Thanks to your video I was able to redo the eye splice for my 3/4'' dyneema (7200ft )rope from my 45 000 pound puller on my construction site. Thanks again
Fantastic! I do parachute repair for a living and we use eye splices at the ends of the lines(1/4" braided nylon, not Dyneema...or 550 paracord for these parachutes). I noticed years ago that there was a weak spot at the end of the tail, lots of snapped lines there. I started cutting back half the cords about 1-1/2 to 2 inches to create the same tapered effect and some of my coworkers don't really understand the concept when I explain it. They are about to watch this video LOL. Thanks for the validation!!!
A handy trick: When you taper the bury at the end, if you start pulling yarns out from the bitter end instead of the standing part first, the rope won't fall apart as quickly or easily. It also help make it clearer which yarn is the next one to pull out. Thanks for making al your videos and keep it up!
I thought I wasn't going to learn anything today! Now I have found and learned the correct way to tie these splices! Thank You for the lesson, you are a great teacher. Now I just need to find the rope I bought and get busy!
08:15 While pushing the fid thru, you want equal number of strands on both sides of the fid, to ensure the lock is equally strong on all sides. 12-braid so count 6 strands on each side of the pushed through fid.
If I ever need to do Dyneema rigging I will look back on this video. I probably won't be at the decision point for a few years yet. Certainly a very informative video and I certainly support its creation.
This is perfect. I have been trying to get a handle on how to splice dyneema rope for a line of dog leashes I am developing. Thank you very much for the clear and detailed tutorial.
Thank you so much for thus great tutorial! Being an "old" guy, i cut my teeth "pun intended Doctor" .. on 3 strand line. this seems not only quicker but looks much neater. You have a great TH-cam site.
This is the one I want to practice till I get as good as the Rigging Doctor... Ok, well, maybe in several years, but for now I just want to do this one splice. I have LOTS of plans for its use, and this video makes it look so easy... Course, typical, I've left the figs and rope at my parents so can't practice tonight, instead I'm doing chores...
I just experimented with these splices on double braid dyneema (with cover), including the Mobius Brummell Lock, it’s more complicated but comes out ok. The trick is to get everything very tight, and then to be gentle getting the splice into the cover at the end. I then finished with self- amalgamating tape to tidy up and protect at bit. I also use covered line for the lashing, so everything important is out of the UV. I’m in the subtropics so the sun is brutal in summer.
Thnk you for the great tutorial, I've done lots of multi strand but never Dynema im going to give it a shot it seems a bit easier to me ss long as I follow your instructions.
Very good tutorial. I have done the brummel eye splice on 3mm spectra hollow core braid for hang gliding tow bridles. Each pilot has to have their own bridle rope because one end stays attached to the pilot or glider after releasing from the tow line at altitude. It's used for both aero-tow or truck-tow to altitude. I taper the end with even cut-offs as you did. The problem is that the ends of the inner fibers of the tapered tail work their way out between the braid of outer braid. I suspect that this is because in this application, the splice is put under load and then unloaded over and over again. The eye splice is held under load while towing on a spinnaker release shackle. The pilot trips the release on the shackle when the towing pilot waves you off or when the truck runs out of road length. The bridle slips out through an aluminum ring that is on the end of the tow rope. That eye splice then flaps in the wind behind the hang glider unless the pilot gathers it in. So, the load/unload cycling and the loose flaping in the wind let the inner fibers come out through the outer braid. It makes the bridle look frizzy and frayed along the length of the taper. The strength is not lessened by the inner fiber ends escaping. If anything, when loaded, the tightening of the outer braid on loading grips the inner fibers better. It looks like crap though and makes some people think the bridle is no good. Someone in these comments mentioned covering the taper section with self-amalgamating tape. That would be better than heat shrink. I had though about using heat shrink tubing on just the inner taper before milking it back into the outer braid. Self-amalgamating tape on the outside would probably be a better idea. You can get splicing PDF instructions for all types of rope and types of splices (eye or end-to-end) from Sampson Rope at: samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope The 12 strand brummel eye splice is at: www.samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/splice-instructions/12strand_c2_whoopie_sling_amsteel_amsteel-blue_web.pdf?sfvrsn=ae4d2872_2 They show the inner taper as only a angled cut. I think the longer taper like you did is better. I learned the brummel eye splice from a downloaded PDF over 20 years ago. The combination of having a PDF instruction sheet and seeing it done "real-time" in your video should make it a breeze to learn. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! I still haven’t experimented with tapes on the taper. The instructions from Samson with the angle cut is a nice gesture but it’s just not fair enough for a high load application.
@@RiggingDoctor I agree. Have you ever had problems with fiber ends from the long tapered inner tail work their way out through the outer braid strands? For standing rigging on keel boats that are not trailerable, the rigging would be under some positive load all the time. Any trailerable sailboat would have the standing rigging and mast taken down to trailer it on roadways. Maybe self-almagating tape would prevent the inner fibers sticking out and looking terrible. My dinghy sailboats have stainless steel wire rope (aircraft cable) for standing rigging. Spectra and Dyneema are the same general type of plastic (UHMWPE). Their production methods differ and therefore have slightly different characteristics. Both fibers make low stretch ropes with Spectra about half as much stretch as Dyneema. Dyneema has a higher load rating for the same size rope and better wear resistance. So there are pros and cons to using one over the other. Kite-boarders like the small diameter Spectra rope made with an inner core of Spectra and a tight 90 degree Spectra braided sheath. The tight braid keeps even very fine sand away from the inner core. The inner core makes it harder to do a Brummel eye splice. I do not know if you could even do a Brummel eye splice on these lines because of the very tight braid. Some small diameter Spectra lines are pre-streched because Spectra has lower stretch than Dyneema, but creeps to a longer length over time and high load. It's personal preference. Both are about 33% stronger than Kevlar.
Ive done Dynema dead eyes, I haven't used them yet but I've done them for splicing practice. I eventually plan on doing all of my standing rigging in dynema
Phew, thanks for the tutorial! just did this in 2021 with my 3/4 inch recovery rope after it snapped when I let a stuck guy tie it up to his truck himself. He gave me $100 for the rope even though I told him I’d splice it and only loose like 6 feet. I also just used the biggest knitting needle I could find ($10) and it worked perfectly
Beautiful video, very simple and straight forward, I’ll be trying this splice in the future. As a Captain since 1992 I’ve never heard of anyone cutting someone’s rigging as revenge. Personally I’d just pull the cap shroud cotter pin between the turnbuckle and chain plate. Maybe consider revising that story so no knuckle heads get any ideas.
I think people on the water are generally nicer and won’t actually come sabotage someone else’s boat; but that doesn’t mean we won’t talk a mean story 🤣
Great "how to" video. I love all your "how to" videos. I have used this brummel eye splice technique on many hollow braid lines. I have some 3mm spectra hollow core line that I have made hang gliding tow ropes and bridles with. The problem I have had is that with continuous load/unload cycles, the cut, tapered fibers start working their way out between the braids of the outer layer that the tail is buried into. This makes the rope look like it is growing hairs or that the main outer braid is fraying. Have you experienced this with Dyneema? I don't think it would be a problem with standing rigging. It is the multiple load/unload (unload with bending and flexing) that, I think, causes the problem. Some suggested solution I have seen are to encapsulate the taper in heat shrink or self-almagamating electrical tape. I am weary of the heat shrink idea because I do not want to apply heat to the rope fibers.
The heat to shrink the tubing will be hot enough to degrade the fibers so I would stay away from that. I haven’t seen this issue on the standing rigging, but it never flexes, it only sees loading and unloading (windward vs leeward shrouds). The running rigging I have done with Dyneema also hasn’t shown this issue and that gets worked around a good bit. Sadly I’m having trouble coming up with a solution to your hair issue and the best that I have is to stick a D-splicer (or looped wire which is what I use since D-splicers are too expensive) from the line back towards the splice and basically try to pull the little frays back into the outer housing of the splice. The other option is to trim them off as they aren’t really that detrimental to the strength of the splice. I wonder if the Spectra vs Dyneema brands have this phenomenon where one grows little hairs where the other one doesn’t?
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks, this 3mm Spectra is, I think, an 8 braid hollow core. It would be harder to have a 12 braid result in a 3mm diameter. Maybe the 12 braid doesn't let the cut-off tapered ends work their way out between the braids, but the 8 braid does. On a bridle line, once you release from the areo-tow or ground truck tow, one end of the bridle line is just flapping in the wind while you are flying. That whipping around motion really gives the inner taper ends a chance to find a way out through the outer braids. The difference in construction (8 braid vs 12 braid) and the application situation are probably the combined factors that make the problem appear.
Ditching the steel hook on the winch that's building our future. Less steel equals better. Rarely will any projectiles be attached now. Thanks. I like your method and video best.
Excellent demo. Q. Needing to know... Would I be able to upgrade an existing eye loop( with latchhook) on a vehicle winch line without needing to cut off the existing braiding and not starting it afresh as you demonstrated?
I have been using dyneema for fishing for over 15+ years, Under the trade name Power Pro fishing line great stuff and handles UV light very well. STRONGER than steel believe it or not.
Thanks just what I needed to make my decision between wire rope and synthetic for my work shed ramp lift winch. Would this be okay to use if I needed to splice two pieces of line together? Liked and subbed.
Splicing two lines together is very similar and has all the strength properties of this splice. Here is the video on how to do that splice: Dyneema End to End Splice [How to] | Sailing Wisdom th-cam.com/video/ETvUcxxM5ow/w-d-xo.html
you earned a sub.. i was about to do a video on this because i bought a synthetic rope for my winch that was too long.. and the factory rope had that fancy loop you did.. i was watching videos and they all used the string.. i knew the string was a bad idea from first sight.. maybe ill do a video without the fids because i just have to do 3 of them
Your comment about thread at about 6:20 in the video sounds like obvious common sense, but it is not correct. Locking a splice with thread has some disadvantages, but strength is not one of them. Consider the following experiment I did some years ago with 6 mm Dyneema. Using 2 pieces of Dyneema, bury one in the other as you would for an eye splice, leaving plenty of rope on either side of the bury. Support the cover (standing part) above the bury, and hang a weight from the bury part below the splice. As expected, the bury pulls right out. I repeated this experiment after placing 3 stitches at the throat of the splice using 2 lb. test sewing thread. It now took 100 lb to pull out the bury. A modest amount of stitching at the throat provides a splice with full strength.
If it’s a simple splice that will not have too much work, I taper the end of the 72x. If it’s going to be used in an important high stress place, I do the full 72x and then taper the extra length beyond that. For the standing rigging, I needed to bury about 2 feet, but buried about 6 feet and tapered the last 4 feet of the bury.
Well I’m trying to learn to splice lines I found some older double braid that has been used on my small sailboat that I bought recently. Using older line verse new line does it matter when learning how to splice.
@@RiggingDoctor definitely stiff for sure but I found one of the lines was a double braid so I pulled the core and things were much smoother for me but just like everything else. Experience
OMG Done a bunch of splices over the decades with my old Sampson fid kit ( pouch now held together with duct tape) but I had no idea what the pusher ice pick thingy did. I just now used it first time as per your directions durning some dynema splices and it worked like a charm. I might be able to hook you up with a week of free dock in Marathon Fl Oceanside 8 ‘ deep. When you get closer I’ll remind you if interested.
Mate,it is always a massive balance but you will be able to follow it through .I want to see you finish her but I, of all people know where you are at with this build.Rossco
this is great, have used it a handful of times but what if the working end also has a shackle on it? How do you have two ends that eyes with metal hardware??
It can be done but you will need to have two free ends available and if it’s a long piece, then you will have to pass that very long tail through one of the passes.
Thanks for that great tip! I had got my hands on a large amount of 5/16" Kevlar line that I use for camping, hammocks, etc. Since I can't burn the ends to keep them from fraying I found using 3-1 glued heat-shrink tubing a good way to seal the ends. I leave the tubing an 1/8" or so longer than the rope end and it shrinks down to a nice blunt point. This has worked well for me, but I am no pro, I wonder if you have a better method of doing this?
Fantastic video, well done. Boat builders and riggers I've met still seem to have a negative regard for Dyneema - rod rigging preferable and so on. Not sure how good Dyneema is with UV - the big issue, but it certainly won't crack or oxidize, and a fraction of the weight... Looked at carbon standing rigging the other day but it was worse than a baby in terms of how you had to look after it. What's the best?
As of now, there is no best. Metal cracks and corrodes. Dyneema is fine with UV but stretches. Carbon is too delicate. PBO can’t have any light. Pick your poison! An alternative is to go junk rig and have no standing rigging.
The hum is due to the rigging being under tension, it’s like a guitar string. No matter what you cover it with, it will hum. The best thing you can do is tie a line to it and lead it away at a different angle. The line needs to be tight (but not rigging tight). This will break up the stay and hopefully dampen the hum.
As for the thimble, I just squeeze it in there. It can be a tight squeeze if you made it a small eye, but with some effort it will squeeze in there. The other option is to make the eye bigger than needed and tie a flat seizing knot to close the throat around the thimble. If you ever need to replace the thimble in the future it will be much easier
If you are using Amsteel by Samson don’t forget to downgrade braking strength by 30%, lock stitching is only keeping the bury in place and nylon twine is used so the softer fibers do not damage the Dyneema fibers. I agree with you I like the way the Brummel locks as long as you can afford to downgrade you are good
The 30% down grade is based on destructive testing by independent labs of the splice you recommended. No I did not do the tests myself only viewed statements on manufacturers website so take it for what it is@@AaronBrand
Thanks matey. I have a Farrier F22 with Dyneema lines for the rigging and halyards, I'm the type of guy who likes to do things myself and I wanted to know how my lines were spliced so well by my rigger. This video spells it out perfectly and thanks for sharing your knowledge. One thing I would like to know is the best way to create a jib raising system using a KZ furler system?
I have a question, but first I really appreciate your video, it is really well explained! My question is what do I do if I have a core, but it's not a braided core. I've been looking all over TH-cam, and I'm just struggling to know what to do with my core. There's plenty of really good tutorials on double braided ropes, but I have a cheap polypropylene rope, and it has a core, but it's just a filler. Can someone please point me in the direction of an answer? I have done a decent amount of splicing, with other ropes and I know I could just pull out the core, and do it like this video, but taking out the core makes the eye thin and weaker. So I'd rather not do that. The other thing I've thought of is just leaving the core in and ignoring it, but then I couldn't have my buried end in the middle of the working end as the core is in the way, and the Chinese finger trap principal would be less effective. Those are the only easy thing I've come up with...
@@RiggingDoctor Thank you for your advice the Bowline is one of my favorite go-to knots, in this case since I'm wanting to permanently secure it to a tarp as a tie down, I just thought a splice would look nice and help my cheap rope last longer. Thanks for taking time to answer my question!
Great trick! Much easier than pulling though my 1000' tail! I'm doing this splice on a 1/4", 8 strand polypropylene rope. How long must the bury be to maintain full strength? Still 72 diameter? Thanks! (SGT knots poly rope.)
Poly rope eye splice is a class 1 splice, so you can get away with much less buried. The minimum to bury is 42x the diameter. To be safe though, I would do a bit more than 42x but you don’t have to run to the extreme of 72x.
As usual I at least once a month come back to your video just to make sure I'm doing the right thing. hehehehehe This time is for something more serious. We are replacing our stainless steel steering wire for a 6mm dynnema line. For this porpoise 6mm is more then enough right? It supposedly holds 4 tonnes, and the 6 mm wire I had holds 2 tones. The one question I have is about how many times should I berry on this purpose, should I do 72 x the diameter? or less could I berry less? The problem is the thickness that increases and I'm not sure if it will fit in the quadrant. One more time thanks a lot for the videos, they help a lot!! Duca.
6mm is the size to replace the 1/4” steering cables. The Dyneema needs to fit in the groove of the quadrant and through the shivs. Dyneema works in the application, but you might want to consider using Vectran instead. It has less creep as compared to Dyneema, but it does have some other weaknesses. Vectran doesn’t like salt (I know, a great feature on a saltwater boat). It also degrades quickly in UV but that’s not a problem for steering cables. Vectran can’t get salty, Dyneema will stretch a bit. The splice needs to be ridiculously long, which is why a knot might be a better choice. The splice will make the line too thick to pass through shivs so if the spliced parts are too close to anything that is size dependent, a splice would not work. The knot of choice would be a “halyard knot”. It’s a very strong knot that will tighten as it is loaded. This knot is a permanent knot and you will not be able to untie it, you will have to cut it off once it’s been loaded. While I love Dyneema for all sorts of applications, I personally use 7x19 Galvanized Steel wire with three wire rope clips per end instead of a splice or knot.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks so much for all the information, I will check if it is possible to find Vectran in Brazil, and will also look for the Halyard knot as it will help a lot in order to "save diameter". Oh and the idea is to pre tension the splice or knot to avoid too much stretch. I like the dynnema as we have alluminium blocks on the system, 8 of them and I don't really like the alluminum friction with the stailess cables. And in the future I think about replacing them all to regular sailing blocks that it is much easier to have spars and to replace when necessary. One more time thanks a lot!!
www.netknots.com/application/files/2415/3690/5228/halyard-hitch.jpg If you can’t find Vectran there, I could always get it for you here and mail it to you.
Do eye splices like this benefit at all from the use of a thimble? Are thimbles bad for use with fibre ropes? I’m looking to make a rope bridge and I need a secure way to make eye splices that I can connect shackles and turnbuckles to. I’d feel better about the friction point in the eye by protecting it with a thimble. (I’m a total amateur though and don’t know any better)
Thimbles are a must for the eye when they are loaded. It keeps the turn in the eye more open as tight bends will cause the fibers to stress and break. Thimble is a great addition to your system.
What’s a good way to reinforce the eye? Can I put a galvanized piece of steel in there? I remember reading (or hearing on TH-cam) that abrasion where there are connections can be a problem.
I use stainless steel thimbles because they are pretty but you can use a galvanized thimble for a little cheaper. The stainless ones are smoother so they will have no chafe issues while the galvanized are rougher and will lead to eventual issues in the long run. Abrasion is the issue so anything you can do to minimize it will make it all last longer.
Came here by accident , great video. You ask for uses? One use springs to mind, what a great bike lock you could make using this. .Thieves swiftly clip chains etc off with bolt cutters or brute force, that won't work on a tether made like this, nor will cutting it be an option by the looks of it. A secure bike chain that you can carry in your pocket? It's a thought. Thanks.
I’ve actually done this! My bike lock rusted to death and I needed a lock so I made one out of a scrap piece of Dyneema. The other nice thing is it doesn’t scratch the paint. As all bike locks are just deterrents, as they can all be destroyed with enough time, this can be cut by a really really sharp knife. I wouldn’t leave my bike overnight outside with this, but for a quick meal at a pub, it worked great!
@@RiggingDoctor Cool, I was thinking that threading a steel cable down the length would make cutting impossible, around here it's a quick boltcutter or brute force job normally. The pub, exactly my thought too. Thanks for the video, it made me thing and I'll watch some more :)
Is the splicing procedure the same for spectra/vectran line? Could you do a video on splicing these synthetics with a polyester cover , aka sheath , which gives excellent uv and chafe resistance? Could you talk about the differences between dyneema creep and vectran static after constructional stretch? Sorry, lots of questions here. Am planning a build with synthetic and would like to know your thoughts. Great videos! Keep them coming!
Dyneema, spectra, and vectran are all brand names for the same type of rope (UHMWPE: ultra high molecular weight polyethylene). The normal looking splice which in the end looks like a regular double braid eye splice works on the long bury eye splice. I will be doing a video on doing a high tech eye splice with double braid where it has the mobius brummel lock in it. Stay tuned for it!
Creep is the permanent elongation over time. Constructional stretch is when the weave stretches out after a splice. Basically, the way it stretched when I milked the bury back into the rope, but even more once it is fully loaded.
The blog has a bunch of information on how to build your own synthetic standing rigging (www.riggingdoctor.com). You can also email me any questions and I can help guide you through the process (riggingdr@gmail.com)
Thank you for the clarifications. You weren't kidding when you said you read the comments. I've been so busy enjoying your 4k videos (wink) i totally forgot about your blog! Love your videos, best to you and yours, Steve from lake superior.
![Double Braid Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom [How to]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kNuhAVVzNd0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks to your video I was able to redo the eye splice for my 3/4'' dyneema (7200ft )rope from my 45 000 pound puller on my construction site. Thanks again
So glad to read this!
Literally same here
Most useful thing You tube has ever chucked at me in the middle of the night.
I can't stress just how helpful this video is. thank you
Thank you! You are a gifted instructor. I’ve learned a lot from your channel. God bless you guys.
I second that!
Fantastic! I do parachute repair for a living and we use eye splices at the ends of the lines(1/4" braided nylon, not Dyneema...or 550 paracord for these parachutes). I noticed years ago that there was a weak spot at the end of the tail, lots of snapped lines there. I started cutting back half the cords about 1-1/2 to 2 inches to create the same tapered effect and some of my coworkers don't really understand the concept when I explain it. They are about to watch this video LOL. Thanks for the validation!!!
Glad it will help you explain taper your your coworkers :)
alinds68: as a former Army paratrooper and Army Ranger, I very much appreciate your attention to detail. THANK YOU!
A handy trick: When you taper the bury at the end, if you start pulling yarns out from the bitter end instead of the standing part first, the rope won't fall apart as quickly or easily. It also help make it clearer which yarn is the next one to pull out.
Thanks for making al your videos and keep it up!
I’ll give that a try next time!
I have looken at alot of different ways to make a dyneema eye splice. This is by far the easiest way to do it. Thx alot!
I thought I wasn't going to learn anything today! Now I have found and learned the correct way to tie these splices! Thank You for the lesson, you are a great teacher. Now I just need to find the rope I bought and get busy!
By far the best demo of a Duneema eye splice I have seen.
Brilliant, I was always scared of splicing this but not anymore.
It’s honestly the easiest stuff to splice once you get the knack of it.
Between this and the lockpicking lawyer, the nerdy genius is fantastic!
Thanks
08:15 While pushing the fid thru, you want equal number of strands on both sides of the fid, to ensure the lock is equally strong on all sides. 12-braid so count 6 strands on each side of the pushed through fid.
Very true, otherwise it will be a weak lock!
I'm building a Lazy Jack right now, so a whole bunch of eye splices in very small Dyneema, several with rings in the eye. Great learning experience.
That’s a great way to get a ton of practice!
If I ever need to do Dyneema rigging I will look back on this video. I probably won't be at the decision point for a few years yet. Certainly a very informative video and I certainly support its creation.
Just shoot me an email when you are ready and I can walk you through the whole process 😉
This is perfect. I have been trying to get a handle on how to splice dyneema rope for a line of dog leashes I am developing. Thank you very much for the clear and detailed tutorial.
Those will be indestructible leashes!
I would love to see them when you get them finished.
Thank you so much for thus great tutorial! Being an "old" guy, i cut my teeth "pun intended Doctor" .. on 3 strand line. this seems not only quicker but looks much neater. You have a great TH-cam site.
That's the same splice we used mushing for the tug lines hooking the dogs to the mainline. Cool.
That explained my loop failure. I've redone my loop with your second "knot". Seems to be a lot stronger now. Thanks
Best I've watched yet. You've made it simple
👍 Thanks!
This is the one I want to practice till I get as good as the Rigging Doctor... Ok, well, maybe in several years, but for now I just want to do this one splice. I have LOTS of plans for its use, and this video makes it look so easy... Course, typical, I've left the figs and rope at my parents so can't practice tonight, instead I'm doing chores...
You got 3 likes from me. Making crossbow lines and looking for different splices and this is working perfectly. Much appreciated.
Thanks! I'm replacing all my running rigging with dyneena and this helps alot making eye splices
Glad to hear it!
I just experimented with these splices on double braid dyneema (with cover), including the Mobius Brummell Lock, it’s more complicated but comes out ok. The trick is to get everything very tight, and then to be gentle getting the splice into the cover at the end. I then finished with self- amalgamating tape to tidy up and protect at bit. I also use covered line for the lashing, so everything important is out of the UV. I’m in the subtropics so the sun is brutal in summer.
That will be the strongest double braid splice ever! 😎
Great demo. I always wondered how splicing was done and you've made it look a lot easier than I ever imagined to be. Thanks.
😎
Just spliced my first Dyneema line and it came out great ! Thanks for the awesome video!
Awesome!!
First time viewer, thanks to seeing you on this weeks Fair Isle episode. Thanks for the tutorial on splicing.
You are very welcome! We had a great time with them in Greece 👍
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Some much needed info as I move toward replacing my standing rig with dyneema. Thanks very much.
Thnk you for the great tutorial, I've done lots of multi strand but never Dynema im going to give it a shot it seems a bit easier to me ss long as I follow your instructions.
Thank you for explaining the proper math and technique
👍
Very good tutorial. I have done the brummel eye splice on 3mm spectra hollow core braid for hang gliding tow bridles. Each pilot has to have their own bridle rope because one end stays attached to the pilot or glider after releasing from the tow line at altitude. It's used for both aero-tow or truck-tow to altitude. I taper the end with even cut-offs as you did. The problem is that the ends of the inner fibers of the tapered tail work their way out between the braid of outer braid. I suspect that this is because in this application, the splice is put under load and then unloaded over and over again. The eye splice is held under load while towing on a spinnaker release shackle. The pilot trips the release on the shackle when the towing pilot waves you off or when the truck runs out of road length. The bridle slips out through an aluminum ring that is on the end of the tow rope. That eye splice then flaps in the wind behind the hang glider unless the pilot gathers it in. So, the load/unload cycling and the loose flaping in the wind let the inner fibers come out through the outer braid. It makes the bridle look frizzy and frayed along the length of the taper. The strength is not lessened by the inner fiber ends escaping. If anything, when loaded, the tightening of the outer braid on loading grips the inner fibers better. It looks like crap though and makes some people think the bridle is no good. Someone in these comments mentioned covering the taper section with self-amalgamating tape. That would be better than heat shrink. I had though about using heat shrink tubing on just the inner taper before milking it back into the outer braid. Self-amalgamating tape on the outside would probably be a better idea.
You can get splicing PDF instructions for all types of rope and types of splices (eye or end-to-end) from Sampson Rope at: samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope
The 12 strand brummel eye splice is at: www.samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/splice-instructions/12strand_c2_whoopie_sling_amsteel_amsteel-blue_web.pdf?sfvrsn=ae4d2872_2
They show the inner taper as only a angled cut. I think the longer taper like you did is better. I learned the brummel eye splice from a downloaded PDF over 20 years ago. The combination of having a PDF instruction sheet and seeing it done "real-time" in your video should make it a breeze to learn. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! I still haven’t experimented with tapes on the taper.
The instructions from Samson with the angle cut is a nice gesture but it’s just not fair enough for a high load application.
@@RiggingDoctor I agree. Have you ever had problems with fiber ends from the long tapered inner tail work their way out through the outer braid strands? For standing rigging on keel boats that are not trailerable, the rigging would be under some positive load all the time. Any trailerable sailboat would have the standing rigging and mast taken down to trailer it on roadways. Maybe self-almagating tape would prevent the inner fibers sticking out and looking terrible. My dinghy sailboats have stainless steel wire rope (aircraft cable) for standing rigging. Spectra and Dyneema are the same general type of plastic (UHMWPE). Their production methods differ and therefore have slightly different characteristics. Both fibers make low stretch ropes with Spectra about half as much stretch as Dyneema. Dyneema has a higher load rating for the same size rope and better wear resistance. So there are pros and cons to using one over the other. Kite-boarders like the small diameter Spectra rope made with an inner core of Spectra and a tight 90 degree Spectra braided sheath. The tight braid keeps even very fine sand away from the inner core. The inner core makes it harder to do a Brummel eye splice. I do not know if you could even do a Brummel eye splice on these lines because of the very tight braid. Some small diameter Spectra lines are pre-streched because Spectra has lower stretch than Dyneema, but creeps to a longer length over time and high load. It's personal preference. Both are about 33% stronger than Kevlar.
Ive done Dynema dead eyes, I haven't used them yet but I've done them for splicing practice. I eventually plan on doing all of my standing rigging in dynema
Ours is many years and thousands of miles old and still going strong!
Many thanks... I'm now about to start switching to synthetic rigging and your videos are extremely useful
You will love it! Ours is now 9 years old and still going strong
That was great . You are a great Dyneema knot teacher. I've learned so much from you. Thank You for sharing. I will share it too !
Thanks! 👍
I have never even spliced a rope but I love this video
Phew, thanks for the tutorial! just did this in 2021 with my 3/4 inch recovery rope after it snapped when I let a stuck guy tie it up to his truck himself. He gave me $100 for the rope even though I told him I’d splice it and only loose like 6 feet. I also just used the biggest knitting needle I could find ($10) and it worked perfectly
Glad it helped! Sounds like you just got paid $100 to do a splice ;-)
Nice. Thank you, just made an extension rope out of a winch line for my 4x4.
kudos that was a master class
I used this on the ATV winch line - seems to work great - thanks!
You’re welcome
Beautiful video, very simple and straight forward, I’ll be trying this splice in the future. As a Captain since 1992 I’ve never heard of anyone cutting someone’s rigging as revenge. Personally I’d just pull the cap shroud cotter pin between the turnbuckle and chain plate. Maybe consider revising that story so no knuckle heads get any ideas.
I think people on the water are generally nicer and won’t actually come sabotage someone else’s boat; but that doesn’t mean we won’t talk a mean story 🤣
Mind blown!
Master class splicing!
Thank you!
Great "how to" video. I love all your "how to" videos. I have used this brummel eye splice technique on many hollow braid lines. I have some 3mm spectra hollow core line that I have made hang gliding tow ropes and bridles with. The problem I have had is that with continuous load/unload cycles, the cut, tapered fibers start working their way out between the braids of the outer layer that the tail is buried into. This makes the rope look like it is growing hairs or that the main outer braid is fraying. Have you experienced this with Dyneema? I don't think it would be a problem with standing rigging. It is the multiple load/unload (unload with bending and flexing) that, I think, causes the problem. Some suggested solution I have seen are to encapsulate the taper in heat shrink or self-almagamating electrical tape. I am weary of the heat shrink idea because I do not want to apply heat to the rope fibers.
The heat to shrink the tubing will be hot enough to degrade the fibers so I would stay away from that.
I haven’t seen this issue on the standing rigging, but it never flexes, it only sees loading and unloading (windward vs leeward shrouds). The running rigging I have done with Dyneema also hasn’t shown this issue and that gets worked around a good bit.
Sadly I’m having trouble coming up with a solution to your hair issue and the best that I have is to stick a D-splicer (or looped wire which is what I use since D-splicers are too expensive) from the line back towards the splice and basically try to pull the little frays back into the outer housing of the splice. The other option is to trim them off as they aren’t really that detrimental to the strength of the splice.
I wonder if the Spectra vs Dyneema brands have this phenomenon where one grows little hairs where the other one doesn’t?
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks, this 3mm Spectra is, I think, an 8 braid hollow core. It would be harder to have a 12 braid result in a 3mm diameter. Maybe the 12 braid doesn't let the cut-off tapered ends work their way out between the braids, but the 8 braid does. On a bridle line, once you release from the areo-tow or ground truck tow, one end of the bridle line is just flapping in the wind while you are flying. That whipping around motion really gives the inner taper ends a chance to find a way out through the outer braids. The difference in construction (8 braid vs 12 braid) and the application situation are probably the combined factors that make the problem appear.
Ditching the steel hook on the winch that's building our future. Less steel equals better. Rarely will any projectiles be attached now. Thanks. I like your method and video best.
Excellent demo. Q. Needing to know... Would I be able to upgrade an existing eye loop( with latchhook) on a vehicle winch line without needing to cut off the existing braiding and not starting it afresh as you demonstrated?
I have been using dyneema for fishing for over 15+ years, Under the trade name Power Pro fishing line great stuff and handles UV light very well. STRONGER than steel believe it or not.
Thank you, this was very helpful!!
Thanks just what I needed to make my decision between wire rope and synthetic for my work shed ramp lift winch. Would this be okay to use if I needed to splice two pieces of line together? Liked and subbed.
Splicing two lines together is very similar and has all the strength properties of this splice. Here is the video on how to do that splice: Dyneema End to End Splice [How to] | Sailing Wisdom th-cam.com/video/ETvUcxxM5ow/w-d-xo.html
for rock climbing, we use a figure 8 knot with the 'eye' attached to our harness' loop
Great video!
The background song reminds me a lot of "Hellbound Train" by savoy Brown.
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Awesome, I am glad I found your channel. I would like to re-rig my boat with synthetic rigging.
That’s excellent! Synthetic is definitely the future....in my humble opinion
How do you determine the correct size product for your rigging?
Just made the first eye, only have D splicer- but it works on 4mm dm20! Thank you!
DM20 is an incredible material! I’ve used it a few times and it just blows my mind!!
@@RiggingDoctor a ´dead´rope, and slippery...is that the right word...you are amazing to, being so young and all..
Finished! Now I have a fully synthetic rig, solent with two backstays. Thanx again for all help!
Thank you! These are the skills I need to be the most prepared sailor!
Cheers Jeff
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This is a really nice walk-through. Do you have a similar tutorial for a rope with a core? Like stay set from NE ropes?
I’m currently working on it! Be sure to subscribe so that as soon as it comes out you get notified ;)
Thanks a lot MASTER RIGGING-DOCTOR,I learned a lot and easy way of splicing a braided rope
you earned a sub.. i was about to do a video on this because i bought a synthetic rope for my winch that was too long.. and the factory rope had that fancy loop you did.. i was watching videos and they all used the string.. i knew the string was a bad idea from first sight.. maybe ill do a video without the fids because i just have to do 3 of them
Thank you for this video! It’s super helpful!
Your comment about thread at about 6:20 in the video sounds like obvious common sense, but it is not correct. Locking a splice with thread has some disadvantages, but strength is not one of them. Consider the following experiment I did some years ago with 6 mm Dyneema. Using 2 pieces of Dyneema, bury one in the other as you would for an eye splice, leaving plenty of rope on either side of the bury. Support the cover (standing part) above the bury, and hang a weight from the bury part below the splice. As expected, the bury pulls right out. I repeated this experiment after placing 3 stitches at the throat of the splice using 2 lb. test sewing thread. It now took 100 lb to pull out the bury. A modest amount of stitching at the throat provides a splice with full strength.
That is very impressive! I guess it has to do with the load being applied as a shear force.
Thank you! this came in very handy for my hammock mozzie net.
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Did you do the taper within the 72x length or on top of the 72x length? And if within, keep how much at the full strand count before tapering?
If it’s a simple splice that will not have too much work, I taper the end of the 72x.
If it’s going to be used in an important high stress place, I do the full 72x and then taper the extra length beyond that.
For the standing rigging, I needed to bury about 2 feet, but buried about 6 feet and tapered the last 4 feet of the bury.
Well I’m trying to learn to splice lines I found some older double braid that has been used on my small sailboat that I bought recently. Using older line verse new line does it matter when learning how to splice.
Not really. Older line (that has been used) will be a bit stiffer. If it has never been used, then it will be just like new :)
@@RiggingDoctor definitely stiff for sure but I found one of the lines was a double braid so I pulled the core and things were much smoother for me but just like everything else. Experience
Thank you... truly helpful ... suggest. shears may be easier than knife and less like to overshoot into flesh or equipment
Proper scissors or a pizza cutter rope knife works the best. From Stanley Longstaff, my teacher
I would watch one of my line boss do this it's always nice to remember the all things from the past i wish more people would do the same
Wow! Very cool! Thanks so much for this excellent video.
Glad it was helpful for you!
Thanks for the tutorial.
You are welcome!
OMG Done a bunch of splices over the decades with my old Sampson fid kit ( pouch now held together with duct tape) but I had no idea what the pusher ice pick thingy did. I just now used it first time as per your directions durning some dynema splices and it worked like a charm. I might be able to hook you up with a week of free dock in Marathon Fl Oceanside 8 ‘ deep. When you get closer I’ll remind you if interested.
Very interested! Thanks!
Good explanation!
Great videos. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much you have just convinced me to do new rigging😂
⛵️
Well done!
Found you guys from bums on a boats episode, will follow you guys , rig looks good
🤙🏼 Absolute legend. Going to order a fid kit now.
Best of luck with all the sailing
Thank you very much!
Mate,it is always a massive balance but you will be able to follow it through .I want to see you finish her but I, of all people know where you are at with this build.Rossco
Your a fountain of knowledge!
this is great, have used it a handful of times but what if the working end also has a shackle on it? How do you have two ends that eyes with metal hardware??
It can be done but you will need to have two free ends available and if it’s a long piece, then you will have to pass that very long tail through one of the passes.
Very informative! Thanks, Herbie 😉
Anytime!
CIDs yoohcoob
My first time, It was almost as pretty, but my taper didn't happen like I wanted , but it's strong as all hell. thank you!
Glad it worked out for you! The taper gets better with practice, but they are all crazy strong 💪
Thanks for that great tip!
I had got my hands on a large amount of 5/16" Kevlar line that I use for camping, hammocks, etc. Since I can't burn the ends to keep them from fraying I found using 3-1 glued heat-shrink tubing a good way to seal the ends. I leave the tubing an 1/8" or so longer than the rope end and it shrinks down to a nice blunt point. This has worked well for me, but I am no pro, I wonder if you have a better method of doing this?
Really good demo many thanks for your time and expertise
Très bonnes explications , merci à toi.
Fantastic video, well done. Boat builders and riggers I've met still seem to have a negative regard for Dyneema - rod rigging preferable and so on. Not sure how good Dyneema is with UV - the big issue, but it certainly won't crack or oxidize, and a fraction of the weight... Looked at carbon standing rigging the other day but it was worse than a baby in terms of how you had to look after it. What's the best?
As of now, there is no best. Metal cracks and corrodes. Dyneema is fine with UV but stretches. Carbon is too delicate. PBO can’t have any light.
Pick your poison! An alternative is to go junk rig and have no standing rigging.
Thank you so much. Excellent method
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Nice one buddy, do have a video of Modified tucked eye splice?
I don’t yet, but that is a great suggestion for a video
@@RiggingDoctor hoping to watch that video and learn something from you. Thanks ..
Thank you! I'm looking at replacing the steel cable for synthetic line on my winch. I was wondering how i was going to fasten the hook to the end.
Glad it could help! Synthetic will be a lot easier to manage 👍
Thank you. How do you put the thimble eye in the loop and can the rigging be prevented from humming by sheathing it in plastic tubing?
The hum is due to the rigging being under tension, it’s like a guitar string. No matter what you cover it with, it will hum. The best thing you can do is tie a line to it and lead it away at a different angle. The line needs to be tight (but not rigging tight). This will break up the stay and hopefully dampen the hum.
As for the thimble, I just squeeze it in there. It can be a tight squeeze if you made it a small eye, but with some effort it will squeeze in there. The other option is to make the eye bigger than needed and tie a flat seizing knot to close the throat around the thimble. If you ever need to replace the thimble in the future it will be much easier
@@RiggingDoctor Thank you very much for your replies.
Great video and very timely. I’m going to put my new knowledge to use this weekend. Thanks. -Jim
Glad to get this out a relevant time for you!
Very nice job thank you for brilliant video
Mine is much smaller as i use it fer hammock campin stuff and stuff.but the concept is the same. Thanks fer the vid.
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If you are using Amsteel by Samson don’t forget to downgrade braking strength by 30%, lock stitching is only keeping the bury in place and nylon twine is used so the softer fibers do not damage the Dyneema fibers. I agree with you I like the way the Brummel locks as long as you can afford to downgrade you are good
Why downgrade break strength?
The 30% down grade is based on destructive testing by independent labs of the splice you recommended. No I did not do the tests myself only viewed statements on manufacturers website so take it for what it is@@AaronBrand
@@vincentsalerno8675 I didn’t recommend anything. I’m just asking. I’m trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks!
Thanks matey. I have a Farrier F22 with Dyneema lines for the rigging and halyards, I'm the type of guy who likes to do things myself and I wanted to know how my lines were spliced so well by my rigger. This video spells it out perfectly and thanks for sharing your knowledge. One thing I would like to know is the best way to create a jib raising system using a KZ furler system?
Definitely a 2:1 block at the top would help to achieve the proper tension.
I have a question, but first I really appreciate your video, it is really well explained!
My question is what do I do if I have a core, but it's not a braided core. I've been looking all over TH-cam, and I'm just struggling to know what to do with my core. There's plenty of really good tutorials on double braided ropes, but I have a cheap polypropylene rope, and it has a core, but it's just a filler. Can someone please point me in the direction of an answer? I have done a decent amount of splicing, with other ropes and I know I could just pull out the core, and do it like this video, but taking out the core makes the eye thin and weaker. So I'd rather not do that.
The other thing I've thought of is just leaving the core in and ignoring it, but then I couldn't have my buried end in the middle of the working end as the core is in the way, and the Chinese finger trap principal would be less effective.
Those are the only easy thing I've come up with...
It’s not a splice, but have you considered a Bowline? It would still retain 80% of its original strength?
@@RiggingDoctor Thank you for your advice the Bowline is one of my favorite go-to knots, in this case since I'm wanting to permanently secure it to a tarp as a tie down, I just thought a splice would look nice and help my cheap rope last longer. Thanks for taking time to answer my question!
Great trick! Much easier than pulling though my 1000' tail! I'm doing this splice on a 1/4", 8 strand polypropylene rope. How long must the bury be to maintain full strength? Still 72 diameter? Thanks! (SGT knots poly rope.)
Poly rope eye splice is a class 1 splice, so you can get away with much less buried. The minimum to bury is 42x the diameter.
To be safe though, I would do a bit more than 42x but you don’t have to run to the extreme of 72x.
As usual I at least once a month come back to your video just to make sure I'm doing the right thing. hehehehehe This time is for something more serious. We are replacing our stainless steel steering wire for a 6mm dynnema line. For this porpoise 6mm is more then enough right? It supposedly holds 4 tonnes, and the 6 mm wire I had holds 2 tones. The one question I have is about how many times should I berry on this purpose, should I do 72 x the diameter? or less could I berry less? The problem is the thickness that increases and I'm not sure if it will fit in the quadrant. One more time thanks a lot for the videos, they help a lot!! Duca.
6mm is the size to replace the 1/4” steering cables. The Dyneema needs to fit in the groove of the quadrant and through the shivs.
Dyneema works in the application, but you might want to consider using Vectran instead. It has less creep as compared to Dyneema, but it does have some other weaknesses.
Vectran doesn’t like salt (I know, a great feature on a saltwater boat). It also degrades quickly in UV but that’s not a problem for steering cables.
Vectran can’t get salty, Dyneema will stretch a bit.
The splice needs to be ridiculously long, which is why a knot might be a better choice. The splice will make the line too thick to pass through shivs so if the spliced parts are too close to anything that is size dependent, a splice would not work.
The knot of choice would be a “halyard knot”. It’s a very strong knot that will tighten as it is loaded. This knot is a permanent knot and you will not be able to untie it, you will have to cut it off once it’s been loaded.
While I love Dyneema for all sorts of applications, I personally use 7x19 Galvanized Steel wire with three wire rope clips per end instead of a splice or knot.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks so much for all the information, I will check if it is possible to find Vectran in Brazil, and will also look for the Halyard knot as it will help a lot in order to "save diameter". Oh and the idea is to pre tension the splice or knot to avoid too much stretch. I like the dynnema as we have alluminium blocks on the system, 8 of them and I don't really like the alluminum friction with the stailess cables. And in the future I think about replacing them all to regular sailing blocks that it is much easier to have spars and to replace when necessary. One more time thanks a lot!!
www.netknots.com/application/files/2415/3690/5228/halyard-hitch.jpg
If you can’t find Vectran there, I could always get it for you here and mail it to you.
@@RiggingDoctor thanks a lot!!
Do eye splices like this benefit at all from the use of a thimble? Are thimbles bad for use with fibre ropes? I’m looking to make a rope bridge and I need a secure way to make eye splices that I can connect shackles and turnbuckles to. I’d feel better about the friction point in the eye by protecting it with a thimble. (I’m a total amateur though and don’t know any better)
Thimbles are a must for the eye when they are loaded. It keeps the turn in the eye more open as tight bends will cause the fibers to stress and break.
Thimble is a great addition to your system.
Excellent video!
Thanks :)
TOP! perfect! Thank you!
What’s a good way to reinforce the eye? Can I put a galvanized piece of steel in there? I remember reading (or hearing on TH-cam) that abrasion where there are connections can be a problem.
I use stainless steel thimbles because they are pretty but you can use a galvanized thimble for a little cheaper. The stainless ones are smoother so they will have no chafe issues while the galvanized are rougher and will lead to eventual issues in the long run.
Abrasion is the issue so anything you can do to minimize it will make it all last longer.
Came here by accident , great video. You ask for uses? One use springs to mind, what a great bike lock you could make using this. .Thieves swiftly clip chains etc off with bolt cutters or brute force, that won't work on a tether made like this, nor will cutting it be an option by the looks of it. A secure bike chain that you can carry in your pocket? It's a thought. Thanks.
I’ve actually done this! My bike lock rusted to death and I needed a lock so I made one out of a scrap piece of Dyneema. The other nice thing is it doesn’t scratch the paint.
As all bike locks are just deterrents, as they can all be destroyed with enough time, this can be cut by a really really sharp knife. I wouldn’t leave my bike overnight outside with this, but for a quick meal at a pub, it worked great!
@@RiggingDoctor Cool, I was thinking that threading a steel cable down the length would make cutting impossible, around here it's a quick boltcutter or brute force job normally. The pub, exactly my thought too. Thanks for the video, it made me thing and I'll watch some more :)
Just like Magic you crazy Dolphins swimming through my dyneema rope! Great stuff!!!
I like the imagery!
Is the splicing procedure the same for spectra/vectran line? Could you do a video on splicing these synthetics with a polyester cover , aka sheath , which gives excellent uv and chafe resistance? Could you talk about the differences between dyneema creep and vectran static after constructional stretch? Sorry, lots of questions here. Am planning a build with synthetic and would like to know your thoughts. Great videos! Keep them coming!
Dyneema, spectra, and vectran are all brand names for the same type of rope (UHMWPE: ultra high molecular weight polyethylene).
The normal looking splice which in the end looks like a regular double braid eye splice works on the long bury eye splice.
I will be doing a video on doing a high tech eye splice with double braid where it has the mobius brummel lock in it.
Stay tuned for it!
Creep is the permanent elongation over time. Constructional stretch is when the weave stretches out after a splice. Basically, the way it stretched when I milked the bury back into the rope, but even more once it is fully loaded.
The blog has a bunch of information on how to build your own synthetic standing rigging (www.riggingdoctor.com).
You can also email me any questions and I can help guide you through the process (riggingdr@gmail.com)
Thank you for the clarifications. You weren't kidding when you said you read the comments. I've been so busy enjoying your 4k videos (wink) i totally forgot about your blog! Love your videos, best to you and yours, Steve from lake superior.