For your mill, take all but one cutting insert out of your facing head and you'll have a mini flywheel. Helps with vibrations Also from personal experience, keep failing while its cheap only move up to it being expensive when you can make a satisfying product at least twice in a row.
Thanks man ,I'll give that cutter idea a go, it's a hard decision as I'm aware the smaller ones are technically harder to cast, just working out how much materials ect for full size.
I have no interests in motorcycles. I will be interested in how well this casting performs for you. But I'm primarily interested in the casting of your part. From the shape and complexity of your part, to the gating, the flaws, the design choices, etc. I would like to see the gating still on, and then the casting with it removed. How it looks after machining. Hell, why don't you just send it to me so I could examine it myself. ;) Motion is great in videos, but it blurs detail. Some still shots of the casting would be appreciated. It seems that you have little experience in casting, but that you have done a lot of research. And you are using quality materials. I was wondering what alloy you are using. If it needs to be heat treated. Slow cooling tends to not give as hard or strong a casting. Will you need to tap any threads?
That's one hell of a comment and much appreciated. Ok you got it, I will make the next video with much more detail and close ups. Yes you would be right, casting is very new to me, so trying to learn as much as possible! I am using A356 which in the finial form I will heat treat to t6 I think 🤔 and yes I will have probably at least 18 holes to tap, mostly M6 and M8, thinking of getting some of those tighter tolerance taps for higher strength threads. If there is anything else you wish to see or know I'm happy to help. Cheers Logan
from my experience casting RC parts with lost wax, the larger the casting the better it will be. I think that 90% of your issues is from doing it at a smaller scale. Heat retention and surface tension are 2 things that DO NOT SCALE DOWN and are clearly 2 things you are having issues with. Do a trial the same way you are now but full scale, i bet it will work just fine, i know its "saving time and materials" but if you get a good casting at full size now (you probably will) then you are NOT saving time and materials with the smaller scale are you? Give it a try please.
@@TheMotorcycleForge tried lost-wax years ago. Could never get it to come out. (college level art classes.) I have had (much) better luck with sand, though that’s had its issues, too. Hence the desire to try Petrobond here.
rather ambitious casting for gravity... consider centrifuge or vacuum... yes, trickier. centrifuge isnt too hard? look at an old 44 drum and a smallish car rim... you arent really making it easier by shrinking for practice... need a much more fluid pour (silicon!) as the section reduces, and things cool differently. i try to only use old castings for casting, extrusion never gives good results. blending... i see a raised bead around the intakes, along with a valley at the junction... may look nice, but... superfluous and make awkward casting lines. gotta think how it flows in and cools, any constrictions "pinch off" a larger section...which then shrink or develop porosity. in a way, its better to contemplate graphite, and how to machine negatives... along with requisite core pieces. "die" casting... or the old school... greensand and patterns. if youre using commercial refractory... ouch. its why i got a 3d printer. make patterns. never had luck with lost wax/foam, and refractory aint cheap... sand and bentonite/kitty litter is... its also awesome once you learn how to mix it. just have to think out the patterns properly. stop and look at any head, parting lines... consider the core prints, how to hold them...
Thank you for your insight, I have been researching into vacuum casting and how to go about it. I'm aware that casting at 50% is harder, so in theory, if I can nail this, then full size should be a piece of cake, 🤞 There is definitely a few words you have mentioned that I have no clue what they mean, so I'm going to go study up. Cheers Logan
Awesome can't wait to see how the full scale casting goes
Already on it! , in theory it should be easier but will have to wait and see.
Ur awesome bro
Keep going
Awesome ! I would like to see the details of the casting and machining closer to the camera!
Yes totally get that, next video will have much more detail and close ups.
@@TheMotorcycleForge cool
For your mill, take all but one cutting insert out of your facing head and you'll have a mini flywheel. Helps with vibrations
Also from personal experience, keep failing while its cheap only move up to it being expensive when you can make a satisfying product at least twice in a row.
Thanks man ,I'll give that cutter idea a go, it's a hard decision as I'm aware the smaller ones are technically harder to cast, just working out how much materials ect for full size.
I have no interests in motorcycles. I will be interested in how well this casting performs for you. But I'm primarily interested in the casting of your part. From the shape and complexity of your part, to the gating, the flaws, the design choices, etc. I would like to see the gating still on, and then the casting with it removed. How it looks after machining. Hell, why don't you just send it to me so I could examine it myself. ;) Motion is great in videos, but it blurs detail. Some still shots of the casting would be appreciated.
It seems that you have little experience in casting, but that you have done a lot of research. And you are using quality materials.
I was wondering what alloy you are using. If it needs to be heat treated. Slow cooling tends to not give as hard or strong a casting. Will you need to tap any threads?
That's one hell of a comment and much appreciated.
Ok you got it, I will make the next video with much more detail and close ups.
Yes you would be right, casting is very new to me, so trying to learn as much as possible!
I am using A356 which in the finial form I will heat treat to t6 I think 🤔 and yes I will have probably at least 18 holes to tap, mostly M6 and M8, thinking of getting some of those tighter tolerance taps for higher strength threads.
If there is anything else you wish to see or know I'm happy to help.
Cheers Logan
from my experience casting RC parts with lost wax, the larger the casting the better it will be. I think that 90% of your issues is from doing it at a smaller scale. Heat retention and surface tension are 2 things that DO NOT SCALE DOWN and are clearly 2 things you are having issues with. Do a trial the same way you are now but full scale, i bet it will work just fine, i know its "saving time and materials" but if you get a good casting at full size now (you probably will) then you are NOT saving time and materials with the smaller scale are you? Give it a try please.
Yep full size is up next, just wanted to get the process nailed and practice.
Can you do a video showing how you get that paint finish on your fairings? 😁
Well I see someone doesn't want a fast race engine 😆
Petrobond? (Oil-based foundry sand? What I hope to get. Regular water-based greensand tends to be unusually finicky.)
The stuff I'm using is an investment material, made by Ransom and randolf sc20.
Has works really well so far, makes incredibly detailed castings.
@@TheMotorcycleForge tried lost-wax years ago. Could never get it to come out. (college level art classes.) I have had (much) better luck with sand, though that’s had its issues, too. Hence the desire to try Petrobond here.
rather ambitious casting for gravity...
consider centrifuge or vacuum... yes, trickier. centrifuge isnt too hard? look at an old 44 drum and a smallish car rim...
you arent really making it easier by shrinking for practice... need a much more fluid pour (silicon!) as the section reduces, and things cool differently.
i try to only use old castings for casting, extrusion never gives good results.
blending... i see a raised bead around the intakes, along with a valley at the junction... may look nice, but... superfluous and make awkward casting lines. gotta think how it flows in and cools, any constrictions "pinch off" a larger section...which then shrink or develop porosity.
in a way, its better to contemplate graphite, and how to machine negatives... along with requisite core pieces. "die" casting...
or the old school... greensand and patterns. if youre using commercial refractory... ouch. its why i got a 3d printer. make patterns. never had luck with lost wax/foam, and refractory aint cheap... sand and bentonite/kitty litter is... its also awesome once you learn how to mix it. just have to think out the patterns properly.
stop and look at any head, parting lines... consider the core prints, how to hold them...
Thank you for your insight, I have been researching into vacuum casting and how to go about it.
I'm aware that casting at 50% is harder, so in theory, if I can nail this, then full size should be a piece of cake, 🤞
There is definitely a few words you have mentioned that I have no clue what they mean, so I'm going to go study up.
Cheers Logan
Vacuum flask idea: th-cam.com/video/WhWyN0wKkR4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ppv_L0HMB3O0bW7L 7:33