Edit: So I explained something a bit wrong... The car being lowered might cause certain sway bars to tap the lower rear floor board or spare tire area when the suspension travels upwards, not the ground. Lowered or not, the bars that go straight across reduce the clearance from the floorboards to the ground by 2-3".
If you drive in snow and salt I’d recommend getting some rust converter spray paint and a wire brush. Brush all the rust spots under the car and then wash it. Then spray paint all the areas you brushed. I’d also remove the sway bar and spray the converter around the places of metal contact then reinstall.
Thank you. I covered the wheel wells and some other areas in protective coating when I first got the car. I never removed the skid tray to fully do the underneath though. It is on the list to do, but some where with a lift.
Late to the party on this one… If I do nothing else to my stock GE8, would you say this is the number #1 thing to do to increase my enjoyment driving my Fit?
Hi GK5 owner here, GE8's handling is already absolutely amazing, better than GK5, at least. I'm doing this install **tomorrow** for my GK5, but from what I've read from other fit owners, rear sway bars decrease understeer and slightly lower ride quality in the back half. I'd say absolutely do it. It's literally a bolt-on addition for less than $300. If you're like me and also picky about ride quality, save up for a nice set of shocks/struts as well. Cheaper than coilovers and more predictable, easier to install, and a better ride quality (generally).
What model GE8 do you have? Base, Sport etc? From my understanding, the sport already comes with a rear sway bar. It's possibly built into the rear subframe. "Mechanically the difference between the sport and base is the sport includes a rear sway bar, base model doesn't." ~FitFreaks.net The sway bar is nice, but I would personally go with a Pedal Commander or some type of throttle response controller. This video I made will explain why th-cam.com/video/pcW1P0naIrk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DmI99_x5FvsirgF6&t=155
We need to see what model Honda Fit BroHogan has first. If he has the Sport model, he may not even need the rear sway bar. My rear seats have been removed for quite some time, so I have no input on the ride quality decreasing in the back.
@@broganhogan3469 yeah after about a week, I can say that the ride quality is negligibly different. I drive on extremely rough roads and feel most drivers/passengers won't even be able to tell the difference! Doesn't beat that confidence boost your car gets for sure
Nice job! Off topic but I was wondering if I may ask.. I have a loud metallic ratteling sound when I accelerate. Honda tells me it's not the heat shield.. any ideas on what it could be?? Its gets louder as the car gets hot.
Sounds like the heatshield on the cat itself but that's just a ballpark. You mean you paid dealer diag and they couldn't find the issue? I'd take it back
Oh no I did not pay for them to check that. It was in already for an oil change and I asked for them to check, key word is check and they probably did not but it was worth a try. I guess I will have to take it else where for a look. Thanks!
@@margekalogridis3929 Is your car Automatic or Manual? Mine is manual, (Probably doesn't matter) and I hear what sounds like an exhaust rattle occasionally as well. I personally couldn't find anything loose and I only hear it in low RPMs. Maybe I'm shifting to early or I just need a new muffler. We both should try reving the car in neutral and see if someone standing outside the car can identify where the metallic rattle is coming from and take it from there.
@@HondaFit4Adventure that is a great idea, my sister is a car enthusiast as well. If I can catch her maybe she can help me out! I have an automatic. Thanks!
@@HondaFit4AdventureHonda fits are known for exhaust shield rattles, it’s typically the one behind the engine close to the cv axles. Only fix I’ve seen is adding a washer or spacer and tightening it down. My GE had the same problem, added a washer and it was solved
From the rear wheel well, look about 4 inches down the seam weld. You should see a spot where it looks like the metal is doubled up. Place the floor jack there. It's roughly by the first rubber plug on the side skirt.
wouldn't the car being lowered not affect the sway bar hitting the ground? cause its attached to the lower suspension, which doesn't change in height? or am I missing something?
You're right. I explained that wrong. The car being lowered might cause certain sway bars to tap the lower rear floor board or spare tire area when the suspension travels upwards. Lowered or not, the bars that go straight across reduce the clearance from the floorboards to the ground by 2-3". Not that big of a deal while driving straight, but may scrape if taking a steep driveway at an angled approach. (Rare Occasion)
@@HondaFit4Adventure oh, finally someone else who mentioned the bar hitting the spare tire well. I had that problem with the Progress rear bar on my lowered car. And everyone else I talked to said I was nuts. so, thank you for finally vindicated me haha. can't wait to see the install of the other bars. Maybe I can find one that won't hit
1. Shape. Some sway bars go straight across, others like the Progress rear sway bar curve up and out of the way. If you drive a lowered car, the curved bars may smack the bottom of your car or the floor board area so a flat sway bar is recommended. 2. One Piece or Three? Some of the sway bars are one solid piece while others are 3 seperate pieces. (One bar and two plates to mount to the shocks) Most but not all of the straight bars seem to be 3 pieces. I would recommend a solid piece sway bar. Theoretically they would be stronger and have less points of failure under stress. (Bolts) 3. Size. Most rear sway bars came in either 17mm or 19mm 4. Mounting. Every sway bar bolted to the suspension differently by utilising one of several pre-existing holes around the suspension. I'll make a video comparing the Megan Racing 3-Piece to the Super Circuit 3 Piece. I'd like to rotate the different sway bars through winter to see which ones hold up to the salty conditions of the Mid-West
Hey man, do you mind sharing your wheel and tire set up? Are you lowered at all? Trying to find after market wheels and youve got a really nice set up :)
I'm at the stock ride height with stock suspension. The rims are Sparco Terra 16x7 with almost the same offset as stock with a 205/55/16 tire. This is about 1" larger then a stock rim & tire, so it will lift your car up a 1/2" Here's a detailed before and after video comparing 205/50/16 vs 205/55/16 on the Honda Fit th-cam.com/video/wn21IUFnlTQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RgiVr11-mwET9NH4
Edit: So I explained something a bit wrong...
The car being lowered might cause certain sway bars to tap the lower rear floor board or spare tire area when the suspension travels upwards, not the ground.
Lowered or not, the bars that go straight across reduce the clearance from the floorboards to the ground by 2-3".
You’re awesome, thank you so much for this quality work/content.
Thank You!
If you drive in snow and salt I’d recommend getting some rust converter spray paint and a wire brush. Brush all the rust spots under the car and then wash it. Then spray paint all the areas you brushed. I’d also remove the sway bar and spray the converter around the places of metal contact then reinstall.
Thank you. I covered the wheel wells and some other areas in protective coating when I first got the car.
I never removed the skid tray to fully do the underneath though. It is on the list to do, but some where with a lift.
Por15 would be a better choice for longevity
Nice view, it was really good on showing the difference 👍
Thank You!
Late to the party on this one…
If I do nothing else to my stock GE8, would you say this is the number #1 thing to do to increase my enjoyment driving my Fit?
Hi GK5 owner here, GE8's handling is already absolutely amazing, better than GK5, at least. I'm doing this install **tomorrow** for my GK5, but from what I've read from other fit owners, rear sway bars decrease understeer and slightly lower ride quality in the back half.
I'd say absolutely do it. It's literally a bolt-on addition for less than $300. If you're like me and also picky about ride quality, save up for a nice set of shocks/struts as well. Cheaper than coilovers and more predictable, easier to install, and a better ride quality (generally).
What model GE8 do you have? Base, Sport etc? From my understanding, the sport already comes with a rear sway bar. It's possibly built into the rear subframe.
"Mechanically the difference between the sport and base is the sport includes a rear sway bar, base model doesn't." ~FitFreaks.net
The sway bar is nice, but I would personally go with a Pedal Commander or some type of throttle response controller.
This video I made will explain why th-cam.com/video/pcW1P0naIrk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DmI99_x5FvsirgF6&t=155
We need to see what model Honda Fit BroHogan has first. If he has the Sport model, he may not even need the rear sway bar.
My rear seats have been removed for quite some time, so I have no input on the ride quality decreasing in the back.
@@broganhogan3469 yeah after about a week, I can say that the ride quality is negligibly different. I drive on extremely rough roads and feel most drivers/passengers won't even be able to tell the difference! Doesn't beat that confidence boost your car gets for sure
Nice job! Off topic but I was wondering if I may ask.. I have a loud metallic ratteling sound when I accelerate. Honda tells me it's not the heat shield.. any ideas on what it could be?? Its gets louder as the car gets hot.
Sounds like the heatshield on the cat itself but that's just a ballpark. You mean you paid dealer diag and they couldn't find the issue? I'd take it back
Oh no I did not pay for them to check that. It was in already for an oil change and I asked for them to check, key word is check and they probably did not but it was worth a try. I guess I will have to take it else where for a look. Thanks!
@@margekalogridis3929 Is your car Automatic or Manual?
Mine is manual, (Probably doesn't matter) and I hear what sounds like an exhaust rattle occasionally as well.
I personally couldn't find anything loose and I only hear it in low RPMs.
Maybe I'm shifting to early or I just need a new muffler.
We both should try reving the car in neutral and see if someone standing outside the car can identify where the metallic rattle is coming from and take it from there.
@@HondaFit4Adventure that is a great idea, my sister is a car enthusiast as well. If I can catch her maybe she can help me out! I have an automatic. Thanks!
@@HondaFit4AdventureHonda fits are known for exhaust shield rattles, it’s typically the one behind the engine close to the cv axles. Only fix I’ve seen is adding a washer or spacer and tightening it down. My GE had the same problem, added a washer and it was solved
Where do you place the floor jack? I can’t for the life of me find a spot that I feel wouldn’t mess anything up.
From the rear wheel well, look about 4 inches down the seam weld. You should see a spot where it looks like the metal is doubled up. Place the floor jack there. It's roughly by the first rubber plug on the side skirt.
wouldn't the car being lowered not affect the sway bar hitting the ground? cause its attached to the lower suspension, which doesn't change in height? or am I missing something?
You're right. I explained that wrong.
The car being lowered might cause certain sway bars to tap the lower rear floor board or spare tire area when the suspension travels upwards.
Lowered or not, the bars that go straight across reduce the clearance from the floorboards to the ground by 2-3".
Not that big of a deal while driving straight, but may scrape if taking a steep driveway at an angled approach. (Rare Occasion)
@@HondaFit4Adventure oh, finally someone else who mentioned the bar hitting the spare tire well. I had that problem with the Progress rear bar on my lowered car. And everyone else I talked to said I was nuts. so, thank you for finally vindicated me haha. can't wait to see the install of the other bars. Maybe I can find one that won't hit
Any news on the comparison between the sway bars?
1. Shape. Some sway bars go straight across, others like the Progress rear sway bar curve up and out of the way.
If you drive a lowered car, the curved bars may smack the bottom of your car or the floor board area so a flat sway bar is recommended.
2. One Piece or Three? Some of the sway bars are one solid piece while others are 3 seperate pieces. (One bar and two plates to mount to the shocks)
Most but not all of the straight bars seem to be 3 pieces.
I would recommend a solid piece sway bar. Theoretically they would be stronger and have less points of failure under stress. (Bolts)
3. Size. Most rear sway bars came in either 17mm or 19mm
4. Mounting. Every sway bar bolted to the suspension differently by utilising one of several pre-existing holes around the suspension.
I'll make a video comparing the Megan Racing 3-Piece to the Super Circuit 3 Piece.
I'd like to rotate the different sway bars through winter to see which ones hold up to the salty conditions of the Mid-West
@@HondaFit4Adventure thanks!
Hey man, do you mind sharing your wheel and tire set up? Are you lowered at all? Trying to find after market wheels and youve got a really nice set up :)
I'm at the stock ride height with stock suspension.
The rims are Sparco Terra 16x7 with almost the same offset as stock with a 205/55/16 tire.
This is about 1" larger then a stock rim & tire, so it will lift your car up a 1/2"
Here's a detailed before and after video comparing 205/50/16 vs 205/55/16 on the Honda Fit th-cam.com/video/wn21IUFnlTQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=RgiVr11-mwET9NH4
If you recall, how long were the spacer tubes? 3/4”?
Nice , do you have the link to buy that? Thanks
ProgressAuto.com
www.progressauto.com/products?searchType=vehicleSearch&year=2015&make=Honda&model=Fit&x=11&y=9
FIRST!
Honda Navi to Florida?!