@@Witty924I just love the styling and it's now or never. My ultimate goal is to convert it to electric but that's a good few years away until the costs come down.
Just got a 924 that sat for 23 years (US market here) and am attempting a revival, car will start but only stay running if holding the flap, about to try this and see if it works, hopefully this, the cold start valve, or the thermo switch does it, fuel distributor rebuild kit looking kind of expensive.
Hi Reese, thanks for the comment, great to hear you are bringing a 924 back to life. Hopefully a good clean of the WUR should help it stay running 🤞, let me know how you get on 👍
I hope you see this. I bought my daughter a Porsche 924 ‘77. She has problems with starting and keeping it running! I had a diagnosis done on it and the Mechanic seems to think either the fuel distributor or mass air flow is bad. The fuel distributor has been rebuilt already just before we purchased it. I am wondering if maybe our WUR needs cleaning or should I mess with the Mass airflow instead?
Hi Steve thanks for the comment and support. Great to hear you have a 924 and a nice early version too, great car. So I would certainly check out the WUR, very easy to remove and check for dirt etc. After that, take the rubber boot off the air flow meter and look at the position of the metal disc plate, it should sit flush at the bottom of the cone, if it's to low it can affect the running of the engine. Of course the fuel pump could be playing up too. Let start with these before going any deeper ;). Hope that helps. 🤞
I had the same issue on my ‘80 924 and cleaning the WUR fixed it. Of course now I need to do my fuel pump. I’ve already watched those videos of yours so I’m good to go.
Thank you, Chris, and thanks for watching and the support. Been an up and down fault-finding mission but at least I got to renew some bots that needed updating. I am going to check out the AAR just to do the final cold start rev-matching that should happen as the engine warms up. best of luck with you 924 and let me know how you get on :)
@@Witty924 Are you a member of the 924 Owners club, my work on my 924 is detailed in the forum? I have made the modification to the WUR so that I can adjust the cold control pressure which richens/leans the cold Air / Fuel ratio. Mine was running too rich and making cold starting difficult, and cold running poor. But to complicate matters I think I have an electrical issue at the dizzy or TIU as well. It never rains but pours....
@@chrismadge7292 I was a few years back Chris. I connect with 924.org now which works out well. That fizz you.mentioned I saw Ant do on wheeler dealers. Did you do the same set up?
Witty 924 yes the same. It makes adjusting the cold control pressure easier, you can do it with the WUR on the car rather than have to take it off as you would without the mod. It’s easy to do with the right drill and tap: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/272502-modified-my-wur.html. But hopefully your WUR is correctly set up. Nice looking car BTW.
@@chrismadge7292 thanks Chris very useful. Once I get it back on the road this month all being well. I will start to look and upgrades and fixes to make it a better car to drive more often. That's the plan ;)🤞
I miss my 924 and my 944, i never had big problems with both of them, sometimes if it was really hot it took a while to start, at one time the big read window broke overnight for no reason and i had to repair the clutch but that's it.
Got the unit off and its caked up with a dry sandy residue. The diaphragm screws are rusty so soaking in WD40. Fingers crossed. Are you able to confirm that there should only be the one large spring in these units? Some vids show a smaller spring which fits inside the big one? T.I.A.
Hi Chris, great to hear and here hoping its just a good clean up. Let me check my spare unit for you and see how many springs it has inside, I think it was one but I could be wrong. Brb
Well done on sorting the cold start issue! I have the exact same problem on my 924, so I will be taking the WUR off to clean it etc. Mad that yours looked so good on the inside, and only required a brief cleaning of the fuel ports?! They must be temperamental devices. My car came with a 'cold start button' that someone installed in the center console. if you don't push it when starting from cold, the car won't start. I'm wondering if it's just a switch to manually fire the cold start valve... Looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Cheers, Eric.
Many thanks Eric and thanks for watching. Been an up and down journey but at least it works as it should. It sounds like you have the cold start value manual override fix which can be used on cold start issues and hot start issues I believe. There are some good little fixes like that for the 924. Anything to keep them going well I say 👍🚙💨
Hi so I have been following all the videos as I have same issues, I bought the car as a non runner and here is what I have done. New plugs leads dizzy cap and rotor, coil so I think that should sort the electrics out. tried no1 plug for spark and everything ok so assumed all are sparking. New fuel pump and hose fitted and checked the tank pump on bench with fuel and pumping ok. Car not starting. So pulled the warm up injector and tested for fuel and was ok on turning engine. Pulled all 4 injectors and cranked over but no fuel (like you had) so I opened up the air intake and cranked over and all 4 injectors pumping fuel. Took off warm up regulator and split which was same as yours clean as whistle inside. Checked continuity and resistance and all would suggest ok. Car still wont start. Double checked the leads and checked TDC to check rotor arm was pointing at number 1, all ok....You got any suggestions ? cheers
@@Witty924 Hi no It would not fire up.been reading all about the WUR and have ordered a service kit so I will remove it again and replace parts and check for blockages in the holes for fuel. Am I right i thinking the WuR generates the pressure needed to raise the air intake thus allowing the correct fuel to pass into the injectors?
you are spot on Andy. Any issues with the inlet or out let or delicate diaphragm with cause issues. The rebuild kit is a good way to go just to be double sure. Also check how clean your plate is. Mine was thick with oily residue which can effect how it performs. Cleaning up all these bits is not a bad thing to do now and then 👍. Let me know how you get on. 🤞
@@Witty924 hi so this is an update. WUR service kit came and replaced all the parts. put all back together and still wont start so I checked fuel was getting through . Fuel deffo at metering head and fuel pressure test showed 48psi. Not sure if that about right? I manually raised the air intake and still wont fire but I could smell fuel so assumed its getting through. So where now? Gonna check all 4 plugs for spark and the timing marks. The dizzy cap is seated right but was wanting to double check plug 1 for firing order. If you look at engine from passenger side at the dizzy cap number 1 lead is about 5 o clock on a clock face . then going round 1342. Is yours the same?? I am sure I am overlooking something simple ( could be me) like timing or firing order etc. The fuel side seems to be ok...HELP
@@andyfarrell5975 hi andy thanks for the message. Right so have you taken out an injector nd check if fuel shoots out on crank also test when you lift the plate to see if fuel gets through that will identify if you still have an issue with the fuel system or if you need to move into the ignition system as you say. Email me at p924na1984@gmail.com I can send you a shot video of my ignition set up and position of distie so you have it for reference.
Thanks Paul. Good feeling getting that sorted. Just need to check the AAR on the idle at cold. Havent seen the plunger springs. Are they and after market specialist part?
@@Witty924 the plunger springs seem to be an after market part they are sold on ebay type in plunger spring for porshe 924 fuel metering head I have just ordered one just to give the plunger a bit of help seems like a good idea to me as they stick sometimes
Hi Tal, thanks for the comment. It's a little difficult the bottom bolt, as you say it's not visible from the top so you need to slide in you Allen head socket by feeling with your hand. It's in the same position as the top bolt but directly underneath. I removed the cold start valve (injector) to get more space. Hope that helps 👍
@@Witty924 thanks! I’ll try that out later today. Bought a beat up ’79 last year to learn about cars. Your videos are a great help, thanks for posting them.
@@Witty924 got it out, thanks for the help. Do you recommend that I refurbish it (there’s a reasonably priced kit on eBay)? Or just clean it up and make sure the screens are clear? The car doesn’t start- and may not have since 2004. So I’m working my way through it to get it going.
@@talm2891 great to hear Tal. So as a first step, open it up and just check inside. Look for any corrosion. If it's nice an clean inside then just clean up the inlet and outlet ports. Then refit and try to start. I have a little trick to help the car get started if that doesn't work. 👍
I guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost my account password. I love any help you can give me.
@Joshua Israel Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hey Paul, I refitted the fuels lines to the WUR and Cold starter Valve and turned the key and it fired into life. i havent seen anything on airlocks in the fuel systems before, but if you are having trouble with fuel reaching the injectors, you should take the airfilter off reach inside and lift the plate within the unit gently while you have someone crank the engine. you should get a start. you can also do this with the injectors out into glass jars to see if they operate and shoot fuel. this will force fuel through the system if your pump is all working well too. now if all the above works you need to still look at the WUR as this unit should be doing the job rather than you placing your hand on the airflow meter plate. let me know how you go. :)
Hi Sean thanks for the comment, hope all is good with you. So it supports both cold starting running and warm running via a metallic strip. Check this link as it will be a quicker explanation www.tuningblog.eu/en/kategorien/tipps_tuev-dekra-u-co/warmlaufregler-und-tuning-darauf-gilt-es-zu-achten-340115/#:~:text=Warm%2Dup%20regulator%20ensures%20that,is%20heated%20in%20the%20process. 👍🚙💨
I have a cold start issue on my Ferrari 308. It goes through a warm up low to high idle before idling back down after warm up. My problem is that everything is fine, starts up goes through idling process but does not kick back down like it should after warm up. Stays at high idle. Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
Hi Al, thanks for the comment. Superb to hear you have a 308. So I believe there are adjusting screws near the carbs that sets the throttle idle. Good link here for you to look at with some that have done the process. Let me know how you go Al. 👍www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/308-carb-preferred-method-for-raising-idle-speed.118702/
Thanks Witty, I have been looking so much on Ferrarichat but cannot find what in looking for. I have a fuel injected 1980 308... Thinking it might be the Warm Up Regulator,(WUR) or the cold start injector. .. With a Ferrari 308 the idling is suppose to go through 3 idle changes before idling back down which means its ready to drive. Its just stuck on the last high idle at 2800 RPM and suppose to go down to 1000 RPM when its warm , but its not. I just want to know for sure before I buy a part. Thanks for getting back, Aldo.
@@alge3399 not a problem. Best thing is to check the warm up regulator even if it's just to give it a good clean out. Do a test on the start up value. At cold remove from its seating place but still connected to the fuel system pipe. Place it into a clear jar and turn over the engine to see if it's doing its job. If it doesnt fire you know the WUR could be at fault. It sounds like it's just an idle issue that needs adjusting if you are getting the engine to start but its seating g at high revs. Let me know how you get on. Good luck 👍
@@alge3399 hi Al. Check out this video from a guy here in the UK going through the carb rebuild. He covers the idle screws. More importantly the details about high revs and timing. Hope that helps 👍 th-cam.com/video/ee8MahyiDds/w-d-xo.html
@@karinfrederking3809 Hi Karin, so I think they were either M12 or M14. I just got myself a simple copper crush washer set of ebay as I replaced a few washers around the fuel system. Something like the below, hope that helps 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200pcs-Assorted-Solid-Copper-Car-Engine-Crush-Washers-Set-Seal-Flat-Ring-UK-/363524432024?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Hi Alan, thanks for the comment. So I would start with the fuel system and just make sure fuel is at the injectors and dont stop after 5 seconds. You can also pressure test the fuel system to check it stays constant and doesn't drop. It could be as simple as a new fuel pump or the WUR needs a clean or refurb. Let me know how you get on 👍
@@Witty924 hey so I’ve gotten to the point to where my 924 turns on but I have to keep giving it gas to the car doesn’t turn off to the point where I can leave it on its own and is warmed up this sound like a WUR problem?
@@alancarriedo7378 Hi alan, so if the car doesnt stay running it could be the WUR. Remove the Airbox and air filter, get someone to start it while you put your hand under the plate of the air mass unit and lift slightly as it's running. You will hear the change in engine note. Keep doing this slight movement till you hear the engine idling well. Now let go and if it stalls that can mean your WUR is not keeping the pressure at the right level. If this is the case take out WUR and give a good clean around the inlet and outlet connections. Reinstall and try starting again. Let me know how you get on 👍
I just wonder why is it that the Porsche 924, has been like forgotten, when you think, of the 944, 911,930,Targa,Carrera, 960, it is like forgotten, just like the 912, and they are part of the history, awesome 924, it is nice that you keep that 924, on the road at least you keep that classic on the road,👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Enrique, Thanks for watching and the comment. I think the 924 is one of the greatest stories in Porsche history books. Like it or not it was a massive success for Porsche financially. Above all, Porsche was brave enough to do something that many would not have and you could argue that is the sign of great companies. They engineered a car completely different from the 911for mass production, it was a financial gamble that paid off hugely. Front engined, water-cooled, 50/50 weight distribution and they sold lots. Yes, it was a parts bin raid on VW but all the great cars share parts with not so great cars :)
@@Witty924 My question is if it was that successful, why did they stop making them, what started out as the 357, became the 911, then it changed and now is the 930 or so, even if it was rebadged, like you said that car was a huge hit with the market, you make it better not stop producing it.
@@EnriqueLopez-hb5jn You should read the history of Porsche its a great read. I believe there was a team that wanted front-engined cars to be the future of Porsche and there was a team that wanted to continue with the rear engine set up as the future. You know who won :) Ultimately they had a great run with the 924, 944, 968, 928 but the final move was to keep the rear-engined 911 and add mid-engined cars, Boxster, cayman. its a great history and example of a company taking a bet on the future. you could say 4x4's have been another financial win for the company with the Taycan leading the next charge of Porsche (no pun intended :)
I have read the story of Porsche, & how it started, by Ferdinand Porsche, and how all the different Porsche*s came to be, and how the 924/928, known in European markets, were popular, but if these cars were a winner.back in the day for Porsche why did they stop making them, of course they kept what started out as the 357, revolutionized into the 911 ,then 930, Carrera, 960 which is the present model, of course they included, the SUV*s Cayenne, then there was a model called the Maccan, included a 4 door known as the Panamera, now they even have a hybrid model .
Thanks for the comment Chris, I was lucky and only needed to give it a good clean, especially around the inlet and put let fittings. That said I'm rebuilding my spare with a gasket kit so will do a video on that one soon. 👍
We've had ours running after being stood for years now she won't fire up. I'll start with some fresh fuel and see where we go. When she is running stinks of petrol in that corner. Thank you.
@@christophergarrett4433 great to hear you have it running, I'm sure you know this but just check the lines back to the fuel pump to see if any leaks have developed. Cleaning the WUR and the fuel distributor unit can do wonders. Let me know how you get on 👍
I've nearly got the WUR off. Bottom bolt requires a visit home to get my Allen keys. I got 18.8 to 19.2 Ohms at the connector. Just seen your video on the pump and accumulator which frightens me. I won't be delving into that. So fingers crossed. If I find debris I will do what you did and leave the rebuild kit I think? Any suggestions where to get kit from?
@@christophergarrett4433 Hi Chris, dont be put off by it, just take your time step by step, you will get to know your car well through it. Here is the gasket set for the WUR, good kit from germnay via ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-Kit-For-Bosch-0438140011-Warm-Up-Regulator-Porsche-VW-Audi-Ford-Nissan-/184451697450?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Sorry to hear that DS. I know that if you rebuild them they might need resetting to set the correct fuel pressure for optimal running. Check out this post it might helpwww.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=20665
@@Witty924 I drive a MK2 Scirocco GTX 1.8 DX 8 valve. WUR part number is 0438 140 118. Thanks for the link bud and I've saved the link, will look into the information 🙏
Helped me while rebuilding my fuel system on my ‘77 924. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and support Theo, great to hear it helped, I hope your 924 is running well 🤞👍
That damn WUR makes a difference!!! Woot Woot congrats Witty!
Thanks Brian. They sure do. Hope all is well 👍
Told yah that’s what it would be! Well done!, works well now, instant start is the norm with a sorted WUR. Excellent!
Bang on the money GBO. Thanks for watching and the tips buddy 👍
Just bought a 924 that's been stood for 14 years. Now subscribed to your channel thanks for the videos 👍
Great to hear you are saving another 924 DG, best of luck bringing it back to life too. Thanks for subscribing and the support. Greatly appreciated 👍
@@Witty924I just love the styling and it's now or never. My ultimate goal is to convert it to electric but that's a good few years away until the costs come down.
@@dg115 now that would be awesome set of videos if you do convert it to electric 👍
@@Witty924 definitely one for the future !
Just got a 924 that sat for 23 years (US market here) and am attempting a revival, car will start but only stay running if holding the flap, about to try this and see if it works, hopefully this, the cold start valve, or the thermo switch does it, fuel distributor rebuild kit looking kind of expensive.
Hi Reese, thanks for the comment, great to hear you are bringing a 924 back to life. Hopefully a good clean of the WUR should help it stay running 🤞, let me know how you get on 👍
Glad you got it sorted! Congrats!
Thanks Flexnes, it took long enough haha 👍
I hope you see this. I bought my daughter a Porsche 924 ‘77. She has problems with starting and keeping it running! I had a diagnosis done on it and the Mechanic seems to think either the fuel distributor or mass air flow is bad. The fuel distributor has been rebuilt already just before we purchased it. I am wondering if maybe our WUR needs cleaning or should I mess with the Mass airflow instead?
Hi Steve thanks for the comment and support. Great to hear you have a 924 and a nice early version too, great car. So I would certainly check out the WUR, very easy to remove and check for dirt etc. After that, take the rubber boot off the air flow meter and look at the position of the metal disc plate, it should sit flush at the bottom of the cone, if it's to low it can affect the running of the engine. Of course the fuel pump could be playing up too. Let start with these before going any deeper ;). Hope that helps. 🤞
I'm with you now and realise this was the last part of your problem. I hope I'm as lucky. Fingers crossed. It will be off tomorrow.
Let me know how you get on, hopefully it's just a clean up required 👍🚙💨
Your content has me wanting to get a 924
Go for it! They are great cars and great to work on. 👍
I had the same issue on my ‘80 924 and cleaning the WUR fixed it. Of course now I need to do my fuel pump. I’ve already watched those videos of yours so I’m good to go.
Hey William great to hear you had the same fix that worked too. Good.luxk on the fuel pump too 👍
Hurrah, got there in the end! I’m working through some poor cold starting issues and cold running on my 924 at the moment.
Thank you, Chris, and thanks for watching and the support. Been an up and down fault-finding mission but at least I got to renew some bots that needed updating. I am going to check out the AAR just to do the final cold start rev-matching that should happen as the engine warms up. best of luck with you 924 and let me know how you get on :)
@@Witty924 Are you a member of the 924 Owners club, my work on my 924 is detailed in the forum? I have made the modification to the WUR so that I can adjust the cold control pressure which richens/leans the cold Air / Fuel ratio. Mine was running too rich and making cold starting difficult, and cold running poor. But to complicate matters I think I have an electrical issue at the dizzy or TIU as well. It never rains but pours....
@@chrismadge7292 I was a few years back Chris. I connect with 924.org now which works out well. That fizz you.mentioned I saw Ant do on wheeler dealers. Did you do the same set up?
Witty 924 yes the same. It makes adjusting the cold control pressure easier, you can do it with the WUR on the car rather than have to take it off as you would without the mod. It’s easy to do with the right drill and tap: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/272502-modified-my-wur.html. But hopefully your WUR is correctly set up. Nice looking car BTW.
@@chrismadge7292 thanks Chris very useful. Once I get it back on the road this month all being well. I will start to look and upgrades and fixes to make it a better car to drive more often. That's the plan ;)🤞
I miss my 924 and my 944, i never had big problems with both of them, sometimes if it was really hot it took a while to start, at one time the big read window broke overnight for no reason and i had to repair the clutch but that's it.
Thanks for the comment @xantylon74 sounds like you had good times with your 924 and 944. Have you ever thought of getting another one? 👍
Got the unit off and its caked up with a dry sandy residue. The diaphragm screws are rusty so soaking in WD40. Fingers crossed. Are you able to confirm that there should only be the one large spring in these units? Some vids show a smaller spring which fits inside the big one? T.I.A.
Hi Chris, great to hear and here hoping its just a good clean up. Let me check my spare unit for you and see how many springs it has inside, I think it was one but I could be wrong. Brb
Well done on sorting the cold start issue! I have the exact same problem on my 924, so I will be taking the WUR off to clean it etc. Mad that yours looked so good on the inside, and only required a brief cleaning of the fuel ports?! They must be temperamental devices. My car came with a 'cold start button' that someone installed in the center console. if you don't push it when starting from cold, the car won't start. I'm wondering if it's just a switch to manually fire the cold start valve... Looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Cheers, Eric.
Many thanks Eric and thanks for watching. Been an up and down journey but at least it works as it should. It sounds like you have the cold start value manual override fix which can be used on cold start issues and hot start issues I believe. There are some good little fixes like that for the 924. Anything to keep them going well I say 👍🚙💨
Hi so I have been following all the videos as I have same issues, I bought the car as a non runner and here is what I have done. New plugs leads dizzy cap and rotor, coil so I think that should sort the electrics out. tried no1 plug for spark and everything ok so assumed all are sparking. New fuel pump and hose fitted and checked the tank pump on bench with fuel and pumping ok. Car not starting. So pulled the warm up injector and tested for fuel and was ok on turning engine. Pulled all 4 injectors and cranked over but no fuel (like you had) so I opened up the air intake and cranked over and all 4 injectors pumping fuel. Took off warm up regulator and split which was same as yours clean as whistle inside. Checked continuity and resistance and all would suggest ok. Car still wont start. Double checked the leads and checked TDC to check rotor arm was pointing at number 1, all ok....You got any suggestions ? cheers
Thanks for the comment andy and for watching the videos. So can you start it with lifting the plate in the air flow meter. Hand through air box trick?
@@Witty924 Hi no It would not fire up.been reading all about the WUR and have ordered a service kit so I will remove it again and replace parts and check for blockages in the holes for fuel. Am I right i thinking the WuR generates the pressure needed to raise the air intake thus allowing the correct fuel to pass into the injectors?
you are spot on Andy. Any issues with the inlet or out let or delicate diaphragm with cause issues. The rebuild kit is a good way to go just to be double sure. Also check how clean your plate is. Mine was thick with oily residue which can effect how it performs. Cleaning up all these bits is not a bad thing to do now and then 👍. Let me know how you get on. 🤞
@@Witty924 hi so this is an update. WUR service kit came and replaced all the parts. put all back together and still wont start so I checked fuel was getting through . Fuel deffo at metering head and fuel pressure test showed 48psi. Not sure if that about right? I manually raised the air intake and still wont fire but I could smell fuel so assumed its getting through. So where now? Gonna check all 4 plugs for spark and the timing marks. The dizzy cap is seated right but was wanting to double check plug 1 for firing order. If you look at engine from passenger side at the dizzy cap number 1 lead is about 5 o clock on a clock face . then going round 1342. Is yours the same?? I am sure I am overlooking something simple ( could be me) like timing or firing order etc. The fuel side seems to be ok...HELP
@@andyfarrell5975 hi andy thanks for the message. Right so have you taken out an injector nd check if fuel shoots out on crank also test when you lift the plate to see if fuel gets through that will identify if you still have an issue with the fuel system or if you need to move into the ignition system as you say. Email me at p924na1984@gmail.com I can send you a shot video of my ignition set up and position of distie so you have it for reference.
Well chuffed for you, what do you think of the upgrade springs they sell for behind the plunger in the fuel metering head to combat sticking plungers?
Thanks Paul. Good feeling getting that sorted. Just need to check the AAR on the idle at cold. Havent seen the plunger springs. Are they and after market specialist part?
@@Witty924 the plunger springs seem to be an after market part they are sold on ebay type in plunger spring for porshe 924 fuel metering head I have just ordered one just to give the plunger a bit of help seems like a good idea to me as they stick sometimes
How did you get to the bottom bolt? I can’t see it at all.
Hi Tal, thanks for the comment. It's a little difficult the bottom bolt, as you say it's not visible from the top so you need to slide in you Allen head socket by feeling with your hand. It's in the same position as the top bolt but directly underneath. I removed the cold start valve (injector) to get more space. Hope that helps 👍
@@Witty924 thanks! I’ll try that out later today. Bought a beat up ’79 last year to learn about cars. Your videos are a great help, thanks for posting them.
@@talm2891 many thanks Tal glad they help. Great to hear you have a 79, hope the work goes well, keep me posted 👍
@@Witty924 got it out, thanks for the help. Do you recommend that I refurbish it (there’s a reasonably priced kit on eBay)? Or just clean it up and make sure the screens are clear? The car doesn’t start- and may not have since 2004. So I’m working my way through it to get it going.
@@talm2891 great to hear Tal. So as a first step, open it up and just check inside. Look for any corrosion. If it's nice an clean inside then just clean up the inlet and outlet ports. Then refit and try to start. I have a little trick to help the car get started if that doesn't work. 👍
Ahhh now so that's what it was !! Well done ! I'll be at the same with mine soon and all your vids are a lifeline to me !! Thanks a mill !!
I got there in the end 👍. Big thanks Donal for the support and following. Hope your 924 fires into life too. Let us know how you get on 🤞
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I somehow lost my account password. I love any help you can give me.
@Willie Jeremiah Instablaster ;)
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Did you have to bleed the air out of wur and cold start valve?
Hey Paul, I refitted the fuels lines to the WUR and Cold starter Valve and turned the key and it fired into life. i havent seen anything on airlocks in the fuel systems before, but if you are having trouble with fuel reaching the injectors, you should take the airfilter off reach inside and lift the plate within the unit gently while you have someone crank the engine. you should get a start. you can also do this with the injectors out into glass jars to see if they operate and shoot fuel. this will force fuel through the system if your pump is all working well too. now if all the above works you need to still look at the WUR as this unit should be doing the job rather than you placing your hand on the airflow meter plate. let me know how you go. :)
What does the WUR do when the engine is warm? You mentioned something about power? Does it affect power at the higher end?
Hi Sean thanks for the comment, hope all is good with you. So it supports both cold starting running and warm running via a metallic strip. Check this link as it will be a quicker explanation www.tuningblog.eu/en/kategorien/tipps_tuev-dekra-u-co/warmlaufregler-und-tuning-darauf-gilt-es-zu-achten-340115/#:~:text=Warm%2Dup%20regulator%20ensures%20that,is%20heated%20in%20the%20process. 👍🚙💨
@@Witty924 thanks.. sounds like it helps under full load too.. interesting
I have a cold start issue on my Ferrari 308. It goes through a warm up low to high idle before idling back down after warm up. My problem is that everything is fine, starts up goes through idling process but does not kick back down like it should after warm up. Stays at high idle. Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
Hi Al, thanks for the comment. Superb to hear you have a 308. So I believe there are adjusting screws near the carbs that sets the throttle idle. Good link here for you to look at with some that have done the process. Let me know how you go Al. 👍www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/308-carb-preferred-method-for-raising-idle-speed.118702/
Thanks Witty, I have been looking so much on Ferrarichat but cannot find what in looking for. I have a fuel injected 1980 308... Thinking it might be the Warm Up Regulator,(WUR) or the cold start injector. .. With a Ferrari 308 the idling is suppose to go through 3 idle changes before idling back down which means its ready to drive. Its just stuck on the last high idle at 2800 RPM and suppose to go down to 1000 RPM when its warm , but its not. I just want to know for sure before I buy a part. Thanks for getting back, Aldo.
@@alge3399 not a problem. Best thing is to check the warm up regulator even if it's just to give it a good clean out. Do a test on the start up value. At cold remove from its seating place but still connected to the fuel system pipe. Place it into a clear jar and turn over the engine to see if it's doing its job. If it doesnt fire you know the WUR could be at fault. It sounds like it's just an idle issue that needs adjusting if you are getting the engine to start but its seating g at high revs. Let me know how you get on. Good luck 👍
@@alge3399 hi Al. Check out this video from a guy here in the UK going through the carb rebuild. He covers the idle screws. More importantly the details about high revs and timing. Hope that helps 👍 th-cam.com/video/ee8MahyiDds/w-d-xo.html
I have a 79 924 im going to change wur now
Best of luck Kurt, start with a good clean up first if that doesn't work a rebuild kit. thanks for the comment!
I greatly enjoyed this trouble shooting experience. 👍🏼
Thanks David for the comment and support. The 924 certainly keeps me busy 👍🚙💨
I think I have a problem with my WUR as well. I will be taking it off to clean. It seems way less intimidating after watching your video. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment Karin, the WUR can be temperamental but making sure its clean is a good start, let me know how you get on 👍
@@Witty924 Do you recall what size the copper washers were?
@@karinfrederking3809 Hi Karin, so I think they were either M12 or M14. I just got myself a simple copper crush washer set of ebay as I replaced a few washers around the fuel system. Something like the below, hope that helps 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200pcs-Assorted-Solid-Copper-Car-Engine-Crush-Washers-Set-Seal-Flat-Ring-UK-/363524432024?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Im having problems turning my car on it cranks and sounds good for about 5 seconds and then just turns off
Hi Alan, thanks for the comment. So I would start with the fuel system and just make sure fuel is at the injectors and dont stop after 5 seconds. You can also pressure test the fuel system to check it stays constant and doesn't drop. It could be as simple as a new fuel pump or the WUR needs a clean or refurb. Let me know how you get on 👍
@@Witty924 hey so I’ve gotten to the point to where my 924 turns on but I have to keep giving it gas to the car doesn’t turn off to the point where I can leave it on its own and is warmed up this sound like a WUR problem?
@@alancarriedo7378 Hi alan, so if the car doesnt stay running it could be the WUR. Remove the Airbox and air filter, get someone to start it while you put your hand under the plate of the air mass unit and lift slightly as it's running. You will hear the change in engine note. Keep doing this slight movement till you hear the engine idling well. Now let go and if it stalls that can mean your WUR is not keeping the pressure at the right level. If this is the case take out WUR and give a good clean around the inlet and outlet connections. Reinstall and try starting again. Let me know how you get on 👍
Thank you!
I just wonder why is it that the Porsche 924, has been like forgotten, when you think, of the 944, 911,930,Targa,Carrera, 960, it is like forgotten, just like the 912, and they are part of the history, awesome 924, it is nice that you keep that 924, on the road at least you keep that classic on the road,👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Enrique, Thanks for watching and the comment. I think the 924 is one of the greatest stories in Porsche history books. Like it or not it was a massive success for Porsche financially. Above all, Porsche was brave enough to do something that many would not have and you could argue that is the sign of great companies. They engineered a car completely different from the 911for mass production, it was a financial gamble that paid off hugely. Front engined, water-cooled, 50/50 weight distribution and they sold lots. Yes, it was a parts bin raid on VW but all the great cars share parts with not so great cars :)
@@Witty924 My question is if it was that successful, why did they stop making them, what started out as the 357, became the 911, then it changed and now is the 930 or so, even if it was rebadged, like you said that car was a huge hit with the market, you make it better not stop producing it.
@@EnriqueLopez-hb5jn You should read the history of Porsche its a great read. I believe there was a team that wanted front-engined cars to be the future of Porsche and there was a team that wanted to continue with the rear engine set up as the future. You know who won :) Ultimately they had a great run with the 924, 944, 968, 928 but the final move was to keep the rear-engined 911 and add mid-engined cars, Boxster, cayman. its a great history and example of a company taking a bet on the future. you could say 4x4's have been another financial win for the company with the Taycan leading the next charge of Porsche (no pun intended :)
I have read the story of Porsche, & how it started, by Ferdinand Porsche, and how all the different Porsche*s came to be, and how the 924/928, known in European markets, were popular, but if these cars were a winner.back in the day for Porsche why did they stop making them, of course they kept what started out as the 357, revolutionized into the 911 ,then 930, Carrera, 960 which is the present model, of course they included, the SUV*s Cayenne, then there was a model called the Maccan, included a 4 door known as the Panamera, now they even have a hybrid model .
Did you buy any new gaskets at all. I have one that needs to come off to hopefully get same result as yours. T.i.a.
Thanks for the comment Chris, I was lucky and only needed to give it a good clean, especially around the inlet and put let fittings. That said I'm rebuilding my spare with a gasket kit so will do a video on that one soon. 👍
We've had ours running after being stood for years now she won't fire up. I'll start with some fresh fuel and see where we go. When she is running stinks of petrol in that corner. Thank you.
@@christophergarrett4433 great to hear you have it running, I'm sure you know this but just check the lines back to the fuel pump to see if any leaks have developed. Cleaning the WUR and the fuel distributor unit can do wonders. Let me know how you get on 👍
I've nearly got the WUR off. Bottom bolt requires a visit home to get my Allen keys. I got 18.8 to 19.2 Ohms at the connector. Just seen your video on the pump and accumulator which frightens me. I won't be delving into that. So fingers crossed. If I find debris I will do what you did and leave the rebuild kit I think? Any suggestions where to get kit from?
@@christophergarrett4433 Hi Chris, dont be put off by it, just take your time step by step, you will get to know your car well through it. Here is the gasket set for the WUR, good kit from germnay via ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-Kit-For-Bosch-0438140011-Warm-Up-Regulator-Porsche-VW-Audi-Ford-Nissan-/184451697450?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
7:03
You were luckier than me mate I rebuilt mine put it back on and it went to shit, idling bouncing around. I've got a spare WUR did the same shit job.
Sorry to hear that DS. I know that if you rebuild them they might need resetting to set the correct fuel pressure for optimal running. Check out this post it might helpwww.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=20665
@@Witty924 I drive a MK2 Scirocco GTX 1.8 DX 8 valve. WUR part number is 0438 140 118.
Thanks for the link bud and I've saved the link, will look into the information 🙏
Ant Antstead from Wheeler Dealers modified one with a adjustment screw fitted
th-cam.com/video/VVsnF2RlEqw/w-d-xo.html found this 29 minutes in
He sure did 👍 it's a good upgrade of you have the right tool kit 🤞