A leaky capacitor in the PCM is the answer to the question: "Is there something that leaks down with the switch off?" (at 43:10) At 37:40 the voltage from the PCM starts at 10.3 and goes to 10.1V. At 39:30 with the key on for half an hour, starts at 12.1 and goes to 10.8V. The lower voltage provides less energy, a little lower voltage and it would never make any pressure. Thank you for your videos !
I live in the south, and I always get kinda sad seeing these trucks that work up in the salt belts just get absolutely devoured by rust.. Makes me endlessly appreciate my non-rusted vehicles down here even more..
Andrew Camarata on his channel, sells his stubborn scrap junk on eBay and fans buy the stuff up! @watchweswork, you need to sell that on eBay and I'll make a necklace out of it, like Taryl from Taryl Fixes All does, with a spark plug.
I thought the same thing when that sucker un threaded finally. I have a proud collection of broken and seized nuts and bolts displayed on my work bench lol it’s like rusty art!
I don't know if you figured out the long crank issue, but I had the same problem on two 7.3. Both were 95, both had excess of 250,000. Neither had ever had injector O rings replaced. Finally checked the secondary filter on the drivers side of the fuel filter on top of the engine. I'm sure you've seen this, but opened it up and cleaned it. They were both full of O ring particles and nasty stuff. The way it was explained to me, the return fuel or unused fuel from the injectors is sent back to the filter housing through this filter. The long start issue both times started slowly, over moths and months. When I finally had to figure it out I was stranded in an airport parking lot and it took at least 20 minutes to get it to start. This was also about 2 months or so after I ran it out of fuel while running down the interstate. The second time was shortly after buying the other truck. Both times the filter was the problem. Cleaned it both times and had no other starting issues and put A LOT of miles on both. Just my 2 cents. Great videos buddy.
I have watched many of your old videos over the last couple weeks. After watching them I have learned one thing. I'm not the only on that works on old Equipment. The 7.3 PowerStroke holds a special place in my heart. My daily driver is a 99 F250 7.3 with 247K on the clock and I love it!!! I always watch about any video about them. It has to be one of the trucks Ford ever built. THANK YOU for your videos and look forward to watching many more.
My 1996 f350 crew cab long bed 4x4 dually has 332,000. 7.3 with the e4od. My late 1999 f250 extended cab long bed 2wd has 354,000, 7.3 with the 4r100. Both are excellent trucks
I've never been a Ford guy, but that inspection hole at 3:10 is genius, you don't even have to bend over to look underneath the truck to see how rusted it is. Brilliant!
There's nothing quite like the sound of a 7.3 Powerstroke. My dad had a '96 F-250 with the extended cab and the roof lights on top. Man that was a solid truck.
I bought my Dads 78 f150 in 88 when I turned 18! Owning that 300 inline 6 3speed overdrive tought me everything I've ever needed to know about Fixing my ride on the side of the road!!! From when my buddy and me coming back from dirt biking in Pinckney No. Locked up the gear box on I94 and Mt Elliot in ghetto Detroit. Good thing Pops was stationed at E23-S3 dfd! It made its way to the back yard in Roseville my neighbor Joe found a boneyard 3speed put that puppy in and a sparko shift kit from Kmart!! Then the shift lever fell out I welded one with bolts long enough to work!!! Then the starter bendix locked up bought one at Warren Auto rebuilt that! Then the gas tank rusted through we used a self tapper bolt and a break strap sealed up with rtv! Ext....
I am extremely impressed at how you got the snapped brake bleeder out. I’ve taken out broken exhaust manifold studs by welding a nut on them, but I never welded a bolt to a snapped and frozen brake wheel cylinder bleeder and then coaxed it out with the air hammer. Excellent job!!
Had a similar problem on my '95 (long crank, sometimes forever crank), turned out the IDM relay was intermittent. Contacts in the fuse box had loosened up somehow (heat?) - bent them back in with a pick so that the relay plugged in solidly, problem went away. Maybe with the key on the relay stays energized, letting it crank normally.
Whenever I weld a nut to a broken bolt or in this case a bleeder I like to cool it with pb blaster rather than water. When the bolt cools it contracts and pull the penetrant down into the threads. Makes a huge difference.
I had the SAME EXACT PROBLEM on my 2001 Powersmoke! My truck died at a red light and had to wait 2hours and 30minutes to be towed 1 mile back to my house. Next day plugged in Forscan and started diagnosing. Saw that the ICP was reading only 180psi. Took a look at the pigtail SAME like your video corroded wires exposed and it was shorting. My IPR had the SAME problem the gasket melted on the inside. Went to Ford spent 300$ on a new IPR and 10$ on the pigtail. Fired right up and no issues ever since! I believe if I swapped out the pigtail and cleaned the old IPR with electrical cleaner it would’ve worked and it would’ve saved me 300$!
Those guys are amazing really, they can make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Some of the chassis joining techniques they use is less than ideal, but hey.
@@dh-_1011 Well, ok, there are a few differences. On PT I've never seen a "lovely Mrs. PT", nor have I seen anything like Wes's son, dog, washing machine, corn field, scan tool, and signal generator, or a mystery woman driving across the country in her live-in SUV. Everything else is pretty similar.
i am studying to become a mechanical engineer and i love watching wes do complicated problem solving on these trucks. It’s like you’re there with him going “what would be causing the engine not to turn over?” Not to mention the humor and professionalism he projects
Lol, we had about the same situation. Had a 96 7.3 that my dad bought at a salvage action. It used to be a plow truck in Michigan. Dad had fixed it up and it was ready for farm use, the only thing was the brakes didn't work and it wasn't licensed. Dad didn't have time to fix the rest, so It sat outside for about 16 years before we got it running this past spring. Runs great now!
I daily drive a 97. Played the IPR rebuild and corresponding solenoid replacement game, more times than I care to admit. Somewhat satisfying to see someone else do it lol. Fighting with VSS codes now. Road goes on forever and the party never ends. Peg has some great instructional videos on 7.3’s also, If you haven’t already seen lol.
I would look into the internal power supply of the ecm. Maybe some caps gone. Power supply unstable when they are fully drained which not happens when the ignition is immediately turned on again.
Glad my truck and I are in texas....I have a 97 CCLB 4x4 that doesn't have a spec of rust on it. Its my daily driver, doesn't leak a drop and gets 18+mpg on 37"s. Then again I'm just getting it broke in at 267K miles. Best things I ever did was trash that filter housing and pump and convert to a frame mounted pump and filter, way cleaner look and way more room to work.
What new trucks are going for, it's well worth the time, effort and treasure to bring one these back to life. Plus you won't have to use spend money on DEF .
I bought a brand new 1995 F350 regular cab single rear wheel 4x4 truck (like in this video) but my truck had a 460 gas engine. That truck was awesome.... of course it was brand new. It sure did love to drink gas though. Thankfully in the mid 90's gas was only $1.10 - $1.30 per gallon. It had 4.10 gears, auto transmission with NO overdrive. I loved that truck. It was still rust free when I traded it in.... I have always wondered what happened to that truck after I got rid of it. It's probably rustier than the truck in this video.... if it even still exists today. Lol
Wes, love your diagnosis and description of various well used equipment. Being a retired Engr equipment mechanic who worked in south and in Middle east Lots of desert and not in tune with salt and rust. Your videos introduced me to the only rusted out oil pans and diff covers Ever. I'd heard of them but only in coffee conversation. Keep up the good content and conscientious way you take care of customers.
The 'Vague-shifter' is likely the two torx bolts that hold the bell-crank to the shift rail on the bottom of the column. I've seen several of those back out to cause that issue...
@@NotSureJoeBauers Ford liked this column design so much, that they used in most of their vehicles from the time period - just about anything from a Taurus or bigger... It's likely that your Ranger used the same column, and therefore would be susceptible to the same issue (pattern failure).
Yes, a common problem. I also put on lock-tite, easy fix.Also rust jacking of the shaft going thru the neutral switch where it mounts on the transmission swells and binds the switch causing hard, stiff shifting of the lever. Found both problems on the same truck.
Appreciate the diagnosis...that was really my Grandaddy's passion. He was a diesel generator mechanic for Carter Machinery, but he could fix pretty much anything with the patience to learn about it and then go one step at a time.
I seldom sign in but this guy is so good I even subscribed! No "now I'm going to take the wheel off" then watch the dude take the wheel off. No fluff, excellent description of his work. Great show! The best yet. The punch lines are great! Thnks man and keep em coming!
I've got a 2003 7.3 2-wd with a 114,000 miles . An Arkansas No rust truck but it does have a few whisky dents . I don't use it much but being the original owner it's a hell a trailer pulling truck . Man it's Made a Ford diesel truck person out of me . Hard to beat a POERSTROKE . GREAT VIDEO sir
Man my hats off to you mechanics up north. It’s crazy what you guys have to work on. When I run into a rusty bolt we’re I’m from I usually don’t know what to do. All the bolts you guys deal with are rusted worse than any bolt I see.
That “Tower of Power” welded onto that bleeder was a work of art. And I’m feeling ya on the rodent invasion. The International I just bought had a massive nest that was inside the squirrel cage and all over the heater core. Took some next-level cleaning to stanch the stench, you might say. Friggin’ vermin.
It’s crazy that vehicles rust away so quickly up north. I’ve lived in Maryland, Iowa, and now I live in Georgia. I can say from experience that these old Fords bring big numbers around me. You are an amazing mechanic Sir. Thank you for the awesome videos!
I've had a couple diffs with rotten covers and stuck fill plugs. I drilled a hole in the new cover at the same height as the fill plug and welded in a threaded bung to fill the axle. Depends on what you're working on. If it was a customer rig I'd run it by them before I did it or not. It worked great on my rusty old farm trucks.
Great Job Wes, I respect your tenacity, you are inspirational, and your helper is an angel, helpful, handy, and happy. Wonderful for you guys!! Appreciate your videos.
Yeah, I am going to grab the battery with my hands since I cannot afford all your fancy tools! Probably my favorite F-series body style! I even like the colors(minus that common IL rust color, of course). Too hot??? I will be referring you to your own video come January! lol
Ya, I like the shark noses as well, but I prefer the idi motors. They're so simple(doesn't run? must not be getting fuel!). I lost partial hearing in that spectrum, so the clatter doesn't bother me anymore. Wife is jealous , though(about the hearing)...
No I'm not going too imagine that and I did NOT need a description of it Either bubba.... dang glad I don't have to get in that truck and smell that shit.....
26:54 hard to tell from the angle but it looks like it's got a posi traction in that truck I love them old 7.3 trucks I Wish International still made that motor for Ford
@@ChristisKing7749 Common problem with Ziebart. It was *supposed* to adhere so tightly to that moisture couldn't get in, but in most cases it had some voids that allowed moisture to build up without being seen until the damage was catastrophic. An exception was my ex-girlfriend's first car, an infamous machine called an Austin Allegro. It was ancient when she bought it, but in amazing condition thanks to one of the few applications of Ziebart that did its job properly.
I can't believe you fixed the a/c! On this beater. The a/c works on my 87 f150, but it's a nice truck. My 93 f350 7.3 is a lot simpler, but slower! I will try your weld-a-nut trick next time I need it. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. GOD BLESS GOD SPEED GOD WINS.
Wes thank you so much. I totally remember why i don’t repair my own vehicles, even to oil change. And you make all of it seam so easy. Just not enjoyable. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Capacitive leakage without power. Some electronic component is leaking when the power is off, soggy capacitor some place that is resisting charging up? As you say maybe the driver is tired and needs replacing.. Just a thought..
@@TheFool2cool Well shitty capacitors in circuits will do all sorts of weird assed stuff, some just won't work, while others will half work or work poorly. Not knowing the electronics configuration of a 7.3 just leaves one guessing, that's what I did guess. I have seen capacitors do amazing stuff right up to blowing up out of the blue. So a long term progressive failure is possible. Wes knows the mechanics, I was offering support to his theory that it could be an electronics failure. A weak capacitor can take longer to charge, and thus extend cranking time. When power is maintained to a circuit the capacitor is fully charged or at the least, operating within is service window, until it's allowed to completely discharge. Just like a charged battery will maintain a "surface or float charge" until it's pushed into service and the surface charge is used then the true storage voltage is observable..
So how is the ultra-high-impedance capacitor meant to be helping the circuit after it's finally charged? The solenoid driver was clearly working just fine in both captures.
It's unfortunate that truck is so rusted! I like the looks of those old Fords! Gotta grab one from a sunny hot climate! ( It'll need a new dash for sure!)
@@brandonheckathorn3270 Thanks for the info. I've always wondered where the best area for rust free vehicles is. I'm from N.Y. so rust is a major issue!
My grandpa gave me an 01 Silverado. Everything original. Hoses and all. No dry rot or hardly any rust. Pulled trailers boats and everything with that thing. Love living at the n.c/s.c. Border. Might replace shocks. Little bouncy on pot holes and stuff. Did have to replace a crankshaft censor recently. Did so many things before that fix.
EBPV even actuated! I miss my 94 PS but it was high mileage and let me down quite a bit loved the truck and driving it though. Ended up getting an 07 5.9 and so far it's been great even with 220k plus on it. Got an old F-superduty with an idi to get my old truck fix and I really like the simplicity of the mechanical motor plus it has a dump bed so it's way more useful for my business. Really enjoy your videos
That truck when new was absolutely gorgeous. The only thing needed is a set of factory clearance lights. Back in 96/97 I was contemplating purchasing a new F350 4x4 Crewcab gasser. Couldn't bring myself to do it as the monthly payment was the size of a mortgage payment. I actually regret not buying that truck. Luckily I still own my 90 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 that I ordered back in 89. It breaks my heart to see how much red cancer that OBS in the video has. 👍🇺🇸
30:00 I love nicop line, it's so easy to bend and really easy to flare. My line bending tools pretty much just gather dust in my room drawer as I only use them to make really tight or complicated bends
There's a 1991 F250 with a outstanding body and paint for it's age. I got it to fire after a new switch and fuel filter and bled the lines out. It's an ether baby with one dead cylinder that possibly is a stuck open injector. If so,maybe the knocking that sounds like Satan's Forge is coming from hydraulic piston lock. Or maybe a bent rod. If I could find a engine or perhaps deactivate one cylinder and it's fueling,would the thing run? One thousand will buy it. It's an IDI 7.3 engine and no turbo
You and Andrew Camarata welding the nuts on rusted bolts. Incredible patience. Have you seen his fixing the bulldozer video where he must weld on five or six nuts on the same bolt? I’m so impressed with your work Wes. I know nothing about what you are doing (retired teacher here), but I love to watch and feel like I’m learning something. I wish I had a “learning vehicle“ in the yard that I could wrench on, and learn while I go. I’d love to contribute to a Patreon for you
Every time you weld to the bolt it heat cycles it which helps loosen it tremendously, also 5 or 6 welds is was faster than drilling and tapping which has a decent chance of becoming drilling, tapping, and helicoiling.
I bought a 1996 F-250 with the 5.8 gas, the front end was crunched in a wreck yet I still paid $2000 grand for it. Must have been a southern truck as the rust was minimal. Most bolts weren't rusted, replaced the front clip, straightened out what I could with my wrecker and a tree long story short I wouldn't trade the truck for any others. I plow snow in northern MN for the last 10 years and still the trucks strong! Even the rust isn't bad at all. Last year I charged the A/C and I'll be damned it worked! Wish it had the 1 ton front solid axle but hey. The tranny still works great but I will add a tranny shift restorer to hopefully keep it that way. Wally world sells the conditioner for $15. Bucks and I swear by it. Any plow truck should use that stuff, white quart bottle.. $15.44 last time I checked. Hard to beat these old OBS trucks. I now own 5.. 😊
When you were talking about all the front running gear problems it reminded me of the only 4wd I've ever owned. 1990 Z71 auto w/350. I paid 1500$ for it. Had to replace both sets of door hinges, got tired of having to lift the doors to shut them, headliner held up with staples, infamous paint peel on every body panel. Sold it for 500$ to "pull a part" because the front running gear repair costs were more than twice what I paid for it. BTW, I said that infamous word for you each time the weld broke on the bleeder valve. Thanks
With a vehicle like that he would be back and forth to the parts shop. The time it took to do that would be greater than welding a nut and doing it that way.
I know I'm three months late but that port where you pulled the oil out of the HEUI galleries, it doesn't get changed when you do an oil change. You most likely know that.. Changing the high pressure oil by sucking that oil out and putting fresh oil three to four times and running it in between helps a whole lot. Bill Hewitt from Powerstroke Specialties has a video up on that matter.
Information and entertainment as always, on many levels. I always expect these trucks to just break into pieces when you put them on the lift. I have a mental image that amuses me. They are obviously tougher than they look. :-)
34:16 Danger Danger Will Robinson!!! I anint talking about the ladder LOL Always a pleasure Wes. I have learned tons form watching your channel You are a wizard with the scan tools
I have a 94 Ford 4x4 7.3 turbo, pre power stroke. If you leave the key on, you are activating the glow plugs, and if you turn your key off and on several times, on a cool morning, it will start quicker. We had to start the fleet of Ford 7.3 liter power strokes, for TriMet Lift, activating the glow plugs, before they would start.
Looks like the rodent squatters were using the blower fan as an exercise wheel. (Had a bit of a thunderstorm here in Edinburgh this afternoon- exciting!)
Wes, I think a diesel Ford of that era started like this: turn the key to the on position. Glow plug light turns on. Wait until glow plug light goes out, then crank over engine. You can't immediately crank engine like a modern diesel. Just my guess.
My Dad had a battery carrier made with two elongated washers and a movable half moon latch and piece of v belt for a handle I am guessing it was made in the 1940's and it worked great on most of the batteries of the day but not the six volt long batteries in some of the GM cars and the dumb side post batteries.
I believe you could. I have a 99 f350 7.3L that sat at my cousins shop for a couple years. replaced the brake calipers all that and the rockers and cab corners a year and a half ago and it's still running great. After watching this video mine was in much better condition.
I've got a 1995 one-ton dually, standard cab, 7.3 power stroke, 5 speed, 4x4, flatbed. It's a good truck for my cattle operation. Gets regular maintenance, and that's cheaper than buying a new one for 80K. Fortunately, I live in ND, where road-causing rust is less of a problem.
So, it's the 4th. of July, and we have a "PUP" special!!! We have fireworks and mice and nests...Oh my! Always a fun time watching Wes versus the mice, with PUP as mascot. Thnx again for another exciting episode, and a happy 4th. to all!!!
Wes. The solution to your slow/fast start might just be rooted in pump laws. It is something I use every day in the HVAC trade. If you increase the RPM of your pump by 10%, the oil flow trough the pump goes up by 10% but the pressure developed by the pump goes up to the square of the % of change. In this example 21% more pressure supplied by the pump. That means if the pressure sensor is marginal at Key off start rpm, the key on rpm being roughly 10% higher and the pressure 21% higher puts the pressure sensor in the Ok range and you get a short start instead of a longer one. Cheers it is physics and no matter the pump type or fluid it moves the laws remain the same. In short either the oil pressure sensor signal is off due to age or the computer is misinterpreting the 0-10 v signal.
Heh, mine is 44 years old, but nowhere near as bad as that. Three-on-the-tree life, baby!!! Man, just look at what's not left of that driver side front fender! Those steps are mint though. They're fixing the AC?? In that thing??? Stuck fill plug? Easy, put a fill plug in the new cover! Drill a hole, weld on a thread-bung... Line wrench is good for cracking it loose enough to where you can use a regular wrench. Line wrench is good for torqueing it back down too. Air hammer FTW! Standing on the top of a ladder? In flip-flops?? That's living dangerously... Nasty mouse nest on the shop flo- OMG, WATCH OUT FOR THAT WIDOW-MAKER SPLIT-RING WHEEL!!! That was my exact thought on the key-on phenomenon: It must be leaking down somewhere when powered off. Or perhaps something is not happening during starter-cranking - i.e. a valve opening or closing, or even a pump motor turning... Are there electronically-controlled valves in the injection pump?
You do amazing work! you recover stuff that most mechanics would say - Yeah! NO!! Excellent work on getting the brake bleeder out and also all those brake connections. The only thing i would have tried is to put a jumper maybe from another 12 volt source with it's negative tied to ground and it's positive going to the ECM/PCM 12 volt supply - just to see if you were really getting enough voltage to it while cranking! Wonderful sense of Humor as well!!! Liked! Subbed !!
I just bought a 1990 f250 idi. Body is solid as a rock no rust on it at all it came from Washington state. Some how it made it to Pennsylvania runs good needs minor things nice truck for 1200 bucks
Wes, “Undiscovered species”, hahaha! So glad your tapping around and highly technical special welding technique worked for you on those brakes! Why did Mrs Wes need to hide the words on her shirt? Always good to see the whole family! The expertly skilled brake bleeding assistant Mrs, Master Kiddo and his toilet frog release back to the wild (that was funny) also the famous mouse hunting and ride along Pup!!
Could the delayed start simply be a warn fuel pump. It would stay primed when the truck is in the key on position, but bleeds back to the tank when the key is off because the pump is no longer engaged electronically by the computer.
I know my 95 f350 is a mechanical fuel pump, i believe its the same through to 97 but i could be wrong. Most obs diesels have a single fuel pump in the valley behind the fuel bowl
Check transmission range senor for extended crank. I had a tow truck that always extended cranked. I was fixing a unrelated issue and noticed the range sensor was never in park position and back up lights didnt work. Fixed a short to back up lights and replaced switch. When switch was replaced it now showed it in park on the scanner. This automatically cured my extended crank issue too.
The thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump stays on keeping pressure while the key is on. Once had a similar problem on caterpillar 3406e. Found that it lost prime with key off because the primary and secondary fuel filters were accidentally swapped into wrong positions.
A leaky capacitor in the PCM is the answer to the question: "Is there something that leaks down with the switch off?" (at 43:10)
At 37:40 the voltage from the PCM starts at 10.3 and goes to 10.1V.
At 39:30 with the key on for half an hour, starts at 12.1 and goes to 10.8V.
The lower voltage provides less energy, a little lower voltage and it would never make any pressure.
Thank you for your videos !
Maybe but I would change glow plugs first as they probably have high resistance.
I live in the south, and I always get kinda sad seeing these trucks that work up in the salt belts just get absolutely devoured by rust.. Makes me endlessly appreciate my non-rusted vehicles down here even more..
I notice all the bad parts of the paint work when there’s no rust
Yeah I live in Alabama and all are cars have very little rust . Even are 1990 ford L7000 dump truck has very little rust
count your blessings bud
Yeah man I couldn't imagine buying a brand new truck and watch it rust away, my truck is 10 years old and little to know rust at all.
Imagine having a gmc from 03 with dodge rust. Thing is killing me
That bleeder bolt assembly needs to be displayed on the wall. That thing is a work of art!
sucker was one stubborn sob! Mount that sucker to the wall like a hunting trophy!
Andrew Camarata on his channel, sells his stubborn scrap junk on eBay and fans buy the stuff up! @watchweswork, you need to sell that on eBay and I'll make a necklace out of it, like Taryl from Taryl Fixes All does, with a spark plug.
I thought the same thing when that sucker un threaded finally. I have a proud collection of broken and seized nuts and bolts displayed on my work bench lol it’s like rusty art!
Ebay ....$$$
I don't know if you figured out the long crank issue, but I had the same problem on two 7.3. Both were 95, both had excess of 250,000. Neither had ever had injector O rings replaced. Finally checked the secondary filter on the drivers side of the fuel filter on top of the engine. I'm sure you've seen this, but opened it up and cleaned it. They were both full of O ring particles and nasty stuff. The way it was explained to me, the return fuel or unused fuel from the injectors is sent back to the filter housing through this filter. The long start issue both times started slowly, over moths and months. When I finally had to figure it out I was stranded in an airport parking lot and it took at least 20 minutes to get it to start. This was also about 2 months or so after I ran it out of fuel while running down the interstate. The second time was shortly after buying the other truck. Both times the filter was the problem. Cleaned it both times and had no other starting issues and put A LOT of miles on both. Just my 2 cents. Great videos buddy.
Just to add: Someone else added that it might be a capacitor in the PCM.
I have watched many of your old videos over the last couple weeks. After watching them I have learned one thing. I'm not the only on that works on old Equipment. The 7.3 PowerStroke holds a special place in my heart. My daily driver is a 99 F250 7.3 with 247K on the clock and I love it!!! I always watch about any video about them. It has to be one of the trucks Ford ever built. THANK YOU for your videos and look forward to watching many more.
That 7.3 is just breaking in with 211 thousand miles. Always love these bring back to life videos.
My 1996 f350 crew cab long bed 4x4 dually has 332,000. 7.3 with the e4od.
My late 1999 f250 extended cab long bed 2wd has 354,000, 7.3 with the 4r100.
Both are excellent trucks
I've never been a Ford guy, but that inspection hole at 3:10 is genius, you don't even have to bend over to look underneath the truck to see how rusted it is. Brilliant!
the car that HAD everything LOL
"Looks like Scotty Killmer has already had a go at it". Wes, you got some choice lines..lol
Rev up your engine!
@@drcornelius8275 YOUR WRONG HE WAS NOT WAVING HIS ARMS LIKE A BLOW UP
This is a genuine backbone of America channel.
There's nothing quite like the sound of a 7.3 Powerstroke. My dad had a '96 F-250 with the extended cab and the roof lights on top. Man that was a solid truck.
My father had a 2000 model extended, with roof lights as well. Never broke down for 275k miles. I grew up in that thing. We have a 2013 now.
I really appreciate Ford putting the starter solenoid on the fender close to the battery for remote start testing 😉👍🏻
I really appreciate ur spelling plumber plummer
I bought my Dads 78 f150 in 88 when I turned 18! Owning that 300 inline 6 3speed overdrive tought me everything I've ever needed to know about Fixing my ride on the side of the road!!! From when my buddy and me coming back from dirt biking in Pinckney No. Locked up the gear box on I94 and Mt Elliot in ghetto Detroit. Good thing Pops was stationed at E23-S3 dfd! It made its way to the back yard in Roseville my neighbor Joe found a boneyard 3speed put that puppy in and a sparko shift kit from Kmart!! Then the shift lever fell out I welded one with bolts long enough to work!!! Then the starter bendix locked up bought one at Warren Auto rebuilt that! Then the gas tank rusted through we used a self tapper bolt and a break strap sealed up with rtv! Ext....
Try this on a 7.3 econoline. Everything is convenient to work on if you got a buddy with 6 foot long arms and a proclivity for contortionism.
Dance Around The World Maybe he eats lots of plums?
Old Mopars are similar.
I am extremely impressed at how you got the snapped brake bleeder out. I’ve taken out broken exhaust manifold studs by welding a nut on them, but I never welded a bolt to a snapped and frozen brake wheel cylinder bleeder and then coaxed it out with the air hammer. Excellent job!!
I’m extremely impressed by how well he took that zap ⚡️ lol 😂
"Coaxed it out" and " with the air hammer". Not two phrases that I anticipated seeing in the same sentence. 😆
Had a similar problem on my '95 (long crank, sometimes forever crank), turned out the IDM relay was intermittent. Contacts in the fuse box had loosened up somehow (heat?) - bent them back in with a pick so that the relay plugged in solidly, problem went away. Maybe with the key on the relay stays energized, letting it crank normally.
Whenever I weld a nut to a broken bolt or in this case a bleeder I like to cool it with pb blaster rather than water. When the bolt cools it contracts and pull the penetrant down into the threads. Makes a huge difference.
I was actually thinking let it cool in the ambient air vs quenching to keep the weld metal from becoming brittle, but that pb idea sounds even better.
et it cool naturally. you are screwing yourself.
I had the SAME EXACT PROBLEM on my 2001 Powersmoke! My truck died at a red light and had to wait 2hours and 30minutes to be towed 1 mile back to my house. Next day plugged in Forscan and started diagnosing. Saw that the ICP was reading only 180psi. Took a look at the pigtail SAME like your video corroded wires exposed and it was shorting. My IPR had the SAME problem the gasket melted on the inside. Went to Ford spent 300$ on a new IPR and 10$ on the pigtail. Fired right up and no issues ever since! I believe if I swapped out the pigtail and cleaned the old IPR with electrical cleaner it would’ve worked and it would’ve saved me 300$!
This is just like watching Pakistan Truckers, but with rust, narration, and toe protection.
How do you mean? This is nothing like Pakistani truckers.
@@dh-_1011 Wrenching on tired iron.
I'm always amazed at how overbuilt and overloaded those trucks are.
Those guys are amazing really, they can make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Some of the chassis joining techniques they use is less than ideal, but hey.
@@dh-_1011 Well, ok, there are a few differences. On PT I've never seen a "lovely Mrs. PT", nor have I seen anything like Wes's son, dog, washing machine, corn field, scan tool, and signal generator, or a mystery woman driving across the country in her live-in SUV. Everything else is pretty similar.
Happy Fourth of July 🇺🇸
EVERYONE!
A recent post on a diesel forum: the OP said that the red wire on the GPR was loose, when tightened long crank went away.
Please help me out what does OP stand for
@@thomaswright6250 Sorry, Original Poster
@Watch Wes Work
i am studying to become a mechanical engineer and i love watching wes do complicated problem solving on these trucks. It’s like you’re there with him going “what would be causing the engine not to turn over?” Not to mention the humor and professionalism he projects
Lol, we had about the same situation. Had a 96 7.3 that my dad bought at a salvage action. It used to be a plow truck in Michigan. Dad had fixed it up and it was ready for farm use, the only thing was the brakes didn't work and it wasn't licensed. Dad didn't have time to fix the rest, so It sat outside for about 16 years before we got it running this past spring. Runs great now!
I had a 7.3 in an '01 Excursion. Sweetest sounding engine I've ever had! Happy memories!
Those things were MASSIVE, could fit a whole damn soccer team in them
Excursion 7.3 = Holy grail
@@waexplorer Doug DeMuro reviewed the V10 version of that
putting an AC Delco battery in Ford is ok, but your headliner will start to droop GM style.
And your ignition will mysteriously fail while driving
It doubles the value.
And the wipers will turn on randomly
@@stevenreynolds2327 nah, just combines the chevy shake and the ford death wobble into one earthquake machine
Words cannot describe the relief and joy I felt when you got that brake bleeder out. Well done.
I daily drive a 97.
Played the IPR rebuild and corresponding solenoid replacement game, more times than I care to admit.
Somewhat satisfying to see someone else do it lol.
Fighting with VSS codes now.
Road goes on forever and the party never ends.
Peg has some great instructional videos on 7.3’s also, If you haven’t already seen lol.
Love that song and Robert Earl Keen :)
Every time I see one of these vehicles your work on like this, I am so thankful we have yearly inspections in NH.
I would look into the internal power supply of the ecm. Maybe some caps gone. Power supply unstable when they are fully drained which not happens when the ignition is immediately turned on again.
Thats what i was thinking...sounds like a bad cap somewhere....cant be the fuel pump as its not on is it?
@@BlackAck90 Shouldn't be the fuel pump but the caps seems likely. But then it should work the same if you just leave the key on for a bit
This 👉
Those electrolytic capacitors are almost 25 years old in the ECM. Cheap to resolder in some new ones. Could have high ESR values as well.
That's what I was thinking. "What drains when the key is off?"....capacitors do.
Oh, and a hearty thank you for the time and effort to get us these videos, it really is appreciated.
I do enjoy watching you wrench on junk. Not only does the rust make me feel better about _my_ junk, your troubleshooting is inspiring. Thanks.
Glad my truck and I are in texas....I have a 97 CCLB 4x4 that doesn't have a spec of rust on it. Its my daily driver, doesn't leak a drop and gets 18+mpg on 37"s. Then again I'm just getting it broke in at 267K miles. Best things I ever did was trash that filter housing and pump and convert to a frame mounted pump and filter, way cleaner look and way more room to work.
Unnecessary to tell me to hold my breath. I always wear a dust mask and safety glasses whenever I watch, but thanks for caring Wes.
I like the sound of those Diesels.
What new trucks are going for, it's well worth the time, effort and treasure to bring one these back to life. Plus you won't have to use spend money on DEF .
Replaced fuel return lines on my 7.3 and made a huge difference on start time.
I bought a brand new 1995 F350 regular cab single rear wheel 4x4 truck (like in this video) but my truck had a 460 gas engine. That truck was awesome.... of course it was brand new. It sure did love to drink gas though. Thankfully in the mid 90's gas was only $1.10 - $1.30 per gallon. It had 4.10 gears, auto transmission with NO overdrive. I loved that truck. It was still rust free when I traded it in.... I have always wondered what happened to that truck after I got rid of it. It's probably rustier than the truck in this video.... if it even still exists today. Lol
Wes, love your diagnosis and description of various well used equipment. Being a retired Engr equipment mechanic who worked in south and in Middle east
Lots of desert and not in tune with salt and rust. Your videos introduced me to the only rusted out oil pans and diff covers Ever. I'd heard of them but only in coffee conversation. Keep up the good content and conscientious way you take care of customers.
The 'Vague-shifter' is likely the two torx bolts that hold the bell-crank to the shift rail on the bottom of the column. I've seen several of those back out to cause that issue...
If this turns out to be my issue, I might have to buy you dinner.
I 2nd this. Tightened probably a half dozen of these with blue lock-tite.
Had this happen to me in a Ranger. Seems to be an issue on the F series also
@@NotSureJoeBauers Ford liked this column design so much, that they used in most of their vehicles from the time period - just about anything from a Taurus or bigger... It's likely that your Ranger used the same column, and therefore would be susceptible to the same issue (pattern failure).
Yes, a common problem. I also put on lock-tite, easy fix.Also rust jacking of the shaft going thru the neutral switch where it mounts on the transmission swells and binds the switch causing hard, stiff shifting of the lever. Found both problems on the same truck.
Check if this year vehicle has a mechanical fuel pressure check valve in the tank that has failed. If so add an in-line fuel check valve.
Appreciate the diagnosis...that was really my Grandaddy's passion. He was a diesel generator mechanic for Carter Machinery, but he could fix pretty much anything with the patience to learn about it and then go one step at a time.
I seldom sign in but this guy is so good I even subscribed! No "now I'm going to take the wheel off" then watch the dude take the wheel off. No fluff, excellent description of his work. Great show! The best yet. The punch lines are great! Thnks man and keep em coming!
I've got a 2003 7.3 2-wd with a 114,000 miles . An Arkansas No rust truck but it does have a few whisky dents . I don't use it much but being the original owner it's a hell a trailer pulling truck . Man it's Made a Ford diesel truck person out of me . Hard to beat a POERSTROKE . GREAT VIDEO sir
“How does anybody live without a welder and an air hammer” 😂😂😂😂 YES!
Don't forget the oxy torch!
@@JustAnotherGuyInTheComments the ole fire wrench
Wes, I really enjoy your videos, that generation Ford trucks, I love that style and those 7.3 Power strokes!
I find it amazing how small animals just go exploring and find the most incredible and secure places to call home inside the things we own.
Man my hats off to you mechanics up north. It’s crazy what you guys have to work on. When I run into a rusty bolt we’re I’m from I usually don’t know what to do. All the bolts you guys deal with are rusted worse than any bolt I see.
Patience is a virtue!!!!! Boy do you have a bundle of patience Wes !!!!!!!!!
Could honestly watch 1000 of these in a row. Just put the camera on whenever you work on something Wes, you're brilliant!
Your brake line bleeding assistant (Masters Degree), just keeps ascending to new heights!!
Good one!
That “Tower of Power” welded onto that bleeder was a work of art. And I’m feeling ya on the rodent invasion. The International I just bought had a massive nest that was inside the squirrel cage and all over the heater core. Took some next-level cleaning to stanch the stench, you might say. Friggin’ vermin.
People have no idea about the extra time mechanics need just dealing with rust. Good job lad. New subscriber.
It’s crazy that vehicles rust away so quickly up north. I’ve lived in Maryland, Iowa, and now I live in Georgia. I can say from experience that these old Fords bring big numbers around me. You are an amazing mechanic Sir. Thank you for the awesome videos!
Like Vehcor would say: "In the pile." 😁
Yea, that entire truck.
My sentiment as well!🤦♂️
I actually like this truck... minus the rust of course!
Now that is something I wouldn't expect from a guy who pieces together pickup trucks that I couldn't even afford the leather treatment on the seats.
ROTFLMAO at the Scotty Kilmer comment.
Hahah I laughed to hard myself
I've had a couple diffs with rotten covers and stuck fill plugs. I drilled a hole in the new cover at the same height as the fill plug and welded in a threaded bung to fill the axle.
Depends on what you're working on. If it was a customer rig I'd run it by them before I did it or not.
It worked great on my rusty old farm trucks.
Great Job Wes, I respect your tenacity, you are inspirational, and your helper is an angel, helpful, handy, and happy. Wonderful for you guys!! Appreciate your videos.
It felt so good to see you get the bleeder screw out. I thought only I struggled with rusty things like that. Misery loves company!
Yeah, I am going to grab the battery with my hands since I cannot afford all your fancy tools! Probably my favorite F-series body style! I even like the colors(minus that common IL rust color, of course). Too hot??? I will be referring you to your own video come January! lol
It's always awesome when I see 2 of my favorite channels that like each other
Fair enough!
Ya, I like the shark noses as well, but I prefer the idi motors. They're so simple(doesn't run? must not be getting fuel!). I lost partial hearing in that spectrum, so the clatter doesn't bother me anymore. Wife is jealous , though(about the hearing)...
hoosier rust exactly the same color. must use the same road salt
No I'm not going too imagine that and I did NOT need a description of it
Either bubba.... dang glad I don't have to get in that truck and smell that shit.....
26:54 hard to tell from the angle but it looks like it's got a posi traction in that truck I love them old 7.3 trucks I Wish International still made that motor for Ford
That rust is one of the reasons I don't miss living in Illinois anymore, even Ziebart didn't help!
Ziebart makes it worse holding water against the frame
And where do you live that doesn't have rust? Inquiring minds want to know....
@@ChristisKing7749 Common problem with Ziebart. It was *supposed* to adhere so tightly to that moisture couldn't get in, but in most cases it had some voids that allowed moisture to build up without being seen until the damage was catastrophic. An exception was my ex-girlfriend's first car, an infamous machine called an Austin Allegro. It was ancient when she bought it, but in amazing condition thanks to one of the few applications of Ziebart that did its job properly.
Ziebart a blast from the past, biggest problem was it all boiled down to the guy applying and the prep work…
Ziebart makes things rust faster. Traps moisture. Fluid film or Krown.
I can't believe you fixed the a/c! On this beater. The a/c works on my 87 f150, but it's a nice truck. My 93 f350 7.3 is a lot simpler, but slower! I will try your weld-a-nut trick next time I need it. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. GOD BLESS GOD SPEED GOD WINS.
Wes thank you so much. I totally remember why i don’t repair my own vehicles, even to oil change. And you make all of it seam so easy. Just not enjoyable. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Capacitive leakage without power. Some electronic component is leaking when the power is off, soggy capacitor some place that is resisting charging up? As you say maybe the driver is tired and needs replacing.. Just a thought..
Its like somebody read an electronics text book from a distance whilst driving by. All the words mean something but together not so much.
@@TheFool2cool Well shitty capacitors in circuits will do all sorts of weird assed stuff, some just won't work, while others will half work or work poorly. Not knowing the electronics configuration of a 7.3 just leaves one guessing, that's what I did guess. I have seen capacitors do amazing stuff right up to blowing up out of the blue. So a long term progressive failure is possible. Wes knows the mechanics, I was offering support to his theory that it could be an electronics failure. A weak capacitor can take longer to charge, and thus extend cranking time. When power is maintained to a circuit the capacitor is fully charged or at the least, operating within is service window, until it's allowed to completely discharge. Just like a charged battery will maintain a "surface or float charge" until it's pushed into service and the surface charge is used then the true storage voltage is observable..
So how is the ultra-high-impedance capacitor meant to be helping the circuit after it's finally charged?
The solenoid driver was clearly working just fine in both captures.
Same problem with a 96 at 263K, IDM replaced as well...on to tank filter ect
It's unfortunate that truck is so rusted!
I like the looks of those old Fords!
Gotta grab one from a sunny hot climate!
( It'll need a new dash for sure!)
Ain't nothing a little body work won't fix and yes it's some work but it's definitely worth it(at least in my opinion)
Theyre rust free all over here in NV. Dashes survive pretty well. Cloth, rubber, and fiber materials do not haha.
@@brandonheckathorn3270
Thanks for the info.
I've always wondered where the best area for rust free vehicles is.
I'm from N.Y. so rust is a major issue!
Love your channel man! I have a 99’ 7.3 powerstroke. So I love the 7.3 content!!!
My grandpa gave me an 01 Silverado. Everything original. Hoses and all. No dry rot or hardly any rust. Pulled trailers boats and everything with that thing. Love living at the n.c/s.c. Border. Might replace shocks. Little bouncy on pot holes and stuff. Did have to replace a crankshaft censor recently. Did so many things before that fix.
EBPV even actuated! I miss my 94 PS but it was high mileage and let me down quite a bit loved the truck and driving it though. Ended up getting an 07 5.9 and so far it's been great even with 220k plus on it. Got an old F-superduty with an idi to get my old truck fix and I really like the simplicity of the mechanical motor plus it has a dump bed so it's way more useful for my business. Really enjoy your videos
The stance on these 4x4 regular cab Ford F350 trucks is near perfect and this is coming from a certified Chevy truck man.
I’m a dodge guy but that old body style is a beauty. It’s a shame they neglected it.
That truck when new was absolutely gorgeous. The only thing needed is a set of factory clearance lights. Back in 96/97 I was contemplating purchasing a new F350 4x4 Crewcab gasser. Couldn't bring myself to do it as the monthly payment was the size of a mortgage payment. I actually regret not buying that truck. Luckily I still own my 90 F250 XLT Lariat 4x4 that I ordered back in 89. It breaks my heart to see how much red cancer that OBS in the video has. 👍🇺🇸
30:00 I love nicop line, it's so easy to bend and really easy to flare. My line bending tools pretty much just gather dust in my room drawer as I only use them to make really tight or complicated bends
There's a 1991 F250 with a outstanding body and paint for it's age. I got it to fire after a new switch and fuel filter and bled the lines out.
It's an ether baby with one dead cylinder that possibly is a stuck open injector. If so,maybe the knocking that sounds like Satan's Forge is coming from hydraulic piston lock. Or maybe a bent rod.
If I could find a engine or perhaps deactivate one cylinder and it's fueling,would the thing run? One thousand will buy it. It's an IDI 7.3 engine and no turbo
You and Andrew Camarata welding the nuts on rusted bolts. Incredible patience. Have you seen his fixing the bulldozer video where he must weld on five or six nuts on the same bolt? I’m so impressed with your work Wes. I know nothing about what you are doing (retired teacher here), but I love to watch and feel like I’m learning something. I wish I had a “learning vehicle“ in the yard that I could wrench on, and learn while I go. I’d love to contribute to a Patreon for you
You look like Scotty Kilmers Son
Every time you weld to the bolt it heat cycles it which helps loosen it tremendously, also 5 or 6 welds is was faster than drilling and tapping which has a decent chance of becoming drilling, tapping, and helicoiling.
Haha
@@TheHomePros6221 n
I bought a 1996 F-250 with the 5.8 gas, the front end was crunched in a wreck yet I still paid $2000 grand for it. Must have been a southern truck as the rust was minimal. Most bolts weren't rusted, replaced the front clip, straightened out what I could with my wrecker and a tree long story short I wouldn't trade the truck for any others. I plow snow in northern MN for the last 10 years and still the trucks strong! Even the rust isn't bad at all. Last year I charged the A/C and I'll be damned it worked! Wish it had the 1 ton front solid axle but hey. The tranny still works great but I will add a tranny shift restorer to hopefully keep it that way. Wally world sells the conditioner for $15. Bucks and I swear by it. Any plow truck should use that stuff, white quart bottle.. $15.44 last time I checked. Hard to beat these old OBS trucks. I now own 5.. 😊
When you were talking about all the front running gear problems it reminded me of the only 4wd I've ever owned.
1990 Z71 auto w/350. I paid 1500$ for it. Had to replace both sets of door hinges, got tired of having to lift the doors to shut them, headliner held up with staples, infamous paint peel on every body panel.
Sold it for 500$ to "pull a part" because the front running gear repair costs were more than twice what I paid for it.
BTW, I said that infamous word for you each time the weld broke on the bleeder valve.
Thanks
Wes, you are so lucky to have a great wife who will help so cheerfully. Great channel, please keep up with the videos.
When the trans tries to lock up in reverse, it usuallymeans its sucking air. About five quarts low?
You have a lot of patience, that broke bleeder would of drove me to just buy a new wheel cylinder. Good job.
I was saying the same thing to myself, thar would drive me into the looney home.
With a vehicle like that he would be back and forth to the parts shop. The time it took to do that would be greater than welding a nut and doing it that way.
I know I'm three months late but that port where you pulled the oil out of the HEUI galleries, it doesn't get changed when you do an oil change. You most likely know that.. Changing the high pressure oil by sucking that oil out and putting fresh oil three to four times and running it in between helps a whole lot. Bill Hewitt from Powerstroke Specialties has a video up on that matter.
A great attitude like you have mixed with a little humor will get you far Wes. Good job !
Get it back in and fix the transmission and rebuild the front end. Check the ABS light out Check all the wiring and make a video of it all!!
Not even Wes would tackle that front end. The channel is not called "Watch Wes Overwork".
Information and entertainment as always, on many levels. I always expect these trucks to just break into pieces when you put them on the lift. I have a mental image that amuses me. They are obviously tougher than they look. :-)
Best truck ford ever made, great motor and body style
34:16 Danger Danger Will Robinson!!! I anint talking about the ladder LOL Always a pleasure Wes. I have learned tons form watching your channel You are a wizard with the scan tools
I have a 94 Ford 4x4 7.3 turbo, pre power stroke. If you leave the key on, you are activating the glow plugs, and if you turn your key off and on several times, on a cool morning, it will start quicker. We had to start the fleet of Ford 7.3 liter power strokes, for TriMet Lift, activating the glow plugs, before they would start.
Looks like the rodent squatters were using the blower fan as an exercise wheel. (Had a bit of a thunderstorm here in Edinburgh this afternoon- exciting!)
Snap, heavy rain down here in Newcastle as well "big water drops" as my wife said
Wes, I think a diesel Ford of that era started like this: turn the key to the on position. Glow plug light turns on. Wait until glow plug light goes out, then crank over engine. You can't immediately crank engine like a modern diesel. Just my guess.
That doesn't explain the lack of pressure building.
Wes is fully aware of the starting procedure.
Should still be hot enough after a few minutes to star pretty much straight away.
4:53 Now THAT is a trick tool! Get me some of that for changing the battery on my tractor!
My Dad had a battery carrier made with two elongated washers and a movable half moon latch and piece of v belt for a handle I am guessing it was made in the 1940's and it worked great on most of the batteries of the day but not the six volt long batteries in some of the GM cars and the dumb side post batteries.
Lisle makes a nice battery carrier actually. Good quality and right around $15 from Amazon.
Derek/vice grip garage needs one of those. Universal go-handle.
@@thereve Yeah he does!
I believe you could. I have a 99 f350 7.3L that sat at my cousins shop for a couple years. replaced the brake calipers all that and the rockers and cab corners a year and a half ago and it's still running great.
After watching this video mine was in much better condition.
I've got a 1995 one-ton dually, standard cab, 7.3 power stroke, 5 speed, 4x4, flatbed. It's a good truck for my cattle operation. Gets regular maintenance, and that's cheaper than buying a new one for 80K. Fortunately, I live in ND, where road-causing rust is less of a problem.
Wes, I thought you were gonna throw your truck's ECM just to test if this one was bad. Like this kind of videos!
So, it's the 4th. of July, and we have a "PUP" special!!!
We have fireworks and mice and nests...Oh my!
Always a fun time watching Wes versus the mice, with PUP as mascot.
Thnx again for another exciting episode, and a happy 4th. to all!!!
From super high tech pico scoping to mice removal!!! Love it!!! Thank you for a great channel!!!! :)
Wes. The solution to your slow/fast start might just be rooted in pump laws. It is something I use every day in the HVAC trade.
If you increase the RPM of your pump by 10%, the oil flow trough the pump goes up by 10% but the pressure developed by the pump goes up to the square of the % of change. In this example 21% more pressure supplied by the pump.
That means if the pressure sensor is marginal at Key off start rpm, the key on rpm being roughly 10% higher and the pressure 21% higher puts the pressure sensor in the Ok range and you get a short start instead of a longer one.
Cheers it is physics and no matter the pump type or fluid it moves the laws remain the same. In short either the oil pressure sensor signal is off due to age or the computer is misinterpreting the 0-10 v signal.
Heh, mine is 44 years old, but nowhere near as bad as that. Three-on-the-tree life, baby!!!
Man, just look at what's not left of that driver side front fender! Those steps are mint though.
They're fixing the AC?? In that thing???
Stuck fill plug? Easy, put a fill plug in the new cover! Drill a hole, weld on a thread-bung...
Line wrench is good for cracking it loose enough to where you can use a regular wrench. Line wrench is good for torqueing it back down too.
Air hammer FTW!
Standing on the top of a ladder? In flip-flops?? That's living dangerously...
Nasty mouse nest on the shop flo- OMG, WATCH OUT FOR THAT WIDOW-MAKER SPLIT-RING WHEEL!!!
That was my exact thought on the key-on phenomenon: It must be leaking down somewhere when powered off. Or perhaps something is not happening during starter-cranking - i.e. a valve opening or closing, or even a pump motor turning... Are there electronically-controlled valves in the injection pump?
Would love to have that truck. Always wanted a 7.3
Ahhh i see you finally upgraded the dewalt impact... worlds of difference
Haha
It's much better, but still a dog compared to my pneumatic.
@@WatchWesWork it’s because your using that itty bitty 12v when you need the 20v
Try using the brushless 20v like I use on my channel I love it
Diesel I just noticed you said the same thing lol
You do amazing work! you recover stuff that most mechanics would say - Yeah! NO!! Excellent work on getting the brake bleeder out and also all those brake connections. The only thing i would have tried is to put a jumper maybe from another 12 volt source with it's negative tied to ground and it's positive going to the ECM/PCM 12 volt supply - just to see if you were really getting enough voltage to it while cranking! Wonderful sense of Humor as well!!! Liked! Subbed !!
Watching you diagnose these farm trucks is therapeutic.
I just bought a 1990 f250 idi. Body is solid as a rock no rust on it at all it came from Washington state. Some how it made it to Pennsylvania runs good needs minor things nice truck for 1200 bucks
Watching you struggle to weld the nut onto the brake bleeding makes me feel not so alone. I too have had to fight to weld a nut onto a broken Bolt
Wes, “Undiscovered species”, hahaha!
So glad your tapping around and highly technical special welding technique worked for you on those brakes!
Why did Mrs Wes need to hide the words on her shirt? Always good to see the whole family! The expertly skilled brake bleeding assistant Mrs, Master Kiddo and his toilet frog release back to the wild (that was funny) also the famous mouse hunting and ride along Pup!!
Could the delayed start simply be a warn fuel pump. It would stay primed when the truck is in the key on position, but bleeds back to the tank when the key is off because the pump is no longer engaged electronically by the computer.
Seems I ran into something like that once. Turned out to be fuel pump. But I would also check schematic for voltage drop points.
I know my 95 f350 is a mechanical fuel pump, i believe its the same through to 97 but i could be wrong. Most obs diesels have a single fuel pump in the valley behind the fuel bowl
It’s stiction causing the delayed start
Check transmission range senor for extended crank. I had a tow truck that always extended cranked. I was fixing a unrelated issue and noticed the range sensor was never in park position and back up lights didnt work.
Fixed a short to back up lights and replaced switch. When switch was replaced it now showed it in park on the scanner.
This automatically cured my extended crank issue too.
The thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump stays on keeping pressure while the key is on. Once had a similar problem on caterpillar 3406e. Found that it lost prime with key off because the primary and secondary fuel filters were accidentally swapped into wrong positions.