ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity 2.0
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ธ.ค. 2022
- This is ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity 2.0. When the heater is used for the first time and gets very hot, it will begin to burn off some of the paint from the top of the heater. The same way a wood burning stove does when used for the very first time. After the paint is burned off, it will no longer emit fumes from the paint itself. If the house is very airtight, one might need to crack a window open, just a little bit to provide oxygen for the heater, or the heater can have a secondary pipe that is bringing oxygen in from outside. The same way we did on the previous heater video: • ENDLESS Heat for Your ... . The oil tank we built can hold half a gallon of oil, and it takes us a week to go through a single gallon of oil. We are only using the heater for 4-6 hours a day, only when we are there using our shop. Now if you need to run the heater nonstop, you will probably go through more oil each week. To put out the fire, simply put your hand over the fresh air intake pipe and hold it until the fire dies off from lack of oxygen. We are using dry cotton baby wipes as a fuse. Once the entire tank of oil is empty, we simply install a new baby wipe and refill the tank again. When the oil tank is completely full and the heater has been working for 30 minutes, the heat released from the heater is enormous. One can feel the heat from a distance or just walking by it. It feels like a blast of heat. We estimate that the heat released it approximately as much as two small space heaters at full blast.
Website: mindoftesla.com - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This is ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity 2.0. When the heater is used for the first time and gets very hot, it will begin to burn off some of the paint from the top of the heater. The same way a wood burning stove does when used for the very first time. After the paint is burned off, it will no longer emit fumes from the paint itself. If the house is very airtight, one might need to crack a window open, just a little bit to provide oxygen for the heater, or the heater can have a secondary pipe that is bringing oxygen in from outside. The same way we did on the previous heater video: th-cam.com/video/0guulsNSQXU/w-d-xo.html. The oil tank we built can hold half a gallon of oil, and it takes us a week to go through a single gallon of oil. We are only using the heater for 4-6 hours a day, only when we are there using our shop. Now if you need to run the heater nonstop, you will probably go through more oil each week. To put out the fire, simply put your hand over the fresh air intake pipe and hold it until the fire dies off from lack of oxygen. We are using dry cotton baby wipes as a fuse. Once the entire tank of oil is empty, we simply install a new baby wipe and refill the tank again. When the oil tank is completely full and the heater has been working for 30 minutes, the heat released from the heater is enormous. One can feel the heat from a distance or just walking by it. It feels like a blast of heat. We estimate that the heat released it approximately as much as two small space heaters at full blast.
Well done, Daniel. I like that you took some of the feedback from the previous build and then some to make this. Going horizontal was a definite design improvement. Spacing from the wall is a big improvement. The metal tube going through the center is also superior to what I'm about to use (stove pipe). And the long flame is fantastic! Well done 👍👍👍
BTW, mine is going to be used in an RV and mounted to a removable metal pane I place in the window. Also, I'm using mason jars to house the fuel (good visibility on fuel supply), 1/2" fiberglass wicks (VERY long lasting and large flames), and generic Crisco vegetable shortening (exceptionally long burn time). I may need to use one candle in one jar to be the first one I light. This will cause the other jars of Crisco to heat up, melting the shortening, and allowing the shortening to move up the wick. Then, they can be lit as well.
Thanks man!
I would consider a lid on the oil tank with narrow slit for the fuse material to ensure no fuse/flame/embers fall into the tank & causes a flash fire.
Would you be willing to sell me a unit I'd pay for shipping as well. Just bought a pelonis unit for 60$ very efficient only for one halfof the home though I would use this on the other. You definitely should consider selling these I'd patent it😂
@@JohnColgan. Best bet is to use some type of wadding such as mineral wool to completely fill the oil tank this way it's near impossible to have a spill.
Pretty cool! A couple of suggestions-- use carbon felt as the wick because it will never need to be replaced and will wick up almost anything. Use the high temp JB weld because this is pushing the temp limits of the standard JB weld and may release nasty vapors when it burns. Before painting it with high temp paint, give it a long hot burn outside so the original paints can off gas.
Yeah you can see the stove offgassing at the end, I bet that was nasty.
Wrong. Pretty warm ☺️
Exactly what I was going to say and you need an insulated pipe on the exterior wall of the building
better yet, weld the pipes up
@@SithLith
I thought of that, but figured I would cover the drain pipe with stovepipe bolted to the top and run up the chimney.
2 things I would like to mention. Don't use JB Weld. Once you reach the breakdown temps of JB it will start to release some toxic compounds into the air. Also, don't cook out of cans foods come in. They have petroleum based or plastic liners in them. You don't really feel or see it, but it is there and has been for a couple decades now. When you cook in the can that does leech into your food.
Otherwise, this is a great simple design for a small home or office area. I may would have put bend in tubbing and ran that through to increase the surface area and increasing the amount of heat that could have been created but this is a neat, clean straight forward design that does take up very little space. Nice work!
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ - What's wrong with you? This is not the type of place for you to proselytize and you're only going to create hard feelings. Plus it makes you sound like a nazi, fyi.
They have high heat JB Weld
@@therealbeedubbs35 Still though if you have the option to bell the ends into flanges then seal and bolt them in place, I would do that. You never really know if there is a possibility of maybe certain chemicals coming out of the compound into a closed space like a room or office. I haven't found any study done on JB weld EXTREMEHEAT as far as air quality or possible contaminants only in its durability.
I would just be afraid of accidentally touching it somehow by tripping. Maybe you could cover it with a fire blanket material so it's safer to be around I think and then make a separate model that is essentially like the old stoves that also were used for heating homes. Something you could at least fit a pot on.
Hush. Just hush. This will be excellent for the gene pool in a few years.
Happy to see so much encouraging words and safety suggestions in the same time ❤️ what a lovely community
Genius Idea!!! I'm going to have my son watch this. We've been discussing whether to put in a small woodstove in my small home, but I LOVE this idea and he's very handy at building things.
I love how everyone is adding their knowledge to a great design, their two cents if you will. This is definitely why two heads are better than one and things get built so much better with logic.
For your next build you should design your bottom intake to draw air from outside. Since your bottom intake draws air from within the cabin, it's also drawing out the warmed air and exhausting it outside. This is similar to the issue with old fireplaces, they draw the warmed air into the fireplace and then exhausts it out the chimney, which is why fireplaces were very inefficient. Modern wood stoves are much better because they don't draw air from within the house. So, if your intake draws from outside air you won't have to worry about the heater drawing any warm air from within the cabin and exhausting it outside. But great concept, I like it!
Better to draw warm air from the room to heat up and circulate again, it will work less hard, this is a good design apart from the air to blow out should be aimed up from the intake so no need to use a fan, Chimney effect.
Would the outside temperatures cool down the burn chamber more than the loss of heat being drawn in from the room? It would be simple to test. I am curious.
wouldnt bringing cold air in from outside create moisture issues or affect the flame? if anything, intake should be longer to pull cooler air from lower level of the room..
my question would be - would there be an improvement in heat distribution if instead of an open hole at the end, it was blocked at the end and had a floor register design that sent the heat out in different directions?
It's actually better to draw the air from the room. It creates a slightly negative pressure inside allowing fresh air to find its way in through windows etc. If the source is outside you are constantly recycling the same air inside and because it's hot the inside creates a positive pressure which means if there are any fumes that leak they are staying inside and building up toxins. The small amount of air passing outside is not going to effect the hearing much in either case but its better to have a slightly negative pressure in the room allowing fresh air to seep in thus having cleaner air. HVAC was a field I worked in for a bit and we always tried to have air going outside in some circumstances to create a slightly negative pressure indoors to allow fresh air to seep in.
Under certain conditions this can result in the system reversing. Drawing air at the flue and exhausting through the intake.
You did a really good job on that guy. I have been building these and watching these videos for 6 years. This is one of the best ive seen
I haven't posted my comment right away after seeing this particular clip but shopped around befo posting this one. Out of all the heater TH-cam content I've seen so far. This one is the best. SUPERB THE BEST NUMERO UNO
Its basically a vented kerosene heater. Love the DIY engineering. 😎👍
Except hes not using kerosene
You should be concerned about how warm it gets inside the heater. With the fuel container inside the enclosure, once the temperature hits around 150°F, the fuel will start to give off combustible vapors inside the enclosure which could lead to a fire. Perhaps if the fuel tank were hanging below the box so that it was exposed to the inside air, that would help keep the fuel cool.
The bottom won’t get that hot at all, the heat exchanger gets rid of the bulk of the heat and the chimney gets rid of the rest. All the heat remains above the flame. Cool air is constantly brought it from the bottom.
@@kerrywsmyth I don’t know. 150F isn’t that hot. Some lamp oils have flash points as low as 120F. I sell kerosene cook stoves for a living and I’ve never seen one where the fuel tank is inside the combustion chamber. One of my customers put a kerosene stove in a space where air flow was blocked on 3 sides. The fuel tank caught fire. If you simply made the box 2 inches shorter (top to bottom), cut a hole in the bottom and let the tank drop by two inches, it would be safer. Extra care should be taken with homemade heaters, as your homeowners insurance would not cover the fire damage from such a heater.
This also the exhaust isn’t code. That needs to be three wall insulated pipe pass through otherwise he’s gonna be burning down that house from that small hole
@@stpaulmercantile good point about the homeowners insurance doesn't cover fire damage from such a heater
@@ChunkiieCustomz I appreciate your information but I also had a stroke trying to read that
I’m sure the electric companies will love this 👍
As hot as that heater gets, it seems perfect for a remote site. Hearing and cooking in such a compact space? Nice! Thank you for making this.
Wrap a small diameter copper (water) tube around a portion of the flue pipe to turn waste heat into hot water. Would require an overhead (insulated) resevoir, pressure relief valve (unless it is an open system), and a faucet at the bottom.
Also, put a pot of water on it to return moisture into your building that is being removed by the heat.
I was thinking something along those lines as well... This would be perfect for a small camp or even an ice fishing hut...
Be careful about mold though
One concern I have is that the air inlet at the bottom should extend upwards into the heater sufficiently to ensure that if any oil were to leak from the oil tray, it couldn't find its way out that inlet pipe onto your floor. If the leaking oil caught flame, you'd burn the place down.
That oil will not burn without a wick unless it's super hot .
Oil could also leak out the door opening. I noticed there is no lip to stop it in case of an oil spill or leak.
The intake should be pulled from the floor. Cold air settles to the bottom of the house.
Use LPG 🤡
He clearly said he used vegetable cooking oil and thats around 600F so there's no worry about a fire for the fuel at all.
One reason the horizontal build is superior to the vertical build in your previous heater is that vegetable oil is thick and tends to fall off when the supply goes down below a certain level on the wick and the heater fizzles out. This is the same thing that happens with vegetable oil lamps that need a short distance between the flame and the bottom of the oil supply.
This model looks like it is easier to fill and safer than your previous version. Enjoy your warm home!
That’s an awesome testimony. Thank you for what you do!
For the next one like this or maybe you could modifly this one, try and find some peltier modules to hook up to the fan. That way the heat from the stove will generate power for the fan and it will run itself perpetually as long as there's fuel in it. Really cool build
Stirling engine fan
point of distaterous failure. if that fan stops=nightmare scenario
@@bmunday just curious, what would happen?
@@andygold yes, good question...
Are there examples of such an application you can share? I'm curious to see this peltier module setup in action.
I like the concept! I actually made something very similar but I installed copper pipes to act as a heat exchanger which in turn creates alot of heat. I used a can of sterno for my heat source. I actually fine tuned the copper heat exchanger so well a candle even worked! Great job on the build...creative!
As I read some of the comments including yours I am amazed! Keep up the creativity!
🎉
@Doug we’d love to see your setup!
Your design sounds impressive do you have plans or a step by step video of your setup I'm very interested
Can you link us to a picture of it?
I'd love to see this same unit made with a few of the main safety concerns people have brought up addressed. This is a great looking, perfect sized and great functioning little unit I think you can bring to another level!
From an HVAC guy, you are a pretty smart kid your heater is really awesome.
Surprised the government hasn't taken off youtube yet. Thats a great idea, thanks. Keep'em comin'
For the next level of off-grid utility, you could add a small Stirling engine to generate the electricity to run the fan. Once the heater warms up, the fan will kick on and the only input is fuel.
You can also just let convection do all the work too. Just run the air intake for the heater to the floor and it will naturally suck in the colder air from lower down as the hot air comes out at the heater.
@@SilvaDreamsgreat idea!
Superb Daniel! Another DIY for the emergency Kit.
Great job.. looks like you are gaining both experience and a lot of support from the community.. Don't disappoint us, be sure you continue to update us with the additional practical ideas & inventions you have ready to show your supporters world wide...🎉
Love this design. Much needed in the UK right now!
I'm making One
sadly......
Great job. I see a lot of good suggestions in the comments for a 2.0 version. You should also modify you heat exchange. Use multiple smaller round pipes and have them loop around the inside of the furnace so they pass the flame twice before venting out. You'll mimic modern day furnaces and gain more heat transfer to up the efficiency. Great design though. Perfect for a small cabin or tiny home.
yes,I might even circle around a water tank. I was thinking animal fat can also a fuel. Lots of tips from other comments! a good read!
I thought this was 2.0, by the title?
This is a good improvement over the last one. I think there are several great suggestions below, so...I can't wait to see version 3...
Congratulations for this sparkling conception!!!
Daniel you now have a very good reason to learn to weld and then you won’t need an my jb weld or concerns about the temps getting too high. You can also find paint for bbq pits that should withstand the high temps. Great build though, I would consider a cover for the oil cause one little flamey bit drops into that container and you could have a potentially disastrous result. Otherwise impressive engineering
I bought a 60$ welder from a pawn shop *and it changed my life*
massively expanded my ability to make things, it was seriously like not knowing about cordless drills then getting one
I'm 40 and have spent my entire life of crafting and woodworking, thinking of welding as something other people do. one of my biggest regrets is i didn't just do it sooner.
seriously for 200$ you can setup and teach yourself to do simple welds and it's been huge.
The rain gutter pipe is very thin and would be difficult to weld. It would also be more difficult to make it perfectly airtight with just welding.
@@incorrba nah I've welded on worse lol, just need to turn the heat down and spend more time on the thicker metal just basically dragging the pool over to the gutter briefly and going back quickly before you burn through.
High heat red silicone work great. I use it on gaskets for pellet stoves.
The oil will not burn if a flame drops into it. It requires a wick at that low of a temperature.
Nice build. Compact and looks good on the wall too.
Just a tip for cutting your steel box. Try drilling holes in each corner first so when you use your angle grinder you will get a cleaner cut to the corners. If the corners need to be square you can use a file to achieve that.
As the hot air is vented out the exhaust flu new air must be introduced to the room which usually means cold air from outside will be sucked in through window and door gaps creating drafts. To help prevent this you could draw your cold air from outside rather than the room by putting another hole in the wall and channelling your air intake through there.
For your wick you could also use pure carbon felt. Not too expensive and will last forever.
Keep up the good work
Combining that idea with a basic heat exchanger would boost the overall efficiency tremendously.
@whitemaninventedeverything9511 Nah, man, it's way more fun in public.
What is carbon wick? Where do I get it?
I agree. Drawing cool outside air means you are not throwing away the warm air that you just heated. This one change dramatically improves the efficiency of the heater. I hadn't heard about carbon felt before, that's also a great tip.
Nice work Dan. You are a true inventor with a smile. Keep on inventing great things for us all to learn from on TH-cam.
Thanks for being with us from day one!
@@DanielsInventions I look forward to see you make the greatest invention to help mankind. Keep up the great work fella too. Peace
Go Daniel Go! Keep on showing us how its done! Good work.
NOT ALL HEROS WEAR CAPES! Thank you my friend !
That is very creative indeed! The whole concept allows anyone to consider a larger metal box and inner workings for usage as well. Thanks, nice, very nice!
Use this concept for an existing wood burning stove. All you have to do is put an oil pan inside with several wick bars. It already has controllable air intake, glass door and exhaust is already going through the roof. While you can get a forced air attachment, it just automatically radiates heat into the environment.
The heat build up inside the stove could bring the oil to a boil and cause a dangerous fire - that goes for the model above as well. The inlet combustion air in the above case is probably keeping the oil cool enough but that may be more luck than planning.
More of THIS young people!! More of this!
For those wishing to duplicate this or other non certified heating source I strongly suggest you contact your insurance provider. Good luck getting coverage then and good luck collecting in the event of a fire. I did enjoy the video and admire the creativity and diy engineering skills. Nice video.
Its an oil lamp?
@@FGQuintowith a high risk of fire, which then will void your homeowners insurance
@@PlutoTheGod i can see that. Good point then. I guess one would have to know the ignition temp of the oils used to feel safe. Olive oil is 400f ish. The OP stated temps of over 500f. So ya. Cool concept but not safe.
@@FGQuinto it’s also the fact there’s a lot of radiant heat, a fan involved, a ventilation hole cut through the wall, non heat qualified paint and materials involved etc. there’s just an incredibly high chance of ignition or melting a ton of shit around the house. Most plastics melt around 230-270 degrees, paint on the walls of your home also around that range, at 300-500 things like curtains and other fabrics can start to combust etc.. it’s definitely not something to be taken lightly
Why would you ask for permission from the insurance company scammers? The answer will always be no. You should just say what you really mean which is don’t do this.
Marvelous idea Daniel!! so very much appreciated going to construct my first unit. Will comment on its performance, wish me luck....
Read through the comments. Useful tips. Such as, don't use non heat resistant adhesives and paints as they will offgas. Use carbon fabric as it won't need to be replaced. Have the air intake draw outside air into the furnace so that you won't be drawing air from your house that you just spent fuel warming. There's many good tips to improve this project.
We are very impressed young man, well done! You inspired me to build my own version! 🙏👍
more like spoiled idiot
Neat job! Consider stuffing the heat pipe with copper dish scrubbies. I think you will find it will hardly impede flow but extract a lot more heat from the system.
The thing you need to make sure of its that you still have enough stack temperature. Extract too much heat and you lose draft. There's a sweet spot we have to find.
This is a cool prototype. I would caution using materials that are not designed for high heat long-term. The paints and adhesive compounds that aren't designed for 400-500 degrees will offgas chemicals over time into the house and affect your health. Starting with uncoated materials and spraying them with high-heat paint would be a safer solution.
Yes it would probably be a good idea to sand blast the ammo box prior to painting with high temo paint.
That coating is high heat jb weld is smart to use if he wanted he could use high heat caulking that would do the same with some pop rivits
@@kcufecaf Straight from the back of that exact Rustoleum can: Do not spray on surfaces that will exceed 200⁰ Fahrenheit.
He said coating not paint.
@Mark Ketchum Paint is indeed a coating. So without further elaboration, we don't know what he meant. Since the only "coating" used in the video was the can of rustoleum paint, I made the assumption that was what he was referring to.
This is so cool. The only thing is adaptations to have the exhaust out the window for an apartment. Thanks for sharing this.
Flaming awesome!!! Well done, seriously good ingenuity...
This is an excellent project. Be encouraged to continue exploring ideas! 😊
Love this! Brilliant years ago and still awesome today! The only thing I would do is wrap metal with fiberglass insolation around the pipe when it is exuasting outside! Other than that I have never tried using rain gutters for exuast? And those fire proof back boards work amazing if you have a small gap! People make amazing inventions and build really useful items and products!
I am thinking of this for my attached garage. I have used electric space heaters in the past. The price of electricity is outrageous and this looks like a good inexpensive solution. Based on this build I already have most of the parts. In my opinion something like this is not for inside ones home/living space but rather a heat source for a garage or workshop or a tiny home or other out buildings.
Lots of good suggestions in the comments.
- Do a burn before painting is a good idea and is recommended for wood stove prior to installing.
- Use high heat JB weld.
- I like the idea of venting out the window (a horizontal sliding window) versus cutting a vent hole in the side of the wall.
- Installing the unit lower and draw the cooler air near the floor versus drawing cold air from outside. No need to cut an cool air intake hole in the wall.
The compact size makes it easy to remove and store in the summer and re-install every winter.
In the video he used a rectangular metal pipe for the heat transfer but I would use a metal chain link fence post section cust to the required length. The metal guage of the fence post would be sufficient to withstand the internal heat. I have some old fence posts lying around somewhere. I just have to find them.
Brilliant and well executed thanks.
Great job. Most of what I was going to suggest has already been suggested in other people's comments. Air intake from out side (this will also reduce the amount of oxygen been taken from the room), peltier for fan and carbon felt for the wick. My other suggestion would be to mount it lower on the wall and extend the chimney. All these will improve it's efficiency. If you wanted to go an extra step, you could duct the fan inlet from the opposite corner of the room at floor level but this will need a couple of extra fans just to help the air circulation.
That's awesome Dan👍
Thank you!! I really like this!
We are liking this video very much.
Brilliant work Daniel! If you add a Thermopile Module or 2 to the outside and cool them with fans you could easily power some LEDs to light the room or possibly even charge a phone or tablet!
good idea as ive seen those little wood heater chargers in camp shops and online..5v led are common
or just use the TEG modules to power the circulation fan.
@@dmatter98 good idea!
or take the power you would use to run those fans..... and use that to run lights or charge a phone...
@@goysb4jays566 it's a thermopile module that generates voltage based on temperature differential, the mini camping fridges and portable coolboxes work from the same kind of device
Great video! Not sure if it’s been pointed out, but stove paint will need cure for the first few builds, releasing a lot of fumes and odor. It’s recommended to cure the stove in a well ventilated area prior to installing indoors.
Also mostly just burning off the original paint will do wonders too because if you don't it'll peel as well as off gas.
Un Grand Merci Daniel !!!!!
That invention needs to go into production. Great job brother 👍👍👏👏👏
Hi, you Guy's are Great.!! I Love ya, channel..
Now" I'd like to see what it would do" with a coil of 3/8's to an 1/2" inch copper pipe, wrapping
Around the exhaust Port and Hooked up to an Water reservoir.!?!? I bet it would be a constant
Supply of ( 🥵!!HOT!! 🥵 ) WATER.!! That's easy to use for "all kinds of stuff".!! From in - floor heating, to production of steam to turn an
Small ( off - Gride ) turbine generator, for
Maybe, Doing "VERY LIGHT DUTY"
OR Maybe Even to "Recharge" Cell phone,s
Or even, a laptop, or battery's for the ( Weather
Report, Radio).!! Lot's of possibilities.!!! Good luck experimenting, & GOD bless.!!
Nice work man. You could end up saving some lives with this idea ❤❤
Really simple too! Awesome
That's awesome. I need to make 1 of these
Hey Daniel, you're missing a metal IR reflector on the concrete wall. Also, your burn is quite inefficient, add some mantle to the flame area. Possibly with additional oxygenated air intake from outside. Lastly, add an IR metal reflector on the ceiling over your creation as air convection heats the ceiling instead of your room.
Not sure I’ll ever get around to building one at this point but love the idea. Great job. You have a new subscriber
Don't. Jb weld doesn't hold up to heat and drain pipe isn't designed to be an exhaust
Awesome....you invented the oil heater.
excellent idea i'm gonna build one for my travel trailer, thanks a lot!.
So, two things to improve your design. First is your wick which is awesome as it's easily available, however it's not reusable for a long period of time. Search for a video with "Forever Wick" in the title by Robert Murray-Smith. He's been using Carbon felt as a wick and because the carbon felt needs to be exposed to around 780 degrees F of temperature to deteriorate it's perfect for a home oil heater.
A second improvement would be for your fan, you can hook it up to a thermoelectric generator and have it powered by the heat itself, it may take two of these to power that fan since I have no idea it's voltage and whatnot. Anyways a thermoelectric generator can produce electricity if one both sides are exposed to opposite extreme temperatures. However, they don't need to be equal in those extreme temps. So one side could be 400 degrees F of temp and the other could be 75F, this would generate a good amount of electricity.
With this, after all is said and done your heater would fully run on just veggie oil and that's it. Have fun!
Also, your intake and exhaust should both be connected outside, not drawing in air from within. You may be exhausting some of your heat lowering heating efficiency.
You can improve it even further.
1)Use caebon wick as wick.
2) Use a set of peltier modules to run the fan.
A Peltier module can convert heat into electic energy.
In this way, you will drastically reduce the costs of the wicks, make it electrically imdependent and the only thing you will have to do will be refilling it. You could also add a priming mechanism and a pipe that would allow you to refill the tank from the outside - without opening the lid.
That's awesome. I'm going to build a cabin and do this.
Thank you so much for compiling these suggestions!
Awesome daniel this is much better visually tham the first smaller one you made
Thanks i understand your project now ..thanks
Not sure about the aluminum down spout, would probably keep a eye on it and could use some chicken wire or the wire mesh with 1/4 inch squares to keep birds and the like from coming in. Also a little deflector to nudge the heat into the room and away from the blind, the thin plastic of the slats may warp with the high heat. Looks like a neat project
Nice, clever, good job.
Great idea, I can't wait to see how you improve this model
Your awesome for trying new things. Keep it up
to me this is a work of art and i would pay 300 pounds for one the same as this.
You should put a temperature control system in it. Temperature relates to how long the wick will burn till the temperature drops again to reignite the wick. Kind of like a furnace. Could save on oil consumption and promote safety measures. Also a carbon felt would be a great long lasting wick. You can get the carbon felt where they sell welding supplies.
Well done sir. Great work.
Awesome job. I like the way you think. I’m making two heaters just like it for my garage work space. One on either side of my work bench. Fingers crossed….
Great idea.
BRAVO on your Creativity & Safety!
Consider thermally mounting inside your Heat-Exchanger , an additional copper or aluminum finned heat-exchanger (from an old computer) to create more surface area inside your heat-exchanger. You will get more heat out that way.
You should also test "Activated Carbon Felt" as a wick-material. Pretty good capillary action for most liquids. You may need a few drops of Alcohol to get it started, depending on the oil used.
And Activated Carbon Felt is heat resistant (very little smoke if any).
Best of Luck - Regards.
@@goysb4jays566 'Thermal Mount' or thermally fastened ... the same way you mount your heat exchanger onto your computer CPU , is the same way you should create more surface area for this heat exchanger.
More surface area to capture the heat , and more surface area to exchange the heat into the room , is a good thing!!!
Mathematics & calculators for materials used are all online - Regards.
I see a lot of potential for a larger version of it to even heat up the water for shower. Great build, bro!
Ah! I see you have a new version! Well done, much better. I like how you added 'without electricity'. Love it or hate it, its cheap and efficient. There is a reason we don't use oil heaters anymore. ;)
I can see a few safety issues with this design. For one, you should be using a double layer exhaust pipe. Two, you need a heat resistant blower. The 12v computer fan will short out after a while. Three, the fresh air inlet on the bottom should have a damper and flame resistant box to catch any sparks or burning material that may fall from the inside, down the fresh air inlet. You have to be really careful with inventions like this. You don't want anyone killed by using your design. Also both a smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector should be present in the room.
@@goysb4jays566 They make chimney pipes for wood burning stoves and for fireplaces that have a pipe inside a pipe. This sucks in cool air around the exhaust pipe to keep it from heating and drying the wall where the exhaust goes out so that it does not spontaneously combust. Your pipe is thick but the wood in the wall will get very dry and eventually could catch fire. These stove pipes are common in hardware stores.
You must be a govt bureaucrat
@@drendebe10 - Why? for trying to keep people safe?
@@drendebe10 you must be the fire departments worst nightmare
Excellent points! Very valid
I use a paraffin heater, it heats up my whole room to a temp of about 75f when the temp outside is in the 40s. It uses about 1 gallon every 5 days, at £6.00 per gallon.
terrible idea inside ur house
I love this heater!
Fantastic concept, I am sure millions of homes would be very interested in a constant supply of cheap endless heat. Just another pointer, would maybe hold the back board off the wall a half inch as it would keep more heat in the house.
Very good idea
I actually used a 1/2in wide hurricane lamp for an extra (supposedly) 900btu of heat last night. 1500W (5100btu) space heater didn't quite keep up during a low 20s night.. used a 200W heater along with it and that sort of worked. But adding the 1/2in wick hurricane lamp to the 1500W heater.. stayed 70F in here.
And was thinking on some kind of oil tank with several oil lamp burners.. extending the rods that adjust the wicks to outside an ammo box.. or maybe just have the knobs facing towards the door.. pop it open, turn wicks up/down, close it up.
great job, daniel! 🎉
Brilliant guys.
Plastic melts at 266 degrees Fahrenheit, so that fan is a bad idea. Also you need to burn off the ammo cans original paint as well. Or it will burn in the heat and cook off the paint you put on over it. The gutter will warp as it's not made to be under heat. The seal will break and you will be exposed to the harmful fumes put off from the not heat treated metals, plastic, and paint
@@goysb4jays566 heat conducts into the rectangular pipe into the plastic fan holder. But that is the least of the worries in this dangerous design!
@@goysb4jays566 do You not think? Up to 500 degrees? That temperature will be radiating around the entire unit. Do you understand conduction? Metal is a Very good heat conductor, if one part is hot all parts will be as well over time. The metal is very close to the fan, so even proximity will deteriorate the plastic. 500 degrees? Yes sir
Good idea and concept. Few safety factors and most have been covered by other comments. One I would recommend is when using outside air for vent and exhaust to use a screen or wire mesh to keep squirrels, birds and mice from building a nest inside pipes that could cause carbon monoxide from air blockage. Also use a second fuel pan if using constantly. Pull the empty one out after letting cool down and just put the other pan in and restart the flame.
Nice color, beautiful job!
Great job. Don’t let the haters sway you. Impressive 👍🇨🇦
Nice Build! We could use the same fire to run the fan blower using a Peltier device, so that their could be no external power source which will make it more efficient.
Great idea! It's awesome that young people are interested in building and creating with their hands. One piece of advice for the voice-over is to try not to start every sentence with "we are." It's gets very repetitive to listen to. Great job on the build!
this is awesome! This would be perfect for a storage unit that doubles as a mancave or something.
I love the steam punk astetic but very art deco in ways I love the styling
I love how everyone is in the comments telling you how you should have made it. It's hilarious.
Same for peeps like you on every diy vid..
All though I agree with you...Im glad people are addressing possible concerns. Im in the process of building one, and I really like the idea of having the fuel separate outside the container. I hadn't thought of that until it was suggested. I'm just not sure how to proceed with that. Also, a secondary layer on the concrete board can't hurt... I may actually go with the 3.0 version, which is free standing. So i see the suggestions as free tips more for me.
Fantastic
That's awesome great invention and easy to make
Cool! Nice design. I would use a flange on the inside and outside of the exhaust stack and switch to either wood pellet stove pipe, 3" to be worry free for the exhaust. Good work.