It just blows my mind that they run the water pump from the timing belt, especially as you need to remove the aux belt to get to the timing belt. So the water pump has gone on my leon and thus I have to go through all this for a part that always fails, such a bad design to my mind. So thanks very much for this video tutorial, give me confidence to go and tackle this job now, wish me luck ;-)
Great video - i think its one of the clearest and best filmed on youtube so well done. One question: when i have set the tensioner correctly then rotated the engine (manually) the tensioner goes out of alignment! is this normal or is the tensioner to blame (its still the orginal one)
Great video. Just two things, when I do the same timing belt I unscrew the pulley of HP pump and cameshaft...and in your video I haven't seen that...especially for adjust correctly the tension of the belt. Or I have not well watched your video...TY
Thanks , yeah you can slacken both the hp pump and the camshaft the pulleys , I used to do it on the earlier style (3 bolt setup) but I never do on these later ones with the single screw, I find it really Easy to do without and never have any issues getting the timing bang on
This job took me 5 hours to do, what wastes the time is trying to crack off some really hard to get to bolts here and there and also the lack of a 16mm Long socket for the engine mounts. but all working ok. So on mine the bearing on the water pump had destroyed itself and collapsed, there were many ball bearings around, so the crank was nearly one tooth out on the existing belt.
At least you got it sorted mate, never has a pump completely collapse on one of these later engines tbf , had plenty of the earlier ones fail where the plastic impeller cracked and wouldn't spin
Nice video very detailed and helpful, have you any experience on I.6TDI CAY CR oil pump and belt changes? I have heard that sometimes the belt degrades and clogs the oil pickup hence low oil pressure etc. Any advice or info most appreciated
👍 thanks! Tbh I’ve never replaced one! Had a lot of experience with them but never known one to fail yet .. although like you I have come across people speaking of it
Done fair number of those belts and I don’t mind doing them apart from removing that top cover 😩 like you i remove the temp sensor and even the little heat shield from the cover itself what a sod they can be I’ve Brocken a few in the process 😩
Haha I know there a right c**t 🤣 I’m sure the correct procedure to remove it is to take dpf off.. I’d still rather struggle with the cover the spend however long raving the dpf off haha .. I’ve trimmed that bit off the cover in the past to make it easier to refit too 👍
You dont need to broke them , its easier to remove or install them without the engine mount . Do you know the oem for the timing belt? Looks like a dayco belt but someone once told me that is a continental belt
Ill be doing my 1.6tdi caya soon, my question is ill be replacing my hpfp as the same time as my current one is whining, these pumps do that need timing or do i just replace and pin it?
@@diydaly perfect mate thanks a lot they are actually made near me. Going to do my timing kit this the cars gone 8 years with the original from a previous owner!
Thanks for your videos. VW recommended to loosen camshaft pully and high pressure pump pully . How is it not much necessary to loosen them ? Could you please explain it,so I'll be very confident to start the work.
Yeah they do recommend if but I very rarely do it on this engine code , we’ve replaced 100s without , if you do want to do it with loosening you will need a pulley hold-all tool to hold it while you undo the centre nuts
Great video, very informative. I have a question, I done this without tools. I was told that the fuel pump doest need to be timed only the crank and cam. Job done cars runs and drivers perfectly. I have the glow plug light now on the dash with fault code P242A00: Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor, active/static. Recon this could be related to the fuel pump? Its odd that it came up as soon as I started the car after doing the belt. Any info would be much appreciated
the fuel pump should be set in the position where it locks with the pin mate, I wouldn't expect it to bring that fault up, check your exhaust temp sensor though.. its easy to damage them when removing the top timing belt cover!
If you fit the new belt, rotate the engine twice and the tensioner is slightly to the left is it ok to undo the tensioner adjust and bolt it up again 20nm +45. I have loosened the Cam and FP, all was still in time but the tensioner is out.
Great video sir! I have a question, could you help me out? I've recently bought a Golf 7.5 1.6 TDI, 2019. It has 234000 kilometers on dashboard so today I've decided to change the timing belt and water pump, as I wasn't sure if these parts had been changed by the previous owner. Now I have an error "P199E00 cylinder head coolant valve open circuit.", which I've found with OBDELEVEN. Local shop installed non OEM parts KDP 457.790 but they should install KDP 457.790S kit which has electronically controlled water pump, so I assume that could be the reason for this error, right? Is it something serious or I can live with it and drive my car without concern? Also, I have an error B15EC14 and my front parking sensors and park pilot don't work and P040100 (insufficient EGR flow). Probably mechanic in local shop damaged some harness or sensor during the timing belt change... 😓
I would say something’s been done to the wiring as the new pump although not electronic will have a housing to fit the sensor into .. it will still operate as normal (just not actually do anything) thus the ecu does not detect a fault .. egr fault is likely to be the egr cooler
I know this is a DIY page but i don’t have all the tools, jack and confidence. Is this something you do as a paid service? And if so where are you based? And how much would the cost be for this exact job?
Nice video! 1 question though…on a Audi a1 2011 1.6tdi cr 105hp the cambelt tensioner stud is still prone to fail, or it has been revised? Do you have to replace it when you do the timing belt? Many thanks
Great video - really clear and informative. I have a Seat Leon petrol 1.4tsi - i understand that the cam belt needs to be changed every 5 years? or 80,000 miles? not sure my local garage is accurate on this?
Hi I noticed you don't use genuine vw spares. Do you think the gates set is as good as there seems to be a he'll of a price difference. Thanks in advance David
They I really rate the gates kits.. I’ve used them for years.. if I was giving the choice not paying obviously I’d prefer OE parts but otherwise I always aim to fit the gates kits .. it’s worth checking sometimes as TPS trade price for some or the OE kits can be quite good!
Nice video! I just got a question, the manual says that you need to loosen the camshaft and fuel pump bolts before tensioning the new belt. Do you think that is necessary?
I used to do that all the time on the earlier engine (with the 3 securing bolts) the idea is to give a nice tensioner all round but on these later ones I’ve never bothers , as doing it the way I do it’s always been ok and had nice tension all round
@@diydaly Hello, why does the timing synchronization change from 1.2 on a cold engine to 0.4 on a warm 90 C? Is the timing correctly installed? 1.6 tdi cayc engine ....
Hey loved the video as visual can speak a million words are the torque setting for this car be the same for the mk6 golf cr 2.0..I'm struggling to find them any help appreciated 😀
Thanks Andy ! Comments much appreciated , yeah the will be the same.. I’ve got another video doing the same job on a mk7 golf 2.0 , they are near enough the same though 👍
@@diydaly welcome well deserves them 👏 and brilliant I will note these down I did see on this one that the cam gear could possibly be different oppose to the 3 bolts style.. have you will look forwards to seeing the mk7..awesome work thanks again
@@diydaly thanks very much my friend who is a trained mechanic loves the gates stuff too. Looking forward to having a go at my 1.6 tdi Passat now CAYC.
I use the snap on one , bought directly off the van as her visits the workshop every week.. I attached a link to the same one on eBay .. the snap on one is a mega bit of kit and does both torque and angle but is also the most expensive! I’ve not had a lot of experience with any cheaper ones to recommend you .. ebay.us/3Mt3QN
How long does it take to do this ? Is the modified pump advised in terms of car being able to do a dog re-gen. my limited understanding is that the engine has to have a lot of heat to do regen process.
Id say approx 3 hours to do the job.. there's a lot of parameters that has to be met for the car to do a regen.. it will do it by itself but generally needs to be up to normal temperature and is usually completed on a longish run
Thanks for quick response. Does the gates water pump operate in the same way ? Does it stay closed to assist getting heat into engine quickly ? I run my car for a hour twice a day on daily commute.23 mile journey. Just want to be sure giving car best opportunity to do re-gen every time I drive it 🙃
yeah your run will be ideal, It will be regening no problem at them distances .. no the gates water pump does away with the function all together .. the function is nothing to do with regening though , its simply to get the engine up to temp quicker (to 90 degrees) whilst regening its not the actual engine that needs to be hot.. its the Dpf in the exhaust system.. the fuel quantity through the injectors is increased which allows excess unburnt fuel to pass into the exhaust system and it burns up in the Dpf filter to clear it out.
Excellent video. A must watch before tackling the job on my audi. Could you confirm what the torque value would be for the 4 bolts in the crankshaft pulley.? Are they normally single use?
Thanks for the comment , glad you liked it! Officially they say renew the bolts .. 10nm then 90 degrees .. tbh I always re use them tho and have never had a problem
hey dude on them my car coolant is fine car keeps saying overheating and coolant issue. I want to change the temp sensor is it on the passenges with a green head sensor?
I wouldn’t like to say 100% without looking but yeah that sounds like the right one , I would expect it to have a green head and usually be sat in / near the stat housing .. also it’ll probly have 2 temp sensors
Thanks for a great and informative video! These engines are known to have issues with the crank seal. Is there any 'criteria' for assessing if the leak is 'normal' vs leading to cam belt failure?
Got to be honest, I’ve never replaced one! Yet have done 100s of belt and never really seen one leaking, if it’s slightly damp it won’t be an issue but if causing a drip you will need to replace it
@@mikariikonen612 the crankshaft seal is in fact known to fail , the warranty replaced one , then a replaced when i did the timing belt for an oem one (kaco brand) . Last month i replaced the clutch and decided to replace the 2 crankshaft seals , the flywheel side for prevention (it was good) and the belt was leaking again , so i bought a elring seal to see how long will last . I hate the fact that this ea288 engine work with the belt on the edge of the pulleys , im going to check late this year for premature wear on the belt . Btw , the oem for this belt is continental or dayco ?
@@Danidasanic Thanks for your input. The problem is well known here in Finland. Not an epidemic, but a widely known issue anyway. One question: since the seal is in a plastic insert, can you replace only the seal, or is it always the plastic part which needs to be replaced?
@@mikariikonen612 the Seal is a one part piece that rests on the sump and it's not cheap! My idea was to buy victor reinz seals for the crankshaft but I didn't manage to find any shop with that particular seal in stock , so I've bought a victor reinz RMS and elring MS XD , I recommend you to remove the sump to do the proper way . for instalation you can buy the original tool" t10053 or do it like I did , using a plastic guide that came with the main seal for a 1.6 tdi CAYC engine (old gen) . The first seal that I replaced in this engine was the injectors seals , I think that is quite common to fail too
the manufactures handbook says 130k miles with no mention of age. This is accepted in other countries but not in the UK.The US and Germany follow that limit but often change at 10 years if mielage not reached. I'm on 100k and 9 years and the belt looks good but will change next year
I don’t usually replace the studs on the later ones as long as it looks ok and hasn’t been over tightened or the thread look damaged .. they were an issue on the earlier engines.. if you do replace it i think the torque setting is 15-20nm but im not 100% sure .. it’s not listed on autodata
@@diydaly you are correct , its 15Nm just like for the ea189 engines but vw doesnt have any info regarding the studs on this generation so we dont need to replace them. Do you know the oem for the belt you replaced on this video ?
I have 2016 seat leon 1.6tdi. The car is 5years old this year and I have 96k km on the clock. Is it okay if I drive for another 2-3 months before replacing the timing belt?
Hi lukasz! If it was over on the mileage I’d say no but your usually pretty safe on age tbf .. Ive seen a lot of VAG group cars 2-3 years over the due date without having any issues. Not sure why the mileage intervals are soo high with the time interval being relatively short compared to most.. you should be fine for 2/3 months mate 👍
the manufactures handbook says 130k miles with no mention of age. This is accepted in other countries but not in the UK.The US and Germany follow that limit but often change at 10 years if mielage not reached. I'm on 100k and 9 years and the belt looks good but will change next year
@@martina4226 Yes ive come across this before, AutoData says 5 years or 140,000 .. but ive seen a OE handbook say 10 years / 140,000.. Can be misleading.. I always go off Autodata recommendations
Don't want to take away from the excellent video you have made but I think the public have been played big time in being duped into these expensive uneccesay belt changes which often result in poor workmanship. Think I will change it my self after watching this
@@diydaly see Dayco are offering 125000 Miles warranty on their belts, including DiYers with no time limits mentioned ,Seems to be for north American market but will follow that up for European sales
Hi, it might just be me but there seems to be some conflicting info with the water pump bolt torque settings. Your video shows 40Nm but your description with torque settings says 20Nm plus 45 degrees. 40Nm seems a bit on the high side. I'm asking because I'm doing the cambelt while watching your excellent video.
Hi James thanks for pointing that out! ive filled it in wring in the description, just double checked on autodata & it is 40NM 👍 ive edited it now thanks
Excellent video. Many thanks. However, I feel 40Nm is far too much for the water pump. In fact, I sheared off the top bolt! Fortunately it was easy to remove with a right angle drill and an easy-out. I replaced the bolts with my own fixings, backed with internal shake washers and torqued it by feel! 👍
Problem is guys - if you are professional- you must replaced the crank seal as well- 1.6d on this engine they all leak - in your video they are leak . You just do the simple job , after for a while all cam-belt will be again with oil all around. Crap job . Thanks 🙏 and sorry
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Torque Settings :
Water pump bolts (x3) 20nm is + 45 degrees
Timing belt idler (upper) = 20nm
Timing belt Idler (lower) = 20nm
Timing belt tensioner = 20 NM + 45 Degrees
Wheel bolts = 120 NM
Truly excellent video. No annoying background music. Many thanks.
Thanks for the comment Brian, much appreciated 👌👍
I don't think I have seen a better tutorial than this on TH-cam. Brilliant
Nice one , thanks for the comment 👍
I come from Germany and my English is not the best, but I understood everything thanks to the very good camera work. thanks for the video
You are welcome!
Absolutely superb video. Format & editing made job super easy to follow and understand. Can't praise enough.
Thanks ms for the feedback, much appreciated 👍 glad to help 👌
Still unsure if I will attempt this myself, if I do its because Im using your video for every step. Thanks for this
You should not attempt if you have not the special tools for timing. Beware
It just blows my mind that they run the water pump from the timing belt, especially as you need to remove the aux belt to get to the timing belt. So the water pump has gone on my leon and thus I have to go through all this for a part that always fails, such a bad design to my mind. So thanks very much for this video tutorial, give me confidence to go and tackle this job now, wish me luck ;-)
Yeah it’s a pain mate! Hopefully this will help you get the job done though! 👌👍
@@diydaly so quick bit of advice on the timing belt cover, if you unscrew the metal plate off first and pull this out, a lot easier !
@@grahameida7163 Thanks 👍
Subscribed! Octavia 2014,1.6 tdi, 77kw,i believe its the same like this engine, the whole procedure! Thank you
Thanks for the sub! 👍👌
Thanks
Excellent videography. I'm assuming 2l TDI cr 2014 is the same set up. Have to buy a new locking set as last I did one was on my PD engine
Brilliant vid, no messin and nice and clear, cheers fella!
Thanks for the comment , glad to help 👍👍
Absolutely brilliant video, just a quick one is this the same for a Audi A1 1.6tdi sline?? Many thanks
Yeah willl be pretty much the same
number 1 mechanic, thank you Sir
Thanks mate 👍👌
Great video - i think its one of the clearest and best filmed on youtube so well done. One question: when i have set the tensioner correctly then rotated the engine (manually) the tensioner goes out of alignment! is this normal or is the tensioner to blame (its still the orginal one)
Thanks for the comment! feedback is much appreciated 👍 yeah that's normal mate 👌👌
@@diydaly that's a relief! many thanks again
@@roly7773 no probs! 👍
Some mechanics recommended change oil pump belt when do this maintnaince
Great video. Just two things, when I do the same timing belt I unscrew the pulley of HP pump and cameshaft...and in your video I haven't seen that...especially for adjust correctly the tension of the belt. Or I have not well watched your video...TY
Thanks , yeah you can slacken both the hp pump and the camshaft the pulleys , I used to do it on the earlier style (3 bolt setup) but I never do on these later ones with the single screw, I find it really
Easy to do without and never have any issues getting the timing bang on
This job took me 5 hours to do, what wastes the time is trying to crack off some really hard to get to bolts here and there and also the lack of a 16mm Long socket for the engine mounts. but all working ok. So on mine the bearing on the water pump had destroyed itself and collapsed, there were many ball bearings around, so the crank was nearly one tooth out on the existing belt.
At least you got it sorted mate, never has a pump completely collapse on one of these later engines tbf , had plenty of the earlier ones fail where the plastic impeller cracked and wouldn't spin
Enjoyed your video thanks. How long would this procedure take for a moderately competent diy mechanic?
If you gave yourself 4 hours should be ok
What is correct torque to these:Water pump bolts (x3) 20nm is + 45 degrees or 40nm in video? Great video!
Hi mate , it’s listed in the description for you , the wp bolts are 40nm
Nice video very detailed and helpful, have you any experience on I.6TDI CAY CR oil pump and belt changes?
I have heard that sometimes the belt degrades and clogs the oil pickup hence low oil pressure etc.
Any advice or info most appreciated
👍 thanks! Tbh I’ve never replaced one! Had a lot of experience with them but never known one to fail yet .. although like you I have come across people speaking of it
Done fair number of those belts and I don’t mind doing them apart from removing that top cover 😩 like you i remove the temp sensor and even the little heat shield from the cover itself what a sod they can be I’ve Brocken a few in the process 😩
Haha I know there a right c**t 🤣 I’m sure the correct procedure to remove it is to take dpf off.. I’d still rather struggle with the cover the spend however long raving the dpf off haha .. I’ve trimmed that bit off the cover in the past to make it easier to refit too 👍
You dont need to broke them , its easier to remove or install them without the engine mount . Do you know the oem for the timing belt? Looks like a dayco belt but someone once told me that is a continental belt
I thought you had to use vcds or similar to bleed the cooling system on these?
O can easily be done , o need for vcds
Very helpful video. Can you tell me the torque figure for the crank pulley bolts please?
👍 I’ll try find o it
Ill be doing my 1.6tdi caya soon, my question is ill be replacing my hpfp as the same time as my current one is whining, these pumps do that need timing or do i just replace and pin it?
Yeah you can just pin the pump up mate
Thankyou for the excellent video what’s the quality of the gates kit like
spot on, I always use the gates kits mate, never had an issue yet
@@diydaly perfect mate thanks a lot they are actually made near me. Going to do my timing kit this the cars gone 8 years with the original from a previous owner!
@@Nypartcannon 👍👍 yeah sightly over due then😬 haha
Thanks for your videos. VW recommended to loosen camshaft pully and high pressure pump pully . How is it not much necessary to loosen them ? Could you please explain it,so I'll be very confident to start the work.
Yeah they do recommend if but I very rarely do it on this engine code , we’ve replaced 100s without , if you do want to do it with loosening you will need a pulley hold-all tool to hold it while you undo the centre nuts
@@diydaly Thanks
@@rosejuttancroos8081 👍
Well presented and very helpful
Glad to help , thanks for the comment 😁👍
Great video, very informative.
I have a question, I done this without tools. I was told that the fuel pump doest need to be timed only the crank and cam. Job done cars runs and drivers perfectly.
I have the glow plug light now on the dash with fault code P242A00: Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor, active/static. Recon this could be related to the fuel pump? Its odd that it came up as soon as I started the car after doing the belt. Any info would be much appreciated
the fuel pump should be set in the position where it locks with the pin mate, I wouldn't expect it to bring that fault up, check your exhaust temp sensor though.. its easy to damage them when removing the top timing belt cover!
Excellent job mate
Thank you! Appreciated 👍
Cómo purgas el sistema de refrigeración? Utilizas algún sistema como vagcom ? En teoría tengo entendido que es así, no?
Could you translate to English? Thanks 👍
Mint job mate, does both the timing belt and water pump have to be done together?
You can just fit a belt but it’s highly advisable to do the water pump unless it’s recently been done
If you fit the new belt, rotate the engine twice and the tensioner is slightly to the left is it ok to undo the tensioner adjust and bolt it up again 20nm +45. I have loosened the Cam and FP, all was still in time but the tensioner is out.
Yeah you can do if need be mate 👍
Great video sir! I have a question, could you help me out? I've recently bought a Golf 7.5 1.6 TDI, 2019. It has 234000 kilometers on dashboard so today I've decided to change the timing belt and water pump, as I wasn't sure if these parts had been changed by the previous owner. Now I have an error "P199E00 cylinder head coolant valve open circuit.", which I've found with OBDELEVEN. Local shop installed non OEM parts KDP 457.790 but they should install KDP 457.790S kit which has electronically controlled water pump, so I assume that could be the reason for this error, right? Is it something serious or I can live with it and drive my car without concern? Also, I have an error B15EC14 and my front parking sensors and park pilot don't work and P040100 (insufficient EGR flow). Probably mechanic in local shop damaged some harness or sensor during the timing belt change... 😓
I would say something’s been done to the wiring as the new pump although not electronic will have a housing to fit the sensor into .. it will still operate as normal (just not actually do anything) thus the ecu does not detect a fault .. egr fault is likely to be the egr cooler
the best vedio ever i saw thanke you
👍👍
I know this is a DIY page but i don’t have all the tools, jack and confidence. Is this something you do as a paid service? And if so where are you based? And how much would the cost be for this exact job?
Hi im afraid I only do it in my spare time mate
Nice video! 1 question though…on a Audi a1 2011 1.6tdi cr 105hp the cambelt tensioner stud is still prone to fail, or it has been revised? Do you have to replace it when you do the timing belt?
Many thanks
You should be ok on that model, always check the stud condition but I dont often replace them, its more the earlier style that fail
Great video - really clear and informative. I have a Seat Leon petrol 1.4tsi - i understand that the cam belt needs to be changed every 5 years? or 80,000 miles? not sure my local garage is accurate on this?
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated 👍. yeah they are correct , a lot of VAG group vehicles seem to be due every 5 years regardless of mileage 👌👍
@@diydaly Hi. 0.375 sync okay at 90C? 1.6 cayc
I would have thought the lettering on the timing belt should have finished up in the same position when you turned the engine around twice
Hi I noticed you don't use genuine vw spares. Do you think the gates set is as good as there seems to be a he'll of a price difference. Thanks in advance David
They I really rate the gates kits.. I’ve used them for years.. if I was giving the choice not paying obviously I’d prefer OE parts but otherwise I always aim to fit the gates kits .. it’s worth checking sometimes as TPS trade price for some or the OE kits can be quite good!
@@diydalyHi thanks for responding .Regards David
Great video, very well explained.
Can you tell why there is oil in the engine?
I have a audi a3 with the same motor and the oil is in the same places.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated, I presume you mean the minor oil leaks?
@@diydaly yes, that's it.
@@33siroco very minor leaks, but they are just common areas on these engines
crankshaft seel leak
Hello buddy, how many mileage can be changed the time belt volkswagen tdi??
there's a lot of variations depending on the exact engine code / model etc
Nice video! I just got a question, the manual says that you need to loosen the camshaft and fuel pump bolts before tensioning the new belt. Do you think that is necessary?
I used to do that all the time on the earlier engine (with the 3 securing bolts) the idea is to give a nice tensioner all round but on these later ones I’ve never bothers , as doing it the way I do it’s always been ok and had nice tension all round
@@diydaly Thanks for your video and reply!
👍
@@diydaly Hello, why does the timing synchronization change from 1.2 on a cold engine to 0.4 on a warm 90 C? Is the timing correctly installed? 1.6 tdi cayc engine ....
@@Sensei948are you talking about the torq value in vcds ?
Hey loved the video as visual can speak a million words are the torque setting for this car be the same for the mk6 golf cr 2.0..I'm struggling to find them any help appreciated 😀
Thanks Andy ! Comments much appreciated , yeah the will be the same.. I’ve got another video doing the same job on a mk7 golf 2.0 , they are near enough the same though 👍
@@diydaly welcome well deserves them 👏 and brilliant I will note these down I did see on this one that the cam gear could possibly be different oppose to the 3 bolts style.. have you will look forwards to seeing the mk7..awesome work thanks again
@@andychapman5217 👍👍 thanks, glad it will help
Quality video thank you. Do you recommend the Gates kits? Thanks
Thanks😁 yeah I always prefer to fit the gates kits , I have used other brands but much prefer to use gates or oe 👍
@@diydaly thanks very much my friend who is a trained mechanic loves the gates stuff too. Looking forward to having a go at my 1.6 tdi Passat now CAYC.
@@richardstokes755 👍👌 good luck with it
Very informative, brilliant video.
Thanks pat 👍👍👌
El reten del cigueñal perdía aceite, hubiera sido una buena oportunidad para reemplazarlo.
Yes unfornataly I was doing it at night and it needed to be back on the road asap
i have a 1.4 tsi from 2014. is it the same procedure and are the locking tools absolutely necessary?
No it can quite easily be done without
@diydaly thanks for the quick reply.
Just to make sure, is the tsi version the same procedure?
@@LaithAliraqi97 are sorry just seen it’s tsi! No it’s completely diffenent mate.. you will need the timing kit for that
@@diydaly yeah I have got the timing kit and water pump, I was just wondering if the installation is the same.
@@LaithAliraqi97 no I’m afraid it’s very different , there all floating pulleys and you need to lock em on the back of the cams
how much did you pay for the
torque wrench and if you recomend a web site to buy
I use the snap on one , bought directly off the van as her visits the workshop every week.. I attached a link to the same one on eBay .. the snap on one is a mega bit of kit and does both torque and angle but is also the most expensive! I’ve not had a lot of experience with any cheaper ones to recommend you .. ebay.us/3Mt3QN
Great video as always
Appreciate that👍👍
How long does it take to do this ? Is the modified pump advised in terms of car being able to do a dog re-gen. my limited understanding is that the engine has to have a lot of heat to do regen process.
Id say approx 3 hours to do the job.. there's a lot of parameters that has to be met for the car to do a regen.. it will do it by itself but generally needs to be up to normal temperature and is usually completed on a longish run
Thanks for quick response. Does the gates water pump operate in the same way ? Does it stay closed to assist getting heat into engine quickly ? I run my car for a hour twice a day on daily commute.23 mile journey. Just want to be sure giving car best opportunity to do re-gen every time I drive it 🙃
yeah your run will be ideal, It will be regening no problem at them distances .. no the gates water pump does away with the function all together .. the function is nothing to do with regening though , its simply to get the engine up to temp quicker (to 90 degrees) whilst regening its not the actual engine that needs to be hot.. its the Dpf in the exhaust system.. the fuel quantity through the injectors is increased which allows excess unburnt fuel to pass into the exhaust system and it burns up in the Dpf filter to clear it out.
Excellent video.
A must watch before tackling the job on my audi.
Could you confirm what the torque value would be for the 4 bolts in the crankshaft pulley.? Are they normally single use?
Thanks for the comment , glad you liked it! Officially they say renew the bolts .. 10nm then 90 degrees .. tbh I always re use them tho and have never had a problem
Thanks!
hey dude on them my car coolant is fine car keeps saying overheating and coolant issue. I want to change the temp sensor is it on the passenges with a green head sensor?
I wouldn’t like to say 100% without looking but yeah that sounds like the right one , I would expect it to have a green head and usually be sat in / near the stat housing .. also it’ll probly have 2 temp sensors
@@diydaly hey pal thanks just now my car has lost all coolant again ive changed the tank idk what it can be really stuck pal
@@adamvama4792 I really couldn’t say without looking mate.. it’s abit of a minefield .. there’s a lot of issues that it could be
@@diydaly do you have a garage im based in bolton mate
@@adamvama4792 I’m in Lincolnshire mate , work for a garage 👍
Thanks for a great and informative video!
These engines are known to have issues with the crank seal. Is there any 'criteria' for assessing if the leak is 'normal' vs leading to cam belt failure?
Got to be honest, I’ve never replaced one! Yet have done 100s of belt and never really seen one leaking, if it’s slightly damp it won’t be an issue but if causing a drip you will need to replace it
@@diydaly Okay - it is a known failure in cold conditions. Quite a few examples of missing teeth on the belt and consequent engine failure.
@@mikariikonen612 the crankshaft seal is in fact known to fail , the warranty replaced one , then a replaced when i did the timing belt for an oem one (kaco brand) . Last month i replaced the clutch and decided to replace the 2 crankshaft seals , the flywheel side for prevention (it was good) and the belt was leaking again , so i bought a elring seal to see how long will last . I hate the fact that this ea288 engine work with the belt on the edge of the pulleys , im going to check late this year for premature wear on the belt . Btw , the oem for this belt is continental or dayco ?
@@Danidasanic Thanks for your input. The problem is well known here in Finland. Not an epidemic, but a widely known issue anyway. One question: since the seal is in a plastic insert, can you replace only the seal, or is it always the plastic part which needs to be replaced?
@@mikariikonen612 the Seal is a one part piece that rests on the sump and it's not cheap! My idea was to buy victor reinz seals for the crankshaft but I didn't manage to find any shop with that particular seal in stock , so I've bought a victor reinz RMS and elring MS XD , I recommend you to remove the sump to do the proper way . for instalation you can buy the original tool" t10053 or do it like I did , using a plastic guide that came with the main seal for a 1.6 tdi CAYC engine (old gen) . The first seal that I replaced in this engine was the injectors seals , I think that is quite common to fail too
My 1.6tdi timing belt was changed at 131.000 miles that was 4 years ago. Is it true that i should change it every 5 years?
Thanks for the comment , yeah I’m afraid he interval is every 5 years regardless of mileage 👍
the manufactures handbook says 130k miles with no mention of age. This is accepted in other countries but not in the UK.The US and Germany follow that limit but often change at 10 years if mielage not reached. I'm on 100k and 9 years and the belt looks good but will change next year
Gates timing belt kits have stud inside,
should i replace tensioner stud at the same time?
what is the torque setting?
I don’t usually replace the studs on the later ones as long as it looks ok and hasn’t been over tightened or the thread look damaged .. they were an issue on the earlier engines.. if you do replace it i think the torque setting is 15-20nm but im not 100% sure .. it’s not listed on autodata
@@diydaly thanks for reply
@@lp128frank 👍
@@diydaly you are correct , its 15Nm just like for the ea189 engines but vw doesnt have any info regarding the studs on this generation so we dont need to replace them. Do you know the oem for the belt you replaced on this video ?
@@Danidasanic thanks for confirming 👍 do you mean the oe part number? Thanks
I Loose camshaft and pump before seting tencion
Great job , learned a lot.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello
20 nm on the idlers with 45 on the main one
40 nm on the water pump
Is that right please
Yes mate , should all be listed in the video description
@@diydaly thanks again it all went perfectly because of your video take care
@@ian.woodcock nice one , glad it helped 👍👍
Thanks for posting
No problem! thanks for the comment 👍
In which kilometers need to replace timing belt? It is true that in 210k km ?
yeah I believe the dealer states 140,000 miles or 5 years which ever comes 1st
How much do you charge for this job on a 1.6TDI golf??
At the garage using all gates parts with a new aux belt you are usually around the £450 area mate
Hi,the engine is coold or hot
it was cold but doesn't matter hot or cold
@@diydaly its very important for the best tenzioner because when the engine is hoot the tenzioner is over the gab.vw recomand at engine cold
@@mohamedtaleb3114 thanks for the info
Hi mate fantastic video!! What was the engine code of this engine?
Thanks! 👍👌 This was CXXB its the same procedure for quite a few engine codes mate
Bună demonstrație!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it! thanks for the comment 👍👌
I have 2016 seat leon 1.6tdi. The car is 5years old this year and I have 96k km on the clock. Is it okay if I drive for another 2-3 months before replacing the timing belt?
Hi lukasz! If it was over on the mileage I’d say no but your usually pretty safe on age tbf .. Ive seen a lot of VAG group cars 2-3 years over the due date without having any issues. Not sure why the mileage intervals are soo high with the time interval being relatively short compared to most.. you should be fine for 2/3 months mate 👍
the manufactures handbook says 130k miles with no mention of age. This is accepted in other countries but not in the UK.The US and Germany follow that limit but often change at 10 years if mielage not reached. I'm on 100k and 9 years and the belt looks good but will change next year
@@martina4226 Yes ive come across this before, AutoData says 5 years or 140,000 .. but ive seen a OE handbook say 10 years / 140,000.. Can be misleading.. I always go off Autodata recommendations
Don't want to take away from the excellent video you have made but I think the public have been played big time in being duped into these expensive uneccesay belt changes which often result in poor workmanship. Think I will change it my self after watching this
@@diydaly see Dayco are offering 125000 Miles warranty on their belts, including DiYers with no time limits mentioned ,Seems to be for north American market but will follow that up for European sales
Is the procedure much different for a 2011 vw 1.6tdi bluemotion?
Should be nearly the same mate
Et the belt oil pump ?
pretty sure the oil pumps on a chain inside the sump on this engine mate
Hi, it might just be me but there seems to be some conflicting info with the water pump bolt torque settings. Your video shows 40Nm but your description with torque settings says 20Nm plus 45 degrees. 40Nm seems a bit on the high side. I'm asking because I'm doing the cambelt while watching your excellent video.
Hi James thanks for pointing that out! ive filled it in wring in the description, just double checked on autodata & it is 40NM 👍 ive edited it now thanks
@@diydaly Thanks for the quick reply. Belts and water pump etc all fitted now following your guide. Cheers.
Nice one , glad to help .. thanks for the update 😁👌👍
Excellent video. Many thanks. However, I feel 40Nm is far too much for the water pump. In fact, I sheared off the top bolt! Fortunately it was easy to remove with a right angle drill and an easy-out. I replaced the bolts with my own fixings, backed with internal shake washers and torqued it by feel! 👍
I've seen on haynes pro 20nm and 45 degres but when you put the 45 degres more I think at the end we are not far of 40nm...I think the 2 are corrects
Great vid m8 👍🏻
Many thanks! comments much appreciated 😃👌
Огромное СПАСИБО!!!!!!!!!!!!
👍
Buen trabajo. Gracias
Thanks for the comment 👌👍
That exhaust temp sensor and the top timing civer are a bastard to remove
I can usually get the sensor out ok but the top cover is a t***! 🤣 ive trimmed the back section of it a few times to make it easier to refit
the difference between a retractable and a non-retractable pump.
Will take slightly longer to warm up from cold that’s all
"It's actually a little bit tight on this model"
Understatement of the century. That top cover is an absolute pig - it's not even funny.
Problem is guys - if you are professional- you must replaced the crank seal as well- 1.6d on this engine they all leak - in your video they are leak . You just do the simple job , after for a while all cam-belt will be again with oil all around. Crap job .
Thanks 🙏 and sorry
sorry you dont like it
I have this exact issue. Seems quite common on these models for the crank oil seal to go. I think you have to replace the whole seal and unit as well.
Doctor👍👏
👍 thanks
Nice
Thanks
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
👍👌 thanks
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
thanks again!😃😃👍
2015. and the engine is oily around the pan f*** that
Thanks for the watch
All tht big job and did not change leaking crank cover and oil pump wet belt 🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
I thought you had to use vcds or similar to bleed the cooling system on these?
Great video
Thanks!
I thought you had to use vcds or similar to bleed the cooling system on these?
Great video! Thanks a lot!
You are welcome!