I had a stainless mesh basket made to fit my brew kettle. Cost a fair wedge, but I figured it makes life easier because I can now get in there with a paddle attached to my battery drill to break up the dough balls without tearing the bag, and I can use my electric hoist to lift it out 😂
Yeah i was thinking about buying a mesh basket from a homebrew shop in Victoria but it was a bit short for my kettle. I also use a plastic stir spoon to do most of the mashing to avoid cutting my bags and i just use my metal paddle at the end when the mash is loosened up.
Thanks Mate! If a digiboil is right for you than i'd recommend it with the brew bag for a cheap all grain set-up. I got mine originally because i didnt have the budget for a brewzilla or grainfather but make sure you get the false bottom and the brew bag to go with it
7:10 Hi, a statement and a question please. Have you considered freezing bottles of a suitable size to sit inside the chiller coil and i'm struggling on a decision to place the coil inside the boiler and pump water from a bucket filled with frozen bottles OR to pump the wort through the coil as per your method. I may have to buy another pump just for the water method. After the chill, are you happy with the cleaning method of the internals of the chiller coil, any dramas? Thanks, love the channel.
I enjoyed watching the video very much. Baggery, along with, the single temperature infusion brewing method causes certain issues that makes it tough on a brewer to correct. The brewing method produces extract that's chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced and unstable and for those reasons homebrew is artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection and drank when the beer is still green, boiler to belly in four to six weeks. The beer deteriorates during fermentation and conditioning, due to low quality wort. The homebrew method is used in grain distillation, where a single temperature rest, Alpha and glucose are only needed for producing distillers beer. The three steps that are required for producing ale and lager are skipped in homebrewing, conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization. An entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used for making ale and lager. Gladfield's malt is under modified and will work better with step mashing. An albuminus protein rest shouldn't be used when step mashing because the beer will be thin. The Hochkurz brewing method is an improvement over infusion brewing and would be better to use with the malt. Soaking under modified, malt at one temperature doesn't take advantage of the rich malt and will produce the same beer that high modified, malt produces, glucose is glucose. The pH of malt is indicated on a malt spec sheet along with several other acronyms and numbers and without being familiar with the data on a malt spec sheet you have no idea if you are purchasing malt more suitable for making whiskey with or malt that will make ale and lager. Don't assume that the HBS guy knows the difference, he only sells malt that's listed on recipes written by a guy that doesn't know the difference or knows that a malt spec sheet exists. They're marketers. There are two important numbers on a malt spec sheet that a brewer needs to know, percentage of protein and level of modification. The less protein in malt, the more sugar. The lower the modification, the richer the malt is in enzyme content. If the electronic brewing gizmonic uses hot mash liquid recirculation for prolonged periods of time a condition called over sparge occurs where tannin is extracted. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing and that is why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes. High acid hops are imbalanced. The percentage of Alpha and the percentage of Beta should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers are, the finer and more balanced the hops are. When the percentage of Beta isn't listed on a package of hops, the ducks didn't line up. To learn how to produce ale and lager start out with DeClerks books.
It's really great fun watching these! Was looking for an electric kettle, and I bought a Digiboil 35l after watching your videos. Just a question, how have you increased your efficiency? :) I'm just a beginner brewer, so I'm not expecting to make miracles yet, but would be fun to hear from someone with a similar setup to me! Though I do not have a pump, so I mashed by stirring every 15 minutes
Thanks Leo! I have increased my efficiency with new bag and it drains so much easier than my old bag which is the biggest difference ive found. With my old bag i had to squeeze it really hard but this bag allows the wort to escape so much easier so im able to get through the sparge quicker. A pump is not essential but what i found is that it helps keeps the mash temperature more stable if your going to mash with the element turned on which is what i do for most of my beers. The pump definitely works better now with the new bag, the 400 micron mesh really makes a difference to the flow of wort in the kettle
@@thebackyardbrewer5611 Thanks! A pump is on the - ever growing :) - buy list! Got it up to 72 % efficiency this saturday, which is a great improvement from before! Gonna try and find a recipe I can iterate on, do several times and find what variables works, and learn from that
Hmm light bulb moment, PH has always been my weakest point, I always wondered why I was off. As you said I'm adding my PH adjustments to the total water volume, but when I do my readings during the mash PH isn't as I was expecting, because I still have water left to sparge with. Do you know how to account for this is Brewfather? Thanks Mate
I've always acidified all my brewing water up front and put some aside for later rinsing. Lately though ive just been doing full volume mashes and skipping the sparge completely
Hi there. What do you call that water canister there that you use for your sparge water? I've been trying to find them online but I cant find the word for it.
I had a stainless mesh basket made to fit my brew kettle. Cost a fair wedge, but I figured it makes life easier because I can now get in there with a paddle attached to my battery drill to break up the dough balls without tearing the bag, and I can use my electric hoist to lift it out 😂
Yeah i was thinking about buying a mesh basket from a homebrew shop in Victoria but it was a bit short for my kettle. I also use a plastic stir spoon to do most of the mashing to avoid cutting my bags and i just use my metal paddle at the end when the mash is loosened up.
Brought one of the bags. Finally on its way. Can’t wait to use it!
Your videos are SOO GOOD! I'm thinking about a Digiboil and a biab. Kinda the next step for all-grain brewing.
Thanks Mate! If a digiboil is right for you than i'd recommend it with the brew bag for a cheap all grain set-up. I got mine originally because i didnt have the budget for a brewzilla or grainfather but make sure you get the false bottom and the brew bag to go with it
Love your clips, nice music also ;)
7:10 Hi, a statement and a question please. Have you considered freezing bottles of a suitable size to sit inside the chiller coil and i'm struggling on a decision to place the coil inside the boiler and pump water from a bucket filled with frozen bottles OR to pump the wort through the coil as per your method. I may have to buy another pump just for the water method. After the chill, are you happy with the cleaning method of the internals of the chiller coil, any dramas? Thanks, love the channel.
Update. The chiller in a cold bucket concept is a fail. Within minutes, everything is at 100 degrees.
I enjoyed watching the video very much. Baggery, along with, the single temperature infusion brewing method causes certain issues that makes it tough on a brewer to correct. The brewing method produces extract that's chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced and unstable and for those reasons homebrew is artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection and drank when the beer is still green, boiler to belly in four to six weeks. The beer deteriorates during fermentation and conditioning, due to low quality wort.
The homebrew method is used in grain distillation, where a single temperature rest, Alpha and glucose are only needed for producing distillers beer. The three steps that are required for producing ale and lager are skipped in homebrewing, conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization.
An entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used for making ale and lager.
Gladfield's malt is under modified and will work better with step mashing. An albuminus protein rest shouldn't be used when step mashing because the beer will be thin. The Hochkurz brewing method is an improvement over infusion brewing and would be better to use with the malt. Soaking under modified, malt at one temperature doesn't take advantage of the rich malt and will produce the same beer that high modified, malt produces, glucose is glucose.
The pH of malt is indicated on a malt spec sheet along with several other acronyms and numbers and without being familiar with the data on a malt spec sheet you have no idea if you are purchasing malt more suitable for making whiskey with or malt that will make ale and lager. Don't assume that the HBS guy knows the difference, he only sells malt that's listed on recipes written by a guy that doesn't know the difference or knows that a malt spec sheet exists. They're marketers. There are two important numbers on a malt spec sheet that a brewer needs to know, percentage of protein and level of modification. The less protein in malt, the more sugar. The lower the modification, the richer the malt is in enzyme content.
If the electronic brewing gizmonic uses hot mash liquid recirculation for prolonged periods of time a condition called over sparge occurs where tannin is extracted. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing and that is why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes.
High acid hops are imbalanced. The percentage of Alpha and the percentage of Beta should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers are, the finer and more balanced the hops are. When the percentage of Beta isn't listed on a package of hops, the ducks didn't line up.
To learn how to produce ale and lager start out with DeClerks books.
Brew bag arrived last week. Can’t wait! What size fittings do you have on your pump and chiller?
1/2 BSP, that's pretty much a standard size for many pipe connections
It's really great fun watching these! Was looking for an electric kettle, and I bought a Digiboil 35l after watching your videos. Just a question, how have you increased your efficiency? :) I'm just a beginner brewer, so I'm not expecting to make miracles yet, but would be fun to hear from someone with a similar setup to me! Though I do not have a pump, so I mashed by stirring every 15 minutes
Thanks Leo! I have increased my efficiency with new bag and it drains so much easier than my old bag which is the biggest difference ive found. With my old bag i had to squeeze it really hard but this bag allows the wort to escape so much easier so im able to get through the sparge quicker. A pump is not essential but what i found is that it helps keeps the mash temperature more stable if your going to mash with the element turned on which is what i do for most of my beers. The pump definitely works better now with the new bag, the 400 micron mesh really makes a difference to the flow of wort in the kettle
@@thebackyardbrewer5611 Thanks! A pump is on the - ever growing :) - buy list! Got it up to 72 % efficiency this saturday, which is a great improvement from before! Gonna try and find a recipe I can iterate on, do several times and find what variables works, and learn from that
Hmm light bulb moment, PH has always been my weakest point, I always wondered why I was off. As you said I'm adding my PH adjustments to the total water volume, but when I do my readings during the mash PH isn't as I was expecting, because I still have water left to sparge with. Do you know how to account for this is Brewfather? Thanks Mate
I've always acidified all my brewing water up front and put some aside for later rinsing. Lately though ive just been doing full volume mashes and skipping the sparge completely
Hi there. What do you call that water canister there that you use for your sparge water? I've been trying to find them online but I cant find the word for it.
That's called a Jerry Can. You can get them for water and fuel, this is a water approved bpa free one from my local hardware store