If you dont have a air compressor, you can use a long straw and blow hard in the hole before removing the plug. works very good. Close your eyes when blowing as dust can get in your eyes. I had a straw from Burger King that i used lol
For those who don't want a spark plug socket, I found that an ignition coil can pick the spark plug up. Simply take out the ignition coil first, then loosen the spark plug and again insert the ignition coil to the lot and a spark plug will go up with the coil. P/s: I did purchase a spark plug socket but it didn't work... so my mechanic friend told me a trick...
Very thorough. I like the way he advises to blow out debris from spark plug well. Demonstrates the useof a torque wrench ! Who uses that? Well, that's how one gets overtorqed threads that strip the head, or can't get the darn thing out five years later without stripping. I recommend two other preventive actions.Use anti seize compound on the spark plug theads (except the last 3 threads near electrode), anti seizeon the other hardware nuts/threads, and spark plug boot lube on the boots for easier future removal.Prevents tearing too.Well done video.
If you have access to compressed air it would be advisable to blow off as much dirt from the area as possible before remove the coil pack and spark plug
Couldn't agree more about the anti-seize! It's an aluminum head - you MUST use anti-seize unless you plan to never change the plugs again (because they won't be coming out ever again without damaging the threads or even snapping them off while still in the head - Doh!). You also don't torque - just gently with the two-finger method on the ratchet. Adding some dielectric grease to the coil boots will ensure good electrical contact and spark, and make it easier to remove the coils without damaging the rubber boots next time. Finally, it's always good to lube any nuts & bolts before replacing them for easier removal and less problems next time.
@@warrentom6537 Licensed and experienced technicians says otherwise. Let's start with the Triton motor and we'll move over to the Subaru motors afterwards. What they recommend don't mean it's 100% not to do. Anti-seize is not just for plugs sake. Aluminum blocks need to have it regardless.
I believe NGK and Honda recommend against using anti-sieze because it lubricates the threads, which can cause them to become tighter than they other wise would with the same amount of torque applied.
Are you supposed to add any antiseize to the spark plug threads? I see a lot of people saying you should add a small amount to the threads and some places like here showing the installation without using it?
Thank you for the video, I tried to do this but soon realized that I needed a special spark plug socket because my regular one would not fit down the hole, I wish that would have been mentioned in the video, maybe even with a link to purchase the right one.
I've read that the gap is .044 not .040 on this generation CRV Maybe it's not much of a difference to make it an issue? Just wondering...I gapped my to .044 and it fired up w/o issues.
If they're NGK iridium plugs they have antiseize applied at the factory and do not need additional compound. I still see it being applied to these plugs as well as attempts to check or adjust the gap. This unnecessary unless they have been dropped during shipping.
No. Hand tight with a ratchet(don't go hulk here), plus an additional 1/4 turn of the head, should put you ballpark at your torque specs. but usually you can tighten them past their snug fit. With experience, you can get familiar with how tight a fastener can be with how big it is, its thread design, and its head.
Yes.. you know how tight you tighten things right? So imagine what 13 ft pounds feels like and there you go. These are aluminum blocks, don't go hulking things. nothing more of 20ft pounds and thats it. Besides, these are spark plug coils and a cover, just put it on and snug them up
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If you dont have a air compressor, you can use a long straw and blow hard in the hole before removing the plug. works very good. Close your eyes when blowing as dust can get in your eyes. I had a straw from Burger King that i used lol
For those who don't want a spark plug socket, I found that an ignition coil can pick the spark plug up. Simply take out the ignition coil first, then loosen the spark plug and again insert the ignition coil to the lot and a spark plug will go up with the coil.
P/s: I did purchase a spark plug socket but it didn't work... so my mechanic friend told me a trick...
Y’all always come in clutch with these videos. Thank y’all!
Great video. Really helpful for a beginner amateur mechanic like myself. I will definitely use 1A from now on
Very thorough. I like the way he advises to blow out debris from spark plug well. Demonstrates the useof a torque wrench ! Who uses that? Well, that's how one gets overtorqed threads that strip the head, or can't get the darn thing out five years later without stripping. I recommend two other preventive actions.Use anti seize compound on the spark plug theads (except the last 3 threads near electrode), anti seizeon the other hardware nuts/threads, and spark plug boot lube on the boots for easier future removal.Prevents tearing too.Well done video.
If you have access to compressed air it would be advisable to blow off as much dirt from the area as possible before remove the coil pack and spark plug
What spark plugs do I buy for a 2005 crv truck
Honda crv
Good video. I always fix my spark plugs. Ngk IR premium plug are dope. I use 0.40 or 0.41 gap. Feels new
Thank you, your video helped me do the spark plugs on my CRV
Thank you, sir. Very helpful!
How are the cylinders numbered? Which is cylinder 1 and which is cylinder 4?
Good guide, easy to follow.
Couldn't agree more about the anti-seize! It's an aluminum head - you MUST use anti-seize unless you plan to never change the plugs again (because they won't be coming out ever again without damaging the threads or even snapping them off while still in the head - Doh!).
You also don't torque - just gently with the two-finger method on the ratchet.
Adding some dielectric grease to the coil boots will ensure good electrical contact and spark, and make it easier to remove the coils without damaging the rubber boots next time.
Finally, it's always good to lube any nuts & bolts before replacing them for easier removal and less problems next time.
+netgearsanjose123 netgear Thank you for taking the time to provide the feedback and suggestions!
NGK website recommends to not use anti-seize. ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
@@warrentom6537 Licensed and experienced technicians says otherwise. Let's start with the Triton motor and we'll move over to the Subaru motors afterwards. What they recommend don't mean it's 100% not to do. Anti-seize is not just for plugs sake. Aluminum blocks need to have it regardless.
Great video - thank you.
So helpful, thank you!
+Kayte Anderson Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for the video! Very helpful!
+Fullstop Dwe. Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
You did not put on any anti seize on the spark plug threads?
I believe NGK and Honda recommend against using anti-sieze because it lubricates the threads, which can cause them to become tighter than they other wise would with the same amount of torque applied.
Are you supposed to add any antiseize to the spark plug threads? I see a lot of people saying you should add a small amount to the threads and some places like here showing the installation without using it?
No those type spark plugs don’t need any.
It really does not matter but we do for the sake of it. Use the grey anti-sieze and just a dot or two. Don't smother the whole plug in it
Thank you for the video, I tried to do this but soon realized that I needed a special spark plug socket because my regular one would not fit down the hole, I wish that would have been mentioned in the video, maybe even with a link to purchase the right one.
+Gordon Wilson Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@ 3:17 they mention the tool you need
I've read that the gap is .044 not .040 on this generation CRV
Maybe it's not much of a difference to make it an issue? Just wondering...I gapped my to .044 and it fired up w/o issues.
True. I gap my ngk plug 0.42 and it fired so well too. Honda says 0.40 to 0.44 so it shld be fine
Does the manufacturer call for anti seize?
If they're NGK iridium plugs they have antiseize applied at the factory and do not need additional compound. I still see it being applied to these plugs as well as attempts to check or adjust the gap. This unnecessary unless they have been dropped during shipping.
How tight for spark plugs when you the wrench tight them up until able to hear click?Thanks
At 5:30 they mention 13 ft lbs with torque wrench
Thank you so much!
Did you just cleaned the coil or these are new?
Hi bro...does it need any electronic setting after the plug replacement?...for honda crz?
Do they have to be NGK, do no other brank of iridium will work?
you can also buy DENSO u can see it in the manual book they have specific replacement code there guide for you to buy
What would you do if one spark plug keeps spinning and won't come out?
Either:
1. Pull the head and repair the thread
2. Purchase one of those Triton f150 spark plug hole repair kits and use it to put it out
@@automotiveperformancemobil4030 strangle mechanic
THANKYOU!
how to remove one of the 10 mm bolts when the head has stripped?
+DC Funhouse We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
U really don't need to use a torque wrench. Carefully hand tight is good
Is there a way to know torque specs with a normal ratchet?
No. Hand tight with a ratchet(don't go hulk here), plus an additional 1/4 turn of the head, should put you ballpark at your torque specs. but usually you can tighten them past their snug fit.
With experience, you can get familiar with how tight a fastener can be with how big it is, its thread design, and its head.
Yes.. you know how tight you tighten things right? So imagine what 13 ft pounds feels like and there you go. These are aluminum blocks, don't go hulking things. nothing more of 20ft pounds and thats it. Besides, these are spark plug coils and a cover, just put it on and snug them up