Landon Me is right. At 4:31, don't line up the tab on the wear ring with the large hole for the tube, line it up with the bolt hole closest to that tube hole. It'll still work if installed as shown in the video, but if the wear ring spins, the tube can be damaged. I found the video today because mine IS installed like the video. Ski runs fine but I'll change it this weekend.
Thanks, I found some other videos showing how they took the bottom two bolts out which required a 1/4" extension, but I Was able to do it how you showed with a 3/8" extension, no problem.
have already replaced mine for a 3rd time now if you have plastic wear rings currently go ahead and invest in a steel one because they are shit and will continue to break over and over
Great video, however a note for next time, or anyone about to do their own wear ring... At 2:21 There is an easier way to get that little tube off. You totally did it the hard way lol. You do not need to undo the hose clamp. Leave it tight. Just grab it and give it a pull. The little metal nipple the clear tube is on, comes out with the tube!! It just plugs back in when you put it back together.
Good video but you misinformed people on where the notch on the wear ring goes. It’s supposed to line up with the upper bolt datum not the hose. The datum is to prevent it from rotating. If it rotates connected to the hose, it will rip the hose off.
Hey just want to thank you for your video because you saved me 279. Bucks not only that but my daughter has Downsyndrom She loves getting out on the water driving the sea doo thanks for video
Regrease the splines and use a bit of that same synthetic grease on the wear ring seal will help it seat easier. Torque specs for those three pump to hull bolts should be 16 ftlbs. It’s too easy to gall soft aluminum threads,relative to steel, if you crank them down too tight. And yes, the wear ring should be clocked to the metal post at the 11 o’clock position , not the hose. It seems hard to find a DIY video that does not leave something out, like greasing splines and wear ring seal and gives the proper torque specs, or have some errors. Doing what works may cause more issues than doing it right, long term. The existing loctite should be cleaned off the fasteners and threads. I am in the middle of doing this job, ring comes in today, watched a lot of videos and have not found one yet that covers all the fine details of the proper procedure.
@@bruneprune I am still gathering bits of knowledge and tips on how to do it and not miss some steps. I don’t have a manual, so just gleaning a bit from all the various how-to videos. I don’t have an interest in making my own video.
The hose right next to the bolt your asking about will make it seem like your socket is set but you need to push a little harder before starting to loosen to make sure the socket is set onto the bolt properly. Make sure you're putting your socket, swivel, and extension in the similar location as shown at 2:47, just on the other side. He shows it at 2:55 but it's a bad angle.
Landon Me is right. At 4:31, don't line up the tab on the wear ring with the large hole for the tube, line it up with the bolt hole closest to that tube hole. It'll still work if installed as shown in the video, but if the wear ring spins, the tube can be damaged. I found the video today because mine IS installed like the video. Ski runs fine but I'll change it this weekend.
Thanks, I found some other videos showing how they took the bottom two bolts out which required a 1/4" extension, but I Was able to do it how you showed with a 3/8" extension, no problem.
Thank you sir, you made it look easy, the shop out here said they would quote 4 hours, did it in 45 thanks to this vid! Brap brap!!!
Awesome! Was paranoid about mine. You made it look easy
have already replaced mine for a 3rd time now if you have plastic wear rings currently go ahead and invest in a steel one because they are shit and will continue to break over and over
Thanks for this video, I followed it and it was easy. I replaced the normal ones with stainless. Saved me some $$.
Is the stainless better do they last longer?
@@mickelion6198 should last longer, the oem is a really flimsy plastic.
Great video, however a note for next time, or anyone about to do their own wear ring...
At 2:21 There is an easier way to get that little tube off. You totally did it the hard way lol.
You do not need to undo the hose clamp. Leave it tight. Just grab it and give it a pull. The little metal nipple the clear tube is on, comes out with the tube!! It just plugs back in when you put it back together.
Good video but you misinformed people on where the notch on the wear ring goes. It’s supposed to line up with the upper bolt datum not the hose.
The datum is to prevent it from rotating. If it rotates connected to the hose, it will rip the hose off.
Hey just want to thank you for your video because you saved me 279. Bucks not only that but my daughter has Downsyndrom
She loves getting out on the water driving the sea doo thanks for video
Thanks glad it helped!
Hands down, spot on... my Seadoo had the exact same issue, everyone in the family claimed no rocks had been sucked in.
Great video. Thanks
Dude, thank you so much for this video. Going thru this now
You don’t line those tabs on the wear ring with the plastic pipe
So the busting you said not to lose…. Is it just one on the right side?
can you check your wear ring condition from underneath? without removing anything?
Yes. Check if the wear ring is out or broken. You need to flip it tho
Regrease the splines and use a bit of that same synthetic grease on the wear ring seal will help it seat easier. Torque specs for those three pump to hull bolts should be 16 ftlbs. It’s too easy to gall soft aluminum threads,relative to steel, if you crank them down too tight. And yes, the wear ring should be clocked to the metal post at the 11 o’clock position , not the hose. It seems hard to find a DIY video that does not leave something out, like greasing splines and wear ring seal and gives the proper torque specs, or have some errors. Doing what works may cause more issues than doing it right, long term. The existing loctite should be cleaned off the fasteners and threads.
I am in the middle of doing this job, ring comes in today, watched a lot of videos and have not found one yet that covers all the fine details of the proper procedure.
I have a video on how to film a video. Would love to see your video to help pass on the knowledge.
@@bruneprune I am still gathering bits of knowledge and tips on how to do it and not miss some steps. I don’t have a manual, so just gleaning a bit from all the various how-to videos. I don’t have an interest in making my own video.
You installed the ring incorrectly those tabs are so the ring doesn’t spin
Very helpful broi replaced mine
How much space between wear ring and sacrificial ring gtx 155?
How did you get the bottom left bolt out? I can’t get it for the life of me.
The hose right next to the bolt your asking about will make it seem like your socket is set but you need to push a little harder before starting to loosen to make sure the socket is set onto the bolt properly. Make sure you're putting your socket, swivel, and extension in the similar location as shown at 2:47, just on the other side. He shows it at 2:55 but it's a bad angle.
Use Orange ThreadLock it’s 3X Stronger than Blue. It’s what they used on my 2022 Sea Doo spark Trixx
Does the gasket go on the smaller side of the wear ring or longer end piece?
i believe there is a little step down on the end the gasket gets rolled onto.
How did you take out that last one with the damn flush kit in the way? I assume you used a swivel and a deep socket?
i believe so. its tricky to get at.
Thumbs up just for the cat
Why is rhe socket on your ratchet when you "do" the bottom left
I’m asking because mines fell and I didn’t know exactly where it fell from
You installed wear ring clocked wrong. 🤦🏼. Or tried to anyways.
I noticed that too.. If it spins it’s gonna rip the hose off
Thanks
You can snap it off that’s what I did