A sender inspection hatch would solve a few issues in the future? Steps going to be interesting,I guessing it might take a bit of custom fabrication to get it to work alongside the after market step that's already fitted?
Something I found to my cost twice recently is that it’s very easy to snap the thread on the rear shock mount following the torque setting when refitting the shock with part worn bushes, bit of a doh moment the second time and a lot of swearing. They really don’t need much before they let go and I didn’t even realise.
a fair set of videos ,, i normally try to leave the rear spring mounts and cut off behind them if possible , but it takes me all day to do a rear chassis cut an shut , a lot of folk dont realise how much work is involved its a hard day with no room for hanging about either
yep fitted those too , last one i fitted was made in 3mm plate , that wont stop it rusting away , but it will certainly extend the life of the repair , infat , i did a disco 2 one on sat , lots of acf afterwards too.
Hi Mike, realities of rear crossmember replacement, not a quick or straightforward job. DDS Metals make good ones in the UK, Galv option & 3mm thik too, Britpart are awful & look like my first welding project. You should consider selling those suspended ceiling clamps on your shop as well, I'd buy a pair, you cannot get them here. Enjoy your channel, married to a Yorkie so humour is same.
Peter - this was a good crossmember but it was more TD5 than NAS Yes the clamps as excellent and very versatile to adaption - 100's of possibilities! Will be in the shop soon!
Those dampers a bit rusty? I thought that brand came with pre-rusted pistons anyway, if they’re whose I think they are... I don’t know how they’re still in business with their lifetime warranty!
Polybushes are complete crap. After 200km Iceland they whrere completely gone... Emergency repair was a cut-in-half rubber hammerhead. Is inside 8 years and works perfect...
The ship chandler down the road from me sells connectors called 'solder splice', which is clear shrink wrap with a little cylinder of solder within. Does the job of soldering end to end and shrink wrapping in one. Might be a time saver??
Hi. I tried these but although the solder melted there was no integrity / strength hence they just pulled apart. I got mine cheap off eBay so maybe they were just poor quality?
@@darland3821 I've seen them, but not tried them, as they weren't suitable for my situation. There may be a difference in quality, as the marine place charges high quality money!!
One thing we do with chassis holes is to put some slit conduit round the hole to stop the inside galvanized sharps rubbing the plastic
Good videos got to do my Isuzu 110 rear cross member thanks for the advice and tips😁👍
No problem 👍
A sender inspection hatch would solve a few issues in the future? Steps going to be interesting,I guessing it might take a bit of custom fabrication to get it to work alongside the after market step that's already fitted?
The Disco 1's had a plate in the floor which made life easy
Something I found to my cost twice recently is that it’s very easy to snap the thread on the rear shock mount following the torque setting when refitting the shock with part worn bushes, bit of a doh moment the second time and a lot of swearing. They really don’t need much before they let go and I didn’t even realise.
I was taught to make a good mechanical connection on wires and then solder them. It's worked well for me (just like my "Well"er solder gun)
We used to get special plastic edging at work for going around holes.
I see they pressed in the hole to prevent chaffing
a fair set of videos ,, i normally try to leave the rear spring mounts and cut off behind them if possible , but it takes me all day to do a rear chassis cut an shut , a lot of folk dont realise how much work is involved its a hard day with no room for hanging about either
I have had those that end at the spring mount, but I am seeing a lot of rot behind the mounts now so this does the job quite well
yep fitted those too , last one i fitted was made in 3mm plate , that wont stop it rusting away , but it will certainly extend the life of the repair , infat , i did a disco 2 one on sat , lots of acf afterwards too.
Convoluted tubing is what your looking for to cover the wiring.🖒🖒
Hi Mike, realities of rear crossmember replacement, not a quick or straightforward job. DDS Metals make good ones in the UK, Galv option & 3mm thik too, Britpart are awful & look like my first welding project. You should consider selling those suspended ceiling clamps on your shop as well, I'd buy a pair, you cannot get them here. Enjoy your channel, married to a Yorkie so humour is same.
Peter - this was a good crossmember but it was more TD5 than NAS
Yes the clamps as excellent and very versatile to adaption - 100's of possibilities!
Will be in the shop soon!
Hi Mike yes please more on soldering
Will do when it get a bit less busy!
Hi Mike, can't find the suspended ceiling things on UK ebay do you have a link I could use ?
I am going to out them i my shop - seem to be trade only
Those dampers a bit rusty? I thought that brand came with pre-rusted pistons anyway, if they’re whose I think they are... I don’t know how they’re still in business with their lifetime warranty!
Polybushes are complete crap. After 200km Iceland they whrere completely gone... Emergency repair was a cut-in-half rubber hammerhead. Is inside 8 years and works perfect...
Polybushes are good on sports cars where you need a firm ride, but not so on a4x4 where you need articulation
Jepp. But I thought, Australian ARB HD Polybushes for extrem outback last much longer... :-) @@BritannicaRestorations
IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT, DO NOT VISIT AND NOT COME. not everyone is as perfect as you. Pozdrawiam Mike greetings good luck.
The ship chandler down the road from me sells connectors called 'solder splice', which is clear shrink wrap with a little cylinder of solder within. Does the job of soldering end to end and shrink wrapping in one. Might be a time saver??
Hi. I tried these but although the solder melted there was no integrity / strength hence they just pulled apart. I got mine cheap off eBay so maybe they were just poor quality?
@@darland3821 I've seen them, but not tried them, as they weren't suitable for my situation. There may be a difference in quality, as the marine place charges high quality money!!
Your Weller gun looks as old as mine 😂
Indeed it has had a bit of stick over the years - I have to tap it every time I use it - maybe time to get a new one with a bit more poke?
Britannica Restorations Ltd I bought mine when I was an apprentice, back in 1970 or 1971