Yeah, I'm glad we are taking it all the way down and doing it as right as we can. It's good to remember that this work may have been done back in the 1970's or 80's when these weren't seen as collector cars worth investing in. Over all, previous repairs were solid, just ugly and not accurately done.
I gave up on chemical stripper years ago. Cost, mess, poor performance. I went to Wire Wheel and soda blasting. Wire wheel is definitely the preferred way. With the correct compressor/air flow, harbor freight bag of soda blast media, and an eastwood soda blast gun, I stripped all exterior panels and Engine components of the Mustang. Soda blasting was like erasing the paint away just like using a pencil eraser on paper. I blasted in a small "shed" lined with plastic drop cloth to catch most of the soda blast media. Was still a great dusty mess, and baking soda kills the grass.
We are going to try some blasting this Wednesday. I've only used some dry sand I had laying around. I don't know much about different media blasting materials (soda, sand, grit, glass beeds, etc.) Do you recommend soda over sand or other?
@@3rdstallgarage Dont use sand. It WILL warp the metal. I used Soda for paint removal. Worked like a pencil eraser. Right down to bare metal. Be sure to remove all traces of the soda after blasting. Final Paint will fall off in sheets if any soda remains. I just washed parts with water to neutralize the soda. Then treated to stop rust. I used harbor freight black Aluminum Oxide for heavy rust removal from the Mustang inner Rockers with their portable abrasive blaster. One of the absolute key things to remember is to have DRY air when using Soda for blasting. Any moisture in the air will cause flow problems in the blasting gun/caking of the soda in the feed lines and in the gun. I had a dryer off of the compressor and a cheap HF throw away screw on dryer between the air hose and the blast gun. I eventually just used different wire wheels and got great results with those. On my current mustang build (which I just removed the cowl), I plan on moving well away from Soda Blasting and use wire wheels and the Contour Surface Conditioning tool that Eastwood sells - or at least purchase the knock off that HF sells now. I'd recommend that you look at videos of that surface conditioning tool. Users give great reviews and it gets you away from messy blast media. If you get one and it works well for you, I'll definitely et the HF one ;).
Wow it’s had some rough work but in the best place to be fixed up now for sure 👍
Yeah, I'm glad we are taking it all the way down and doing it as right as we can. It's good to remember that this work may have been done back in the 1970's or 80's when these weren't seen as collector cars worth investing in. Over all, previous repairs were solid, just ugly and not accurately done.
I gave up on chemical stripper years ago. Cost, mess, poor performance. I went to Wire Wheel and soda blasting. Wire wheel is definitely the preferred way. With the correct compressor/air flow, harbor freight bag of soda blast media, and an eastwood soda blast gun, I stripped all exterior panels and Engine components of the Mustang. Soda blasting was like erasing the paint away just like using a pencil eraser on paper. I blasted in a small "shed" lined with plastic drop cloth to catch most of the soda blast media. Was still a great dusty mess, and baking soda kills the grass.
We are going to try some blasting this Wednesday. I've only used some dry sand I had laying around. I don't know much about different media blasting materials (soda, sand, grit, glass beeds, etc.) Do you recommend soda over sand or other?
@@3rdstallgarage Dont use sand. It WILL warp the metal. I used Soda for paint removal. Worked like a pencil eraser. Right down to bare metal. Be sure to remove all traces of the soda after blasting. Final Paint will fall off in sheets if any soda remains. I just washed parts with water to neutralize the soda. Then treated to stop rust. I used harbor freight black Aluminum Oxide for heavy rust removal from the Mustang inner Rockers with their portable abrasive blaster. One of the absolute key things to remember is to have DRY air when using Soda for blasting. Any moisture in the air will cause flow problems in the blasting gun/caking of the soda in the feed lines and in the gun. I had a dryer off of the compressor and a cheap HF throw away screw on dryer between the air hose and the blast gun. I eventually just used different wire wheels and got great results with those. On my current mustang build (which I just removed the cowl), I plan on moving well away from Soda Blasting and use wire wheels and the Contour Surface Conditioning tool that Eastwood sells - or at least purchase the knock off that HF sells now. I'd recommend that you look at videos of that surface conditioning tool. Users give great reviews and it gets you away from messy blast media. If you get one and it works well for you, I'll definitely et the HF one ;).
Stripper discs wheel on a angle grinder.
Stripper discs work pretty good.