If you would like to support the channel then please consider purchasing from the below affiliate links. JBL Stage 250B: amzn.to/4d4QZhC JBL Stage 10" Subwoofer: amzn.to/3ZpO3sO Below is the tool I use to test all the speaker drivers with. Dayton Audio DATs V3 tool: amzn.to/3Jn4AEG Worthwhile Upgrades: Brass nuts for the JBL Stage 250B can be found below: Brass nuts: amzn.to/3IFLOIS Brass nuts vendor 2: amzn.to/3BYrwq9 Brass lock washers: amzn.to/43iaRcK All of my review videos can be found here: th-cam.com/play/PLg0Xq1LbiZBU1G5L_QoXvFsgrd57qHZFd.html All of my look inside videos on speakers can be found here: th-cam.com/play/PLg0Xq1LbiZBXWNQtsEOqq_LynPGsLNpxy.html My videos about upgrading speakers can be found here: th-cam.com/play/PLg0Xq1LbiZBV3JdrXQtMPgv3Lc6YB6fdr.html
If a vac does not work on the tweeter, you can try some sticky tape very carefully. Use q-tip to stick the tape on and gently pull out. If the Tweeter outside really is metal, you can then use q-tip and alcohol or a mild solvent to get any tape residue off. This has worked for me in the past. If the Tweeter is still defective, I definitely would send it back and demand a refund. The woofer has a really nice motor on it. Thanks for the video.
@@Bac4-qu6qg7sk4v Like beryllium, rare and expensive, and usually protected. My dome tweeters have a metal dispersion / protection grill, another great idea by Andrew Jones and others.
It may be that the second magnet is there for shielding purposes? But is also may strengthen the field at the voice coil? It seems like they are using an L-pad on the tweeter; with the two resistors. 20W 3.9 ohm is probably the one in series with the tweeter?
I would've sent it back on principal.. a pushed in cone is not "excellent condition".. they should've told you what was wrong, and said that still produced sound, but they didn't think the sound was hampered.
There are no apparent flaws here and you can't see the clearances or design features in those motor structures. The A130 is a phenomenal speaker for a bedroom and this should be similar. The A130 woofer is fully coated with its rubber surround bonding agent. This one isn't. Like the A130 this one may exhibit phase distortion depending on which way it's wired.
how do you feel about cloned products from like aliexpress? ever since i started my hifi journey which is now a hobby lol i always seem to be upgrading speakers i buy or just making my own, i always loved brands of amps like accuphase or dartzeel but could never afford them but found out there are some clones out there that i can afford and imo sound the same or very close. just wondered what your take is on them?
I have never tried them so can't comment on how they are or how they sound. However I am very curious about some of the speakers they offer. I have seen some of their B&W clones which aren't exact copy but do look interesting. I doubt they sound anything like the real thing though.
IMO the tweeter on the LA165 is much smoother and less fatiguing than the tweeter in the 250B. But the woofer in the 250B is quite a bit nicer than the one in the LA165 - better damped, lower VC inductance, and stronger motor assembly.
I'm curious why you check the binding posts for ferro-magnetic material, but not the spade lugs on the drivers. Most of the spade lugs I've tested on speaker drivers are made ferro-magnetic material. Wouldn't this potentially be as harmful to the signal as material on binding posts?
Hello! Sure I can try and do that next time. As I stated in this video I couldn't remove the tweeter because JBL used so much glue that I would destroy the cabinet trying to remove it. In most cases I do remove the tweeter assembly so I can film the motor structure of the tweeter but can't on any of the JBL horn tweeters. In the future I'll see if I can get a camera in there to take some shots. If you blow a tweeter on these speakers, good luck trying to replace it!
I have a set in the garage! I have a car channel DIYDanCars and I use them quite often. I never thought about using them to remove the trim rings from a speaker. I'll give it a try next time. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@generationbehindhifi on my Q950's, I believe used the hook style one. I pushed the surround down with my hand and got the tool in under the trim ring and pulled up and did that all the way around until it was off.
Accuracy is imparted to a speaker/headphone by source and amplifiers. Stage A and 2 are imaging beasts made available to all. They inherently cannot do everything well. Maybe we should be thanking JBL instead of fault finding.
If you would like to support the channel then please consider purchasing from the below affiliate links.
JBL Stage 250B: amzn.to/4d4QZhC
JBL Stage 10" Subwoofer: amzn.to/3ZpO3sO
Below is the tool I use to test all the speaker drivers with.
Dayton Audio DATs V3 tool: amzn.to/3Jn4AEG
Worthwhile Upgrades:
Brass nuts for the JBL Stage 250B can be found below:
Brass nuts: amzn.to/3IFLOIS
Brass nuts vendor 2: amzn.to/3BYrwq9
Brass lock washers: amzn.to/43iaRcK
All of my review videos can be found here: th-cam.com/play/PLg0Xq1LbiZBU1G5L_QoXvFsgrd57qHZFd.html
All of my look inside videos on speakers can be found here: th-cam.com/play/PLg0Xq1LbiZBXWNQtsEOqq_LynPGsLNpxy.html
My videos about upgrading speakers can be found here: th-cam.com/play/PLg0Xq1LbiZBV3JdrXQtMPgv3Lc6YB6fdr.html
Thanks for another look inside video. Always great to see the construction of a speaker. Keep up the great work and rock on!
No problem! Thanks for the kind words!
This format is really great. I hope you keep doing this.
Thanks, Ryan! I really appreciate the kind words.
If a vac does not work on the tweeter, you can try some sticky tape very carefully. Use q-tip to stick the tape on and gently pull out. If the Tweeter outside really is metal, you can then use q-tip and alcohol or a mild solvent to get any tape residue off. This has worked for me in the past. If the Tweeter is still defective, I definitely would send it back and demand a refund. The woofer has a really nice motor on it. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the tip! I will give that a try.
Vac on a metal dome may not be the best idea. Some are so fragile even the most gentle tape job will make it worse
@@Bac4-qu6qg7sk4v Like beryllium, rare and expensive, and usually protected. My dome tweeters have a metal dispersion / protection grill, another great idea by Andrew Jones and others.
the extra magnet on the woofer is a "bucking magnet" it only reduce the stray magnetic fields so it can be closer to sensitive devices.
he knows about bucking magnets; he's mentioned them in other videos
Sometimes an extra magnet is used to help increase efficiency.
@@shipsahoy1793 he came across in this video talking about how many magnets creates a powerful magnet structure to give impressive bass.
@@sudd3660 yeah I know and somebody just told you a larger magnet structure increases efficiency
It actually does more than that and adds more flux into the system as well and increases motor force
Please do a look inside of your b&w 801
😂
Great content
Good for surround channels.
It may be that the second magnet is there for shielding purposes? But is also may strengthen the field at the voice coil?
It seems like they are using an L-pad on the tweeter; with the two resistors. 20W 3.9 ohm is probably the one in series with the tweeter?
I would've sent it back on principal.. a pushed in cone is not "excellent condition"..
they should've told you what was wrong, and said that still produced sound, but they didn't think the sound was hampered.
Bucking or shielding magnets show they raided their 1990’s parts bucket.
Haha didnt even think about that
Nothing wrong with buckling magnets because they do have some benefits.
@@generationbehindhifi not really anymore
The new fabled Elac 3.0 need to be on your radar
Its on the list for sure!
There are no apparent flaws here and you can't see the clearances or design features in those motor structures. The A130 is a phenomenal speaker for a bedroom and this should be similar. The A130 woofer is fully coated with its rubber surround bonding agent. This one isn't. Like the A130 this one may exhibit phase distortion depending on which way it's wired.
how do you feel about cloned products from like aliexpress? ever since i started my hifi journey which is now a hobby lol i always seem to be upgrading speakers i buy or just making my own, i always loved brands of amps like accuphase or dartzeel but could never afford them but found out there are some clones out there that i can afford and imo sound the same or very close. just wondered what your take is on them?
I have never tried them so can't comment on how they are or how they sound. However I am very curious about some of the speakers they offer. I have seen some of their B&W clones which aren't exact copy but do look interesting. I doubt they sound anything like the real thing though.
@@generationbehindhifi yeah there speaker clones are ok but just like the real ones the crossover is cheese parts lol
JBL on the B&W 805 stand. The stands worth more than the speakers.
Good eye! These are the only bookshelf stands I have. :)
But how does it compare to the Cerwin-Vega LA165? $130 better?
IMO the tweeter on the LA165 is much smoother and less fatiguing than the tweeter in the 250B. But the woofer in the 250B is quite a bit nicer than the one in the LA165 - better damped, lower VC inductance, and stronger motor assembly.
No speaker is worth the price it costs!! They make a lot of money, that's why there are so many manufacturers!
I'm curious why you check the binding posts for ferro-magnetic material, but not the spade lugs on the drivers. Most of the spade lugs I've tested on speaker drivers are made ferro-magnetic material. Wouldn't this potentially be as harmful to the signal as material on binding posts?
can you use a camera to see the tweeter on the inside on future videos , i always like to see all inside parts.
Hello! Sure I can try and do that next time. As I stated in this video I couldn't remove the tweeter because JBL used so much glue that I would destroy the cabinet trying to remove it. In most cases I do remove the tweeter assembly so I can film the motor structure of the tweeter but can't on any of the JBL horn tweeters. In the future I'll see if I can get a camera in there to take some shots.
If you blow a tweeter on these speakers, good luck trying to replace it!
@@generationbehindhifi never miss one of your inside speaker videos 👍
@@elmenomaronido6653 Thanks, buddy! I appreciate that!
@@generationbehindhifia phone or USB endoscope camera perhaps :)
Do yourself a favor and purchase a nylon door removal tool set. It's what I purchased to remove the trim rings on my Kefs.
I have a set in the garage! I have a car channel DIYDanCars and I use them quite often. I never thought about using them to remove the trim rings from a speaker. I'll give it a try next time. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@generationbehindhifi on my Q950's, I believe used the hook style one. I pushed the surround down with my hand and got the tool in under the trim ring and pulled up and did that all the way around until it was off.
😅😅😅sorry. Aber das crossover kostet keine 5$/€. Die 250b kostet 90$/€ mehr als ein paar Rp600mk 2 in germany. No questions??👍🇩🇪
Cheap quality components
PSB crossover boards - terrible
Thanks, this pair of speakers is not worth more than $100
Accuracy is imparted to a speaker/headphone by source and amplifiers. Stage A and 2 are imaging beasts made available to all. They inherently cannot do everything well. Maybe we should be thanking JBL instead of fault finding.