@@TheMotorcycleForge You are welcome to use my flowbench anytime if you want. I know you want to do everything yourself, which is super cool and definitely how I roll too. But the offer is there, and I can share a few little tricks and traps in regard to flow data and what to look for and what to ignore etc and also cam material compatibility if you want.
@KevinBan1 I will most likely take you up on that offer in the new year. I'm super busy between now and Christmas, so hopefully, I will get it machined and ready to flow soon.
@martynclinton8092 thanks Marty, as for who I follow a few which are similar are. Two stroke stuffing, Rob Dahm, Alec Steele, This old Tony and another kiwi who does the same type of stuff. Ods and ends machining.
Hi Nice content ,an idea from experiance make some dummy valve seats in aluminium seat angles as follows intake 30/45/67( 1.2 mm 45deg )/35 /45 /75 (1.2mm 45 deg)throat id 0.88-0.9x vod exhaust 30/45 65 (1.4 mm 45 deg) throat id 0.86 x vod or try a 2mm rad from 45 into the throat seat material trojan from columbia materials 9% better thermal properties non toxic use 0.2 mm interferance with liquid nitrojen for the final instalation.
@@TheMotorcycleForge Hi logan No problem I have been involved in flow testing an ice development over 30 years and have modified more engines than I care to think about bikes cars and anything with a piston, I like the look of your head especially the valve to port angle ,this kind of design requires a slightly smaller throat diameter to retain good inertial filling so don't open the throats up Too much keep the intake around 88% of the valve od on intake and not more than 86 % on the exhaust as this port angle will serve excellent flow around the entire valve diameter, if you go larger it will ruin the potential cylinder filling, the port ID on intake should somewhat depend on the engine speed at which you plan to produce max torque and hp ,as a guide intake is around 85% of valve od and 88 on exhaust if your valve size choices are on point, ther are many bits to consider like intake port surface Finnish should have a rough finish Not polished!! Exhaust can be smooth, short side radious don't go mad leening it back without trial and testing, cloverleaf chaimber with as small a volume as possible no sharp edges leading into the combustion space don't sink the valve inside the combustion space 😉 Big area = a less heat efficient head ,injectors should have excellent atomisation a mist not large droplets . Maybe a surface discharge plug aswell but they are expensive, coil on plug !! Good luck buddy 👍
@jamesgarrard4361 Awesome details, James! Yes, I'm sure my intake throat is around 88% from memory. I plan to rev this engine to 14, and ye, I'll tr to keep the combustion camber as small as possible. I was even thinking of ceramic coating the roof of the combustion chamber and exhaust ports to try to keep heat in the exhaust gasses. Yeah, I won't be polishing the intake. I'm probably going to leave around a 240-grit finish but haven't decided yet. Will have injectors later on, but the first run I plan to use a carb, so I'm not changing to many variables at once. Thank again, cheers Logan
great stuff! really looking forward to seeing it running! is it not worth using some cheap standard valves for the first test runs? i have cut a lot of cheap aliexpress valves to length and welded high carbon tips with good success many times
@Noonenaught It has crossed my mind, but I'm quite hesitant using cheap Chinese parts as I have been hospitalized from them failing before. I have some used r6 valves, which I can use for mock up ect but I will be using the real thing for the running engine.
You can get tap followers to make sure you're square on your hole as you tap. If you just drilled the holes on the mill it should be set up perfectly for when you tap
Thinking it would be a good time to establish datums, top and bottom, for repeatability of xyz, through subsequent setups. I’m looking forward to the machine work yet to come. What are you looking to use for camshaft cores, or did you pattern it after the OEM? Are you going to run the cam journals directly on the cam bores or incorporate bearing shells? On my own effort, I’m aiming to increase valve lift to .4~.45, valve diameter, with a 88% throat, as that is the point where the the “choke point” switches from the valve curtain area, to the throat. My goal being to achieve / maintain maximum port energy, rather then losing it for going the typical route of larger valves. Looks good, so far, and thanks for sharing.
@georgedreisch2662 Yes the datum points are definitely on my mind, thanks for the tip. Cam shafts will be made from scratch as well, chilled cast iron seems to be popular but thinking about using 4340 if it's possible. Straight on cam bores, not sure I'll have room for shells. Yep 88% throat is what I aimed for on the cad for the same reasons. I need to do some more research into cam profiles but I'd imagine a R6 profile would be a real decent starting point.
Pozdrav sa balkana..kod nas je imala fabrika za proizvodnju dizel motora..i blokovi motora su se iznosili napolju i ostavljali na spoljasne vremenske uslove po nekoliko godina na leto i na zimu..inace moj savet ako zelis da probas da izradis klip za motor po principu kako ga prave kompanija SPEED OF AIR sa dimlets jer ima veliko poboljsanje pogotovo kod naturally asppyred
@noahdropkin1162 One of my concerns is using second-hand parts. You don't know the history, and I have heard some bad stories with race R6's dropping valves. I think I'll just have to break open the piggy bank.
Great to watch what you are doing.
I found this fascinating, and I'll watch more of your videos. Just one thing: I started out not knowing what a 150cc 4T is. And I still don't know 🙂
@properjob Glad to here it!.
4T is a shortened way of saying 4 stroke and it will have a capacity of
150cc/ 0.15L
@@TheMotorcycleForge Gotcha, thanks.
Keep up the great work, Logan 😊
@pauls.2526 Will do!
This is pretty interesting. Good luck with the project!
@danielstewart3507 Thanks Daniel, I'll need it.
Bloody hell. Top shelf!
What a fun journey, we'll done!!
@@KevinBan1 Cheers Kevin
@@TheMotorcycleForge You are welcome to use my flowbench anytime if you want. I know you want to do everything yourself, which is super cool and definitely how I roll too. But the offer is there, and I can share a few little tricks and traps in regard to flow data and what to look for and what to ignore etc and also cam material compatibility if you want.
@KevinBan1 I will most likely take you up on that offer in the new year.
I'm super busy between now and Christmas, so hopefully, I will get it machined and ready to flow soon.
Looking good
Great series
Cant wait for each one.
Can i ask which other channels you follow?
@martynclinton8092 thanks Marty, as for who I follow a few which are similar are.
Two stroke stuffing, Rob Dahm, Alec Steele, This old Tony and another kiwi who does the same type of stuff.
Ods and ends machining.
Really inline with me then…
2strole stuffing
Rob dahm
Odds and ends 👍👍
Awesome work
John Britten Jr. here!
@@mr2981 Very high praise, much appreciated.
Hi Nice content ,an idea from experiance make some dummy valve seats in aluminium seat angles
as follows intake 30/45/67( 1.2 mm 45deg )/35 /45 /75 (1.2mm 45 deg)throat id 0.88-0.9x vod
exhaust 30/45 65 (1.4 mm 45 deg) throat id 0.86 x vod or try a 2mm rad from 45 into the throat
seat material trojan from columbia materials 9% better thermal properties non toxic use 0.2 mm interferance with liquid nitrojen for the final instalation.
@jamesgarrard4361 Thanks James, that's some awesome information and the details I'm after.
Will add all this to my book and give it a go.
Cheers Logan
@@TheMotorcycleForge Hi logan
No problem I have been involved in flow testing an ice development over 30 years and have modified more engines than I care to think about bikes cars and anything with a piston, I like the look of your head especially the valve to port angle ,this kind of design requires a slightly smaller throat diameter to retain good inertial filling so don't open the throats up
Too much keep the intake around 88% of the valve od on intake and not more than 86 % on the exhaust as this port angle will serve excellent flow around the entire valve diameter, if you go larger it will ruin the potential cylinder filling, the port ID on intake should somewhat depend on the engine speed at which you plan to produce max torque and hp ,as a guide intake is around 85% of valve od and 88 on exhaust if your valve size choices are on point, ther are many bits to consider like intake port surface
Finnish should have a rough finish
Not polished!! Exhaust can be smooth, short side radious don't go mad leening it back without trial and testing, cloverleaf chaimber with as small a volume as possible no sharp edges leading into the combustion space don't sink the valve inside the combustion space 😉
Big area = a less heat efficient head ,injectors should have excellent atomisation a mist not large droplets . Maybe a surface discharge plug aswell but they are expensive, coil on plug !! Good luck buddy 👍
@jamesgarrard4361 Awesome details, James!
Yes, I'm sure my intake throat is around 88% from memory. I plan to rev this engine to 14, and ye, I'll tr to keep the combustion camber as small as possible. I was even thinking of ceramic coating the roof of the combustion chamber and exhaust ports to try to keep heat in the exhaust gasses.
Yeah, I won't be polishing the intake. I'm probably going to leave around a 240-grit finish but haven't decided yet.
Will have injectors later on, but the first run I plan to use a carb, so I'm not changing to many variables at once.
Thank again, cheers Logan
Cant wait to hear this thing raw 😅
@@shariefbegg4782 Me too!
great stuff! really looking forward to seeing it running! is it not worth using some cheap standard valves for the first test runs? i have cut a lot of cheap aliexpress valves to length and welded high carbon tips with good success many times
@Noonenaught It has crossed my mind, but I'm quite hesitant using cheap Chinese parts as I have been hospitalized from them failing before.
I have some used r6 valves, which I can use for mock up ect but I will be using the real thing for the running engine.
Cool
Buy oversized used valves and mill/grind to the size required.
@jamest.5001 They are titanium and I have heard you can't even lap them in as they have a hard coating and once that's gone they need replaced.
You can get tap followers to make sure you're square on your hole as you tap. If you just drilled the holes on the mill it should be set up perfectly for when you tap
@@MrCreeper1O2 It has just been added to my ever growing list of engineering stuff I need 😅
Thinking it would be a good time to establish datums, top and bottom, for repeatability of xyz, through subsequent setups.
I’m looking forward to the machine work yet to come.
What are you looking to use for camshaft cores, or did you pattern it after the OEM?
Are you going to run the cam journals directly on the cam bores or incorporate bearing shells?
On my own effort, I’m aiming to increase valve lift to .4~.45, valve diameter, with a 88% throat, as that is the point where the the “choke point” switches from the valve curtain area, to the throat. My goal being to achieve / maintain maximum port energy, rather then losing it for going the typical route of larger valves.
Looks good, so far, and thanks for sharing.
@georgedreisch2662 Yes the datum points are definitely on my mind, thanks for the tip.
Cam shafts will be made from scratch as well, chilled cast iron seems to be popular but thinking about using 4340 if it's possible.
Straight on cam bores, not sure I'll have room for shells.
Yep 88% throat is what I aimed for on the cad for the same reasons.
I need to do some more research into cam profiles but I'd imagine a R6 profile would be a real decent starting point.
Down draught intake defo the way to go what sorta rpm u looking at bore and stroke ?
@karlvanboxel561 I think the red line will be around 14k.
Bore 67mm, stroke around 44.5mm but red line ect will all depend on what stroke I go with.
Pozdrav sa balkana..kod nas je imala fabrika za proizvodnju dizel motora..i blokovi motora su se iznosili napolju i ostavljali na spoljasne vremenske uslove po nekoliko godina na leto i na zimu..inace moj savet ako zelis da probas da izradis klip za motor po principu kako ga prave kompanija SPEED OF AIR sa dimlets jer ima veliko poboljsanje pogotovo kod naturally asppyred
Why are the valves so expensive?
@@tonyhill8300 Made of that lovely material Titanium 😍
By a cast-iron guide from a car and modify it , any engine repairer should have plenty
@bigears4014 I'll ask around. The R6 guides were actually pretty good price wise.
It was the valves that will hurt the wallet
Can you just buy a whole R6 used head and steal the valves and valve guides from it?
@noahdropkin1162 One of my concerns is using second-hand parts. You don't know the history, and I have heard some bad stories with race R6's dropping valves.
I think I'll just have to break open the piggy bank.
You have email