Daihatsu Charade - Are the brakes worn out?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2021
- Our Daihatsu Charade/Mira/Cuore L251 has started suffering from noisy brakes. Is something amiss? I have a look.
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I always used to wear knee pads at work, which was pretty unusual for a call centre, but the things you have to do to keep your job.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Getting down to some work then.
Hub Nut down on his knees praying for good car luck
The things we have to do!!!!
"Lube and Hope" - sounds like my pre-lockdown Saturday nights XD
Worst solicitors in Aberystwyth.
Haha it sums up most guys hopes lol haha .
Australians with Daihatsu: Today on Mega Oz Mods, we're fitting a 16 valve engine with three turbochargers, 29-inch wheels, and a 10,000 watt stereo to our long-term Charade. We'll also be painting everything we don't upholster.
Hub Nut: Right, so apparently we can't get parts in Wales, but I figure we can sand the rust off, and it will get us to Tesco so we can procure Tea.
I guess I have a bit more use for the ability to visit Tesco, or their local analogue.
Wow, a simple straight forward job! What a blessed relief for you ✨👍
Always a satisfying job. Good work
That stepped pin looked like it was missing a rubber sleeve.
Often a metal olive
This channel is scarily becoming more organised! 😂
Top tip, DON'T waste any money on brakes etc, they look fine for many thousands of miles.
Wait a few weeks, see what the Mot brings. No point spending out on brakes if she fails on emissions which I'm afraid is likely 😯
You beat me to it😄
Regularly pumping that amount of blue smoke into the air isn't good on any level - although yes, it will clearly fail on emissions as it absolutely should.
That’s funny you say that. Completely overhauled my brakes on my Peugeot Partner for the MOT. Failed on the emissions! Which brought me to another thought. If you look under the bonnet of Rita the Rover, you’ll see a sticker with 1.00 and an EU Mark on it. That’s your emissions smoke test level for that car.
@@glennpowell3444
I don't drive as obviously still banged up !
Don't think that's the real point of Hubnut. It's primary function is to bring us entertainment, a task it performs to perfection 😯
....just to say...if that emissions sticker wasn’t there and the emissions limit wasn’t listed on the VIN plate, then the MOT inspector would have to go by the Govt set limit of 1.5
...I think you know where I’m going with this one 😉
Progress made and it didn't go all Hubnut for a change
Good job 👍
Good video Ian on brake work. It is nice to see that you are working to a new routine and that your new outfit is doing well. I am looking forward to seeing you doing a full brakes overhaul with the assistance of Miss Hubnut.
Ok, I suppose it will be quite a galore for innuendos when MissHubnut is going to replace the sliding pins 😎
Hi Ian yet again a great video take care of your self and family 😊👍🏻
Always lube the sliding parts. They will come apart when you need them. Sometimes the disk and the pads develop a glaze on them that makes noise when applied. A little steel wool on the disk and the pads will take care of that and try to use factory pads when available. My Toyota had that squeal from glaze when I had the brakes done at a shop. I found out they used cheap pads. I did them using factory pads and no more squeal. Helpful tips from across the pond. WD-40 spray is also very helpful against damp and wetness as that is what it's designed for. Use it all the time. Great on wiring and other parts. Gets rid of the water and coats the metal. Good Job on your videos and very happy you are including the family. The kids need to learn about this stuff as well.
At the moment, I'd price the brake job up but I wouldn't actually do it yet as I think you're going to be spending a lot of money and time in sorting the engine out - I really can't see it passing an MoT in its current state.
Has the all the crankcase vent system been cleaned and checked yet?
I was thinking the same. I think the mot is only a couple of months away. Like you i also have a feeling the mot tester will not be happy with visible smoke. But it should give Ian some good content material sorting it out! :-)
Would a breakers have a complete Daihatsu engine? One imagines that fitting a used engine and rebuilding the original...or rebuilding a used engine and then fitting it before the MOT would be a fairly straightforward process that would prove economical rather than bandages on a dying powerplant.
@@MrKnowwun He keeps being asked....but no response so far. It's such an obvious one to check isn't it.
Rebuilding many of these Japanese engines is often a waste. The alloy blocks don't take kindly to a rebore. That is why there is a healthy market here in Canada for low mileage engines from Japanese market cars that were scrapped because of the tax laws there. Terribly inefficient and dreadful for the environment, but many perfect cars are scrapped at 5 years old.
Great video again. I really do look forward to your content. I find a lot of R8 this and Lambo thaton TH-cam. This is real world tinkering without the crap. Keep it up.
Received my HubNut Beanie this morning ! Thanks muchly , its just about to go out on its first test drive in the wind and rain :)
Well that didn’t last long....wife ‘Zoinked’ it...just about to order another !
@9:28: "that smells disgusting, I dunno why I sniffed it?!"
I nearly choked on my soup....
Bit weird sniffing a caliper pin!
That was my second favourite clip from the video. 😂👍
That is a neat little car, everytime you show it pretty cool ride.
Copper grease smeared over all moving non friction parts of brake system. Pins, sliders, pad seats, levers and even the back plates of pads. Thats what I was taught when serving my time by my teacher Big Jim. He died last year, great bloke and great mechanic.
Hi Ian ! Lovely. Really. appropriate clothing, appropriate tools ... and discovering something new every other day. And yes: sliding pin calipers are a pain in the butt. But that's what is used nowadays. Cheap. Nice video loved to watch it.
HubNut phrase of the week “lube and hope”. 👍😂
Magnetic tray, blimey efficiency creeping in
Ian, it's always worth cleaning out the pin housings too as the old grunge builds up and can hydro lock the pin. I give mine a good spurt of degreaser and then gently run a drill bit in by hand to get the worse off, followed up by a Mustie1 stylee cotton bud in the drill, works wonders.
Thank you for the translation.
Winter brake jobs are always fun, and rusty, and wet, and usually only done when the noise starts to become extreme. The pads look like they still have a lot of lfe in them though.
A very satisfying action once lubricated
Hi Hubnuts, take it for a pre-MOT check, as others have said emissions look a bit doubtful.
Will do. Probably next month. It doesn't smoke like that all the time thankfully or I wouldn't be driving it!
@@HubNut Is it a diesel ? My mate has a diesel van mostly does 10 / 20 miles a day. For MOT day gets up at 5am, does a trip London to Portsmouth (well the A3 roundabout nearish it ) then back for the MOT, nice warm engine, rings expanded, gunk blown out, MOT pass !!
If it was a diesel quarter of a tank off diesel then add 1 pint off petrol then take it and give it the old Italian tune up...job done..
4.44. Again, Metal wear indicators are on the disc, hence the noise.
How ironic I check my breaks this morning and the lot is worn out and I come home and you are doing breaks Ian brilliant video my friend
Brakes need regular checks. I used to wait till I heard scraping noises..Not recommended.
“Brakes”, not “breaks” FFS- surely it’s not that difficult
@@biffaozzie2373
Afraid it is for some lol.
@@biffaozzie2373 Give him a brake....
Is it just me or from a distance that Ian's new overalls make him look a firefighter?? Excellent video as always and educational as well.
If I'm completely honest the new threads reminded me of someone storming capitol hill.
I shall buy a horned hat...
Something I found useful when working outside both on motorcycles & in the garden is a twin density foam pad purchased from Machine Mart. It is stiff so will not fold but is surprisingly comfortable. It’s just big enough to lie on keeping clothes clean & dry.
( I should have said. I am referring to the larger pad rather than the kneeler version.)
These were on season 1 of Top Gear and it had rave reviews! They loved the dodgy greeting on the dash.
No lube on slidey parts? The people who say that must be quite sore the day after... :P
*BRACE YOURSELF DORETHY!* 😰😂
Ian I always get a mechanic hammer and tap the outer edge of the disc to chip off that flaking metal. When it comes off when the brakes are in use you do get horrible noises. Put goggles on for this adventure. 😉
Looking very professional in your new uniform 🥋
Valve guide seals? Would be my first port of call before srtipping the engine also check the breather valve.
Pretty sure its the valve guide seals. As far as i remember from other videos, the smoke is worse when it has been idling, and goes away when driving at higher rpms.... pretty typical for bad valve guide seals to my knowledge. If it was worn rings og stuck oil rings, it would smoke more and more with more rpm, as the crank throws more and more oil at the cylinderwalls. So my bet is that the oil comes from the top of the engine, and most likely from those umbrella valve guide seals, especially since there is no signs of a blown headgasket. Its usually not really that bad of a job to do, you don't need to remove the head, but you do need some special tools for pressurising the cylinders, and compressing the springs on the valves. Can be tricky though, depending on how the design of the camshaft/lifters.
Atleast there are not too many valves in a 3 cylinder engine ;)
Only something like a leak-down compression test might tell us more. I initially though valve guides, but it seems to need a real diagnosis. I ran an old Mazda with bad valve guides for years, until all the additives and thicker oil eventually blew something else, being the daily beater.
Like those two old railway wagons in the background. Would make a fantastic shed.
Engine strip down project would make good viewing Hubnut style. Great show.
Very professional. High visibility inserts, tidy jacket, magnetic parts tray, lubrication and just needed freeing up but I think we will do a complete brake overhaul. May have opened the wrong video, it sounded like Ian though.
I confess I lay out a linen dust sheet folded up to kneel on when working on brakes and wheels...and I have knee pads as well. As long as it's not chucking it down its so much more comfortable on the old knees.
The other week Lidl had wire wheels for the angle grinder going for like £4 each, they're quite good for rusty things 👍
Almost spat my tea out at “don’t know why I sniffed it”. You’re great entertainment.
When I did a similar job on my Hyundai brakes the pins with the cut out sections in the end housed rubber sleeves for the pins to slide in. Two came out still on the end of the pin and two were firmly stuck in the calliper. Maybe the same with yours? My pins also had to be hammered out followed by a sanding and lubing. Sold the car shorty after so no idea how long that lasted but it did fix severely sticking callipers.
We started to get a lot of grinding noises from our Mazda and I changed the pads on the offside front, but the old pads had plenty of life in them. Went to the nearside front and they were down to just the very top of the rivets!! I've never had pads that bad ever. Needless to say no more noise and the rears have been done as well. They were ok, but I changed them anyway!
IMO small cars are so much nicer to work on in that everything is light weight. I fully agree about wheel studs. Why don't all cars have them? IIRC all the 60's, 70's and 80's cars I've owned all had them.
I like that Daihatsu. I hope it MOTs easily.
Hope it's just the valve stem oil seals needing replacing as it's too good to scrap but too expensive to do a full engine refurb.
As soon as you took the wheel off I thought ah there's your problem - no brake disc🤣. As you said they are tiny.
An exhaust shaped like a tobacco pipe would be appropriate.
\o/ yay finally someone listened to me about tuning the caliper out! \o/
The Daihatsu is such a cute little car, ideal, I would imagine, for the congested streets of Tokyo!!.
I drove all over Europe in these tiny cars. Great fun.
I think you're right, overnight flash rusting and road debris will make a noise for the first few minutes. It all looks OK from here; I'd just lube up the O/S pins and be done with it.
A piece of plywood to kneel or lie on does wonders when you need to be outdoors working. Even using some of the cardboard you have acquired from mail day can be a nice place to sit while wrenching.
I've been doing some home schooling too. I've been teaching the kids how to sit on the sofa watching Hubnut videos all day whilst eating slightly more chocolate than is advisable. They're doing quite well with that now, so tomorrow we're doing a beginner's tutorial on how to roll a joint. Lesson plans are available on request.
Love this hubnut being hubnut, to be fair Ian I would actually bin the car off to be fair and get a retro ax or Zx for Ms Hubnut or a little K11 micra, keep but the good work love it
Hi Ian nice interesting brake video,you could do a home schooling lesson on brake's, you need a nice big thick mat for lying on Now I would hate to get your nice New clothes ditty, keep up with the great work all the best to you and the family.
I've always hated working on brakes. top tip for you, I have an old bit of foam from a seat covered in duct tape that I use to sit on or knell on if I have to do a job like that.
Cheers. New trousers have knee pads and I also have some kneeling pads.
I really should do this on my cars, however the memory of trying to change brake pads on a Rover 45 with stuck slider pins (the heads of which ultimately rounded) still puts me off... That said what else did I buy tools and a blow torch for!!
I use Silicon grease for the slider pins, ceramic grease for the other brake grease points. Red rubber grease for reassembly of calipers after refurbishing. Much cheaper than replacing ;-)
"Lube aand Hope" - the name for Ian's new ukulele band.
had the same on my V8 Diesel 200 Series recently, came home from a "summer" holiday and pads were squealing, ordered new pads, took the wheels and a the pads were still at 70%...
Ceramic grease on the backs of the pads and/or shims might help. Rubber grease useless for metal to metal. Ceramic FTW. copper grease second best. Pins can often be chucked in a drill. Make a sleeve of abrasive paper. As you said though those are knackered. Likely that you can take them out on full lock without taking the wheel off possibly without even jacking the car up.
Note. Read in the nasally adenoidal voice of an armchair pedant. “You should not hit a socket ratchet with a hammer as it will damage the ratchet mechanism”. 😂
Handy tip, spray some brake cleaner into the holes that the slider pins go into and get a cotton bud and give it clean out. This will hopefully remove any congealed grease and general crap. If you really want to do a good job then roll some emery paper up and insert this and rub the inside first.
Golden grease is best for brake parts . Ive used it for years and any mechanics i know use it too . Others may vary . But golden grease is the best ive certainly found to keep brake components moving as they should .
It looks good still.
However, is it true thay from the factory there was no wheel bearing protecting cap??
With all this rain my discs are rusting overnight so I always have some scraping noise until its worn off most days. My alloy wheels are quite an open structure so rain gets straight to the discs. I'd see how the Mot goes in March before any more expenditure. Reality is the smoking issue may be a fail, then your looking at the cost effectiveness of engine work on a cheap as chips car.
I always spray a certain name brand water dispersion spray into the bolt tubes...just to clear them out
Usually use copper grease on reassembly as well...I know you shouldn't but never had any issues
@@glennpowell3444 it's a good way of keeping the slides able to move
@@glennpowell3444 I always preferred sliding pots to sliding calipers
@@glennpowell3444 iv got the wind back tool for working on rear brakes.....they are a godsend
Interesting to see a car from 2006 with solid front discs.
what about using Phil Wood's Tenacious Oil as a lube - or would that be too thin?
That smoke isn’t an oil breather thing is it? I wonder if it has a blocked oil breather in the rocker cover or somewhere similar?
I need to investigate. It doesn't seem to have a conventional breather.
Another worthwhile job nobbled - I didn’t realise the wheels on the Daihatsu were alloys.
Great video,as always, thanks Ian......i love those charades... do you think the head gasket is going?
No. There's no loss of coolant and no sign of oil and water mixing. Weak points on these engines are piston rings and valve stem seals.
@@HubNut ahhh, ok, im not surprised really with the mileage.....might be worth getting those done eventually, as it seems a decent little car :-)
Sometimes the backing plate can make noise when cold in my experience especially this time of year, especially if they getting thin with age / weathering.
Any lube is better then none,Graphite is a good anti sieze if you worry about grease going solid
Is that oil burning not just the valve stem oil seals? I nearly bought an Escort XR3 many years ago that had a similar problem. It smoked like hell until it had warmed up and then it was fine. Needless to say I never bought the car. Probably a wise move.
That top pin is probably missing a rubber collar
Such a small engine I reckon rings and valve seals would be an achievable job in your unit. A second hand engine could well be the same in short order. Can you do the valve stem seals using a cylinder pressurising tool like we used to with ford cvh engines? only used to take an hour or so, that would be a quick way to eliminate it from your enquiries before pulling the lump.
The new hub wether forecast channel I hope you are right and we are going to get good summer
I note you have a faithful Hal-fords ratchet? Do you find the long metal plate loosens up with use [or, lack of use?]? I've had one for decades, and the little securing screws back themselves out, creating mayhem when the ratchet doesn't, if you see what I mean?
Yes, that does happen. My very first ratchet was a Halfords one like this, and it provided faithful service for a great many years with no problems. Sadly this more recent one isn't as good.
Ian - have you removed and checked the pads? I had similar on an Abarth 500 - pads looked fine discs ok, yet were grinding. Turned out the friction pad was deteriorating and breaking off in large chunks. The noise was the material stuck between disc and pads.
I haven't, but I think we're going to replace the lot. Parts are cheap and it's good experience for Miss HubNut.
Could be a slight warped disks or bearing maybe on breaks
Ian's video descends into unintentional innuendo again lol...
A new name for that car Smokey and the Bandit after the movie with same name.One of the James Bond cars could do that trick too
Would it be worth taking on a long drive? A good 2-300 mile motorway bash to burn out any crap? I suppose it wouldn't be seen as "essential travel", but you could argue that you are a key worker as you keep us entertained during these strange times!
Put the slide pins in the pillar drill and use Emery cloth to clean up the pins
If I had a pillar drill, that would be a top suggestion.
Sorry thought I had seen one in the clutter (whoops)
Dodgy oil control ring mebbe Ian ? Not unknown for a sticking one to cause the smoke when cold, when the other 2 rings expand they then help to make the bore seal better, bit of a long shot and an uncommon thing to happen ?
I think that's most likely. Notorious on these engines.
I wonder how many miles you get to the litre of oil?
I have always preferred copper based brake component lubricants, they tend not to congeal as much. Oh, it's Emery paper or cloth not sandpaper, even the woodworking stuff is called glass paper. Anyone calling either sandpaper in woodwork or metalwork classes at school would get a clip round the head with a ruler, they were stainless steel rulers in the metalwork shop, ouch! A few thou miles left on those pads but don't let them get too low, delamination or breaking away from the backing plate may occur during heavy braking or an emergency stop.
On my Nissan theres a rubber o-ring on the sliding pin with the groove on the end.
Yes, I think this is missing one.
At least there won't be any mosquitos in Wales this year :)
Id love to live in Wales. Love the roads for my bike and the scenery is just magnificent . Got to be better than the West Midlands LOL
Lube and Hope...........one of the greatest double acts to come out of the Music Hall era
Ian,now you have all this new clothing you'll need a sign above the units door, HUBNUT MOTORS LTD. 😁😁😁😁
No Hubnut scrap yard 😁
HubNut Wheeled Technology Gone Amiss LTD.
@@stuarthall2180 LOL
@@stuarthall2180 I can see it now: 'Hubnut And Son', just like Steptoe's.
She is smoky, she is braking, she is wonderful, she is, a daihatsu dream
The nearside disc was blue a sure sign caliper sticking and overheating. You did the right thing freeing off the guide pins though no real need to renew a little pitting isn't going to do any harm on those big fat pins and will help hold the grease, always used heat resistant copper grease. Didn't notice you checking the piston was free though. As far as the engine goes it needs a set of piston rings. Oil control rings worn out and likely gone soft lost there expansion tension when cold and out of shape improves with a hot engine and things expand. Head off, sump off whip out pistons, glaze bust bores, change rings reassemble fit new timing belt etc. A good days work looking forward to viewing and will need to be done for MOT. Cat efficiency may have been compromised with all of that oil passing through the system.
I'd never use copper grease on the sliders. Have ordered some ceramic grease which tends to be better but thanks. Engine work seems likely, but I think I'll put it in for a test early see if anything else is lurking first.
What was your front rotors diameter 211mm or 234mm? i cant find enough info and both show that they are compatible at difrent websites.
Do the pins again but put 3-in-1 penetrating oil on and gently polish with the fine emery paper... you will see the rust steadily dissolving as you work through the layers. Then put the oil on again and insert in the caliperhole and spin it around etc to clean up the inside, then wipe everything clean and regrease.
Also there's no way I'd change the discs and pads... strip it all down properly, clean up pads and discs, spray all inside the caliper with brake cleaner and scrup with toothbrush, work the clean pistons in and out.
Reassemble and change brake fluid. Easy with an assistant overlapping tasks.
I think it’s definitely going to be a top end engine rebuild of the valve stem seals..... I think it’s timing chain on them little beauties.... Only scary if it has variable valve timing where the cam sprocket (defaiser) ⚙️ has forward and backward movement of the cam shaft.... or free play... that’s when you have to have a timing kit to lock the crank shaft and the cam shaft in position.... that’s fun because you have get it very right because if you don’t can go very very wrong.... VVT brilliant idea but scary as heck when changing a belt or chain....
No, it is a belt. This is the older EJ-VE engine. Definitely work to do I fear.
@@HubNut ahhhh I see well hopefully 🙏 it’s not vvt. It’s single cam yes? Or a little twin cam 3 cylinder? I need to watch back on the video from when you introduced the little gem. I have been recovering from having COVID so I been out of tune with your videos I’m sad to say.
My Ibiza has had noisy brakes from day 1 when it was new; just rust but is quite embarrassing as it sounds horrible. The dealer left it standing in their compound for a few weeks before telling me it had arrived so this may be why the brakes rust so much.
I’m having my brakes checked tomorrow.
I always like a happy engine 😁
if not mentioned knock off the heavy scaling around the disc edge to stopping rust crud finding its way onto the pad surface