Good Morning Premium Ropes. I just did my first eye splice in 4mm double braided spectra and pollyester last night. Pretty impressed with how it turned out. Thanks for these awesome videos. I'm just wondering, have you ever heard of anyone splicing double braided to bungee cord? Is it possible? Or an eyesplice?
Good to hear that you liked our videos and it turned out good! Splicing to shock cord (bungee cord) is not possible. We use very nice shock cord clamps! We do sometimes splice shock cord into double braided ropes. If you're interested in that, please send us an email on info@premiumropes.com!
To ensure full use of the core & shell strength, it is important to temporarily pin or knot the rope about a yard back, so you can avoid stretching the core or shell. Some measurements, & rope thicknesses would be helpful.
Thank you for the great tutorial. It works very well, but the buried core makes the rope quite a bit thicker, potentially causing issues when the splice is close to a block. I tried this is for the mainsheet traveller, and the rope was all of a sudden too thick and stiff for the sheave. I'm wondering whether a bowline is preferable in this case.
Is there any benefit to whipping this splice? Will it help or hurt it’s integrity? I just did this splice with a Tylaska shackle on 7/16 Samson Warpspeed
Thanks for this video, it is excellent. I want to splice VPC for halyard, do you have another video where the buried portion is not as thick to enable smooth movement on masthead sheave?
1:40 Does the amount of core to pull out vary by rope diameter? I have some of your 5mm rope to splice, which looks a bit smaller than the rope you're working on here. Should I pull out a little bit less?
Hi premium ropes, i am thinking of replacing the stainless steel standing rigging on my boat with dynema. Will it be o.k. to use double braided rope with dynema core for this job? My thinking is that the outer braid will offer a bit of protection to the dyneema core. I was going to use 6mm dyneema, so what would be the diameter of rope that includes the outer braid. Many thanks, Oz.
Hello Oz, We advise you to get proper advice on Dyneema rigging. It has a number of advantages, but certainly also a number of considerations to take into account. Standard Dyneema ropes are generally not suitable. At the very least, you need ropes developed for it. Feel free to call our head office if you want more advice.
@@Premiumropes Hi premium ropes, thank you for your reply. I've tried to get as much information as i can on Dyneema, and i think your advice is correct, i have to do a lot more research and thinking on the subject. Best regards, Oz.
Thank you great method! But following your instructions I often end up with too much slack in the cover, which makes the eye smaller than what it should be at the end..maybe pulling 10 cm of core out at the begin is too much? Thank you for your help!
Hi Andre. That can indeed depend on the diameter of the rope and the initial slack. In this video we do not take any slack before we start taking out the core. Once the eyesplice is at the desired length you can take the slack to the end of the line. And then put some tension on the splice with a winch to tighten the splice.
Trying to do this with Samson warpspeed II. Can't get the cover to milk over the splice at the end? Seems like the cover is woven too tightly. Any suggestions?
Not really familiar with that specific rope. But increase the amount of cm (core) which you pull out at 1:40. This creates more overlenght in the rope for splicing. The exact amount of cm can vary from brand and type of rope.
My line is 4mm but I can not get the core out of the side of it. The case is braided ultra tight. It will not open as easily as is shown here, there is not that much slack between the core and casing on the dyneema cored line I bought. Looks like I am going to have to tie a tidy knot somehow in this stuff. Bummed.Maybe my line is only 3 mm? CAN that be spliced??
The Samson Ropes spicing videos are kind of spooky with only music and no voice. These ones even more so. That said, I would be lost in Dutch or German!
We advise to still use at least 60x the diameter of the rope to determine point A. The additional length for splicing should indeed be doubled. Make this at least 20cm.
@@Premiumropes is this the same for 16mm? I have two globe MK3 16mm ropes to put eyes in so any help with measurements greatly appreciated. Greats videos!
Hammering the core normally would do the trick. That's of course if there is enough space in between core and cover. Depending on the rope(brand) some times you need to take more(or less) lenght at the beginning of the splice.
Would this be suitable for Yale Beeline 8mm? thanks, I've just done a locking brummel but would like to maintain the core if possible for obvious reasons. Also, any benefit to adding a locking whip to this also?
This rope has a core of super fibers and the strength depends on the core. The core needs therefore be pulled back into itself sufficiently to safeguard the breaking load. For a 'normal double braid splice' I think you refer to a rope with a core of polyester. In that splice you need both core AND cover for strength.
No whipping is required for this splice. This is optional, but does not contribute to the strength. Only with loosely braided ropes we sometimes do this.
Great video, thanks! I've used this method to make several eyes in 8mm VPC and I keep having a recurring problem and I can't figure out where I'm going wrong. When I get to the very last part of burying all the core and finishing the eye, I end up with quite a bit of extra, bulky core bunched up in the loop where it's going into the cover and I have an extremely difficult time getting it all buried. Any thoughts where this extra slack in the core is coming from? This is at the phase in your video at about 0930 where you are milking the cover back up.
This depends on the space/ slack in the cover. To create extra slack move a few cm from point b 4:46. Furthermore keep tension on the loop/ core part when milking back in. and use a hammer like we do. Do not force this with a winch as you end up with a bulky part just below the loop.
Agree with the hammer technique. I had that bunch in endura braid and thought I'd never get it in. hammering the splice and short sharp jerks on the milking got it all in with no bulk below the loop.
Tried with 3mm and couldn’t get the last 4cm of core back inside the cover. It just tightens up and won’t go in, following every step to a tee.. disappointing. Anyone know what I can do?
Hi, thin ropes like the 3mm are more difficult. It also depends on the braiding (so manufacturer). Some thinner ropes are not ment for splicing. You can also splice it without cover, see th-cam.com/video/1CvlbC6kpQE/w-d-xo.html . It is just as strong, since core only takes the load for ropes with superfibre in the core. Or you can retry and taper evrything a bit more and stretch things out before you mill the cover back. Followed by: milk, hammer splice, milk hammer splice and use a winch for puling the last 2 cm. This normally works! Our 3mm S Cup can be spliced with cover for sure. Good luck!
Thanks a lot, I'll be doing this job to a 10mm sk-75-core rope with poly cover later tonight... I guess the 10cm you take out at 1:41 is good enough or should I take a couple more cm?
Jan-Willem has sailed the Atlantic and the Caribbean extensively but he is self taught. He has send his kids to sailing school to prevent them making the same mistake. ;)
so two problems i notice in real world situations, #1 taking the core out of the cover is never ever ever that simple or fast, it always usually ends up a mangled mess and takes about 30 minutes to an hour to actually pull out. # two, pulling the joint into the cover is never ever ever that easy or fast, or sometimes even possible; it's 3 layers too thick to get through the original hole you pulled the core out of, it usually requires about an hour of pounding and/or getting two people to pull it or getting it on a winch to pull. Nice video, but doesn't address real world issues. Obviously you did it here, but for whatever reason it doesn't work in the real world.
My experience says it’s about the rope brand and model. Some covers make it impossible, and some are easier than others. Use only brand new lines and check how the cover is plaited.
Just followed this to the letter.. wasted a good quality piece of rope, $30 on the rope, and two hours of my time trying to get this to go. Its a damn shame "rigging doctor" doesn't have a video doing this. His world be way better. I just got done doing an integrated soft shackle for my genoa and that was 1000% easier..
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UpkqJ4GRfSg/mqdefault.jpg)
Good Morning Premium Ropes. I just did my first eye splice in 4mm double braided spectra and pollyester last night. Pretty impressed with how it turned out. Thanks for these awesome videos. I'm just wondering, have you ever heard of anyone splicing double braided to bungee cord? Is it possible? Or an eyesplice?
Good to hear that you liked our videos and it turned out good! Splicing to shock cord (bungee cord) is not possible. We use very nice shock cord clamps! We do sometimes splice shock cord into double braided ropes. If you're interested in that, please send us an email on info@premiumropes.com!
To ensure full use of the core & shell strength, it is important to temporarily pin or knot the rope about a yard back, so you can avoid stretching the core or shell. Some measurements, & rope thicknesses would be helpful.
There is a measurement guidance in the begining which refers to 60x the diameter.
Good video. Voice over would make it even better!
If you wanted to put a thimble in the eye, when would be the best time to attach the thimble so it stays in?
Just before closing the eye. This will be around 9;21 min.
@@Premiumropes thank you!
Thank you for the great tutorial. It works very well, but the buried core makes the rope quite a bit thicker, potentially causing issues when the splice is close to a block. I tried this is for the mainsheet traveller, and the rope was all of a sudden too thick and stiff for the sheave. I'm wondering whether a bowline is preferable in this case.
Is there any benefit to whipping this splice? Will it help or hurt it’s integrity? I just did this splice with a Tylaska shackle on 7/16 Samson Warpspeed
You could make a whipping. But it's not really necessary
Hello. Great tutorial thanks for it 🙏🏻 Is there any difference between 32 plaited cover or 24 plaited cover and 12 plaited core or 16 plaited core?
The technique will be the same. But a 32-plait cover can be more comapct and difficult.
so can you apply to swing - nest? Can withstand the load?
Thanks for this video, it is excellent. I want to splice VPC for halyard, do you have another video where the buried portion is not as thick to enable smooth movement on masthead sheave?
Hi, to keep the diameter small for halyards sheaves you could use a eyesplice without cover or replace the last part of the cover for a Dyneema Cover.
@@Premiumropes thanks for replying, eyesplice without cover sounds good, in that case how do I terminate the cover?
@@darshanpatel5932 We have made a video for that. You can find it here th-cam.com/video/1CvlbC6kpQE/w-d-xo.html
That’s perfect, thanks a lot
Great video! When you take out the extra approx. 5cm of core to make more space in the cover, howcome you don't trim this extra core off the tail?
The rope becomes thicker when splicing. This is why you need the extra cover
Thanks for the video.
My question is, how much breaking strength do we lost with this splicing method ?
If you do a good splice, it will remain above 90%
1:40 Does the amount of core to pull out vary by rope diameter? I have some of your 5mm rope to splice, which looks a bit smaller than the rope you're working on here. Should I pull out a little bit less?
Yes that's correct! You can play a bit with the amount of rope you pull out to find the correct amount of space!
That is so neat !
Thank you! More new video's to come soon!
Gostaria de obter resutados em portugues
Hi premium ropes, i am thinking of replacing the stainless steel standing rigging on my boat with dynema. Will it be o.k. to use double braided rope with dynema core for this job? My thinking is that the outer braid will offer a bit of protection to the dyneema core. I was going to use 6mm dyneema, so what would be the diameter of rope that includes the outer braid. Many thanks, Oz.
Hello Oz,
We advise you to get proper advice on Dyneema rigging. It has a number of advantages, but certainly also a number of considerations to take into account. Standard Dyneema ropes are generally not suitable. At the very least, you need ropes developed for it. Feel free to call our head office if you want more advice.
@@Premiumropes Hi premium ropes, thank you for your reply. I've tried to get as much information as i can on Dyneema, and i think your advice is correct, i have to do a lot more research and thinking on the subject. Best regards, Oz.
Hi, would this be considered a class two double braid splice?
The technique is similar. These splicing classes are specific for Samson
Thank you great method! But following your instructions I often end up with too much slack in the cover, which makes the eye smaller than what it should be at the end..maybe pulling 10 cm of core out at the begin is too much? Thank you for your help!
Hi Andre. That can indeed depend on the diameter of the rope and the initial slack. In this video we do not take any slack before we start taking out the core. Once the eyesplice is at the desired length you can take the slack to the end of the line. And then put some tension on the splice with a winch to tighten the splice.
Ok thank you very much for your reply;)
I realize I am quite off topic but do anyone know of a good place to stream new movies online?
@Aaron Valentino I would suggest flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Allen Jaime Definitely, I have been watching on flixzone for since march myself :D
Trying to do this with Samson warpspeed II. Can't get the cover to milk over the splice at the end? Seems like the cover is woven too tightly. Any suggestions?
Not really familiar with that specific rope. But increase the amount of cm (core) which you pull out at 1:40. This creates more overlenght in the rope for splicing. The exact amount of cm can vary from brand and type of rope.
Wow! I think I ‘ll just use a bowline instead, that was a bit too convoluted a process to go through just to get a little loop on an end of a line!
My line is 4mm but I can not get the core out of the side of it. The case is braided ultra tight. It will not open as easily as is shown here, there is not that much slack between the core and casing on the dyneema cored line I bought. Looks like I am going to have to tie a tidy knot somehow in this stuff. Bummed.Maybe my line is only 3 mm? CAN that be spliced??
Not all ropes can be spliced. This can be different for each type of rope and brand.
did you put a knot in the line before you started?
yes we do
The Samson Ropes spicing videos are kind of spooky with only music and no voice. These ones even more so. That said, I would be lost in Dutch or German!
Does this splice require a lock stitch once it is completed?
This isn’t necessary. The splice is strong enough
I have 22 mm covered dymeema I want to put this splice in. Would I have to double up the measurements?
We advise to still use at least 60x the diameter of the rope to determine point A. The additional length for splicing should indeed be doubled. Make this at least 20cm.
@@Premiumropes is this the same for 16mm? I have two globe MK3 16mm ropes to put eyes in so any help with measurements greatly appreciated. Greats videos!
I liked your old video a little better what happened to it?
Hammering so far has not enabled me to bury the core. What about wetting the splice?
Hammering the core normally would do the trick. That's of course if there is enough space in between core and cover. Depending on the rope(brand) some times you need to take more(or less) lenght at the beginning of the splice.
Would this be suitable for Yale Beeline 8mm? thanks, I've just done a locking brummel but would like to maintain the core if possible for obvious reasons. Also, any benefit to adding a locking whip to this also?
Depends what kind of core the Yale line has. If it's a Dyneema/Core it would be possible
@@Premiumropes it's a 100% vectran core so I guess so
Halat ucundaki kasa (halkası) daha büyük olabilirmi
Çok güzel oldu
Thank you! You can choose how large the loop needs to be, just adjust point A and B.
Great Video, how come you don't just do a normal double braid splice? Is there a particular reason?
This rope has a core of super fibers and the strength depends on the core. The core needs therefore be pulled back into itself sufficiently to safeguard the breaking load.
For a 'normal double braid splice' I think you refer to a rope with a core of polyester. In that splice you need both core AND cover for strength.
Premium Ropes That makes sense. Thanks. Will give it a try...
@@Premiumropes But this one seems a bit more complicated, no?
Как эти спицы называются и где их можно преобрести?
You can find them on our website
www.premiumropes.com/splicing-rope/splicing-tools
Can someone explain to me why the thread was not tied?
No whipping is required for this splice. This is optional, but does not contribute to the strength. Only with loosely braided ropes we sometimes do this.
Does this work for marlow’s D2 product?
Great video, thanks! I've used this method to make several eyes in 8mm VPC and I keep having a recurring problem and I can't figure out where I'm going wrong. When I get to the very last part of burying all the core and finishing the eye, I end up with quite a bit of extra, bulky core bunched up in the loop where it's going into the cover and I have an extremely difficult time getting it all buried. Any thoughts where this extra slack in the core is coming from? This is at the phase in your video at about 0930 where you are milking the cover back up.
This depends on the space/ slack in the cover. To create extra slack move a few cm from point b 4:46. Furthermore keep tension on the loop/ core part when milking back in. and use a hammer like we do. Do not force this with a winch as you end up with a bulky part just below the loop.
Agree with the hammer technique. I had that bunch in endura braid and thought I'd never get it in. hammering the splice and short sharp jerks on the milking got it all in with no bulk below the loop.
Tried with 3mm and couldn’t get the last 4cm of core back inside the cover. It just tightens up and won’t go in, following every step to a tee.. disappointing. Anyone know what I can do?
Does it need to be a certain type of braided cover that has certain stretch properties?
Hi, thin ropes like the 3mm are more difficult. It also depends on the braiding (so manufacturer). Some thinner ropes are not ment for splicing. You can also splice it without cover, see th-cam.com/video/1CvlbC6kpQE/w-d-xo.html . It is just as strong, since core only takes the load for ropes with superfibre in the core. Or you can retry and taper evrything a bit more and stretch things out before you mill the cover back. Followed by: milk, hammer splice, milk hammer splice and use a winch for puling the last 2 cm. This normally works! Our 3mm S Cup can be spliced with cover for sure. Good luck!
И сколько она выдержит на разрыв?
When the eye-splice is done properly, you maintain 85-90% of the rope's breaking strength.
What's the diameter of the line in the video? Thanks a lot!
This is a D-Cup 6mm
Thanks a lot, I'll be doing this job to a 10mm sk-75-core rope with poly cover later tonight... I guess the 10cm you take out at 1:41 is good enough or should I take a couple more cm?
10cm should be fine. Take out 5-10cm after you have cut of the end. Before marking A and B to create some extra slack in the cover.
Thanks a million!
Great video, very informative; rather disappointed the hitch around the cleat was done incorrectly.
Jan-Willem has sailed the Atlantic and the Caribbean extensively but he is self taught. He has send his kids to sailing school to prevent them making the same mistake. ;)
so two problems i notice in real world situations, #1 taking the core out of the cover is never ever ever that simple or fast, it always usually ends up a mangled mess and takes about 30 minutes to an hour to actually pull out. # two, pulling the joint into the cover is never ever ever that easy or fast, or sometimes even possible; it's 3 layers too thick to get through the original hole you pulled the core out of, it usually requires about an hour of pounding and/or getting two people to pull it or getting it on a winch to pull. Nice video, but doesn't address real world issues. Obviously you did it here, but for whatever reason it doesn't work in the real world.
My experience says it’s about the rope brand and model. Some covers make it impossible, and some are easier than others. Use only brand new lines and check how the cover is plaited.
Just followed this to the letter.. wasted a good quality piece of rope, $30 on the rope, and two hours of my time trying to get this to go. Its a damn shame "rigging doctor" doesn't have a video doing this. His world be way better. I just got done doing an integrated soft shackle for my genoa and that was 1000% easier..
"Hollow" single-braid line is vastly easier to splice than this type of eye splice in double-braid.
L