Great video mate, you're a star. I overheated my M54B30 engine this week and had a crack at replacing the head gasket myself. I only discovered 3 of my threads were buggered when torquing the head back down. Searched TH-cam for advice and came across your channel. Much appreciated, keep up the good work.
I'm looking at my 325ti M54B25 with a 3 times overheated (and repaired blown gasket) engine. So good to see that this repair is a possibility. Gives me confidence to start with this job. Thanks!
great video bruv, for someone who works as an apprentice at an automotive machine shop who also happens to love bmw's, i love the ingenuity & tips and tricks.keep it up man. i wouldn't mind seeing more bmw content either lol
I dont know why I never see you in my feed. Always have to search you out. Thanks again for the best info in a format I can completly absorb. (Always adding that exta info not everyone knows/ obvios stuff. ) Do I thank you, or the brew?
Aluminum does not like to get hot. Its a overheat cycle that effects the block threads imo. I make borosiclate glass for a living / lots of heating things way up and cooling them off. Combine that with the porosity of these blocks never was that great. (Lots of impuritys cook out if you ever need to repair one.)
I Would have to say that block that pulled the threads may have gotten way overheated no real way to avoid when that happens with the threads being pulled. i would use lock tight 620
bought a $200 overheated b30 had all but maybe two of the headbolts strip out so i just hand drilled and tapped all of threads with helicoils and its done 10k miles no issue beating the s*%t out of it, feel like the alu blocks get a bad wrap and are way more durable than most people think hit or miss sounds about right to be honest 😂
I had to do that with my 530i 3.9 6 cyl a long while back. It was horrific to have that happen.. I had to sell it after I put it back together. Mine was factory lowered suspension. Sad... such a nice car with shit engineering. Never again BMW!
what the heck with the edit?? anyways.. Drilling sucked!! I don't have a machine shop... I double stacked the heli coils,, they are way too shot with only one... PIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video I will add to my M54 rebuild reference library. One item I've always wondered about working on an engine. It seems to me the engine stands are not that rigid or sturdy, especially when you are torqueing. Is there a better stand or method. Again, thank you for taking the time to make this video.
If I did more of these engines I would probably weld some supports to the stand to stiffen it all up. Otherwise its just kinda the nature of the beast.
@@spankranchgarage have you ever drilled too far into the block during one of these jobs on the m54, i ended up drilling to far on one and connected to the water passage. Dont know if i should just scrap the engine or run it
@@mrbcskater16 I havent done that yet. Depending on the situation I was in however I would maybe fill the bottom of the hole with epoxy. Maybe RTV the bolt for added insurance and it would probably be fine forever.
@@spankranchgarage ill give that a try. This block has be a pain but i wanna make the most of it since i found out i broke through after i did all the inserts and was getting ready to put her back together.
Send it. Seal up that stud or bolt really well and don't look back. I bet it never causes you a problem.... Until you take it apart in 5 years and forget which hole is punched through.
So I’m replacing my head gasket and when I go to torque these down the torque procedure isn’t 65 ftlbs… it is 40 nm, then 90 degrees, and the then another 90 degrees… the cylinder head from the factory comes wrapped because it aluminum and it lays flat when you do that l torquing procedure… the final torque on them is around 55-65 nm roughly
@@kylehagan3381 Yes you are right. In this case I am not using the stock bolts. I am using studs from a Nissan VQ. I torque these to 65ftlb as they are not TTY like the bmw bolts are
What do you mean by 90 degrees? I may be doing this job within a few weeks and could use as much help as possible. Do you mean 90 degree turns, stopping, and repeating? I've never done any internal engine work but I have replaced the whole cooling system and I'm thinking head gasket is bad. White smoke, but no evidence of oil in cooling system or froth on oil cap.
Great video mate, you're a star. I overheated my M54B30 engine this week and had a crack at replacing the head gasket myself. I only discovered 3 of my threads were buggered when torquing the head back down. Searched TH-cam for advice and came across your channel. Much appreciated, keep up the good work.
Underrated Channel!
Thanks!
100% but I’m sure it’ll get there in short order.
Greetings from Bulgaria
After one year of testing is that method for repairing treads prove to be ok for low boosted applications?
Super helpful for those times when your back is against the wall. Way to stay calm and make it work!
I'm looking at my 325ti M54B25 with a 3 times overheated (and repaired blown gasket) engine. So good to see that this repair is a possibility. Gives me confidence to start with this job. Thanks!
great video bruv, for someone who works as an apprentice at an automotive machine shop who also happens to love bmw's, i love the ingenuity & tips and tricks.keep it up man. i wouldn't mind seeing more bmw content either lol
Plenty to come!
Channels awesome mate, respect the can do anything attitude. That DIY insert was a awesome idea
I dont know why I never see you in my feed. Always have to search you out. Thanks again for the best info in a format I can completly absorb. (Always adding that exta info not everyone knows/ obvios stuff. ) Do I thank you, or the brew?
Thank the brew!
Aluminum does not like to get hot. Its a overheat cycle that effects the block threads imo. I make borosiclate glass for a living / lots of heating things way up and cooling them off. Combine that with the porosity of these blocks never was that great. (Lots of impuritys cook out if you ever need to repair one.)
Absolutely brilliant thankyou
Love ur videos mate
also what is that socket that is going over the head studs without a head bolt
The holes are in great condition🥵
I Would have to say that block that pulled the threads may have gotten way overheated no real way to avoid when that happens with the threads being pulled. i would use lock tight 620
how do you know how far down to drill the new threaded hole
Just check how deep it is with a thin screwdriver
Hi, i don't know the torque and seauence time between stage and stage of ARP head studs for M54B30. Do yo know it?
Thanks, grest video!
I think I use 60ft/lb and the factory sequence
bought a $200 overheated b30 had all but maybe two of the headbolts strip out so i just hand drilled and tapped all of threads with helicoils and its done 10k miles no issue beating the s*%t out of it, feel like the alu blocks get a bad wrap and are way more durable than most people think hit or miss sounds about right to be honest 😂
Yup I agree 100%. Glad yours is still ripping
I had to do that with my 530i 3.9 6 cyl a long while back. It was horrific to have that happen.. I had to sell it after I put it back together. Mine was factory lowered suspension. Sad... such a nice car with shit engineering. Never again BMW!
what the heck with the edit?? anyways.. Drilling sucked!! I don't have a machine shop... I double stacked the heli coils,, they are way too shot with only one... PIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video I will add to my M54 rebuild reference library. One item I've always wondered about working on an engine. It seems to me the engine stands are not that rigid or sturdy, especially when you are torqueing. Is there a better stand or method.
Again, thank you for taking the time to make this video.
If I did more of these engines I would probably weld some supports to the stand to stiffen it all up. Otherwise its just kinda the nature of the beast.
The forbidden slinky 🤣
Quality content 👌🏼
Thank you!
@@spankranchgarage have you ever drilled too far into the block during one of these jobs on the m54, i ended up drilling to far on one and connected to the water passage. Dont know if i should just scrap the engine or run it
@@mrbcskater16 I havent done that yet. Depending on the situation I was in however I would maybe fill the bottom of the hole with epoxy. Maybe RTV the bolt for added insurance and it would probably be fine forever.
@@spankranchgarage ill give that a try. This block has be a pain but i wanna make the most of it since i found out i broke through after i did all the inserts and was getting ready to put her back together.
Send it. Seal up that stud or bolt really well and don't look back. I bet it never causes you a problem.... Until you take it apart in 5 years and forget which hole is punched through.
So I’m replacing my head gasket and when I go to torque these down the torque procedure isn’t 65 ftlbs… it is 40 nm, then 90 degrees, and the then another 90 degrees… the cylinder head from the factory comes wrapped because it aluminum and it lays flat when you do that l torquing procedure… the final torque on them is around 55-65 nm roughly
Warped*
@@kylehagan3381 Yes you are right. In this case I am not using the stock bolts. I am using studs from a Nissan VQ. I torque these to 65ftlb as they are not TTY like the bmw bolts are
What do you mean by 90 degrees? I may be doing this job within a few weeks and could use as much help as possible. Do you mean 90 degree turns, stopping, and repeating? I've never done any internal engine work but I have replaced the whole cooling system and I'm thinking head gasket is bad. White smoke, but no evidence of oil in cooling system or froth on oil cap.
@kylehagan3381
Awesome video!! What is the part number of the headstuds you used?
They are 350Z main studs. You get 2 extra as a bonus. amzn.to/3nMZSZI
@@spankranchgarage thanks dude
Mint.
Nice video.
Did you use lube under the nut when you tested the torque on your blown block?
Cheers
Yes I put ARP lube on both sides of the washer
@@spankranchgarage Kool, thanks. 👍
@@spankranchgarage I have previously used 65lbft using ARP lube as well with OEM M10 Bolts. and 75lbft with M12 studs.
Nice info. thank you.
hey man do you do customer tuning? thanks
I don't do much customer tuning these days, thanks.
I will have to swap out to my aluminum magnet for the mag drill to tackle this job
You just reverse the polarity
@@spankranchgarage 😂 Wouldn’t that reverse the threads?
Just answered my question o left on your other video 😂
a spank sert lmfao!!!! I time sert all my m54's lol
Spanktastic
How much had to be removed from the stud to be the correct length and how did u do so I currently have a 5-6mm too much with the vq35 stud
I use these right out of the box without modifying. The length is slightly long but they work perfect
What torqe for these studs
I torque them to 65ft/lbs
anyone found a link for those e-z lok threads with 1 inch lenght? they have em all over amazon but only half inch length. thanks in advance
The part number is 330-10. You can get them from an industrial supplier. I just bought enough to do an entire block. Ill make a video when I do it.
Magic soda makes a lot of things not pull out
top comment here!!
Filthy BMW, wouldn't of happened if the blinkers worked.