I'm old fashioned, had a tailight bulb fail, cost me 70p for a pack of 2 so now I have a spare, you can buy them over the counter and even in supermarkets, have fun with led's lol.
Not only that but these LEDs look crap in comparison to the original, really don't understand why they exist.. just seems like theres a whole section of automotive enthusiasts who seem to think LED>original no matter what 😂 around me all the kids are changing number plate bulbs to cold white LEDS - that look total shite
I believe the box with the adjustment knob on is for setting the dash trailer flash light which should flash when a trailer is indicating but should just flash once on the dash when a trailer isn't coupled up.
I once bought a set of the early style bullet connector Wipac rear lights from Paddocks as they had them on the counter at a ridiculously cheep 'special offer' - always handy to have in stock for when they corrode, melt of generally disintegrate when trying to change a bulb. Turns out when I got round to using them the red wire was for brakes and the green was tail lights so they'd made them with the colours backwards and thats probably why they were being flogged off. I've since started using the Wipac LED ones as they look fairly standard, aren't very expensive and seem to be more durable than the crappy originals, however as with any LED unit if they break theres not much you can do to fix them where as bulbs can always be bodged to work till your back is next turned. LED bulb conversions are always junk. Also found with LED headlights, they don't go dimmer when the ground is poor or do the disco with the indicators so the first you notice is when everything stops working. At least on older bullet conector trucks its easy to do surgery if you keep some spare connectors and some scotchbrite with you (cut the insulation off the connector and open the old one out with a screwdriver so you can save the bullets and clean with scotchbrite ready for a new connector). I know the later sealed plugs are more reliable but they are still prone to corroded terminals and need replacing.
Been there, done that, got the badge!!! And as a lot of people have also said, it's a land rover issue as I have two mates who all changed our originals for Wipac. We all had different lamps that worked or didn't on our respective vehicles...
Polarities are always the first "go to" with any led problem followed by balancing the loads to things like flasher relays .... that's probably why you had the little circuit board. All the best for Christmas.
I up-graded my tail lamps on a series III yrs ago. I didn't replace the units but just put led upgraded bulbs - made a hell of a different on the brake, tail lights and indicators. What i did do was put a led brake strip light into the rear tailgate (mine swings out like a door to the right) spiced the lamp feed to the hot brake wire on the Right. (Gives you a fighting chance as the series III brake lights are poor at the best if times). Side point - yrs ago i put 150w bulb into the main beams on my P38a Boy o boy they would give you a sunburn at night.
When I fitted mine, there was actually an instruction leaflet in the box that tells you to swap over the wires in the plug if the lights don’t work. As they are not exclusively for defenders, some of the other cars they fit have the polarity reversed in the cars wiring loom
The pins are easily swapped with a piece of wire to release them. The flasher knob is for trailers; you set it with the trailer on so that the trailer dash light flashes, and doesn't when the trailer is disconnected for UK law
Hi we had this last month. Ball ache. And we swapped the wires around. And the flasher relay was fxxxed aswel .had a 1 in stock changed it and then it all worked as it should. Regards James of jb auto clinic uk
I test the LEDs on the bench with a power supply to verify the polarity that they work. Most of the time they're correct but when they're not it sure can waste time. Be sure to hit the brakes while testing the signal lights to see if you get the quick flash. Some people like the quick flash. Merry Christmas.
Don’t be too quick to blame Wipac. I fitted the JW Speaker LED lights to mine and had similar problems. It turns out that Land Rover were a bit cavalier on how they fitted the plugs to their wiring loom. Checking against the Land Rover electrical reference manual, some of the loom plugs were fitted ‘backwards’. This came back to haunt me, when a new loom from Autosparks was fitted. They did follow the reference manual, so now those lights I rewired, were now ‘backwards’ again!
Oh yes, had that problem. Installed those Wipac LEDs on all three of my Defenders. The older two were fine but the Puma were all wired incorrectly. The knob on the flasher relay is so you can adjusted manually to correct the flasher rate
Mind did the same, apparently the wiring at Landrover changed around 98 from memory. Id the opposite problem where everything flashed when i indicated. Rang wipac and they told me to swap the wires, also had to order an additional resister for the dash bulb to make it work with them. Only afterwards did i notice reverese wire instructions were written in small print at the bottom of the instructions.
I have those wipac lights and they fill up with water!!!! My original military ones were much better but as they were all waterproofed it would take ages to change a bulb which was a pain.
Beer O'clock there's a good idea. I have tried to keep mine all incandescent lamps except for a couple of LED clusters at the top of the ambulance body at the rear (only ones I could find to fit in the space available). Tail, brakes and reversing lights work fine, but the indicators are very faint when flashing? I believe you can get a flasher unit which can do both normal bulbs and LED's on the same circuit? If so I need to get hold of one.
LED does not draw much current - may be a bad connection somewhere. I know, I know, a bad connection on a Defender is very rare, but it could happen! Lol!
Have you left the original incandescent side repeaters, I did with mine, nice to have a bit of resistance. That adjustable knob on the wipac flasher is for fine tuning trailer lights.
Yes - did a video on this years ago - by leaving the side repeaters in, then you don't have to play with the warning light on the dash (pre Td5 vehicles)
I had the same problem with mine , but it was the polarity on the vehicle wiring not the lights. My one is an older model so i was using prewired tails to use the plugs on the Wipacs so it was easy sorted , i also left the side repeaters with incandescent bulbs go leave some resistance in the system.
We tested with a polarity corrected LED (outer shell ground) and it worked on the LR plug - this meant the Wipac wiring was wrong - switched the wires on the Wipac, and it worked - I am not alone with this problem
Just a note for next time. You could have removed the wiring pins from the plug and slotted them back in. Then you would not have to cut, solder and heatshrink the wire. With the relay potentiometer it is not to change the speed it is to alter the resistive load. I always set it ever so slightly less than flashing the trailer warning symbol when the engine is running. This way when you put a trailer on it will still flash the trailer warning. This
You should have seen these shitty Econoseal plugs - there was no way to get the pins out without destroying the plug - otherwise we would have done that They were not like the regular Econoseal plugs at all
Hallo Mike! I have a Problem on my Disco 2 R380 all Gears shift hard could it be a Problem of the Oilpumpe or ???? Do you have a Idea Tomorrow I will change the Oil to see what comes out.
Yes - drop the oil and flush the box a few times with cheap 5w/30 oil and refill with ATF (Cheaper than flushing with ATF) I once had one that was a bugger to change and found someone had ruined the filler plug, so not been changed for years = 3 flushes and good ATF, and it was like new! Fingers crossed!
I doubt it is gear stick adjustment - but it might be worth removing the remote shift assembly and making sure it is free to move - could be the lower bush for the shift lever has broken
As LED bulbs draw less current a suitable adjustable relay is usually required and supplied as part of the kit. An additional problem is when both LHS and RHS flashers both operate at the same time when either left or right turn is selected. This is due to small current passing through the dash TURN indicator bulb to the other side and also operating the opposite LED indicator. A proprietary solution is available online, however I used a common cathode LED arrangement made up of two LED’s (white green or blue) filed down and glued back to back with their cathodes (- negative short legs) soldered together (to fit into the TURN signal bulb holder) and this common cathode connected to ground by a short lead via a resistor. Drill a small 1mm hole down the centre of the bulb holder for the cathode (- = ground wire) insulate if possible then cut to length and solder the anodes (+ long legs) to the RH and LH bulb holder terminals respectively. This way LH indicator LED indicator circuit is completed through one of the samesed dash TURN indicator LED’s and RH indicator to the other, both using ground to complete the circuit rather than the other indicator. Using this when indicating left the current passes through the LED side indicator and through one of the dash LED’ then down to a ground inside the dash. Turning the other way operates the other of the two Siamese’d dash LED’s and down to ground via shared ground lead. ££ Cost about 20 pence & 15 minutes work. If you can find small 3mm white or green common cathode (3 leg) LED this will work. Alternatively leave the incandescent side repeaters in place.
@@BritannicaRestorations Yeah Mike, agree I watched it and it does work as I also mentioned, however, if a side repeater bulb fails then all indicators will flash. Wipac should have supplied a LED bulb like that sold by Boltonbits with the Land Rover kit with instructions and some basic faultfinding which would help many DIYers.
I had the same problem with fitting LED'S to my 300TDI My supplier here in Australia said that the lights are wired to suit a TD5 which is wired reverse polarity to a TDI So one of your new lights was actually wired incorrectly and worked on your TDI 😂
Has the Wipac box containing the kit got the little wording "made in china" written on it? That might have some bearing on the sad lack of quality control.
On my TDI i had to get an earth leak fix kit from RDX, land rover swapped the polarity on later defenders think from TD5 so wipac tend to come out of the factory built for them, tdi and earlier have to swap the wires. But Land Rover was never consistent hence the mess about as most cars are unique
Don't you have to fit a resistor kit for the led's to work. I know many years ago I tried them on my disco 1 and didn't work until I fitted a resistor pack
If you haven also changed the side repeaters to LED you ‘fast’ flashing relay still might not work if you have all led lamps. Also when you are fully led you might have problems with all the indicators flashing at once. That comes down to the repeater bulb in the dash
@@BritannicaRestorations my 1996 300Tdi 110 has a single bulb…. I had to replace the bulb with a led and two diodes to stop the left indicators feeding the right.
My truck is from 1994 (early 300Tdi). I replaced the full light set (except side repeaters) with Wipac LED, some years ago. Seem to recall that I had to reverse the polarity on all of them. Which makes me think the problem arose in Solihull, not China…much as it pains me to admit it 😬
Funny, but we fitted an LED bulb into a regular socket with corrected polarity (the case was negative) and it worked - thus - the LR connector was wired correctly -IF it didn't work, then the LR wires were backwards
This is a well-known problem with fitting LED lights to the Defender. If I remember correctly, it's often related to the cab indicator light, and the way LED bulbs only allow current to flow in one direction.
@@BritannicaRestorationsWhen we fitted these to a 200tdi not only did we have to reverse the wires on the lamps but we also had to add two diodes to the dash lamp supply.
On the boxes for my wipac sidelight and indicator it says: “Please note the wiring on this lamp may require swapping over - i.e., removed from the connector plug and replaced in opposite pin positions. This is due to Land Rover Defender;s change in connector polarity from circa 1998 onward. This lamp has been wired to fit models from late 1998 onward.”
@@BritannicaRestorations I think it’s shenanigans by the auto-electrician cartel to punish people who dare to change their own bulbs. By the way, the boxes also say made in China - I recall you speculating about the likelihood of the made in UK claim. The boxes I have aren’t the fancy all-in-one consumer display case, but just oem-style single lamp boxes with no consumer instructions.
I suppose they could be counterfeit wipacs, but if you were going in to the counterfeiting business, would you choose to do it supplying 1990s era Defender mods?
I wouldn’t be so quick to slag off wipac on this one: The polarity is likely wrong on the vehicle, not the lights. When Land Rover built the vehicles they only had incandescent in mind so wired the vehicle plugs up inconsistently. If you read the instructions for the relay you’d know that the knob isn’t for adjusting flash speed- it is for tuning the resistance so that the dash trailer indicator light works properly.
They were the shittiest connectors I have seen - the seals were buried deep in the plug - I would have destroyed the flimsy metal connectors trying to get them out
Seems it might've been quicker to verify the polarity of each plug on the vehicle, then verify the polarity of the each new LED. Then simply swap the pins on LED connector, or the vehicle connector to match one at a time, rather than cutting wires, swapping them over, soldering and heatshrinking.
@BritannicaRestorations Ahh, yep I totally understand. Makes sense when dealing with cheapo connectors, just look at them the wrong way and suddenly they're only good for the bin🤣
Wow! What a rip-off! I find after a few years the Wipacs can get humidity in them I just fit these to the original side lights and indicators - these are the correct polarity www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07G55QHHD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1
I just buy replacement LED bulbs for the original lights C$24 for 20 - but only for the front and reverse lights - here in Canada the snow can cover the lights and not melt like a stock bulb can
@@BritannicaRestorations we tried that, those LEDs are made of chineasium....start flickering after no time...I always try to use old skool bulbs....just can't get those little fibre washers to stop the water getting in
I'm old fashioned, had a tailight bulb fail, cost me 70p for a pack of 2 so now I have a spare, you can buy them over the counter and even in supermarkets, have fun with led's lol.
You can get polarity corrected LED bulbs on Amazon, C$24 for 20 - fit and forget into regular lights
Not only that but these LEDs look crap in comparison to the original, really don't understand why they exist.. just seems like theres a whole section of automotive enthusiasts who seem to think LED>original no matter what 😂 around me all the kids are changing number plate bulbs to cold white LEDS - that look total shite
@@nigelmckee3058 fair point. I just got sick of the original lights filling up with water. Lucas = get home before dark.
@richardlister1737 a small drain drilled in the bottom is a common solution
I believe the box with the adjustment knob on is for setting the dash trailer flash light which should flash when a trailer is indicating but should just flash once on the dash when a trailer isn't coupled up.
Yeah was going to say this, my wipac set mentioned this in the instructions, but don’t have a trailer to test it with
yep, I fitted to my D1 too, same thing. the adjuster is for setting the trailer lights indicator when trailer is hooked up.
I once bought a set of the early style bullet connector Wipac rear lights from Paddocks as they had them on the counter at a ridiculously cheep 'special offer' - always handy to have in stock for when they corrode, melt of generally disintegrate when trying to change a bulb. Turns out when I got round to using them the red wire was for brakes and the green was tail lights so they'd made them with the colours backwards and thats probably why they were being flogged off.
I've since started using the Wipac LED ones as they look fairly standard, aren't very expensive and seem to be more durable than the crappy originals, however as with any LED unit if they break theres not much you can do to fix them where as bulbs can always be bodged to work till your back is next turned. LED bulb conversions are always junk. Also found with LED headlights, they don't go dimmer when the ground is poor or do the disco with the indicators so the first you notice is when everything stops working. At least on older bullet conector trucks its easy to do surgery if you keep some spare connectors and some scotchbrite with you (cut the insulation off the connector and open the old one out with a screwdriver so you can save the bullets and clean with scotchbrite ready for a new connector). I know the later sealed plugs are more reliable but they are still prone to corroded terminals and need replacing.
Been there, done that, got the badge!!! And as a lot of people have also said, it's a land rover issue as I have two mates who all changed our originals for Wipac. We all had different lamps that worked or didn't on our respective vehicles...
Yeap they are a pain in the arse - but they look good (So I am told)
Polarities are always the first "go to" with any led problem followed by balancing the loads to things like flasher relays .... that's probably why you had the little circuit board. All the best for Christmas.
I up-graded my tail lamps on a series III yrs ago.
I didn't replace the units but just put led upgraded bulbs - made a hell of a different on the brake, tail lights and indicators.
What i did do was put a led brake strip light into the rear tailgate (mine swings out like a door to the right) spiced the lamp feed to the hot brake wire on the Right. (Gives you a fighting chance as the series III brake lights are poor at the best if times).
Side point - yrs ago i put 150w bulb into the main beams on my P38a
Boy o boy they would give you a sunburn at night.
When I fitted mine, there was actually an instruction leaflet in the box that tells you to swap over the wires in the plug if the lights don’t work. As they are not exclusively for defenders, some of the other cars they fit have the polarity reversed in the cars wiring loom
I just had this on the WIPAC lights I installed on my 1997 Defender 90!
Here's the strangest part - the set of WIPAC lights were working fine in my 2008 Defender 110. Then wouldn't work in the 1997 Defender 90!
It's a Land Rover thing....
The pins are easily swapped with a piece of wire to release them. The flasher knob is for trailers; you set it with the trailer on so that the trailer dash light flashes, and doesn't when the trailer is disconnected for UK law
Hi we had this last month. Ball ache. And we swapped the wires around. And the flasher relay was fxxxed aswel .had a 1 in stock changed it and then it all worked as it should. Regards James of jb auto clinic uk
Glad I am not alone, James - - another 1/2 day chasing rainbows...
I test the LEDs on the bench with a power supply to verify the polarity that they work. Most of the time they're correct but when they're not it sure can waste time. Be sure to hit the brakes while testing the signal lights to see if you get the quick flash.
Some people like the quick flash.
Merry Christmas.
Good advice, thanks!
You can test them with a 9 volt battery. Not very bright but they will light.
@@jamescaron6465 or with a multimeter on continuity/diode test mode.
Don’t be too quick to blame Wipac. I fitted the JW Speaker LED lights to mine and had similar problems. It turns out that Land Rover were a bit cavalier on how they fitted the plugs to their wiring loom. Checking against the Land Rover electrical reference manual, some of the loom plugs were fitted ‘backwards’.
This came back to haunt me, when a new loom from Autosparks was fitted. They did follow the reference manual, so now those lights I rewired, were now ‘backwards’ again!
I did check the ground first on the vehicle - electrical 101 fault-finding
Oh yes, had that problem. Installed those Wipac LEDs on all three of my Defenders. The older two were fine but the Puma were all wired incorrectly. The knob on the flasher relay is so you can adjusted manually to correct the flasher rate
Good to know about the flasher relay!
Mind did the same, apparently the wiring at Landrover changed around 98 from memory. Id the opposite problem where everything flashed when i indicated.
Rang wipac and they told me to swap the wires, also had to order an additional resister for the dash bulb to make it work with them.
Only afterwards did i notice reverese wire instructions were written in small print at the bottom of the instructions.
Pre Td5 use the side repeaters with regular bulbs - easy solution if you have problems with the dash light not working
We had the same, over half had the plugs on the wrong way round.
I have those wipac lights and they fill up with water!!!! My original military ones were much better but as they were all waterproofed it would take ages to change a bulb which was a pain.
Yes, I have seen them condensate up
Beer O'clock there's a good idea. I have tried to keep mine all incandescent lamps except for a couple of LED clusters at the top of the ambulance body at the rear (only ones I could find to fit in the space available). Tail, brakes and reversing lights work fine, but the indicators are very faint when flashing? I believe you can get a flasher unit which can do both normal bulbs and LED's on the same circuit? If so I need to get hold of one.
LED does not draw much current - may be a bad connection somewhere.
I know, I know, a bad connection on a Defender is very rare, but it could happen!
Lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations 🤣
Have you left the original incandescent side repeaters, I did with mine, nice to have a bit of resistance.
That adjustable knob on the wipac flasher is for fine tuning trailer lights.
Yes - did a video on this years ago - by leaving the side repeaters in, then you don't have to play with the warning light on the dash (pre Td5 vehicles)
I had the same problem with mine , but it was the polarity on the vehicle wiring not the lights.
My one is an older model so i was using prewired tails to use the plugs on the Wipacs so it was easy sorted , i also left the side repeaters with incandescent bulbs go leave some resistance in the system.
They had one job at the factory to do correctly…😂
Muppets!
Try the one that was working in one of the other locations. I wouldn’t be surprised if it is the Landy wiring rather than the lights.
Nope, the Wipacs were wrong
@ they were probably for the 12V AC Landrover
We tested with a polarity corrected LED (outer shell ground) and it worked on the LR plug - this meant the Wipac wiring was wrong - switched the wires on the Wipac, and it worked - I am not alone with this problem
Bet all those Wipac lights would have worked on that RHS socket.
Just a note for next time. You could have removed the wiring pins from the plug and slotted them back in. Then you would not have to cut, solder and heatshrink the wire.
With the relay potentiometer it is not to change the speed it is to alter the resistive load. I always set it ever so slightly less than flashing the trailer warning symbol when the engine is running.
This way when you put a trailer on it will still flash the trailer warning.
This
You should have seen these shitty Econoseal plugs - there was no way to get the pins out without destroying the plug - otherwise we would have done that
They were not like the regular Econoseal plugs at all
Am sure on the wipac box for the LED's it states that depending on model year of vehicle you need to swap the wires over .
I didn't originally fit these, but why did we have 1 out of 4 working?
My set the other year was the same but I thought it may be because land rover got there wires backwards, but it never mattered with old bulbs
Correct!
Hallo Mike! I have a Problem on my Disco 2 R380 all Gears shift hard could it be a Problem of the Oilpumpe or ???? Do you have a Idea Tomorrow I will change the Oil to see what comes out.
Yes - drop the oil and flush the box a few times with cheap 5w/30 oil and refill with ATF (Cheaper than flushing with ATF)
I once had one that was a bugger to change and found someone had ruined the filler plug, so not been changed for years = 3 flushes and good ATF, and it was like new!
Fingers crossed!
@@BritannicaRestorations or could there be a Problem with the Gearstick adjustment??
@@BritannicaRestorations I already change the oil 2000km ago. Till now the gearbox runs 320000 km may be its normal that it is gon?!
I doubt it is gear stick adjustment - but it might be worth removing the remote shift assembly and making sure it is free to move - could be the lower bush for the shift lever has broken
@@BritannicaRestorations Oil out perfect clean and shiny and Gearshift easly??? I understand nothing!! >Do you have an Idee?
As LED bulbs draw less current a suitable adjustable relay is usually required and supplied as part of the kit.
An additional problem is when both LHS and RHS flashers both operate at the same time when either left or right turn is selected. This is due to small current passing through the dash TURN indicator bulb to the other side and also operating the opposite LED indicator.
A proprietary solution is available online, however I used a common cathode LED arrangement made up of two LED’s (white green or blue) filed down and glued back to back with their cathodes (- negative short legs) soldered together (to fit into the TURN signal bulb holder) and this common cathode connected to ground by a short lead via a resistor.
Drill a small 1mm hole down the centre of the bulb holder for the cathode (- = ground wire) insulate if possible then cut to length and solder the anodes (+ long legs) to the RH and LH bulb holder terminals respectively. This way LH indicator LED indicator circuit is completed through one of the samesed dash TURN indicator LED’s and RH indicator to the other, both using ground to complete the circuit rather than the other indicator.
Using this when indicating left the current passes through the LED side indicator and through one of the dash LED’ then down to a ground inside the dash. Turning the other way operates the other of the two Siamese’d dash LED’s and down to ground via shared ground lead. ££ Cost about 20 pence & 15 minutes work. If you can find small 3mm white or green common cathode (3 leg) LED this will work.
Alternatively leave the incandescent side repeaters in place.
A far simpler way is to leave the side repeater bulbs in - did a video on this a few years back
@@BritannicaRestorations Yeah Mike, agree I watched it and it does work as I also mentioned, however, if a side repeater bulb fails then all indicators will flash. Wipac should have supplied a LED bulb like that sold by Boltonbits with the Land Rover kit with instructions and some basic faultfinding which would help many DIYers.
If the side repeater bulb has blown, it is pretty easy to replace, and pretty obvious
I had the same problem with fitting LED'S to my 300TDI
My supplier here in Australia said that the lights are wired to suit a TD5 which is wired reverse polarity to a TDI
So one of your new lights was actually wired incorrectly and worked on your TDI 😂
You’d think they’d sort this by now!
They have if you have a TDI nothing fits apparently they think there are more TD5's out there so that's what they make parts to suit
Has the Wipac box containing the kit got the little wording "made in china" written on it? That might have some bearing on the sad lack of quality control.
Probably - the Econseal plugs were the worst I have seen - there was no way to get the silicon seal out to change the wires round
I think, "when an LED goes wrong, always first check polarity before anything else".
Anyone know what happened to "LOOK CREATIONS" a guy rebuilding a 109 LR up in yorkshire UK. His videos suddenly stopped before it was finished.
No idea
On my TDI i had to get an earth leak fix kit from RDX, land rover swapped the polarity on later defenders think from TD5 so wipac tend to come out of the factory built for them, tdi and earlier have to swap the wires. But Land Rover was never consistent hence the mess about as most cars are unique
Don't you have to fit a resistor kit for the led's to work. I know many years ago I tried them on my disco 1 and didn't work until I fitted a resistor pack
No, they are already fitted to plug into the 12v system
@BritannicaRestorations oh okay thanks,.
If you haven also changed the side repeaters to LED you ‘fast’ flashing relay still might not work if you have all led lamps. Also when you are fully led you might have problems with all the indicators flashing at once. That comes down to the repeater bulb in the dash
This is on pre Td5 as they have individual L and R bulbs on the dash
@@BritannicaRestorations my 1996 300Tdi 110 has a single bulb…. I had to replace the bulb with a led and two diodes to stop the left indicators feeding the right.
I always leave the side repeaters in on pre Td5 - they save messing about with the warning light on the dash
My truck is from 1994 (early 300Tdi). I replaced the full light set (except side repeaters) with Wipac LED, some years ago. Seem to recall that I had to reverse the polarity on all of them. Which makes me think the problem arose in Solihull, not China…much as it pains me to admit it 😬
Funny, but we fitted an LED bulb into a regular socket with corrected polarity (the case was negative) and it worked - thus - the LR connector was wired correctly -IF it didn't work, then the LR wires were backwards
@@BritannicaRestorations fair point, Mike. But no two Defenders are the same…as you, of all people, know!
This is a well-known problem with fitting LED lights to the Defender. If I remember correctly, it's often related to the cab indicator light, and the way LED bulbs only allow current to flow in one direction.
Yes - that is why in the pre Td5 you have a problem with the indicator warning light on the dash
@@BritannicaRestorationsWhen we fitted these to a 200tdi not only did we have to reverse the wires on the lamps but we also had to add two diodes to the dash lamp supply.
Fit regular bulbs to the side repeaters on the wing, and you do not have to worry with fannying about with diodes
Wonderful Chinesium kwaliTy kontRol in operation...
Yeap, another day wasted....
Hey Grumps... How's the trike going ?
On the boxes for my wipac sidelight and indicator it says:
“Please note the wiring on this lamp may require swapping over - i.e., removed from the connector plug and replaced in opposite pin positions.
This is due to Land Rover Defender;s change in connector polarity from circa 1998 onward.
This lamp has been wired to fit models from late 1998 onward.”
The wipac part number for the sidelight is S6060LED and for the flasher it’s S6061LED.
So why did one work and the other didn't?
@@BritannicaRestorations I think it’s shenanigans by the auto-electrician cartel to punish people who dare to change their own bulbs. By the way, the boxes also say made in China - I recall you speculating about the likelihood of the made in UK claim. The boxes I have aren’t the fancy all-in-one consumer display case, but just oem-style single lamp boxes with no consumer instructions.
I suppose they could be counterfeit wipacs, but if you were going in to the counterfeiting business, would you choose to do it supplying 1990s era Defender mods?
Because they are more abundant?...
I wouldn’t be so quick to slag off wipac on this one:
The polarity is likely wrong on the vehicle, not the lights. When Land Rover built the vehicles they only had incandescent in mind so wired the vehicle plugs up inconsistently.
If you read the instructions for the relay you’d know that the knob isn’t for adjusting flash speed- it is for tuning the resistance so that the dash trailer indicator light works properly.
Wrong - how can you have the polarity wrong front to back on the same side?
The designers cheaped out, could have put a bridge rectifier in them and then they wouldn't care about polarity.
If your lucky they might last as long as a filament lamp!!
Yeap.....
The knob on the flasher is for trailer lights. U are ment to set it so the trailer lights come up on dash board
Yeap...
Standard Chinese plus to negative and black to red
Keep it stock, keep it simple. Use the money down the pub.
I like that!
I must have been lucky with my Wipac LED's... They were plug and play.
Didn't fancy de-pinning the connector and swapping the wires? 🤔
They were the shittiest connectors I have seen - the seals were buried deep in the plug - I would have destroyed the flimsy metal connectors trying to get them out
Seems it might've been quicker to verify the polarity of each plug on the vehicle, then verify the polarity of the each new LED.
Then simply swap the pins on LED connector, or the vehicle connector to match one at a time, rather than cutting wires, swapping them over, soldering and heatshrinking.
Naturally we tried that fist but the plugs were so shitty that we risked destroying them, this was the only option - you would have done the same
@BritannicaRestorations Ahh, yep I totally understand.
Makes sense when dealing with cheapo connectors, just look at them the wrong way and suddenly they're only good for the bin🤣
See why I do not fit these LED lights in my trucks - I just use regular LR lights and fit polarity corrected bulbs - C$24 for 20
In South Africa they ask R7500 for a set of those lights .
Wow! What a rip-off!
I find after a few years the Wipacs can get humidity in them
I just fit these to the original side lights and indicators - these are the correct polarity
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07G55QHHD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1
@BritannicaRestorations good day Sir I checked the prices off the glohh light set they want R18454.42 plus tax a set I will never pay that for lights.
Next time try beer first
The knob turns until the trailer light on the dash goes off. I fit loads of these, at least one in each pack is wrong
More trouble than they are worth
@@BritannicaRestorationsYep, but nearly every Landy in the UK now running them so they are pumping them out from China I guess....
I just buy replacement LED bulbs for the original lights C$24 for 20 - but only for the front and reverse lights - here in Canada the snow can cover the lights and not melt like a stock bulb can
@@BritannicaRestorations we tried that, those LEDs are made of chineasium....start flickering after no time...I always try to use old skool bulbs....just can't get those little fibre washers to stop the water getting in
Never a problem with my supplier - 5 years in +30c to - 30c
the old 50 50 100, if you have a 50/50 you'll be wrong almost 100% of the time
Spending hours , on somebody other mistakes......
Part and parcel of Land Rover repairs!
Why do people bother with these?
But they look soooooo gooood!
Lol!
I had issues with my wipac lights and trailers so I did this to correct it
th-cam.com/video/nUUiFiRm184/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dSFpNR-W9muFX1S8
Durite do a solid state flasher relay. No adjustment required.