This is ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity 2.0. When the heater is used for the first time and gets very hot, it will begin to burn off some of the paint from the top of the heater. The same way a wood burning stove does when used for the very first time. After the paint is burned off, it will no longer emit fumes from the paint itself. If the house is very airtight, one might need to crack a window open, just a little bit to provide oxygen for the heater, or the heater can have a secondary pipe that is bringing oxygen in from outside. The same way we did on the previous heater video: th-cam.com/video/0guulsNSQXU/w-d-xo.html. The oil tank we built can hold half a gallon of oil, and it takes us a week to go through a single gallon of oil. We are only using the heater for 4-6 hours a day, only when we are there using our shop. Now if you need to run the heater nonstop, you will probably go through more oil each week. To put out the fire, simply put your hand over the fresh air intake pipe and hold it until the fire dies off from lack of oxygen. We are using dry cotton baby wipes as a fuse. Once the entire tank of oil is empty, we simply install a new baby wipe and refill the tank again. When the oil tank is completely full and the heater has been working for 30 minutes, the heat released from the heater is enormous. One can feel the heat from a distance or just walking by it. It feels like a blast of heat. We estimate that the heat released it approximately as much as two small space heaters at full blast.
Well done, Daniel. I like that you took some of the feedback from the previous build and then some to make this. Going horizontal was a definite design improvement. Spacing from the wall is a big improvement. The metal tube going through the center is also superior to what I'm about to use (stove pipe). And the long flame is fantastic! Well done 👍👍👍 BTW, mine is going to be used in an RV and mounted to a removable metal pane I place in the window. Also, I'm using mason jars to house the fuel (good visibility on fuel supply), 1/2" fiberglass wicks (VERY long lasting and large flames), and generic Crisco vegetable shortening (exceptionally long burn time). I may need to use one candle in one jar to be the first one I light. This will cause the other jars of Crisco to heat up, melting the shortening, and allowing the shortening to move up the wick. Then, they can be lit as well.
Would you be willing to sell me a unit I'd pay for shipping as well. Just bought a pelonis unit for 60$ very efficient only for one halfof the home though I would use this on the other. You definitely should consider selling these I'd patent it😂
@@JohnColgan. Best bet is to use some type of wadding such as mineral wool to completely fill the oil tank this way it's near impossible to have a spill.
Pretty cool! A couple of suggestions-- use carbon felt as the wick because it will never need to be replaced and will wick up almost anything. Use the high temp JB weld because this is pushing the temp limits of the standard JB weld and may release nasty vapors when it burns. Before painting it with high temp paint, give it a long hot burn outside so the original paints can off gas.
2 things I would like to mention. Don't use JB Weld. Once you reach the breakdown temps of JB it will start to release some toxic compounds into the air. Also, don't cook out of cans foods come in. They have petroleum based or plastic liners in them. You don't really feel or see it, but it is there and has been for a couple decades now. When you cook in the can that does leech into your food. Otherwise, this is a great simple design for a small home or office area. I may would have put bend in tubbing and ran that through to increase the surface area and increasing the amount of heat that could have been created but this is a neat, clean straight forward design that does take up very little space. Nice work!
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ - What's wrong with you? This is not the type of place for you to proselytize and you're only going to create hard feelings. Plus it makes you sound like a nazi, fyi.
@@therealbeedubbs35 Still though if you have the option to bell the ends into flanges then seal and bolt them in place, I would do that. You never really know if there is a possibility of maybe certain chemicals coming out of the compound into a closed space like a room or office. I haven't found any study done on JB weld EXTREMEHEAT as far as air quality or possible contaminants only in its durability.
I would just be afraid of accidentally touching it somehow by tripping. Maybe you could cover it with a fire blanket material so it's safer to be around I think and then make a separate model that is essentially like the old stoves that also were used for heating homes. Something you could at least fit a pot on.
safety ? SAFETY ?! using plastic for a heater it's really safe yeah, it's a freaking fire hazard this " invention" or i want to call this " put all the crap you have in one" just buy an electric or petrol heater, more safe , and less chance for it to BURN YOUR HOUSE
I am thinking of this for my attached garage. I have used electric space heaters in the past. The price of electricity is outrageous and this looks like a good inexpensive solution. Based on this build I already have most of the parts. In my opinion something like this is not for inside ones home/living space but rather a heat source for a garage or workshop or a tiny home or other out buildings. Lots of good suggestions in the comments. - Do a burn before painting is a good idea and is recommended for wood stove prior to installing. - Use high heat JB weld. - I like the idea of venting out the window (a horizontal sliding window) versus cutting a vent hole in the side of the wall. - Installing the unit lower and draw the cooler air near the floor versus drawing cold air from outside. No need to cut an cool air intake hole in the wall. The compact size makes it easy to remove and store in the summer and re-install every winter. In the video he used a rectangular metal pipe for the heat transfer but I would use a metal chain link fence post section cust to the required length. The metal guage of the fence post would be sufficient to withstand the internal heat. I have some old fence posts lying around somewhere. I just have to find them.
You should be concerned about how warm it gets inside the heater. With the fuel container inside the enclosure, once the temperature hits around 150°F, the fuel will start to give off combustible vapors inside the enclosure which could lead to a fire. Perhaps if the fuel tank were hanging below the box so that it was exposed to the inside air, that would help keep the fuel cool.
The bottom won’t get that hot at all, the heat exchanger gets rid of the bulk of the heat and the chimney gets rid of the rest. All the heat remains above the flame. Cool air is constantly brought it from the bottom.
@@kerrywsmyth I don’t know. 150F isn’t that hot. Some lamp oils have flash points as low as 120F. I sell kerosene cook stoves for a living and I’ve never seen one where the fuel tank is inside the combustion chamber. One of my customers put a kerosene stove in a space where air flow was blocked on 3 sides. The fuel tank caught fire. If you simply made the box 2 inches shorter (top to bottom), cut a hole in the bottom and let the tank drop by two inches, it would be safer. Extra care should be taken with homemade heaters, as your homeowners insurance would not cover the fire damage from such a heater.
This also the exhaust isn’t code. That needs to be three wall insulated pipe pass through otherwise he’s gonna be burning down that house from that small hole
One concern I have is that the air inlet at the bottom should extend upwards into the heater sufficiently to ensure that if any oil were to leak from the oil tray, it couldn't find its way out that inlet pipe onto your floor. If the leaking oil caught flame, you'd burn the place down.
I like the concept! I actually made something very similar but I installed copper pipes to act as a heat exchanger which in turn creates alot of heat. I used a can of sterno for my heat source. I actually fine tuned the copper heat exchanger so well a candle even worked! Great job on the build...creative!
One reason the horizontal build is superior to the vertical build in your previous heater is that vegetable oil is thick and tends to fall off when the supply goes down below a certain level on the wick and the heater fizzles out. This is the same thing that happens with vegetable oil lamps that need a short distance between the flame and the bottom of the oil supply. This model looks like it is easier to fill and safer than your previous version. Enjoy your warm home!
You can improve it even further. 1)Use caebon wick as wick. 2) Use a set of peltier modules to run the fan. A Peltier module can convert heat into electic energy. In this way, you will drastically reduce the costs of the wicks, make it electrically imdependent and the only thing you will have to do will be refilling it. You could also add a priming mechanism and a pipe that would allow you to refill the tank from the outside - without opening the lid.
I love how everyone is adding their knowledge to a great design, their two cents if you will. This is definitely why two heads are better than one and things get built so much better with logic.
The true Sabbath day is calculated by the Time/Calendar God ordained in the beginning of creation, Genesis 1:14 True Sabbaths are not calculated by the "Famous Gregorian calendar" or any other man made time. "He shall think to change times and laws..." Daniel 7:25 What calendar will be used for worship in Isaiah 66:22,23? God is seeking those who will worship Him in Spirit and in truth. Keeping God's Sabbath by God's Time in Genesis 1:14 is truth.... What if God should allow a Sabbath test to be enforce on nations, by "The Powers To Be", to see if His people will keep His Truth or no??? God's truth is our shield and buckler, Psalms 91❤️
For the next one like this or maybe you could modifly this one, try and find some peltier modules to hook up to the fan. That way the heat from the stove will generate power for the fan and it will run itself perpetually as long as there's fuel in it. Really cool build
Wrap a small diameter copper (water) tube around a portion of the flue pipe to turn waste heat into hot water. Would require an overhead (insulated) resevoir, pressure relief valve (unless it is an open system), and a faucet at the bottom. Also, put a pot of water on it to return moisture into your building that is being removed by the heat.
TIP: i build rocket mass heaters and have been heating 1200sf with 5 face cords of free pine off cuts in northern mi were we get sub 0 temps. Mod your Exhaust rather then straight up and out shape it to go back and forth a few feet at an upward angle. This is called a dragon pipe. It alows more of the Exhaust heat to sap out into the room before it gose outside. Should squeeze a lil more heat out of it My RMH burns at easly 2000 f and the chimney is only 80-100 f so cold i use a plastic pc fan as a assist fan
For your next build you should design your bottom intake to draw air from outside. Since your bottom intake draws air from within the cabin, it's also drawing out the warmed air and exhausting it outside. This is similar to the issue with old fireplaces, they draw the warmed air into the fireplace and then exhausts it out the chimney, which is why fireplaces were very inefficient. Modern wood stoves are much better because they don't draw air from within the house. So, if your intake draws from outside air you won't have to worry about the heater drawing any warm air from within the cabin and exhausting it outside. But great concept, I like it!
Better to draw warm air from the room to heat up and circulate again, it will work less hard, this is a good design apart from the air to blow out should be aimed up from the intake so no need to use a fan, Chimney effect.
Would the outside temperatures cool down the burn chamber more than the loss of heat being drawn in from the room? It would be simple to test. I am curious.
wouldnt bringing cold air in from outside create moisture issues or affect the flame? if anything, intake should be longer to pull cooler air from lower level of the room.. my question would be - would there be an improvement in heat distribution if instead of an open hole at the end, it was blocked at the end and had a floor register design that sent the heat out in different directions?
It's actually better to draw the air from the room. It creates a slightly negative pressure inside allowing fresh air to find its way in through windows etc. If the source is outside you are constantly recycling the same air inside and because it's hot the inside creates a positive pressure which means if there are any fumes that leak they are staying inside and building up toxins. The small amount of air passing outside is not going to effect the hearing much in either case but its better to have a slightly negative pressure in the room allowing fresh air to seep in thus having cleaner air. HVAC was a field I worked in for a bit and we always tried to have air going outside in some circumstances to create a slightly negative pressure indoors to allow fresh air to seep in.
Genius Idea!!! I'm going to have my son watch this. We've been discussing whether to put in a small woodstove in my small home, but I LOVE this idea and he's very handy at building things.
Great job. I see a lot of good suggestions in the comments for a 2.0 version. You should also modify you heat exchange. Use multiple smaller round pipes and have them loop around the inside of the furnace so they pass the flame twice before venting out. You'll mimic modern day furnaces and gain more heat transfer to up the efficiency. Great design though. Perfect for a small cabin or tiny home.
This is an incredible invention and video presentation. I also love all of the positive contributions being offered in the comments. This sort of community collaboration is a great example of how extraordinary improvements can occur for humans.
For the next level of off-grid utility, you could add a small Stirling engine to generate the electricity to run the fan. Once the heater warms up, the fan will kick on and the only input is fuel.
You can also just let convection do all the work too. Just run the air intake for the heater to the floor and it will naturally suck in the colder air from lower down as the hot air comes out at the heater.
Nice build. Compact and looks good on the wall too. Just a tip for cutting your steel box. Try drilling holes in each corner first so when you use your angle grinder you will get a cleaner cut to the corners. If the corners need to be square you can use a file to achieve that. As the hot air is vented out the exhaust flu new air must be introduced to the room which usually means cold air from outside will be sucked in through window and door gaps creating drafts. To help prevent this you could draw your cold air from outside rather than the room by putting another hole in the wall and channelling your air intake through there. For your wick you could also use pure carbon felt. Not too expensive and will last forever. Keep up the good work
I agree. Drawing cool outside air means you are not throwing away the warm air that you just heated. This one change dramatically improves the efficiency of the heater. I hadn't heard about carbon felt before, that's also a great tip.
Daniel you now have a very good reason to learn to weld and then you won’t need an my jb weld or concerns about the temps getting too high. You can also find paint for bbq pits that should withstand the high temps. Great build though, I would consider a cover for the oil cause one little flamey bit drops into that container and you could have a potentially disastrous result. Otherwise impressive engineering
I bought a 60$ welder from a pawn shop *and it changed my life* massively expanded my ability to make things, it was seriously like not knowing about cordless drills then getting one I'm 40 and have spent my entire life of crafting and woodworking, thinking of welding as something other people do. one of my biggest regrets is i didn't just do it sooner. seriously for 200$ you can setup and teach yourself to do simple welds and it's been huge.
@@incorrba nah I've welded on worse lol, just need to turn the heat down and spend more time on the thicker metal just basically dragging the pool over to the gutter briefly and going back quickly before you burn through.
Use this concept for an existing wood burning stove. All you have to do is put an oil pan inside with several wick bars. It already has controllable air intake, glass door and exhaust is already going through the roof. While you can get a forced air attachment, it just automatically radiates heat into the environment.
The heat build up inside the stove could bring the oil to a boil and cause a dangerous fire - that goes for the model above as well. The inlet combustion air in the above case is probably keeping the oil cool enough but that may be more luck than planning.
You could add a container of granite rocks and/or sand to the top of the unit to absorb and slowly release heat over many hours For example, put a 5 gallon metal bucket on top, with the exhaust tube extending through the middle of the bucket. Then fill the bucket with sand/and or granite rocks (or something similar) to absorb the heat, and slowly release it. That way you are not losing most of the heat through the chimney pipe like a fireplace does. Of course the extra weight will necessarily require it to be sitting on the ground and not hanging on a wall. But would make it much more effecient and cost effective.
On second thought, better than a 5 gallon metal bucket (which will off-gas it's paint unless otherwise stripped), use a wide circumference metal duct tube with caps at both ends. Cut holes in both end caps for the chimney pipe to go through, and fill the tube with a heat mass to absorb the heat Otherwise, (for indoor use) a 5 gallon metal bucket would need to be fully stripped of it's paint and inner content before using, to eliminate paint fumes from being released into the air
basically: yes. some kind of absorbent "cladding" or ducting, that dissipates heat [at levels indicated in vid] would allow this design to be much safer for home use. not sure what you mean be "heat mass"? [i dont know enough about how materials absorb and radiate heat to comment] you mention "granite " initially, which is an interesting choice as a heat absorber-radiator... although i suspect such heavy materials would complicate the build installation to a degree... its an interesting engineering challenge: i'll do further research.
Neat job! Consider stuffing the heat pipe with copper dish scrubbies. I think you will find it will hardly impede flow but extract a lot more heat from the system.
The thing you need to make sure of its that you still have enough stack temperature. Extract too much heat and you lose draft. There's a sweet spot we have to find.
Read through the comments. Useful tips. Such as, don't use non heat resistant adhesives and paints as they will offgas. Use carbon fabric as it won't need to be replaced. Have the air intake draw outside air into the furnace so that you won't be drawing air from your house that you just spent fuel warming. There's many good tips to improve this project.
I admire your ingenuity and your passion to always improve performance through better design. Keep up the good work and as some have said in the comments, keep safety a top priority too. Keep on keeping on.
Great video! Not sure if it’s been pointed out, but stove paint will need cure for the first few builds, releasing a lot of fumes and odor. It’s recommended to cure the stove in a well ventilated area prior to installing indoors.
This is a cool prototype. I would caution using materials that are not designed for high heat long-term. The paints and adhesive compounds that aren't designed for 400-500 degrees will offgas chemicals over time into the house and affect your health. Starting with uncoated materials and spraying them with high-heat paint would be a safer solution.
@Mark Ketchum Paint is indeed a coating. So without further elaboration, we don't know what he meant. Since the only "coating" used in the video was the can of rustoleum paint, I made the assumption that was what he was referring to.
Great job.. looks like you are gaining both experience and a lot of support from the community.. Don't disappoint us, be sure you continue to update us with the additional practical ideas & inventions you have ready to show your supporters world wide...🎉
Brilliant work Daniel! If you add a Thermopile Module or 2 to the outside and cool them with fans you could easily power some LEDs to light the room or possibly even charge a phone or tablet!
@@goysb4jays566 it's a thermopile module that generates voltage based on temperature differential, the mini camping fridges and portable coolboxes work from the same kind of device
Hey Daniel, you're missing a metal IR reflector on the concrete wall. Also, your burn is quite inefficient, add some mantle to the flame area. Possibly with additional oxygenated air intake from outside. Lastly, add an IR metal reflector on the ceiling over your creation as air convection heats the ceiling instead of your room.
I'd love to see this same unit made with a few of the main safety concerns people have brought up addressed. This is a great looking, perfect sized and great functioning little unit I think you can bring to another level!
Great job. Most of what I was going to suggest has already been suggested in other people's comments. Air intake from out side (this will also reduce the amount of oxygen been taken from the room), peltier for fan and carbon felt for the wick. My other suggestion would be to mount it lower on the wall and extend the chimney. All these will improve it's efficiency. If you wanted to go an extra step, you could duct the fan inlet from the opposite corner of the room at floor level but this will need a couple of extra fans just to help the air circulation.
Not sure about the aluminum down spout, would probably keep a eye on it and could use some chicken wire or the wire mesh with 1/4 inch squares to keep birds and the like from coming in. Also a little deflector to nudge the heat into the room and away from the blind, the thin plastic of the slats may warp with the high heat. Looks like a neat project
For those wishing to duplicate this or other non certified heating source I strongly suggest you contact your insurance provider. Good luck getting coverage then and good luck collecting in the event of a fire. I did enjoy the video and admire the creativity and diy engineering skills. Nice video.
@@PlutoTheGod i can see that. Good point then. I guess one would have to know the ignition temp of the oils used to feel safe. Olive oil is 400f ish. The OP stated temps of over 500f. So ya. Cool concept but not safe.
@@FGQuinto it’s also the fact there’s a lot of radiant heat, a fan involved, a ventilation hole cut through the wall, non heat qualified paint and materials involved etc. there’s just an incredibly high chance of ignition or melting a ton of shit around the house. Most plastics melt around 230-270 degrees, paint on the walls of your home also around that range, at 300-500 things like curtains and other fabrics can start to combust etc.. it’s definitely not something to be taken lightly
Why would you ask for permission from the insurance company scammers? The answer will always be no. You should just say what you really mean which is don’t do this.
BRAVO on your Creativity & Safety! Consider thermally mounting inside your Heat-Exchanger , an additional copper or aluminum finned heat-exchanger (from an old computer) to create more surface area inside your heat-exchanger. You will get more heat out that way. You should also test "Activated Carbon Felt" as a wick-material. Pretty good capillary action for most liquids. You may need a few drops of Alcohol to get it started, depending on the oil used. And Activated Carbon Felt is heat resistant (very little smoke if any). Best of Luck - Regards.
@@goysb4jays566 'Thermal Mount' or thermally fastened ... the same way you mount your heat exchanger onto your computer CPU , is the same way you should create more surface area for this heat exchanger. More surface area to capture the heat , and more surface area to exchange the heat into the room , is a good thing!!! Mathematics & calculators for materials used are all online - Regards.
I use a paraffin heater, it heats up my whole room to a temp of about 75f when the temp outside is in the 40s. It uses about 1 gallon every 5 days, at £6.00 per gallon.
Great work. One remark: it sucks oxygen from the room, so it must get ventilated well. At the other hand: you could also make a double pipe, one for air inlet and one as exhaust.
it doesnt remove oxygen from the room, it pulls air through all the small gaps around the windows and doors of the house. The draft creates a slightly negative pressure, similar to turning on the exhaust fan in your bathroom (but not nearly as much CFM)
In the 3.0, add a room temperature sensor, so you can regulate the heat in the room automatically, raspberry or Arduino. So you can redirect the excess heat to outside. Just a idea. It's not practically correct but you can make it there brother. Your work is god level!
@@shaynegadsden Heatpumps are great for keeping a house at 20-23degreed C. When it's freezing cold like -35 like in Norway you NEED a firewood oven. Wood in Norway has gone up a fuck ton lately because are government has decided to ban firewood heating soon because they want to control everything with electricity. A solution like this would have been a blessing.
I actually used a 1/2in wide hurricane lamp for an extra (supposedly) 900btu of heat last night. 1500W (5100btu) space heater didn't quite keep up during a low 20s night.. used a 200W heater along with it and that sort of worked. But adding the 1/2in wick hurricane lamp to the 1500W heater.. stayed 70F in here. And was thinking on some kind of oil tank with several oil lamp burners.. extending the rods that adjust the wicks to outside an ammo box.. or maybe just have the knobs facing towards the door.. pop it open, turn wicks up/down, close it up.
Nice Video. Couple of thoughts for version 2.0. Why not use a Noctua Fan so that it is quieter. Also why not put the heat into a thermal mass and then heat the room from the thermal mass so that you can get more heat into the room, and less heat going up the drain pipe. Also you might want to extend you exhaust pipe past the roof line so that you don't have a fire.
@@goysb4jays566 I want to say good job and great idea of what you came up with already. Thermal Masses can be large and the can be small. I am just trying to find a way to capture as much heat as possible before sending it up the chimney. It could be something as simple as two ammo cans sitting on top of the heater filled with water or even half filled with water and another fan system running though that to take the heat and put it into the room. I was just a thought. But the bigger though for those people going out and buying the fan for this project is a Noctua fan. They are close to silent. Also please make sure you vent past your roof line. So many things can go wrong if you don't from prematurely aging of shingles to a fire breaking out. Also if it stick out at least a foot past your roof line it's harder to critters to climb in when you stove is off.
1) Cut out the fan entirely. Just extend the air intake to the floor and let convection do all the work. Zero energy use. 2)Thermal mass heating is only good for when you cant' fuel the heater for long periods but burners like this will go for well past 8 hours with a full tank. Otherwise it just takes longer to put out the heat because you have to heat all that extra mass before it starts radiating any noticeable heat. 3)Make the intake for the firebox come from outside that way you aren't pulling in cold air from outside through all the cracks in your house.
Fantastic concept, I am sure millions of homes would be very interested in a constant supply of cheap endless heat. Just another pointer, would maybe hold the back board off the wall a half inch as it would keep more heat in the house.
Awesome job. I like the way you think. I’m making two heaters just like it for my garage work space. One on either side of my work bench. Fingers crossed….
If you place a steel sculpture with a lot of surface area on top of the heater, you might transfer heat quicker. The sculpture could be removed with metal tongs in order to cook on the heater surface
Nice Build! We could use the same fire to run the fan blower using a Peltier device, so that their could be no external power source which will make it more efficient.
You should put a temperature control system in it. Temperature relates to how long the wick will burn till the temperature drops again to reignite the wick. Kind of like a furnace. Could save on oil consumption and promote safety measures. Also a carbon felt would be a great long lasting wick. You can get the carbon felt where they sell welding supplies.
Nice idea! 😁👍 but as shed heater (37m2 and less is a shed) a woodburning stove is absolutely enough. And if you like walks in the woods you easily pick up enough dead wood to heat it up while you use it. I think for the special usecase you have/had it’s a very cool idea, 8 enjoyed watching it 😁
You could improve its efficiency by adding a pipe to encase the exhaust pipe and filling the cavity between with sand. The sand would absorb heat from the exhaust and radiate it into the room when the heater is turned off
This can be improved: a) air intake should be from outside; b) the horizontal pipe across should be tilted to a diagonal position. The heated air inside will then rise automatically causing a natural draft and rendering the noisy ventilator superfluous.
@@turdferguson8612 Because you don't want to have to share what little oxygen you have in your living space with a flame. you need that air to breathe..
@@turdferguson8612 Combustion air for the fire in the box. Currently as designed, it pulls that air from inside the house, which raises several efficiency and draft issues. Using outside air for this purpose would be a major upgrade.
@@turdferguson8612 Air is being pulled from inside being pushed outside which means that all the seams by the windows and doors are drafting air to compensate to fill the room due to negative pressure
@@turdferguson8612 an outside air intake would prevent a potential negative pressure condition which could massively affect combustion. Also, if your windows and doors aren't tight enough to allow a negative pressure condition, well now you're just drawing in more cold air from outside into your home to feed that fire which reduces the bang for your buck because you're cooling the space you're supposed to be heating. You also spent fuel heating the air in your house so it wouldn't be good to allow that to get sucked up the chimney. Outside air intake solves and prevents all of those problems.
Cool! Nice design. I would use a flange on the inside and outside of the exhaust stack and switch to either wood pellet stove pipe, 3" to be worry free for the exhaust. Good work.
As a retired electronic engineer, I would really like to know how the title says "WITHOUT Electricity" and THEN you show the 12 Vdc fan installation? I was expecting you to use a "heat powered fan" , re-configured of course. I mean this id version 2.0.
Good point. I wonder if using a small solar panel to recharge batteries and making a battery operated computer fan could solve the need for electrical outlet for power outages or camps that have no electricity.
I would have put a sheet of radiant heat reflective material on the wall behind the heater so it reflects the heat from the back of the heater and the exhaust pipe into the cabin for more heat. The black panel will just absorb heat. But I like this design a lot.
That is a great idea that I am sure you will improve on as time goes on. My suggestion concerns the fireproof backing you used on the wall. If you leave a one-inch airgap behind it and lengthen the backing to within an inch of the floor. Convection will draw the cold air off the floor. It will rise dissipating the heat behind the panel and further help warm the area.
The screws and bolts need a huge amount of heat to warp. I assume normal screws and bolts would be fine for this project. The heat is contained inside the ammo box which causes the screws and bolts to not get nearly as much heat as any other part of the heater. As the video said, the fan is very efficient at circulating air through the heater so the hot part would be the pipes rather than the screws and bolts.
Hi, you Guy's are Great.!! I Love ya, channel.. Now" I'd like to see what it would do" with a coil of 3/8's to an 1/2" inch copper pipe, wrapping Around the exhaust Port and Hooked up to an Water reservoir.!?!? I bet it would be a constant Supply of ( 🥵!!HOT!! 🥵 ) WATER.!! That's easy to use for "all kinds of stuff".!! From in - floor heating, to production of steam to turn an Small ( off - Gride ) turbine generator, for Maybe, Doing "VERY LIGHT DUTY" OR Maybe Even to "Recharge" Cell phone,s Or even, a laptop, or battery's for the ( Weather Report, Radio).!! Lot's of possibilities.!!! Good luck experimenting, & GOD bless.!!
I would suggest drawing in the air from outside so you don't create an under-pressure that sucks in could air from everywhere. Depending on your insulation that could massively increase efficiency.
Same magic he uses to get around the fact that vegetable oil has 120,000 btu a gallon. Which makes this more expensive than just plugging in a small space heater.
@@dismayer666what? Space heaters aren't allowed to be used for heating? Please explain. I've only having heard of certain cheap brands being a fire risk and being banned for sale in some countries.
Youll definitely get a lot of heat when the building its installed in is burning to the ground... The concept is great, those materials are a guaranteed way to meet some new firefighter friends.
This would be perfect for a garage depending on the size build and install 2 or 3 of them, also use high temp jb weld or make the exhaust stainless so it's weldable to the ammo box. Carbon felt should last forever if not a really long time leaving you to typically only have to refill the oil
Look on Amazon for wood burner fan replacement parts, You will get a motor and an electric generator plate that works on the heat from the stove, I am sure you can fashion up a fan and fix the plate on top of the stove the operating temps are around 175 F to 650 F, incorporating a switch would probably be a cool idea too.
I like seeing young inventors try new things. Just some ideas. Your computer fan uses electricity. They have energy temperature differentials that generate low voltage power. Meaning one side hot, one side cool produces electricity. Another possible variation is your fan system. They have wood stove fans that spin with heat energy too. Keep up,the good work, looking forward to version 3.0
That’s pretty cool, I am making something like that with a beer keg to heat my garage, but I am using gel fuel, but your video gave me a idea, because I don’t have a fan, and I can’t make mine air tight because it sucks the oxygen out, and it will go out, but I like yours better, mine is a 16 gallon keg, and it takes up more room.
WoW This is absolutely fantastic work, safe and sound and easy to build. I am sure its simply a pleasure just to sit inside, especially on a dark cold rainy night : ) well done. Tip: try using 100% cotton towel cut to size (horizontally) and placed between 2 round bars.this would allow you to adjust the wick from both sides of the box and never have to change the wick depending on the length you choose. Of course This would need a lot of experimenting.
A couple things... Gutter downspout pipe is thin, often aluminum and has a baked on coating, none of which is good for a flue connector. Mild steel pipe (NOT galvanized, which produces very dangerous vapors when heated!) of at least 22 gauge thickness is recommended to avoid flue gasses leaking into the living space. Buy a kerosene heater wick and modify it to fit your fuel tank (flatten the circle into a two layer flat wick or cut it into a single flat layer - cut this outside and protect your breathing, as these wicks usually contain fiberglass, which is not good to breathe). The nonwoven polyesters that most baby or cleaning wipes break down when heated and release dangerous vapors, especially when the unit is allowed to run low or out of fuel and the fire attacks the wick material directly. The use of 750°F or higher heat rated adhesives is strongly recommended to avoid issues with chemical vapors and flue gasses escaping into the living space as the unit is used. Standard JB filled epoxy is not safe in an application like this. Follow the instructions on curing to the letter before painting and set the first fire for at least 30-60 minutes with the unit outside to let the materials off gas before installing. Metallic paint reflects a significant amount of the radiant heat back into the firebox and reduces the radiant heat released into the room by 10-40% depending on the chemical makeup. If heat output is the end goal, metallic paint is not the best choice. Let the high heat paint cure for at least 24 hours and, as others have said, set the first fire for at least 30-60 minutes with the unit outside to let the paint off gas before installing inside. If you have the option, ducting the fresh combustion air in from the outside is a better choice than using room air for the fire. If the building is not "leaking" in enough air to make up the air used and lost in combustion and up the flue, the reduction of available oxygen to the fire will begin to produce Carbon Monoxide, a odorless, tasteless gas which is deadly when it builds up in a space and is very difficult to recover from.
What about the fumes? And how long it last that amount of oil? Would it last through the night? Thanks it is an interesting idea. If the fumes are not too polluting one could make them go through a laberinto like in the Russian wood stoves made with briks, this way the heat of the fumes can be used tu further heat the place. Would be nice to know how long it takes a room to hit up.
Ah! I see you have a new version! Well done, much better. I like how you added 'without electricity'. Love it or hate it, its cheap and efficient. There is a reason we don't use oil heaters anymore. ;)
Few suggestions on how to make 4.0 your best yet: Stay with this 2.0 design, as it is the best of the 3 you made. You have a very efficient design with that could heat a 30 sq ft space with some adjustments. Use 3 inch black steel round pipe. Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Ace hardware can all cut it to exact dimensions for you. You can then cut holes it into the ammo box just slightly larger. This will look a bit cleaner but more importantly has a much higher melt point due to the higher carbon content. When you attach your 80mm fan, it will have less air resistance, will be quieter, but a much warmer output. Round pipe versus a flat surface with a direct flame does a few things. First round pipe improves your thermal cross section for the total area heat is being applied to. This in turn gives your air flow improved heat transfer and will nearly double your heat output. Then to reduce losses, space your wicks out to 7/8 to 1 1/8 inch spacing. For your cabin, the greater spacing is more efficient as you don't have a large volume of air to heat. Last, when you need to increase and decrease temperature due to seasonal fluctuations, you can light the minimally necessary amount of wicks as you need to. Cold day, light them all, then douse every other. For your air intake and exhaust, always source and drop outside for air quality and safety reasons. Exhaust, if going out a wall, must go further than your eave as you don't want the exhaust to wind up in your attic. JB weld high temp as it will off gas, especially since your inventions are getting bigger and producing more heat. If you want to get away from the electric fan, try using a stove fan. Otherwise, 12v solar panel kit and a car battery to make it fully off grid. Add a 12v dimmer switch after your battery and before the fan to provide air modulation. I'd get away from the gutter use. While it's neat, it's material is not very heat stable, off gasses a lot and wastes a lot of time in sealing it. I'd suggest some EMT, chain link fence pipe or good ol' chimney pipe.
This is ENDLESS Heat for Your Home WITHOUT Electricity 2.0. When the heater is used for the first time and gets very hot, it will begin to burn off some of the paint from the top of the heater. The same way a wood burning stove does when used for the very first time. After the paint is burned off, it will no longer emit fumes from the paint itself. If the house is very airtight, one might need to crack a window open, just a little bit to provide oxygen for the heater, or the heater can have a secondary pipe that is bringing oxygen in from outside. The same way we did on the previous heater video: th-cam.com/video/0guulsNSQXU/w-d-xo.html. The oil tank we built can hold half a gallon of oil, and it takes us a week to go through a single gallon of oil. We are only using the heater for 4-6 hours a day, only when we are there using our shop. Now if you need to run the heater nonstop, you will probably go through more oil each week. To put out the fire, simply put your hand over the fresh air intake pipe and hold it until the fire dies off from lack of oxygen. We are using dry cotton baby wipes as a fuse. Once the entire tank of oil is empty, we simply install a new baby wipe and refill the tank again. When the oil tank is completely full and the heater has been working for 30 minutes, the heat released from the heater is enormous. One can feel the heat from a distance or just walking by it. It feels like a blast of heat. We estimate that the heat released it approximately as much as two small space heaters at full blast.
Well done, Daniel. I like that you took some of the feedback from the previous build and then some to make this. Going horizontal was a definite design improvement. Spacing from the wall is a big improvement. The metal tube going through the center is also superior to what I'm about to use (stove pipe). And the long flame is fantastic! Well done 👍👍👍
BTW, mine is going to be used in an RV and mounted to a removable metal pane I place in the window. Also, I'm using mason jars to house the fuel (good visibility on fuel supply), 1/2" fiberglass wicks (VERY long lasting and large flames), and generic Crisco vegetable shortening (exceptionally long burn time). I may need to use one candle in one jar to be the first one I light. This will cause the other jars of Crisco to heat up, melting the shortening, and allowing the shortening to move up the wick. Then, they can be lit as well.
Thanks man!
I would consider a lid on the oil tank with narrow slit for the fuse material to ensure no fuse/flame/embers fall into the tank & causes a flash fire.
Would you be willing to sell me a unit I'd pay for shipping as well. Just bought a pelonis unit for 60$ very efficient only for one halfof the home though I would use this on the other. You definitely should consider selling these I'd patent it😂
@@JohnColgan. Best bet is to use some type of wadding such as mineral wool to completely fill the oil tank this way it's near impossible to have a spill.
Pretty cool! A couple of suggestions-- use carbon felt as the wick because it will never need to be replaced and will wick up almost anything. Use the high temp JB weld because this is pushing the temp limits of the standard JB weld and may release nasty vapors when it burns. Before painting it with high temp paint, give it a long hot burn outside so the original paints can off gas.
Yeah you can see the stove offgassing at the end, I bet that was nasty.
Wrong. Pretty warm ☺️
Exactly what I was going to say and you need an insulated pipe on the exterior wall of the building
better yet, weld the pipes up
@@SithLith
I thought of that, but figured I would cover the drain pipe with stovepipe bolted to the top and run up the chimney.
2 things I would like to mention. Don't use JB Weld. Once you reach the breakdown temps of JB it will start to release some toxic compounds into the air. Also, don't cook out of cans foods come in. They have petroleum based or plastic liners in them. You don't really feel or see it, but it is there and has been for a couple decades now. When you cook in the can that does leech into your food.
Otherwise, this is a great simple design for a small home or office area. I may would have put bend in tubbing and ran that through to increase the surface area and increasing the amount of heat that could have been created but this is a neat, clean straight forward design that does take up very little space. Nice work!
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ - What's wrong with you? This is not the type of place for you to proselytize and you're only going to create hard feelings. Plus it makes you sound like a nazi, fyi.
They have high heat JB Weld
@@therealbeedubbs35 Still though if you have the option to bell the ends into flanges then seal and bolt them in place, I would do that. You never really know if there is a possibility of maybe certain chemicals coming out of the compound into a closed space like a room or office. I haven't found any study done on JB weld EXTREMEHEAT as far as air quality or possible contaminants only in its durability.
I would just be afraid of accidentally touching it somehow by tripping. Maybe you could cover it with a fire blanket material so it's safer to be around I think and then make a separate model that is essentially like the old stoves that also were used for heating homes. Something you could at least fit a pot on.
Hush. Just hush. This will be excellent for the gene pool in a few years.
Happy to see so much encouraging words and safety suggestions in the same time ❤️ what a lovely community
safety ? SAFETY ?! using plastic for a heater it's really safe yeah, it's a freaking fire hazard this " invention" or i want to call this " put all the crap you have in one" just buy an electric or petrol heater, more safe , and less chance for it to BURN YOUR HOUSE
Heres one, he needs to get a noctua fan to make it far quieter.
You did a really good job on that guy. I have been building these and watching these videos for 6 years. This is one of the best ive seen
I am thinking of this for my attached garage. I have used electric space heaters in the past. The price of electricity is outrageous and this looks like a good inexpensive solution. Based on this build I already have most of the parts. In my opinion something like this is not for inside ones home/living space but rather a heat source for a garage or workshop or a tiny home or other out buildings.
Lots of good suggestions in the comments.
- Do a burn before painting is a good idea and is recommended for wood stove prior to installing.
- Use high heat JB weld.
- I like the idea of venting out the window (a horizontal sliding window) versus cutting a vent hole in the side of the wall.
- Installing the unit lower and draw the cooler air near the floor versus drawing cold air from outside. No need to cut an cool air intake hole in the wall.
The compact size makes it easy to remove and store in the summer and re-install every winter.
In the video he used a rectangular metal pipe for the heat transfer but I would use a metal chain link fence post section cust to the required length. The metal guage of the fence post would be sufficient to withstand the internal heat. I have some old fence posts lying around somewhere. I just have to find them.
You should be concerned about how warm it gets inside the heater. With the fuel container inside the enclosure, once the temperature hits around 150°F, the fuel will start to give off combustible vapors inside the enclosure which could lead to a fire. Perhaps if the fuel tank were hanging below the box so that it was exposed to the inside air, that would help keep the fuel cool.
The bottom won’t get that hot at all, the heat exchanger gets rid of the bulk of the heat and the chimney gets rid of the rest. All the heat remains above the flame. Cool air is constantly brought it from the bottom.
@@kerrywsmyth I don’t know. 150F isn’t that hot. Some lamp oils have flash points as low as 120F. I sell kerosene cook stoves for a living and I’ve never seen one where the fuel tank is inside the combustion chamber. One of my customers put a kerosene stove in a space where air flow was blocked on 3 sides. The fuel tank caught fire. If you simply made the box 2 inches shorter (top to bottom), cut a hole in the bottom and let the tank drop by two inches, it would be safer. Extra care should be taken with homemade heaters, as your homeowners insurance would not cover the fire damage from such a heater.
This also the exhaust isn’t code. That needs to be three wall insulated pipe pass through otherwise he’s gonna be burning down that house from that small hole
@@stpaulmercantile good point about the homeowners insurance doesn't cover fire damage from such a heater
@@ChunkiieCustomz I appreciate your information but I also had a stroke trying to read that
One concern I have is that the air inlet at the bottom should extend upwards into the heater sufficiently to ensure that if any oil were to leak from the oil tray, it couldn't find its way out that inlet pipe onto your floor. If the leaking oil caught flame, you'd burn the place down.
That oil will not burn without a wick unless it's super hot .
Oil could also leak out the door opening. I noticed there is no lip to stop it in case of an oil spill or leak.
The intake should be pulled from the floor. Cold air settles to the bottom of the house.
Use LPG 🤡
He clearly said he used vegetable cooking oil and thats around 600F so there's no worry about a fire for the fuel at all.
I like the concept! I actually made something very similar but I installed copper pipes to act as a heat exchanger which in turn creates alot of heat. I used a can of sterno for my heat source. I actually fine tuned the copper heat exchanger so well a candle even worked! Great job on the build...creative!
As I read some of the comments including yours I am amazed! Keep up the creativity!
🎉
@Doug we’d love to see your setup!
Your design sounds impressive do you have plans or a step by step video of your setup I'm very interested
Can you link us to a picture of it?
One reason the horizontal build is superior to the vertical build in your previous heater is that vegetable oil is thick and tends to fall off when the supply goes down below a certain level on the wick and the heater fizzles out. This is the same thing that happens with vegetable oil lamps that need a short distance between the flame and the bottom of the oil supply.
This model looks like it is easier to fill and safer than your previous version. Enjoy your warm home!
You can improve it even further.
1)Use caebon wick as wick.
2) Use a set of peltier modules to run the fan.
A Peltier module can convert heat into electic energy.
In this way, you will drastically reduce the costs of the wicks, make it electrically imdependent and the only thing you will have to do will be refilling it. You could also add a priming mechanism and a pipe that would allow you to refill the tank from the outside - without opening the lid.
That's awesome. I'm going to build a cabin and do this.
Thank you so much for compiling these suggestions!
these are very good improvements: thanx for sharing.
I love how everyone is adding their knowledge to a great design, their two cents if you will. This is definitely why two heads are better than one and things get built so much better with logic.
The true Sabbath day is calculated by the Time/Calendar God ordained in the beginning of creation, Genesis 1:14
True Sabbaths are not calculated by the "Famous Gregorian calendar" or any other man made time.
"He shall think to change times and laws..." Daniel 7:25
What calendar will be used for worship in Isaiah 66:22,23?
God is seeking those who will worship Him in Spirit and in truth.
Keeping God's Sabbath by God's Time in Genesis 1:14 is truth....
What if God should allow a Sabbath test to be enforce on nations, by "The Powers To Be", to see if His people will keep His Truth or no???
God's truth is our shield and buckler, Psalms 91❤️
For the next one like this or maybe you could modifly this one, try and find some peltier modules to hook up to the fan. That way the heat from the stove will generate power for the fan and it will run itself perpetually as long as there's fuel in it. Really cool build
Stirling engine fan
point of distaterous failure. if that fan stops=nightmare scenario
@@bmunday just curious, what would happen?
@@andygold yes, good question...
Are there examples of such an application you can share? I'm curious to see this peltier module setup in action.
Wrap a small diameter copper (water) tube around a portion of the flue pipe to turn waste heat into hot water. Would require an overhead (insulated) resevoir, pressure relief valve (unless it is an open system), and a faucet at the bottom.
Also, put a pot of water on it to return moisture into your building that is being removed by the heat.
I was thinking something along those lines as well... This would be perfect for a small camp or even an ice fishing hut...
Be careful about mold though
Nice work Dan. You are a true inventor with a smile. Keep on inventing great things for us all to learn from on TH-cam.
Thanks for being with us from day one!
@@DanielsInventions I look forward to see you make the greatest invention to help mankind. Keep up the great work fella too. Peace
TIP: i build rocket mass heaters and have been heating 1200sf with 5 face cords of free pine off cuts in northern mi were we get sub 0 temps.
Mod your Exhaust rather then straight up and out shape it to go back and forth a few feet at an upward angle. This is called a dragon pipe. It alows more of the Exhaust heat to sap out into the room before it gose outside. Should squeeze a lil more heat out of it
My RMH burns at easly 2000 f and the chimney is only 80-100 f so cold i use a plastic pc fan as a assist fan
For your next build you should design your bottom intake to draw air from outside. Since your bottom intake draws air from within the cabin, it's also drawing out the warmed air and exhausting it outside. This is similar to the issue with old fireplaces, they draw the warmed air into the fireplace and then exhausts it out the chimney, which is why fireplaces were very inefficient. Modern wood stoves are much better because they don't draw air from within the house. So, if your intake draws from outside air you won't have to worry about the heater drawing any warm air from within the cabin and exhausting it outside. But great concept, I like it!
Better to draw warm air from the room to heat up and circulate again, it will work less hard, this is a good design apart from the air to blow out should be aimed up from the intake so no need to use a fan, Chimney effect.
Would the outside temperatures cool down the burn chamber more than the loss of heat being drawn in from the room? It would be simple to test. I am curious.
wouldnt bringing cold air in from outside create moisture issues or affect the flame? if anything, intake should be longer to pull cooler air from lower level of the room..
my question would be - would there be an improvement in heat distribution if instead of an open hole at the end, it was blocked at the end and had a floor register design that sent the heat out in different directions?
It's actually better to draw the air from the room. It creates a slightly negative pressure inside allowing fresh air to find its way in through windows etc. If the source is outside you are constantly recycling the same air inside and because it's hot the inside creates a positive pressure which means if there are any fumes that leak they are staying inside and building up toxins. The small amount of air passing outside is not going to effect the hearing much in either case but its better to have a slightly negative pressure in the room allowing fresh air to seep in thus having cleaner air. HVAC was a field I worked in for a bit and we always tried to have air going outside in some circumstances to create a slightly negative pressure indoors to allow fresh air to seep in.
Under certain conditions this can result in the system reversing. Drawing air at the flue and exhausting through the intake.
Genius Idea!!! I'm going to have my son watch this. We've been discussing whether to put in a small woodstove in my small home, but I LOVE this idea and he's very handy at building things.
Keep the fire departments # handy too!
Great job. I see a lot of good suggestions in the comments for a 2.0 version. You should also modify you heat exchange. Use multiple smaller round pipes and have them loop around the inside of the furnace so they pass the flame twice before venting out. You'll mimic modern day furnaces and gain more heat transfer to up the efficiency. Great design though. Perfect for a small cabin or tiny home.
yes,I might even circle around a water tank. I was thinking animal fat can also a fuel. Lots of tips from other comments! a good read!
I thought this was 2.0, by the title?
From an HVAC guy, you are a pretty smart kid your heater is really awesome.
This is an incredible invention and video presentation. I also love all of the positive contributions being offered in the comments. This sort of community collaboration is a great example of how extraordinary improvements can occur for humans.
For the next level of off-grid utility, you could add a small Stirling engine to generate the electricity to run the fan. Once the heater warms up, the fan will kick on and the only input is fuel.
You can also just let convection do all the work too. Just run the air intake for the heater to the floor and it will naturally suck in the colder air from lower down as the hot air comes out at the heater.
@@SilvaDreamsgreat idea!
Nice build. Compact and looks good on the wall too.
Just a tip for cutting your steel box. Try drilling holes in each corner first so when you use your angle grinder you will get a cleaner cut to the corners. If the corners need to be square you can use a file to achieve that.
As the hot air is vented out the exhaust flu new air must be introduced to the room which usually means cold air from outside will be sucked in through window and door gaps creating drafts. To help prevent this you could draw your cold air from outside rather than the room by putting another hole in the wall and channelling your air intake through there.
For your wick you could also use pure carbon felt. Not too expensive and will last forever.
Keep up the good work
Combining that idea with a basic heat exchanger would boost the overall efficiency tremendously.
@whitemaninventedeverything9511 Nah, man, it's way more fun in public.
What is carbon wick? Where do I get it?
I agree. Drawing cool outside air means you are not throwing away the warm air that you just heated. This one change dramatically improves the efficiency of the heater. I hadn't heard about carbon felt before, that's also a great tip.
Daniel you now have a very good reason to learn to weld and then you won’t need an my jb weld or concerns about the temps getting too high. You can also find paint for bbq pits that should withstand the high temps. Great build though, I would consider a cover for the oil cause one little flamey bit drops into that container and you could have a potentially disastrous result. Otherwise impressive engineering
I bought a 60$ welder from a pawn shop *and it changed my life*
massively expanded my ability to make things, it was seriously like not knowing about cordless drills then getting one
I'm 40 and have spent my entire life of crafting and woodworking, thinking of welding as something other people do. one of my biggest regrets is i didn't just do it sooner.
seriously for 200$ you can setup and teach yourself to do simple welds and it's been huge.
The rain gutter pipe is very thin and would be difficult to weld. It would also be more difficult to make it perfectly airtight with just welding.
@@incorrba nah I've welded on worse lol, just need to turn the heat down and spend more time on the thicker metal just basically dragging the pool over to the gutter briefly and going back quickly before you burn through.
High heat red silicone work great. I use it on gaskets for pellet stoves.
The oil will not burn if a flame drops into it. It requires a wick at that low of a temperature.
Use this concept for an existing wood burning stove. All you have to do is put an oil pan inside with several wick bars. It already has controllable air intake, glass door and exhaust is already going through the roof. While you can get a forced air attachment, it just automatically radiates heat into the environment.
The heat build up inside the stove could bring the oil to a boil and cause a dangerous fire - that goes for the model above as well. The inlet combustion air in the above case is probably keeping the oil cool enough but that may be more luck than planning.
Also i believe that the exhaust must be higher the building for some reason.
You could add a container of granite rocks and/or sand to the top of the unit to absorb and slowly release heat over many hours
For example, put a 5 gallon metal bucket on top, with the exhaust tube extending through the middle of the bucket. Then fill the bucket with sand/and or granite rocks (or something similar) to absorb the heat, and slowly release it.
That way you are not losing most of the heat through the chimney pipe like a fireplace does.
Of course the extra weight will necessarily require it to be sitting on the ground and not hanging on a wall. But would make it much more effecient and cost effective.
On second thought, better than a 5 gallon metal bucket (which will off-gas it's paint unless otherwise stripped), use a wide circumference metal duct tube with caps at both ends.
Cut holes in both end caps for the chimney pipe to go through, and fill the tube with a heat mass to absorb the heat
Otherwise, (for indoor use) a 5 gallon metal bucket would need to be fully stripped of it's paint and inner content before using, to eliminate paint fumes from being released into the air
basically: yes. some kind of absorbent "cladding" or ducting, that dissipates heat [at levels indicated in vid] would allow this design to be much safer for home use.
not sure what you mean be "heat mass"? [i dont know enough about how materials absorb and radiate heat to comment] you mention "granite " initially, which is an interesting choice as a heat absorber-radiator... although i suspect such heavy materials would complicate the build installation to a degree...
its an interesting engineering challenge: i'll do further research.
Love this design. Much needed in the UK right now!
I'm making One
sadly......
Neat job! Consider stuffing the heat pipe with copper dish scrubbies. I think you will find it will hardly impede flow but extract a lot more heat from the system.
The thing you need to make sure of its that you still have enough stack temperature. Extract too much heat and you lose draft. There's a sweet spot we have to find.
Marvelous idea Daniel!! so very much appreciated going to construct my first unit. Will comment on its performance, wish me luck....
Read through the comments. Useful tips. Such as, don't use non heat resistant adhesives and paints as they will offgas. Use carbon fabric as it won't need to be replaced. Have the air intake draw outside air into the furnace so that you won't be drawing air from your house that you just spent fuel warming. There's many good tips to improve this project.
I admire your ingenuity and your passion to always improve performance through better design. Keep up the good work and as some have said in the comments, keep safety a top priority too. Keep on keeping on.
I got to build one, great job young man❤
Its basically a vented kerosene heater. Love the DIY engineering. 😎👍
Except hes not using kerosene
Great video! Not sure if it’s been pointed out, but stove paint will need cure for the first few builds, releasing a lot of fumes and odor. It’s recommended to cure the stove in a well ventilated area prior to installing indoors.
Also mostly just burning off the original paint will do wonders too because if you don't it'll peel as well as off gas.
This is a cool prototype. I would caution using materials that are not designed for high heat long-term. The paints and adhesive compounds that aren't designed for 400-500 degrees will offgas chemicals over time into the house and affect your health. Starting with uncoated materials and spraying them with high-heat paint would be a safer solution.
Yes it would probably be a good idea to sand blast the ammo box prior to painting with high temo paint.
That coating is high heat jb weld is smart to use if he wanted he could use high heat caulking that would do the same with some pop rivits
@@kcufecaf Straight from the back of that exact Rustoleum can: Do not spray on surfaces that will exceed 200⁰ Fahrenheit.
He said coating not paint.
@Mark Ketchum Paint is indeed a coating. So without further elaboration, we don't know what he meant. Since the only "coating" used in the video was the can of rustoleum paint, I made the assumption that was what he was referring to.
As hot as that heater gets, it seems perfect for a remote site. Hearing and cooking in such a compact space? Nice! Thank you for making this.
Great job.. looks like you are gaining both experience and a lot of support from the community.. Don't disappoint us, be sure you continue to update us with the additional practical ideas & inventions you have ready to show your supporters world wide...🎉
Brilliant work Daniel! If you add a Thermopile Module or 2 to the outside and cool them with fans you could easily power some LEDs to light the room or possibly even charge a phone or tablet!
good idea as ive seen those little wood heater chargers in camp shops and online..5v led are common
or just use the TEG modules to power the circulation fan.
@@dmatter98 good idea!
or take the power you would use to run those fans..... and use that to run lights or charge a phone...
@@goysb4jays566 it's a thermopile module that generates voltage based on temperature differential, the mini camping fridges and portable coolboxes work from the same kind of device
Hey Daniel, you're missing a metal IR reflector on the concrete wall. Also, your burn is quite inefficient, add some mantle to the flame area. Possibly with additional oxygenated air intake from outside. Lastly, add an IR metal reflector on the ceiling over your creation as air convection heats the ceiling instead of your room.
This is an excellent project. Be encouraged to continue exploring ideas! 😊
I'd love to see this same unit made with a few of the main safety concerns people have brought up addressed. This is a great looking, perfect sized and great functioning little unit I think you can bring to another level!
That’s an awesome testimony. Thank you for what you do!
Great job. Most of what I was going to suggest has already been suggested in other people's comments. Air intake from out side (this will also reduce the amount of oxygen been taken from the room), peltier for fan and carbon felt for the wick. My other suggestion would be to mount it lower on the wall and extend the chimney. All these will improve it's efficiency. If you wanted to go an extra step, you could duct the fan inlet from the opposite corner of the room at floor level but this will need a couple of extra fans just to help the air circulation.
Not sure about the aluminum down spout, would probably keep a eye on it and could use some chicken wire or the wire mesh with 1/4 inch squares to keep birds and the like from coming in. Also a little deflector to nudge the heat into the room and away from the blind, the thin plastic of the slats may warp with the high heat. Looks like a neat project
For those wishing to duplicate this or other non certified heating source I strongly suggest you contact your insurance provider. Good luck getting coverage then and good luck collecting in the event of a fire. I did enjoy the video and admire the creativity and diy engineering skills. Nice video.
Its an oil lamp?
@@FGQuintowith a high risk of fire, which then will void your homeowners insurance
@@PlutoTheGod i can see that. Good point then. I guess one would have to know the ignition temp of the oils used to feel safe. Olive oil is 400f ish. The OP stated temps of over 500f. So ya. Cool concept but not safe.
@@FGQuinto it’s also the fact there’s a lot of radiant heat, a fan involved, a ventilation hole cut through the wall, non heat qualified paint and materials involved etc. there’s just an incredibly high chance of ignition or melting a ton of shit around the house. Most plastics melt around 230-270 degrees, paint on the walls of your home also around that range, at 300-500 things like curtains and other fabrics can start to combust etc.. it’s definitely not something to be taken lightly
Why would you ask for permission from the insurance company scammers? The answer will always be no. You should just say what you really mean which is don’t do this.
So simple and smart! Congrats! This is actually a very good idea!
You leave out the most important info, how much oil does it consume in 24 hrs heating that 400sft space in freezing winter temperature?
BRAVO on your Creativity & Safety!
Consider thermally mounting inside your Heat-Exchanger , an additional copper or aluminum finned heat-exchanger (from an old computer) to create more surface area inside your heat-exchanger. You will get more heat out that way.
You should also test "Activated Carbon Felt" as a wick-material. Pretty good capillary action for most liquids. You may need a few drops of Alcohol to get it started, depending on the oil used.
And Activated Carbon Felt is heat resistant (very little smoke if any).
Best of Luck - Regards.
@@goysb4jays566 'Thermal Mount' or thermally fastened ... the same way you mount your heat exchanger onto your computer CPU , is the same way you should create more surface area for this heat exchanger.
More surface area to capture the heat , and more surface area to exchange the heat into the room , is a good thing!!!
Mathematics & calculators for materials used are all online - Regards.
I use a paraffin heater, it heats up my whole room to a temp of about 75f when the temp outside is in the 40s. It uses about 1 gallon every 5 days, at £6.00 per gallon.
terrible idea inside ur house
Not sure I’ll ever get around to building one at this point but love the idea. Great job. You have a new subscriber
Don't. Jb weld doesn't hold up to heat and drain pipe isn't designed to be an exhaust
This is a good improvement over the last one. I think there are several great suggestions below, so...I can't wait to see version 3...
This is so cool. The only thing is adaptations to have the exhaust out the window for an apartment. Thanks for sharing this.
Great work. One remark: it sucks oxygen from the room, so it must get ventilated well. At the other hand: you could also make a double pipe, one for air inlet and one as exhaust.
it doesnt remove oxygen from the room, it pulls air through all the small gaps around the windows and doors of the house. The draft creates a slightly negative pressure, similar to turning on the exhaust fan in your bathroom (but not nearly as much CFM)
More of THIS young people!! More of this!
Without electricity?!? How does the fan work?
Love the idea. Looks awesome.
@@d34dbolt20 unless you're pulling air hot enough to melt the fan :)
In the 3.0, add a room temperature sensor, so you can regulate the heat in the room automatically, raspberry or Arduino. So you can redirect the excess heat to outside. Just a idea. It's not practically correct but you can make it there brother. Your work is god level!
Absolutely wonderful. You have done a fantastic job and it is very effective and economical thank you 🙏 friend.
I’m sure the electric companies will love this 👍
Why would they care a heat pump cost less to run for the same amount of heat
@@shaynegadsden Heatpumps are great for keeping a house at 20-23degreed C. When it's freezing cold like -35 like in Norway you NEED a firewood oven. Wood in Norway has gone up a fuck ton lately because are government has decided to ban firewood heating soon because they want to control everything with electricity. A solution like this would have been a blessing.
@@devinegamingtv3427 geothermal heat pump not only is it even more efficient than a regular heat pump ambient temperature has little effect
I actually used a 1/2in wide hurricane lamp for an extra (supposedly) 900btu of heat last night. 1500W (5100btu) space heater didn't quite keep up during a low 20s night.. used a 200W heater along with it and that sort of worked. But adding the 1/2in wick hurricane lamp to the 1500W heater.. stayed 70F in here.
And was thinking on some kind of oil tank with several oil lamp burners.. extending the rods that adjust the wicks to outside an ammo box.. or maybe just have the knobs facing towards the door.. pop it open, turn wicks up/down, close it up.
Nice Video. Couple of thoughts for version 2.0. Why not use a Noctua Fan so that it is quieter. Also why not put the heat into a thermal mass and then heat the room from the thermal mass so that you can get more heat into the room, and less heat going up the drain pipe. Also you might want to extend you exhaust pipe past the roof line so that you don't have a fire.
@@goysb4jays566 I want to say good job and great idea of what you came up with already. Thermal Masses can be large and the can be small. I am just trying to find a way to capture as much heat as possible before sending it up the chimney. It could be something as simple as two ammo cans sitting on top of the heater filled with water or even half filled with water and another fan system running though that to take the heat and put it into the room. I was just a thought.
But the bigger though for those people going out and buying the fan for this project is a Noctua fan. They are close to silent.
Also please make sure you vent past your roof line. So many things can go wrong if you don't from prematurely aging of shingles to a fire breaking out. Also if it stick out at least a foot past your roof line it's harder to critters to climb in when you stove is off.
1) Cut out the fan entirely. Just extend the air intake to the floor and let convection do all the work. Zero energy use.
2)Thermal mass heating is only good for when you cant' fuel the heater for long periods but burners like this will go for well past 8 hours with a full tank. Otherwise it just takes longer to put out the heat because you have to heat all that extra mass before it starts radiating any noticeable heat.
3)Make the intake for the firebox come from outside that way you aren't pulling in cold air from outside through all the cracks in your house.
Fantastic concept, I am sure millions of homes would be very interested in a constant supply of cheap endless heat. Just another pointer, would maybe hold the back board off the wall a half inch as it would keep more heat in the house.
Awesome job. I like the way you think. I’m making two heaters just like it for my garage work space. One on either side of my work bench. Fingers crossed….
If you place a steel sculpture with a lot of surface area on top of the heater, you might transfer heat quicker. The sculpture could be removed with metal tongs in order to cook on the heater surface
I have two cast iron Crows on my wood stove. This trick works.
Nice Build! We could use the same fire to run the fan blower using a Peltier device, so that their could be no external power source which will make it more efficient.
You should put a temperature control system in it. Temperature relates to how long the wick will burn till the temperature drops again to reignite the wick. Kind of like a furnace. Could save on oil consumption and promote safety measures. Also a carbon felt would be a great long lasting wick. You can get the carbon felt where they sell welding supplies.
That invention needs to go into production. Great job brother 👍👍👏👏👏
Nice idea! 😁👍 but as shed heater (37m2 and less is a shed) a woodburning stove is absolutely enough. And if you like walks in the woods you easily pick up enough dead wood to heat it up while you use it. I think for the special usecase you have/had it’s a very cool idea, 8 enjoyed watching it 😁
to me this is a work of art and i would pay 300 pounds for one the same as this.
You could improve its efficiency by adding a pipe to encase the exhaust pipe and filling the cavity between with sand. The sand would absorb heat from the exhaust and radiate it into the room when the heater is turned off
This can be improved:
a) air intake should be from outside;
b) the horizontal pipe across should be tilted to a diagonal position. The heated air inside will then rise automatically causing a natural draft and rendering the noisy ventilator superfluous.
Why would you pull in cold air from outside?
@@turdferguson8612 Because you don't want to have to share what little oxygen you have in your living space with a flame. you need that air to breathe..
@@turdferguson8612 Combustion air for the fire in the box.
Currently as designed, it pulls that air from inside the house, which raises several efficiency and draft issues. Using outside air for this purpose would be a major upgrade.
@@turdferguson8612 Air is being pulled from inside being pushed outside which means that all the seams by the windows and doors are drafting air to compensate to fill the room due to negative pressure
@@turdferguson8612 an outside air intake would prevent a potential negative pressure condition which could massively affect combustion. Also, if your windows and doors aren't tight enough to allow a negative pressure condition, well now you're just drawing in more cold air from outside into your home to feed that fire which reduces the bang for your buck because you're cooling the space you're supposed to be heating. You also spent fuel heating the air in your house so it wouldn't be good to allow that to get sucked up the chimney. Outside air intake solves and prevents all of those problems.
Cool! Nice design. I would use a flange on the inside and outside of the exhaust stack and switch to either wood pellet stove pipe, 3" to be worry free for the exhaust. Good work.
This is amazing work buddy! May i suggest that you have the intake fan/pipe very close to the floor to suck up the cold est air first
That's awesome Dan👍
As a retired electronic engineer, I would really like to know how the title says "WITHOUT Electricity" and THEN you show the 12 Vdc fan installation?
I was expecting you to use a "heat powered fan" , re-configured of course.
I mean this id version 2.0.
Good point. I wonder if using a small solar panel to recharge batteries and making a battery operated computer fan could solve the need for electrical outlet for power outages or camps that have no electricity.
I would have put a sheet of radiant heat reflective material on the wall behind the heater so it reflects the heat from the back of the heater and the exhaust pipe into the cabin for more heat. The black panel will just absorb heat. But I like this design a lot.
Its all in the same space either way. Along as it's insulated it won't make a difference.
That vinyl mini blind might deform from the heat over time unless the hot air is directed away?
A reflector reduces the risk of the wall getting hot enough to spontaneously ignite.
Very ingenious you're definitely Gifted. 🎉
That is a great idea that I am sure you will improve on as time goes on. My suggestion concerns the fireproof backing you used on the wall. If you leave a one-inch airgap behind it and lengthen the backing to within an inch of the floor. Convection will draw the cold air off the floor. It will rise dissipating the heat behind the panel and further help warm the area.
NOT ALL HEROS WEAR CAPES! Thank you my friend !
Love the design! Well done!! Did you use high heat screws and bolts? I am just wondering if they melted or warped once they got hot.
The screws and bolts need a huge amount of heat to warp. I assume normal screws and bolts would be fine for this project. The heat is contained inside the ammo box which causes the screws and bolts to not get nearly as much heat as any other part of the heater. As the video said, the fan is very efficient at circulating air through the heater so the hot part would be the pipes rather than the screws and bolts.
There is jbweld joints so I wouldnt be worried about screws 😁
Awesome build! Im thinking of trying one for my shop- at the moment im looking for something else to use instead of my ammo box
Could use a cheap tent stove and modify it to an oil burner.
Congratulations for this sparkling conception!!!
Go Daniel Go! Keep on showing us how its done! Good work.
Hi, you Guy's are Great.!! I Love ya, channel..
Now" I'd like to see what it would do" with a coil of 3/8's to an 1/2" inch copper pipe, wrapping
Around the exhaust Port and Hooked up to an Water reservoir.!?!? I bet it would be a constant
Supply of ( 🥵!!HOT!! 🥵 ) WATER.!! That's easy to use for "all kinds of stuff".!! From in - floor heating, to production of steam to turn an
Small ( off - Gride ) turbine generator, for
Maybe, Doing "VERY LIGHT DUTY"
OR Maybe Even to "Recharge" Cell phone,s
Or even, a laptop, or battery's for the ( Weather
Report, Radio).!! Lot's of possibilities.!!! Good luck experimenting, & GOD bless.!!
I would suggest drawing in the air from outside so you don't create an under-pressure that sucks in could air from everywhere.
Depending on your insulation that could massively increase efficiency.
I'm pretty sure he did... At least that's how he showed doing it in the first one he made.
WITHOUT Electricity ? how is the 12 v fan?
Just go like this to block out those pesky lying wires. Problem solved.
Magic.
Same magic he uses to get around the fact that vegetable oil has 120,000 btu a gallon. Which makes this more expensive than just plugging in a small space heater.
@@trevorthompson572 which you can't use for heating. It's forbidden by law atleast in civilized countries.
@@dismayer666what? Space heaters aren't allowed to be used for heating? Please explain.
I've only having heard of certain cheap brands being a fire risk and being banned for sale in some countries.
Great creation, both heater
and video. Well done!
Youll definitely get a lot of heat when the building its installed in is burning to the ground... The concept is great, those materials are a guaranteed way to meet some new firefighter friends.
This would be perfect for a garage depending on the size build and install 2 or 3 of them, also use high temp jb weld or make the exhaust stainless so it's weldable to the ammo box. Carbon felt should last forever if not a really long time leaving you to typically only have to refill the oil
Very nice design!
But I have a question: Can the 12 volt fan be replaced with one of those heat powered Wood Stove Fans ??
Look on Amazon for wood burner fan replacement parts, You will get a motor and an electric generator plate that works on the heat from the stove, I am sure you can fashion up a fan and fix the plate on top of the stove the operating temps are around 175 F to 650 F, incorporating a switch would probably be a cool idea too.
Surprised the government hasn't taken off youtube yet. Thats a great idea, thanks. Keep'em comin'
I like seeing young inventors try new things. Just some ideas. Your computer fan uses electricity. They have energy temperature differentials that generate low voltage power. Meaning one side hot, one side cool produces electricity. Another possible variation is your fan system. They have wood stove fans that spin with heat energy too. Keep up,the good work, looking forward to version 3.0
That’s pretty cool, I am making something like that with a beer keg to heat my garage, but I am using gel fuel, but your video gave me a idea, because I don’t have a fan, and I can’t make mine air tight because it sucks the oxygen out, and it will go out, but I like yours better, mine is a 16 gallon keg, and it takes up more room.
This looks fantastic, I want one!
Please be careful using the angle grinder with gloves, I've heard people say that can end badly.
Rule #7: Never wear gloves near rotary equipment.
Very good idea
WoW This is absolutely fantastic work, safe and sound and easy to build. I am sure its simply a pleasure just to sit inside, especially on a dark cold rainy night : ) well done. Tip: try using 100% cotton towel cut to size (horizontally) and placed between 2 round bars.this would allow you to adjust the wick from both sides of the box and never have to change the wick depending on the length you choose. Of course This would need a lot of experimenting.
Young man, you are how I wish my sons turn out to be. Subscribed.
this is awesome! This would be perfect for a storage unit that doubles as a mancave or something.
A couple things...
Gutter downspout pipe is thin, often aluminum and has a baked on coating, none of which is good for a flue connector. Mild steel pipe (NOT galvanized, which produces very dangerous vapors when heated!) of at least 22 gauge thickness is recommended to avoid flue gasses leaking into the living space.
Buy a kerosene heater wick and modify it to fit your fuel tank (flatten the circle into a two layer flat wick or cut it into a single flat layer - cut this outside and protect your breathing, as these wicks usually contain fiberglass, which is not good to breathe). The nonwoven polyesters that most baby or cleaning wipes break down when heated and release dangerous vapors, especially when the unit is allowed to run low or out of fuel and the fire attacks the wick material directly.
The use of 750°F or higher heat rated adhesives is strongly recommended to avoid issues with chemical vapors and flue gasses escaping into the living space as the unit is used. Standard JB filled epoxy is not safe in an application like this. Follow the instructions on curing to the letter before painting and set the first fire for at least 30-60 minutes with the unit outside to let the materials off gas before installing.
Metallic paint reflects a significant amount of the radiant heat back into the firebox and reduces the radiant heat released into the room by 10-40% depending on the chemical makeup. If heat output is the end goal, metallic paint is not the best choice. Let the high heat paint cure for at least 24 hours and, as others have said, set the first fire for at least 30-60 minutes with the unit outside to let the paint off gas before installing inside.
If you have the option, ducting the fresh combustion air in from the outside is a better choice than using room air for the fire. If the building is not "leaking" in enough air to make up the air used and lost in combustion and up the flue, the reduction of available oxygen to the fire will begin to produce Carbon Monoxide, a odorless, tasteless gas which is deadly when it builds up in a space and is very difficult to recover from.
What about the fumes? And how long it last that amount of oil? Would it last through the night?
Thanks it is an interesting idea. If the fumes are not too polluting one could make them go through a laberinto like in the Russian wood stoves made with briks, this way the heat of the fumes can be used tu further heat the place. Would be nice to know how long it takes a room to hit up.
Think that’s why he has the exhaust pipe going outside.
what do you mean by “a laberinto?”
Ah! I see you have a new version! Well done, much better. I like how you added 'without electricity'. Love it or hate it, its cheap and efficient. There is a reason we don't use oil heaters anymore. ;)
Few suggestions on how to make 4.0 your best yet:
Stay with this 2.0 design, as it is the best of the 3 you made. You have a very efficient design with that could heat a 30 sq ft space with some adjustments.
Use 3 inch black steel round pipe. Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Ace hardware can all cut it to exact dimensions for you. You can then cut holes it into the ammo box just slightly larger. This will look a bit cleaner but more importantly has a much higher melt point due to the higher carbon content. When you attach your 80mm fan, it will have less air resistance, will be quieter, but a much warmer output.
Round pipe versus a flat surface with a direct flame does a few things. First round pipe improves your thermal cross section for the total area heat is being applied to. This in turn gives your air flow improved heat transfer and will nearly double your heat output. Then to reduce losses, space your wicks out to 7/8 to 1 1/8 inch spacing. For your cabin, the greater spacing is more efficient as you don't have a large volume of air to heat. Last, when you need to increase and decrease temperature due to seasonal fluctuations, you can light the minimally necessary amount of wicks as you need to. Cold day, light them all, then douse every other.
For your air intake and exhaust, always source and drop outside for air quality and safety reasons. Exhaust, if going out a wall, must go further than your eave as you don't want the exhaust to wind up in your attic.
JB weld high temp as it will off gas, especially since your inventions are getting bigger and producing more heat.
If you want to get away from the electric fan, try using a stove fan. Otherwise, 12v solar panel kit and a car battery to make it fully off grid. Add a 12v dimmer switch after your battery and before the fan to provide air modulation.
I'd get away from the gutter use. While it's neat, it's material is not very heat stable, off gasses a lot and wastes a lot of time in sealing it. I'd suggest some EMT, chain link fence pipe or good ol' chimney pipe.
Good suggestions for improvement!