How To Diagnose/Repair Stiff/Sticky Shifting On A Bike
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- I show how to figure out why the shifting on your bike is sticky on your bike. I am talking about when the shifter is harder to move than it should be. This is a common question I am asked. So I made this video. Unfortunately there is not a simple answer. There are multiple possible causes: shifters, derailleur, cables, cable housings, cable guides. I show you how to isolate the problem and how to fix it.
▶ SUBSCRIBE & HIT THE 🔔 bit.ly/SubRJThe...
👍 And please give my video a thumbs up 👍
▶FACEBOOK.com/RJTheBikeGuy
/ rjthebikeguy
▶TOOLS
www.rjthebikegu...
▶SHIRTS
bit.ly/RJBikeGu...
▶WEBPAGE
www.RJTheBikeGu...
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
What If the spring between jockey wheels is frozen ,not inwards or outwards,but up and down
Thank you so much for this, after a year of my youngest only having 3 out of her 18 speed shift gears working I have now managed to (after I’ve 3 hours!) get 15 gears now working!! I’m leaving it there as I don’t want to end up going back to 3!
Brilliant video!!
RJ, you put out some awesome videos!
Took me years of trial and error to get to a competent level of bike knowledge pre internet.
One thing I would like to add here is make sure that you install the cable correctly when you cinch it down on the rear derailleur(or any derailleur). I made the mistake many times of placing the cable on the wrong side of the cinch bolt which affects the shifting slightly.
You will see what looks like a little groove where the cable is supposed to go on higher quality derailleurs.
Sure enough, cable housing was my problem. Bought my son a used mountain bike yesterday, and spent the whole afternoon and evening messing with the derailleurs and grip shift to no avail. Watched your video and took the cable out…..yup! Gunky, rusted cable housing not allowing the cable to move freely. Going to pick up some fresh housing today. Thank you!
I I found that pure silicone spray works best without attracting a lot of dirt like some petroleum-based lubricants do 👍 I use CRC silicone lube...and it's only about 3-4 bucks a can!
Thanks for your help! Gonna check out the twist grips on the kids bikes tomorrow!
Finally after so many videos I see your face. :-) Great job buddy! I like your videos.
I'm a go ahead and click "like".
For UK / EU viewers Tri-flow equivalent is GT86, WD40 - similar type products.
Thanks again Shyflirt1 this video + the sti shifter fixing video --> How To Fix STI Shifters (Brifters) That Won't Shift
Really really saved me, my ultegra flight deck shifters, They weren't shifting at all, I replaced the cable and aswell noticed the cables were sticky, I cleaned them like you showed, and slowly it start shifting, It really made me happy, I have now a redbull pro road bike with mixed components shimano Ultegra, Dura acera, 105, not so good idea but its really an amazing bike to ride, After seeing your guides my bike is perfectly working and I can fully feel how smooth its running, and get some pretty fast speeds.
Thanks again
Cool!
Very useful video. I have two bikes with grip shifters and I'm thinking of changing one of them to rapid fire shifters.
I destroyed my derailleur on my bike, so I bought a new one and installed it. I had crappy shifting no matter how I adjusted the tension. Couple month later I found why: The housing was too short! It was ok with the old derailleur, but too short for the new one. The housing has to turn 180 degrees to fit in the derailleur, but if it's too short it's actually pulling on it and messing the indexation. So I bought new housing and new cables and now my shifting is perfect!
Excellent video ,to give your time to do this is to be commended , clear and informative ,thanks I appreciate it , I am on the bike all the time now and have become a seasoned bike mechanic self learned thanks to you tube videos like yours ,thanks again!
nice film. I have the grip shift esp 9.0 rear. The front changer is a Shimano 443 as I use 43/52/63 chainwheels for a 20// 406 drive wheel.
nice thorough guide, it would be helpful if you had linked to videos about the sections you cut out of this video.
I have a recommendation for you. Rock n Roll makes a cable specific lubricant that makes shifting and braking feel very "slippery." You explained to me that lubricant negates cable operation, however this lubricant has proven to be extremely effective (of course if you use it correctly). It's sold in a 2 oz. bottle and it is advised to drop a few drops into each piece of the housing to avoid future contamination.
Of course, you are entitled to your own techniques if you do not wish to proceed with this recommendation.
Very good tips etc from RJ .... he is like the Scotty Kilmer of Cycling !
Great demonstration straight forward and very efficient! Feel like tackling my bikes 🚲 issus right ✅ now 🤔
Always really helpful videos, thanks. My sons twist shifter moves smoothly in one direction but is really tough in the opposite direction. Any advice please?
Very good an clear video! I think mine is stuck in the handle, So I'll have to find you video how to dismantle it and try to get it right again Thank you (From Down Under)
stabbing someone.... so true!! I remember when I was a kid and in repeated times I stabbed my fingers with the cable. It hurt so bad. Anyways It's fun to watch your videos!
its right at small dog's eye level too !!
I would have started with the derailleur pivot points... if you lube them, and are still having trouble, *then* move on to the other components. I also like the "precision oilers", where you can drip the lube exactly where you want it, instead of the "aerosol blast method". Thanks for the video!
More often than not, stiff shifting is the cable/housing.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I'm lazy... I try the *easiest* thing first! ;-)
this guy is cool
I always lubricate the cable while inserting into the housing.
thanks for sharing, this is a great troubleshooting resource.
Mine is the same setup my bike is a jamis cross country trail series bike according to the company the bike is not in there system it was made between 1998 and 1999 I assume that the company had retired the cross country line of bikes to make room for newer lines of bikes it’s a very nice bike my thoughts are to change out the bearings and cups in the head tube to threadless and to put a front shock fork the crankset is an sr sun tour the wheels are sun rims z19 the front derailleur is also a shimano acera
I like that bit about using the awl.
Excellent video, thanks for posting.
thanks.good job
Very informative video. Thanks for posting.
Very nice video thanks!
My derailleur clicks, doesn't always change gear, and will sometimes change gear on its own. I checked the hanger with a Park Tool hanger adjuster, and I put in a new OptiSlick cable system, but it was still the same.
As I could see absolutely nothing with my derailleur I went for the Sl-4600 shifters, but it wasn't that. Fortunately, I was able to send them back as I hadn't used any cabling or opened any bags.
Shimano have discontinued the Rd-350-10 Derailleur, so I've bought the Tiagra 4700 shifters and derailleur, but I'm still waiting for the shifters to arrive.
The RD-350-10 must be faulty. At the knuckle, where it bolts to the hanger, there is some slight lateral play, but everything else seems fine.
I can see up inside my downtube and the cable is not snagging, and it seems free throughout. It's free in the rear wheel chainstay too.
Thanks for these great videos. I didn't know you could service the derailleur, but after seeing your videos I have the confidence to try it now, so I might have a go later today. It would be amazing to get it going.
I'm trying to do my own repairs now as I do a lot of miles and can't afford to take keep it to the shop. Plus, it's a great hobby.
My bike is 2. 5 years old Trek Fx4 sport, flat handlebar, rim brake, hybrid Road Bike. 2 x10 Speed . A great bike. My local bike shop have adjusted my gears several times too at servicing. But I do my own servicing now.
th-cam.com/video/gwBQxhZhKnE/w-d-xo.html
do i have to put a ferral a.k.a (hose end cap) on every end, include the part that go inside the sti?? thanks
Generally yes. If a ferrule will fit , use one.
Hey I have a 7 speed rear Derailleur the same company and the same brand mine is a shimano yes sir
Когда в начале ролика перерезал трос -- у меня ёкнуло сердце!
Good job! RJ where did you learn how to fix bikes so well?
Practice, experience, reading, studying, etc, etc. Been working on bikes for many years. Still learning.
Hi RJ. If you were to install cables on a high-end bike and you wanted the best longevity, what would you choose and would you do anything special? I'm about to try uncoated stainless shimano cables and grease them with some paraffin wax lube. I'm also interested in shimano optislick that people say is amazing. Ever tried that? Thx for a great channel.
Hey mate thats sounds like a great idea! did paraffin work out for long term?
@@rossg9363 I can't say for sure. I used chain wax lube on the cables and it kind of started to bind after about a year (maybe it was because of winter and how low temperatures make wax hard?). Might work better in hot climates. Anyway, I found a guy online that sells syringes with shimano cable grease (so you don't have to buy a whole expensive can). I use that now with stainless steel cables. That works for me as a base install. However, as much as I don't like the idea of coated cables losing their coating and becoming messy, a friend's Shimano duraace cable kit is still smooth as butter (after it started looking like crap), so many years later. (He asked me if he should swap cables after 5 years and I checked them out. Still freaking smooth. I was afraid I'd make them worse basically.) But you DON'T want to have to take it apart because if you frey or kink something it's a lot of money. So if you're going for longevity for a long term install, try the duraace kits. Otherwise stainless steel cables and shimano cable grease.
@@rossg9363 Actually if you get new Shimano standard OP41 shift housing, it comes with the grease inside of it. If you take it apart, you might want to regrease. For noname housing better use some grease.
@@mikeh6286 sweet mate ill 👀 into that now thanks👍
@@mikeh6286 just bought this "Shimano Advanced OT-SP41 OPTISLICK MTB Shifting Cable Set" the sheath you said with optislick inner cable 🤘👍 very nice!
Hello RJ, great video you have here. I have question. I have some problem with a grip shifter which is similar to the one shown here. The problem is that when I try to shift lower gear the grip shifter is very tight and sometimes impossible to shift. Shifting to upper gear is smooth however. It would be great if you could give your thoughts on what might be the problem. Up to this point I've changed cables, lubricated derailers and the shifters.
Did you replace the cable housings?
@@RJTheBikeGuy Could that be the problem? I have not changed it into new ones yet but I applied some lubricants inside the housing and the cables. It did not seem to effect the tightness of the shifter abit.
@@zzxz9008 Yes! Go through the video. The stiffness will be derailleur, or cable/housing, or shifter. Isolate it, fix it.
Can you link the video of how you open/lube specifically your grip shifter? Can’t seem to find them. TIA!
th-cam.com/video/2pCr5zH7kBg/w-d-xo.html
thankyou alot much appreciated
Happy, happy
Please put links to your other videos you referenced. Or maybe say what they are named.
Which videos?
I'm not really a bike guy, I've always had a natural and strong interest in all things mechanical. So bikes should pose an interest, right? Only reason why I never got into them was because I always had the cheapest, oldest and usually most dangerous (none working brakes, loose tyres and chains). Plus I usually was given a girls bike and at a young age ones peers would remind you of that fact very often. Although once in a while I'd get a bike that I really liked. I remember one such one bright red, very low and kinda wide. It was 'fat', the construction wasn't normal, the main tube was really fat and doubled, it also had a lot of chrome and best off all it had fat white walled michelin tyres. It was also really fast. Anyway back on topic, I was given a bike which I slowly fixed. I've only just started to look at the gears. Same style shifter as the one in your clip but they won't move at all. I've tried a few things and everything looks smooth and lubed. The actual grip shift is also nice and ratchetity, without the cable. I've tried quite a few things but as soon as the cable joins the shift it simply won't turn. Funny thing is I get how this all works, I slowly got to grips with the upper and lower restriction screw and guide position. I even fixed the 3 cog part on the pedals which had a similar issue. It's not too important, I use this bike just for my dog. He loves to run and I feel safer with him on a lead. He has good recall but some areas are huge and filled with runners. Also the bike is very resistive, feels like I'm going uphill all the time. I thought it might be the brakes touching but they don't, tyres are pumped hard and it's not like the bike slows down really fast after pedalling but it does slow down. The rider in front wasn't pedalling but was managing to get away even though I was turning at a medium speed, I thought electric but it wasn't.
Love it
Hey RJ,
On a road bike with the shifting in the brake lever, what does it mean if you have to hold the brake lever with your thumb while you push on the smaller lever (shift down to a smaller cog) to get it to shift?
Thanks,
Blake
One modern integrated brake.shift levers, there are two levers. The brake lever and a smaller lever behind it. They both push the the side. Push the brake lever in to shift up to the bigger gear, and the smaller lever to shift to the smaller gear. I generally don;t have to hold the brake lever, just press the smaller lever.
great
thannnnkkkk youuu
hehe that would be awesome if Park Tool sent you some tools! I'm sure they like watching your videos too!
Hey I know that this is a older video but at this moment i have teflon oil would that be good for lubricating derailleurs and cables?
Or should I go and buy multi purpose bike oil?
For the derailleurs I usually use Tri Flo or Finish Line Wet chain lube. I don't lubricate cables. Modern cable housings have a plastic lining that allows the cable to slide through. Lubricants can be counter productive. I recommend replacing the cables/housings if they are sticking.
What Pedals are you using on this Bike ?
What if it gets harder to twist the grip shifter?
I like to wax cables ! :) Like a coat of Turtlewax ! I don`t think waxing cables helps much But It damn sure don`t hurt !Anyhow :)
Do you also apply clear coat? xD
I recon I ought to just cut them ! Like the captain here ! I do not like to destroy parts that might be good !
Ought to find the problem and fix just what is wrong !
what size hex driver did you use? are they all the same size? when i set it, is 1 the big gear or the smallest?
+Myria no I don't remember what size I used. I am guessing 5mm. 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm wrenches are common for bikes. Also 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm for some stuff. Usually 1 (on the shifters) is the smallest ring on the front and the biggest cog on the back.
thank you! incredible how i looked like i knew what i was doing! the gear won't slip onto the biggest cog in the back. any suggestions?
Maybe cable adjustment. Maybe limiting screws. Maybe bent deraileur/hanger. Maybe the derailleur isn't designed for that many gears... many possibilities.
i was afraid of that. i tried the cable and limiting screws; i'm going to get local hands on help in case it is a bent part. thank you so much :)
I’m enjoying the bike so far th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Thank you, just a shame I didn't find this 24 hours ago
it is now moving but no shifting both gears i have grip gears solution
th-cam.com/video/gwBQxhZhKnE/w-d-xo.html
can I use wd-40 instead?
+Ivan Kristoffer Antonino WD-40 is NOT a good lubricant. It is mostly a solvent with a little bit of oil.
What makes a clicking sound when I peddle my mountain bike. Is it my derailer?
jackie kuang Sorry, but phantom noises can be way too many things to list: bottom bracket, cranks, chain, freewheel, hub, etc, etc. You just need to start going through bike and find the source of the noise.
Thanks RJ The Bike Guy, and I have one more question. My bike rim is always in need of truing and I hate how I always need to do it myself. Usually it is on my front tire now its on both. Should I get a new bike?
jackie kuang That is up to you. Are you riding it rough, or is it a cheap bike?
It could be that its a cheap bike.
jackie kuang Cheap bikes do have lower quality components that will flex more and are built to lower tolerances.
Shimano acera
Sir my gear box is not shifting from 4 to 3 till the lowest what to do
th-cam.com/video/gwBQxhZhKnE/w-d-xo.html
Why not show the complete diagnosis process first before cutting the cable
Because most times the issue is the cable. Cables wear and should be replaced occasionally anyway!
R
👍🌹
Dear park tool,
Please send free tools to RJ the bike Guy.
This ain't a smart bike fixing video. Just like a person can't move his leg then you cut or operate his leg first. Then found out it is stroke rather machanic problem.