Nice to (finally) see someone acknowledge that the recipe hasn't changed. See far too many here on YT or over on FaceBook claiming "The new recipe is so much better" or "The new recipe is not as good as the old one". In a few cases I've pointed out that it's unchanged but they've still insisted that it has 🤷♂🙄
I've used the AP Tones almost since they were first released, yes including the big tins! When using them on a miniature I will always add some medium, Matt Medium works fine, but also some water. They have a good open time which allows you to move them around and I will take a damp brush and push it away from the top of a shoulder pad for example to keep the highlight nice a bright. Also they don't stain like GW washes do. I've yet to get the new ones, but I think I'll do a board for them as well when I do
I think something definitely changed here. IMO new Red and Blue Tones are far less pigmented than original ones. Dark Red and Dark Blue are closer to what Red and Blue were in the old range. The recipe is the same generally, but the amount of pigment is not. This all means the stain far less than other washes. But the core seems to be basically the same - they still dry glossy if you don't mix them with equal amounts of water (diluting them at the same way). Not a big problem as you should varnish your model anyway. I made simple experiment - painted few textured bases with Two Thin Coats washes and their equvalents from Fanatics line. The funny thing is TTC looked nicer but then I realised that wash is not supposed to stain surface too much. In the end they do the same thing but AP is cheaper and comes in 18ml bottles.
I have not seen any difference on Dark tone, Green Tone, Military Shade and Blue Tone witch is the last of the old stuff i had laying around. I can defiantly confirm the Blue Tone is the same. On my Temple Build i used both the Old and the New Blue tone and they where exactly the same. But to make sure I have ordered the old The Army Painter Quickshade Washes Set at a local Dealer. When I get that one I will make a full comparison test to sort this out once and for all :-)
This test might not be accurate since if you use washes which are towards the end of bottle, they will most likely be pigmented, due to water evaporation and pigments sinking to the bottom.
I appreciate the demo of the different shades. The existing AP washes I have always seem to dry extremely glossy…it’s not a huge deal because I varnish everything anyway, but I’ve often found myself gravitating to Citadel or Pro Acryl washes instead of these. I’m looking forward to giving Rust Tone a try though!
It depends on what im painting. If it is the basecoat of an armour I would use speedpaint. But for details i would use the Fanatic metallics. There is also different colors in both ranges😊@@Bearcaved
@@olebrogger I know I have mixed the speed paint medium with Demonic yellow for Salamanders space marine eye lenses, it let's me have a fairly high level of control over a small amount of yellow without it drying, and helps it not over run the recesses around the eyes. It pulls JUST slightly away from the highest point on the lens, but no where near like an actual speed paint. If the wash medium and a stabilizer/water mix results in a psudeo wash, or even an effective glaze, I would be satisfied with the experiment lol
@@Off_White247 I have tried mix Speedpaint medium width acrylics, and had some mixed results. some worked okay and some did not. but i will try mixing the wash medium with other paints
![[안방1열 직캠4K] 베이비몬스터 치키타 'DRIP' (BABYMONSTER CHIQUITA FanCam) @SBS Inkigayo 241110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tnlxo79cAqY/mqdefault.jpg)
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice to (finally) see someone acknowledge that the recipe hasn't changed. See far too many here on YT or over on FaceBook claiming "The new recipe is so much better" or "The new recipe is not as good as the old one". In a few cases I've pointed out that it's unchanged but they've still insisted that it has 🤷♂🙄
Glad it was helpful! i will see if i can get my hands on some of the old ones and make a comparison test to show they are the same :-)
I've used the AP Tones almost since they were first released, yes including the big tins! When using them on a miniature I will always add some medium, Matt Medium works fine, but also some water. They have a good open time which allows you to move them around and I will take a damp brush and push it away from the top of a shoulder pad for example to keep the highlight nice a bright. Also they don't stain like GW washes do. I've yet to get the new ones, but I think I'll do a board for them as well when I do
I think something definitely changed here. IMO new Red and Blue Tones are far less pigmented than original ones. Dark Red and Dark Blue are closer to what Red and Blue were in the old range. The recipe is the same generally, but the amount of pigment is not. This all means the stain far less than other washes.
But the core seems to be basically the same - they still dry glossy if you don't mix them with equal amounts of water (diluting them at the same way). Not a big problem as you should varnish your model anyway.
I made simple experiment - painted few textured bases with Two Thin Coats washes and their equvalents from Fanatics line. The funny thing is TTC looked nicer but then I realised that wash is not supposed to stain surface too much. In the end they do the same thing but AP is cheaper and comes in 18ml bottles.
I have not seen any difference on Dark tone, Green Tone, Military Shade and Blue Tone witch is the last of the old stuff i had laying around. I can defiantly confirm the Blue Tone is the same. On my Temple Build i used both the Old and the New Blue tone and they where exactly the same. But to make sure I have ordered the old The Army Painter Quickshade Washes Set at a local Dealer. When I get that one I will make a full comparison test to sort this out once and for all :-)
Nice test! I would love to see a comparison - old vs new wash.
Thank you :-) Test is coming soon!
This test might not be accurate since if you use washes which are towards the end of bottle, they will most likely be pigmented, due to water evaporation and pigments sinking to the bottom.
I appreciate the demo of the different shades. The existing AP washes I have always seem to dry extremely glossy…it’s not a huge deal because I varnish everything anyway, but I’ve often found myself gravitating to Citadel or Pro Acryl washes instead of these. I’m looking forward to giving Rust Tone a try though!
The washes needs a good shaking. if they are not shaken well they will dry glossy. that goes for the new ones as well :-)
@@olebrogger do the new shades include a metal ball inside?
@@georgeratkowitz8023 yes there is 2 metal balls in all Fanatic paints
@@georgeratkowitz8023 there is 2metal balls in each bottle in all the fanatic range
Thank you for showcasing these washes! It was very informative and helpful! 👍
Glad i could help :-)
Love this! More metallics videos curious to know what you are doing with them.
thank you :-) I use the metallics a lot. and i use them in other videos of mine :-) and more to come
Do you prefer the Fanatic Metallics or the Speedpaint Metallics. I don’t know which is best to use when.
It depends on what im painting. If it is the basecoat of an armour I would use speedpaint. But for details i would use the Fanatic metallics. There is also different colors in both ranges😊@@Bearcaved
Great review ...thank you
Thanks 😀
Hypothetically, could you add wash medium to a thinned down normal line paint, and made rudimentary washes of any colour?
Have never tried that, dont think Acrylic would work, but maybe speedpaints. Have to test them both🤔
@@olebrogger I know I have mixed the speed paint medium with Demonic yellow for Salamanders space marine eye lenses, it let's me have a fairly high level of control over a small amount of yellow without it drying, and helps it not over run the recesses around the eyes. It pulls JUST slightly away from the highest point on the lens, but no where near like an actual speed paint. If the wash medium and a stabilizer/water mix results in a psudeo wash, or even an effective glaze, I would be satisfied with the experiment lol
@@Off_White247 I have tried mix Speedpaint medium width acrylics, and had some mixed results. some worked okay and some did not. but i will try mixing the wash medium with other paints
Extensive test and very useful. Thank you.
You are welcome!
good job bro, that was really helpfull for me
Thank You :-) Glad to hear that :-)
Great vid!
Thank you 😀