The adjustment board uses two trimmer potentiometers to make it look like the joystick is centered (basically an offset). It isn't a permanent solution, but it allows you to offset the axes once again if the stick starts to drift. Never knew these boards existed. It's a pretty smart and cheap solution to the problem before hall effect sensor joysticks become cheap and widespread.
The original ps3 sixaxis controller is cheap hall-effect controller, hall-effect sensor has been around for a long time (we're talking the 80's here with hall-effect keyboard), and they're cheap but not as common as potentiometer
The real fix is to use Hall Effect sensors instead of potentiometers. Unfortunately those don't exist (yet?) for Playstation controllers of any generation, but Gulikit makes some pretty awesome controllers that have them which are compatible with everything else.
@@taroven it should not be obsolete. xinput is horrible and it's just a way for microsoft to push their xbox controllers. i'm currently reading the hid and pid documentation so i can hopefully avoid this crap. also, completely ditching directinput is a horrible move since many old games and controllers rely on it.
I bought an inexpensive wired controller. Stick drift was always a problem. Not worrying about warranty, I opened it up and discovered the circuit board still had globs of solder flux around the pots and elsewhere. So I sprayed it with rubbing alcohol, scrubbed it with an old toothbrush, and reassembled it. Now it works perfectly.
What's funny is hall effect sensor technology was used for the analog sticks AND the analog triggers all the way back on the Sega Dreamcast. That means that back then it was somewhat affordable, at least to the point that it was economical to have hall effect sensors in the final product. As far as I know, it hasn't been used since. It's kinda upsetting because clearly that's one of the best ways to prevent wear and tear on the joysticks since there's no physical contact like with potentiometers, and it was at least _somewhat_ affordable.
Don't heat the solder, heat the pad/post you are soldering and "poke" it with the solder. You should also be using flux to help the solder flow/stick where it is suppose to
For soldering, put a little solder on your iron, and touch the metals with that solder. It makes heat transfer better thus making it accept solder more easly. Then add more solder to the solder joints.
A tip for those soldering the board onto the back, 'add' solder droplet onto each spot first to make it nice and chunky, so you cover all the position for it. Then put the board on top after the solder cools and hardens a little, and 'heat up each of the little holes rapidly one by one while using something to push the board down. If you do it correctly the melted solder will 'loosen' and fuse with the board while you are pushing it down... Be sure the solder doesn't leak out in between the board though.
I do have to say though, you should really consider a new soldering iron, the Hakko FX-951 is a lot better for small repairs because you can get extremely tiny tips with a lot better thermal conductivity
True but it might be better to go for one of the many JBC clones that are available now. Cheaper, better performance, and you can use genuine JBC cartridges (tips) with them. Tips last a really long time as they automatically go into standby mode when the handle is put in its holder. They automatically turn back on when you pick up the hand piece and heat up to soldering temperature before you have time to get the tip and solder to the joint, just a couple of seconds. But the honest truth is that for basic soldering like this, just get any other tip for your existing iron that isn't a microscopic needle-shaped conical tip. Go for a chisel or bevel and get a few sizes. Just use the biggest tip you can that will still allow you to get to the pads and pins you want to solder. The parts pads and pins that are to be soldered need to reach a temperature that the solder will melt, so a bigger surface area will transfer the heat more efficiently to the pad/pin and a larger tip has more heat capacity as those old school irons don't get the heat from the heater to the tip very efficiently compared with the newer style ones discussed above. The extra heat capacity of a bigger tip will make up for the lower efficiency of the heater/tip by enough to make the job easier.
I'm sure it works well if you have a dead spot in a particular place. Unfortunately my Elite II sticks in different places depending on which way I let go of the stick. If I hold up and let go it drifts down, if I hold down and let go it drifts up. Not always either. In any case this will only help if it always drifts the same way.
@minute Maid I had the same problem with the bumpers as well. It was actually quite easy to fix, just had to take the front off and pick any fluff/debris where the bumper presses the button. It goes bad again, but it's not too hard to get back in. Could also be a bad button though.
This is really cool. I will note and he may say this, but you will eventually get to a point where the modules need replaced because it will eventually become nonfunctional by creating a massive dead zone. It’s a bandage not a fit. Still really cool. Also the parts cost a little less than replacement sticks so not as great cost wise.
The drifting stick is actually common on PS Vita, and someone actually fix one IIRC, with bunch of paper. Yes, paper. Basically he added few papers to the back of the sticks so there's some pressure on the back. Another solution that I come across is people actually blast these sticks with contact cleaner. Not even open the damn console. The idea was there's dust trapped inside so you need to blow it out. One of the safe way to do it with contact cleaner that comes in a pressured can.
a month ago I repaired a stick drift from my old Xbox 360 controller. I simply replaced the potentiometer entirely, the piece costed me just 0,83 €. so it was much cheaper than this method and I didn't need to mess with a recalibration software. the downside is that I had to de-solder 17 points in order to remove the old potentiometer (14 from the potentiometer and another 3 from a different component that was in the way) so it took a lot more time than just soldering without having to desolder first, but it was a nice experience.
Thanks for the info, I’ve been cheaping out by buying a cheap lightning to usb on my ps3 controller and I experienced the problem with my right analog.
Love the vids but as you mentioned, your a little new to soldering. I just wanna say you did a pretty good job(as long as the joints dont touch) but just a good little pointer. You dont have to use as much solder as you were. Using less solder not only can keep from accidentally soldering multiple joints, it also just keeps your solder around for longer. Again love the videos and keep up the entertainment ❤️
My Meta Quest 2 controllers have terrible drift to the point where I’ve cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol 5 times, doesn’t do anything. I do not have any ifixit tools yet so ill watch this when i do
The stick drift was so bad on my ps4 controller it was unusable. I took apart the controller and open the little box thing on the joy stick with a small disc inside and blow in it and that fix the stick drift for the most part. There was still a little bit of drift but i could still play games with no issue
The cure would be some Hall effects sticks the steam deck has some third party ones you can easily install but I’m unaware if any exist for Xbox/PlayStation/Nintendo or if you can install any without heavy modding
@Muhammad Al-Barwani for the switch joycons? Makes sense it’s been having bad stick drift issues for years and those are pretty similar to the steam deck thumbsticks….I just wish they made some for PlayStation and Xbox….I’d love to have them on mine I’ve heard they more accurate with less or no dead zones that plus mechanical keyboard style switches on a console controller implemented in a comfortable and functional manner would be awesome….I’m a pc gamer but I’m platform agnostic and those switches after feeling them on a keyboard I just feel that they would feel amazing for a console controller it’s Much better and gives better feedback than the mushy membrane switches
And yes this is not a permanent solution but it'll probably double or triple the lifespan of each replacement module you buy to replace them. For about $3~6 per board, or cheaper if you buy em in bulk, you can reuse them as many times as you need, even if you desolder and installed new sticks on top. The boards you buy is meant for Dualshock 4 though, note that on the PS5 the red and black wires crosses under the board, on Dualshock 4 it's not under it. At the very least it'll extend the life of a gamepad until you get hall effect parts or save up for those parts. For the DIY enthusiasts, maybe you can install a 'adjustable' knob on the back of the case facing the screw hole, OR just simply and carefully use a soldering iron to 'melt' the hole precisely over those spots and use something to close it up when you are done adjusting.
For minor drift, this is the best solution. The drift will slowly get worse and eventually you’ll actually have to fix or replace the potentiometer. But for $6, it should buy you a lot of time and is still nice to have after if you manage to successfully repair or replace the component anyway.
L3 and R3 pressing while using L and R for moving and aiming is the culprits, i have tested this out one controller had L3 mapped as run and the other didn't...and the one L3 is mapped as run that was drifting after 4 months...the other one still works fine...
the problem with that fix is the potentiometer which gets worn out, dirty, etc. That board will change their readings, but with time it will keep getting worse and the stick will start to give wrong readings! and I guess when aiming it won't be precise anymore, because even if you reset the dead center, the potentiometer itself has been degraded with time and will go crazy as soon as you move the stick.
yea it happened to my brother sadly. when he got his camo xbox one controller, the strangest part about it was that stick drift already affected it when we got it. either it was damaged in shipping or the part malfunctioned.
No shit. Thats an easy fix. Didnt kniw these are a thing. I have a controller with stickdrift. Havent touched the thing for two years probably because back then you had to replace the whole potenciometer and after that calibrate the whole controller with a special tool. I was like its not worth it. But THIS! Nice vid. Thanks Bro!
As a member of the Comment Reading Association (CRA), I’m only here to read comments. Please keep the comments short and simple. We do appreciate your typing effort. Also please watch your spelling. Thank you and have a great day!
Bro got scammed. The range of motion on your sticks will be severely limited and you’ll still need to replace the pot once the carbon track has disintegrated.
I’ve got a stick drift on my Xbox one controller and there’s an issue with the back to the back cover when you click it on where the batteries are just not closing and yeah so my batteries also died so I don’t really keep it on just plug it in with a charger or something into my Xbox one but I also was stick drifting in Minecraft. I like onto Minecraft and sometimes my like my view camera like the one that you use it to move your camera around it stick drifting.
How well would this work on a c40 astro controller that you can remove the analog sticks or would it just be better to buy a whole new analog stick to the the bad one?😅
Yo I bought a ps5 controller from a pawn shop and had stick drift lol all you gotta do is pop the analog off then there’s to green place caps you pop off and clean the sensor. No need for all of that.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004122483308.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.37d21802JXA1Nb
Hi
Hi again
Hi again again
Hi
Hi again
The intro was the best 30 seconds of my life
Lol
It was intense😅
Your life must be daft lol
This comment deserves way more likes
@@XxaexxeaxX no
The adjustment board uses two trimmer potentiometers to make it look like the joystick is centered (basically an offset). It isn't a permanent solution, but it allows you to offset the axes once again if the stick starts to drift. Never knew these boards existed. It's a pretty smart and cheap solution to the problem before hall effect sensor joysticks become cheap and widespread.
isnt it easier to change the pottie alone instead of that?
@@ed9...5 what pottie? You mean the glue
The original ps3 sixaxis controller is cheap hall-effect controller, hall-effect sensor has been around for a long time (we're talking the 80's here with hall-effect keyboard), and they're cheap but not as common as potentiometer
@@meric12131415 pottie is a term for tri-legged potentiometer
@@meric12131415 he means the litter box
“We’ll hit this phone with an unscrew…”
My, how phones have changed! 🤣
3:30 💀💀💀🤣
ikr my guy went "now well hit this phone with a unscrew
I was gonna write a comment about it lol
@@robalox2355me to
i thought it said foam
let's all agree it's a good day when prg uploads a long video
YOUR A IMPOSTER
@@MrPropperYT hiw
How*
@@doodle9 YOUR STEWIE LOIS PETTER AT 3 AM!1!1!1!!!
@@MrPropperYT YE I KIL
The real fix is to use Hall Effect sensors instead of potentiometers. Unfortunately those don't exist (yet?) for Playstation controllers of any generation, but Gulikit makes some pretty awesome controllers that have them which are compatible with everything else.
Sega used hall effect sensors in the dreamcast controller…
@@jale05x They sure did and those sticks never drifted :)
@@hollow314 I own one and it works great as both a PC and Switch controller. DInput is pretty much obsolete anyway.
Gulikit is going to be selling Nintendo switch sticks that you can swap in on the original controllers!
@@taroven it should not be obsolete. xinput is horrible and it's just a way for microsoft to push their xbox controllers. i'm currently reading the hid and pid documentation so i can hopefully avoid this crap. also, completely ditching directinput is a horrible move since many old games and controllers rely on it.
I bought an inexpensive wired controller. Stick drift was always a problem. Not worrying about warranty, I opened it up and discovered the circuit board still had globs of solder flux around the pots and elsewhere. So I sprayed it with rubbing alcohol, scrubbed it with an old toothbrush, and reassembled it. Now it works perfectly.
Congrats on the 3 million man… Very well deserved! 🙌🏻
3:30 is the undeniable proof, that you fixed too many phones
Lol
The intro was to relatable i started to cry 😭💔
I play on mobile and pc no console so felt bad for those who have consoles 😢😭👃
I don't have any of these but I'm still watching this for the knowledge.
Telephone Renovation Whizz. I love this guy.
What's funny is hall effect sensor technology was used for the analog sticks AND the analog triggers all the way back on the Sega Dreamcast. That means that back then it was somewhat affordable, at least to the point that it was economical to have hall effect sensors in the final product. As far as I know, it hasn't been used since. It's kinda upsetting because clearly that's one of the best ways to prevent wear and tear on the joysticks since there's no physical contact like with potentiometers, and it was at least _somewhat_ affordable.
Don't heat the solder, heat the pad/post you are soldering and "poke" it with the solder.
You should also be using flux to help the solder flow/stick where it is suppose to
I bet he had issues when he closed the controller because of this 😂
Could u perhaps dumb it down for me cause I just bought everything I need for this and don’t want to do anything wrong and I don’t understand wym
For soldering, put a little solder on your iron, and touch the metals with that solder. It makes heat transfer better thus making it accept solder more easly. Then add more solder to the solder joints.
or better is to use some flux
Use some flux when soldering mate. Helps a heap. 👍😎
3:32 hit the phone with a unscrew 😂💀
More like 3:30 you need a couple seconds at least before the actual thing you wanna show.
@@GuardianTiger nobody gives a fuck
3:30 fixing a phone are we.. that reflex really kicking in there haha
A tip for those soldering the board onto the back, 'add' solder droplet onto each spot first to make it nice and chunky, so you cover all the position for it.
Then put the board on top after the solder cools and hardens a little, and 'heat up each of the little holes rapidly one by one while using something to push the board down. If you do it correctly the melted solder will 'loosen' and fuse with the board while you are pushing it down... Be sure the solder doesn't leak out in between the board though.
3:30 “ we are going to hit this PHONE with unscrew”😂😂 bro it’s controlla
There are better alternatives than such a circuit board, namely magnetic potentiometers, manufacturers like GuliKit do something like that
Man of 2022❤️
Do we add magsafe to this phone? 3:30 😆 The intro was hilarious.
We love your content bro ❤
I do have to say though, you should really consider a new soldering iron, the Hakko FX-951 is a lot better for small repairs because you can get extremely tiny tips with a lot better thermal conductivity
Thanks for the tip!
True but it might be better to go for one of the many JBC clones that are available now. Cheaper, better performance, and you can use genuine JBC cartridges (tips) with them. Tips last a really long time as they automatically go into standby mode when the handle is put in its holder. They automatically turn back on when you pick up the hand piece and heat up to soldering temperature before you have time to get the tip and solder to the joint, just a couple of seconds.
But the honest truth is that for basic soldering like this, just get any other tip for your existing iron that isn't a microscopic needle-shaped conical tip. Go for a chisel or bevel and get a few sizes. Just use the biggest tip you can that will still allow you to get to the pads and pins you want to solder. The parts pads and pins that are to be soldered need to reach a temperature that the solder will melt, so a bigger surface area will transfer the heat more efficiently to the pad/pin and a larger tip has more heat capacity as those old school irons don't get the heat from the heater to the tip very efficiently compared with the newer style ones discussed above. The extra heat capacity of a bigger tip will make up for the lower efficiency of the heater/tip by enough to make the job easier.
3:29 "now we will hit this phone witha unscrew"
Force of habit 😂
@@PhoneRepairGuru haha yes 😅
@@PhoneRepairGuru😂😂😂😂 hahahahaha
I'm sure it works well if you have a dead spot in a particular place. Unfortunately my Elite II sticks in different places depending on which way I let go of the stick. If I hold up and let go it drifts down, if I hold down and let go it drifts up. Not always either. In any case this will only help if it always drifts the same way.
@minute Maid I had the same problem with the bumpers as well. It was actually quite easy to fix, just had to take the front off and pick any fluff/debris where the bumper presses the button. It goes bad again, but it's not too hard to get back in. Could also be a bad button though.
This is really cool. I will note and he may say this, but you will eventually get to a point where the modules need replaced because it will eventually become nonfunctional by creating a massive dead zone. It’s a bandage not a fit. Still really cool. Also the parts cost a little less than replacement sticks so not as great cost wise.
I was expecting him to say “get that crunch” when he began to put it back together, but nope. 😆
The drifting stick is actually common on PS Vita, and someone actually fix one IIRC, with bunch of paper.
Yes, paper. Basically he added few papers to the back of the sticks so there's some pressure on the back.
Another solution that I come across is people actually blast these sticks with contact cleaner. Not even open the damn console. The idea was there's dust trapped inside so you need to blow it out. One of the safe way to do it with contact cleaner that comes in a pressured can.
a month ago I repaired a stick drift from my old Xbox 360 controller. I simply replaced the potentiometer entirely, the piece costed me just 0,83 €. so it was much cheaper than this method and I didn't need to mess with a recalibration software. the downside is that I had to de-solder 17 points in order to remove the old potentiometer (14 from the potentiometer and another 3 from a different component that was in the way) so it took a lot more time than just soldering without having to desolder first, but it was a nice experience.
"Hit this Phone with an unscrew" 😅😂
3:30 “Now we’ll hit this phone with an unscrew” got me chuckling 🤭
I really like your video bro😍
Love the vids
Thank god for this video man
Thanks for the info, I’ve been cheaping out by buying a cheap lightning to usb on my ps3 controller and I experienced the problem with my right analog.
How about circularity with this fix?
Placed order for this drift fix mod, hope is a long term solution
I had a switch joy con with stick drift. I just bought a new joystick and repaired it. Now it works perfectly again
Intro was so cool 👌👌👌
My favorite fix is still buying a new controller
broo wtf this is crazy i literally looked this up yesterday and you post this video today you looking at my search history?
This was sooo helpful
I have a ps4 controller with the stickdrift
@@atreyanarya5049 you tried it?
Not yet
Love the vids but as you mentioned, your a little new to soldering. I just wanna say you did a pretty good job(as long as the joints dont touch) but just a good little pointer. You dont have to use as much solder as you were. Using less solder not only can keep from accidentally soldering multiple joints, it also just keeps your solder around for longer. Again love the videos and keep up the entertainment ❤️
My Meta Quest 2 controllers have terrible drift to the point where I’ve cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol 5 times, doesn’t do anything. I do not have any ifixit tools yet so ill watch this when i do
3:30 He said ´´ We hit this Phone with a unscrew´´ but its a controller
I had a Xbox360 and used it a lot. I never had stick drift. Those controllers were awsome
Can you post more of these types of videos they are awesome
The stick drift was so bad on my ps4 controller it was unusable. I took apart the controller and open the little box thing on the joy stick with a small disc inside and blow in it and that fix the stick drift for the most part. There was still a little bit of drift but i could still play games with no issue
Thanks
The cure would be some Hall effects sticks the steam deck has some third party ones you can easily install but I’m unaware if any exist for Xbox/PlayStation/Nintendo or if you can install any without heavy modding
@Muhammad Al-Barwani for the switch joycons? Makes sense it’s been having bad stick drift issues for years and those are pretty similar to the steam deck thumbsticks….I just wish they made some for PlayStation and Xbox….I’d love to have them on mine I’ve heard they more accurate with less or no dead zones that plus mechanical keyboard style switches on a console controller implemented in a comfortable and functional manner would be awesome….I’m a pc gamer but I’m platform agnostic and those switches after feeling them on a keyboard I just feel that they would feel amazing for a console controller it’s Much better and gives better feedback than the mushy membrane switches
And yes this is not a permanent solution but it'll probably double or triple the lifespan of each replacement module you buy to replace them.
For about $3~6 per board, or cheaper if you buy em in bulk, you can reuse them as many times as you need, even if you desolder and installed new sticks on top.
The boards you buy is meant for Dualshock 4 though, note that on the PS5 the red and black wires crosses under the board, on Dualshock 4 it's not under it.
At the very least it'll extend the life of a gamepad until you get hall effect parts or save up for those parts.
For the DIY enthusiasts, maybe you can install a 'adjustable' knob on the back of the case facing the screw hole, OR just simply and carefully use a soldering iron to 'melt' the hole precisely over those spots and use something to close it up when you are done adjusting.
"Now we'll hit this PHONE with a unscrew"
you have saved all of controllerkind
For minor drift, this is the best solution.
The drift will slowly get worse and eventually you’ll actually have to fix or replace the potentiometer. But for $6, it should buy you a lot of time and is still nice to have after if you manage to successfully repair or replace the component anyway.
L3 and R3 pressing while using L and R for moving and aiming is the culprits, i have tested this out one controller had L3 mapped as run and the other didn't...and the one L3 is mapped as run that was drifting after 4 months...the other one still works fine...
the problem with that fix is the potentiometer which gets worn out, dirty, etc. That board will change their readings, but with time it will keep getting worse and the stick will start to give wrong readings! and I guess when aiming it won't be precise anymore, because even if you reset the dead center, the potentiometer itself has been degraded with time and will go crazy as soon as you move the stick.
yea it happened to my brother sadly. when he got his camo xbox one controller, the strangest part about it was that stick drift already affected it when we got it. either it was damaged in shipping or the part malfunctioned.
No shit. Thats an easy fix. Didnt kniw these are a thing. I have a controller with stickdrift. Havent touched the thing for two years probably because back then you had to replace the whole potenciometer and after that calibrate the whole controller with a special tool. I was like its not worth it. But THIS! Nice vid. Thanks Bro!
Phone repair guru love the bids and the shorts 3.30 u said let's unscrew this phone lol
Lol can't stop laugh !!! You said now we unscrew this phone with the screw driver bro it not a phone it's a controller but i love all your videos
One of my PS4 controllers has stick drift. It has a Final Fantasy XV sticker cover on it. I have stick drift on the left analog stick.
I got joycon drift on my switch and basically buyer the entire moving thing dor less than 8 dollars us and I completely fixed it easily on amazon
As a member of the Comment Reading Association (CRA), I’m only here to read comments. Please keep the comments short and simple. We do appreciate your typing effort. Also please watch your spelling. Thank you and have a great day!
That’s actually cool!
Nice video!
3:29 “hit this PHONE with an unscrew” 🤣
Ha ha ha. You said "Now lets hit this phone with a screw" at 3:30
hey dude, try repairing dslr cameras too! I really wanted to see!
Did you just say hit the phone with unscrew? 😂😂😂 when you’re used to opening phones.😅
The Thumbnail looks like a RC car
I did ibnew today it took about 5 minutes, luckily I didn't have to adjust just installing it base lined it
I've had my 360 controller for years and it's been great I'm gonna stick it up to poor QC
“Now we hit this phone with an unscrew” 👌
Now we have cheap Hall effect sticks that can cheaply replace these, you should do a video on that.
im buying it right now
Bro got scammed. The range of motion on your sticks will be severely limited and you’ll still need to replace the pot once the carbon track has disintegrated.
Hope one day i could meet you
Can you try it with a hall sensor, like in the Old controllers?
perfect timing ❤
Love ur vids
Omg thanks so much for the heart
saga figured out how to prevent stick drift around 20 years ago its so sad that companies have to cheep out so stick drift is still a thing
3:30
PRG: **holding a controller** “now we’ll hit this phone with a unscrew”
Me: ahh yes controller=phone
I’ve got a stick drift on my Xbox one controller and there’s an issue with the back to the back cover when you click it on where the batteries are just not closing and yeah so my batteries also died so I don’t really keep it on just plug it in with a charger or something into my Xbox one but I also was stick drifting in Minecraft. I like onto Minecraft and sometimes my like my view camera like the one that you use it to move your camera around it stick drifting.
Awesome fix
Hey I recommend DS4 Windows it’s a window that u can use to test on a Ps4 controller
How well would this work on a c40 astro controller that you can remove the analog sticks or would it just be better to buy a whole new analog stick to the the bad one?😅
They all need to start using hall effect sensors. Btw, why don’t you replace the potentiometer? It’s super easy.
Very cool 😎
I love you ❤ your videos
This could have save me a ton of money if I knew about this a long time ago
Yo I bought a ps5 controller from a pawn shop and had stick drift lol all you gotta do is pop the analog off then there’s to green place caps you pop off and clean the sensor. No need for all of that.
True game changer
The introduction 🥲
Since you have to solder anyway, wouldn't be better to change the potentiometer?
Much love♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
I am your number 1 fan
Ho Lee Chit . Good rebuilding.
Waiting for other TH-camrs copying this video
Anyways, great video and we had the same MSI gaming laptop btw
Where did you get that work pad and tool set?