Awesome, the dealer has been stonewalling my daughter on her 2016 fit, say they can't replicate it. Cold solder joints are so common on the circuit boards I work on from the lead less solder they use. Thankyou, for showing how to get the cluster out, that was what was stopping me from tackling this myself!
OMG, I've dealt with this issue both with my 2012 Honda Fit and my current 2016 Honda Fit. This was perfectly clear instructions and I can't wait to fix this issue. It has driven me nuts for 10 years whenever it's cold in the morning. All of this info is a godsend. THANK YOU for taking the time to record and upload this here!
Wanted to thank you for this fix. Our 2018 Honda Fit had this same problem and soldering the circuit board fixed the problem. The dealer would have replaced the complete instrument cluster. This saved us hundreds of dollars and it took less than an hour to R&R the cluster and do the soldering. Thanks again!
Success on a 2016 Honda Fit! Local Honda dealer quoted $1,231 to replace and re-program the instrument cluster which caused me to look for a fix. Thanks for the video.
I'm now in the phase of the pandemic where I am starting to fix every little thing on my 2015 Fit. This is now on my list. Thanks for putting this together.
Thank you! This issue has been driving me nuts for a couple years. Only 26k miles on my 2016 fit, too. I picked up a solder kit, watched some tutorials and was able to do this fix myself! Getting the cluster out was the hardest part. I'd recommend removing vent/cup holder on the left side, and the vent faceplate on the right. Just a couple minor extra steps but helped alot.
Yo! Thank you for posting this video! I have been trying to figure out the problem for 2 years! I have searched forums and nothing sounded reasonable until this video. Thank you for keeping it DIY and helping out others!
Thanks for the video. I followed this procedure for my 2019 Fit. One month later, and after our coldest spell in 30 years, the display works as new. The only suggestions I would add are 1) The pins to solder are extremely small and close together. I used a headband with magnifier to see what I was doing. These are nice work accessories for any small-scale work and only cost about $20. 2) Before soldering, I loosely put wide masking tape over the circuit board everywhere except where I was soldering to reduce the chance that a piece flew off and causes a short somewhere. 3) While dismantling the front panel, I found that the trickiest part was after it came loose. On our car, it was a very tight squeeze to get the panel out from behind the steering wheel (even though it was lowered). 4) To help this initial removal, the vent-fan cover on the right of the display can be pulled straight out. I didn't pull it all the way out, just enough to move the left side out. It helped to get the display out.
Very helpful video. Performed this fix today, and when looking at the 8 pins (left to right), pins 2 and 3 definitely had a small crack in the solder joint. Thanks for taking the time to educate us. Saved a ton of money and not feeding the throw away society we live in. Cheers! (b.t.w, car is a 2019 HRV LX)
A good video showing what you need to do, but doesn't highlight the main obstacles; getting the unit out and back in. With due respect to Mr Fix Anything, it's worth watching a newer, more detailed, TH-cam video by Andy Cullen. The repair is not difficult and it's satisfying to see the gauge work! I removed the silver ventilator covers (they clip in place like the instrument unit surround) and undid the screw holding the dashboard cup holder in place. Using careful force, I pulled this panel back which loosened the left side of the dashboard enough to wriggle the instument unit out. Be careful not to scratch the plastic lens cover to the gauges. Once you've wriggled the unit back into place, after the soldering work, make sure you line up the screw holes of the top centre tab before fully tightening the two lower side screws or you'll see a gap when you clip back the front surround. Allow yourself two hours if you are an amateur like me.
Great video. Just fixed my 2019 Honda Fit with this. Time will tell if it will handle the cold this winter, but I’m very glad to only be out $13 compared to $1300!
This worked- THANK YOU. The removal was a bit more difficult than described - i had to remove the left air panel and a trick was to have the dash white side up and pull out to the right after lowering the steering wheel. The other comments about the solder only requiring reflow also worked for me. I also conformal coated the back side so (hopefully) it will never happen again.
Another success story! thanks for a very helpful video and George M's dashboard breakdown below was also helpful All done in a little over an hour. Reflowing the solder connections was easy; didnt need the flux - just used rosin-core solder - flux is in it. But I did end up bridging some of the connections. Copper-braid desolder wick did the trick for de-soldering the bridged connection. Getting the cluster out/back in was the hardest part of the whole exercise. Getting the center vent out of the way was key to getting instrument cluster back in. Center vent just pops out with a prying and a little more force than you think you should apply to plastic piece... Taking the clear plastic cover off the instrument cluster before putting it back in maybe also gave a little more wiggle room going back in but may not have been relevant. The clips in the clear plastic didn't all survive reinsertion but there seemed to be an excess of them so no harm when all done.
I did a little bit of looking into this, and it appears to be the same instrument cluster, yes. If you tried this on your crv cluster it shouldn't hurt. Remember, we aren't adding anything new, we are just reinforcing the solder joints which were already there
Personally I keep my soldering iron on the hottest temperature it will go. Hobby soldering irons don't get hot enough to damage the electronics if you're only touching the metal
Just did this fix today. It worked but seems like my cruise control broke in the process. Any ideas how that could happen on a 2016 fit? I followed the video exactly and carefully. Is cruise control connected to the same board?
Unfortunately I don't know how that could happen. I do not know if the cruise control is on the same board. Maybe check that everything was put back together correctly?
Update: when I put the dashboard back into place there was a small cord that I had to plug into the back of it. I did plug it in but the fit was loose which caused my cruise control to randomly turn off when in use. Sometimes I wouldn’t be able to turn it on either. To fix it all I had to do was take the dashboard back out and plug the cord back in until it fit snugly. Hasn’t been a problem since! Dashboard display is still working great since soldering it too. Very happy with this video!
Maybe . . . It depends on the issue. If the light isn't working due to a cracked solder joint, then probably, but you might want to look into it further.
Why isn't this a recall item. Seems almost intentional since the dealer will tell you that you need to replace the whole display unit for more than a grand!
@@Ubbie117 There is a tool you can use. Here is a link to one from amazon: www.amazon.com/Lesnow-Desoldering-Electric-Soldering-Auxiliary/dp/B09CYKNYRF Basically, you press it down and it will stay clicked into the down position. You heat the solder and press the button and a spring will shoot the back of it up and create a vacuum which sucks up solder. This will remove all of the liquid solder which is there, so you'll need to probably add more solder once you have removed the bad soldering.
I would need it to be explained as if talking to a child, starting with a list of the supplies needed and clearly explained instruction on basic soldering, yes. Your video was great…I just knew I couldn’t do it bc I don’t have the supplies, nor the experience soldering and then I imagined getting that cluster in and out and getting super frustrated.
@@FunkaliciousFeline Ok, I'm going to make a video for you of basic soldering instructions and technique, including links to items to purchase. I'll also make a more detailed instruction video of removing and putting back in the instrument cluster for the fit :) I don't know how long it'll take me to do this, but I'm going to try to get to it soon.
Wah-ha-ha Boo-hoo-hoo. I see it can be fixed, but there's no way I can do this genius fixit. I'm simply not adept, no way. So I see in comments what the costs for car repair dudes in business charge and I gag. Thanks.
Any solder flux should be fine, and any soldering iron which gets over 500 degrees (Fahrenheit). Most soldering irons have a max temperature around 850 degrees. Here is a kit from Amazon.com (I am not an affiliate and don't get paid for these, so feel free to buy something else if you find a better deal) Soldering iron kit, 60W soldering gun, 9-in-1 solder iron kit tool, adjustable temperature from 200 to 450℃, 5 soldering iron tips, solder wire stand for soldering and repair a.co/d/4i6nN1q
Awesome, the dealer has been stonewalling my daughter on her 2016 fit, say they can't replicate it. Cold solder joints are so common on the circuit boards I work on from the lead less solder they use. Thankyou, for showing how to get the cluster out, that was what was stopping me from tackling this myself!
I'm so glad this helped you!
OMG, I've dealt with this issue both with my 2012 Honda Fit and my current 2016 Honda Fit. This was perfectly clear instructions and I can't wait to fix this issue. It has driven me nuts for 10 years whenever it's cold in the morning. All of this info is a godsend. THANK YOU for taking the time to record and upload this here!
I'm so happy this could help you!
I just fixed my 2016 Fit thanks to your video. You probably saved me hundreds of dollars that the dealer would have charged me. Thank you so much!
I'm so glad this helped you!
Wanted to thank you for this fix. Our 2018 Honda Fit had this same problem and soldering the circuit board fixed the problem. The dealer would have replaced the complete instrument cluster. This saved us hundreds of dollars and it took less than an hour to R&R the cluster and do the soldering. Thanks again!
I'm so glad this helped you! I went literally years with it being broken and it was so frustrating.
Success on a 2016 Honda Fit! Local Honda dealer quoted $1,231 to replace and re-program the instrument cluster which caused me to look for a fix. Thanks for the video.
I'm so happy this helped you! That's the exact reason I made this video :)
I'm now in the phase of the pandemic where I am starting to fix every little thing on my 2015 Fit. This is now on my list. Thanks for putting this together.
Glad I could help!
Thank you! This issue has been driving me nuts for a couple years. Only 26k miles on my 2016 fit, too. I picked up a solder kit, watched some tutorials and was able to do this fix myself!
Getting the cluster out was the hardest part. I'd recommend removing vent/cup holder on the left side, and the vent faceplate on the right. Just a couple minor extra steps but helped alot.
Yo! Thank you for posting this video! I have been trying to figure out the problem for 2 years! I have searched forums and nothing sounded reasonable until this video. Thank you for keeping it DIY and helping out others!
So glad I could help! Glad you got it fixed
Thanks for the video. I followed this procedure for my 2019 Fit. One month later, and after our coldest spell in 30 years, the display works as new. The only suggestions I would add are
1) The pins to solder are extremely small and close together. I used a headband with magnifier to see what I was doing. These are nice work accessories for any small-scale work and only cost about $20.
2) Before soldering, I loosely put wide masking tape over the circuit board everywhere except where I was soldering to reduce the chance that a piece flew off and causes a short somewhere.
3) While dismantling the front panel, I found that the trickiest part was after it came loose. On our car, it was a very tight squeeze to get the panel out from behind the steering wheel (even though it was lowered).
4) To help this initial removal, the vent-fan cover on the right of the display can be pulled straight out. I didn't pull it all the way out, just enough to move the left side out. It helped to get the display out.
I'm so glad this helped you! These are great suggestions, thanks for taking the time to help others :)
Very helpful video. Performed this fix today, and when looking at the 8 pins (left to right), pins 2 and 3 definitely had a small crack in the solder joint. Thanks for taking the time to educate us. Saved a ton of money and not feeding the throw away society we live in. Cheers! (b.t.w, car is a 2019 HRV LX)
Awesome! Thanks for trying it on another type of vehicle!
A good video showing what you need to do, but doesn't highlight the main obstacles; getting the unit out and back in. With due respect to Mr Fix Anything, it's worth watching a newer, more detailed, TH-cam video by Andy Cullen. The repair is not difficult and it's satisfying to see the gauge work! I removed the silver ventilator covers (they clip in place like the instrument unit surround) and undid the screw holding the dashboard cup holder in place. Using careful force, I pulled this panel back which loosened the left side of the dashboard enough to wriggle the instument unit out. Be careful not to scratch the plastic lens cover to the gauges. Once you've wriggled the unit back into place, after the soldering work, make sure you line up the screw holes of the top centre tab before fully tightening the two lower side screws or you'll see a gap when you clip back the front surround. Allow yourself two hours if you are an amateur like me.
Great video. Just fixed my 2019 Honda Fit with this. Time will tell if it will handle the cold this winter, but I’m very glad to only be out $13 compared to $1300!
So glad it helped you :)
Dude! That worked! Thank you some much! I was a little concerned because my soldering techniques are rusty. Thank you again.
So glad it helped you!
This worked- THANK YOU. The removal was a bit more difficult than described - i had to remove the left air panel and a trick was to have the dash white side up and pull out to the right after lowering the steering wheel.
The other comments about the solder only requiring reflow also worked for me. I also conformal coated the back side so (hopefully) it will never happen again.
What does "conformal coated" mean?
Another success story! thanks for a very helpful video and George M's dashboard breakdown below was also helpful
All done in a little over an hour.
Reflowing the solder connections was easy; didnt need the flux - just used rosin-core solder - flux is in it. But I did end up bridging some of the connections. Copper-braid desolder wick did the trick for de-soldering the bridged connection.
Getting the cluster out/back in was the hardest part of the whole exercise. Getting the center vent out of the way was key to getting instrument cluster back in. Center vent just pops out with a prying and a little more force than you think you should apply to plastic piece... Taking the clear plastic cover off the instrument cluster before putting it back in maybe also gave a little more wiggle room going back in but may not have been relevant. The clips in the clear plastic didn't all survive reinsertion but there seemed to be an excess of them so no harm when all done.
I'm glad this worked for you!
THANK YOU for helping me fix my 2015 Honda Fit!!
@@tracytime6304 you're so welcome! Glad it worked!
Thanks that fixed my daughters 2019 Honda HRV 💯
Totally worked for my 2015. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
glad you documented this for everyone 🔥🔥🔥
I hope it helped you! Thanks!
This is really great! Thanks for the instruction!
Спасибо за видео, такая же беда на Фит 2019 года. Привет из России, всем мира и добра.
Thank you! Don’t forget to get gas and change that oil!
dude thank you so much!!! this is awesome
Thanks for this vídeo , do you know if it is the same cluster for a 2016 HRV ? .. I AM asking because it is the same failure
I did a little bit of looking into this, and it appears to be the same instrument cluster, yes. If you tried this on your crv cluster it shouldn't hurt. Remember, we aren't adding anything new, we are just reinforcing the solder joints which were already there
Hi, I'm new to soldering. What temperature can I use on these contacts?
Personally I keep my soldering iron on the hottest temperature it will go. Hobby soldering irons don't get hot enough to damage the electronics if you're only touching the metal
do you need anything else for this fox other than a soldering kit?
Yes. You will also need a Phillips head screwdriver.
What soldering watt is best used on this repair? Please let me know what wattage you used! Thank you!
I don't know the wattage, sorry. The temperature I used was 896 degrees Fahrenheit
Nice work 💯
I suck at soldering, knowing my luck I'll mess it up even more. I'll just take it to the dealer. Good instructions though.
Thank thank thank you!!
You are welcome welcome welcome!
This is awesome! Do you do ever fix lights? Like LED lights?
I fix anything. If you have a request for something to fix, just let me know!
Just did this fix today. It worked but seems like my cruise control broke in the process. Any ideas how that could happen on a 2016 fit? I followed the video exactly and carefully. Is cruise control connected to the same board?
Unfortunately I don't know how that could happen. I do not know if the cruise control is on the same board. Maybe check that everything was put back together correctly?
Update: when I put the dashboard back into place there was a small cord that I had to plug into the back of it. I did plug it in but the fit was loose which caused my cruise control to randomly turn off when in use. Sometimes I wouldn’t be able to turn it on either. To fix it all I had to do was take the dashboard back out and plug the cord back in until it fit snugly. Hasn’t been a problem since! Dashboard display is still working great since soldering it too. Very happy with this video!
Hi my honda fit handbrake light indicator won't display, can I apply the same principle as this?
Maybe . . . It depends on the issue. If the light isn't working due to a cracked solder joint, then probably, but you might want to look into it further.
Is there a specific type of solder makeup that should be used?
No. I just used the standard cheap solder which came with the soldering iron. Any electronics solder should work fine as long as you use solder flux.
Thanks for sharing
Muy ricas, saludos desde Chile. Oly
Worked for me as well, though the connectors are verrry tiny, so I needed a magnifying glass to help my aging eyes.
Glad it worked for you!
Why isn't this a recall item. Seems almost intentional since the dealer will tell you that you need to replace the whole display unit for more than a grand!
I might’ve made it worse, not sure how. Now the screen is just black. Like it’s not on at all
Sounds like you might have crossed a connection. Check to make sure you did not accidentally get extra soldering between the metal posts.
@ that is probably the issue. How do you recommend removing and soldering that went between posts?
@@Ubbie117 There is a tool you can use. Here is a link to one from amazon: www.amazon.com/Lesnow-Desoldering-Electric-Soldering-Auxiliary/dp/B09CYKNYRF
Basically, you press it down and it will stay clicked into the down position. You heat the solder and press the button and a spring will shoot the back of it up and create a vacuum which sucks up solder. This will remove all of the liquid solder which is there, so you'll need to probably add more solder once you have removed the bad soldering.
@@mr.fixanything1524 thanks. I’ll try that today and respond here if things are working!
I aM IMPRESSED with anyone capable of doing this. I will suffer with the display working intermittently. I am least glad to know why it is.
I totally understand that. Would a detailed tutorial on soldering help give you the confidence to fix this yourself?
I would need it to be explained as if talking to a child, starting with a list of the supplies needed and clearly explained instruction on basic soldering, yes. Your video was great…I just knew I couldn’t do it bc I don’t have the supplies, nor the experience soldering and then I imagined getting that cluster in and out and getting super frustrated.
@@FunkaliciousFeline Ok, I'm going to make a video for you of basic soldering instructions and technique, including links to items to purchase. I'll also make a more detailed instruction video of removing and putting back in the instrument cluster for the fit :) I don't know how long it'll take me to do this, but I'm going to try to get to it soon.
@@mr.fixanything1524 That would be great! I'm planning to tackle the fix next week, and a video on these two points would be greatly appreciated.
Wah-ha-ha Boo-hoo-hoo. I see it can be fixed, but there's no way I can do this genius fixit. I'm simply not adept, no way. So I see in comments what the costs for car repair dudes in business charge and I gag. Thanks.
Do you have a list of exact materials needed and where is the best place to get them to ensure quality?
Any solder flux should be fine, and any soldering iron which gets over 500 degrees (Fahrenheit). Most soldering irons have a max temperature around 850 degrees. Here is a kit from Amazon.com (I am not an affiliate and don't get paid for these, so feel free to buy something else if you find a better deal)
Soldering iron kit, 60W soldering gun, 9-in-1 solder iron kit tool, adjustable temperature from 200 to 450℃, 5 soldering iron tips, solder wire stand for soldering and repair a.co/d/4i6nN1q
Nice video