For some reason i feel more comfortable with ring terminals, i always feel that with time rattling can make things loose.. the ring terminals seem a bit more secure but thats just my opinion.. i love your videos keep them coming!
just ground the engine block, and as i understand positive from alternator to battery is unnecessary, but a ground from alternator to the battery would help.... it's just increaseing the drain to improve issue with emf
Kinda crazy to think of the condition of your wiring in a fairly newer car. I have a car thats 46 yrs old..the wires are still pretty good. Nice job bro! Hopefully no more issues with it.
Looks fantastic! but honestly, this is a huge over kill for most modern vehicles, and just extra money. The electrical issues are absolutely associated to another problem. You could simple just add a couple in a chain and achieve the same amount of grounding if you're looking to increase your grounding effectiveness. Something worth noting. The 12v chargers inside should be left empty when not in use, they cause issues on this platform. Check under your carpet for grounding in the harness anywhere as well. GL OP! Solid editing
Just upgraded the body mount grounds on both sides of my motor and just ground it out with a 2 gauge wire I can feel a much more efficient burn this pedal I was having all kinds of weird electric issues got them on Amazon 12” 2 gauge for 20 bucks I’m telling you guys so much better
Hi! I have a question. Can I run the wire from a positive battery terminal to a bolt that holds an alternator instead of the alternator outlet? In my car Honda Element, the alternator outlet is really hard to reach. If I want to connect to that (B) outlet, I must take the whole alternator out which is way beyond me.
@@Bee-jt5wo technically it can work but if you’re having electrical issues just ground the alternator straight to the chassis. It doesn’t have to be from the alternator, as long as the engine is grounded, that’s all that’s needed other than the cylinder head ground and battery ground
@@freshprinceofcharlotte 20 feet should be just enough if you want to also make a wire from the positive terminal to the starter but it also wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a little extra on hand just in case you become confident and wanna do a bunch of other grounds for fun haha
Did you completely remove the OEM Power wire from Alternator to Battery? I am unsure, but does the OEM Power wire have smaller wires attached to it, like the knock sensor other such wires that I should not mess with? Did you cut the 2 wires connected to the OEM Power wire and moved those 2 to the new silver and gold terminal connector? What was the reasoning for 2 grounding wires in 1 terminal? as well as the old chassis and new chassis grounding wire?
I did a simple upgrade by adding wires to the current charging system. You could remove the OEM charge harness and use your own but I didn't do that because I wanted to keep the video simple. In this video, I only removed that bad ground from chassis to the motor mount on the passenger side. Yes the OEM harness has additional wires, for the alternator and knock sensor. You could unravel it, retain those wires and replace the power wire. The battery has one ground, I just added another because that was I did to all the other connections. I just an extra wire to each ground to help the charging system
@@Rawrkee Thank you for the reply! I almost have everything I need to do the BIG 3. and I will be removing the old power wire and splicing the loom. I will also replace all the small ground wire with the 0guage ones.
I didn't make the video but I can tell you. Absolutely you can if you do not have any upgrades that require extra electrical power than 4guage would be more than enough as long as it's pure copper wire. This is a great idea in fact because you're stock wires are likely not in good shape I know mine weren't on my 09 acura csx 😂
Hey man, you use 0 gauge everywhere. What size did you use to replace the oem negative wire? Getting an annoying issue where I kill the cells on my battery every 6 months. Tired of buying new batteries. Thanks for your help
I used 0 gauge for the grounds as well. I kept the OEM grounds and simply paired them with the 0 gauge wire. With them being so huge, I could probably remove the OEM grounds and it shouldn’t cause an issue. I should’ve mentioned that I was having draining issues AND my power steering would randomly go out while driving. Both issues were fixed after this upgrade
I posted the links in the description, it's all custom made but you can probably find a kit. If you don't want to use OFC wire, you can use CCA but I recommend 1/0 gauge. I previously used 4 gauge CCA and it didn't work too well
Generally, there are 3 on most cars. Battery ground, transmission ground, and engine ground. You can try cleaning the mating surfaces with a wire brush, this upgrade is meant for upgraded sound systems
I'm glad the video helped out a lot bro! My prelude has been doing great, I've done a few projects here and there but I didn't bother to vlog it :/ I'll put something together soon :D
yeah bro! I'm going to do this upgrade to the prelude very soon too but it's pretty much the same concept on all cars. Upgrade the chassis ground wires, battery ground wire, and power wire from alternator to positive terminal on the battery
Even if you upgraded the alternator, you would still need to upgrade the wires anyway. By doing this wire upgrade, you’re increasing power flow even if it’s not by much but it fixed my electrical issues and now my power steering doesn’t randomly die on me while driving 😆
@@RawrkeeONLY if you upgrade the alternator would you need bigger wiring. Now I say bigger, not newer. Sometimes wiring does oxidize or corrode (especially those pesky grounding straps, ew) which would merit replacement. However, for 90A you could have ran 6AWG wiring and been fine, even considering heat, resistance and voltage drop (which the engineers did when designing the factory charging system). Increasing wire size does not inherently increase current flow, it just decreases resistance from the wiring, but if the wire size is already sufficient for the rated current that the alternator is capable of producing, it’s not really doing anything for you. Basically, the wiring only has to be adequate for the alternator’s rated output because that’s all that’s ever going to flow across the wiring to the battery. With the wiring you’ve added you could easily run a 400A alternator haha Now the wiring AFTER the battery is a different story because the battery can and will output far more current than the alternator, so definitely not a bad idea to upgrade outgoing wiring, especially for loads that don’t have a constant current demand (like starters or amplifiers, etc).
Any big 3 upgrade with pure copper wire will do you will just need to cut the wires to size and crimp a ring terminal with heat shrink on the end you cut. I recommend sky high car audio big 3 kit. If you do not have upgrades that require substantially more electrical power than stock a 4guage wire kit would be more than enough. Hope this helps even tho it's a year later😂
For some reason i feel more comfortable with ring terminals, i always feel that with time rattling can make things loose.. the ring terminals seem a bit more secure but thats just my opinion.. i love your videos keep them coming!
just ground the engine block, and as i understand positive from alternator to battery is unnecessary, but a ground from alternator to the battery would help.... it's just increaseing the drain to improve issue with emf
Kinda crazy to think of the condition of your wiring in a fairly newer car. I have a car thats 46 yrs old..the wires are still pretty good. Nice job bro! Hopefully no more issues with it.
back in the day they used to make great quality cars and components used were much much better quality
That’s Honda for ya lmao
Looks fantastic! but honestly, this is a huge over kill for most modern vehicles, and just extra money. The electrical issues are absolutely associated to another problem. You could simple just add a couple in a chain and achieve the same amount of grounding if you're looking to increase your grounding effectiveness. Something worth noting. The 12v chargers inside should be left empty when not in use, they cause issues on this platform. Check under your carpet for grounding in the harness anywhere as well. GL OP! Solid editing
Looks good brother.
thanks bro!
Great video!! lots of benefit from big 3 upgrade. Great upgrade for stock or with car system.
Just upgraded the body mount grounds on both sides of my motor and just ground it out with a 2 gauge wire I can feel a much more efficient burn this pedal I was having all kinds of weird electric issues got them on Amazon 12” 2 gauge for 20 bucks I’m telling you guys so much better
Note that my grounds were very rusted and I had a power loss of .5 volts on one side. So idk if that helps
really like your video. its down to earth and chill. Well done
Thanks! I'm def doing this to Frank, my '07 Si.
Heck yeah, these k series can start doin weird things because of a small loose ground -_-
It might ...hurt
Id check the brush pack 1st for weak charge wire is from alt to pos batt.
Hey bro kinda late to the party but will 14 gauge ofc wire do? The link u shared only shows in 14 gauge and all other ones are kinda pricy for me atm
yessss finally one for the 8th gen
Hi! I have a question. Can I run the wire from a positive battery terminal to a bolt that holds an alternator instead of the alternator outlet? In my car Honda Element, the alternator outlet is really hard to reach. If I want to connect to that (B) outlet, I must take the whole alternator out which is way beyond me.
No, you cannot but you can use any bolt from the alternator as a ground for the "engine to chassis"
thank you@@Rawrkee
how about from the alternator both to negative battery terminal, can I do that? @@Rawrkee
@@Bee-jt5wo technically it can work but if you’re having electrical issues just ground the alternator straight to the chassis. It doesn’t have to be from the alternator, as long as the engine is grounded, that’s all that’s needed other than the cylinder head ground and battery ground
thank you@@Rawrkee
Yea major overkill but good job thinking about the routing and accidents. I actually did get a fire from a cable rubbing thru and grounding out.
Spray some corrosion prevention on those clean terminals bro!
thanks for the tip bro! Good thing I haven't driven her in the rain lately. I need to get the AC back up and workin 😆
did you ever have to do an ELD bypass ?
Never heard of it but my electrical system is running perfectly now
How much you got for your Civic Si Sedan for including miles?
I want to know about how much I'm looking spend to own one.
5-10k for a stock one
I got mine in 2020, I think. it was 199k miles and I talked him down to 3500. Si keep their value even with high mileage
I have a 8th gen also. How much wire did you use so i know how much to buy . Thanks
@@freshprinceofcharlotte 20 feet should be just enough if you want to also make a wire from the positive terminal to the starter but it also wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a little extra on hand just in case you become confident and wanna do a bunch of other grounds for fun haha
What did you do with the negative battery sensor?
Sorry when you put the big 3 it is necessary to put the fuse holder, only when you have sound in the car?
The fussing was a smart idea I'm doing mine soon and I'll be fusing with 150 watt anl fuse..
I’m doing this next cause my 06 si struggle to start pluse my temp gauge is going crazy and reads hot sometimes without it going hot smh
Did you completely remove the OEM Power wire from Alternator to Battery? I am unsure, but does the OEM Power wire have smaller wires attached to it, like the knock sensor other such wires that I should not mess with?
Did you cut the 2 wires connected to the OEM Power wire and moved those 2 to the new silver and gold terminal connector?
What was the reasoning for 2 grounding wires in 1 terminal? as well as the old chassis and new chassis grounding wire?
I did a simple upgrade by adding wires to the current charging system. You could remove the OEM charge harness and use your own but I didn't do that because I wanted to keep the video simple.
In this video, I only removed that bad ground from chassis to the motor mount on the passenger side. Yes the OEM harness has additional wires, for the alternator and knock sensor. You could unravel it, retain those wires and replace the power wire.
The battery has one ground, I just added another because that was I did to all the other connections. I just an extra wire to each ground to help the charging system
So pretty much, there are three ground wires and one power wire. Instead of replacing them, I just placed another wire on top of them
@@Rawrkee Thank you for the reply! I almost have everything I need to do the BIG 3. and I will be removing the old power wire and splicing the loom. I will also replace all the small ground wire with the 0guage ones.
Can you do this even if I don't have a big stereo? Just to refresh my 17 yo honda?
I didn't make the video but I can tell you. Absolutely you can if you do not have any upgrades that require extra electrical power than 4guage would be more than enough as long as it's pure copper wire. This is a great idea in fact because you're stock wires are likely not in good shape I know mine weren't on my 09 acura csx 😂
Hey man, you use 0 gauge everywhere. What size did you use to replace the oem negative wire?
Getting an annoying issue where I kill the cells on my battery every 6 months. Tired of buying new batteries. Thanks for your help
I used 0 gauge for the grounds as well. I kept the OEM grounds and simply paired them with the 0 gauge wire. With them being so huge, I could probably remove the OEM grounds and it shouldn’t cause an issue. I should’ve mentioned that I was having draining issues AND my power steering would randomly go out while driving. Both issues were fixed after this upgrade
@@Rawrkee that's awesome. I have the same issue. Battery drains and my mechanic sees no power draw.
Thanks for the quick reply!
Are those csx headlights???
No, the CSX are light grey. These are fd2 headlights, they just have a dark tint compared to the CSX headlights
where can I get those wires for my 09 Honda Civic EX?
I posted the links in the description, it's all custom made but you can probably find a kit. If you don't want to use OFC wire, you can use CCA but I recommend 1/0 gauge. I previously used 4 gauge CCA and it didn't work too well
how many ground does these 8th gen have .. i found only 3. I'm having problem with electrical ...
Generally, there are 3 on most cars. Battery ground, transmission ground, and engine ground. You can try cleaning the mating surfaces with a wire brush, this upgrade is meant for upgraded sound systems
@@Rawrkee
got it thks ... 👍
Bro how's your Prelude doing??? My harmonic balancer shit itself and now I'm replacing it.. Your video on it is very helpful!
I'm glad the video helped out a lot bro! My prelude has been doing great, I've done a few projects here and there but I didn't bother to vlog it :/ I'll put something together soon :D
Maybe an upgrade to a lithium battery as well? Those battery clamps are nice and they are going to get mucked up with acid.
Can we get something like this for the prelude. I’m so lost as to what to do 😢 and I’m struggling to find a rear bumper
yeah bro! I'm going to do this upgrade to the prelude very soon too but it's pretty much the same concept on all cars. Upgrade the chassis ground wires, battery ground wire, and power wire from alternator to positive terminal on the battery
Did this fix your charging issue?
Yes, the civic runs fine and starts up easily. Originally, my power steering would stop working while driving but now it’s all good
Doesn't make sense coming off a 90amp oem alternator.
Even if you upgraded the alternator, you would still need to upgrade the wires anyway. By doing this wire upgrade, you’re increasing power flow even if it’s not by much but it fixed my electrical issues and now my power steering doesn’t randomly die on me while driving 😆
@@RawrkeeONLY if you upgrade the alternator would you need bigger wiring. Now I say bigger, not newer. Sometimes wiring does oxidize or corrode (especially those pesky grounding straps, ew) which would merit replacement. However, for 90A you could have ran 6AWG wiring and been fine, even considering heat, resistance and voltage drop (which the engineers did when designing the factory charging system). Increasing wire size does not inherently increase current flow, it just decreases resistance from the wiring, but if the wire size is already sufficient for the rated current that the alternator is capable of producing, it’s not really doing anything for you. Basically, the wiring only has to be adequate for the alternator’s rated output because that’s all that’s ever going to flow across the wiring to the battery. With the wiring you’ve added you could easily run a 400A alternator haha
Now the wiring AFTER the battery is a different story because the battery can and will output far more current than the alternator, so definitely not a bad idea to upgrade outgoing wiring, especially for loads that don’t have a constant current demand (like starters or amplifiers, etc).
K20z3 has a 120 amp alternator btw
@@brandonhooker4498false
💪🏾✊🏾
where can I get those wires for my 09 Honda Civic EX?
Any big 3 upgrade with pure copper wire will do you will just need to cut the wires to size and crimp a ring terminal with heat shrink on the end you cut. I recommend sky high car audio big 3 kit. If you do not have upgrades that require substantially more electrical power than stock a 4guage wire kit would be more than enough. Hope this helps even tho it's a year later😂