My opinion is I think a longer servo arm could help but only if there is room in the knuckles for more travel. Maybe check that and could probably grind some out for more travel if they are at max travel already. Wish I was more help brother
I didn’t break any of my steering parts, but somehow I bent the actual steel axle on the same side. How I bent the steel axle but didn’t break any of the plastic parts, I will never know. I was crawling over some logs we set up in our yard. My gen 7 is only 3 weeks old. I really just got back into RC ground vehicles and crawling. I have been doing drones for the last 7 years. Crawling is much more fun and not nearly as expensive starting off. Thanks for sharing with us.
What’s up Arkansas RC Newbie! These should do the trick! Those are a weak point on the Gen7. I agree with the comments about a longer servo horn. It did the trick for mine. Great video! 🤙🏼☢️
You can pit the cva from Gen 7 Pro. The problem is that you need to be careful wheels weight, they put huge stress on the cva, and change to dog bone, and I have the metal crown mount because it is plastic they strip with easy, and you need to dismantle the axles from and back
I changed out my RX and TX because the stock Redcat radio didn’t have enough adjustments for steering control. Once I did that and moved the screw to the longer servo horn slot, my turning radius is as good as it can be and I am way happier with the vehicle. On my DX5 radio, I’m pushing 140 on the adjustment in both directions with zero rubbing
Even though that alloy kit is advertised as Gen7, it's meant mainly for the SCX10 clones, the Injora and Austar, so you'll need the SCX10 steering and servo links to correct the geometry it is intended for.
Thank You!! You know it's been a mess and quite honestly it has made me lose interest in this build. I hope I can get my crap together soon and get re inspired with this rig. Thank you for the input
Oof, I goofed. My apology! In theory, all Injora/Austar chassis/parts are modeled after the SCX10 II and it would seem that the Gen7 is modeled after the first gen SCX10, but there's a problem... I have the Gen7 and a project SCX10 (first gen). Well, their main steering links are very close. The Gen7 bolt-to-bolt measurement was 138mm while the SCX was 136mm. The difference is virtually negligible. So, steering linkage from the first gen SCX10 won't help. So, that brings this to a worse situation.... The SCX10 II has redesigned axles through and through, so their steering linkage is even longer at 148mm! I'm not sure what the hell RCAWD sold you. It's a little concerning that on their site, they show pictures of a steering link on their full axles, but they don't seem to sell the link! Very odd indeed.
I suppose you could fabricate custom length links even though it's a pain in the arse. It really makes no sense unless RCAWD fashioned them from an unknown model because those steering hubs are definitely not Gen7 replicas otherwise the factory links would've worked perfectly. Firstly, I'd contact the company and see how far you get... hopefully, they can give you the custom links as a customer service thing or at least sell them with free shipping. Yeah, this would surely piss me off too when advertised as "Gen7" parts, but yet not 100% compatible. Again, sorry I couldn't offer an easy solution to this problem.
Theres not alot u can't do with a gen7 and u can get just the chassis servo mount for the portal kit alone and make it work but honestly the whole kit is the best route as it will transform the trucks performance
In my opinion the Everest gen 7 doesn't need to be upgraded. I'm leaving mine 100% stock, it's perfect already.people are working on them while I'm out using mine a few hours a day. Build a rock Boulder Field in your yard, or dig holes, there are no rules. Even us boomers are liking it.
Hey dude, thank you for uploading videos like this on the gen 7. I picked up a used one and I'm learning as I go just like you. I am working on fixing the steering radius too, and those knuckles are beat up on mine too, so I decided to replace the whole axles with Injora Portal Axles. I watched your videos for inspiration while I am fixing it up. So thank you. I will drop back in and let you know how my fix/mod went, if I liked it and if I think you should copy me. Assuming your redcat is still just like it was in this vid.
It is still like it is in the video man, thanks for the comment and support! Have got to get that thing going strong lol. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Are you going to do the servo on axle?? Or buy the chassis plate??
Needs a Longer servo horn. Best thing you can do for the rig is get rid of those huge axles completely. Red cat portal kit or get some cheap injora axles straight or portal
For sure man, thank you! I really like portal axles so I may just do those....Or I kinda like the idea of the injoras as well. Decisions decisions 🤷♂️😉
@arkansasrcnewbie I personally have not used the injora portals (knock off trx4 portal) but I've seen videos and they take a beating. I like the redcat v2 axles havent had any problems and they have alot of aftermarket support cheap and high end. I got 2 redcat gen 8v2s and the gen7 pro that's gonna get an axle swap very soon
I know you (probably) already figured it out but I own both the everest 10 and a gen7 and the axles are the same part but the knuckles are different and the gen7 has much shorter steering link mounts, you ordered parts for an everest 10 which will go on but you need the everest 10 links along with a much longer servo horn.
I've never had any luck with rcawd anything. Throw in the portal kit. Throw away the chassis mount servo plate/3 link. Buy a 1tenth soa 4 link kit and upgrade to a 35kg servo. It will come with a longer dual clamping servo arm. Then u have to dial down your steering end points because it will over travel, rather than under travel
Yes you can run either cms or ams. You would not be able to run cms with those axles because you need to run a 3 link with a panhard to eliminate bump steer. That axle doesn't have a panhard mount. Also if you shortened the upper links it would clock your servo back. As it is now you're loosing steering because it's steering towards the ground.
If u read this I’m just gonna say the more those axles turn the worse they bind and break I learned the hard way I can show u the broken parts but get a full metal front axle the rear is stronger but I’ve broken 4 front axles even upgraded ones so get the scx10 metal upgrade axle there’s a kit front and rear for like $70 and just saying I’ve took mine under water deep and it’s a beast I will say that I’m on my second motor but I wanna go brushless bad but then no more water and mud
Get the axial scx10 metal upgrade axles and they are great I got the transmission also and only had to open up two mount holes a little bc one side is wider than the stock transmission but metal axles and literally everything on it stock I’ve broken my truck is completely built not bought lmfao only thing that’s same is tires and frame and servo electrical stuff but mechanical wise everything is not normal stuff bc I’ve got bags of broken axles different axles and these are the best come with great grease but I add cv axle grease in all my differentials on rc crawlers it sticks and keeps the gears quiet
If u read this I’m just gonna say the more those axles turn the worse they bind and break I learned the hard way I can show u the broken parts but get a full metal front axle the rear is stronger but I’ve broken 4 front axles even upgraded ones so get the scx10 metal upgrade axle there’s a kit front and rear for like $70
In close to a year, I never broke my Danchee in any way, bouldering 3 times a week. The stock tires are worthless I thought, but for $100 on sale a great value. Replacement tires and rims assembled on beadlocks and clones, $80+ tax, really? Ha ha, no. Get an Everest that's good as is.
Servo on axle is supposed to be one of the best ways for steering angle 📐 redcat had a really bad geometry on their crawlers up till there newest release just this year! Don’t send a lot of time or money on figuring it out .. I have a couple Redcats rcs
The past 3 years or so redcat crawlers are designed by the previous ceo of Axial..So they know what they are doing..The Everest 10 and Gen 7 are Chinese HSP and RGT rigs..I dont crawl but i know my stuff..Cheers.
When you put new parts n do a dry test. But you should put it like it was one on bottom one on top this way no bind and it will turn easy. It is easy maybe you just over think it I’m not being mean and with the turning maybe longer horn on it. Take it all off and start over this way you can see what went wrong I been into rc things since I was 10 I know how to fix rc I helped a hobby store fixing rc. Cars and crawlers. And nitros. I’m just giving you ideas
I know the problem,its a Redcat! Lol jokes. I think Paul is probably right about them being the wrong model. And i think the hubs are called C hubs???not sure. As for the sevo on axle,im into it but I had to cut the nose off of my Wraith to keep from bumbing the servo into the chassis. No track bar though,and on a Redcat,thats a plus😉 Thanks for sharing and good luck with it brotha!🤞
Hey, at least the new aluminum parts look pretty, right?? 🤣 This happens to me all the time with trying to repair things, some of it is a little trial and error. 🦥
My opinion is I think a longer servo arm could help but only if there is room in the knuckles for more travel. Maybe check that and could probably grind some out for more travel if they are at max travel already. Wish I was more help brother
For sure man, imma look at some options and see what we can do. Thinking portal kit lol.
I didn’t break any of my steering parts, but somehow I bent the actual steel axle on the same side. How I bent the steel axle but didn’t break any of the plastic parts, I will never know. I was crawling over some logs we set up in our yard. My gen 7 is only 3 weeks old. I really just got back into RC ground vehicles and crawling. I have been doing drones for the last 7 years. Crawling is much more fun and not nearly as expensive starting off. Thanks for sharing with us.
Maybe a longer servo horn will help . End point adjustment maybe 🤔
It's worth a shot??? just drives me nuts, thanks for the help. I should try that or send these back! Lol
Man if only I knew you or lived close I have lots of time with the gen 7 and definitely made it better
Man I appreciate that David.
What’s up Arkansas RC Newbie! These should do the trick! Those are a weak point on the Gen7. I agree with the comments about a longer servo horn. It did the trick for mine. Great video! 🤙🏼☢️
Thanks brother 🙏 I gotta figure something out! Lol later Radioactive ☢️
WoW! Very Cool up-grade but gives some troubles and naice tutorial my friend! Congrats for a very useful video!
For sure Panda 🐼 a little let down but it was interesting to say the least lol. Thank You
@@arkansasrcnewbie 🐼It is always useful information and serves as a warning to other companions in the same situation!
You can pit the cva from Gen 7 Pro. The problem is that you need to be careful wheels weight, they put huge stress on the cva, and change to dog bone, and I have the metal crown mount because it is plastic they strip with easy, and you need to dismantle the axles from and back
Man, thank you so much for the tips!! Really
I changed out my RX and TX because the stock Redcat radio didn’t have enough adjustments for steering control. Once I did that and moved the screw to the longer servo horn slot, my turning radius is as good as it can be and I am way happier with the vehicle. On my DX5 radio, I’m pushing 140 on the adjustment in both directions with zero rubbing
Good to know thank-you! She's sitting on a shelf but I have got to get her out soon
You need a servo horn that's longer I did that to mine and it has really good steering now
Nice! Thanks man
Even though that alloy kit is advertised as Gen7, it's meant mainly for the SCX10 clones, the Injora and Austar, so you'll need the SCX10 steering and servo links to correct the geometry it is intended for.
Thank You!! You know it's been a mess and quite honestly it has made me lose interest in this build. I hope I can get my crap together soon and get re inspired with this rig. Thank you for the input
Oof, I goofed. My apology! In theory, all Injora/Austar chassis/parts are modeled after the SCX10 II and it would seem that the Gen7 is modeled after the first gen SCX10, but there's a problem...
I have the Gen7 and a project SCX10 (first gen). Well, their main steering links are very close. The Gen7 bolt-to-bolt measurement was 138mm while the SCX was 136mm. The difference is virtually negligible. So, steering linkage from the first gen SCX10 won't help.
So, that brings this to a worse situation.... The SCX10 II has redesigned axles through and through, so their steering linkage is even longer at 148mm!
I'm not sure what the hell RCAWD sold you. It's a little concerning that on their site, they show pictures of a steering link on their full axles, but they don't seem to sell the link! Very odd indeed.
I suppose you could fabricate custom length links even though it's a pain in the arse. It really makes no sense unless RCAWD fashioned them from an unknown model because those steering hubs are definitely not Gen7 replicas otherwise the factory links would've worked perfectly. Firstly, I'd contact the company and see how far you get... hopefully, they can give you the custom links as a customer service thing or at least sell them with free shipping.
Yeah, this would surely piss me off too when advertised as "Gen7" parts, but yet not 100% compatible. Again, sorry I couldn't offer an easy solution to this problem.
Theres not alot u can't do with a gen7 and u can get just the chassis servo mount for the portal kit alone and make it work but honestly the whole kit is the best route as it will transform the trucks performance
Thanks Paul, that sounds great. I think I might just pull the trigger on those, under $100
In my opinion the Everest gen 7 doesn't need to be upgraded. I'm leaving mine 100% stock, it's perfect already.people are working on them while I'm out using mine a few hours a day. Build a rock Boulder Field in your yard, or dig holes, there are no rules. Even us boomers are liking it.
My redcat broke instantly too. I think there was a manufacturing issue last year
I heard that as well....
Hey dude, thank you for uploading videos like this on the gen 7. I picked up a used one and I'm learning as I go just like you. I am working on fixing the steering radius too, and those knuckles are beat up on mine too, so I decided to replace the whole axles with Injora Portal Axles. I watched your videos for inspiration while I am fixing it up. So thank you. I will drop back in and let you know how my fix/mod went, if I liked it and if I think you should copy me. Assuming your redcat is still just like it was in this vid.
It is still like it is in the video man, thanks for the comment and support! Have got to get that thing going strong lol. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Are you going to do the servo on axle?? Or buy the chassis plate??
@@arkansasrcnewbie staying on the axle.
Got my SCX10 Injora Portal Axles on massive improvement. Steers better, more clearance, lower gearing.
Needs a Longer servo horn. Best thing you can do for the rig is get rid of those huge axles completely. Red cat portal kit or get some cheap injora axles straight or portal
For sure man, thank you! I really like portal axles so I may just do those....Or I kinda like the idea of the injoras as well. Decisions decisions 🤷♂️😉
@arkansasrcnewbie I personally have not used the injora portals (knock off trx4 portal) but I've seen videos and they take a beating. I like the redcat v2 axles havent had any problems and they have alot of aftermarket support cheap and high end. I got 2 redcat gen 8v2s and the gen7 pro that's gonna get an axle swap very soon
Would swapping sides help? I know you said it doesn’t say left or right but is the linkage arm center or is it off centered?
Brother I just tried this weekend..... No go 😕 thank you for the suggestion.
I know you (probably) already figured it out but I own both the everest 10 and a gen7 and the axles are the same part but the knuckles are different and the gen7 has much shorter steering link mounts, you ordered parts for an everest 10 which will go on but you need the everest 10 links along with a much longer servo horn.
Man! Did not figure it out lol, thank you so much for the heads up!! O appreciate that
EXACTLY same scenario and parts happened to me.. im just gonna get new axles all the way around
👍👍👍
I've never had any luck with rcawd anything. Throw in the portal kit. Throw away the chassis mount servo plate/3 link. Buy a 1tenth soa 4 link kit and upgrade to a 35kg servo. It will come with a longer dual clamping servo arm. Then u have to dial down your steering end points because it will over travel, rather than under travel
Man, thanks a bunch. I really wanna do what you said. I looked it up and it sounds and looks great! Thank you so much
Yes you can run either cms or ams. You would not be able to run cms with those axles because you need to run a 3 link with a panhard to eliminate bump steer. That axle doesn't have a panhard mount. Also if you shortened the upper links it would clock your servo back. As it is now you're loosing steering because it's steering towards the ground.
SCIENCE BABY! LOVE IT ❤️ Thanks Luke
looks like the metal knuckles are binding up, they need to be sanded down a little to get more steering travel.
Absolutely brother, thank you for the tip!
If u read this I’m just gonna say the more those axles turn the worse they bind and break I learned the hard way I can show u the broken parts but get a full metal front axle the rear is stronger but I’ve broken 4 front axles even upgraded ones so get the scx10 metal upgrade axle there’s a kit front and rear for like $70 and just saying I’ve took mine under water deep and it’s a beast I will say that I’m on my second motor but I wanna go brushless bad but then no more water and mud
It's not the servo location I'm pretty sure the knuckles u have r for the earlier gen7
Thank you, I think I may send those back 🤔
Get the axial scx10 metal upgrade axles and they are great I got the transmission also and only had to open up two mount holes a little bc one side is wider than the stock transmission but metal axles and literally everything on it stock I’ve broken my truck is completely built not bought lmfao only thing that’s same is tires and frame and servo electrical stuff but mechanical wise everything is not normal stuff bc I’ve got bags of broken axles different axles and these are the best come with great grease but I add cv axle grease in all my differentials on rc crawlers it sticks and keeps the gears quiet
If u read this I’m just gonna say the more those axles turn the worse they bind and break I learned the hard way I can show u the broken parts but get a full metal front axle the rear is stronger but I’ve broken 4 front axles even upgraded ones so get the scx10 metal upgrade axle there’s a kit front and rear for like $70
You may have put the sleeves wrong in the knuckles
Thanks for the comment brother, you know others have commented and said the set is supposed to go on a gen 8???
Did you ever figure this out?
No sir, someone said they are for a different generation 🙄
V1 vs V2
In close to a year, I never broke my Danchee in any way, bouldering 3 times a week. The stock tires are worthless I thought, but for $100 on sale a great value. Replacement tires and rims assembled on beadlocks and clones, $80+ tax, really? Ha ha, no. Get an Everest that's good as is.
Love the comment brother, thanks! Stock tires are worthless 😆
Servo on axle is supposed to be one of the best ways for steering angle 📐 redcat had a really bad geometry on their crawlers up till there newest release just this year! Don’t send a lot of time or money on figuring it out .. I have a couple Redcats rcs
Thanks brother, looking at the soa axle mount and a possible portal axle upgrade. 👍 Thanks
The past 3 years or so redcat crawlers are designed by the previous ceo of Axial..So they know what they are doing..The Everest 10 and Gen 7 are Chinese HSP and RGT rigs..I dont crawl but i know my stuff..Cheers.
When you put new parts n do a dry test. But you should put it like it was one on bottom one on top this way no bind and it will turn easy. It is easy maybe you just over think it I’m not being mean and with the turning maybe longer horn on it. Take it all off and start over this way you can see what went wrong I been into rc things since I was 10 I know how to fix rc I helped a hobby store fixing rc. Cars and crawlers. And nitros. I’m just giving you ideas
Yes sir, thanks for the info! Appreciate it
I know the problem,its a Redcat! Lol jokes.
I think Paul is probably right about them being the wrong model.
And i think the hubs are called C hubs???not sure. As for the sevo on axle,im into it but I had to cut the nose off of my Wraith to keep from bumbing the servo into the chassis.
No track bar though,and on a Redcat,thats a plus😉
Thanks for sharing and good luck with it brotha!🤞
Much love man, hope it goes better next time!! I just might send em back lol. Redcat 🤦🏻♂️
Move steering link to other side
Like swap it?? Hmmm. That sounds like a plan! Appreciate ya Luke 💯
@@arkansasrcnewbie no problem buddy 👍
I can show you the only safe way u will ever get good turning radius
If you want weight on your rc crawler, you buy brass.
Yes Sir! New build is loaded with it👍🏻
Hey, at least the new aluminum parts look pretty, right?? 🤣 This happens to me all the time with trying to repair things, some of it is a little trial and error. 🦥
All is for me! Lol Thanks Slothsquatch