The adjustment board uses two trimmer potentiometers to make it look like the joystick is centered (basically an offset). It isn't a permanent solution, but it allows you to offset the axes once again if the stick starts to drift. Never knew these boards existed. It's a pretty smart and cheap solution to the problem before hall effect sensor joysticks become cheap and widespread.
The original ps3 sixaxis controller is cheap hall-effect controller, hall-effect sensor has been around for a long time (we're talking the 80's here with hall-effect keyboard), and they're cheap but not as common as potentiometer
The real fix is to use Hall Effect sensors instead of potentiometers. Unfortunately those don't exist (yet?) for Playstation controllers of any generation, but Gulikit makes some pretty awesome controllers that have them which are compatible with everything else.
@@taroven it should not be obsolete. xinput is horrible and it's just a way for microsoft to push their xbox controllers. i'm currently reading the hid and pid documentation so i can hopefully avoid this crap. also, completely ditching directinput is a horrible move since many old games and controllers rely on it.
For soldering, put a little solder on your iron, and touch the metals with that solder. It makes heat transfer better thus making it accept solder more easly. Then add more solder to the solder joints.
What's funny is hall effect sensor technology was used for the analog sticks AND the analog triggers all the way back on the Sega Dreamcast. That means that back then it was somewhat affordable, at least to the point that it was economical to have hall effect sensors in the final product. As far as I know, it hasn't been used since. It's kinda upsetting because clearly that's one of the best ways to prevent wear and tear on the joysticks since there's no physical contact like with potentiometers, and it was at least _somewhat_ affordable.
I'm sure it works well if you have a dead spot in a particular place. Unfortunately my Elite II sticks in different places depending on which way I let go of the stick. If I hold up and let go it drifts down, if I hold down and let go it drifts up. Not always either. In any case this will only help if it always drifts the same way.
@minute Maid I had the same problem with the bumpers as well. It was actually quite easy to fix, just had to take the front off and pick any fluff/debris where the bumper presses the button. It goes bad again, but it's not too hard to get back in. Could also be a bad button though.
Don't heat the solder, heat the pad/post you are soldering and "poke" it with the solder. You should also be using flux to help the solder flow/stick where it is suppose to
A tip for those soldering the board onto the back, 'add' solder droplet onto each spot first to make it nice and chunky, so you cover all the position for it. Then put the board on top after the solder cools and hardens a little, and 'heat up each of the little holes rapidly one by one while using something to push the board down. If you do it correctly the melted solder will 'loosen' and fuse with the board while you are pushing it down... Be sure the solder doesn't leak out in between the board though.
Thanks for the info, I’ve been cheaping out by buying a cheap lightning to usb on my ps3 controller and I experienced the problem with my right analog.
This is really cool. I will note and he may say this, but you will eventually get to a point where the modules need replaced because it will eventually become nonfunctional by creating a massive dead zone. It’s a bandage not a fit. Still really cool. Also the parts cost a little less than replacement sticks so not as great cost wise.
I do have to say though, you should really consider a new soldering iron, the Hakko FX-951 is a lot better for small repairs because you can get extremely tiny tips with a lot better thermal conductivity
True but it might be better to go for one of the many JBC clones that are available now. Cheaper, better performance, and you can use genuine JBC cartridges (tips) with them. Tips last a really long time as they automatically go into standby mode when the handle is put in its holder. They automatically turn back on when you pick up the hand piece and heat up to soldering temperature before you have time to get the tip and solder to the joint, just a couple of seconds. But the honest truth is that for basic soldering like this, just get any other tip for your existing iron that isn't a microscopic needle-shaped conical tip. Go for a chisel or bevel and get a few sizes. Just use the biggest tip you can that will still allow you to get to the pads and pins you want to solder. The parts pads and pins that are to be soldered need to reach a temperature that the solder will melt, so a bigger surface area will transfer the heat more efficiently to the pad/pin and a larger tip has more heat capacity as those old school irons don't get the heat from the heater to the tip very efficiently compared with the newer style ones discussed above. The extra heat capacity of a bigger tip will make up for the lower efficiency of the heater/tip by enough to make the job easier.
My Meta Quest 2 controllers have terrible drift to the point where I’ve cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol 5 times, doesn’t do anything. I do not have any ifixit tools yet so ill watch this when i do
a month ago I repaired a stick drift from my old Xbox 360 controller. I simply replaced the potentiometer entirely, the piece costed me just 0,83 €. so it was much cheaper than this method and I didn't need to mess with a recalibration software. the downside is that I had to de-solder 17 points in order to remove the old potentiometer (14 from the potentiometer and another 3 from a different component that was in the way) so it took a lot more time than just soldering without having to desolder first, but it was a nice experience.
The drifting stick is actually common on PS Vita, and someone actually fix one IIRC, with bunch of paper. Yes, paper. Basically he added few papers to the back of the sticks so there's some pressure on the back. Another solution that I come across is people actually blast these sticks with contact cleaner. Not even open the damn console. The idea was there's dust trapped inside so you need to blow it out. One of the safe way to do it with contact cleaner that comes in a pressured can.
the problem with that fix is the potentiometer which gets worn out, dirty, etc. That board will change their readings, but with time it will keep getting worse and the stick will start to give wrong readings! and I guess when aiming it won't be precise anymore, because even if you reset the dead center, the potentiometer itself has been degraded with time and will go crazy as soon as you move the stick.
yea it happened to my brother sadly. when he got his camo xbox one controller, the strangest part about it was that stick drift already affected it when we got it. either it was damaged in shipping or the part malfunctioned.
The cure would be some Hall effects sticks the steam deck has some third party ones you can easily install but I’m unaware if any exist for Xbox/PlayStation/Nintendo or if you can install any without heavy modding
@Muhammad Al-Barwani for the switch joycons? Makes sense it’s been having bad stick drift issues for years and those are pretty similar to the steam deck thumbsticks….I just wish they made some for PlayStation and Xbox….I’d love to have them on mine I’ve heard they more accurate with less or no dead zones that plus mechanical keyboard style switches on a console controller implemented in a comfortable and functional manner would be awesome….I’m a pc gamer but I’m platform agnostic and those switches after feeling them on a keyboard I just feel that they would feel amazing for a console controller it’s Much better and gives better feedback than the mushy membrane switches
The stick drift was so bad on my ps4 controller it was unusable. I took apart the controller and open the little box thing on the joy stick with a small disc inside and blow in it and that fix the stick drift for the most part. There was still a little bit of drift but i could still play games with no issue
And yes this is not a permanent solution but it'll probably double or triple the lifespan of each replacement module you buy to replace them. For about $3~6 per board, or cheaper if you buy em in bulk, you can reuse them as many times as you need, even if you desolder and installed new sticks on top. The boards you buy is meant for Dualshock 4 though, note that on the PS5 the red and black wires crosses under the board, on Dualshock 4 it's not under it. At the very least it'll extend the life of a gamepad until you get hall effect parts or save up for those parts. For the DIY enthusiasts, maybe you can install a 'adjustable' knob on the back of the case facing the screw hole, OR just simply and carefully use a soldering iron to 'melt' the hole precisely over those spots and use something to close it up when you are done adjusting.
For minor drift, this is the best solution. The drift will slowly get worse and eventually you’ll actually have to fix or replace the potentiometer. But for $6, it should buy you a lot of time and is still nice to have after if you manage to successfully repair or replace the component anyway.
Yo I bought a ps5 controller from a pawn shop and had stick drift lol all you gotta do is pop the analog off then there’s to green place caps you pop off and clean the sensor. No need for all of that.
You know I've got Nintendo 64 controllers, GameCube controllers and Xbox 360 controller PlayStation 1 controllers. None of them have ever had a stick drift issue. What is going on lately with joy sticks?
As a member of the Comment Reading Association (CRA), I’m only here to read comments. Please keep the comments short and simple. We do appreciate your typing effort. Also please watch your spelling. Thank you and have a great day!
For Nintendo switch For some reason, the Joy-Con Drift (The stick Drift of The Joy-Con Controller) can be solved by a single piece of cardboard without soldering.
Love the vids but as you mentioned, your a little new to soldering. I just wanna say you did a pretty good job(as long as the joints dont touch) but just a good little pointer. You dont have to use as much solder as you were. Using less solder not only can keep from accidentally soldering multiple joints, it also just keeps your solder around for longer. Again love the videos and keep up the entertainment ❤️
L3 and R3 pressing while using L and R for moving and aiming is the culprits, i have tested this out one controller had L3 mapped as run and the other didn't...and the one L3 is mapped as run that was drifting after 4 months...the other one still works fine...
Anyone with some skill can make a mint fixing stick drift. I have 2 ps4 3 xbox and 1 ps5 controllers with drift. I've switched out a couple of joycon sticks which was fairly easy. Tried a ps4 controller and failed miserably lol. Just recently got back 2 other joycons back from nintendo repair for drift for free.
I have a question... is a lack of input registration (specifically putting the left stick forward doesn't register sometimes) caused by the same issue as stick drift? And can it therefore be fixed by the same thing?
I’ve got a stick drift on my Xbox one controller and there’s an issue with the back to the back cover when you click it on where the batteries are just not closing and yeah so my batteries also died so I don’t really keep it on just plug it in with a charger or something into my Xbox one but I also was stick drifting in Minecraft. I like onto Minecraft and sometimes my like my view camera like the one that you use it to move your camera around it stick drifting.
I actually think that iPhones might have reverse wireless charging from the iPhone 12-14 because you can charge the MagSafe battery pack with the lighting port on the iPhone
Why do I have PS2 and an Xbox 360 controller with thousands of hours on them and no stick drift? On the Xbox controller I even wore out the button membranes and had to replace them. Something has gone south in these components of the recent generations.
No shit. Thats an easy fix. Didnt kniw these are a thing. I have a controller with stickdrift. Havent touched the thing for two years probably because back then you had to replace the whole potenciometer and after that calibrate the whole controller with a special tool. I was like its not worth it. But THIS! Nice vid. Thanks Bro!
You can buy x2 analogue sticks for £4.50. Install is not much further than what you have done and the part is cheaper per unit. Plus this will fail more quickly. It is more affordable to replace the analogue stick entirely :)
But does this actually adjust the "area of movement"? If the joystick is off centre, and max input goes further right and less left, does this make it able to adjust it so it goes equally right and left? And if so, does it make the max input less?
I've had my Xbox controller for 6 years and doesn't have drift. BUT my switch that I've had for like 2 years had horrible drift and I've bought another pair. Damn
I’ve used these and they are helpful but I wouldn’t say it’s a cure or really a fix at all. The real fix is the Hal effect sensors which I hope don’t and Microsoft eventually go to since these controllers are just getting more expensive. Especially the pro lone controllers
Dude you gotta fix a steam deck on a video lol you forgot about it in this video and the tinkering is really fun in the steam deck cuz it's actually MADE to be taken apart. Probably a refreshing change for you lol
How well would this work on a c40 astro controller that you can remove the analog sticks or would it just be better to buy a whole new analog stick to the the bad one?😅
Bro got scammed. The range of motion on your sticks will be severely limited and you’ll still need to replace the pot once the carbon track has disintegrated.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004122483308.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.37d21802JXA1Nb
Hi
Hi again
Hi again again
Hi
Hi again
The adjustment board uses two trimmer potentiometers to make it look like the joystick is centered (basically an offset). It isn't a permanent solution, but it allows you to offset the axes once again if the stick starts to drift. Never knew these boards existed. It's a pretty smart and cheap solution to the problem before hall effect sensor joysticks become cheap and widespread.
isnt it easier to change the pottie alone instead of that?
@@ed9...5 what pottie? You mean the glue
The original ps3 sixaxis controller is cheap hall-effect controller, hall-effect sensor has been around for a long time (we're talking the 80's here with hall-effect keyboard), and they're cheap but not as common as potentiometer
@@meric12131415 pottie is a term for tri-legged potentiometer
@@meric12131415 he means the litter box
The intro was the best 30 seconds of my life
Lol
It was intense😅
Your life must be daft lol
This comment deserves way more likes
@@XxaexxeaxX no
The real fix is to use Hall Effect sensors instead of potentiometers. Unfortunately those don't exist (yet?) for Playstation controllers of any generation, but Gulikit makes some pretty awesome controllers that have them which are compatible with everything else.
Sega used hall effect sensors in the dreamcast controller…
@@jale05x They sure did and those sticks never drifted :)
@@hollow314 I own one and it works great as both a PC and Switch controller. DInput is pretty much obsolete anyway.
Gulikit is going to be selling Nintendo switch sticks that you can swap in on the original controllers!
@@taroven it should not be obsolete. xinput is horrible and it's just a way for microsoft to push their xbox controllers. i'm currently reading the hid and pid documentation so i can hopefully avoid this crap. also, completely ditching directinput is a horrible move since many old games and controllers rely on it.
“We’ll hit this phone with an unscrew…”
My, how phones have changed! 🤣
3:30 💀💀💀🤣
ikr my guy went "now well hit this phone with a unscrew
I was gonna write a comment about it lol
@@robalox2355me to
i thought it said foam
let's all agree it's a good day when prg uploads a long video
YOUR A IMPOSTER
@@MrPropperYT hiw
How*
@@doodle9 YOUR STEWIE LOIS PETTER AT 3 AM!1!1!1!!!
@@MrPropperYT YE I KIL
Congrats on the 3 million man… Very well deserved! 🙌🏻
3:30 is the undeniable proof, that you fixed too many phones
Lol
For soldering, put a little solder on your iron, and touch the metals with that solder. It makes heat transfer better thus making it accept solder more easly. Then add more solder to the solder joints.
or better is to use some flux
The intro was to relatable i started to cry 😭💔
I play on mobile and pc no console so felt bad for those who have consoles 😢😭👃
What's funny is hall effect sensor technology was used for the analog sticks AND the analog triggers all the way back on the Sega Dreamcast. That means that back then it was somewhat affordable, at least to the point that it was economical to have hall effect sensors in the final product. As far as I know, it hasn't been used since. It's kinda upsetting because clearly that's one of the best ways to prevent wear and tear on the joysticks since there's no physical contact like with potentiometers, and it was at least _somewhat_ affordable.
I don't have any of these but I'm still watching this for the knowledge.
I'm sure it works well if you have a dead spot in a particular place. Unfortunately my Elite II sticks in different places depending on which way I let go of the stick. If I hold up and let go it drifts down, if I hold down and let go it drifts up. Not always either. In any case this will only help if it always drifts the same way.
@minute Maid I had the same problem with the bumpers as well. It was actually quite easy to fix, just had to take the front off and pick any fluff/debris where the bumper presses the button. It goes bad again, but it's not too hard to get back in. Could also be a bad button though.
Don't heat the solder, heat the pad/post you are soldering and "poke" it with the solder.
You should also be using flux to help the solder flow/stick where it is suppose to
I bet he had issues when he closed the controller because of this 😂
Could u perhaps dumb it down for me cause I just bought everything I need for this and don’t want to do anything wrong and I don’t understand wym
Use some flux when soldering mate. Helps a heap. 👍😎
A tip for those soldering the board onto the back, 'add' solder droplet onto each spot first to make it nice and chunky, so you cover all the position for it.
Then put the board on top after the solder cools and hardens a little, and 'heat up each of the little holes rapidly one by one while using something to push the board down. If you do it correctly the melted solder will 'loosen' and fuse with the board while you are pushing it down... Be sure the solder doesn't leak out in between the board though.
Thanks for the info, I’ve been cheaping out by buying a cheap lightning to usb on my ps3 controller and I experienced the problem with my right analog.
This is really cool. I will note and he may say this, but you will eventually get to a point where the modules need replaced because it will eventually become nonfunctional by creating a massive dead zone. It’s a bandage not a fit. Still really cool. Also the parts cost a little less than replacement sticks so not as great cost wise.
I do have to say though, you should really consider a new soldering iron, the Hakko FX-951 is a lot better for small repairs because you can get extremely tiny tips with a lot better thermal conductivity
Thanks for the tip!
True but it might be better to go for one of the many JBC clones that are available now. Cheaper, better performance, and you can use genuine JBC cartridges (tips) with them. Tips last a really long time as they automatically go into standby mode when the handle is put in its holder. They automatically turn back on when you pick up the hand piece and heat up to soldering temperature before you have time to get the tip and solder to the joint, just a couple of seconds.
But the honest truth is that for basic soldering like this, just get any other tip for your existing iron that isn't a microscopic needle-shaped conical tip. Go for a chisel or bevel and get a few sizes. Just use the biggest tip you can that will still allow you to get to the pads and pins you want to solder. The parts pads and pins that are to be soldered need to reach a temperature that the solder will melt, so a bigger surface area will transfer the heat more efficiently to the pad/pin and a larger tip has more heat capacity as those old school irons don't get the heat from the heater to the tip very efficiently compared with the newer style ones discussed above. The extra heat capacity of a bigger tip will make up for the lower efficiency of the heater/tip by enough to make the job easier.
Telephone Renovation Whizz. I love this guy.
There are better alternatives than such a circuit board, namely magnetic potentiometers, manufacturers like GuliKit do something like that
My Meta Quest 2 controllers have terrible drift to the point where I’ve cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol 5 times, doesn’t do anything. I do not have any ifixit tools yet so ill watch this when i do
a month ago I repaired a stick drift from my old Xbox 360 controller. I simply replaced the potentiometer entirely, the piece costed me just 0,83 €. so it was much cheaper than this method and I didn't need to mess with a recalibration software. the downside is that I had to de-solder 17 points in order to remove the old potentiometer (14 from the potentiometer and another 3 from a different component that was in the way) so it took a lot more time than just soldering without having to desolder first, but it was a nice experience.
The drifting stick is actually common on PS Vita, and someone actually fix one IIRC, with bunch of paper.
Yes, paper. Basically he added few papers to the back of the sticks so there's some pressure on the back.
Another solution that I come across is people actually blast these sticks with contact cleaner. Not even open the damn console. The idea was there's dust trapped inside so you need to blow it out. One of the safe way to do it with contact cleaner that comes in a pressured can.
the problem with that fix is the potentiometer which gets worn out, dirty, etc. That board will change their readings, but with time it will keep getting worse and the stick will start to give wrong readings! and I guess when aiming it won't be precise anymore, because even if you reset the dead center, the potentiometer itself has been degraded with time and will go crazy as soon as you move the stick.
Placed order for this drift fix mod, hope is a long term solution
yea it happened to my brother sadly. when he got his camo xbox one controller, the strangest part about it was that stick drift already affected it when we got it. either it was damaged in shipping or the part malfunctioned.
Man of 2022❤️
I had a Xbox360 and used it a lot. I never had stick drift. Those controllers were awsome
I got joycon drift on my switch and basically buyer the entire moving thing dor less than 8 dollars us and I completely fixed it easily on amazon
The cure would be some Hall effects sticks the steam deck has some third party ones you can easily install but I’m unaware if any exist for Xbox/PlayStation/Nintendo or if you can install any without heavy modding
@Muhammad Al-Barwani for the switch joycons? Makes sense it’s been having bad stick drift issues for years and those are pretty similar to the steam deck thumbsticks….I just wish they made some for PlayStation and Xbox….I’d love to have them on mine I’ve heard they more accurate with less or no dead zones that plus mechanical keyboard style switches on a console controller implemented in a comfortable and functional manner would be awesome….I’m a pc gamer but I’m platform agnostic and those switches after feeling them on a keyboard I just feel that they would feel amazing for a console controller it’s Much better and gives better feedback than the mushy membrane switches
3:32 hit the phone with a unscrew 😂💀
More like 3:30 you need a couple seconds at least before the actual thing you wanna show.
@@GuardianTiger nobody gives a fuck
3:30 fixing a phone are we.. that reflex really kicking in there haha
One of my PS4 controllers has stick drift. It has a Final Fantasy XV sticker cover on it. I have stick drift on the left analog stick.
The stick drift was so bad on my ps4 controller it was unusable. I took apart the controller and open the little box thing on the joy stick with a small disc inside and blow in it and that fix the stick drift for the most part. There was still a little bit of drift but i could still play games with no issue
3:30 “ we are going to hit this PHONE with unscrew”😂😂 bro it’s controlla
And yes this is not a permanent solution but it'll probably double or triple the lifespan of each replacement module you buy to replace them.
For about $3~6 per board, or cheaper if you buy em in bulk, you can reuse them as many times as you need, even if you desolder and installed new sticks on top.
The boards you buy is meant for Dualshock 4 though, note that on the PS5 the red and black wires crosses under the board, on Dualshock 4 it's not under it.
At the very least it'll extend the life of a gamepad until you get hall effect parts or save up for those parts.
For the DIY enthusiasts, maybe you can install a 'adjustable' knob on the back of the case facing the screw hole, OR just simply and carefully use a soldering iron to 'melt' the hole precisely over those spots and use something to close it up when you are done adjusting.
For minor drift, this is the best solution.
The drift will slowly get worse and eventually you’ll actually have to fix or replace the potentiometer. But for $6, it should buy you a lot of time and is still nice to have after if you manage to successfully repair or replace the component anyway.
They all need to start using hall effect sensors. Btw, why don’t you replace the potentiometer? It’s super easy.
My favorite fix is still buying a new controller
I had a switch joy con with stick drift. I just bought a new joystick and repaired it. Now it works perfectly again
I've had my 360 controller for years and it's been great I'm gonna stick it up to poor QC
Hey I recommend DS4 Windows it’s a window that u can use to test on a Ps4 controller
I did ibnew today it took about 5 minutes, luckily I didn't have to adjust just installing it base lined it
Yo I bought a ps5 controller from a pawn shop and had stick drift lol all you gotta do is pop the analog off then there’s to green place caps you pop off and clean the sensor. No need for all of that.
hey dude, try repairing dslr cameras too! I really wanted to see!
Do we add magsafe to this phone? 3:30 😆 The intro was hilarious.
You know I've got Nintendo 64 controllers, GameCube controllers and Xbox 360 controller PlayStation 1 controllers. None of them have ever had a stick drift issue. What is going on lately with joy sticks?
We love your content bro ❤
This basically a band-aids on gun shot wound, if the potentiometers completely wear out u will still need a replacement stick or new potentiometer
As a member of the Comment Reading Association (CRA), I’m only here to read comments. Please keep the comments short and simple. We do appreciate your typing effort. Also please watch your spelling. Thank you and have a great day!
and for the Ps4 best fix is 100k ohm smd pots :). I just bought me a 12$ controller on ebay with drift n did another fix in preparations for mw3 :)
For Nintendo switch For some reason, the Joy-Con Drift (The stick Drift of The Joy-Con Controller) can be solved by a single piece of cardboard without soldering.
"Hit this Phone with an unscrew" 😅😂
Love the vids but as you mentioned, your a little new to soldering. I just wanna say you did a pretty good job(as long as the joints dont touch) but just a good little pointer. You dont have to use as much solder as you were. Using less solder not only can keep from accidentally soldering multiple joints, it also just keeps your solder around for longer. Again love the videos and keep up the entertainment ❤️
Thank god for this video man
I can’t even use one of my Xbox controllers because the stick drift is up and down so it’s impossible to play and it only lasted a couple weeks
ReaLated to controls there is a ton of modifications YOU CAN DO WITH THE COMPANY EXTREMERATE.
Now we have cheap Hall effect sticks that can cheaply replace these, you should do a video on that.
Fyi its going to drift quickly i would add the board after replaceing the stick
How about circularity with this fix?
I was expecting him to say “get that crunch” when he began to put it back together, but nope. 😆
L3 and R3 pressing while using L and R for moving and aiming is the culprits, i have tested this out one controller had L3 mapped as run and the other didn't...and the one L3 is mapped as run that was drifting after 4 months...the other one still works fine...
you have saved all of controllerkind
Thanks
Anyone with some skill can make a mint fixing stick drift. I have 2 ps4 3 xbox and 1 ps5 controllers with drift. I've switched out a couple of joycon sticks which was fairly easy. Tried a ps4 controller and failed miserably lol. Just recently got back 2 other joycons back from nintendo repair for drift for free.
I have a question... is a lack of input registration (specifically putting the left stick forward doesn't register sometimes) caused by the same issue as stick drift?
And can it therefore be fixed by the same thing?
3:29 "now we will hit this phone witha unscrew"
Force of habit 😂
@@PhoneRepairGuru haha yes 😅
@@PhoneRepairGuru😂😂😂😂 hahahahaha
I’ve got a stick drift on my Xbox one controller and there’s an issue with the back to the back cover when you click it on where the batteries are just not closing and yeah so my batteries also died so I don’t really keep it on just plug it in with a charger or something into my Xbox one but I also was stick drifting in Minecraft. I like onto Minecraft and sometimes my like my view camera like the one that you use it to move your camera around it stick drifting.
Steam Deck, AYN Odin Pro, Analogue Pocket, Retroid Pocket 2+, ONEXPlayer, AYA Neo Next and a few more.
what happens later on? at some point you'll need to remove it as the adjustment will only go so far.
I actually think that iPhones might have reverse wireless charging from the iPhone 12-14 because you can charge the MagSafe battery pack with the lighting port on the iPhone
3:30 “Now we’ll hit this phone with an unscrew” got me chuckling 🤭
Why do I have PS2 and an Xbox 360 controller with thousands of hours on them and no stick drift? On the Xbox controller I even wore out the button membranes and had to replace them. Something has gone south in these components of the recent generations.
No shit. Thats an easy fix. Didnt kniw these are a thing. I have a controller with stickdrift. Havent touched the thing for two years probably because back then you had to replace the whole potenciometer and after that calibrate the whole controller with a special tool. I was like its not worth it. But THIS! Nice vid. Thanks Bro!
You can buy x2 analogue sticks for £4.50. Install is not much further than what you have done and the part is cheaper per unit. Plus this will fail more quickly. It is more affordable to replace the analogue stick entirely :)
saga figured out how to prevent stick drift around 20 years ago its so sad that companies have to cheep out so stick drift is still a thing
I wonder why they don't just use hall sensors instead of potentiometers? Would eliminate this issue.
I’ve gone through many Xbox controllers I’ve used a lot and I’ve never experienced that
400 hours 😂 it took my controller two weeks of flying the oppressor mk2 upside down too get stick drift 😢
Love the vids
broo wtf this is crazy i literally looked this up yesterday and you post this video today you looking at my search history?
But does this actually adjust the "area of movement"? If the joystick is off centre, and max input goes further right and less left, does this make it able to adjust it so it goes equally right and left? And if so, does it make the max input less?
3:30 He said ´´ We hit this Phone with a unscrew´´ but its a controller
I've had my Xbox controller for 6 years and doesn't have drift. BUT my switch that I've had for like 2 years had horrible drift and I've bought another pair. Damn
Can you post more of these types of videos they are awesome
I’ve used these and they are helpful but I wouldn’t say it’s a cure or really a fix at all. The real fix is the Hal effect sensors which I hope don’t and Microsoft eventually go to since these controllers are just getting more expensive. Especially the pro lone controllers
3:30 This is a Controller, not a Phone.
Just replace the potentiometer or Analog stick
Since you have to solder anyway, wouldn't be better to change the potentiometer?
Dude you gotta fix a steam deck on a video lol you forgot about it in this video and the tinkering is really fun in the steam deck cuz it's actually MADE to be taken apart. Probably a refreshing change for you lol
Can you try it with a hall sensor, like in the Old controllers?
You could just keep upping the dead-zone of the controller so the little drift doesn’t register and its free too
I have a controller that stays in the middle then slowly shifts down
So I don't think offsetting it would fix it
For the steam deck... Just replace the joysticks with magnetic ones
How well would this work on a c40 astro controller that you can remove the analog sticks or would it just be better to buy a whole new analog stick to the the bad one?😅
im buying it right now
Bro got scammed. The range of motion on your sticks will be severely limited and you’ll still need to replace the pot once the carbon track has disintegrated.
My friend has stick drift on his oculus controller and we played Pavlov Shack together and it was horrendous
I really like your video bro😍
The Thumbnail looks like a RC car