very careful about how the exhaust pipe goes out through the wall. It would be making that bit of wall fairly hot.
A shiny metal surface behind the heater would reflect more heat as infrared into the room.
Exactly use the natural Convection of the hot air to circulate and cut out the need for any kind of fan at all.
@@thee_number_six6227 BTW: It is also an argument for mounting the heater low on the wall. Cooler air is near the bottom of the room. It gives more height for the rising outlet to make a draw like a chimney.
@@kensmith5694 Definitely mate, one thing I have learned using these types of heaters is the placement makes a big difference, fans can be used but at lower rate of speed that pushes warm air out further along the ground and then that rises up and a regular temperature is maintained. I have used this type of heater with and without fans and the convention and air is much hotter without the fan, although the fan option circulates the air more quicker, it is better to control the speed output of the fan. Too fast and it cools the warm air before it's been circulated properly, again the room size makes a big difference. Overall though they work well with and without and smaller rooms do not really need the fan option, in my opinion. But always best to test what works best for your setup!
You didnt pay attention.
Outlet heat at the inner to outter transition os 103° fareinheight
@@hafsalinda What does that have to do with my comment? He only measured the part of the pipe that is exposed to air. He didn't measure what the temperature inside the wall is. Out in the air, the air flowing past the pipe keeps it cooler than the gasses passing through it.
Very well designed piece of equipment. They have built a heat-exchanger system with two separate air systems. An uplift intake, from outside, (to feed combustion), and a down-draft smoke"stack to remove the smoke and "ghost turds" caused from oil burning, vented outside, and an inside air intake, via a fan-forced up-lift system, where a continuous pipe allows the air to travel thru the pipe and back into the room, but passing thru a flame heated surface. There is a temperature exchange made inside the chamber but two separate airs can't mix.
This is a simple, but very impressive heating system. Its inventor needs to be commended. You should patent this furnace and manufacture them. This is a very nice concept and has the chance to change the way we heat, especially in "Off the grid" areas, like "BOB-HOUSES," Where folks take a structure out on a frozen lake and bore a hole in the ice and fish. This would easily heat one of those huts. It would also be an excellent CAMP/TENT HEATER. The applications could be endless. GREAT DESIGN. (I would, however; TIG weld the joints together instead of JB Welding them. JB Weld is good for a lot of things but it is STILL glue. TIG Welding is permanent. (just saying). (another item is the direct area where the flames touch. Over time, this area will break-down. You should think, seriously, about using a piece of thicker steel there (1/8" thick hot-rolled steel), and then pass the solid tubing just touching it, thru, just above it. That way the thicker stuff would take the heat and transfer the pure heat to the thru-pipe duct.
Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
unfortunately, you can not patent something that you have put on youtube To summarize so far, you should wait to file your first patent application as long as possible, but be sure to file before a first public disclosure, public use, or offer for sale. because at that point you CAN no longer get a patent!
can you run the fan off the heat made by the heater converting it into electricity like from those stove fans ?
Great effort!!! Excellent build
Great job Daniel. Keep up the great work with highly practical and very useful ideas which any novice could attempt and get fantastic benefit.
Your work is Priceless to some.
Jb weld will to turn to dust in high heat. I tried it multiple times
Interesting. Both arguments. For the record most hardware stores carry a "adhesive caulk rated for super high Temps. Not sure how it would work on metals but i can at test it works on firebrick
I tend to agree with polok890. I've had very mixed results with JB Weld on different projects. May I suggest using a high-temperature caulking compound or resin for exhausts. Perhaps better, I'd probably go with brazing the joints. There are also various low melt aluminum rods that can be used as well. Alternatively, simply using a cheap high-temperature automotive gasket and the self-tapping sheet metal screws would have worked well. They even have copper-infused gasket maker RTV silicone, which I believe would help with keeping the thermal conductivity throughout the joints. Overall, if this works as well as suggested, I think this is a brilliant idea. I may give it a try and post my results.
@@TheWingnut58 JB Weld also has a high temp formula that works even better than original JB Weld.
@@TheWingnut58 try it on a car exhaust and see what happens.
The rc car engine doesn't get as hot because it's cooled by the fuel and if it's an aircraft like you said... air cooled as well. Sure it's hot I've got an rc airplane too.
JB weld fails at "high heat" above what our little airplane engines get. 😉
@@danielbigger490 m
We rely completely on space heaters during the winter, and they CONSTANTLY break due to overzealous safety features. This design is inspiring, and I'm going to look into building something based on it for our 340 sqft home. Thanks so much!
If you see this comment, I'd love an update on how this setup weathered its first season, and anything new you've learned since posting this vid.
I hope you read some of the other top comments for improvements to this design.
340 square ft is not a home
@@WaitWhatsMyName Ok, well whatever the hell this thing is we've been living in for nine years, I'm gonna try building an oil heater for it.
@@coalcreekdefense8106 i think that square footage is considered a storage box
Why not? It’s the same size as your mother’s vagina and you lived up in there for 9 months.
Smarty!!! Great job!
that would be a great project for a camper like my teardrop
Thats brilliant, simple and a very clever way to produce heat.
Wow, we already discovered fire? It is time for me to crawl out from under my rock where I was hidden a million years ago.
Nice build. I'll hold off on any criticism as it has been covered in previous comments. Stainless steel and GTAW/TIG construction would take this design to the next level.
Thank you
Nice project Have the wicks short enough to eliminate as much orange flame as you can. The blue flame is what you want for efficiency and clean exhaust.
Exactly right. Yellow flame in the pipe covered with soot is a good indicator that a lot of that fuel is being wasted as being sent up the exhaust pipe and coating inside of the exhaust pipe with black spot that eventually could get thick and hot enough to ignite possibly?
@@howtogetoutofbabylon8978 I'm familiar with the sooty exhaust pipes on the older cars. I've never heard of exhaust pipe flaming in car exhausts, but it's a thought. I'm thinking the high flow rate would hinder any flame along with lack of oxygen.
Hey guys i subbed i like the video a lot. I hope you come up with more ideas like this to help people out that dont have the money for traditional heating or if SHTF happens can use to help them selves! Smart young men!
Nice proof of concept. Now I'm gonna see if I can make this better.
Awesome! Much less expensive than the furnace system for our mobile home.
Not bad...I'm building something similar, but it's based-upon the old kerosene catalytic burners. The wicks are round, and use fiberglass ( original stoves from the 1920s - 1950s used asbestos ). A Stirling-engine fan should be able to pull the indoor air through nicely. Oil has the highest BTU potential of any fuel today, and works fine. Keeping the smoke down and the exhaust outside is the real key to their effectiveness.
I like the Stirling fan idea, The nice thing about it is it makes the heater's total efficiency higher.
It could be extra nifty if it could run a Stirling heat pump too. I don't think the idea is practical but the idea is that you get some additional heat from a heat pump.
Carbon wicks are better than fiberglass and can be made on modified easily. Optimizing for convection circulation you can cut out the need for a fan all together. But the Stirling engine uses what the heater is already making. I plan for K.I.S.S. though as more moving parts means more stuff to break.
@@thee_number_six6227 I'll try carbon for the wicks, but the nature of the type of heater I'm talking about is that the wick is only about 1 inch high, so there's not a lot of draw to worry about. It's more about giving a kerosene-air interface for combustion.
@Joshua Kiser AS wick and a flame do the job. With an active flame you have enough heat to provide the energy needed to start the combustion reaction of the next bit of fuel.
Assuming the kerosene heater is 100% effecient, you will need to source kerosene at 3.90 per gallon to to match the cost per btu of an electric space heater with an electricity rate of $.10 per kwh.
If you have a small airport nearby they might sell you Jet'A fuel, (pure kerosene) it's currently around 3.90 a gallon.
Pretty much the exact same cost per btu as electricity. An electric heat pump would be several times cheaper if they work in your climate.
Which oils exactly you use?
Brilliant. Great job and great video!
That's a great idea! You have my imagination going. Filling my tank cost me over $1000. I think wick mechanisms are still available. Installing a damper on the air intake might offer throttle, and could make the fire box hotter. Using tape wick adjusters drilled through the cover would make the flames allot bigger and adjustable. Adding heat sinks fastened to the outside of the duct, adding area like baseboard heat fins, might add more temperature to the duct. Boilers are designed that the hot air flow slows down passing through upper manifold and heats the water more, before the heated air is wasted up the chimney. Sitting a line of rocks across the top of the duct might hold more heat in the box.
I would think a heavy steel pipe would be better horizontally. That would keep carbon dioxide outta cabin. Also a heat plate on the top so you could warm coffee ect
Change the wick to be a carbon fiber pad. Carbon fiber doesn't burn, but will wick the oil up, so it is an everlasting wick.
Did this on my old halve pot belly wood buring stove.. And got it so hot it was bright red at night and burned slow and steady for hours..used less wood too.
I tell people about it with wood stoves and they look at me like I'm talking in toungs or something..they don't get it.. Reducing the air flow causes a hot fire and burning of the wood gas as well. They think the inlet air is doing that alone and they are wrong. Its far more efficient with a valve on the exhaust side. I could regulate both to get a perfect burn with no smoke at all out the exhaust chimney. And it would keep the place toasty all night long.
That's why chimneys have a flue. That's exactly what you are describing
@@leadboots72 I was in the business. Dad ran a heating oil company. PETRO bought and dad dismantled the 20 million gallon oil terminal he managed. I installed the controllers on countless heating and hot water systems. I installed my oil boiler myself. I use under 600 gallons of oil to heat a 1500sqft NY home. My neighbors with similar size homes are burning 1000-1400 gallons annually. I told 2 neighbors, they need a baffling kit or it's cheaper to buy a new boiler. FACT oil companies install the biggest flow nozzle they can put in your boiler, to burn more oil is great for the oil business. I tune my boiler, that I installed, every year since I installed my work horse boiler in 1997. I wired heating and ac systems since 1985. Ask me anything, and I rarely don't have a solution.
Consider a thermocouple on the top smoke exhaust, you may get enough power to run your hot air just from the heat of the exhaust.
Kiddo I am blown away. Great project!! Nice work. A little worried about snow accumulating around the air intake in certain regions. WARNING!
Thank You for sharing!
This video is doing good for society at this point in history.
Great job man.
One idea I have is maybe a slider with a heat resistant handle off the side where you could cover the wicks to regulate the heat output.
I was thinking something like a lantern wick adjuster or a damper of somekind.
Thank you for this inspirational and informational video.
Good job smartie !
This looks good. Only thing I would change is the open oil container. I would prefer to have a closed and sealed tank but that should be easy to fix.
You could use a termoelectric generator to drive the fan, it will be driven by the heat = no battery needed.
StoveSeal could be used instead of Jb Weld.
They make Stirling powered fans that are more efficient than that.
Thats a great concept for a small space heater, scaling up would be simple. including usage rates and temp in and out was also very important . Sure it can be tweaked but the concept is sound.
It I had anything to add id say ,
put a speed controller on the input fan. then create and index the temp in to out ratio. adjust the fan speed to maximize temp out put . lots of fun still to be had.
Great build. Great constructive feedback in the comments. 10/10
Very well thought out and solid construction ideas in use. Good job!
That’s a pretty nifty design and I was just wondering yesterday if JB Weld would hold heat!,
So now I have the answer 👍
Also I don’t have any friends to share this video with 😢
So I will copy the link 😎 and tricked the algorithm into believing that I’ve shared it 🤓
Genius. I will do the same.