Hi Drew. Thanks for including us in your comparison. In order to achieve full stain resistance with Osmo it is advisable to roll or brush the finish onto the surface and allow it to dry without buffing away the excess. White pads and rags apply the finish very thinly, and so 2-3 coats using this method will leave behind a fraction of the finish versus 2-coats with a brush or a roller. This means reduced stain resistance as you have found here. Bear in mind Osmo is designed to be rolled and brushed to achieve the highest durability. So to improve the stain resistance we'd suggest to roll or brush two coats onto the surface and allowing the finish to dry (do not wipe the finish off). After the second coat has dried, you can lightly scuff sand the surface with a maroon pad or P320 grit and buff in 1-2 coats using the method you used in this video. Once done and cured, you should find that the Osmo has at least 24-hour resistance to the liquids you placed on the surface. Hope this helps
Hey thanks for getting in touch. I’ll try the method outlined above and reupload the video if there’s a discernible difference! Also I’d consider updating your application instructions on your website to something clearer like this because I read them about 5 times to make sure I was doing it right and have seen many videos of people applying the same way on here. Thanks!
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks Hi CS. Thanks for your feedback. Our comments were us describing how to achieve full durability with our product. Two coats with a cloth will not achieve full durability as shown in the video and so we addressed it. We could honestly speak all day and use a lot more than 250 words on wood finishing, it’s a whole trade! We’re sorry that turns you off, but you do you 😅
I like Drew’s method along with others, eg Matt Estlea’s. It appears there’s some confusion with practicality, aesthetics vs lab experiments. Getting rid of the brush and roller is the only reason I was remotely interested in Osmo in lieu of Rubio. Hopefully this informs the Osmo marketing department alongside the chemical engineers when designing this product. Thanks for sharing Drew. Subscribed.
Yeah.... nah.. Apply with roller and leave. I tried this numerous times and it leaves way to many noticeable lines, not a smooth finish at all.. finally ended up sanding the piece back and changing to Rubio.
@@andrewgrant1814 Hi Andrew, You need to use a 4mm microfibre roller and to roll as thinly as the roller allows. If you are leaving lines, it means your roller is too saturated. If any roughness develops, it can be sanded lightly with P320 before applying a subsequent coat. Hope this helps.
Great video! I love my Odie's! My favorite approach is to sand to 400/500 grit for semi gloss , apply one coat of Odie's followed by wood butter or 2 coats of Odie's - and is totally bullet proof! my countertops after one year still look amazing, I had some small scratches but were easily spot repaired! Now my new favorites are the Odie's stains, omg what a game changer, especially for wood floors or outdoor projects- you get the maximum UV protection!
Nice video. The only thing I wish you added was after your scratch test comparison, if you applied another coat of each product to see how well they repair the damage on both sides of the boards.
Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison. It was great. I too like to use Rubio. I’ve had zero problems or complaints and it is so easy to apply.
Fantastic video. I just subscribed. Note that with Odie's oil, you can easily add a coat of Odie's hard wax on top of the oil. It provides more protection than the oil alone.
One benefit to Odies (those of us who don’t have a proper wood shop) is that it can be applied and especially reapplied indoors- in situ if you will- if needs be to larger furniture pieces.
im a table maker and sometimes finished legs end up getting moved around more than you would ideally want them to. with odies as a finish, no biggie. just take a cloth that has barely any product on it, voila back to perfect showroom finish.
I just finished a wine cabinet with odies oil. So far, I love it. I liked being able to go gloveless and maskless. However as much as I love it, putting it on a large’ish cabinet was a lot of effort to say the least. Just take off your shirt and flex. Because those circular motions will get you jacked. I’ve also used tried and true on bathroom cabinets and I love it. But, be very warned. If you put on even a micron extra, it can take days to dry. The finished result is smooth and spectacular, but I made 3 cabinets. One was ready in a day, another a day and a half. Another was 5 day wait. However I left them outside, it randomly rained (summer in California. Unheard of) and they all got soaked. But the tried and true had set enough that I wiped it right off. No issues at all. So larger things. I might stick with tried and true because of its simplicity. But that odies oil is pleasant. You just gotta have some time and elbow grease. Ps. I plan(Ned) on using Osmo. But randomly it got banned where I live. But I can drive 30 miles west and it’s allowed. So, that’s stupid. But, California buddy. Welcome! Ps. What killed that fly 12 minutes into the video? You. The finishes? The gases? Is that part of the test? This finish will kill flies?
I'm using Odie's and Rubio at the moment. I wanted to try osmo, but am glad I caught this video B4 I invested in it. Sticking to the other 2. Mahalo for sharing. Great informative video. Gluck in all u do.
Of the three, I have only used Odie’s Oil. However, I have had very good results applying two coats of Velvit Oil, (food safe after it drys and similar to Minwax Antique Oil), which is a penetrating oil. After it has dried thoroughly, I apply Odie’s oil per manufacturer’s directions. Velvit Oil provides deeper protection and visually pops the grain out and Odie’s Oil gives a nice sheen and better surface protection.
I just started using Odies. I saw they have a super penetrating version. In the Odie video I watched, they said to mix a little of their safer solvent with the super penetrating to get a very deep penetration into the wood. I haven't tried it, but I saw your comment on liking Odies and figured I would share this info.
Great video!!!...one test I might recommend is a cup of hot liquid...pretty common around dining tables. I'm getting ready to take off a nitro lac finish on a big bubinga dining table-deep scratches, milky clouds from hot items. Love the look and feel of the finishes you presented...perhaps wear and tear and the inevitable refinish is just part of the program...Thanks again for a great video
I've used Odie's on the past few projects I've done, namely a coffee table. I'm very pleased with how easily it goes on and how durable it is (i sometimes spill or forget coasters and the surface still looks brand new). I'm thinking about switching to Rubio as my main finish because I think I like the sheen a little more and I think there's a lot more versatility in the color than with Odie's. This video was certainly helpful in deciding if it makes sense to switch between finishes or just stick with one.
Thanks for the answer to the question right in beginning: The best smelling Odie's is the way to go ... A scent of any product will accompany tabletop for years...
This is the best comparison video I have ever seen regarding any product on TH-cam…..period. I bought the Odie’s Oil to refinish a heart pine countertop in my kitchen based on the fact that we use this countertop as a “bar” and open bottles of red wine on it and according to your video…it has the most stain resistance. I can say that I DO NOT LIKE the look of the finish…it is very dark and matte. From now on….I will use pure 100 percent Tung Oil in my kitchen and bath where surfaces are constantly exposed to water and other liquids. It’s just the best and I have never had any issues with it….Give it a try (maybe another video idea?). However, based on your video….I bought Rubio and will use this product from now on for all my furniture. SUBSCRIBED and Binge watching all of your videos.
I’ve used Tung oil on a variety of wood pieces and also on polished and hard troweled concrete. What I’ve found is that doing a few coats of Tung Oil mixed with turpentine or citrus oil at 50/50 enables the oil to penetrate and then for the surface to get a substantially better protective seal. Have you had success with just pure Tung? And have the pieces had spills and chemical stressors?
I am in process of refinishing my very large redwood deck and redwood built in furniture. After having refinished my teak furniture last spring with marine spar varnish that eventually failed in only 6 months ( cracking, peeling and general dried out looking wood) i refinished it with 1 coat of odies. It seems to have worked better and made the teak look really good again. I have already sanded the large built in redwood furniture, 80 grit to get rid of old finish. I also removed old finish on one of the large steps up to the deck and have applied 1 coat of odies to both. They both look really good. The natural redwood color has replaced the unattractive stained finish that had been on them. It was a very fake reddish stain and whatever was used only 2 years ago when I bought the home. It looked OK when I first moved in, but did not age well. It was supposed to be one of the selling points that the very large decks had just been redone! So I am hoping that the odies will hold up much better and protect the redwood. I have used odies in my kitchen on my 6×6 kitchen island butcherblock top and it has held up really well despite all of the kitchen abuse. I chose it because of the non toxic quality. I have also refinished multiple large chopping boards and surfaces with odies for same reason. They have held up really well. They give me confidence that odies will work outside.
I use odie's oil and absolutely love it I have all of their products. If you really want a durable finish. So if you use the odie's oil then the wood butter and the wax as a 3 step process you will have a very durable finish. I would use it on any hardwood floor. I love the way it smells and love the fact you don't have to have a respirator or gloves. I didn't have to build a spray booth or get a respirator. Just make sure to read the instructions and use as directed and it will work as described.
Watched because a friend has been talking to me about Osmo which I haven’t used. Odies products have been my go to for years regardless of type of wood or other product finishing. Really great common sense and unbiased review of the products you have here - I’m familiar with Rubio but haven’t used in years. Glad to see my Odies holds up to others. Next project I’m gonna try Rubio again and see if I wanna go back there Probably will ask my buddy to watch this video before continuing to use Osmo on tables Very well done!
I always use LIVOS and I never had any of these issues especially after 2 or 3 coats, no marks and nice sheen 👌+ I've been told they are real food safe oils bc 100% natural, works great, I would recommend.
🏆 Impressive comparison ☝️ Particularly liked the scratch tests on both the wood & epoxy. Many videos on applying, but few show the durability under practical conditions. Really appreciate this one Look forward to seeing more of the channel 👍
Thank you for such a useful video - it serves as both illustration of application and as a very reasonable product comparison. Producing something like this takes a LOT of time. It is very much appreciated. [and +1 for the music]
For ease of application and the added ability to achieve protection at higher grits, Odie’s wins hands down. You get more for less coats. There no mixing of two parts, and no need for rollers or brushes as well. I like that I can sand to 1000 and still get gain penetration. This becomes even more evident when using dark or super duper. The one thing I don’t care for is how it changes the shades of lighter woods. For Maple and lighter woods, I prefer Rubio. It’s worth the extra labor required to mitigate the yellowing that I tend to get with either Odie’s or Osmo. Osmo is my least favorite. I don’t care how it is applied, water still affects it more than the other two.
I had students put together a live edge walnut coffee table. We used Ice Epoxy for the river and Rubio Monocoat Pure for the finish. Because of your video (and a couple of others), we did scuff either a burgundy pad and reapply a 2nd coat. Thanks for the tips!
thabks so much for the effort you put into the video. I am a newbie and seeling Odies examples before I spend half a stack on that jar. love that you selaed something other than wood also.
Great video, I would like to point out that osmo has a 2-3week true cure time according to their tds, and running tests before that time does kinda smudge your durability test results. You are supposed to really baby what it's applied to during that cure window
Only sand for Rubio up to 120. It leaves the pores more open and allows better penetration, which gives better protection. Also using a squeegee to apply it on will allow it to absorb better (it’s akin to using a trowel for sheetrock mud or plaster), as a white pad/cloth/rag will absorb more than the wood, making it difficult for the wood to absorb all it can. Then use a white pad to work it in and ensure an even coat. Use a cloth/rag to remove the excess as it’ll more efficiently do so due to said absorption and will smooth over perfectly on the epoxy. For a second coat, some will say to gently go over it with 240, wipe down, and apply. I’ve had great success with simply wiping down and applying, the chatoyance it’ll bring out in walnut is simply stunning, like nothing else can achieve.
I'm glad you had the same results as me, the Osmo is completely a waste of money, I had issues with water damage on multiple clients workpieces, contacted Osmo customer service and got zero help, I had to sand the product off and choose another finish, I don't understand how this product is sold as a floor finish as IMO it's rubbish.
great video. I use 2 of these products, mostly with black walnut, sometimes even in combination. This was an excellent side by side comparison. Doing these kinds of tests can really provide useful info
Would you mind elaborating a bit on how you combine them and in what order? I was thinking about the very same thing, wondering whether one could get the best of both - or all three - worlds by doing so...
Thanks for doing this! I'm making a Sapele table for someone and want to use a natural finish so was thinking of trying Odie's oil. I was hoping to find a comparison of other oils so really appreciate the effort you put into demonstrating results of three brands.
I just completed a rift-cut white oak kitchen (cabinets) with Rubio's 5% Smoke. My first time using and I love it. I only sanded to 100 grit (per Rubio instruction) and water-popped before application. 100 grit would be too harsh for cherry, for example, but on the white oak it was a perfect grit. With a 2nd coat of Rubio's the sheen evens out and is flat but not dull. I also used Rubio's on cherry stair treads for a boat. Looks fantastic. I have used Odies (on a walnut river table) but the finish is too dull for my taste.
Thank you Drew for an excellent video. I have subscribed. There are many “experts” demonstrating different methods of applying OSMO. They do not include tests for stain resistance, nor mention of total amount of solids deposited with each technique. They only comment on final finish. Some of these “experts” appear to be blatant influencers, despite their strident declarations that they are independent. The OSMO motto “thin to win” obviously contributes to poor stain resistance, so should be reviewed. Perhaps “enough for tough” might be more apt. I will try the OSMO microfibre rollers. I presume wrapping the rollers up in lunch wrap plastic will be the best way to store between coats. The OSMO expert could comment please, as well as cleaning rollers. I found OSMO comments very helpful, thank you.
I’ve used Rubios and Odies and much prefer Odies. The biggest difference is having to mix Rubios with the activator. Unless you’ve used it a lot, it’s hard to gauge how much to mix and you end up wasting a lot. Odies is also thicker, which helps you apply it more evenly.
I haven't used the others and I plan to try them, but as far as Osmo, it does continue to harden for quite a while (like 3-5 weeks, I think), and will hold up much better at that point.
I can't thank you enough for this video! I am having some white oak pieces built for my new kitchen and these 3 products were the contenders for finishing...I was going to go with Osmo, but now think I'll try Odie's.
Really cool test the only thing I would say is the Osmo oil was not properly applied, I have done may liquid tests with the polyx Oil on hardwood floors, furniture and never had water marks even leaving water on for 24 hours and not a blemish.
beautiful video!! the only thing I would have added is that Odies Oil is certified for contact with food and you could apply it without protection, but in fact the components are not known.
I use Odies and it works great. I don’t know if you are supposed to use it over a stain but I do. I’m going to try their dark oils and see how that works. Thanks for the testing.
I haven’t used Rubio or Otey’s but have played around with Osmo trying the thin build up over three coats at first and now I trowel it on or roll it and let it soak in for an hour and then give it a buff with a rag. Two coats max depending on application. Trowel for sheets of ply pre cutting/assembly. Roller for second coat post assembly.
Yeah ive been playing with osmo a bit still trying to find the perfect application because it does look great. But the other two are impossible to mess up application which is nice for most quicker jobs
i called odies and asked them about highest level of protection. to acheive highest level of protection apply three products in this order. 1. super penetrating oil 2. odies oil 3. odies wax
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this comparison. Recently a friend asked me what I was using. I decided to research since I’d picked Odie’s on a whim rather than information. I’ve been using Odie’s and based on this demo, I may still use Odie’s as I’m a huge fan of that smooth, smooth wood. I’m curious why you didn’t compare Walrus - is that because they’re meant primarily for cutting boards vs. furniture or general wood projects? I’m only asking because I’ve watch another two, maybe three videos on this subject and they didn’t use Walrus either. Again, thanks for taking the time, and hopefully for your reply to my Q.
It's not apples to apples but I recently tried the Osmo 2K for a speaker cabinet restoration. I used the Rubio last spring on a cabinet build. Overall I greatly preferred the Osmo 2K to the Rubio. Even using the recommended Rubio Maintenance Oil I never got the finish I wanted. Conversely, the Osmo 2K has a better sheen, better coverage, and dries much faster.
Osmo is a killer product, and I have yet to see the need for more than one coat. Three seems like a complete waste, but to each their own! Just wrapped up my first project with Rubio and I can say it in fact does NOT need a second coat when applied heavy enough and with buffing after it’s specified time.
just started using odies and am put off by the other two. i think if you are making something to give or sell to some else it needs a finish anyone can maintain without needing a lot of time or money. odies goes on just like a wax and can be fixed just by applying wax because most people aren't going to go pay 50 bucks for a can of odies just to use once in a blue moon. i've used it on a tabletop i've made and used regular waxes anyone would use over it on furniture and it buffs out nice every time. i've tried some other finishes like poly, etc., before but some of them once they get scratched or a hot liquid spilled on them that's it, there's nothing you can do but sand and reapply and most people aren't going to want to do that.
Thanks for the video. Looking at all 3 of these. I used Odies on my last project sanded to 400, found the finish a bit too dull. I know they say you can sand to 2000 or something crazy, liked the application but too dull. Looking Rubio and Osmo, I appreciate the additional info from Osmo on applying and leaving full coats buff and top coat. Ill definitely try that and rubio on some future projects. Great comparisons
@@DrewBuildsStuff I wonder if a second coat of Odies' with their wood butter or wax would have brought out more of sheen and provided even more protection. Seems like it would have been a more fair comparison since Odie's was the only one that had a single coat.
I have sanded up to 1200 and then applied Odie's Oil. Buffed after a few hours then applied Odie's wax. I did this twice. The finish was like glass. Seriously worth experimenting with Odie's.
I have had quite a bit of experience using odies oil. I find the dull finishes are sometimes from not wiping all the excess oil off. I usually do an initial wipe (2-3 hours after application) and then come back 30-45 minutes later and wipe with a dry towel again. The multiple wipe downs have proven to be beneficial. I also sand to 600 grit on wood/1000 grit wet sand rivers, which gives a glassier look. My 2 cents
I think cheesecloth would be a good thing to use to smooth on the finish. The Odie board was the best looking of all, I love the wood grain. I use a cutting board oil on my boards about once a month or so, to prevent them from drying out obviously lol. I have a couple of Paderno boards, so I take care of them. Your videos are so professional looking. Well done!!
Hello Drew, nice video! Can you try comparing oldies and livos? You have already used Livos for your exterior sauna finish and the interior, Livos makes a natural linseed oil for countertops and butcherblocks. It would be a nice video.
Hey, It'd be interesting to repeat the experiment w/ everything sanded down to the same grit, maybe remove the dust w/ some mineral spirits and an air gun for safe keeping. That extra sanding on the Odie's would have most likely filled some of the pores.
My experience with the Osmo wood wax finish (colored version) is that it wears too much in high-use situations like tables or benches. I used a darker Osmo wood wax finish in mahogany on a table and bench and after only a few uses the color is wearing away in areas where fabric touches it.
For an invincible clear finish, use 2 part epoxy, followed by several whisper thin coats of Epifanes High Gloss Marine varnish. It will survive in water, even full sun, and take a beating on the surface.
Nice stuff; methodical and organized. I appreciated the comparison, and that you went with the manufacturer directions precisely. Should you want to branch out, on my dining table I used Osmo Poly-X and took a page from a boatbuilder friend - I used a French polish technique, using a high-grit wet-sand paper and then buffing the slurry into the wood. Repeated several times - 4 or 5 coats perhaps? That table has been through a lot and doesn’t soak in any liquids. I love the hand of Osmo. But based on your video I’m going to try some Rubio on a project soon. Cheers -
I have a bathroom vanity top made of spalted beech. I used Osmo Wood protector 4006, this gives extra water resistance then two layers of Osmo top oil. Its there 4 years with water on it daily and its now starting to look like it needs another coat of top oil. I don't seem to have issues you have with Osmo. Not sure if you get the Osmo Wood protector 4006 in the US.
Wondered for a sec if this video was sponsored by Captain Morgan! 😆 I've been looking into hardwax oils for my old red oak floors, cause the application process looks so much easier than poly and I like the look more in any case. Thanks for this video! The liquids test especially helped me see what I could expect with one of these finishes long-term.
Very good video, thank you, and u have a new sub. One question though, you concluded that you preferred Rubio because of it's ease of use, but it looked easier to apply Odies. What did I miss...or misunderstand?
Enjoyed the video, thanks! Got a lot of info out of these comments, too. Love the look of Osmo, but it’s hard to swallow the time it takes - I could get past it for the initial finishing job, but it seems like it’d be the same story to touch up later, too. Gonna have a look at those ceramics I saw you mention that could go over Rubio.
Thanks so much for posting. I have a house that is 1 year old and the floors are done with Rubio pure. I have a big family and a lot of cooking and traffic. The guy who did them said to wait 2 years, but I know they need a refresher, and there are area in the kitchen where it’s looking really dingy and dry. I use wood soap every 4-6 weeks, unless my grandkids come and then it’s more often. There are stained areas that I believe I should use tannin cleaner on. Question is, do I use pure again or universal oil to refresh floors? Or something altogether different? Also what is the best way to apply and then remove? Can I leave areas (like under a rug) alone, or should I do entire floor? If grain is raised a bit in areas do I need to sand? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
Have just discovered Rubio's on another channel and, having used Osmo for years, was about to send off for a Rubio sample. I appreciate the care and detail of your review, thank you. (PS - could I suggest you dial the music back a bit on your next video as I found it almost drowned your voice.)
Yeah definitely try it out it’s impossible to mess up which is awesome for 90% of jobs and looks amazing. Yes I’ve been trying to keep the music down lately. Thanks for watching!
Hi Drew have you thought about making some wall art with those pieces..the light coming through them is cool..maybe a box design with internal backlight installed..would look very nice on the wall
How are these products different than wiping varnish? Arm R Seal offers better protection and offers the look of tung oil. I can understand the Rubio way with one coat in a day vs 3 coats in 3 days with ARS.
odies is a plant based hardwax oil. it does not have harsh chemicals. not sure about the others. but hardwax oils act like the tung oil, they fill the pores of the wood. arm r seal is polyurethane which is essentially thin layers of plastic material to make a coating. poly becomes much harder and more durable than these finishes. but the hardwax oils are a finish that give you a more nautral and close to the wood appeal.
Perfect video all the way around! Thank you! I was already sold on Rubio but I want to try Odies now! Could you do a follow up video of how hard (or hopefully easy) it is to retouch each finish? Damage happens, the ability to repair is *almost* more important than the application! Subscribed for more! 👍
Odies is extremely easy to repair. Just apply another coat the same way as the first. No need to sand or strip. You can apply as many coats as you want until you get the desired sheen. Each coat will add more protection as well.
Have you had any experience with blackforestwood products ceramics finishing? I'd be very keen to see these 3 products overcoated with the BFW ceramics...
Im here because i keep getting rashes from the Rubio getting on my skin...2 weeks of itch isnt worth it for me. Apparently its the activator that causes it so i may just suck it up and use just raw finish and have the cure time longer. The difference between rubio and odies is so small i may experiment with odies to see what i think about it. I know others have gotten rashed from rubio as well so if you have sensitive skin be wary of using Rubio with the activator.
Odies is great stuff, their owners just don’t support small woodworkers in anyway so I found Walrus oil and other competitors that have the same product but none of the hatefulness
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Hi Drew. Thanks for including us in your comparison. In order to achieve full stain resistance with Osmo it is advisable to roll or brush the finish onto the surface and allow it to dry without buffing away the excess. White pads and rags apply the finish very thinly, and so 2-3 coats using this method will leave behind a fraction of the finish versus 2-coats with a brush or a roller. This means reduced stain resistance as you have found here. Bear in mind Osmo is designed to be rolled and brushed to achieve the highest durability. So to improve the stain resistance we'd suggest to roll or brush two coats onto the surface and allowing the finish to dry (do not wipe the finish off). After the second coat has dried, you can lightly scuff sand the surface with a maroon pad or P320 grit and buff in 1-2 coats using the method you used in this video. Once done and cured, you should find that the Osmo has at least 24-hour resistance to the liquids you placed on the surface. Hope this helps
Hey thanks for getting in touch. I’ll try the method outlined above and reupload the video if there’s a discernible difference! Also I’d consider updating your application instructions on your website to something clearer like this because I read them about 5 times to make sure I was doing it right and have seen many videos of people applying the same way on here. Thanks!
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks Hi CS. Thanks for your feedback. Our comments were us describing how to achieve full durability with our product. Two coats with a cloth will not achieve full durability as shown in the video and so we addressed it. We could honestly speak all day and use a lot more than 250 words on wood finishing, it’s a whole trade! We’re sorry that turns you off, but you do you 😅
I like Drew’s method along with others, eg Matt Estlea’s. It appears there’s some confusion with practicality, aesthetics vs lab experiments. Getting rid of the brush and roller is the only reason I was remotely interested in Osmo in lieu of Rubio. Hopefully this informs the Osmo marketing department alongside the chemical engineers when designing this product. Thanks for sharing Drew. Subscribed.
Yeah.... nah..
Apply with roller and leave. I tried this numerous times and it leaves way to many noticeable lines, not a smooth finish at all.. finally ended up sanding the piece back and changing to Rubio.
@@andrewgrant1814 Hi Andrew, You need to use a 4mm microfibre roller and to roll as thinly as the roller allows. If you are leaving lines, it means your roller is too saturated. If any roughness develops, it can be sanded lightly with P320 before applying a subsequent coat. Hope this helps.
Great video! I love my Odie's! My favorite approach is to sand to 400/500 grit for semi gloss , apply one coat of Odie's followed by wood butter or 2 coats of Odie's - and is totally bullet proof! my countertops after one year still look amazing, I had some small scratches but were easily spot repaired! Now my new favorites are the Odie's stains, omg what a game changer, especially for wood floors or outdoor projects- you get the maximum UV protection!
Nice video. The only thing I wish you added was after your scratch test comparison, if you applied another coat of each product to see how well they repair the damage on both sides of the boards.
Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison. It was great. I too like to use Rubio. I’ve had zero problems or complaints and it is so easy to apply.
Fantastic video. I just subscribed. Note that with Odie's oil, you can easily add a coat of Odie's hard wax on top of the oil. It provides more protection than the oil alone.
One benefit to Odies (those of us who don’t have a proper wood shop) is that it can be applied and especially reapplied indoors- in situ if you will- if needs be to larger furniture pieces.
im a table maker and sometimes finished legs end up getting moved around more than you would ideally want them to. with odies as a finish, no biggie. just take a cloth that has barely any product on it, voila back to perfect showroom finish.
I just finished a wine cabinet with odies oil. So far, I love it. I liked being able to go gloveless and maskless. However as much as I love it, putting it on a large’ish cabinet was a lot of effort to say the least. Just take off your shirt and flex. Because those circular motions will get you jacked.
I’ve also used tried and true on bathroom cabinets and I love it. But, be very warned. If you put on even a micron extra, it can take days to dry. The finished result is smooth and spectacular, but I made 3 cabinets. One was ready in a day, another a day and a half. Another was 5 day wait. However I left them outside, it randomly rained (summer in California. Unheard of) and they all got soaked. But the tried and true had set enough that I wiped it right off. No issues at all.
So larger things. I might stick with tried and true because of its simplicity. But that odies oil is pleasant. You just gotta have some time and elbow grease.
Ps. I plan(Ned) on using Osmo. But randomly it got banned where I live. But I can drive 30 miles west and it’s allowed. So, that’s stupid. But, California buddy. Welcome!
Ps.
What killed that fly 12 minutes into the video? You. The finishes? The gases? Is that part of the test? This finish will kill flies?
I use Osmo top oil for food surfaces. It does take 3 coats but it holds up great to everything I've thrown at it
This was one of, if not the best comparison video I've watched on the subject. Nice work!
I'm using Odie's and Rubio at the moment. I wanted to try osmo, but am glad I caught this video B4 I invested in it. Sticking to the other 2. Mahalo for sharing. Great informative video. Gluck in all u do.
Of the three, I have only used Odie’s Oil. However, I have had very good results applying two coats of Velvit Oil, (food safe after it drys and similar to Minwax Antique Oil), which is a penetrating oil. After it has dried thoroughly, I apply Odie’s oil per manufacturer’s directions. Velvit Oil provides deeper protection and visually pops the grain out and Odie’s Oil gives a nice sheen and better surface protection.
I just started using Odies. I saw they have a super penetrating version. In the Odie video I watched, they said to mix a little of their safer solvent with the super penetrating to get a very deep penetration into the wood. I haven't tried it, but I saw your comment on liking Odies and figured I would share this info.
Great video!!!...one test I might recommend is a cup of hot liquid...pretty common around dining tables. I'm getting ready to take off a nitro lac finish on a big bubinga dining table-deep scratches, milky clouds from hot items. Love the look and feel of the finishes you presented...perhaps wear and tear and the inevitable refinish is just part of the program...Thanks again for a great video
I've used Odie's on the past few projects I've done, namely a coffee table. I'm very pleased with how easily it goes on and how durable it is (i sometimes spill or forget coasters and the surface still looks brand new). I'm thinking about switching to Rubio as my main finish because I think I like the sheen a little more and I think there's a lot more versatility in the color than with Odie's. This video was certainly helpful in deciding if it makes sense to switch between finishes or just stick with one.
Thanks for the answer to the question right in beginning: The best smelling Odie's is the way to go ... A scent of any product will accompany tabletop for years...
This is the best comparison video I have ever seen regarding any product on TH-cam…..period. I bought the Odie’s Oil to refinish a heart pine countertop in my kitchen based on the fact that we use this countertop as a “bar” and open bottles of red wine on it and according to your video…it has the most stain resistance. I can say that I DO NOT LIKE the look of the finish…it is very dark and matte. From now on….I will use pure 100 percent Tung Oil in my kitchen and bath where surfaces are constantly exposed to water and other liquids. It’s just the best and I have never had any issues with it….Give it a try (maybe another video idea?). However, based on your video….I bought Rubio and will use this product from now on for all my furniture. SUBSCRIBED and Binge watching all of your videos.
I’ve used Tung oil on a variety of wood pieces and also on polished and hard troweled concrete. What I’ve found is that doing a few coats of Tung Oil mixed with turpentine or citrus oil at 50/50 enables the oil to penetrate and then for the surface to get a substantially better protective seal. Have you had success with just pure Tung? And have the pieces had spills and chemical stressors?
waterlox #1
Drew, now that it's summer I'd love to see you do a video, Search for the ultimate outdoor woodworking finish.
I am in process of refinishing my very large redwood deck and redwood built in furniture. After having refinished my teak furniture last spring with marine spar varnish that eventually failed in only 6 months ( cracking, peeling and general dried out looking wood) i refinished it with 1 coat of odies. It seems to have worked better and made the teak look really good again. I have already sanded the large built in redwood furniture, 80 grit to get rid of old finish. I also removed old finish on one of the large steps up to the deck and have applied 1 coat of odies to both. They both look really good. The natural redwood color has replaced the unattractive stained finish that had been on them. It was a very fake reddish stain and whatever was used only 2 years ago when I bought the home. It looked OK when I first moved in, but did not age well. It was supposed to be one of the selling points that the very large decks had just been redone! So I am hoping that the odies will hold up much better and protect the redwood. I have used odies in my kitchen on my 6×6 kitchen island butcherblock top and it has held up really well despite all of the kitchen abuse. I chose it because of the non toxic quality. I have also refinished multiple large chopping boards and surfaces with odies for same reason. They have held up really well. They give me confidence that odies will work outside.
@@bluedragonfly5 Can you reapply Odies in the future when you start seeing aging or wear and tear?
I use odie's oil and absolutely love it I have all of their products. If you really want a durable finish. So if you use the odie's oil then the wood butter and the wax as a 3 step process you will have a very durable finish. I would use it on any hardwood floor. I love the way it smells and love the fact you don't have to have a respirator or gloves. I didn't have to build a spray booth or get a respirator. Just make sure to read the instructions and use as directed and it will work as described.
Watched because a friend has been talking to me about Osmo which I haven’t used. Odies products have been my go to for years regardless of type of wood or other product finishing.
Really great common sense and unbiased review of the products you have here - I’m familiar with Rubio but haven’t used in years.
Glad to see my Odies holds up to others. Next project I’m gonna try Rubio again and see if I wanna go back there
Probably will ask my buddy to watch this video before continuing to use Osmo on tables
Very well done!
I always use LIVOS and I never had any of these issues especially after 2 or 3 coats, no marks and nice sheen 👌+ I've been told they are real food safe oils bc 100% natural, works great, I would recommend.
🏆 Impressive comparison ☝️
Particularly liked the scratch tests on both the wood & epoxy. Many videos on applying, but few show the durability under practical conditions. Really appreciate this one
Look forward to seeing more of the channel 👍
Thank you for such a useful video - it serves as both illustration of application and as a very reasonable product comparison. Producing something like this takes a LOT of time. It is very much appreciated. [and +1 for the music]
Agreed, only -1 for the music. 😁
I liked all three, I think only skillful people can tell the difference, , wonderful 👌🙏.
For ease of application and the added ability to achieve protection at higher grits, Odie’s wins hands down. You get more for less coats. There no mixing of two parts, and no need for rollers or brushes as well. I like that I can sand to 1000 and still get gain penetration. This becomes even more evident when using dark or super duper. The one thing I don’t care for is how it changes the shades of lighter woods. For Maple and lighter woods, I prefer Rubio. It’s worth the extra labor required to mitigate the yellowing that I tend to get with either Odie’s or Osmo. Osmo is my least favorite. I don’t care how it is applied, water still affects it more than the other two.
Mixing the two parts of Rubio takes 30 seconds max lol, that’s not a legit argument against the product.
I had students put together a live edge walnut coffee table. We used Ice Epoxy for the river and Rubio Monocoat Pure for the finish. Because of your video (and a couple of others), we did scuff either a burgundy pad and reapply a 2nd coat. Thanks for the tips!
That’s awesome to hear! Glad I could help 🙂
Got my Rubio today... looking forward to tying it. Thanks for sharing this test, it sold me.
thabks so much for the effort you put into the video. I am a newbie and seeling Odies examples before I spend half a stack on that jar. love that you selaed something other than wood also.
Great video, I would like to point out that osmo has a 2-3week true cure time according to their tds, and running tests before that time does kinda smudge your durability test results. You are supposed to really baby what it's applied to during that cure window
It makes sense, because based on smell it was not cured 2weeks at least
Only sand for Rubio up to 120. It leaves the pores more open and allows better penetration, which gives better protection. Also using a squeegee to apply it on will allow it to absorb better (it’s akin to using a trowel for sheetrock mud or plaster), as a white pad/cloth/rag will absorb more than the wood, making it difficult for the wood to absorb all it can. Then use a white pad to work it in and ensure an even coat. Use a cloth/rag to remove the excess as it’ll more efficiently do so due to said absorption and will smooth over perfectly on the epoxy. For a second coat, some will say to gently go over it with 240, wipe down, and apply. I’ve had great success with simply wiping down and applying, the chatoyance it’ll bring out in walnut is simply stunning, like nothing else can achieve.
I'm glad you had the same results as me, the Osmo is completely a waste of money, I had issues with water damage on multiple clients workpieces, contacted Osmo customer service and got zero help, I had to sand the product off and choose another finish, I don't understand how this product is sold as a floor finish as IMO it's rubbish.
great video. I use 2 of these products, mostly with black walnut, sometimes even in combination. This was an excellent side by side comparison. Doing these kinds of tests can really provide useful info
Would you mind elaborating a bit on how you combine them and in what order? I was thinking about the very same thing, wondering whether one could get the best of both - or all three - worlds by doing so...
Thanks for doing this! I'm making a Sapele table for someone and want to use a natural finish so was thinking of trying Odie's oil. I was hoping to find a comparison of other oils so really appreciate the effort you put into demonstrating results of three brands.
I just completed a rift-cut white oak kitchen (cabinets) with Rubio's 5% Smoke. My first time using and I love it. I only sanded to 100 grit (per Rubio instruction) and water-popped before application. 100 grit would be too harsh for cherry, for example, but on the white oak it was a perfect grit. With a 2nd coat of Rubio's the sheen evens out and is flat but not dull. I also used Rubio's on cherry stair treads for a boat. Looks fantastic. I have used Odies (on a walnut river table) but the finish is too dull for my taste.
nice. I just did a rift white oak kitchen with Rubio "natural".. sanded to 180, never water popped, only one coat, it looks and feels great!
Darn, now I have to spring for the Rubio.... but the results are worth it. Thanks for sharing.
I'm going with the rubio for our live edge counter tops. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Drew for an excellent video. I have subscribed.
There are many “experts” demonstrating different methods of applying OSMO. They do not include tests for stain resistance, nor mention of total amount of solids deposited with each technique. They only comment on final finish.
Some of these “experts” appear to be blatant influencers, despite their strident declarations that they are independent.
The OSMO motto “thin to win” obviously contributes to poor stain resistance, so should be reviewed.
Perhaps “enough for tough” might be more apt.
I will try the OSMO microfibre rollers. I presume wrapping the rollers up in lunch wrap plastic will be the best way to store between coats. The OSMO expert could comment please, as well as cleaning rollers.
I found OSMO comments very helpful, thank you.
I’ve used Rubios and Odies and much prefer Odies. The biggest difference is having to mix Rubios with the activator. Unless you’ve used it a lot, it’s hard to gauge how much to mix and you end up wasting a lot. Odies is also thicker, which helps you apply it more evenly.
I haven't used the others and I plan to try them, but as far as Osmo, it does continue to harden for quite a while (like 3-5 weeks, I think), and will hold up much better at that point.
I'd planned to use Osmo on my kitchen worktop, but I can't not use them for 3-5 weeks, so I'm wondering how other people manage... 🥴
I can't thank you enough for this video! I am having some white oak pieces built for my new kitchen and these 3 products were the contenders for finishing...I was going to go with Osmo, but now think I'll try Odie's.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to show the protection. I think Odies oil should have been your favorite just because it smells so good😂
Easily wins the smell contest!
I’d give 30 thumbs up to this comment! I frickin love the smell of odies!!!
great vid. Rubio looks like the best option of all to me
Excellent comparison. Some folks use Zennheiser Sealer either alone or with a top coat such as spray lacquer.
Really cool test the only thing I would say is the Osmo oil was not properly applied, I have done may liquid tests with the polyx Oil on hardwood floors, furniture and never had water marks even leaving water on for 24 hours and not a blemish.
beautiful video!! the only thing I would have added is that Odies Oil is certified for contact with food and you could apply it without protection, but in fact the components are not known.
both the osmo and rubio products are also food safe when dried.
I use Odies and it works great. I don’t know if you are supposed to use it over a stain but I do. I’m going to try their dark oils and see how that works. Thanks for the testing.
Did you end up getting their dark finish? If so how is it? I kinda want to pick up a jar. I have the original
No I did not, I ended up moving and doing a remodel and have not set up my shop yet. If you try it let me know how it works. Thanks
Excellent video. Very thorough comparison. Thank you so much for doing this.
just got odie’s for the first time. can’t wait to use it! thanks for the video!
Great video !!! I also have tried all three and prefer Rubio Mono coat (I do two applications)
I haven’t used Rubio or Otey’s but have played around with Osmo trying the thin build up over three coats at first and now I trowel it on or roll it and let it soak in for an hour and then give it a buff with a rag. Two coats max depending on application. Trowel for sheets of ply pre cutting/assembly. Roller for second coat post assembly.
Yeah ive been playing with osmo a bit still trying to find the perfect application because it does look great. But the other two are impossible to mess up application which is nice for most quicker jobs
Great test! I've recently switched to Odie's from Osmo as I thought it was better finish, which you have proved!
Thanks for making this video it really helped me out. I'm a big odies oil fan and I love walnut wood so I want to try the Rubio.
What a detailed comparison. Thanks a lot!!! Really enlightening.
I would like to see how well odies would have performed with 2 coats.
i called odies and asked them about highest level of protection. to acheive highest level of protection apply three products in this order. 1. super penetrating oil 2. odies oil 3. odies wax
I liked the music - not too loud, not too aggressive and didn't interfere with the voice-over. Good video, thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this comparison. Recently a friend asked me what I was using. I decided to research since I’d picked Odie’s on a whim rather than information. I’ve been using Odie’s and based on this demo, I may still use Odie’s as I’m a huge fan of that smooth, smooth wood. I’m curious why you didn’t compare Walrus - is that because they’re meant primarily for cutting boards vs. furniture or general wood projects? I’m only asking because I’ve watch another two, maybe three videos on this subject and they didn’t use Walrus either. Again, thanks for taking the time, and hopefully for your reply to my Q.
It's not apples to apples but I recently tried the Osmo 2K for a speaker cabinet restoration. I used the Rubio last spring on a cabinet build. Overall I greatly preferred the Osmo 2K to the Rubio. Even using the recommended Rubio Maintenance Oil I never got the finish I wanted. Conversely, the Osmo 2K has a better sheen, better coverage, and dries much faster.
Nice comparison. Thank you for your time
This video helped me a lot. Thanks for doing it.
Osmo is a killer product, and I have yet to see the need for more than one coat. Three seems like a complete waste, but to each their own!
Just wrapped up my first project with Rubio and I can say it in fact does NOT need a second coat when applied heavy enough and with buffing after it’s specified time.
Don't tell me you didn't notice the dead fly! On oh so many shots! 😁
(also a great video, thanks for the exact comparison I was looking for)
Haha i did not but there’s dead flies all over our shop at that time of year so probly thought nothing of it
just started using odies and am put off by the other two. i think if you are making something to give or sell to some else it needs a finish anyone can maintain without needing a lot of time or money. odies goes on just like a wax and can be fixed just by applying wax because most people aren't going to go pay 50 bucks for a can of odies just to use once in a blue moon. i've used it on a tabletop i've made and used regular waxes anyone would use over it on furniture and it buffs out nice every time. i've tried some other finishes like poly, etc., before but some of them once they get scratched or a hot liquid spilled on them that's it, there's nothing you can do but sand and reapply and most people aren't going to want to do that.
Love the coffee table unique 😊
Thank you for this review. The store I work at sells all three of these, so good info for me to have.
You are sick dude 🥰 , I love all what you have build, I'm your new fans from Indonesia 🇮🇩
Thanks for the video. Looking at all 3 of these. I used Odies on my last project sanded to 400, found the finish a bit too dull. I know they say you can sand to 2000 or something crazy, liked the application but too dull. Looking Rubio and Osmo, I appreciate the additional info from Osmo on applying and leaving full coats buff and top coat. Ill definitely try that and rubio on some future projects. Great comparisons
Thanks! Yes i had the same thoughts with odies. Rubio is definitely worth a try I’m using it on almost everything now
@@DrewBuildsStuff I wonder if a second coat of Odies' with their wood butter or wax would have brought out more of sheen and provided even more protection. Seems like it would have been a more fair comparison since Odie's was the only one that had a single coat.
@@kevinlavigne9931 I just ordered those two products to give them a try......Not that anyone cares. Just thought I would chime in.
I have sanded up to 1200 and then applied Odie's Oil. Buffed after a few hours then applied Odie's wax. I did this twice. The finish was like glass. Seriously worth experimenting with Odie's.
I have had quite a bit of experience using odies oil. I find the dull finishes are sometimes from not wiping all the excess oil off. I usually do an initial wipe (2-3 hours after application) and then come back 30-45 minutes later and wipe with a dry towel again. The multiple wipe downs have proven to be beneficial. I also sand to 600 grit on wood/1000 grit wet sand rivers, which gives a glassier look. My 2 cents
Thanks for the info. I’m jut getting into new finish’s. Very helpful
What a great video! Helped me make a decision about the right finish for my kitchen table. Thank you!
I think cheesecloth would be a good thing to use to smooth on the finish. The Odie board was the best looking of all, I love the wood grain. I use a cutting board oil on my boards about once a month or so, to prevent them from drying out obviously lol. I have a couple of Paderno boards, so I take care of them. Your videos are so professional looking. Well done!!
Hello Drew, nice video! Can you try comparing oldies and livos? You have already used Livos for your exterior sauna finish and the interior, Livos makes a natural linseed oil for countertops and butcherblocks. It would be a nice video.
I NEEDED this video today. Thank you very much!
This is exactly what I was looking for.. Thanks!
Hey, It'd be interesting to repeat the experiment w/ everything sanded down to the same grit, maybe remove the dust w/ some mineral spirits and an air gun for safe keeping. That extra sanding on the Odie's would have most likely filled some of the pores.
Thanks for the comparison.
My experience with the Osmo wood wax finish (colored version) is that it wears too much in high-use situations like tables or benches. I used a darker Osmo wood wax finish in mahogany on a table and bench and after only a few uses the color is wearing away in areas where fabric touches it.
Great, neutral comparison, greatly appreciated, ive been using odies but will now try monocoat!
Very useful. Thanks for the testing.
Great test and very useful. I am now a subscriber.
For an invincible clear finish, use 2 part epoxy, followed by several whisper thin coats of Epifanes High Gloss Marine varnish. It will survive in water, even full sun, and take a beating on the surface.
good info thank you. getting ready to take on a challenge, I'm a bit rusty.
Nicely done. Thank you for your due diligence. I would be curious as to how the products compare in price. Keep up the good work.
This is great info thank you Drew
Osmo looks great, but that Odie's Oil smell ❤❤❤❤
Nice stuff; methodical and organized. I appreciated the comparison, and that you went with the manufacturer directions precisely.
Should you want to branch out, on my dining table I used Osmo Poly-X and took a page from a boatbuilder friend - I used a French polish technique, using a high-grit wet-sand paper and then buffing the slurry into the wood. Repeated several times - 4 or 5 coats perhaps? That table has been through a lot and doesn’t soak in any liquids. I love the hand of Osmo. But based on your video I’m going to try some Rubio on a project soon. Cheers -
I have a bathroom vanity top made of spalted beech. I used Osmo Wood protector 4006, this gives extra water resistance then two layers of Osmo top oil. Its there 4 years with water on it daily and its now starting to look like it needs another coat of top oil. I don't seem to have issues you have with Osmo. Not sure if you get the Osmo Wood protector 4006 in the US.
I've been wondering. Thank you!
Wondered for a sec if this video was sponsored by Captain Morgan! 😆
I've been looking into hardwax oils for my old red oak floors, cause the application process looks so much easier than poly and I like the look more in any case. Thanks for this video! The liquids test especially helped me see what I could expect with one of these finishes long-term.
Very good video
Very good video, thank you, and u have a new sub. One question though, you concluded that you preferred Rubio because of it's ease of use, but it looked easier to apply Odies. What did I miss...or misunderstand?
Enjoyed the video, thanks! Got a lot of info out of these comments, too. Love the look of Osmo, but it’s hard to swallow the time it takes - I could get past it for the initial finishing job, but it seems like it’d be the same story to touch up later, too. Gonna have a look at those ceramics I saw you mention that could go over Rubio.
Odie's is my choice.
Thanks so much for posting. I have a house that is 1 year old and the floors are done with Rubio pure. I have a big family and a lot of cooking and traffic. The guy who did them said to wait 2 years, but I know they need a refresher, and there are area in the kitchen where it’s looking really dingy and dry. I use wood soap every 4-6 weeks, unless my grandkids come and then it’s more often. There are stained areas that I believe I should use tannin cleaner on. Question is, do I use pure again or universal oil to refresh floors? Or something altogether different? Also what is the best way to apply and then remove? Can I leave areas (like under a rug) alone, or should I do entire floor? If grain is raised a bit in areas do I need to sand? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
Have just discovered Rubio's on another channel and, having used Osmo for years, was about to send off for a Rubio sample. I appreciate the care and detail of your review, thank you.
(PS - could I suggest you dial the music back a bit on your next video as I found it almost drowned your voice.)
Yeah definitely try it out it’s impossible to mess up which is awesome for 90% of jobs and looks amazing. Yes I’ve been trying to keep the music down lately. Thanks for watching!
Hi Drew have you thought about making some wall art with those pieces..the light coming through them is cool..maybe a box design with internal backlight installed..would look very nice on the wall
How are these products different than wiping varnish? Arm R Seal offers better protection and offers the look of tung oil. I can understand the Rubio way with one coat in a day vs 3 coats in 3 days with ARS.
odies is a plant based hardwax oil. it does not have harsh chemicals. not sure about the others. but hardwax oils act like the tung oil, they fill the pores of the wood. arm r seal is polyurethane which is essentially thin layers of plastic material to make a coating. poly becomes much harder and more durable than these finishes. but the hardwax oils are a finish that give you a more nautral and close to the wood appeal.
Perfect video all the way around! Thank you! I was already sold on Rubio but I want to try Odies now! Could you do a follow up video of how hard (or hopefully easy) it is to retouch each finish? Damage happens, the ability to repair is *almost* more important than the application! Subscribed for more! 👍
Odies is extremely easy to repair. Just apply another coat the same way as the first. No need to sand or strip. You can apply as many coats as you want until you get the desired sheen. Each coat will add more protection as well.
It would be great if you tried a high gloss food safe coat and tested it. -Wondering if that would be more waterproof and scratch-resistent?
Love this video , great test , well executed - I am about to switch to Rubio myself (from Osmo) though I do the the Osmo Raw - Eve
Have you had any experience with blackforestwood products ceramics finishing? I'd be very keen to see these 3 products overcoated with the BFW ceramics...
The application process seems so nice with these products, but the difference in durability compared to poly is just too large for me to switch.
Im here because i keep getting rashes from the Rubio getting on my skin...2 weeks of itch isnt worth it for me. Apparently its the activator that causes it so i may just suck it up and use just raw finish and have the cure time longer. The difference between rubio and odies is so small i may experiment with odies to see what i think about it.
I know others have gotten rashed from rubio as well so if you have sensitive skin be wary of using Rubio with the activator.
Odies is great stuff, their owners just don’t support small woodworkers in anyway so I found Walrus oil and other competitors that have the same product but none of the hatefulness