In 1977, I was given a Hobart restaurant mixer that kept jumping out of gear. I took it apart, and found that the clutch dogs had worn to the point where they were slipping out of engagement. A phone call to the supplier, revealed that the 1977 price for new dogs was over $700. Outrageous to say the least, so I took to them with a hand file, dressing a small back-rake on the mating surfaces. It worked beautifully after that for many years.
What a great result. I feel your relief that it no longer jumps out of gear now. She'll be good for another 30 years I reckon. Just the right choice of tunes too.
Shifter fork that won't wear out 👍 Undercut the drive dogs 👍 Full distance shifting 👍 Good solid spring ball detent 👍 Bandsaw blade blunt 😠 (It's always the way) Awesome vid, as usual. 🏅
Nice, that gearbox should be good for another 70 years 👍 Old mechanics trick when installing any heavy flanged mounted unit , cut the heads off of a couple of smooth shank, long bolts and use them as guide pins. Once you have the other bolts started unscrew them and put the regular bolts in.
@@RotarySMP I'm sub'd, but I don't catch them all. His stuff is great, but it's sometimes "too polished" for me. I more prefer the "hanging out in the shop with the creator" ambiance. You nail that by the way, thx.
that rotring drawing tablet brought back painfull memories, blood sweat and ink blotches all over……. 34 years ago my geometric drawing teacher didn’t appreciate my efforts…….. and i still own that thing😁 great work as always
@@wizrom3046 We had wooden desks but perpex T-squares at school. My dad design a boat around that time, so I guess he bought the Rotring, and I borrowed it for my homework.
Lovely to see a machine coming back into use, and better than ever, in some respects. When I bought my new to me mill, the guy was also selling a vertical DoAll bandsaw, the one with a powered table, so you could set it to cut and leave it going. I could have got it for a very good price, but decided to leave it. A decision I have regretted ever since.
Fantastic to see the gearbox working 😀 I think if you tilt the top wheel so the bottom of it moves towards the body the blade will move to the middle of the bottom wheel. I don’t think you need to adjust the bottom wheel.
Hi Julia, Thanks, I am really happy to be finally able to use it. I dont think the DoAll has an in-out adjustment on the top wheel. Just up down and tilt.
@RotarySMP yeah tilt the top wheel so it points at the bottom wheel. Obviously my explanation needs explaining 🤣 because both wheel is domed they don't have to be coplanar.
One step at a time my friend. Looking like a good productive machine already ! We are going to have to get you sponsor for some new moccasins though ! 😊
Several times, I've had reason to mount a steel part on an aluminium Arbor with super glue like you did here. If the fit is too close, then the greater expansion of the aluminium when heating it causes everything to tighten up, making it impossible to remove with heat alone 😊 Solvent wins instead.
Nice job as usual. Way back in the days before mobile phones and plasma cutters being common one of the jobs I had was maintaining metal cutting bandsaws in a production enviroment. It was on a rabble of differing bandsaws often mede for different materials and apps. May I suggest a good rule of thumb setting the blades up. The wider the blade the more pressure you need to apply to the saw push guide stops. A 1/4" wide blade doesnt need push back as much as a 2" wide blade for example. Also I found that the lower push back guide also should lead. It was pretty standard for a non adjustable drive wheel so we used to machine an angle to pull the blade into the guide on them. However that cant be to much and varies with blade thickness. The tilt on the top wheel is really only there to adjust for blade stretch and wheel wear. They will almost always want a crown machined into the rubber. Well if that doesnt confuse you the Dementia hasnt taken full hold yet. Great to see some Hylomar in use as well, its highly underrated. It was the only thing that kept my Valiant head gaskets from leaking back in the day. Cheers
I only just sent it now. Glad they will finally be put to some good use now that that is all sorted. Next I need to cut some similar gears for myself. Will be a good opportunity to try out the dro and cylindrical grinder.
re: the lower wheel, the received wisdom in the woodworking world is to make sure the wheels are co-planar, using a straightedge and the lower wheel as reference (since the upper wheel tilts). You'll often find one wheel is in a plane fore or aft of the other, and you can use shims/washers to move one of the wheels forward (or remove washers to move one back). Your lower wheel might be too far back leading to the blade tracking forward.
The bottom wheel on a band saw isn't usually adjustable for tilt, Inca bandsaws perhaps unusually have the blade running on the front of the wheels not the crown, position back & forth on the lower wheel is controlled by moving the rear blade tracking roller or whatever back & forth starting with the bottom one (top one fully retracted initially).
@RotarySMP I think your blade should run on the front edge of the wheel. Like every woodworking bandsaw. This counteracts the tendency to jump at the back. Mind you, the coplanareity of the two wheels might be off a smidge. Since the blade sat nicely on the bottom wheel. Pretty sure there is a manual for your machine somewhere.
On my 14" bandsaw. I just added some washers so the balde ran centrally on the bottom wheel. Dont know if thats the correct way of doing it but worked for me
On the bandsaws I’ve owned they had to be tracked so the teeth were just off the front edge of the tyre- my understanding is to prevent tyre damage from the teeth. It will be interspersed to see what the DoAll manual advises. With the top wheel vertical ( i.e. no tracking adjustment applied ] it should be in the same plane as the lower wheel just as you would align two pulleys. Adjust the lower wheel position on the shaft to suit & use packing washers as required. Great repair and improvements. I’m in the process of making a new fence for my DeWalt 738 as the one supplied is useless.
Probably not the official method, but what I used to do is adjust the tracking on the upper tire and then adjust the blade support ball bearing on the blade guide which controlled the fore and aft position of the blade at the table, and iterate until I had it centered on the lower tire.
Nice to see the Rotring drawing board! I used an A3 one for many years, until it broke in half. The replacemetn had the same latch on the ruler as yours, but I found the older one with a squarer design was much easier to use : I could use the side of my hand to position in the "Y", but the button one I had to press in with a finger ...
@MrLampbus We had British Thornton drawing boards, really rather nice, A2 I think, flat wooden board, used to hold the paper on with spring steel clips. When I decided to do Tech Drawing for my O Levels, my parents bought me my own B T board and instruments for my 14th birthday. The board is still around, but the instruments vanished in a house move years ago. I did a college course for AutoCAD 10 for DOS, eventually started using AutoCAD LT, never went back to pencil and paper. I am currently having extreme difficulty getting my head around Solidworks, for the 3D printer.
@@billdoodson4232 I learned CAD with AutoCad 13, some Inventor, then CATIA V4 and V5, before moving to Onshape and and now Freecad. I think Onshape and Inventor were the simplest to learn.
@RotarySMP I could do with easy, my almost 70 year old head doesn't pick things up like it used to. I'll get there with it, just taking longer than it should. I had stern words with the last pair of apprentices I had working for me. "Don't get fat. Don't get old." I see them on Facebook, neither has got fat like me, but they disobeyed by getting older.
A thing of beauty is a joy for ever: Its loveliness increases; it will never Pass into nothingness; but still will keep A bower quiet for us, and a sleep Full of sweet dreams, and health, and quiet breathing.
My DoAll 1612 is tracking the same as yours, with no guides in. I have shimmed the gearbox, and that helped. I have shimmed the frame as suggested in the manual. That did nothing. I changed the tires, did not help. Got busy with other things but will look at it again soon. It can't be anything else but alignment.
To check the tracking on the bottom wheel, i would completely back away the blade guides. If the blade guide pushes the blade towards the user, the bottom tracking can´t be fixed by the top adjustment. On my cheap chinese bandsaw, i set the tracking without the blade guides in contact, then move the guides to where the blade wants to live. Never dropped a blade off the wheels.
Hello Mark - there were shims fitted to the gearbox when I disassembled my DoAll. They appeared to establish the center of the lower wheel crown with respect to, say, the blade guides. It didn’t occur to me that they might not have been all the same thickness, meaning I didn’t discover whether they were influencing tilt. 🤔
Awesome, really pleased that you have got the gearbox fixed. It’s been a thorn in your side. Was a big job really. Welll lots of small jobs making a bigger headache. All done now tho.
Congrats on the better than new gear box. It's better than new, because now you know exactly how it works and are able to make / order parts for it, as needed. I need to make one of those drawing tablets... my drawing board is a piece of foam core that I put on top of my welding table, and then I just use a square against the side of the foam core. Happy Sunday... was feeling ... well disappointed in my fellow americans recently. Thanks for posting ... I need the distraction. =D
Im guessing heat didn't work on the super glue because the aluminum expanded from the heat more than the steel, turing the fit from clearance to interference
You didn't look to put much tension on the blade in your tests. When I was working we had bandsaw problems so got the blade rep in. He had a blade tension gauge and showed that we were not putting anywhere near enough tension on the blade - with the large machines (25 & 32 mm wide blades) we used he showed that even with the tensioner wound up to the maximum the blade could not be overtensioned. Correctly tensioning the blade largely stopped the blades coming of the wheels in use and also largely sorted issues with straightness of cut and blade wandering. You might get a blade supplier rep to visit you if you asked nicely to do such a check, though IIRC Model Engineer's Workshop magazine have run an article in the last year or so on how to build & calibrate a blade tension gauge.
Thanks for the tip. I have a feeling DoAll had a suggestion to tension to a specific musical note when you pluck the rear section of blade. I need to check for that.
Rotring profile drawing boards are still made in A4 (letter) and A3 (double that) sizes. amzn.to/40BdtUZ Over here, there are always dozens of them for sale, used, in the classifieds.
Looks to me like the lower wheel is not on the same plane as the upper wheel. Instead of shimming the gear box to get them on the same plane, place washers on the shaft between the wheel and gear box.
I went to the Coldplay concert in summer, and they give everyone "3D" like glasses with diffraction grids which turn spectral highlights into hearts. I knew exactly what they would be used for :)
Keep an eye on angular play of the lower wheel. If it gets too much movement, your intershaft bushing is slogged out. That was the start of this saws troubles.
@RotarySMP The top has tension and tilt. You shouldn't worry about the bottom tracking forward unless it's coming off when you relax the cut. Is there a backup bearing on the lower guide? Does it rub, spinning the guide constantly? Really, it's a better situation than having the teeth eating the tire.
@RotarySMP top tracking should easily bring the blade back on the lower wheel, but as I said it's better to have the 'heel' tracking on the crown. While I don't have a DoAll I've been using woodworking bandsaws since the mid '70's and had one with a low range that I often used on metal. Tension is important too. If yours has a spring scale be certain that spring hasn't sacked (I usually pluck the free side of the blade and listen to the pitch) Now that it is working you're going to find many uses and wonder how you did without it! 👍
Just watched world War Z yesterday and saw that the passenger plane had a limb in the floor with a extendable latter from the cockpit and was wondering if it's actually true/if they have one or if it's just some Hollywood movie stuff/trick. And I figured. Who is better to ask about that then my mate mark
Limb in the floor? Not sure what you mean there. Most of the larger Boeings have a hatch near the entry door, down into the main electronics compartment. There is also a door from the MEC through into fwd cargo. Most airlines just put the vinyl floor over the hatch, as pilots are never going to go in there and there is little they could do anyway.
@@RotarySMP ment a hatch ( damn google translate. couldnt remember the word at that point in time so used google ) sorrt for the confusion i just say that there was also a extending latter that extended all the way down to the takeoff/landing field where they crawl up and iwas woundering if that part actually exist or just something they came up with ( like magically had it so they could get them on the plane ) th-cam.com/video/XcubpWgI_dg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=kinobscura around the 1:26 mark
@@flikflak24 Maybe the 747 has a built in ladder. The 777/767/757 dont, so you use a maintenance stand. that was an Airbus A310 in the movie, an I am not sure what their config is. But there is the E&E bay maintenance access hatch just behind the nose landing gear, which gets you into that main electronic equipment bay, and then if the airline kept the hatch exposed (Boeing), you could get up into the fwd galley area. It doesn't go into the cockpit, and it is not as simple as hollywood made it look.
@@RotarySMP so it was basicly hollywood magic with that plane. specially since in the movie the latter came down from infront of the landing gear and not behind it thanks for clearing my woundering m8
i wonder if the lathe and mill are 'single phase capable' like the haas tm-1 and tl-1 (toolroom-mill/lathe)... the [new gen.] boeing workers were striking over a month at Everett and finally accepted a contract after costing boeing $6+billion...they wanted a pension which not even the usps postal service does anymore....as if they're in 1965 or are federal employees...they would say boeing is too cheap after acquired from bill boeing and family by corporate conglomerate which is also true: skipped bldg. maintenance, sub'd flight software to india and also the electronics which are key components and led to the crashes that crashed the stock they tried to and did, max out for awhile.
Three phase is common here, so we dont really have those single phase concerns. The lathe would just need the motor jumpered from 400 to 240, and the VFD would probably be fine. The Variator needs 3Ph. The drives I installed are already single phase. The mill would need more extensive modification.
I pray to the Lord that you will find success with this gearbox. Amen. Sucess would not be possible without our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. Greeting from usa.
I love machining channels but I noticed most of them end up spending more time fixing their machines than actually making projects with their machines. I got into your channel when you were building the camera dolley
It is certainly a danger. A new saw of the quality of the DoAll would be out of my price range, but it has taken more repair than I hope to get it working this well.
You may have to shim the gearbox to match the guides/upper blade wheel as shown in the instruction manual. Also, mine has a spacer/shim behind the lower blade wheel as shown in the parts manual. I've got parts and instruction manuals if you're interested.
Success ! I imagine that you have already done so , Find one of the many online how to set up your bandsaw guides even one for wood saws would do Found this one by Grizzly tools on youtube How To: Bandsaw Tracking and Coplanar Setup and Adjustment
Mate, that was an epic conclusion. Glad you managed to solve the gear box issue!
You and me both Geoff :)
This is really the best band saw gearbox repair channel on TH-cam. Good job man!
Thanks. I hope it stays repaired :)
In 1977, I was given a Hobart restaurant mixer that kept jumping out of gear. I took it apart, and found that the clutch dogs had worn to the point where they were slipping out of engagement. A phone call to the supplier, revealed that the 1977 price for new dogs was over $700. Outrageous to say the least, so I took to them with a hand file, dressing a small back-rake on the mating surfaces. It worked beautifully after that for many years.
Dogs are more tolerant than we think :)
@@RotarySMP They were made of soft iron so they could be engaged while running.
@@Landrew0 No wonder they were rounded over then :)
Once again, a lovely productive distraction from what is happening in the rest of the world. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it Philip.
What a great result. I feel your relief that it no longer jumps out of gear now. She'll be good for another 30 years I reckon.
Just the right choice of tunes too.
Thanks for the music feedback. I am glad to be finally able to use it as it was designed.
Shifter fork that won't wear out 👍
Undercut the drive dogs 👍
Full distance shifting 👍
Good solid spring ball detent 👍
Bandsaw blade blunt 😠
(It's always the way)
Awesome vid, as usual. 🏅
Thanks 👍 I have a few blades, and figured I'd start with the crappiest one :)
Props to you for the persistence.
Thanks Jim. The DoAll is worth it.
Me: "I've reached the end of TH-cam. 😢"
Rotary SMP: "I got you."
Happy to provide :)
Nice, that gearbox should be good for another 70 years 👍
Old mechanics trick when installing any heavy flanged mounted unit , cut the heads off of a couple of smooth shank, long bolts and use them as guide pins. Once you have the other bolts started unscrew them and put the regular bolts in.
Good tip thanks.
Nice to finally see some lathe action too. The new shifter fork, shafts, and dogs looks nice too. Thank you for the video.
It i nice to get that machine back in service finally.
Great job fixing the gearbox. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the kind feedback Mark.
I really need to consider superglue more for my workholding. Nice work on the saw.
Thanks. Do you watch clickspring? Chris seems to super glue everything.
@@RotarySMP I'm sub'd, but I don't catch them all. His stuff is great, but it's sometimes "too polished" for me. I more prefer the "hanging out in the shop with the creator" ambiance. You nail that by the way, thx.
the reggae music is awesome
Reggae? Its more like 90’ porn music 😂
I really liked that first song as well.
that rotring drawing tablet brought back painfull memories, blood sweat and ink blotches all over……. 34 years ago my geometric drawing teacher didn’t appreciate my efforts…….. and i still own that thing😁 great work as always
I did tech drawing for 5 years at school, and really enjoyed it. I bought this Rotring about 10 years ago out of nostalia for hand drawing :)
I loved it and got everything out that I wanted.
My teacher didn't like my work at all. And I had zero care for his demands of cleanliness
We had wooden boards and wodden set-squares... that was in high school AND in college.
I must be OLD... 🧓
@@wizrom3046 We had wooden desks but perpex T-squares at school. My dad design a boat around that time, so I guess he bought the Rotring, and I borrowed it for my homework.
@@RotarySMP we had to walk UPHILL all the way to drawing class...
BOTH WAYS
😎
It must be super satisfying to get all those issues sorted. The blade tracking should be relatively simple.
Regards, Preso
Hi Mark,
Yeah, I just need to work through it systematically. Good to finally have it fully usable.
Brilliant indeed!
Thanks for your comment.
Very nice work sir. I’m sure you have fixed the problem now and improved it. Great work
Thanks. It should be a game changer to have it working properly.
Nice fix on that gearbox. Looks like it'll really last. Pity the tracking issue didn't magically go away. Nice bonus sparks too! - Heather.
Hi Heather. At least it is now usable. The tracking should not be too hard to sort out.
Im so stoked to see this bad boy finally going back together! Getting closer to having that do-all finished. Congrats on that gear box fix buddy!
You and me both! Thanks.
Interesting as always, and keeping the music fresh - love it!
Thanks for the feedback on the music. It is hard to get it right.
Lovely to see a machine coming back into use, and better than ever, in some respects.
When I bought my new to me mill, the guy was also selling a vertical DoAll bandsaw, the one with a powered table, so you could set it to cut and leave it going. I could have got it for a very good price, but decided to leave it. A decision I have regretted ever since.
I bet you did Bill. They mad nice saws.
Well done and thank you for bringing us along!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Fantastic to see the gearbox working 😀 I think if you tilt the top wheel so the bottom of it moves towards the body the blade will move to the middle of the bottom wheel. I don’t think you need to adjust the bottom wheel.
Hi Julia, Thanks, I am really happy to be finally able to use it.
I dont think the DoAll has an in-out adjustment on the top wheel. Just up down and tilt.
@RotarySMP yeah tilt the top wheel so it points at the bottom wheel. Obviously my explanation needs explaining 🤣 because both wheel is domed they don't have to be coplanar.
@@julias-shed Yeah, I did that, but think I need to space the lower wheel fwd a little more.
I used an acid brush, to spread the Hylomar, less mess/squeeze out.
Best wishes from Northern Canada.
Good tip, thanks Carl.
One step at a time my friend. Looking like a good productive machine already !
We are going to have to get you sponsor for some new moccasins though ! 😊
Thanks Jason. Yeah, I fear that this pair only has another year to 18 months left in them :)
Several times, I've had reason to mount a steel part on an aluminium Arbor with super glue like you did here. If the fit is too close, then the greater expansion of the aluminium when heating it causes everything to tighten up, making it impossible to remove with heat alone 😊 Solvent wins instead.
Yep, good point.
This was a well-fought victory... all the way to coating both sides for no leaky leaky. Congrats. Tracking should [?] be no problemo.
I hope it will be easy enough. I just need to find some time to read up on it.
@@voltairegoethe Hylomar. If it's good enough for Rolls Royce it's good enough for a motorbike engine and certainly a bandsaw gear box! 🙂
@@jimurrata6785 Best thing to come out of Wigan. Although, some would argue that Wigan Casino and Northern Soul clinch it.
One of the few YewChoobers who knows how to hold a hacksaw. I watched a lot od Pask Makes over the weekend, and he really doesn't.
Hi Andy. I am sure I had that beaten into me in my apprenticeship :)
Dreamy lathe work and hearty sparks 😍
Thanks for watching Jules.
Its fixed!! Good work!
Phil
Thanks Phil. I am really happy about it.
Nice job as usual.
Way back in the days before mobile phones and plasma cutters being common one of the jobs I had was maintaining metal cutting bandsaws in a production enviroment. It was on a rabble of differing bandsaws often mede for different materials and apps. May I suggest a good rule of thumb setting the blades up. The wider the blade the more pressure you need to apply to the saw push guide stops. A 1/4" wide blade doesnt need push back as much as a 2" wide blade for example. Also I found that the lower push back guide also should lead. It was pretty standard for a non adjustable drive wheel so we used to machine an angle to pull the blade into the guide on them. However that cant be to much and varies with blade thickness. The tilt on the top wheel is really only there to adjust for blade stretch and wheel wear. They will almost always want a crown machined into the rubber.
Well if that doesnt confuse you the Dementia hasnt taken full hold yet.
Great to see some Hylomar in use as well, its highly underrated. It was the only thing that kept my Valiant head gaskets from leaking back in the day.
Cheers
Thanks for the tips. The wheels have crown machined in the aluminium, so the polyeurathane follows that.
I only just sent it now. Glad they will finally be put to some good use now that that is all sorted. Next I need to cut some similar gears for myself. Will be a good opportunity to try out the dro and cylindrical grinder.
Get in contact with Emil and see if he can Plasma nitride your gears as well.
Found out that a friend of a friend of a friend has a heat treat oven I’ll see if that’s a viable option fist. Did you get my email?
@@LCalleja Cool. I need to make another oven.
I got it and responded. Did you get my response?
@@RotarySMPI also would like to make one but it’s not very high up on the list. Didn’t get your reply wonder what’s going on
Congratulations! So nice to get something bothersome off the list. All the best. Off to do my projects.
Thanks Vince. Go for it :)
re: the lower wheel, the received wisdom in the woodworking world is to make sure the wheels are co-planar, using a straightedge and the lower wheel as reference (since the upper wheel tilts). You'll often find one wheel is in a plane fore or aft of the other, and you can use shims/washers to move one of the wheels forward (or remove washers to move one back). Your lower wheel might be too far back leading to the blade tracking forward.
Good points. I just bumped the lower wheel onto the shaft, but without any specific position to aim for. I need to do a more systematic set up.
The bottom wheel on a band saw isn't usually adjustable for tilt, Inca bandsaws perhaps unusually have the blade running on the front of the wheels not the crown, position back & forth on the lower wheel is controlled by moving the rear blade tracking roller or whatever back & forth starting with the bottom one (top one fully retracted initially).
Thanks for that. I need to systematically go through an review the whole set up.
I was just coming here to say the same thing. I’d start with backing the blade guides all the way off and see where it runs on the bottom wheel.
Good. It looks like from now on it will "DoAll" of it again.
Hi Michel, yeah finally it is a real saw again.
@RotarySMP I think your blade should run on the front edge of the wheel. Like every woodworking bandsaw. This counteracts the tendency to jump at the back. Mind you, the coplanareity of the two wheels might be off a smidge. Since the blade sat nicely on the bottom wheel. Pretty sure there is a manual for your machine somewhere.
That would make sense, but I checked the DoALL manual, and they want it on the middle of the crown.
great work thanks for the video
Thanks for the kind feedback Chad.
On my 14" bandsaw. I just added some washers so the balde ran centrally on the bottom wheel. Dont know if thats the correct way of doing it but worked for me
Thanks Peter. Doesn't it make the blade pull fwd in the lower blade guide as well?
@RotarySMP yes I adjusted the lower blade guide to suit
@@petersilva4242 Good to know. Thanks for that.
On the bandsaws I’ve owned they had to be tracked so the teeth were just off the front edge of the tyre- my understanding is to prevent tyre damage from the teeth. It will be interspersed to see what the DoAll manual advises. With the top wheel vertical ( i.e. no tracking adjustment applied ] it should be in the same plane as the lower wheel just as you would align two pulleys. Adjust the lower wheel position on the shaft to suit & use packing washers as required. Great repair and improvements. I’m in the process of making a new fence for my DeWalt 738 as the one supplied is useless.
Probably not the official method, but what I used to do is adjust the tracking on the upper tire and then adjust the blade support ball bearing on the blade guide which controlled the fore and aft position of the blade at the table, and iterate until I had it centered on the lower tire.
I need to see what adjustments the DoAll has.
Nice to see the Rotring drawing board! I used an A3 one for many years, until it broke in half. The replacemetn had the same latch on the ruler as yours, but I found the older one with a squarer design was much easier to use : I could use the side of my hand to position in the "Y", but the button one I had to press in with a finger ...
I had one of these at high school. It is probably still at my parents place. I bought this one in a flash of nostalia about 10 years ago :)
@MrLampbus We had British Thornton drawing boards, really rather nice, A2 I think, flat wooden board, used to hold the paper on with spring steel clips. When I decided to do Tech Drawing for my O Levels, my parents bought me my own B T board and instruments for my 14th birthday. The board is still around, but the instruments vanished in a house move years ago. I did a college course for AutoCAD 10 for DOS, eventually started using AutoCAD LT, never went back to pencil and paper. I am currently having extreme difficulty getting my head around Solidworks, for the 3D printer.
@@billdoodson4232 I learned CAD with AutoCad 13, some Inventor, then CATIA V4 and V5, before moving to Onshape and and now Freecad. I think Onshape and Inventor were the simplest to learn.
@RotarySMP I could do with easy, my almost 70 year old head doesn't pick things up like it used to. I'll get there with it, just taking longer than it should.
I had stern words with the last pair of apprentices I had working for me. "Don't get fat. Don't get old." I see them on Facebook, neither has got fat like me, but they disobeyed by getting older.
@@billdoodson4232 Hi Bill, yeah, I am also noticing at 54 that I dont learn as fast, or retain as well as I once did.
A thing of beauty is a joy for ever:
Its loveliness increases; it will never
Pass into nothingness; but still will keep
A bower quiet for us, and a sleep
Full of sweet dreams, and health, and quiet breathing.
Thanks for the poetic response. :)
My DoAll 1612 is tracking the same as yours, with no guides in. I have shimmed the gearbox, and that helped. I have shimmed the frame as suggested in the manual. That did nothing. I changed the tires, did not help. Got busy with other things but will look at it again soon. It can't be anything else but alignment.
Thanks for the feedback on that Darren. I received the manual yesterday, and will take a more systematic look at it.
Glad you noticed :)
I think you got it.....
Yeah, seems to stay in gear now.
To check the tracking on the bottom wheel, i would completely back away the blade guides. If the blade guide pushes the blade towards the user, the bottom tracking can´t be fixed by the top adjustment. On my cheap chinese bandsaw, i set the tracking without the blade guides in contact, then move the guides to where the blade wants to live. Never dropped a blade off the wheels.
Good idea. I'll take a look at that.
Hello Mark - there were shims fitted to the gearbox when I disassembled my DoAll. They appeared to establish the center of the lower wheel crown with respect to, say, the blade guides. It didn’t occur to me that they might not have been all the same thickness, meaning I didn’t discover whether they were influencing tilt. 🤔
Thanks Doric. Good data point.
@ request FaceTime at your convenience
I'll get back to you.
Awesome, really pleased that you have got the gearbox fixed. It’s been a thorn in your side. Was a big job really. Welll lots of small jobs making a bigger headache. All done now tho.
Yeah, I thought it would be a trilogy, but took 10 videos to sort it out :)
Congrats on the better than new gear box. It's better than new, because now you know exactly how it works and are able to make / order parts for it, as needed. I need to make one of those drawing tablets... my drawing board is a piece of foam core that I put on top of my welding table, and then I just use a square against the side of the foam core.
Happy Sunday... was feeling ... well disappointed in my fellow americans recently. Thanks for posting ... I need the distraction. =D
You are not alone. 😐
Thanks Mike. Those Rotring boards come up all the time of the classifieds here. I bought this one about 10 years ago in a burst of nostalgia :)
I like the music🎉
Thanks for the feedback on that.
Super!😊
Thanks Johannes.
At 4:24 I think you need to dedicate a future episode to fixing your shoe. 😀
Hi Stuart, I am concerned that these shoes may not last for the entire duration of this channel :)
You might consider making something from titanium... one for the sparks fans. Great work as usual.
Thanks. I am titanium curious :)
Im guessing heat didn't work on the super glue because the aluminum expanded from the heat more than the steel, turing the fit from clearance to interference
Could be right there.
You didn't look to put much tension on the blade in your tests. When I was working we had bandsaw problems so got the blade rep in. He had a blade tension gauge and showed that we were not putting anywhere near enough tension on the blade - with the large machines (25 & 32 mm wide blades) we used he showed that even with the tensioner wound up to the maximum the blade could not be overtensioned. Correctly tensioning the blade largely stopped the blades coming of the wheels in use and also largely sorted issues with straightness of cut and blade wandering. You might get a blade supplier rep to visit you if you asked nicely to do such a check, though IIRC Model Engineer's Workshop magazine have run an article in the last year or so on how to build & calibrate a blade tension gauge.
Thanks for the tip. I have a feeling DoAll had a suggestion to tension to a specific musical note when you pluck the rear section of blade. I need to check for that.
glad to see that problem fixed:) grate vid as always
Hi Luke, do you have a email problem? I got an error from your account.
Not that I know of at least was just sending you one now by coincidence:) guess we see it that works
@@LCalleja Not received yet, but I will let you know.
By the way, huge thanks for making those gears. It is nice to finally use them as they are supposed to work :)
I sent you a test email. No failure notice back.
Mark, that little drafting pad is awesome where did you get it and do you know if they are still available? 👍👍
Rotring profile drawing boards are still made in A4 (letter) and A3 (double that) sizes.
amzn.to/40BdtUZ
Over here, there are always dozens of them for sale, used, in the classifieds.
Another success👍x100
Thanks Ken.
Looks to me like the lower wheel is not on the same plane as the upper wheel. Instead of shimming the gear box to get them on the same plane, place washers on the shaft between the wheel and gear box.
Good point. I'll measure it.
Did you put a shaped aperture in the camera just to get the heart bokeh on the Clarkson?
I went to the Coldplay concert in summer, and they give everyone "3D" like glasses with diffraction grids which turn spectral highlights into hearts. I knew exactly what they would be used for :)
Im tempted to play the "recognize the plane", is it a320fam #2 pack inlet? 😅
Good spotting :)
I have the same bandsaw.
Now I what will go wrong in my saw
Keep an eye on angular play of the lower wheel. If it gets too much movement, your intershaft bushing is slogged out. That was the start of this saws troubles.
I admit that sidewheeling with such a thin wheel would make me nervous, particularly with such a marginal guard.
I was cutting on the outer edge, rather than infeeding in to the side of that wheel.
🤞
Thanks Joel.
Nice going Mark, no major fuckups this week.
Thanks Willem. That is an unexpected change :)
2:23 - no dust catching for that- i hope you were wearing a respirator!
I did.
Àdjust the top trackingthere should be no issue at the bottom with crowned tires.
Hi Jim, I have the top adjusted to me centered, but the bottom one as running too far fwd.
@RotarySMP The top has tension and tilt.
You shouldn't worry about the bottom tracking forward unless it's coming off when you relax the cut.
Is there a backup bearing on the lower guide? Does it rub, spinning the guide constantly?
Really, it's a better situation than having the teeth eating the tire.
@@jimurrata6785 Good points Jim. I need to do a more systematic survey, and make sure all the guides, backing bearings etc are correctly adjusted.
@RotarySMP top tracking should easily bring the blade back on the lower wheel, but as I said it's better to have the 'heel' tracking on the crown.
While I don't have a DoAll I've been using woodworking bandsaws since the mid '70's and had one with a low range that I often used on metal.
Tension is important too. If yours has a spring scale be certain that spring hasn't sacked (I usually pluck the free side of the blade and listen to the pitch)
Now that it is working you're going to find many uses and wonder how you did without it! 👍
@@jimurrata6785 Hi Jim, I also think there was once a Doall suggestion for a specific musical note when the tension was correct.
Why no safety wire for the nut?
Which nut?
the nut on the fork
@@LongnoseRob It was quicker to just stake it :)
Have you seen the soft jaws project from "Inheritance Machining"?
Not yet. I'll check it out.
@@RotarySMP th-cam.com/video/r34WUDab244/w-d-xo.html
Nice footwear😂😂😂
Thanks. I hope they will last another year or two :)
“Finished” 😂
Yeah, what is ever finished :)
Just watched world War Z yesterday and saw that the passenger plane had a limb in the floor with a extendable latter from the cockpit and was wondering if it's actually true/if they have one or if it's just some Hollywood movie stuff/trick. And I figured. Who is better to ask about that then my mate mark
Limb in the floor? Not sure what you mean there.
Most of the larger Boeings have a hatch near the entry door, down into the main electronics compartment. There is also a door from the MEC through into fwd cargo. Most airlines just put the vinyl floor over the hatch, as pilots are never going to go in there and there is little they could do anyway.
@@RotarySMP ment a hatch ( damn google translate. couldnt remember the word at that point in time so used google ) sorrt for the confusion
i just say that there was also a extending latter that extended all the way down to the takeoff/landing field where they crawl up and iwas woundering if that part actually exist or just something they came up with ( like magically had it so they could get them on the plane )
th-cam.com/video/XcubpWgI_dg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=kinobscura around the 1:26 mark
@@flikflak24 Maybe the 747 has a built in ladder. The 777/767/757 dont, so you use a maintenance stand. that was an Airbus A310 in the movie, an I am not sure what their config is.
But there is the E&E bay maintenance access hatch just behind the nose landing gear, which gets you into that main electronic equipment bay, and then if the airline kept the hatch exposed (Boeing), you could get up into the fwd galley area. It doesn't go into the cockpit, and it is not as simple as hollywood made it look.
@@RotarySMP so it was basicly hollywood magic with that plane. specially since in the movie the latter came down from infront of the landing gear and not behind it
thanks for clearing my woundering m8
Heh, heh. Aluminium expands more than steel
It does.
i wonder if the lathe and mill are 'single phase capable' like the haas tm-1 and tl-1 (toolroom-mill/lathe)...
the [new gen.] boeing workers were striking over a month at Everett and finally accepted a contract after costing boeing $6+billion...they wanted a pension which not even the usps postal service does anymore....as if they're in 1965 or are federal employees...they would say boeing is too cheap after acquired from bill boeing and family by corporate conglomerate which is also true: skipped bldg. maintenance, sub'd flight software to india and also the electronics which are key components and led to the crashes that crashed the stock they tried to and did, max out for awhile.
Three phase is common here, so we dont really have those single phase concerns. The lathe would just need the motor jumpered from 400 to 240, and the VFD would probably be fine. The Variator needs 3Ph. The drives I installed are already single phase.
The mill would need more extensive modification.
21:09 oil leak spotted
There is a gasket between that cover and the housing, with Hylomar on all sides. So far, the gearbox is dry outside after about 48 hours installed.
I pray to the Lord that you will find success with this gearbox. Amen. Sucess would not be possible without our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. Greeting from usa.
I think it will work fine with simple mechanics , Jeremy :)
I love machining channels but I noticed most of them end up spending more time fixing their machines than actually making projects with their machines. I got into your channel when you were building the camera dolley
It is certainly a danger. A new saw of the quality of the DoAll would be out of my price range, but it has taken more repair than I hope to get it working this well.
i heard there was going to be a grinding wheel in a dress… i am disappointed.
Oh well, sorry to disappoint :)
You may have to shim the gearbox to match the guides/upper blade wheel as shown in the instruction manual. Also, mine has a spacer/shim behind the lower blade wheel as shown in the parts manual. I've got parts and instruction manuals if you're interested.
Hi Steven, which model is yours? Mine is a 16"-SPF. I would appreciate a scan of the manual please. My Email is on the channel about page.
@@RotarySMP Mine is also an 16-SFP.
Happy to help out.
Success !
I imagine that you have already done so , Find one of the many online how to set up your bandsaw guides
even one for wood saws would do
Found this one by Grizzly tools on youtube
How To: Bandsaw Tracking and Coplanar Setup and Adjustment
Thanks for the link.