I figured it out by watching another video. Something is loose or not sealed on the intake system. I have had this issue for months and have researched and tried many different things to resolve it. One possible problem was the air filter possibly being clogged and the engine/turbo not getting enough air. When I checked the air filter it looked great…. Replaced everything with airbox n such and then the problem became a major issue as the engine was wanting to stall when coming to a stop and a slow speeds. Prior to this it was only happening at high rpm and top end speeds. I saw another video and another gentleman on TH-cam with tag “Guille” he noticed a break on the seal of the Inter cooler causing the same issue. Well the airbox is not connected directly to Intercooler return but I figured I would check anyway. Didn’t have to or even look at the return because the culprit was the airbox connection to the intake. Reattached and tightened the O clamp. bAM fixed and engine acceleration just totally went to a new level…. Really where it was when I got the car. I have been looking at many videos on this subject. There are so many videos and people that complain about the staggered acceleration and some even claim that it’s just part of the way the vehicle works. NOPE there is a leak in the intake system SOMEWHERE…. Could be in a different spot for you, however, I think the reason is is so common is that many of us change our own air filters. Happened to me when I upgraded to k&N. So if you have “staggered acceleration” or stalling at low speeds… check every component of the intake and make sure there is nothing loose or compromised. Most likely air is getting in somewhere and I liken it to having a hole in a straw on a beverage. Cracked straw and drinking your beverage is just not gonna happen. Same concept here. Hope this helps.
First thanks for making this video. For anyone reading this, I just bought a 328d wagon 2014 and when accelerating it was jerking pretty bad, at least in my opinion. Did this and worked like a charm. Thanks again.
My F10 523 having the jerky issue . Slow acceleration from gear 1 to gear 2 , there is a strong punch n jerk and it changes to the next gear . The rest of the gears are buttery smooth . Just when slow accelerating from first to second . Have changed the ATF oil and filter . Not sure what’s the issue . Will this method helps ? Thanks in advance
@@gykgykbettercar Hi , I have tried 3 times , first 2 try there is still small jerk from The back push while accelerating and changing gear from first to second . After third attempt, the gear changing was smooth again . Hopefully it is resolved . Does F10 owners need to do this occasionally when the jerky push during gear shift returns ?
@@nicken818 Hi, usually do not need to make too often. This is a very sensitive technology and of you feel some inconsistency its good to make it. Important to keep the timing and the steps correctly! But seems a solution for you… I am riding now a G21 M340 with only 20k km and I also feel sometimes between 2>3 especially in sport mode and echo mode… thats also an evidence of synchronization question as we all know the modes are just changing the characteristic and nothing more… if you feel better now, must be ok. If the problem still occur - something else is behind. Thx
This issue what you are describing is also connected to Xdrive (Transfer case/box), check transfer case fluid, if it's dark, change it. Mine has this kind of problem, jerky acclerations, also car was jerking once driving on a hill. changing transfer case fluid fixed this issue 100%.
@Josphat Mutai so many issues, dont know where to start. So dissapointed in this car with 80k( kms nt miles)was told by bmw it was the transfercase actuator. Changed that 2k and 4 days later it returned and they said it was the transfer case and wanted crazy money to change. In one yr and under 100kms on the car I had to replace Alternator Earthing straps Sterio amp Speakers blown Rear hatch power switch -whole panel not able to buy the one switch Water pump failed Oil.cooler leak Belt tensioner failed as a result of the oil cooler leak Vanos, spark plugs and coils ) Map and maf sensors Charge pipe crack Sold it, kept the aftermarket rims Researched dependable sun's. Found a low mile 2004 montero limited from a one owner. It's been flawless so far and I bought for less than the replacement cost of the transfercase
2015 M4 coupe DCT I’m experiencing this in manual mode 1st & 2nd very very bad car jerking when getting into the accelerator. You simply don’t feel in control of the car it jerks and absolutely feels like a tuning issue. I’m on upgraded turbos and tryin to dial this in anyone with advise please chime in. I promise it’s not driver error owned over 50 high performance vehicles and ever ever experienced this with a vehicle before it’s simply just not correct the car has a clear issue going on that I need to diagnose soon or I’ll be selling because it simply makes the driving experience impossible with this defect at play.
Hi, this seems to me different issue like a simply re-setup. I have no clue about but you need to talk to gear specialist. Good luck man… hope not so serious to sell your M4 coupe 👍
How long it will take to relearn nee driving pattern. I feel gears are shifting after long revup. Does this reset transmission software which was updated by dealer.
Ok I have a 528i so can you tell me what’s going on when I drive it be jerking a little bit and then when I turn off the car once I get to my destination I’ll turn the car on it will shake while I’m trying to start it but won’t start so I gotta wait a while and then it will start ?
I have the 08 550i.... Crankshaft position censor is why your car won't start after you drive it. And if you were driving and it died it would be your camshaft position censors and if you have some hesitation it could be that you have over 100000 miles and you need to clean out or replace your Vanos solenoids if you see smoke out your pipes at idle you need knew pcv valves bcus if you have high miles your pcv valves seal with be ripped and if sitting at idle for a period of time and you drive off and see smoke your valve seals are bad
Hi. My F10 gasoline. When it gets down to 2 from 3 in 1000 rpm at 20 km/h and just I push the gas pedal , it hits at first while accelarating. Not smooth accelaration. Maybe it is normal ?
Hi, could be normal a little strike is normal even more at the back shift especially around 3 (3 to 2 and 4 to 3)... but this solution solve many other symptoms as this is calibrating the entire chain...
It does work. I tried it around 30min ago also cruising and speeding it. Totally 100% better. Just me or idk maybe i wait 2 minute in car before trying and heard motor sound like solenoid or something. Maybe they trying to calibrate. The sound appear at around 1 minute and half after releasing paddle.
Hello, it is difficult to say it works or not, but try it and share here if this works on your car... see other comments below. The question is the software and not the type of the car... good luck.
For e90 you need to turn on ignition without starting the engine ( just like in this video ) . After turning on ignition, simply press the gas pedal down completely for 30 seconds- 45 seconds and then you can start the car and the transmission will have been reset .
I figured it out by watching another video. Something is loose or not sealed on the intake system. I have had this issue for months and have researched and tried many different things to resolve it. One possible problem was the air filter possibly being clogged and the engine/turbo not getting enough air. When I checked the air filter it looked great…. Replaced everything with airbox n such and then the problem became a major issue as the engine was wanting to stall when coming to a stop and a slow speeds. Prior to this it was only happening at high rpm and top end speeds. I saw another video and another gentleman on TH-cam with tag “Guille” he noticed a break on the seal of the Inter cooler causing the same issue. Well the airbox is not connected directly to Intercooler return but I figured I would check anyway. Didn’t have to or even look at the return because the culprit was the airbox connection to the intake. Reattached and tightened the O clamp. bAM fixed and engine acceleration just totally went to a new level…. Really where it was when I got the car. I have been looking at many videos on this subject. There are so many videos and people that complain about the staggered acceleration and some even claim that it’s just part of the way the vehicle works. NOPE there is a leak in the intake system SOMEWHERE…. Could be in a different spot for you, however, I think the reason is is so common is that many of us change our own air filters. Happened to me when I upgraded to k&N. So if you have “staggered acceleration” or stalling at low speeds… check every component of the intake and make sure there is nothing loose or compromised. Most likely air is getting in somewhere and I liken it to having a hole in a straw on a beverage. Cracked straw and drinking your beverage is just not gonna happen. Same concept here. Hope this helps.
Bro God sent you to me. You literally saved me hundreds of dollars. You know how fuckin expensive these German auto mechanics can charge
Great to hear, this is why we made this Chanel... :)
Wait so do you push the accelerator down to touching the button or push it all the way so it's pushing the accelerator button
First thanks for making this video. For anyone reading this, I just bought a 328d wagon 2014 and when accelerating it was jerking pretty bad, at least in my opinion. Did this and worked like a charm. Thanks again.
Its worked for your bmw f31??
Perfect! Happy to help you...
For f30 335xi 2013 also can work it??
After the third stop you realese, but you waiting for two minutes with pressed gas pedal or not 🤷♂️
1:43 „and then you can release” You don’t have to press the gas pedal during this 2 minutes! Hope it helped! 😀
It doesnt helped on my car BMW 320d xdrive year 2014😢
My F10 523 having the jerky issue . Slow acceleration from gear 1 to gear 2 , there is a strong punch n jerk and it changes to the next gear . The rest of the gears are buttery smooth . Just when slow accelerating from first to second . Have changed the ATF oil and filter . Not sure what’s the issue . Will this method helps ? Thanks in advance
@@nicken818 hey, this is recalibrate the entire chain. You can try it, nothing to lose… give a try.👍
@@gykgykbettercar Hi , I have tried 3 times , first 2 try there is still small jerk from
The back push while accelerating and changing gear from first to second . After third attempt, the gear changing was smooth again .
Hopefully it is resolved . Does F10 owners need to do this occasionally when the jerky push during gear shift returns ?
@@nicken818 Hi, usually do not need to make too often. This is a very sensitive technology and of you feel some inconsistency its good to make it. Important to keep the timing and the steps correctly! But seems a solution for you… I am riding now a G21 M340 with only 20k km and I also feel sometimes between 2>3 especially in sport mode and echo mode… thats also an evidence of synchronization question as we all know the modes are just changing the characteristic and nothing more… if you feel better now, must be ok. If the problem still occur - something else is behind. Thx
@@gykgykbettercarThank you for much for making this video with the solution . Appreciate
Smoooz and yerky . FSho !
This issue what you are describing is also connected to Xdrive (Transfer case/box), check transfer case fluid, if it's dark, change it. Mine has this kind of problem, jerky acclerations, also car was jerking once driving on a hill. changing transfer case fluid fixed this issue 100%.
I have a x drive 535igt. Replaced the transmission pan/ fluid and reset adaptations. Still jerky. I'll try your recommended fix. Any tips? Dyi
@@rayscriven1875 did you get a solution?
@Josphat Mutai so many issues, dont know where to start. So dissapointed in this car with 80k( kms nt miles)was told by bmw it was the transfercase actuator. Changed that 2k and 4 days later it returned and they said it was the transfer case and wanted crazy money to change.
In one yr and under 100kms on the car I had to replace
Alternator
Earthing straps
Sterio amp
Speakers blown
Rear hatch power switch -whole panel not able to buy the one switch
Water pump failed
Oil.cooler leak
Belt tensioner failed as a result of the oil cooler leak
Vanos, spark plugs and coils )
Map and maf sensors
Charge pipe crack
Sold it, kept the aftermarket rims
Researched dependable sun's. Found a low mile 2004 montero limited from a one owner. It's been flawless so far and I bought for less than the replacement cost of the transfercase
Yo dude, ur name is god. Hi try this on my x5 E70. OMG what a big difference. Thx my man! Peace 🤜🏾🤜🏾
2015 M4 coupe DCT I’m experiencing this in manual mode 1st & 2nd very very bad car jerking when getting into the accelerator. You simply don’t feel in control of the car it jerks and absolutely feels like a tuning issue. I’m on upgraded turbos and tryin to dial this in anyone with advise please chime in. I promise it’s not driver error owned over 50 high performance vehicles and ever ever experienced this with a vehicle before it’s simply just not correct the car has a clear issue going on that I need to diagnose soon or I’ll be selling because it simply makes the driving experience impossible with this defect at play.
Hi, this seems to me different issue like a simply re-setup. I have no clue about but you need to talk to gear specialist. Good luck man… hope not so serious to sell your M4 coupe 👍
This saved me🎉
Lovely 👍
merhaba bu ne ise yarar ?
Will it work for e70 x5 2007?
HI, this is a method for F series but you can give a try... some of the E series had a software upgrade which may fit for... give a feedback.
How long it will take to relearn nee driving pattern. I feel gears are shifting after long revup. Does this reset transmission software which was updated by dealer.
Hi, it will learn immediately after you make the reset. Yes, it is just reset the the gear/transmission softer, like a zero shift. Hope helps…
Works on F06 ? and what if my engine and gearbox its mapped ??
Hi, I am not sure but I would try. Probably the f06 have the same software family, try it… Good luck!
Saved my ass man. I was having this issue on and off for months in my 2012 528i. Thanks
What was The Problem?
what was wrong with it
❤❤❤ works /bow
Just did it & it worked! Appreciate the video
Got the same exact issue on my 2021 bmw m440i x drive that's 4 months old.
Thanks to extend!!! Many other types works as well... as long as you extend the more we can help... :-)
Wtf it's still a new car 😬
You’re kidding… I’m in the Market for the m850i. I’m thinking twice now. I have the same issue on my 535i (N55) currently.
Only for automatic tho 😜
Will try on my 1series. My gears keep slipping. Don’t go into 1st and reverse smoothly
Did it work?
@@Elliott.Revell still waiting grinding getting worse
@@TroyFortune_33 hmm that's annoying
@@TroyFortune_33 If it's actually grinding then you should go get it checked out.
Thanks so much worked on my x3
It worked
Great to hear… which car type? 😀👍
Ok I have a 528i so can you tell me what’s going on when I drive it be jerking a little bit and then when I turn off the car once I get to my destination I’ll turn the car on it will shake while I’m trying to start it but won’t start so I gotta wait a while and then it will start ?
What year is your car and milage?
I have the 08 550i.... Crankshaft position censor is why your car won't start after you drive it. And if you were driving and it died it would be your camshaft position censors and if you have some hesitation it could be that you have over 100000 miles and you need to clean out or replace your Vanos solenoids if you see smoke out your pipes at idle you need knew pcv valves bcus if you have high miles your pcv valves seal with be ripped and if sitting at idle for a period of time and you drive off and see smoke your valve seals are bad
Would this help a manual transmission
Of course not
Hi, sorry for late reply. Nope, this is only valid for automatic versions...
Does it work for VW Golf 2012?
Hi, I do not think so, this is a BMW solution...
Thank you bro
Works for e60?
Hi, usually this solution is for F series but give a try... you cannot make any bad if you try. Good luck.
Does it work for older cars? E83 for example?
Hi, sorry for late reply... nope, it is only for F series and only for Xdrive. I have no clue about E versions... sorry
Hi. My F10 gasoline. When it gets down to 2 from 3 in 1000 rpm at 20 km/h and just I push the gas pedal , it hits at first while accelarating. Not smooth accelaration. Maybe it is normal ?
Hi, could be normal a little strike is normal even more at the back shift especially around 3 (3 to 2 and 4 to 3)... but this solution solve many other symptoms as this is calibrating the entire chain...
Did you fix it? Since i have the same problem on my f10
@@learnmag no. But I drive Some 520i , 316i
, 320d. And there is the same thing on them. No error on the Ecu. I think it Can be from Oil or Selenoids.
Nothing changed on my f30
Sorry... We are not sure what is the right selection criteria but as you see below it was working for many others... :-)
Does it work for 2011 f10 550?
Change your bushings
It does work. I tried it around 30min ago also cruising and speeding it. Totally 100% better. Just me or idk maybe i wait 2 minute in car before trying and heard motor sound like solenoid or something. Maybe they trying to calibrate. The sound appear at around 1 minute and half after releasing paddle.
@@ayn30 I’m doing it in my f30 and I heard the second click as I read your comment. Hoping it works… idle and startup sound n feel great so far.
hello to e90 is it possible?
Hello, it is difficult to say it works or not, but try it and share here if this works on your car... see other comments below. The question is the software and not the type of the car... good luck.
@@gykgykbettercar I tried it earlier, it's a little smoother but there is still a fine jerk, it's very helpful thanks 👍👌
For e90 you need to turn on ignition without starting the engine ( just like in this video ) . After turning on ignition, simply press the gas pedal down completely for 30 seconds- 45 seconds and then you can start the car and the transmission will have been reset .