Man! This couldn't have come at a better time! I was just setting up my throttle and linkage on my rail last night, and now after seeing this video, it gives me an idea on how to make mine even better! Thanks EZ!
It's amazing how the universe helps us all. When the need is there and you don't know what to do it sends you an answer. Take care my friend and thanks for watching and commenting
Like the white board example, it helps to explain the geometry. I need to spend the money for updated linkage for sure. Thanks for another great video buddy!! Catch you soon.
Damn it I gotta buy one of those mose cables that seems like the perfect way to attach my petal to a throttle body and I can get rid of more crap from inside the tunnel where my radiator hoses are going to run. Thanks man
I have looked at a few of these Morse cables online and my only concern is the end that connects to the carb - it does not look like the wire cable that runs through the shroud. Do they come with the wire cable end or do they require one to modify the carb end for it to work? The other question is whether or not one will need stronger springs on each end? I had experience with Morse type cables in the Army and some of them got stiff and difficult to push/pull over time. Thanks for the great videos!
The morse cables are universal. Everyone has to customize the carb size to fit there needs. In my case the morse cable terminates above the bell housing and I use a tiny barrel fitting to go from the fat cable to a single wire like VW used to go the rest of the way threw the fan shroud. The morse cable has a dry cable that does not need lubrication and it moves very easy for a long time. I think that morse cable's were originally designed for Marine boat use so don't forget to check out that stuff. Everyone steals idea's from other uses to make there own stuff work better. Think out of the box and don't be afraid to spend money to experience new things.
Super helpful video and I am looking to upgrade my rail with a morse setup. I just threw on a CB performance weber IDF dual carb linkage, how does the morse cable connect to the throttle linkage on the engine side? The one I am looking at looks like it has 2 threaded sides for various fittings.. Is the engine side just a bare wire?
Hey EZ GZ...great information as usual. I have a question, does the cable run thru the fan shroud and how sharp can it be curved without binding? ( actually that's two questions!) Thanks for posting
The cross bar linkage has height adjustment for just that scenario. Sometimes the tin is all jacked up. I have covered the whole area with a thin peace of aluminum plate and made a new hole. That worked out just fine. If the cable is rubing it will start to cut a slot and then start sticking
I just bought a non vw 2 seater and I know nothing about them. I need to hook up the throttle linkage, brakes and clutch cables (both hydraulic) this video helped a lot. I have a 4cyl 2.0l nissan engine, that has the throttle link bar you had shown, trying to figure out how to get the stuff in between. Can I email you?
I prefer to use U tube comments on my advice so it can help others as well. Check my U tube home page and play lists for more info. Good luck with your projects
Sumthin to take into account is outside the box....impact prevention....if your goin barefoot or light shoe, and make a boo-boo mistake and come to a hard stop sharp edges can severely injure flesh and/or bone so best to pad edges and bars with dense foam or even soft wood/cork....was thinkin of your heel on that angle metal....amongst other impact points.....just sayin an ounce of prevention....and yeah protect those carbs too....:)...
Thanks for your contribution. You must have been a motorcycle safety instructor at some time. They always taught us to dress for the crash instead of the ride. Someday I'm going to mount a VW engine on the back of a lazy boy recliner. Enjoy the rest of your day my friend.
No! It's your basic aftermarket offroad fuel tank for a sand car. carcraftstore.com/stainlesssteelfueltank.aspx However, I'm sure I could contribute a lethal amount of natural gas from the drivers seat. LOL
I have a question. I have a buggy like your tub buggy and occasionally I catch a pop-up rain storm that completely water soaks the air filters from the splash from the rear tires. Does the covers you have on all your cars stop the water soaking of the filters or is there something available that will. I have the oval cotton reusable filters on dual 44 IDF Weber carbs.. thanks for any help
If it will allow air threw it will allow water threw. The outwears just stops the bulk of the junk from fowling the oiled cotton filter. A must have for any open engine. IMHO
I have used AA pistons in lots of street car engines with no problems. Great price. I used the short connecting rods for my 74X88 so I wouldn't have to use so many shims but I had to cut a lot of the piston skirt. Not sure how the 90.5 would be. Let me know how yours turns out. Here is an article that was given to me after I finished building my 1800. Might help you with yours. www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/
TheEZGZ did your motor produce a noticable amount of hp gain. I am building the motor because I finally have the money and I also want the motor for occasional snacking on those fart can Honda’s ;)
TheEZGZ the engine will include 74 mm counterweighted forged crank Stock rods AA 90.5 pistons and cylinders Stock heads for now Dual kadrons 1 1/2 merged header with stinger 9:1 compression 1:1 rockers
If your going to go threw all that trouble to cut the case why don't you just build a 2110 or 2276 it's almost the same cost. The only reason I built that 1800 was to see what could be done with a stock case. It felt like a good 1776 when I was done. Reusing the case was a bad idea. I'm going to have to replace it one day as the oil pressure is already fallen off a bit.
TheEZGZ because I had a buddy that was selling the case and crank together for 120, he knew nothing about it. Later on I realized the crank was a counterweight and a 74 mm and the case was bored out for 92s. The rods are shorter too
Nothing the matter with stock. I run them on my sandrail the last week and my friends had fancy aluminum disc brakes. I went everywhere they did. hehe Do not by the EMPI cheap disc brakes for an off road toy. To Heavy. Jamar, CNC are very nice $$$$$$
Hey hey! I’ve got a question about front suspension for a dune buggy. Using a balljoint beam. Mine is very choppy. How have you made yours feel smoother?
Most of the folks are ran with including the sanrail in this vid were link pin front beams. The shock would end up being your top or bottom stop and most times the long tie rod would hit the frame. That's not to say a Ball Joint front end can't work well. With a sandcar there is very little weight on the front end and the leaf springs are to stiff. Some guys took the leaf springs out and ran a long threw bolt from one side to the other. Then use some used coil over shocks from a small motorcycle. You should be able to stand on your front beam and jump up and down and get an easy 4 inches of travel if you way 160 pounds or more... Try running it with no shock absorbers at all. It's really fun on the straight always but sure doesn't help when your turning. I have used old worn out shocks and that worked well. If you can find some old shocks that leak oil that's even better. If they are plain shocks without pressurized gas You can drill a 1/8 inch hole in the bottom on the center pointing to the car center and let the oil drip out. Don't make the hole so it's pointing towards you as the first few times you take the car out oil may squirt out. On link pin shocks I would even use worn out shocks mounted upside down and cut the shaft protector metal off. You can't do that on ball joint because it has and eye at the bottom and straight shaft at the top. The whole problem with ball joint is that when you run out of travel your ball joint is trying to tear itself off. There is just a slot. Just experiment and look at other folks cars and see what works best for your driving style and weight of your car. Not to mention how much money you want to throw at it. The beams are spaced differently on ball joint compared to link pin so its a major deal to try and swap them out.
Man! This couldn't have come at a better time! I was just setting up my throttle and linkage on my rail last night, and now after seeing this video, it gives me an idea on how to make mine even better! Thanks EZ!
It's amazing how the universe helps us all. When the need is there and you don't know what to do it sends you an answer. Take care my friend and thanks for watching and commenting
Not a problem! I have loved watching your videos for the past 3 years. Its even getting me going on uploading to my channel.
Like the white board example, it helps to explain the geometry. I need to spend the money for updated linkage for sure. Thanks for another great video buddy!! Catch you soon.
Damn it I gotta buy one of those mose cables that seems like the perfect way to attach my petal to a throttle body and I can get rid of more crap from inside the tunnel where my radiator hoses are going to run. Thanks man
You can buy Mores Cable different place. Comes on most power Boats. Here is a link
www.appletreeauto.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1&keep_https=yes
Thanks for the info!! I'm ready to see that rail on some trails!!
Me too, i have already posted a few vids ahead to clear out some memory in my camera and make new for some of the sand and trails stuff
Tanks for the update on the gas pedal cable ezgs
Glad you could stop by Michael. Have a great day!
I have looked at a few of these Morse cables online and my only concern is the end that connects to the carb - it does not look like the wire cable that runs through the shroud. Do they come with the wire cable end or do they require one to modify the carb end for it to work? The other question is whether or not one will need stronger springs on each end? I had experience with Morse type cables in the Army and some of them got stiff and difficult to push/pull over time. Thanks for the great videos!
The morse cables are universal. Everyone has to customize the carb size to fit there needs. In my case the morse cable terminates above the bell housing and I use a tiny barrel fitting to go from the fat cable to a single wire like VW used to go the rest of the way threw the fan shroud. The morse cable has a dry cable that does not need lubrication and it moves very easy for a long time. I think that morse cable's were originally designed for Marine boat use so don't forget to check out that stuff. Everyone steals idea's from other uses to make there own stuff work better. Think out of the box and don't be afraid to spend money to experience new things.
Thank you sir!
Super helpful video and I am looking to upgrade my rail with a morse setup. I just threw on a CB performance weber IDF dual carb linkage, how does the morse cable connect to the throttle linkage on the engine side? The one I am looking at looks like it has 2 threaded sides for various fittings.. Is the engine side just a bare wire?
great info thanks for sharing buddy
Hey EZ GZ...great information as usual. I have a question, does the cable run thru the fan shroud and how sharp can it be curved without binding? ( actually that's two questions!) Thanks for posting
The cross bar linkage has height adjustment for just that scenario. Sometimes the tin is all jacked up. I have covered the whole area with a thin peace of aluminum plate and made a new hole. That worked out just fine. If the cable is rubing it will start to cut a slot and then start sticking
Great video.
Thank You Sir. I appreciate the support
You have bare cable or morse cable going thru the shroud?
I just bought a non vw 2 seater and I know nothing about them. I need to hook up the throttle linkage, brakes and clutch cables (both hydraulic) this video helped a lot. I have a 4cyl 2.0l nissan engine, that has the throttle link bar you had shown, trying to figure out how to get the stuff in between. Can I email you?
I prefer to use U tube comments on my advice so it can help others as well. Check my U tube home page and play lists for more info. Good luck with your projects
Sumthin to take into account is outside the box....impact prevention....if your goin barefoot or light shoe, and make a boo-boo mistake and come to a hard stop sharp edges can severely injure flesh and/or bone so best to pad edges and bars with dense foam or even soft wood/cork....was thinkin of your heel on that angle metal....amongst other impact points.....just sayin an ounce of prevention....and yeah protect those carbs too....:)...
Thanks for your contribution. You must have been a motorcycle safety instructor at some time. They always taught us to dress for the crash instead of the ride.
Someday I'm going to mount a VW engine on the back of a lazy boy recliner. Enjoy the rest of your day my friend.
This is amazing!!! What is the fuel source for this engine. Looking at the tank. Is that natural gas?
No! It's your basic aftermarket offroad fuel tank for a sand car. carcraftstore.com/stainlesssteelfueltank.aspx However, I'm sure I could contribute a lethal amount of natural gas from the drivers seat. LOL
TheEZGZ lol thanks for the info
I have a question. I have a buggy like your tub buggy and occasionally I catch a pop-up rain storm that completely water soaks the air filters from the splash from the rear tires. Does the covers you have on all your cars stop the water soaking of the filters or is there something available that will. I have the oval cotton reusable filters on dual 44 IDF Weber carbs.. thanks for any help
If it will allow air threw it will allow water threw. The outwears just stops the bulk of the junk from fowling the oiled cotton filter. A must have for any open engine. IMHO
Nice
Hey ezgz I'm currently building a 1904cc 74x90.5. What do you think about the 90.5 piston liner kit from AA.
I have used AA pistons in lots of street car engines with no problems. Great price. I used the short connecting rods for my 74X88 so I wouldn't have to use so many shims but I had to cut a lot of the piston skirt. Not sure how the 90.5 would be. Let me know how yours turns out. Here is an article that was given to me after I finished building my 1800. Might help you with yours. www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/
TheEZGZ did your motor produce a noticable amount of hp gain. I am building the motor because I finally have the money and I also want the motor for occasional snacking on those fart can Honda’s ;)
TheEZGZ the engine will include
74 mm counterweighted forged crank
Stock rods
AA 90.5 pistons and cylinders
Stock heads for now
Dual kadrons
1 1/2 merged header with stinger
9:1 compression
1:1 rockers
If your going to go threw all that trouble to cut the case why don't you just build a 2110 or 2276 it's almost the same cost. The only reason I built that 1800 was to see what could be done with a stock case. It felt like a good 1776 when I was done. Reusing the case was a bad idea. I'm going to have to replace it one day as the oil pressure is already fallen off a bit.
TheEZGZ because I had a buddy that was selling the case and crank together for 120, he knew nothing about it. Later on I realized the crank was a counterweight and a 74 mm and the case was bored out for 92s. The rods are shorter too
How do you have the morse cable going thru the shroud and hooked to the linkage?
Behind the shroud there is a cable clamp that attaches the morse cable to a smaller throttle cable and the rear carb linkage is standard stuff
hi I'm build a one seat dune buggy and i was wounding what are some good brakes to use?
Nothing the matter with stock. I run them on my sandrail the last week and my friends had fancy aluminum disc brakes. I went everywhere they did. hehe Do not by the EMPI cheap disc brakes for an off road toy. To Heavy. Jamar, CNC are very nice $$$$$$
1 thing i hate most about vw cars and vans is my feet are too big for the pedals.
Can't help ya there......
Hey hey!
I’ve got a question about front suspension for a dune buggy. Using a balljoint beam. Mine is very choppy. How have you made yours feel smoother?
Most of the folks are ran with including the sanrail in this vid were link pin front beams. The shock would end up being your top or bottom stop and most times the long tie rod would hit the frame. That's not to say a Ball Joint front end can't work well. With a sandcar there is very little weight on the front end and the leaf springs are to stiff. Some guys took the leaf springs out and ran a long threw bolt from one side to the other. Then use some used coil over shocks from a small motorcycle. You should be able to stand on your front beam and jump up and down and get an easy 4 inches of travel if you way 160 pounds or more... Try running it with no shock absorbers at all. It's really fun on the straight always but sure doesn't help when your turning. I have used old worn out shocks and that worked well. If you can find some old shocks that leak oil that's even better. If they are plain shocks without pressurized gas You can drill a 1/8 inch hole in the bottom on the center pointing to the car center and let the oil drip out. Don't make the hole so it's pointing towards you as the first few times you take the car out oil may squirt out. On link pin shocks I would even use worn out shocks mounted upside down and cut the shaft protector metal off. You can't do that on ball joint because it has and eye at the bottom and straight shaft at the top.
The whole problem with ball joint is that when you run out of travel your ball joint is trying to tear itself off. There is just a slot. Just experiment and look at other folks cars and see what works best for your driving style and weight of your car. Not to mention how much money you want to throw at it. The beams are spaced differently on ball joint compared to link pin so its a major deal to try and swap them out.