HOW TO… PART 2 ‘CAST FROM SILICONE MOULDS’
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2020
- HOW TO… PART 2 ‘CAST FROM SILICONE MOULDS’
Following on from episode #1 where you will have seen how to make cold cure silicone moulds, this episode will show you how to get the best castings from your new moulds. You can also see how to mould and cast larger parts and get an idea of the quality of casting you can expect.
SUPPLIERS :
This is the RTV rubber used in the video. Give them call to discuss what you need.
Polysil : www.polysilshop.co.uk/
This is a good supplier for starter kits, Alec Tiranti ‘RTV 101 silicone rubber’ : tiranti.co.uk/product-categor...
Small melting pot from Prince August : shop.princeaugust.ie/solder-m...
Tiranti melting pot range : tiranti.co.uk/product-categor...
FIND OUT MORE AT :
www.staplesandvine.com/
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#howto #metalcasting #casting - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
this is the best video about casting metal using silicon molds.
THAKNS FOR SHARING
Thanks Piegrande, I hope you enjoy the rest of my channel.
I tuned in for casting tips (interesting trick with the vents going through the mold!), but then my jaw dropped at the end when you showed your hand finished master from the casting. Lovely work!
Thanks Peter, I'm glad you found the video useful. As you can imagine it takes quite a while to transform the larger ugly castings into finished masters, but it's a great technique for converting an object into metal. 🙂
My jaw dropped when I saw your hands….
Don’t all vents go through the mold?
My experience is with resin casting. Typically the air vents are only cut up, across the face of the open mold. The idea of adding vents at catchpoints THROUGH the rubber is new to me. :)
@@gribzilla no comprende
The quantity of likes verses dislikes (1k to zero) is telling - this is the best guide I have seen for days - thank you so much!
Thanks for the great comment. I'm so glad you like the video. I work hard to create the best content I can, and I'm fortunate that all my videos have a 98%+ like rate. I hope you enjoy the rest of my channel. 🙂
Do you have a “Return YT Dislikes” extension? Because otherwise it might just be because TH-cam removed dislikes on all videos a little while back.
(On mobile rn so I don’t know, either way.)
My channel analytics give me the exact figures for likes vs dislikes. 🙂
Great work and thank you for sharing your techniques and troubleshooting tips!
Thanks for the great comment Shane. Lots more 'how to...' videos to come. I hope you enjoy my channel.
Thank you, Staple & Vine.
Excellent instruction on, HOW TO... PART 1 & 2 'SILICONE MOULDS FOR METAL
Made 3 silicone moulds & completed my first Pewter casting for some model train wheels & axle box , followed your instructions. It all worked perfectly.
That's great news, well done. It's a useful technique to have. I'm glad the tutorial made sense. 🙂
I like this guys voice, pleasant to the ear, thanks for sharing the video.
Interesting process Sera ! Nicely explained too, great work
Thanks James, I try to explain things as if the person I'm talking to knows absolutely nothing about what I do. So that they can feel confident about having a go themselves.
You explained this very well, thank you for the good content.
Thanks for the kind comment. Very much appreciated. I try and explain the process as if I am talking to someone who knows nothing about the subject.
Correction...pewter and white metal are not the same. They have different components. Pewter is usually a stronger alloy than white metal. According to Bing AI: Pewter and white metal are not the same thing. Pewter is a malleable alloy that is made primarily of tin, with small amounts of copper, antimony, and other metals added to it. White metal, on the other hand, is a term used to describe a range of alloys that are white in color and have a low melting point. It is often used as a base metal for plated silverware and jewelry. The composition of white metal can vary depending on the manufacturer, but it typically contains tin, lead, and antimony
They will both cast with this process.
Bing
😂🤣😂🤣
🖕 Bing
Tell us your a liberal without telling us your a liberal.
And being an antique collector I’ll add, white/pot/hard white/Britannia seems to be crystalline and is definitely more brittle and rigid
Nice video . Good skills. Good work . A lot of respect to your craft
Thanks, that's very kind, glad you liked the video. I hope you enjoy the rest of my channel. 🙂
quality work. i dig.
Thanks Brian, I wish my other videos performed this well. These How to videos do skew the channel but are my main earners. 🤔
Amazing
Thanks for the awesome video. I would love to see the actual casting of the maus tank tracks as I plan to cast 1:10 scale jagdpanther tracks. I am planning on machining a drilling jig to drill out the track pin holes and possibly inserting some brass tubing to aid wear and tear. But not even sure whether the pewter tracks will withstand running...
Hi Leo, Thanks for the great comment. The pewter is really too soft for a working model. A lot of hard work would get trashed pretty quickly. I would suggest making pewter masters using this method to prove they work, and then finding somewhere that will cast them for you in something more durable. All the best for your Jagdpanther build. Sera.
hello...your methods are amazing and simple...i going to create my ones too...and the idea to replicate the plastic models are amazing...thnaks to use your time to learn the anothers
Thanks for your kind comments and good luck with your projects.
THANKK YOU MANN THANK YOUU 🎉🎉
You are very welcome. 🙂
Great video mate. I hoping to make some parts for my diecast cars. I pick couple Corgi 007 cars, but both are missing the roof. I don't know if I can use this metal or not. Cheers Graham.
Diecast cars are made from a zinc alloy which melts at a higher temperature than the tin alloy I use. The tin alloy is softer than the zinc which may be a problem for working parts. It would be cheaper for you to buy damaged models on eBay for the spares and use them.
@@StaplesandVine thx for getting back to me. I actually bought a lot of 2 cars sold as spare parts. Figurines, ejector seat and tyres, I can 3D print. Just the roof. I can buy parts from the UK, but they always sold out. I watch a few different diecast cars youtubers and they have purchase replacement metal parts and they seem to crumble or break. I don't know what been used. Thx anyway, have a nice day.
Awesome video I am going to give this a try, question can you also do aluminum with this?
Glad you enjoyed the video Feraco Pictures. NO you can't cast Aluminium with this process. The mould WILL catch fire and melt and you could end up in hospital. It is only for Tin / lead alloys. Happy casting 🙂
great video. Is there any particular formulation of pewter that you like for small, detailed molds? I'd prefer to not use lead if possible.
Different subjects require different alloys. Here's a good list of what is available - www.gwneale.co.uk/castingalloys.html# The lead makes casting a lot easier but lead free is available. I use 90/10 for various reasons.
Hi .
Thank you very much.
I'm trying to make small lead parts to 1/72 airplane model ....like propellers.
In resin, it results to much fragile.
But in lead , requires some manual work to correct de surfaces ...
Some other sugestion to improve the quality in surface and details.... ?
Thanks again .
Thank you for your kind comment. This is a good technique for making propellors but you will always need to carefully clean up the castings with files, sandpaper or wire wool. It's great for smooth surfaces but you will often loose detail in the cleaning up stage. This you will have to re-create by scribing in lines or adding parts from styrene sheet / rod.
I hope this helps, Sera.
Maybe if you can find a 1cm wide long strip of leather, wet it and wrap it around your warmed mold with boards. Even a few wet leather strips would function better than rubber bands and would be heat resistant and reusable for the most part. Inner tubes cut into enormous rubber bands or strips to tie or wrap, could last longer for larger molds
That's a good idea I may give that a try, thanks. 🙂
Muy buena idea
I saw another video doing it with aluminium tape
4:30 So, the large reserve volume amount above the mold helps to force the liquid metal into the fine detailed areas? Not sure if I said that correctly.
Yes, that's correct. Check out 'How to...' #1 for an explanation. The main factors that can affect the detail are the metal temperature, mould temperature and the size of the head of metal.
Thanks for sharing.Can you tell me which kind of material you use to make the mould?
Hi, the mould is made from a room temperature vulcanising rubber (RTV) . You will need a grade that withstands high temperatures, otherwise you will have a fire. I use grade 3481. Check the links in the description.
Wondering if we can use this pewter technique to create molds to inject plastic? For those desktop injection machines from LNS.
Hi, I have no idea whether you could use pewter to make moulds. It has a relatively low melting point which does make it very versatile. I would love to know how you get on.
@@StaplesandVine Thanks! I will try it!
Great info, Can we use "lead" on these silicone moulds ? i Liked !
Thanks The Last Dragon, YES you can cast lead in these moulds. 🙂
Is the copy's surface as smooth as the master's, or is there some level of grain that always needs to be sanded?
Hi Josue. The surface of the castings will always need a degree of cleaning up. Bulky castings require the most attention. I use this process for most of my models so you will see a range of results in my other videos.
Hi and thank you for your videos! I am planning to cast zinc for anodes, do you think this silicone can handle molten zinc? And which silicone is this? Thank you!
Hi, the grade I is for pewter us 3481. I don't think this will be suitable for zinc you may need another process. 🤔
I am thinking of trying this out, is there a reason to have vents coming of the mold that do not lead outside of the mold to allow air to escape??
The vents that do not lead to the edge of the mould are often in 'captive' regions of the mould due to the nature of the part and metal feeds. To vent air from them I drill through the mould and run a vent across the back surface to the edge of the mould. Hope this makes sense.
@@StaplesandVine thats great, thanks for the help
Hello its great work, I use the mold max 60 and when I cast the lead in the mold the silicone is peels off can you tell me why? And thanks so much
Hi, 'Mold Max 60' should be fine, judging by its specs. It's not a rubber I am familiar with. Maybe you didn't mix it to the correct ratio or thoroughly enough? I suggest contacting your supplier.
@@StaplesandVine thanks for the help
So I make fishing lure injection molds for soft plastic out of plaster, could I make a mold of my mold then simply build a wooden box around it and pour aluminum on top ? Would that be able to pick up details in the lure ?
Hi, silicone rubber moulds are only good for casting at around 280-300C. Aluminium melts at a much higher temperature and would instantly destroy your mould and could end you up in hospital. Aluminium is best cast in sand moulds and will need a lot of hand finishing. Hope this helps.
@@StaplesandVine thanks for the reply, there must be some miss communication tho, so what I was intending to do is with one of my plaster molds I can make a mold on top of the plaster mold with more plaster then pour aluminum on the reverse mold in return making half of the mold then repeat for the other side giving me a aluminum mold, I'm hoping the plaster will transfer the detail to the aluminum well enough tho. Sorry if that's tricky to read, I'm not very good at wording things lol
hey quick question! Would you consider using the same techniques in this series with Zamak 3? It has a slightly higher melting and working temp than pewrter and I'm worried it may cause issues, melting around 381-387c
Hi Nora, I'm not sure the rubber would like the high temperature of the Zamac much. It would reduce mould life for sure. I do know that you have to keep Zamac (zinc based) and Pewter (tin based) apart as cross contamination can cause serious casting issues and defects.
what kind of mould material is best for making sterling silver rings? Thank you.
Hi, to cast sterling silver you need to use a process called 'investment casting' or 'Lost wax casting'. This process is for low temperature alloys. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine
Thank you!
Is there something other than rubber bands I can hold the molds together?
Hi Marissa, I use rubber bands for small moulds and G-clamps for larger moulds. Holding it in a vice works well. You can use whatever you like but be careful as the more metal you pour in the more pressure you need to hold the mould closed. The metal is hot and dangerous so always err on the side of caution.
can i use pure zinc metal instead of putter? can the rubber mold handle the melting point of the zinc?
The melting point of zinc is 420 C This will be too hot for the silicone moulds. You will probably end up with a hospital visit...
Is There any other RTV type/brand that can also use for lead??
Sorry, I don't know of any.
I love whaching your videos but I have a question could I cast with just srait aluminum or strong exsruted aluminum I know I spelled exsruted wrong, however hopefully you'll be able to answer my question 😉😁 Thanks Much.
Hi David, NO this method does not work for Aluminium. Aluminium melts at 660C, using this method you will end up with a fire and probably a visit to the hospital. Lots more 'How to' videos to come. Glad you like my channel, thank you for subscribing.
Okay I got it I'm sorry my phone is just a little slow on getting repliesactually this is a new phone so it's a little bit hard to understand it so just reply I asked you already answered it thank you 😁
@@StaplesandVine so my next question is moles that can use for aluminum? And again thank you for your time and response. 🤔
Hi David, try searching for 'sand casting aluminium' in Google / TH-cam.
Esta tan bien explicado que entendi todo sin saber ingles!!! Almenos lo basico
Gracias por el amable comentario espero que disfruten del resto de mi canal.
hi...i have high temp rtv made by rs ...but on the third pour i noticed cracks in the master mold...pls do u have a solution
I don't recommend trying to glue the cracks together with superglue because when it gets hot it gives of cyanide. It sounds like the rubber you are using isn't able to take the heat. Check what it is rated for, but I think you should try a different RTV silicone rubber. Check out the supplier links in 'How to... #1'.
thank you sir... the silicon i am using is from RS Components ...the company is in corby UK....actually what happens is that when the first pour comes out all is fine... i think maybe there are less airways... if i could attach a pic life would be easier!..but i cant on this...anyhow....the manufacturer says its flame retardant and for high temp
Hi Im getting a fair amount of size difference between master and metal cast - (maybe 8- 10%) Masters are mix of green stuff and pro create. Is this normal?
Hi Rupert. That shrinkage is very high. The bigger the mass you are casting the more shrinkage you will get. Try reducing your casting temperature to 280C or increasing the size of the head of metal to get more pressure in the mould. You may have the mould too tightly clamped together which is flattening the mould cavity. Use as little pressure as possible. Hope this helps.
Staples and Vine Im new to model casting and was wondering can you link me a decent supplier of metal ingots. Im currently using prince august six star metal and have to say it is excellent as are their molds.I was wondering if you know any other suppliers of metal ingots and also molds.And if you could also advise me as to good mixing ratios for metals ie. to make decent model metal what ratios of pewter to tin etc...
Hi Andrew. This is the company I use for all my casting alloys www.gwneale.co.uk/index.html and this is where I get my silicone rubber from www.polysil.co.uk/ Both companies are very helpful. Give them a call or send them an email.
Staples and Vine Excellent thank you for your assistance.I will check them out in the near future.Do you know any companies that supply premade molds for casting metal? So far Ive found prince august the dunken company and berliner zinnfiguren . do you know any else?
@@andrewfaulkner4424 sorry, I have no idea. I have always made my own.
Staples and Vine No worries thanks again.
Will this work for Aluminum?
Definitely not. The mould will not take the temperature aluminium melts at. You will end up with a fire and a trip to hospital...
what kinda silicone is that? you can drill vents?
Check out the description of 'How To...' #1 for silicone suppliers, and how to make the moulds. The air vents are drilled with a 1mm sharp drill at high speed. pump the drill in and out of the hole to keep it clear. Hope this helps.
What brand of silicone do you use
I get mine from a company called Polysil. But the grade I use, RTV 3841, can be bought from a variety of suppliers.
Is this silicone suitable for lead casting???
This grade 3481 is suitable for lead casting at temperatures from 280 - 300 C. Take care.
@@StaplesandVine cheers for the quick reply 👍🏼
Hi sir. Can I cast large action figures there? Thank you.
This process works very well for small parts about 2-3 inches long. Large figures are best cast in smaller sections and then assembled or cast in resin with a metal powder to give them weight.
@@StaplesandVine okay got it. I will research on it more and I will watch all of your videos. Thank you!
What kind of metal do you use for casting?
Hi Alvino, I use pewter which is a mixture of Tin and Lead. There are a lot of varieties out there but basically you need a variety containing lead to help the metal flow. It's perfectly safe as long as you don't eat large amounts of it.
Having some Health and safety experiences, stay away from vapours and wash your hands as well.
Could I cast with something like this? Does the mold have to be rubber? Could I make a silicone mold, or will it melt? Instead of plasticine Could I use fimo clay?
These moulds are made from silicone rubber! Always use a high temperature grade '3481' is what I use. You could try Fimo but it is a lot more expensive than Plasticeine and harder to rework. You will use quite a lot so bare that in mind to.
GREAT CAN ADD LINKS TO USA SHOPS
Sorry, I'm in England and don't know of any USA suppliers....😔
How long would be the mold sustain repeatively after being poured with the liquid metal?
Hi, a good point. Fine undercuts of rubber can break off at any time depending on the nature of the master. This is common with any type of rubber mould and happened with my Maus tank tracks. You should easily get 100 castings off a mould before it starts to generally degrade. This method is best for short runs or prototypes as the castings do need a lot of cleaning up. You could cast a set of tank tracks using this method but be prepared for a lot of filing!
Is it suitable for casting copper?
NO, this method is only suitable for metals that melt up to 300C. Anything else will involve a fire and a visit to hospital.
ماثمن القالب الدائري لو سمحت
مرحبًا ، تبلغ تكلفة قوالب المطاط الأسود الدائرية حوالي 30 جنيهًا إسترلينيًا للقوالب الصغيرة مقاس 9 بوصات و 40 جنيهًا إسترلينيًا للقوالب الأكبر مقاس 12 بوصة. بالطبع سوف تحتاج إلى آلة ضغط القالب والصب التي تبلغ قيمتها عدة آلاف من الجنيهات الإسترلينية.
@@StaplesandVine الف شكر
What is that metal, how much°C it needs to melt? price/L or kg?
Hi MrAntza, the metal I use is pewter / white metal. There are a lot of different grades. I cast at about 280C . The price goes up and down and varies with quantity. Currently I pay about £25 / Kg.
@@StaplesandVine So mostly Tin? How its si cheap for you, I found it like 70€/kg 😅🤔
I buy my metal from AIMALLOYS www.aimalloys.com/snpb-lead-free-casting-alloys The more you buy the cheaper the price. Tin is a commodity and the price does go up and down. Currently all metal prices are high. You can check online.
can aluminium be cast in silicone mould
No I'm afraid not. Aluminium will set the mould on fire and you may end up in hospital - not good.
Hello from slovakia :) I have 2 questions, what kind of metal are you using for your molds (cannot understand due to my bad english)? And secondly, are these white metal molds strong enough to be tracks / wheels / axis of 1:10 RC tank model ? Thank you for your How To series, it helped me a lot. I always thought i need strong aluminium molds for this project, but equipment for aluminium casting is too expensive for me ... so i will try this and see :)
Hi, thanks for your comment. The moulds are made from silicone rubber and are only suitable for casting white metal. White metal is great for non functioning parts but not durable enough for working parts such as tank wheels and tracks. They would wear out and break very quickly. You could try searching for 'investment casting' / 'lost wax casting' on google which is for stronger metals which cast at a higher temperature. Silicone moulds are not suitable for high temperature casting so please, don't use this method for casting aluminium.
@@StaplesandVine thanl you very much :)
Can we cast plastic in this moulds
Silicone moulds can be used to cast resin parts but the mould design is different. That is for another day.
@@StaplesandVine and also post video on injection moulding 😊 at home .
I'm afraid injection moulding is out of my league. It's a pricey process...
Silicone Ruber RTV type...???
See more details in 'How To... #1' but this is the rubber I use www.polysilshop.co.uk/product/genuine-3481-rtv-silicone-rubber/
What kind of silicone do you use?
The grade I used is RTV 3481. Select the catalyst based on how long a pot life you want.
I thought that it will melt the silicone mold because the liquid metal is hot, why it didnt destroy the silicone tho?
The metal is cast at about 290C. The silicone is special high temperature silicone which can withstand the heat. Only high temperature silicone rubber can do this.
Can you cast aluminum with this mold?
No I'm afraid not. Aluminium casts at 700-750C. The silicone moulds will just burn up at this temperature. To cast Aluminium you need to make sand moulds which is a totally different process.
@@StaplesandVine Thanks Benjamin (and of course Staples and Vine), this was also the question I was going to ask.
It was strange to see you use 2 ladles of metal in one pour. With most casting an interrupted pour does not end well.
Thanks for the comment Dan. A good point about the second pour. In my case the first pour fills the part cavity and the second just creates more of a head of metal to increase mould pressure. Certainly in other cases two pours would not be good, causing cold shuts and other issues.
Please use aluminum or lead
Tin or lead only NOT Aluminium - very dangerous.
Modern pewter is about 91 percent tin, 7.5 percent antimony, and 1.5 percent copper. lead in pewter was banned in 1974 for a good reason, so if you are going to handle your model a lot make sure its lead free.
You are absolutely right. Pewter containing lead should be handled with respect and was banned from drink / foodware long ago. I take care at all times not to ingest any.
You should mold some fingernail clippers 'dude'.
Good idea, I tried that but they don't cut very well...
@@StaplesandVine You can always try a grinder. If that doesn't work a chainsaw will cut well.
@@Tiebox I've got a bench grinder, that should do it... 🤔